Page 37 of 63 FirstFirst ... 27 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 47 ... LastLast
Results 901 to 925 of 1552
  1. #901
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    54
    If you ride an 18" pug, would you get the same in a Fatty?

  2. #902
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    1,322
    Considering her name is Fatty, she deserves a little pimpin' right?

    Just the beginning....
    On One Fat Bike Frame-imageuploadedbytapatalk1357517206.768249.jpg

  3. #903
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ljracer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    197

    Good job!

    Quote Originally Posted by bad andy View Post
    Considering her name is Fatty, she deserves a little pimpin' right?

    Just the beginning....
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	ImageUploadedByTapatalk1357517206.768249.jpg 
Views:	1151 
Size:	86.0 KB 
ID:	751120
    Orange chain ring bolts!

  4. #904
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    68
    Yup, I thought I did too, but a 90mm stem and a handlebar with a bit of rise, and it fits like a glove. I'd recommend going for it. Fat bikes seem to fit a bit different. You really don't need that long tt.

  5. #905
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    56
    Quote Originally Posted by Stevob View Post
    Avid brake rotors used to be 185 & 165mm. The rotor specs for the Fatty say 180F & 160R and interestingly the adapter specs say the same. Maybe Avid changed the size of their rotors to follow everyone else. That might explain the extra gap, especially if the adapters were for 185F & 165R (this should be printed on the inside of the adapter).

    Having said all that crap, as long as the pads remain parallel with the rotor, you can remove the adjustable washers between the adapter and the calliper (both above and below). Forks (steel in particular) are known for having alignment issues with the 74mm IS mounts and this is why manufacturers use the adjustable washers. I'm not suggesting for an instant the On-One fork is affected in this way.
    I'd seen this and similar posts on Ukfatbikes.co.uk. Seemed the US guys were most affected. The UK guys (mine included didn't have this problem).

    I wondered as they were being assembled by different teams, and Avid have swapped to using standard 180mm recently this could have slipped through the net.

    Here is my working setup, so people can double check how things should be set up. (Including a washer mod I needed to stop the adapter bolts fouling the rotors)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails On One Fat Bike Frame-p1062647.jpg  

    On One Fat Bike Frame-p1062648.jpg  

    On One Fat Bike Frame-p1062649.jpg  

    On One Fat Bike Frame-p1062650.jpg  


  6. #906
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    709
    Quote Originally Posted by exigetastic View Post
    I'd seen this and similar posts on Ukfatbikes.co.uk. Seemed the US guys were most affected. The UK guys (mine included didn't have this problem).

    I wondered as they were being assembled by different teams, and Avid have swapped to using standard 180mm recently this could have slipped through the net.

    Here is my working setup, so people can double check how things should be set up. (Including a washer mod I needed to stop the adapter bolts fouling the rotors)
    that's exactly what I went to so I could ride it on some trails for the first time yesterday, without destroying the pads. I took out all the spacers under the caliper, then added one thin washer on the front because it got a little too far to the inside there. Worked great. Not sure if the spherical alignment washers are necessary anyways. I will run it like that for now.

    Wow. this bike handles great on the trail. I haven't had a bike carve through stuff that well since my 1989 GT Avalanche,

  7. #907
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    246
    I noticed the brake issue on mine over the weekend. Sunday, I took a couple of photos. I emailed then to Brant from On-One along with a description of what I saw on my bike. He replied the same day with a few questions, and I responded with some more info, probably after he had gone to bed for the night. This evening, I got the following emailed to me (and presumably the other Fatty customers)

    Hello Fatty owner,
    It has been brought to our attention that while we were assembling your On-One Fatty's here in the US, an extra set of conical washers were installed on the Avid Elixir 1 brakes. I have included a photo of how your brakes were shipped, as well as a photo showing the correct positioning. This should be a very quick and easy fix and after making this change, you will find that your brake pads are fully contacting the rotor. Our apologies for this error. One other thing to note - we are shipping the chain guide to each and every one of you today so you will receive an automated email with a USPS tracking number shortly. Any questions, please let me know personally and if you have any pics of your Fatty being put to use - please send them on.
    Sincerely,
    Michael
    -----------
    Michael Golinski
    General Manager
    Planet X USA
    (Titus/On-One/Planet X)

    PLEASE NOTE OUR NEW PHONE NUMBERS;
    Titus - 503-477-6182
    Planet X/On-One - 503-894-8956
    I think that the conical washer issue and the missing chainguides only affects US built Fattys. Mistakes do happen, and On-One dealt with this one to my satisfaction. Good Job, guys!

    Others may have contacted On-One as well, so I'm not trying to take credit if someone else brought it to their attention before I did. I just want to make people aware that the issue was resolved pretty quickly once On-One was made aware of it.

    I would post the photos that On-One sent of the correct and incorrect ways to mount the caliper, but On-One sent them as pdf files and I can't upload those to my Photobucket. If you need them, respond to this thread and we'll figure out how to get them to you.

    Edit - The only brake issue that I had was that the brake pads were not using the inner 3-4 mm of the brake rotor. I didn't have the same problem as exigetastic describes above.

  8. #908
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    709
    I kinda figured it out on my own on Sunday. I just took out one, then both washers from under the caliper. I don't see a need for the washers on top either, if the caliper is resting directly on the bracket. A regular flat washer is all that is needed. I will get some shorter bolts or cut mine down, and get rid of all of the spherical washers. They allow you to adjust the angle of the caliper when mounted above and below. When just on top, they're useless.

  9. #909
    mtbr member
    Reputation: col200's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    268

    Photos

    Here are the two photos sent in the email.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails On One Fat Bike Frame-wrong-way.jpg  

    On One Fat Bike Frame-correct-way.jpg  


  10. #910
    TCG
    TCG is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    6
    I got mine out this weekend after emerging from the african bush myself. I do like it though found quite a flaw IMO rear disc is close to stay and chuffs them badly when removing the wheel(not helped by too much paint hampering the axle to fit in its spot). I wanted to upgrade to 203 disc this seems like impossible for the rear as the stays are so close.

  11. #911
    BikeBerk
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    10
    Mine has a 183 on it now if that is any help with no clearance issues.

  12. #912
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    246
    Today, I removed the conical washers to help the brake pads align better with the rotors. I removed both sets, as one set by itself doesn't do anything. I replaced the original long bolts with some shorter ones that I had in my parts bin left over from some other brakes.

    I was pretty concerned as I had some significant (easily visible) wear on several of the brake pads which meant that the unused part of the pad was thicker than the worn part of the pad. I thought that this would hit the brake rotor first, and maybe be the only part that hit the rotor until wear evened out. I only had time for a little test ride, but the brakes seem to work just fine. The uneven pads are still in the back of my mind, though...

    I also looked at the bolts that mount the adapter to the fork. Mine don't foul like exigetastic's (above) but the end of the bolt protrudes from the fork's mount and is rrreeeeeeaaaaallll close to the rotor. I'll put a washer or two under the bolt heads like exigetastic recommends as soon as I can get to the hardware store.

    I also found out that the Elixr 1s have a reach adjust screw between the lever and the bar. It takes a hex key, and I may tweak the reach a little on mine.

  13. #913
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    1,322
    Quote Originally Posted by JoeG View Post

    I was pretty concerned as I had some significant (easily visible) wear on several of the brake pads which meant that the unused part of the pad was thicker than the worn part of the pad. I thought that this would hit the brake rotor first, and maybe be the only part that hit the rotor until wear evened out. I only had time for a little test ride, but the brakes seem to work just fine. The uneven pads are still in the back of my mind, though...
    I wouldn't worry about the uneven pad wear at this point. As you ride more it will wear down and everything will even out.

  14. #914
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    56
    Quote Originally Posted by JoeG View Post
    I also looked at the bolts that mount the adapter to the fork. Mine don't foul like exigetastic's (above) but the end of the bolt protrudes from the fork's mount and is rrreeeeeeaaaaallll close to the rotor. I'll put a washer or two under the bolt heads like exigetastic recommends as soon as I can get to the hardware store.
    Yep when mine was brand new it JUST cleared. However I had to tighten the cones after a few short rides, and that moved the rotor just enough to foul the bolts.

    After my last ride I noticed my front cones are lose again which might be why I'm getting such horrendous pad wear (<30 miles per set).

    I've ordered some XTs anyway (matches my other bikes so I can have consistent spares). So some time in the shed scheduled this week and I'll properly investigate the cone issue.

  15. #915
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    246
    I stopped by the hardware store this evening and bought some stainless steel washers. I put one under each of the bolts that attaches the brake adapter to the fork. Now the bots don't stick out beyond the brake mount anymore.

    Anyone that has a Fatty with the original bolt configuration needs to go and spend 36 cents or so at the hardware store in order to avoid a potential problem with the bolts fouling the rotor.

  16. #916
    Blanco
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    1,315

    New question here. Front derailleur?

    Perhaps a dumb question, but: How the heck do I get a front derailleur on this thing? The one I have in my parts box doesn't have nearly enough swing to make it out to the chainrings. (I've got a Hussefelt 22-32-bash on there)

    Do I need an E-type FD?
    Can I bolt a high direct-mount FD onto the plate for the chainguide that On-One sent out?

    On the good side, the chain does clear the tire, even in small-small (though it's close...only a few mm of clearance)

  17. #917
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    42
    Quote Originally Posted by El Caballo View Post
    Perhaps a dumb question, but: How the heck do I get a front derailleur on this thing? The one I have in my parts box doesn't have nearly enough swing to make it out to the chainrings. (I've got a Hussefelt 22-32-bash on there)

    Do I need an E-type FD?
    Can I bolt a high direct-mount FD onto the plate for the chainguide that On-One sent out?

    On the good side, the chain does clear the tire, even in small-small (though it's close...only a few mm of clearance)
    i wanted to ask the same question. on ed oxley's flickr it looks like a stock slx-derailleur.

  18. #918
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    1
    What real width tires on this rim?

  19. #919
    mtbr member
    Reputation: brant's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,836
    Quote Originally Posted by flobukki View Post
    i wanted to ask the same question. on ed oxley's flickr it looks like a stock slx-derailleur.
    It's a stock model, but has been modified with a file and longer bolts apparently.

  20. #920
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    709
    Quote Originally Posted by exigetastic View Post
    Yep when mine was brand new it JUST cleared. However I had to tighten the cones after a few short rides, and that moved the rotor just enough to foul the bolts.

    After my last ride I noticed my front cones are lose again which might be why I'm getting such horrendous pad wear (<30 miles per set).

    I've ordered some XTs anyway (matches my other bikes so I can have consistent spares). So some time in the shed scheduled this week and I'll properly investigate the cone issue.
    When you say you have had to tighten the cones, do you mean the front hub has been getting slack at the bearings?
    Are your pads dragging alot?

  21. #921
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    42
    sounds doable

  22. #922
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    68

    Shifting

    Both Problem Solvers and 9.0.7 sell a bracket that bolts to the frame and the direct mount derailleur bolts to that. All the Mukluks have it. However, I am currently trying to make mine work. It does not-problem solvers version. The Sram x7 front 10 speed 2x10 direct mount derailleur they come with will not shift properly with it. It appears that it does not move the body of the derailleur out far enough. When you shift, the swinging arm comes in contact with the bracket holding the cable housing. If you put the cable through one of the guides on the rocker, then the cable gets in the way of the housing. Either way, at present, I see no way of making a clean shift-that's with the ethirteen 22/36 crank. Meanwhile, in the rear of the bike, there seems to be issues as well. Still looking into those, but that;s for a different thread. It doesn't shift nearly as well as the ON ONE FATTY. Good job ON ONE!!!!

  23. #923
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    39
    Quote Originally Posted by brant View Post
    It's a stock model, but has been modified with a file and longer bolts apparently.
    I did it with a XT front derailleur, on a Hussefelt 22-32, and I only changed one limit screw for a longer. Very easy.
    French. In France .Near Paris. Yes, really.

  24. #924
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    246
    builder - there are 3 different PS direct mount adapters; 68-73 mm BB, 100 mm BB, and Moonlander. Are you sure that you have the right one?

    Problem Solvers

    Edit - the PS page above says it works with Shimano FDs. It doesn't say anything about SRAM.

  25. #925
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    68
    That's what I'm not sure of. It came spec'd on the Muk2. It does not stand off far enough according to SRAM technical data. 40 as opposed to 43mm. I can't find the dimensions of the different ones from Problem Solvers. It also seems I have the standard cage front direct mound instead of the compact cage unit. Salsa is really slipping. This has been a cluster____ since day one, and yes it's all stock. I really like the e-thirteen crankset, but it doesn't seem to shift all that well, and the issues with the front derailleur just make it worse. Then they threw on a really inexpensive KMC chain. I run all KMC high end chains on all my bikes, but this one just seems to add to the mess. Parts are not parts, even back in the day......

Page 37 of 63 FirstFirst ... 27 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 47 ... LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Broken frame on Mongoose, new frame? or new bike?
    By Dooms101 in forum Beginner's Corner
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 03-12-2011, 07:45 PM
  2. Replies: 1
    Last Post: 05-23-2010, 09:39 AM
  3. Replies: 4
    Last Post: 02-18-2009, 09:06 PM
  4. whats the difference between a road bike frame and an xc frame?
    By tomsmoto in forum Bike and Frame discussion
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 10-05-2008, 06:51 PM
  5. Broken 9357 frame in bike/frame discussion
    By grnxb in forum The ReCycle Bin
    Replies: 52
    Last Post: 02-19-2008, 01:03 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •