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  1. #1651
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    On-One Fatty frames are symmetrical hence the wheel will be standard build too not some funky offset dish.


    Fat Biker

  2. #1652
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    Quote Originally Posted by qclabrat View Post
    thanks all for the quick replies, but I do have a question on the rear hub configuration. I wasn't aware it is dished like a Surly. does it mean that all Surly's have that odd dishing like the 135mm Pug rear wheel? I'll need to read up on what that means, if that's the case, either I'll need the wheel rebuilt or go with another frame choice
    No, the rear is a 170 symmetrical with QR. The front is symmetrical 135. The difference is how the disc is spaced relative to the fork blade. On a rear spaced 135 hub, the disc is 5mm further inboard on the hub, closer to the spokes (just like on a standard rear wheel). Some front hubs have this same spacing. Surly did this so you could swap front and rear wheels in an emergency. A front spaced 135 hub has the disc further outboard, toward the fork leg. This is because there is no gear cluster to offset, so the flanges can be equidistant allowing for a stronger symmetrical wheel. So if you have a front spaced hub and try to mount it onto rear spaced forks (like Surly or On-One), the brake caliper won't be centered over the rotor, and in some case will hit the spokes. Hub, Fork, and Disc Brake Compatibility | Spews | The Information Hole | Surly Bikes

    Where are the wheels coming from? That will determine whether or not they will be a direct fit. Any symmetrical 170 rear will work. Up front it needs to be a symmetrical 135 with rear disc spacing if you are using either On-One fork. If your current wheels have a front spaced 135, you will need to look for a different fork, like the Carver O'beast.
    On heavy rotation: Stooge 27.5+ SS, On-One Fatty, On-One 456 EVO, Surly Cross-Check, Scott CR1 (SS road)

  3. #1653
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    Quote Originally Posted by qclabrat View Post
    thanks all for the quick replies, but I do have a question on the rear hub configuration. I wasn't aware it is dished like a Surly. does it mean that all Surly's have that odd dishing like the 135mm Pug rear wheel? I'll need to read up on what that means, if that's the case, either I'll need the wheel rebuilt or go with another frame choice
    A picture's worth a 1000 words, so maybe this is a better illustration of the disc spacing issue. There are spacers for rear spaced hubs that move the disc closer to the fork, but it doesn't work the other way. I had to modify the caliper adapter to move it to the right 5mm so my rotor would line up on the On-One fork (I had front spaced hubs). On One Fat Bike Frame-front-vs-rear.png
    On heavy rotation: Stooge 27.5+ SS, On-One Fatty, On-One 456 EVO, Surly Cross-Check, Scott CR1 (SS road)

  4. #1654
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    Quote Originally Posted by qclabrat View Post
    ...

    Also should I go longer than 720mm for the bars? I am 5'9".
    Looks like you're getting good advice on the front fork brake rotor spacing issue.

    I don't know exactly what width of bars you should use, but I would recommend going wider than what you are used to. I have wider bars on my fat bike than my normal mountain bike and I think that works pretty well for me. I haven't felt a big need to go wider on my normal bike and I wouldn't want to go any narrower on my fat bike. If you are totally sure that you like the width on your normal mountain bike I would go 40mm wider. If you haven't explored really wide bars then I would go 80mm wider and ride it like that for a while and then cut them down if you want to. If you have lock-on grips then you can move them in and try them before you cut your handlebars.

  5. #1655
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    more good stuff from everyone, the rear will be 170mm symmetrical
    the parts are coming from a Moto Boris Bluto, so the front wheel is 150mm thru axle
    Save up to 60% off new Rockshox Bluto Fork Fat Bikes and Mountain Bikes - MTB - Motobecane Boris X9 SRAM

    looks like I'll need a 150 thru axle fork, is the Fatty headtube tapered? i think 150 forks are easier to find tapered

  6. #1656
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    Quote Originally Posted by qclabrat View Post
    more good stuff from everyone, the rear will be 170mm symmetrical
    the parts are coming from a Moto Boris Bluto, so the front wheel is 150mm thru axle
    Save up to 60% off new Rockshox Bluto Fork Fat Bikes and Mountain Bikes - MTB - Motobecane Boris X9 SRAM

    looks like I'll need a 150 thru axle fork, is the Fatty headtube tapered? i think 150 forks are easier to find tapered
    Yup Fatties are tapered headtube.
    Fork ? Best / cheapest (depending on your viewpoint) to keep within budget would be Chinese carbon .
    Most vendors have a 150mm spaced tapered carbon fork in their catalogue these days. If not just fire an email off to the vendor of your choice and they'll usually be able to supply one. Some people have a preference as to which vendor they prefer. I find it all a much of a muchness. They all seem to pee in the same pot as it were and non is particularly better than the other as regards to quality/delivery times IME.

    Just remember most Chinese forks are 46mm(ish) trail offset as opposed to the On-One forks being 51mm offset. Which will affect the steering response slightly. But TBH I doubt you would notice a difference unless you jumped off one and straight in the other. Even so I thought it worth mentioning just for completeness.



    Fat Biker


    P.S. Don't forget you'll need a different headset than the one that's on the Boris. Boris appears to be I.S. and the Fatty is E.C. You can't go wrong with the Smoothy Mixer one from On-One to be fair. Not the lightest by far but lasts well enough IME.

  7. #1657
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    Quote Originally Posted by qclabrat View Post
    more good stuff from everyone, the rear will be 170mm symmetrical
    the parts are coming from a Moto Boris Bluto, so the front wheel is 150mm thru axle
    Save up to 60% off new Rockshox Bluto Fork Fat Bikes and Mountain Bikes - MTB - Motobecane Boris X9 SRAM

    looks like I'll need a 150 thru axle fork, is the Fatty headtube tapered? i think 150 forks are easier to find tapered
    Framed Bikes has a 150x15 carbon fork, tapered head tube. Available in white to match the Fatty. Better quality than the no-name China carbon.

    On Sale Alaskan Carbon Fat Bike Fork
    On heavy rotation: Stooge 27.5+ SS, On-One Fatty, On-One 456 EVO, Surly Cross-Check, Scott CR1 (SS road)

  8. #1658
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    Or you might like to do some research and find out where the "named" carbon forks come from and save yourself a bunch o' cash

    $299 on sale vs $130 - $150 retail for a very similar product hmmmn. I know where my cash would be spent.

    Option 1

    Option 2

    Fat Biker

  9. #1659
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fat Biker View Post
    Or you might like to do some research and find out where the "named" carbon forks come from and save yourself a bunch o' cash

    $299 on sale vs $130 - $150 retail for a very similar product hmmmn. I know where my cash would be spent.

    Option 1

    Option 2

    Fat Biker
    I know a lot of branded items come out of the same factories, I just feel more comfortable dealing with known quantity. I find it easier to deal with a company here in the US if there is any kind of warranty issue. Also, with so many low priced options that look similar, it's hard to know which are high quality vs. cheap knockoffs. One would hope that a company putting their name on a product would vet said product before deciding on a vendor. There is also real world testing, as you can find reviews from customers. I've seen some very high quality carbon come from these ebay and alibbaba companies, but also some horror stories. I'll pay a little more for peace of mind, especially regarding carbon forks or handlebars which can be catastrophic if they fail. Believe me, I'm a cheapskate, but sometimes you can go too cheap. Then you end up buying stuff twice, which isn't really saving you any money. Like Fat Biker said, make sure you do as much research as you can before going with the no-names.
    On heavy rotation: Stooge 27.5+ SS, On-One Fatty, On-One 456 EVO, Surly Cross-Check, Scott CR1 (SS road)

  10. #1660
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    more questions, which isn't always to the easiest to find, though would have expected to find it easily, upfront apologies from a novice

    what's the widest (patch contact) tire I can get using an 80mm rim for the rear. Can't always go by tire size, as it's not reliable. for example will Vee Showshoe XL squeeze in the back, guessing no, especially if running at low pressures

  11. #1661
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    got the answer after rereading this thread a few times, looks like Dozer in back and Snowshoe XL front should work, will start with Floaters this winter for now, don't want to get spoiled too quick, and switch back to the V8's 120tpi in the summer, still haven't pulled the trigger yet on the Fatty V2, but any day now, nothing going on CyberMonday on PlanetX so there's no rush at this point except impatience. Have all other parts ready except the frame and fork.

  12. #1662
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    @qclabrat

    Be aware that the US based PlanetX location was recently destroyed in a fire. I don't know how this impacts website orders, but Vince (who posts here frequently) from PlanetX will definitely have his hands full in the next few weeks/months.

    Oakridge fire destroys headquarters of bike company with Portland roots - BikePortland.org

  13. #1663
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    Quote Originally Posted by rollo View Post
    @qclabrat

    Be aware that the US based PlanetX location was recently destroyed in a fire. I don't know how this impacts website orders, but Vince (who posts here frequently) from PlanetX will definitely have his hands full in the next few weeks/months.

    Oakridge fire destroys headquarters of bike company with Portland roots - BikePortland.org
    I ordered some handlebars and brake pads last week, they were here by Friday afternoon. Everything is shipping out of England, so freight was around $20. BTW, took the first ride with the Fleegle bars, like them so far. 720mm width, 15 degree sweep, 0 rise. Downside is that they only have 25.4 diameter. Upside, I have plenty of old stems and the bar was $7.

    On One Fat Bike Frame-12294711_10207196311333474_5665976584991029710_n.jpgOn One Fat Bike Frame-12301601_10207196311213471_3073911954944785837_n.jpg
    On heavy rotation: Stooge 27.5+ SS, On-One Fatty, On-One 456 EVO, Surly Cross-Check, Scott CR1 (SS road)

  14. #1664
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    Quote Originally Posted by rollo View Post
    @qclabrat

    Be aware that the US based PlanetX location was recently destroyed in a fire. I don't know how this impacts website orders, but Vince (who posts here frequently) from PlanetX will definitely have his hands full in the next few weeks/months.

    Oakridge fire destroys headquarters of bike company with Portland roots - BikePortland.org
    yep, what @mtbLoco29 said, they changed to UK only warehouse a while back, not sure why, but shipping charges are pretty high due to air freight

  15. #1665
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBLoCo29 View Post
    I ordered some handlebars and brake pads last week, they were here by Friday afternoon. Everything is shipping out of England, so freight was around $20. BTW, took the first ride with the Fleegle bars, like them so far. 720mm width, 15 degree sweep, 0 rise. Downside is that they only have 25.4 diameter. Upside, I have plenty of old stems and the bar was $7.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    nice looking ride, is that the V2 version? anyone know if the seat post diameter is 31.8mm and seat tube collar 34.9mm?

    Also not crazy with the carbon fork with straight steerer. I don't understand why On-One would use a straight steerer even though the Fatty has a tapered headtube. Any able to rationalize that one? I'm think of getting a Specialized Fatboy carbon fork locally for the same price as the On-One fork but is instead tapered

  16. #1666
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    Quote Originally Posted by qclabrat View Post
    Also not crazy with the carbon fork with straight steerer. I don't understand why On-One would use a straight steerer even though the Fatty has a tapered headtube. Any able to rationalize that one?
    I was told by Brant personally (designer at On-One at the time) it was for compatibility sake. So you could use the fork in other frames than the Fatty. That's great but the crown of the fork is kinda fat so the chances of it looking good on other frames are slim at best. And the ones that it would look good on probably have a tapered headtube for tapered forks anyway. Seemed like marketing waffle at the time. Guess what ? It still does.

    I too would prefer a tapered steerer tube on the fork too.

    If nothing else, just for peace of mind.

    1 1/8 straight is probably plenty strong enough.



    Fat Biker

  17. #1667
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    Quote Originally Posted by qclabrat View Post
    nice looking ride, is that the V2 version? anyone know if the seat post diameter is 31.8mm and seat tube collar 34.9mm?

    Also not crazy with the carbon fork with straight steerer. I don't understand why On-One would use a straight steerer even though the Fatty has a tapered headtube. Any able to rationalize that one? I'm think of getting a Specialized Fatboy carbon fork locally for the same price as the On-One fork but is instead tapered
    Seat post is 31.6, I used a salsa 35mm flip lock, and 31.6mm Thomson Elite 410mm

  18. #1668
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fat Biker View Post


    P.S. Don't forget you'll need a different headset than the one that's on the Boris. Boris appears to be I.S. and the Fatty is E.C. You can't go wrong with the Smoothy Mixer one from On-One to be fair. Not the lightest by far but lasts well enough IME.
    interestingly On-One suggested getting the Orbit C-40 ACB which is an integrated headset, even stranger, I was not able find the same one with 9mm stack from other websites or the FSA website

    Which headset do you have installed? were there changes to the headtube of V2 of the frame?

  19. #1669
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    Quote Originally Posted by qclabrat View Post
    interestingly On-One suggested getting the Orbit C-40 ACB which is an integrated headset, even stranger, I was not able find the same one with 9mm stack from other websites or the FSA website

    Which headset do you have installed? were there changes to the headtube of V2 of the frame?
    I have the Smoothy Mixer heaset from On-One on a V1 frame. They're heavy (as much as a headset can be/for what it is) but durable. Never had to use anything else.
    I don't think there's been any changes to the headtube but I could be wrong.
    HTH ?


    Fat Biker

  20. #1670
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    I'm running a Cane Creek 44ZS/49EC and it works great with my Lefty.

  21. #1671
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    i have a decision I not able to easily figure out, can you weigh in on the two options?

    1) buy a new budget 150mm carbon fork for the front wheel I already have with 15mm thru axle

    2) buy a used 2014 Specialized Fatboy carbon fork which is 135mm, comes with the matching hub as the owner upgrades to a Bluto. However this will require me to rebuild the wheel.

    btw, my wheels are the cheapo Weinmann builds off of a Boris and rims are 80mm

  22. #1672
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    Quote Originally Posted by qclabrat View Post
    i have a decision I not able to easily figure out, can you weigh in on the two options?

    1) buy a new budget 150mm carbon fork for the front wheel I already have with 15mm thru axle

    2) buy a used 2014 Specialized Fatboy carbon fork which is 135mm, comes with the matching hub as the owner upgrades to a Bluto. However this will require me to rebuild the wheel.

    btw, my wheels are the cheapo Weinmann builds off of a Boris and rims are 80mm
    For me it would be a no-brainer.

    Cheap fork that fits what you already have. That way you're saving on the build of a wheel at least if not spokes too . Plus that money could go towards an RCT3 cartridge if your Bluto doesn't already have one. Or some bling carbon hoops.

    The possibilities are endless.


    Fat Biker

  23. #1673
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    just ordered the Fatty v2 and should be delivered next week, time to ship off some bikes so the spouse doesn't get pissed with another bike

    have everything except a fork, still undecided, front wheel is 150mm TA so limited with choices. Is there a difference between a 483 vs 468 axle to crown fork, I know it's 15mm, but what should I except the ride to feel like? I plan to use a 50mm stem and 740mm bars

  24. #1674
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    [QUOTE=qclabrat;12356609]just ordered the Fatty v2 and should be delivered next week, time to ship off some bikes so the spouse doesn't get pissed with another bike

    have everything except a fork, still undecided, front wheel is 150mm TA so limited with choices. Is there a difference between a 483 vs 468 axle to crown fork, I know it's 15mm, but what should I except the ride to feel like? I plan to use a 50mm stem and 740mm bars[/QUOTE

    The shorter fork will have a steeper head angle for quicker steering. Longer will give a slacker HA for more stability at speed. The Fatty was designed to be run a slack HA with short stem/wide bars. Carver and Framed make relatively inexpensive 150 TA forks. There's also a host of Chinese carbon forks out there for even less. I would go with a fork vs a new wheel/hub.

  25. #1675
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    Just an FYI for anyone wanting to try an Absolute Black Oval C/R on their fatty, the bottom bracket on the drive side will need to be spaced out one extra spacer to clear the chainstay (This is with the 32 tooth C/R).

    I'm running a Race Face crankset and external BB.

  26. #1676
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    just running down some bigger tire options for the rear, here's what I believe has been tested. Caveat, most don't mention rim width or 1x or 2x drivetrain

    Yes:
    Snowshoe (small one)
    Bulldozer
    BFL
    Dillinger 4/5 (even a studded 5)
    ChaoYang 4.9 (Big Daddy)
    Lou/Bud (1x only)

    wait to hear:
    Snowshoe XL
    Jumbo Jim

    No way:
    Snowshoe 2XL
    Last edited by qclabrat; 12-22-2015 at 01:12 PM. Reason: error in lou/bud

  27. #1677
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    Bud & Lou fit. No issue up front. Rear is tight, slight chain rub when running 1x. No way on a 2x. I run a D5 currently on a rolling Darryl, plenty of room. The 45nrth studs would be fine, Kold Cutters no way.

  28. #1678
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mamba29er View Post
    Bud & Lou fit. No issue up front. Rear is tight, slight chain rub when running 1x. No way on a 2x. I run a D5 currently on a rolling Darryl, plenty of room. The 45nrth studs would be fine, Kold Cutters no way.
    Do you have pictures of this and the clearance?

  29. #1679
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mamba29er View Post
    Bud & Lou fit. No issue up front. Rear is tight, slight chain rub when running 1x. No way on a 2x. I run a D5 currently on a rolling Darryl, plenty of room. The 45nrth studs would be fine, Kold Cutters no way.
    good to know I'll update,
    I have a 150mm 9zero7 fork and plans are to eventually go to a Vee 2xl in front and XL in the rear, though no one seems to have confirmed they fit

    do you have a v1 or v2 frame? wondering if the beefer downtube changed anything in the rear

  30. #1680
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    Sorry I don't have pics of the Bud/Lou combo, that was my neighbors set up. I run the D 5's which I do have pics of, not that that helps.

    On One Fat Bike Frame-image.jpg
    On One Fat Bike Frame-image.jpg

  31. #1681
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mamba29er View Post
    Sorry I don't have pics of the Bud/Lou combo, that was my neighbors set up. I run the D 5's which I do have pics of, not that that helps.

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    that seems kind of tight, don't you get rub at low pressures and some peanut butter mud or snow would surely get the rear mucked up

  32. #1682
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    Nope not at all. Plenty of clearance, zero rub at any PSI.

  33. #1683
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    1. On One Fat Bike Frame - From April 2013 to October 2014
    On One Fat Bike Frame-dsc03922-001.jpg

    On One Fat Bike Frame-dsc03926-001.jpg

    Warranty and Replacement

    2 On One Fat Bike Frame - Since February 2015 for December 2015
    On One Fat Bike Frame-imag0309.jpg

    On One Fat Bike Frame-imag0312.jpg

    Now I have two cracked frame
    On One Fat Bike Frame-imag0314.jpg

    Waiting for an answer Warranty and Replacement.
    Sorry for my English.

  34. #1684
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    Wow, are those V1 or V2 frames? I don't think I have seen a V2 frame crack.

  35. #1685
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAUL77 View Post
    1. On One Fat Bike Frame - From April 2013 to October 2014
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Warranty and Replacement

    2 On One Fat Bike Frame - Since February 2015 for December 2015
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Now I have two cracked frame
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    Waiting for an answer Warranty and Replacement.
    Sorry for my English.
    can you tell us how far the seatpost when in for each? I've mostly seen cracks under the support

  36. #1686
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    Also curious if the second frame is V1 or V2. Also, Med or Large?
    On heavy rotation: Stooge 27.5+ SS, On-One Fatty, On-One 456 EVO, Surly Cross-Check, Scott CR1 (SS road)

  37. #1687
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    Based upon the dates given the first frame has to be a V1 frame. But the second frame could be either. I sincerely hope it isn't a V2. Oh man....

  38. #1688
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    Wow, that is a nasty crack......too bad, honestly, I have seen only a handful of cracked frames in person bu 2 of them were On Ones......really blows, they seem like they can be cool rigs.....Hopefully they stand behind the frame
    2016 Pivot Mach 429er Pro 1X
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  39. #1689
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    Whatever happened to that rad steel truss frame fatbike that was posted on ON-ONE's social media pages? If I remember correctly it was orange, and looked beyond awesome. I like the Fatty, but prefer steel.

    EDIT: Found it. This bad mofo:

    I'd buy that in a second.

  40. #1690
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    That does look pretty cool........slap a bluto on there and I'd like it as well.......until it cracked.....lol

    Like that orange frame though, the shape......would look great in white or deep blue.......
    2016 Pivot Mach 429er Pro 1X
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  41. #1691
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    Well, that image is over a year old, so I wonder what happened.

  42. #1692
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    Both frames that are cracked are V1.
    KARMA will get YOU & YOU know who you are.

  43. #1693
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    I cracked a frame (not an on-one) like that due to running too much exposed seatpost. While it was within the minimum insertion, that only keeps the post from not failing, in the end I was simply riding a bike that was too small.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  44. #1694
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    Quote Originally Posted by blowery View Post
    Wow, are those V1 or V2 frames? I don't think I have seen a V2 frame crack.
    V1
    Quote Originally Posted by qclabrat View Post
    can you tell us how far the seatpost when in for each? I've mostly seen cracks under the support
    160 mm (6,3 inch)
    Quote Originally Posted by MTBLoCo29 View Post
    Also curious if the second frame is V1 or V2. Also, Med or Large?
    V1, both frame 20 inch

  45. #1695
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    Quote Originally Posted by qclabrat View Post
    can you tell us how far the seatpost when in for each? I've mostly seen cracks under the support
    Notice 2 different locations for the cracks on each frame!! Im suss on the seatpost depth too.

    V2 has no such issues. Ive had mine for 12months now.
    KARMA will get YOU & YOU know who you are.

  46. #1696
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAUL77 View Post
    V1

    160 mm (6,3 inch)

    V1, both frame 20 inch

    I wonder if a dropper would help as your culo would be up off the saddle while rolling through the chunder? Seems like it wouldn't have cracked that high up with 6.3" of post inserted. You sure it didn't crack right at the bottom of your post?
    “Life may not be about your bike, but it sure can help you get through it.” ~ Hallman

  47. #1697
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    Quote Originally Posted by ultraspontane View Post
    Whatever happened to that rad steel truss frame fatbike that was posted on ON-ONE's social media pages? If I remember correctly it was orange, and looked beyond awesome. I like the Fatty, but prefer steel.

    EDIT: Found it. This bad mofo:

    I'd buy that in a second.
    I was really hoping to see this bad boy too, I'm steel guy. It would look great next to my 456 Evo. Had an Al 29er, sold it after 5 rides to get a steel.. Only other Al MTBs I've had were full sus.
    On heavy rotation: Stooge 27.5+ SS, On-One Fatty, On-One 456 EVO, Surly Cross-Check, Scott CR1 (SS road)

  48. #1698
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    Quote Originally Posted by pharcyde View Post
    Notice 2 different locations for the cracks on each frame!! Im suss on the seatpost depth too.

    V2 has no such issues. Ive had mine for 12months now.
    One of the main reasons for the V2 being in existence was to beef up the seat tube to remedy the cracking issue in the locations Raul77 has shown. I believe it was a combination of poor seat tube internal diameter tolerance and a weakening of the alloy due to the welding process .
    Hence I am lead to believe that the V2 has a thicker seat tube wall to alleviate these symptoms. There may also be entirely different reasons I am not aware of though.


    Fat Biker

  49. #1699
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    nothing to see here folks, V2 is good
    disperse and carry on

  50. #1700
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    Glad to hear it
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails On One Fat Bike Frame-image.jpg  

    “Life may not be about your bike, but it sure can help you get through it.” ~ Hallman

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