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  1. #1601
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    Anyone running one of these as a 29"/700c commuter bike during summer months? Would be interested to know weight if using the On-One Fat Not Fat wheelset...and also stock weight for the stock Fatty and Pink Fatty if anyone can tell me? cheers

  2. #1602
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    Quote Originally Posted by cr3anmachin3 View Post
    Anyone running one of these as a 29"/700c commuter bike during summer months? Would be interested to know weight if using the On-One Fat Not Fat wheelset...and also stock weight for the stock Fatty and Pink Fatty if anyone can tell me? cheers
    I haven't run commuter tires, but I have a 29+ wheelset that drops about 2lbs. Mine was a frame-up build, but nothing weight weenie: On-One seatpost and carbon fork, Hussefelt stem with Shimano PRO risers, Selle Italia Flite ti saddle, Ergon grips, SLX shifter/derailleur/cassette, Race Face Turbines with 30t, Avid BB7s. With the Mulefut/Nate combo, about 30lbs. With 36 hole Velocity Blunt 35s and Gravity Vidars (with tubes) it's about 28lbs

    On One Fat Bike Frame-cropped-fatty.jpg
    On heavy rotation: Stooge 27.5+ SS, On-One Fatty, On-One 456 EVO, Surly Cross-Check, Scott CR1 (SS road)

  3. #1603
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBLoCo29 View Post
    I haven't run commuter tires, but I have a 29+ wheelset that drops about 2lbs. Mine was a frame-up build, but nothing weight weenie: On-One seatpost and carbon fork, Hussefelt stem with Shimano PRO risers, Selle Italia Flite ti saddle, Ergon grips, SLX shifter/derailleur/cassette, Race Face Turbines with 30t, Avid BB7s. With the Mulefut/Nate combo, about 30lbs. With 36 hole Velocity Blunt 35s and Gravity Vidars (with tubes) it's about 28lbs

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks. I'm new to all the terminology but guessing Mulefut/Nate combo is tyres/rims? That sounds pretty decent. I run a 06' Hardrock converted for road with SLX/Deore kit and it comes in around 12.7kg (28lbs). I'm trying to find out what the stock On-One Fatty comes in at...especially the cheaper £799 Pink version WITHOUT the rims drilled. This is useful info though, cheers! What pedals u run? I just got a set of these and can't believe the weight/strength of them: Nukeproof Electron Evo Pedals | Chain Reaction Cycles

  4. #1604
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    Quote Originally Posted by cr3anmachin3 View Post
    Thanks. I'm new to all the terminology but guessing Mulefut/Nate combo is tyres/rims? That sounds pretty decent. I run a 06' Hardrock converted for road with SLX/Deore kit and it comes in around 12.7kg (28lbs). I'm trying to find out what the stock On-One Fatty comes in at...especially the cheaper £799 Pink version WITHOUT the rims drilled. This is useful info though, cheers! What pedals u run? I just got a set of these and can't believe the weight/strength of them: Nukeproof Electron Evo Pedals | Chain Reaction Cycles
    Correct, the fat wheels I use are Mulefut rims with Novatec hubs, and Surly Nate tires set up tubeless. I run Crank Bro's Eggbeaters or Mallets. Looking at the build on the stock Fatty, I think the biggest weight differential would be the wheels/tires and steel fork. With 700c wheels and commuting style tires (35-40c), you would probably be close to the weight of the Specialized. I have to say, the extra $ to add the carbon fork is worth it. Considerably less expensive to get it as an upgrade now then trying to buy one later.
    On heavy rotation: Stooge 27.5+ SS, On-One Fatty, On-One 456 EVO, Surly Cross-Check, Scott CR1 (SS road)

  5. #1605
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBLoCo29 View Post
    Correct, the fat wheels I use are Mulefut rims with Novatec hubs, and Surly Nate tires set up tubeless. I run Crank Bro's Eggbeaters or Mallets. Looking at the build on the stock Fatty, I think the biggest weight differential would be the wheels/tires and steel fork. With 700c wheels and commuting style tires (35-40c), you would probably be close to the weight of the Specialized. I have to say, the extra $ to add the carbon fork is worth it. Considerably less expensive to get it as an upgrade now then trying to buy one later.
    Yep was wondering if the carbon fork was worth it. The stock Pink Fatty comes in at £900 with the carbon fork (or £800 without) but I'm stuck with a PINK stem (saddle and wheels can be changed in On-One's build config). Pink stem is no biggy as I can swap out with a AKA one I have, but then for £999 I could just get the standard Fatty with carbon fork. It is a pity that my employer does not do the Bike to Work Scheme (up to £1000) as if they did I would be jumping on this like crazy!

  6. #1606
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    I was just looking at the standard Fatty as well. Now that the include the carbon, it doesn't seem worth the trouble to get the pink model and then upgrade for a relatively small price difference. Prior to getting the On-One frame, I had purchased an inexpensive fatbike to test the waters (about $400 less than the complete Fatty). I wound up replacing the majority of parts over the first year, some new, some from my parts bin. Finally moved all the upgraded parts to the new Fatty frame. The brake levers are the only stock parts left from the original bike. Would have been cheaper in the long run to save up longer....
    On heavy rotation: Stooge 27.5+ SS, On-One Fatty, On-One 456 EVO, Surly Cross-Check, Scott CR1 (SS road)

  7. #1607
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    Anyone knows if

    1) the Fun Fatty 24" uses the same hubs as the 26" inches normal Fatty?
    2) same headsets (same headtube dimensions i.e. 44-49?
    3) same bottom bracket type and length?
    4) spare hanger for the 24" Fatty - V1 or V2?
    4) weight of a stock Fun Fatty 24" complete bike
    5) any other tyre options for the 24" beside the vee rubber(they only have 1 option on the site), the tyre does not look as if it would do well on exposed roots and damp rocks

    6) Lastly, any feedback on how the 24" Fun Fatty rides would be great. I ride full suspension and I am really hoping the tyres will act like a full suspension bike, it will be a costly mistake if not.

    Thanks for your patience. No much luck getting email replies from on one it seems

  8. #1608
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    Quote Originally Posted by rug View Post
    Anyone knows if

    1) the Fun Fatty 24" uses the same hubs as the 26" inches normal Fatty?
    2) same headsets (same headtube dimensions i.e. 44-49?
    3) same bottom bracket type and length?
    4) spare hanger for the 24" Fatty - V1 or V2?
    4) weight of a stock Fun Fatty 24" complete bike
    5) any other tyre options for the 24" beside the vee rubber(they only have 1 option on the site), the tyre does not look as if it would do well on exposed roots and damp rocks

    6) Lastly, any feedback on how the 24" Fun Fatty rides would be great. I ride full suspension and I am really hoping the tyres will act like a full suspension bike, it will be a costly mistake if not.

    Thanks for your patience. No much luck getting email replies from on one it seems
    1) same hubs, 135fr 170r both QR
    2) same headsets, use the smoothie mixer for best results.
    3) same BB, standard 100mm fatbike.
    4) same hanger
    4) weight guessing 14kgs
    5) does ANY tyre fat or skinny do well on roots ad damp rocks. The Floater and VEERubbers do a great job in all conditions.
    6) fat tyre bikes feel NOTHING LIKE a dually, they arent a dually SO you need to end the comparo RIGHT there. They ride like no other bike you have ridden. they are bouncey (if you cant SPIN properly and stomp every pedal). The fat tyres have NO rebound like a shock so prepare for the bounce. It will take you at least 4-5 rides to really com to terms with this. I promise you. It will take another 4-5 rides to work out the best air pressure for you and on what types of terrain. sand will be lower and trail will be higher.



    ANOTHER THING FOR NEW ONONE FATTY BUYERS TO BE AWARE OF ....

    On-One 'Fatty' Fat Bike | On - One

    This bike in the above link is the ONLY bike that currently offers the new frame design features listed a few pages back. It isnt listed as a V2 frame but when you look at the SRAM X01 build package it uses the OLD stock frame with Post ti IS mount rear brake and smaller (weaker) seat tube. Its great that they now offer all complete bikes with the carbon fork but please be AWARE that there are now BIG diferences between the V1/V2 frame designs.

    Interestingly the 24" Baby Fatty has the new rear brake mount and better seatmast design too.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails On One Fat Bike Frame-1.jpg  

    KARMA will get YOU & YOU know who you are.

  9. #1609
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    Anyone running this as a single speed? Can you use a 135mm rear hub with spacers or does it warrant a dedicated 170 hub?

  10. #1610
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    Quote Originally Posted by BroJangles View Post
    Anyone running this as a single speed? Can you use a 135mm rear hub with spacers or does it warrant a dedicated 170 hub?
    Yes it would require a dedicated 170mm QR hub. You'd need some funky ass spacers to get 135mm QR to get the disk mounts to line up and your chain line would be worth squat.
    As for single speed ? You'd be fine I suppose but you'd need the "fake derailleur" type of tensioner to get the required chain tension as the drop-outs are vertical and not horizintal .

    HTH


    Fat Biker

  11. #1611
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    Quote Originally Posted by pharcyde View Post
    1) same hubs, 135fr 170r both QR
    2) same headsets, use the smoothie mixer for best results.
    3) same BB, standard 100mm fatbike.
    4) same hanger
    4) weight guessing 14kgs
    5) does ANY tyre fat or skinny do well on roots ad damp rocks. The Floater and VEERubbers do a great job in all conditions.
    6) fat tyre bikes feel NOTHING LIKE a dually, they arent a dually SO you need to end the comparo RIGHT there. They ride like no other bike you have ridden. they are bouncey (if you cant SPIN properly and stomp every pedal). The fat tyres have NO rebound like a shock so prepare for the bounce. It will take you at least 4-5 rides to really com to terms with this. I promise you. It will take another 4-5 rides to work out the best air pressure for you and on what types of terrain. sand will be lower and trail will be higher.



    ANOTHER THING FOR NEW ONONE FATTY BUYERS TO BE AWARE OF ....

    On-One 'Fatty' Fat Bike | On - One

    This bike in the above link is the ONLY bike that currently offers the new frame design features listed a few pages back. It isnt listed as a V2 frame but when you look at the SRAM X01 build package it uses the OLD stock frame with Post ti IS mount rear brake and smaller (weaker) seat tube. Its great that they now offer all complete bikes with the carbon fork but please be AWARE that there are now BIG diferences between the V1/V2 frame designs.

    Interestingly the 24" Baby Fatty has the new rear brake mount and better seatmast design too.
    Hi. Did I read this correctly...the MORE expensive SRAM X01 build comes with the older frame (that may or may not be prone to cracking) whereas the cheaper X5 £999 build (CBOOFATX52) comes with the newer/improved frame?
    I wanted to get a Fatty for a 100k Sportive I just did recently. I realise now that after doing it on a mountainbike against 700 or so roadies that may have been a bit of a stupid idea! I hear you can get slicks for them though and the course was relatively flat. Maybe next time.

  12. #1612
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    ah sorry...just clicked your thumbnail which has the detail and I was correct. Odd that they should ship the top end machine with the older frame design.

  13. #1613
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    on-one pearlwhite color code

    major scratches and major knicks and on-one paint job is rather thin so need to do some cover work?

    anyone know the color code of the on-one pearl white so i can get some from the auto shop?

    thanks in advance.

  14. #1614
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    Quote Originally Posted by pharcyde View Post
    1) same hubs, 135fr 170r both QR
    2) same headsets, use the smoothie mixer for best results.
    3) same BB, standard 100mm fatbike.
    4) same hanger
    4) weight guessing 14kgs
    5) does ANY tyre fat or skinny do well on roots ad damp rocks. The Floater and VEERubbers do a great job in all conditions.
    6) fat tyre bikes feel NOTHING LIKE a dually, they arent a dually SO you need to end the comparo RIGHT there. They ride like no other bike you have ridden. they are bouncey (if you cant SPIN properly and stomp every pedal). The fat tyres have NO rebound like a shock so prepare for the bounce. It will take you at least 4-5 rides to really com to terms with this. I promise you. It will take another 4-5 rides to work out the best air pressure for you and on what types of terrain. sand will be lower and trail will be higher.



    ANOTHER THING FOR NEW ONONE FATTY BUYERS TO BE AWARE OF ....

    On-One 'Fatty' Fat Bike | On - One

    This bike in the above link is the ONLY bike that currently offers the new frame design features listed a few pages back. It isnt listed as a V2 frame but when you look at the SRAM X01 build package it uses the OLD stock frame with Post ti IS mount rear brake and smaller (weaker) seat tube. Its great that they now offer all complete bikes with the carbon fork but please be AWARE that there are now BIG diferences between the V1/V2 frame designs.

    Interestingly the 24" Baby Fatty has the new rear brake mount and better seatmast design too.

    How I rep this guy? What a great dude with great patience to type a great reply! How do I rep him?

  15. #1615
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    Hit the star at the bottom of his post, in line with the reply button.

    Tim

  16. #1616
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    Dammit! Why did I start looking at this thread. I have 4 and a half bikes lying around the apartment (2 are my girlfriends) and I really do NOT need another bike yet I just cannot stop staring at Fat Bikes and the Fatty in particular. I think Charlie the Bikemonger summed it up best when he wrote this. So true....

    WARNING....
    The 12 Stages of Fat Biking
    By Charlie The Bikemonger

    Fat Curious Phase: See pictures of fat bikes, which stimulate fatbike-brain-worms to niggle away at your brain until you just have to actually get a ride on one.
    Discovery Phase: Throw your leg over a fatbike and be pleasantly surprised. This feeds the brainworm until its powerful enough to take control of your wallet.
    Buying Phase: you now wont a fat bike
    Disinformation Phase: Lying to your wife about the true cost of the fat bike phase: it’s ok we all do it.
    Getting To Know You Phase... Get yourself stronger and proving that fat bikes are best by beating geared folk up and down hill.
    Modification Phase: where you just have to tweak the spec for really specific condition, even though it will be fine without the mods. There is a sub-phase of 7.1 called “bloody purple anodising phase”, but we won’t go there.
    Beard Phase: you will now have a beard.
    One Love Phase... Ignore your other bikes
    Evangelist Phase... Become a fat bike evangelist and bang on about it on internet forums. Get angry at people who refuse to accept your offer of a ride on your fat bike. Moan about how skinny tyres destroy the trails. Heckle people whose bikes make them look fat, rather than thin.
    Crusading Phase. Take the fat bike battle to the normal bike heathens by racing fat bikes in normal races.
    Sloppy Emulators Phase: complaint about all mainstream brands building fat bikes, all the new people... “They are nothing more than sloppy emulators at best, who are all these new people, they weren’t there when it was cool, he doesn’t even know what an endomorph is FFS”.
    Getting Over It Phase: Get over it, and quietly ride your fatbike while quietly mumbling it isn’t like it used to be.


    That lot can take ten years or ten weeks.

  17. #1617
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    My 18" V2 Fatty should be delivered today. I'm pretty excited!

    Can I see pictures of what frame bags you guys are using (inside the triangle)? Thanks!

  18. #1618
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatblockabody View Post
    My 18" V2 Fatty should be delivered today. I'm pretty excited!

    Can I see pictures of what frame bags you guys are using (inside the triangle)? Thanks!
    Using the cheapo from Amazon. It's a tight fit, but works pretty well.
    Amazon.com : Ibera Bike Black Medium or Large Triangle Frame Bag - For Bike Tube Frame, Quick-Access : Sports & OutdoorsOn One Fat Bike Frame-img-20150306-00646.jpg
    On heavy rotation: Stooge 27.5+ SS, On-One Fatty, On-One 456 EVO, Surly Cross-Check, Scott CR1 (SS road)

  19. #1619
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    Iberia medium for me.

    2016 Trek Farley 9.6
    2015 616 Muenzie
    2013 On One Fatty
    2011 Trek Sawyer

  20. #1620
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    PSA - Fatty Skewers Cheap!

    If anyone would like a spare set of Fatty QR skewers, they're dirt cheap right now!

    Front $3.80 Rear $4.55

    On-One Quick Release Fat Bike Skewer | Planet X

  21. #1621
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    I apologize for not reading more to find out myself, but need to decide soon as I have a chance to pickup a set of new tires.

    Did anyone fit Snowshoe XL 4.8" studded tires on theirs yet? Do they fit, or what is the largest tire that fits with 2x drivetrain? Thanks.
    2014 Giant Trance 27.5 3
    2016 Norco Sasquatch 6.1

  22. #1622
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    I just ordered a medium On One Fatty frameset V2. Pretty excited. I have a Motobecane FB4 that I've used the last few seasons. I ended up upgrading a lot of stuff on it. I will now swap over a lot of that stuff to the new frameset, and plan on installing a Bluto. I will probably use the FB4 for the winter to get one more season out of it. Next spring I will complete the build and use it as my summer fattie. I think it will be awesome to have the Bluto. Will post pics of build as I go along.

  23. #1623
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    Quote Originally Posted by SundayRiverRider View Post
    I just ordered a medium On One Fatty frameset V2. Pretty excited. I have a Motobecane FB4 that I've used the last few seasons. I ended up upgrading a lot of stuff on it. I will now swap over a lot of that stuff to the new frameset, and plan on installing a Bluto. I will probably use the FB4 for the winter to get one more season out of it. Next spring I will complete the build and use it as my summer fattie. I think it will be awesome to have the Bluto. Will post pics of build as I go along.
    That's exactly what I did but with a Minnesota 2.0. Brake levers and cables are the only original parts left.

    On One Fat Bike Frame-shed-fatty.jpgOn One Fat Bike Frame-img-20140203-00294.jpg
    On heavy rotation: Stooge 27.5+ SS, On-One Fatty, On-One 456 EVO, Surly Cross-Check, Scott CR1 (SS road)

  24. #1624
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    Quote Originally Posted by pharcyde View Post
    THIS POST SHOULD ANSWER ALL THE CONCERNS ABOUT THE FRAME.

    The V2/Series 2 frame has been significantly beefed up in ALL the effected areas. The geo is exactly the same and the new frame design is MUCH cleaner. Do yourself a favor a get on a Fatty, you wont be sorry!

    FYI My black Fatty is for sale in Australia ONLY. PM me for details.
    Yikes. Now I'm paranoid. V1 frame owner here. I've had it about a year and not put too many miles on it. Mostly all snow.


    My biggest complaint so far is that I can't keep the rear wheel in the dropouts. Considering trying Hope or Salsa Skewers. Anyone have similar issues?

    Thanks!

  25. #1625
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    Check your axle. Could be longer than the thickness of your dropouts.
    everything sucks but my vacuum cleaner.

  26. #1626
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    On One Fat Bike Frame-imag0302.jpg
    For anyone considering the Fatty, get one. It's the most fun bike I've ever owned. Mine is a V2, which I have slightly customized. (Built from the ground up) My next step will be to build a 27.5+ wheelset. I have a spare wheelset, and will use hubs to lace them on a set of WTB Scraper rims. Has anyone build it as a 27.5+?

  27. #1627
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    Awesome, I just got one for myself used, most likely a V1 with full XT build and BB7's, but still stock wheels and tires, so that is something I will look into upgrading eventually. Never knew there is a blue one available. Was that custom? Definitely interested in how the 27.5+ will turn out for you.
    2014 Giant Trance 27.5 3
    2016 Norco Sasquatch 6.1

  28. #1628
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    It is a custom powder coat. Candy Blue with Silver Vein. The silver vein adds texture. On One decals from ebay.

  29. #1629
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    Quote Originally Posted by Got2Bike View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    For anyone considering the Fatty, get one. It's the most fun bike I've ever owned. Mine is a V2, which I have slightly customized. (Built from the ground up) My next step will be to build a 27.5+ wheelset. I have a spare wheelset, and will use hubs to lace them on a set of WTB Scraper rims. Has anyone build it as a 27.5+?
    I've seen at least one guy on one of the Facebook groups (forget which) that built a a 27.5+ with Bluto. I already had the 29+ wheels when I got the Fatty frame. Back wheel is pretty close, the 27.5 will be a better fit.
    On heavy rotation: Stooge 27.5+ SS, On-One Fatty, On-One 456 EVO, Surly Cross-Check, Scott CR1 (SS road)

  30. #1630
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    I saw your post on the 29+. In fact, that's why I'm going with the 27.5. Thanks!

  31. #1631
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    Agreed, great bike. Upgraded from a Framed 2.0. I like the way it handles MUCH better.

    On One Fat Bike Frame-fullsizerender.jpg

  32. #1632
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBLoCo29 View Post
    I've seen at least one guy on one of the Facebook groups (forget which) that built a a 27.5+ with Bluto. I already had the 29+ wheels when I got the Fatty frame. Back wheel is pretty close, the 27.5 will be a better fit.
    MTBLoCo29, Could you please measure bead to bead widht of Gravity Vidars? Thanks!

  33. #1633
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    Quote Originally Posted by bvfromru View Post
    MTBLoCo29, Could you please measure bead to bead widht of Gravity Vidars? Thanks!
    Do you mean the sidewall to sidewall width? Bead to bead will be dependent on the rim width.
    On heavy rotation: Stooge 27.5+ SS, On-One Fatty, On-One 456 EVO, Surly Cross-Check, Scott CR1 (SS road)

  34. #1634
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBLoCo29 View Post
    Do you mean the sidewall to sidewall width? Bead to bead will be dependent on the rim width.
    Bead to bead means that you lay the bare tire flat and measure along the tire from one bead to the other. No rim involved. I think what you are thinking of would be rim width.

  35. #1635
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    Yeah, something like this.



    29+ | FAT-BIKE.COM they often use this parameter in descriptions of tire true size.

  36. #1636
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    Quote Originally Posted by bvfromru View Post
    MTBLoCo29, Could you please measure bead to bead widht of Gravity Vidars? Thanks!
    Wasn't planning on having the tires off any time soon, but I found this:

    1st Look Gravity Vidar 29 x 3 Tire |

    There's also a link in the above article with weights and measurements of some other + tires.

    The Plus Bikes Tire Data Sheet |
    On heavy rotation: Stooge 27.5+ SS, On-One Fatty, On-One 456 EVO, Surly Cross-Check, Scott CR1 (SS road)

  37. #1637
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    MTBLoCo29, thanks man! Extremely useful!

  38. #1638
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    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by tfinator View Post
    Go 10 posts back. Someone asked about a 4.8. The answer was no.
    Nope Guys the answer is yes, the ChaoYang 4.9 is a pretty good tyre, it's 30 inches high and it just fit the rear frame (less than 2mm from the lower frame reinforcement) I'm having a lot of fun on these.

    On One Fat Bike Frame-img_20151008_081032%5B1%5D.jpg

    I didn't brake the frame yet, could it be because I'm using a carbon seat tube?

  39. #1639
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    Quote Originally Posted by Antonio3z View Post
    Nope Guys the answer is yes, the ChaoYang 4.9 is a pretty good tyre, it's 30 inches high and it just fit the rear frame (less than 2mm from the lower frame reinforcement) I'm having a lot of fun on these.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20151008_081032[1].jpg 
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    I didn't brake the frame yet, could it be because I'm using a carbon seat tube?
    That's great! Still waiting on them JJs to try out on mine!
    2016 Trek Farley 9.6
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    Awesome, is that on 2x10? I was planning to get studded Snowshoe XL's 4.8, but thought they would not fit.
    2014 Giant Trance 27.5 3
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  41. #1641
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    Quote Originally Posted by Antonio3z View Post
    Nope Guys the answer is yes, the ChaoYang 4.9 is a pretty good tyre, it's 30 inches high and it just fit the rear frame (less than 2mm from the lower frame reinforcement) I'm having a lot of fun on these.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20151008_081032[1].jpg 
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ID:	1021062

    I didn't brake the frame yet, could it be because I'm using a carbon seat tube?
    Can you get closer pictures of the clearance of tires around the frame and chain.

    Is your frame a V1 or V2?

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    Antonio3z, could you please tell us full tyre name and where did you buy it?
    I can see "Big Daddy" on the photo, but i can't find Big Daddy 4,9 anywhere in the internet..

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    Quote Originally Posted by bvfromru View Post
    Antonio3z, could you please tell us full tyre name and where did you buy it?
    I can see "Big Daddy" on the photo, but i can't find Big Daddy 4,9 anywhere in the internet..

    I think it might be this tyre .

    The "Big Daddy" is the name that ChaoYang seems to be giving a range of fat bike tyres . They all appear to have a similar tread pattern just in different sizes (here), hence the same name I suppose.

    Reasonably priced but a touch on the heavy side for a folding tyre IMO (although taking the actual size into account probably not so much LOL)



    Fat Biker

  44. #1644
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    Thanks, man! Antonio3z, we need more photos!

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    I see there has been some back and forth on larger tires fitting and it's not really clear. Has anyone been able to fit a 4.8 knard front or rear or both on a V2 fatty with 80mm rims? I'm 1x.

    It seems as though we need to start a matrix or list of wheel/tire/drivetrain combinations that fit on these bikes. It also seems like the chainstay bridge is the limiting factor in fitting a large tire in the rear?
    Last edited by fatblockabody; 10-22-2015 at 07:48 AM. Reason: grammar

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    about to pull the trigger on the V2 they have left as a bare frame in the 18" size. Trying to keep this a low budget build and already have all parts with the exception of the frame, fork and bars.

    Any thoughts on the steel vs. carbon fork? The carbon puts me out of budget but more importantly which fork has better tire clearance? The 1.5 pound weight savings is nice, but I rather be able to run larger tires in the future.

    Also should I go longer than 720mm for the bars? I am 5'9".

  47. #1647
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    Quote Originally Posted by qclabrat View Post
    about to pull the trigger on the V2 they have left as a bare frame in the 18" size. Trying to keep this a low budget build and already have all parts with the exception of the frame, fork and bars.

    Any thoughts on the steel vs. carbon fork? The carbon puts me out of budget but more importantly which fork has better tire clearance? The 1.5 pound weight savings is nice, but I rather be able to run larger tires in the future.

    Also should I go longer than 720mm for the bars? I am 5'9".
    I've seen pics of a Bud up front on both steel and carbon fork. I love my carbon fatty fork, but two things to consider if you are building frame up and they may depend on the wheels you have:
    1- What front hub are you running currently? The fatty uses the 135QR with rear disk spacing like Surly, most newer hubs are using the front disk spacing. It's much easier to make a rear spaced hub fit a front spaced fork than the other way around. Found that out the hard way.
    2- If you are thinking of putting a Bluto on in the future, I would think about getting a rigid 150x15 through axle fork and relacing a matching hub. That way you would have an easy swap when the budget allowed for the squish fork.

    As for bars, I have 710 risers right now and have had 720 flats too. I'm happy with both of them. Plenty of leverage for the big tires, but not unmanageable in tight singletrack.

    Pic shows HuDu on 80mm rims for an idea of how much more room there is for fatter tires on the carbon.
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    On heavy rotation: Stooge 27.5+ SS, On-One Fatty, On-One 456 EVO, Surly Cross-Check, Scott CR1 (SS road)

  48. #1648
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    Quote Originally Posted by qclabrat View Post
    about to pull the trigger on the V2 they have left as a bare frame in the 18" size. Trying to keep this a low budget build and already have all parts with the exception of the frame, fork and bars.

    Any thoughts on the steel vs. carbon fork? The carbon puts me out of budget but more importantly which fork has better tire clearance? The 1.5 pound weight savings is nice, but I rather be able to run larger tires in the future.

    Also should I go longer than 720mm for the bars? I am 5'9".
    If you go longer on the bars you can chop them down if they're too wide. If you go 720mm and they're not wide enough you'll need to buy wider bars (blowing the budget ?). Before you chop the bars just slide the controls and grips in first for a ride or two to test the width and see what feels better.

    I personally haven't noticed any difference in clearance between the carbon and steel fork at the sides. The crown has maybe a touch more , although I've not measured them, just eyeballed. But if you can spring for the carbons do it. It's well worth the weight reduction. You'll be glad you did.

    Speaking of weight reduction try and go tubeless. One of the best riding improvements for the Fatty you can do.

    As far as tyre clearance goes I don't believe there's any difference in clearance between V1 and V2 frames. If there is it's going to be a matter of MM's if that.

    The V1 frame I have has what I would call acceptable clearance for a genuine 4" wide tyre if riding in muddy conditions (UK - permanently rains ). Mine is the 2x set up and is quite happy use the chain to remove most of the gloop from the rear tyre in the lowest gear.

    For this reason I personally wouldn't want to go much, if at all wider than the standard floaters. It all depends on the conditions you ride in I suppose. Snow you could go a touch wider but its the chain stays not the bridge that is the limiting factor to tyre width. The only time I've heard of the bridge being the problem before the stays was for the guy who ran 29+ wheels. And the hairs on top of the tread were buzzing the bridge.

    It is possible to run wider but not by much even 1x if you're riding in anything other than sand or snow. It all depends on what you're happy with clearance wise. Some folks think 2-3 mm is fine. Here in the UK not so much. YMMV.

    HTH ?


    Fat Biker

  49. #1649
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    Yeah, that's me with the 29+ wheels. Beer can guard has worked so far to protect the frame. Good point on the bars. You can always make them narrower, many bars have the tic marks etched into the end to make cutting easier. Try the controls in a few positions and see what's comfortable.
    On heavy rotation: Stooge 27.5+ SS, On-One Fatty, On-One 456 EVO, Surly Cross-Check, Scott CR1 (SS road)

  50. #1650
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBLoCo29 View Post
    I've seen pics of a Bud up front on both steel and carbon fork. I love my carbon fatty fork, but two things to consider if you are building frame up and they may depend on the wheels you have:
    1- What front hub are you running currently? The fatty uses the 135QR with rear disk spacing like Surly, most newer hubs are using the front disk spacing. It's much easier to make a rear spaced hub fit a front spaced fork than the other way around. Found that out the hard way.
    2- If you are thinking of putting a Bluto on in the future, I would think about getting a rigid 150x15 through axle fork and relacing a matching hub. That way you would have an easy swap when the budget allowed for the squish fork.

    As for bars, I have 710 risers right now and have had 720 flats too. I'm happy with both of them. Plenty of leverage for the big tires, but not unmanageable in tight singletrack.

    Pic shows HuDu on 80mm rims for an idea of how much more room there is for fatter tires on the carbon.
    Name:  Winter fatty.PNG
Views: 484
Size:  213.7 KB
    thanks all for the quick replies, but I do have a question on the rear hub configuration. I wasn't aware it is dished like a Surly. does it mean that all Surly's have that odd dishing like the 135mm Pug rear wheel? I'll need to read up on what that means, if that's the case, either I'll need the wheel rebuilt or go with another frame choice

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