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  1. #1501
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    Thanks, that is helpful...I think I should be able to clear the dozer tire.

    Quote Originally Posted by fishcreek View Post
    here it is BFL'd.
    -VeloRyan-

  2. #1502
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    Fatty. White Industries SnowWhite. Mulefut. Floaters. Shimano Zee. Race Face.

    Just a teaser. Setup tubeless with stan's tape, scotch 8898, and orange seal with no issues - still holding air after 3 days.

    I've given it a quick drive around the block, but nothing outside of a gravel path. I'm itching to get out and get it on a real trail this weekend.

    On One Fat Bike Frame-2014-10-14-05.22.27.jpg

  3. #1503
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    Nice build...what's the weight?
    Quote Originally Posted by Griffin32 View Post
    Just a teaser. Setup tubeless with stan's tape, scotch 8898, and orange seal with no issues - still holding air after 3 days.

    I've given it a quick drive around the block, but nothing outside of a gravel path. I'm itching to get out and get it on a real trail this weekend.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    -VeloRyan-

  4. #1504
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    On One Fat Bike Frame

    Quote Originally Posted by fishcreek View Post
    just finished drilling the rims today...

    Holes looks great. I did my drilling yesterday. Traditional way and only 30mm.


  5. #1505
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    Quote Originally Posted by PedroK View Post
    Holes looks great. I did my drilling yesterday. Traditional way and only 30mm.

    2 questions

    What did you use for the orange colouring and once you put your rim tape on, did you apply duck tape as well?

  6. #1506
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    On One Fat Bike Frame

    Tape is orange duct tape. First one layer and the second layer of tape the other way round . Then, the original rim tape . Never did this before and I did not know what is the right way
    Last edited by PedroK; 10-16-2014 at 07:59 AM.

  7. #1507
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    Delete
    Last edited by tartosuc; 10-16-2014 at 05:16 PM.
    expensive cars are a waste of money. Expensive bikes...not so much!

  8. #1508
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    Quote Originally Posted by VeloRyan View Post
    Nice build...what's the weight?
    Not quite sure. Every thing is fairly weight conscious except the Zee brakes and Race Face Atlas bars. I'm certain that I'm less than 30lbs as pictured. Maybe around 26?

  9. #1509
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    Quote Originally Posted by Griffin32 View Post
    Just a teaser. Setup tubeless with stan's tape, scotch 8898, and orange seal with no issues - still holding air after 3 days.

    I've given it a quick drive around the block, but nothing outside of a gravel path. I'm itching to get out and get it on a real trail this weekend.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    OK. Here's the update after a few break-in rides.

    The build was fairly strait forward. On-One Fatty Frame with their house Smoothie Mixer headset. I opted for the carbon fork because I ride carbon forks on almost every other bike I own with no issue. Plus I liked what others said about it on here. I used their house bung as recommended for the installation. No issues there.

    Race Face Turbine Stem, crankset, and seat post. All very nice quality and decently priced when comparing to other options. I also watched fleaBay like a hawk for to try to get the lowest price for each item. All mounted with no issue. I also used the Race Face narrow-wide 30T chainring in the front for my 1x10 setup. The Wolf Tooth chainring I have on my other MTB is nicer, but the Race Face product seems nice for the money.

    White Industries SnoWhite hubs laced to SunRingle MuleFut rims. Built by Dustin at southernwheelworks.com. Mounted tubeless. I used a narrowed Surly rimstrip (64mm) that I taped in place using Stans Tape starting at the bead. I then lined the wide portion of the rim with the super-wide 3M 8898 tape. I mounted the tires with tubes initially to make sure the tape had all of the bubbles squeezed out. After leaving the tires overnight, I pulled the tubes out - ensuring to leave one of the beads set. I then dumped in some Orange Brand sealant (4oz per tire) and installed my Stans valve stems. I was able to get the beads to catch using only a floor pump VERY EASILY. The tires held air since I mounted them.

    (A quick aside: Dustin at SouthernWheelWorks was GREAT to work with. It's great to email the guy who builds your wheels and to have a conversation with him before committing to purchase. He offered some advice when it came to my initial thoughts on the wheelset and was spot on. I highly recommend his service. Top notch member of the greater cycling community. Dustin: If I'm ever in your neck of the woods, beer is on me.)

    The rest of the build is simple. Shimano Zee drivetrain and brakes. I opted for the simpler RT66 rotors though. 180f and 160r. The braking is amazing. Modulation and power are awesome. Can't say enough about them. The drivetrain setup was strait forward and shifts as well as my much more expensive XO setup on my other MTB.

    The ride is ridiculous, but a good ridiculous. Like a barrel full of chubby monkeys. I've read what others have said about tire pressures, but so far I've either been too high (kinda bouncy) or too low (self steering issues). As soon as I dial it in, I can't see myself riding anything else. I can't wait to ride it some more!

    On One Fat Bike Frame-2014-10-17-09.15.02.jpg
    On One Fat Bike Frame-2014-10-17-09.15.11.jpg
    On One Fat Bike Frame-2014-10-17-09.15.24.jpg
    On One Fat Bike Frame-2014-10-17-09.15.34.jpg
    On One Fat Bike Frame-2014-10-17-09.15.49.jpg
    On One Fat Bike Frame-2014-10-17-09.16.09.jpg

  10. #1510
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    I like the low profile look of the Mulefut rims. Nice bike.
    I see hills.

    I want to climb them.

  11. #1511
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    On One Fat Bike Frame

    I was afraid that the tape was too red, but it is really good.



  12. #1512
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    first real ride with mine.
    unfortunately I had a flat front tire in less than2km
    eneded up at the house drilling the rims and attempting a tubeless conversion
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails On One Fat Bike Frame-img_20141019_182000.jpg  

    On One Fat Bike Frame-img_20141019_100445.jpg  

    expensive cars are a waste of money. Expensive bikes...not so much!

  13. #1513
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    Quote Originally Posted by Griffin32 View Post
    White Industries SnoWhite hubs laced to SunRingle MuleFut rims. Built by Dustin at southernwheelworks.com. ...

    (A quick aside: Dustin at SouthernWheelWorks was GREAT to work with. It's great to email the guy who builds your wheels and to have a conversation with him before committing to purchase. He offered some advice when it came to my initial thoughts on the wheelset and was spot on. I highly recommend his service. Top notch member of the greater cycling community. Dustin: If I'm ever in your neck of the woods, beer is on me.)

    Wow, thanks for the kind words! That bike looks great!!

  14. #1514
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    Quote Originally Posted by Griffin32 View Post
    Not quite sure. Every thing is fairly weight conscious except the Zee brakes and Race Face Atlas bars. I'm certain that I'm less than 30lbs as pictured. Maybe around 26?
    very nice build! is the carbon fork front disk spaced? THanks!

  15. #1515
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    Quote Originally Posted by JRockF3 View Post
    very nice build! is the carbon fork front disk spaced? THanks!
    Please confirm with both the On-One and White Industries websites, but the fork is rear spaced as well as the hub. I used regular front Shimano 180 brake mount. No issues with the setup.

  16. #1516
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    Quote Originally Posted by fishcreek View Post
    here it is BFL'd.
    like previously mentioned, the tire size issue is not the chainstay clearance but chain clearance. with the BFL, you have less than 10mm gap and most likely touch if you run 2x10.
    So as far as I've understood there's no hope to run a Surly Lou with the standard 70mm rim at the rear.

    After checking the entire forum, seems that none has never tried the Lou with the Fatty.

    Any advice?

  17. #1517
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    yeah no way a lou will fit, you can fit a 4.7 big fat larry or 4.25" H-Billie
    Last edited by emp?; 10-23-2014 at 06:04 PM.
    Josh

  18. #1518
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    interesting....notice anything...brant around?




  19. #1519
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    that a carbon fatty looks like it fit a big rear

  20. #1520
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    Quote Originally Posted by dRjOn View Post
    interesting....notice anything...brant around?
    Let's bring on an on-one carbon fatty with 190mm rear, thru axles, bluto ready and a 150mm carbon fork, and a carbon wheelset. All bundled into a rolling chassis bundle.

  21. #1521
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    Quote Originally Posted by dRjOn View Post
    interesting....notice anything...brant around?
    That is interesting, considering the closest news we've had about any carbon fatty was from awhile ago, and Italians were working on it! On-One Carbon Fatbike Collaboration with Sarto Bikes? UPDATED

    What is going on here?!

  22. #1522
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    Do you think the Snowshoe xl or bulldozer will fit in the rear?

  23. #1523
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    Just tried fit of bulldozer, and it fits with plenty of clearance at CS and seatstay.

    Quote Originally Posted by Binderez View Post
    Do you think the Snowshoe xl or bulldozer will fit in the rear?
    -VeloRyan-

  24. #1524
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    Quote Originally Posted by VeloRyan View Post
    Just tried fit of bulldozer, and it fits with plenty of clearance at CS and seatstay.
    Cool thanks! I ordered a set of snowshoe xls for my Fatty build, hopefully the Snowshoe xl will fit if not Ill just switch it for a bulldozer.

  25. #1525
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    Quote Originally Posted by VeloRyan View Post
    Just tried fit of bulldozer, and it fits with plenty of clearance at CS and seatstay.
    how about chain clearance?
    everything sucks but my vacuum cleaner.

  26. #1526
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    Not sure about chain clearance, I'm at the very beginning stages of parts gathering to build my Fatty still

    Quote Originally Posted by fishcreek View Post
    how about chain clearance?
    -VeloRyan-

  27. #1527
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    Got it below 30 lbs. Took about 3lbs off installing Race Face Turbine Cinch Cranks & Black Floyds.


    2016 Trek Farley 9.6
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    2013 On One Fatty
    2011 Trek Sawyer

  28. #1528
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    Hi m8s:

    I have a question. I want to buy the E.13 TRS+ cranks to my Fatty, but i dont know what bottom bracket have to buy. Someone can me help?
    Thx

    e.13 By The Hive TRS+ Fat Bike Crank > Components > Drivetrain > Cranksets | Jenson USA

  29. #1529
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    Quote Originally Posted by evokronik View Post
    Hi m8s:

    I have a question. I want to buy the E.13 TRS+ cranks to my Fatty, but i dont know what bottom bracket have to buy. Someone can me help?
    Thx

    e.13 By The Hive TRS+ Fat Bike Crank > Components > Drivetrain > Cranksets | Jenson USA
    The link to jenson is the discontinued model with a 67.5mm chain line. Make sure your frame can take this crank before purchasing.

    You will need an e.13 specific threaded/bsa bb. I don't believe there are many inter-compatible bb's from other manufacturers compatible with the trs+ Fat cranks.

  30. #1530
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    Hello. I have a problem with my fatty frame. I have seen a failure in the seat tube. Dont know if it is a paint damage or the frame is broken.

    I have sent 2 online questions and eight mails asking about what to do and the next steps to use my warranty. On One Bikes dont answer me.

    I have a inbred 29er and a Scandal bikes. Im a fanboy of On One Bikes but they arent doing nothing with my problem.







    sorry my english
    On One Fatty
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  31. #1531
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    That just looks like paint to me.

  32. #1532
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    Quote Originally Posted by dgaddis1 View Post
    That just looks like paint to me.
    I agree... that is on the weld and the least likely area to crack.

  33. #1533
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    I am curious about how much seat post you have inserted in to the frame?
    -VeloRyan-

  34. #1534
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    Quote Originally Posted by VeloRyan View Post
    I am curious about how much seat post you have inserted in to the frame?
    Hi!

    The end of the seat post is 5cm under the damage zone

    I think its a paint damage but the problem is the non-response of the brand.
    On One Fatty
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  35. #1535
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    Quote Originally Posted by gretch View Post
    I agree... that is on the weld and the least likely area to crack.
    Very likely a crack mine cracked there too. Check also where the seatstay connect with seattube they tend to crack as well at the weld. I did get quite a quick reply though and replacement.

  36. #1536
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    Quote Originally Posted by TCG View Post
    Very likely a crack mine cracked there too. Check also where the seatstay connect with seattube they tend to crack as well at the weld. I did get quite a quick reply though and replacement.
    Hi! I had have the answer from On One. The problem was with my Hotmail account. I told them my problem via Gmail and they reply me quickly. They wil replace me the frame
    On One Fatty
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  37. #1537
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    Dillinger 5s clear the seat and chainstays just fine. Chain will depend on your gears and drivetrain setup, but it's definitely do-able.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  38. #1538
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    Any chance for some pics from side and the rear? Thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    Dillinger 5s clear the seat and chainstays just fine. Chain will depend on your gears and drivetrain setup, but it's definitely do-able.
    -VeloRyan-

  39. #1539
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    Perhaps, the bike isn't running, but it has most drivetrain components.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  40. #1540
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    There is a little bit of rubbing on the chainguide, this wouldn't be a problem with narrow-wide+clutch derailleur, as you'd ditch the chainguide, the chain does just barely rub on the tire knobs (the cassette is an ultegra 11-30). Also, with a narrow-wide+clutch you won't have a loose chain bouncing into the tire. I suspect with a race-face turbine setup like I have on my other 170mm-hub fatbike you could arrange the spacers to give a little additional clearance and not have to do anything else most likely. Supposedly on the race-face setup you can "flip" the chainring and run it on the outside of the crankset too, but this hasn't been necessary on my carbon 170mm fatbike. The other way would be to eliminate the top-gear with a spacer and run it as 1x9. If you really want to do it though, it can be done I think. Frame clearance (hard to see in pics) is fine. Tires were at 40psi too.

    On One Fat Bike Frame-img_1223.jpgOn One Fat Bike Frame-img_1225.jpgOn One Fat Bike Frame-img_1226.jpg
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  41. #1541
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    Tires were at 40psi too.
    Say wut ?????


    Fat Biker

  42. #1542
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fat Biker View Post
    Say wut ?????


    Fat Biker
    It's how you stretch tires for tubeless to make mounting easier.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  43. #1543
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    It's how you stretch tires for tubeless to make mounting easier.

    Never had the pleasure (fortunately) of going tubless on fat bike wheels .
    My On-One Floaters on the factory Fatty rims have a hard time staying on . They're super loose .

    I realise tyres vary slightly in fit to various rims. And some need a little stretching and persuasion but 40psi I would say for a fat tyre that is too close to the limit for my taste. YMMV

    I think the Floaters are rated at 20psi max.


    Different kettle of fish but I've had tyres blow off 29er rims 10-20% below max psi and the tyre was ruined. Tyre looked perfectly fine upon inspection but would blow off the rim at lower and lower pressures.

    The Floaters pumped up to they're rated max of 20psi are rock solid

    Dunno what your tyres are rated at psi-wise but I would stick to max psi if I were you.

    For nothing else other than risking unseen internal structure damage to the carcass , cos some of these things ain't cheap to replace.

    Just sayin . You might have had a better experience.

    Happy trails.



    Fat Biker

  44. #1544
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    I've destroyed two near new floaters by over inflation. Once in a hot car, and second trying to get split tube tubeless to seat the bead. I won't go there again.
    I see hills.

    I want to climb them.

  45. #1545
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fat Biker View Post
    Never had the pleasure (fortunately) of going tubless on fat bike wheels .
    My On-One Floaters on the factory Fatty rims have a hard time staying on . They're super loose .

    I realise tyres vary slightly in fit to various rims. And some need a little stretching and persuasion but 40psi I would say for a fat tyre that is too close to the limit for my taste. YMMV

    I think the Floaters are rated at 20psi max.


    Different kettle of fish but I've had tyres blow off 29er rims 10-20% below max psi and the tyre was ruined. Tyre looked perfectly fine upon inspection but would blow off the rim at lower and lower pressures.

    The Floaters pumped up to they're rated max of 20psi are rock solid

    Dunno what your tyres are rated at psi-wise but I would stick to max psi if I were you.

    For nothing else other than risking unseen internal structure damage to the carcass , cos some of these things ain't cheap to replace.

    Just sayin . You might have had a better experience.

    Happy trails.



    Fat Biker
    Um, pumping up tubeless tires like this is something you just do overnight. You also pump them up past 20psi when setting them on the rim, as they "pop" into place from the center channel to over the hump into the bead-lock. This makes a rather loud "bang" when it happens, and the rim is designed to offer a lot of resistance to keep the tire "sealed" in the process. Then you run like 3-10psi for the rest of the time, there won't be any catastrophic failures with psi that low. Even at 20psi the air just kind of slowly rushes out.

    Yes, those floater rims are pretty terrible, combined with the loose tire it's almost impossible to get the things centered and "round" with tubes. There's always like 1/4" or more of warp left to right and like 1/2 out of round near the tube stem, unless you are using the big heavy surly or original on-one tubes, which are too heavy to be acceptable IMO, but hey, they do work.

    I did run ghetto-tubless on one of the on-one rims and it was super easy to set up, it also bypassed the "loose tire" problems and set up a nice profile that did not have any of the warping/setting issues. I don't know if I'd try this with a floater (did it with a vee tires bulldozer, which is intended to be tubeless) though. Once you get enough pressure to lock the tire bead on the floaters, which I've found can easily exceed 20psi, then you can generally reduce the pressure way down, even with tubes, but yes, they are loose when not filled up and frustrating. Can't fault them too much though, they are plenty strong IME.

    I've never had tires damaged due to too much internal pressure, but I have had tears and punctures that required significant repair. Any form of tape was usually totally insufficient, as the tube and PSI would eventually "win" and push it out from the inside. Sewing it back was usually the answer and held up decent in the long run, although there are some tougher patches and glue that supposedly work. I've never had a tire blow off the rim, but I'd have to suspect low pressures over high, as high usually reinforces the tire in the bead-lock, vs low gives it the ability to wiggle, but as you said, experiences vary and there's a wide range of stuff out there.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  46. #1546
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    On One Fat Bike Frame

    Anyone have a good recipe for setting up tubeless on the stock fatty rims with the floaters?

    I currently use the schwalbe sv13f tubes, which are 180g each, so I'm trying not to add anymore weight, if possible. Thinking some kind of lightweight, dense foam to take up the slack between the loose fitting floaters and some kind of tape over that to seal against. Any suggestions?

  47. #1547
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    4oz of stans is about 125g and you'll probably need a bit more to seal up initially, so maybe 6oz to be conservative (it's going to spray a bit at first as you get the bead to lock).

    I don't think you're going to save any weight, possibly add. The benefits outweight the negatives and I'll say this: I spent at least an entire day a year ago or so trying to do some sort of foam-thing to the on-one rims to allow me to run the floaters tubeless. Course it would have added a lot more weight due to the foam and tape, etc.

    I did ghetto tubeless a few months ago and it sealed up with a floor pump. Took all of about 15 minutes. With fatbikes especially, the benefits of tubeless is not weight. It's rolling resistance, thorn resistance and ability to run very low pressures and not pinch a tube/have supple tires that conform.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  48. #1548
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    Quote Originally Posted by jvm051 View Post
    Just rebuilt the wheels after my friend crashed and broke my front wheel, and added a Bluto
    so, 6 weeks on, how's this working out?

  49. #1549
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomforeal View Post
    so, 6 weeks on, how's this working out?
    I'm curious on this too. How's the steering compare and is the Bluto 80 or 100mm?
    "I ride to clear my head, my head is clearer when I'm riding SS. Therefore, I choose to ride SS."~ Fullrange Drew

  50. #1550
    Elitest thrill junkie
    Reputation: Jayem's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    23,656
    It's back from the dead:
    On One Fat Bike Frame-gedc0452s.jpgOn One Fat Bike Frame-gedc0453s.jpgOn One Fat Bike Frame-gedc0454s.jpgOn One Fat Bike Frame-gedc0455s.jpg
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

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