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  1. #751
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveJfromtheSwitch View Post
    the correct way
    negative, left is front, right is rear.

  2. #752
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    depends on what side of the road you drive on (and what side of the car you steer from)

  3. #753
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    Quote Originally Posted by nvphatty View Post
    negative, left is front, right is rear.
    I sense a fight brewing

    This could be a bigger issue that Campag vs Shimano on the road!
    If you need me I'll be at the bar

  4. #754
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    nah, just mucking around, i actually have a USA Necro on it's way to me and i'm sure the levers will be around the other way, no biggie to switch them around

  5. #755
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    I have now the road bike with UK-style position, and my KM with USA-style position.

    This gave me some more emotions when I need to brake the first time...

  6. #756
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    Quote Originally Posted by ljracer View Post
    Except the first technical descent i'll grab a bunch of front brake on accident and endo!!

    Been there, done that, got the t-shirt, but the bruises have faded!
    (Being used to UK style, but on a US/European style brake setup)

    I blame the French (well Napoleon) Which side of the road do they drive on? Brian Lucas

    Sheldon Brown actually set his bikes up the "UK way" despite being in the US. (Braking and Turning Your Bicycle)

    Anyway, enough useless trivia for one day

  7. #757
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    Quote Originally Posted by exigetastic View Post
    ...Sheldon Brown actually set his bikes up the "UK way" despite being in the US...
    Makes sense if you ride a motorbike. Nothing worse than grabbing a handful of clutch when you want to stop in a hurry
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
    Latitude: 5736' Highlands, Scotland

  8. #758
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    Well if Sheldon did it, that settles the argument then. Front is right, rear is left.



    or whatever floats your boat
    I see hills.

    I want to climb them.

  9. #759
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    I've ridden bikes with the brakes the 'wrong' (whatever your POV) way round enough times to know that it's "not a good thing", always having to concentrate rather than enjoying the ride
    If you need me I'll be at the bar

  10. #760
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    Quote Originally Posted by titusquasi View Post
    I'm also 6'3". What do you think of the fit on your size large? Top tube seems pretty short but I would appreciate any feedback. Thanks.
    TBH So far it's fine, but I've not really done a long enough stint on it to really confirm. (Max non stop ride time so far is only 1hr)

    As this is the largest size, I guess the only way to increase the cockpit length is to move the saddle back / increase stem length. I have moved the saddle back as far as it will go, but the factory stem is still on the bike and I can't see me changing it.

    Saying that I may not be the best person to ask, my bikes have all been more race geo than trail. (My other 2 MTBs are a Whippet and Genius MC20). So I'm actually finding the Fatty nice because it is seems more of a cruiser, and I feel more "in the bike" than sat on top of it. I don't want to change the character.

    HTH

    Si

  11. #761
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    I ride motor bikes, and bicycles, and I still like my bicycles with the front on the left. but a friend of mine who was left handed liked the bicycle set up with the rear brake on the left. It is all a matter of personal preference.
    I don't understand what it has to do with what side of the road you drive on though. In a right hand drive car the gas pedal is still on the right side of the brake, right?

  12. #762
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    Quote Originally Posted by nvphatty View Post
    negative, left is front, right is rear.
    Regardless of cultural customs, because you do your real braking with the front brake, you should logically position the front brake where your most tactile & strongest hand is: southpaw left, "normal" right.

  13. #763
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    Quote Originally Posted by autodoctor911 View Post
    ...I don't understand what it has to do with what side of the road you drive on though. In a right hand drive car the gas pedal is still on the right side of the brake, right?
    I was once told - but can't remember where - that the front brake is on the right in the UK so that you can signal to turn left and brake at the same time. In countries where you drive on the right the front brake is on the left so that you can turn right signalling and braking at the same time.

    This makes sense in that it's for the 'easy' turn, i.e. not turning across traffic.
    If you need me I'll be at the bar

  14. #764
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveJfromtheSwitch View Post
    depends on what side of the road you drive on (and what side of the car you steer from)
    so now our MTB's are on the road eah?? are we driving them too hate to break the news to ya but this is about bikes not cages so the answer is still negative.

  15. #765
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    Quote Originally Posted by caminoloco View Post
    Regardless of cultural customs, because you do your real braking with the front brake, you should logically position the front brake where your most tactile & strongest hand is: southpaw left, "normal" right.
    not sure about this method of rational but i'm right handed so i reach across when needed

    my apologies to the OP for the diversion.

  16. #766
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    On One Fat Bike Frame-imageuploadedbytapatalk1355954846.548339.jpg
    Out for a quick test ride. Super fun and grippy.

  17. #767
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    Ok, so who's gonna be first to drill out these On-One rims, and post some pics?

  18. #768
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    anyone wanting a granny gear for their Fatty should check this out:
    Truvativ Holzfeller MY10 2.2 Howitzer Chainset | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com

    they have white ones too.

  19. #769
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    If you want a granny ring, go for the Truvativ Holzfeller 1.1 Trials Chainset. Chain Reaction sells them and that'll give you a 22t with a bashguard. That's a real granny ring, so you can rock crawl as much as you like. Don't expect high sped though, unless gravity is doing its part to help.

  20. #770
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    The Holzfeller MY10 2.2 Howitzer Chainset only says 8/9 speed, perhaps someone can clarify if it'll work on a 10 speed chain?

    It's a 2 chainring crank too, so this is ideal for those wanting a 2x10 conversion (if it'll work).

  21. #771
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  22. #772
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    Yep cheaper, but they're 2 & 3 chainring cranks. I chose the 1.1 because it's a single chainring like the original. Plus it has a proper (metal) bash-guard for those slightly too adventurous treks.

    Great if you want to add a front derailer and run double or triple cranks though.

  23. #773
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    On the cranks topic, it's a pity most manufacturers seem to stick with even number teeth. Odd numbers have much better wear characteristics. They share the load between inner and outer chain links on each rotation. Obviously the XX1 can't do this, but that's another topic all-together (like this one should be actually).

    (Edit: Of course a half link combats this too)
    Last edited by fluap; 12-20-2012 at 03:58 AM.

  24. #774
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    Quote Originally Posted by fluap View Post
    On the cranks topic, it's a pity most manufacturers seem to stick with even number teeth. Odd numbers have much better wear characteristics. They share the load between inner and outer chain links on each rotation. Obviously the XX1 can't do this, but that's another topic all-together (like this one should be actually).

    (Edit: Of course a half link combats this too)
    I don't understand. unless all your cogs are even, won't this cancel out on the odd cogs?

  25. #775
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    I'm actually talking about wear of the sides of the teeth. If you wipe down your chainring, then go for a ride, you'll see each 2nd tooth gets chain lube on it from the inner links. Remember this is only the case if you have an even number of teeth on the chainring, AND you can't change up or down gears up front. Basically if there's lube on something, it's been in contact with another part.

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