Cheers Katz, I usually post them here in the Fatbike film thread.
The planet-x/on-one US site has their fattys available to purchase but "in stock soon", my thinking was if enough people pre purchase before they become available then they wont become available at all
I have no idea the numbers they are getting in but ive learned that well priced FATBIKE things don't hang around too long.
I wish it were that simple, if this frame doesn't sell I'm not going fat for a while. Doesn't look like its going to either. I'll be half fat once again.
^Cool. Thanks for posting the vid! Mine was delivered on Friday - alas, I'm in the opposite end of the country (residence in CA, I'm in AL at the moment).
I'd take it the X9 shifter/derailleur combo is your own addition?
Saved just a hair over a pound on the rear wheel by changing tubes and and operating on her.. been reading this whole rotational mass savings issue is a bit overrated, but hey at least the front and rear matches now and I'll be able to accelerate like 2% faster now! That's all that count right?
No Jig, no pilot holes, just centre punched and drilled, stood on the rim on the lawn. Aluminium is so soft I never had the drill slip. Bit of a mission de-burring, but the Dremel did the job. Did nick a spoke so all I can say is take it slow! Took quite a while to get it all done. More like 3hrs. Either way thanks for putting the vid up John: Drilling fat bike rims in built wheels - YouTube
Next up will be going 2x10 on the front. Manage to get hold of a crank set, so just need a front mech and shifters. Anybody here got some advice as to what mech to use? What is the frame diameter? Saw a post some time ago suggesting you need a problem solver (which one?)
I have a tip for avoiding hitting spokes, or slipping through at all when using a hole saw.
just wrap the hole saw with a few layers of electrical tape, about 3/8 of an inch from the cutting edge. Once the hole saw cuts through the rim, the tape will catch it before it can slip through.
Next up will be going 2x10 on the front. Manage to get hold of a crank set, so just need a front mech and shifters. Anybody here got some advice as to what mech to use? What is the frame diameter? Saw a post some time ago suggesting you need a problem solver (which one?)
Cheers
I used the problem solver direct mount for a fat bike and a cheap slx direct mount that jenson had on sale at the time. You need a bb spacer to replace the stock chain guide.
But in hindsight I can't see why a bb mounted derailleur wouldn't do the same thing for less.
Yes, that's the one I used. It was simple and straight forward.
You may have used direct mount derailleurs before but I hadn't, and made the mistake of cutting the outer housing to terminate in the last frame mount when I should've by-passed this completely and terminated it at the derailleur itself.
Nice one! Looks like your little tool works a lot better than the dremel... could not be asked to go and buy one of those, in hind sight it would have saved me a lot of time.
Stevob, I did, no way around it. Was a bit strange as it was near centre on the join and the cut-out fell out on 2 pieces. Did you have the same Tomsson?
Anyone else having trouble with the standard On-One tires not seating correctly? I must have taken them off and put them back on a handful of times but they keep having at least one spot where they are not correctly seated, leading to pretty brutal tire wobble/bobbing. I tried using lots of soapy water and pumping way up to 25 PSI and that seemed to work, but at soon as I lowered to 10 PSI the issue came back.
Does anyone who owns a Fatty have a North Shore Rack?? I'm curious if the On One fork will work with this rack. I just tried a Steel Fatback fork and it will not, the On One is a VERY similar design.
This is my first post on this forum and I would like to introduce another Fatty ready to roll into Spain
bye
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