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On One Fat Bike Frame

438K views 2K replies 291 participants last post by  qclabrat 
#1 ·

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#824 ·


If you use a small multigrip tool this is an easy job.

One jaw on the left nearside of the link shown above, and the other on the right far side, quick squeeze, and it's done.
 
#830 ·
Does anyone have any severe hops in their tires? I noticed I have it mine. Each one has it and it does not seem to be related to the tube. Ive moved the tires on the rim. Rims are true and have no hops.

Cant really feel it at low speed. But high speed it is a problem.


Thanks.
 
G
#835 ·
Does anyone have any severe hops in their tires? I noticed I have it mine. Each one has it and it does not seem to be related to the tube. Ive moved the tires on the rim. Rims are true and have no hops.

Cant really feel it at low speed. But high speed it is a problem.
hops are the main contributor but rest assured they are also out of balance more than folks would suspect. These fat tires no matter the make / model can have severe weight bias in a section.
 
#833 ·
Just changed my tubes to the Schwalbe FR and had a b!tch of a time getting the tires seated properly without hops... what worked in the end was applying some soapy water to the beads and then inflating to a high psi... voila, no more hops.

BTW, I dropped 2 lbs of weight in the process.... cheapest diet for this fatty...
 
#834 ·
The tire hops because the bead isn't centered around the rim. You have to be very vigilant in getting the tire to inflate evenly around the rim. The tire is seated off-center. This is operator error. Easy/kinda to fix. Deflate the tire, rub something slippery around the bead(Dawn dishsoap diluted a bit works), and keep the tire/rim off the ground while inflating. If still having trouble, you may need an extra pair of hands keeping the tire equal spaced on the rim while you inflate it. The problem is the tire bead falls into the large center section of the rim, and then pops up unequally onto the bead seat. Work with it, and all will be well.
 
#842 ·
After couple of rides in snow conditions I have noticed, that 2*10 gears could perhaps help my skinny legs in some situations. I if go to 2*10 gears, I would like to do it inexpensive way. There are now discounted crank options like Hussefelt 2.2 or Truvativ Blaze, which I could take away largets (42 t) ring and replace it with light alumium rock guard. These will go to bike's original bb.

So I need a front mech and a trigger. Would Shimano's 9 speed e-type mech work or is the only way to go with problem solver adapter and direct mount mech ?
 
#863 ·
I received mine yesterday from the UK (I'm in Australia). It took about 3 weeks to ships. Luckily I paid no Australian taxes, which surprised me, and as the customs documents had the cost listed as 1350 Euros instead of the US$1350 I'd paid I'm quite relieved.

I had thought that as a UK company the brakes would be right front, but they were instead US style with the front on the left. The rear was easy enough to change, but the front only just fit once I re-routed the cable a bit and bypassed the top cable mount.

The packaging was pretty poor and there were a few nicks in the paint work. The chain keepers needs to be adjusted slightly to not rub in the smallest gear. Like the bike I'm fat and slow so I plan to put a small ring and derailleur on the front.

I've only had time to for a quick ride to see that everything works, but I'm looking forward getting it onto the trails.

Tim
 
#865 ·
View attachment 750283
Got in plenty of desert riding on new years day. Some light snow, sandy washes, and super chunk rock. Only one pinch flat on the ride. I kept dropping pressures in the rough stuff and went too low up front.

Keep posting up pics of your rides please!
Do they now come with drilled rims, their HP say, non-drilled. I like the orange rimstrip looking through.

Nice bike, I can not wait until February for mine.
 
#877 ·
I will change my Fatty to 2*10 speed system with Truvativ Husselelt 32/22 or Holzfeller 32/22 cranks,
which are 9 speed specific. I will use normal Shimano SLX down pull front mech and I change lower limit screw to 30 mm long, because I am advised it works so. Which one works better in this compination 9 s or 10 s front mech ?.
 
#897 ·
I did it yesterday and it works very well. :thumbsup:

I did 25 km today, no problem. The cranks and derailleurs 9 or 10 speeds are not really different. The size of the teeth and the inside width of the chain are exactly the same in 9 and 10 speed, only the external width of the chain changes, but very few.
 
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