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On One Fat Bike Frame

438K views 2K replies 291 participants last post by  qclabrat 
#1 ·

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#734 ·
Is on-one answering to your mails?

They've send me a mail about my bike build a week ago, they had to ship my bike yesterday, but no more mail since that. And they don't answer to my mail anymore from a week (in the last mail they said that if they've some problems or delay they will contact me).

So, you know if there is some problems or delays?
 
#743 ·
Dear god. I didnt realize the bike would come with the brakes rigged UK style (left is rear brake). Of course i ordered before i knew they would even be offered for sale via the US outfit.


I hope the hoses are the right length to swap between levers w/o a bleed.
 
#761 ·
I ride motor bikes, and bicycles, and I still like my bicycles with the front on the left. but a friend of mine who was left handed liked the bicycle set up with the rear brake on the left. It is all a matter of personal preference.
I don't understand what it has to do with what side of the road you drive on though. In a right hand drive car the gas pedal is still on the right side of the brake, right?
 
#763 ·
...I don't understand what it has to do with what side of the road you drive on though. In a right hand drive car the gas pedal is still on the right side of the brake, right?
I was once told - but can't remember where - that the front brake is on the right in the UK so that you can signal to turn left and brake at the same time. In countries where you drive on the right the front brake is on the left so that you can turn right signalling and braking at the same time.

This makes sense in that it's for the 'easy' turn, i.e. not turning across traffic.
 
#769 ·
If you want a granny ring, go for the Truvativ Holzfeller 1.1 Trials Chainset. Chain Reaction sells them and that'll give you a 22t with a bashguard. That's a real granny ring, so you can rock crawl as much as you like. Don't expect high sped though, unless gravity is doing its part to help.
 
#772 ·
Yep cheaper, but they're 2 & 3 chainring cranks. I chose the 1.1 because it's a single chainring like the original. Plus it has a proper (metal) bash-guard for those slightly too adventurous treks.

Great if you want to add a front derailer and run double or triple cranks though.
 
#773 · (Edited)
On the cranks topic, it's a pity most manufacturers seem to stick with even number teeth. Odd numbers have much better wear characteristics. They share the load between inner and outer chain links on each rotation. Obviously the XX1 can't do this, but that's another topic all-together (like this one should be actually).

(Edit: Of course a half link combats this too)
 
#774 ·
On the cranks topic, it's a pity most manufacturers seem to stick with even number teeth. Odd numbers have much better wear characteristics. They share the load between inner and outer chain links on each rotation. Obviously the XX1 can't do this, but that's another topic all-together (like this one should be actually).

(Edit: Of course a half link combats this too)
I don't understand. unless all your cogs are even, won't this cancel out on the odd cogs?
 
#775 ·
I'm actually talking about wear of the sides of the teeth. If you wipe down your chainring, then go for a ride, you'll see each 2nd tooth gets chain lube on it from the inner links. Remember this is only the case if you have an even number of teeth on the chainring, AND you can't change up or down gears up front. Basically if there's lube on something, it's been in contact with another part.
 
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