On One Fat Bike Frame

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  • 01-25-2016
    kryten
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Got2Bike View Post
    Attachment 1014360
    For anyone considering the Fatty, get one. It's the most fun bike I've ever owned. Mine is a V2, which I have slightly customized. (Built from the ground up) My next step will be to build a 27.5+ wheelset. I have a spare wheelset, and will use hubs to lace them on a set of WTB Scraper rims. Has anyone build it as a 27.5+?

    Did you ever end up finishing this 27.5+ project on the Fatty?
  • 01-29-2016
    Tunalic
    I finally got some 4.8" Jumbo Jims Lite Skins. Fit fine on the original rims & running 1x10 with tubes for now. At least 1/4" clearance on the chain.


  • 01-31-2016
    HypnoT0AD
    For those of you running a 1x10 setup, whats the largest ring you've used on the fron with a good chainline?

    Right now I'm running a 30t on the front and the chain is straight when on the 6th cog on the back, and I want to try an oval ring but I don't want it to foul the frame.
  • 01-31-2016
    Estuche
    Double post
  • 01-31-2016
    Estuche
    1 Attachment(s)
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by deuxdiesel View Post
    Not a chance. The Knard 3.0 on a R/H hits the chainstay bridge. No amount of trimming will get it to fit.

    Speaking of clearance, can someone please measure the chainstays' width for the fatty v2 frame? I am trying to measure crank arm clearance. Anyone??Attachment 1046711
  • 01-31-2016
    Ol' Bromy
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Estuche View Post
    Speaking of clearance, can someone please measure the chainstays' width for the fatty v2 frame? I am trying to measure crank arm clearance. Anyone??Attachment 1046711

    5-7/8" on my V2 from outside to outside of chainstays measured at the spot on the stays where horizontal crank arms rest. Good luck on your build!
  • 01-31-2016
    Estuche
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Ol' Bromy View Post
    5-7/8" on my V2 from outside to outside of chainstays measured at the spot on the stays where horizontal crank arms rest. Good luck on your build!

    Thanks, much appreciated!!
  • 02-01-2016
    blowery
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Tunalic View Post
    I finally got some 4.8" Jumbo Jims Lite Skins. Fit fine on the original rims & running 1x10 with tubes for now. At least 1/4" clearance on the chain.



    Awesome, looking at these for my next tires. Glad to see they fit the rear.
  • 02-01-2016
    Tunalic
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by blowery View Post
    Awesome, looking at these for my next tires. Glad to see they fit the rear.

    I had a blast Saturday doing 22 miles on my beaches. I think I will try tubeless out soon.
  • 02-01-2016
    kryten
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Tunalic View Post
    I finally got some 4.8" Jumbo Jims Lite Skins. Fit fine on the original rims & running 1x10 with tubes for now. At least 1/4" clearance on the chain.



    What pedals are those?

    Good info. I'm still on 2x10, but looks like once I go 1x I should be able to fit Flowbeist/Dunderbeist or VanHelgas or Dillinger 5's without issues.
  • 02-01-2016
    Tunalic
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by kryten View Post
    What pedals are those?

    Good info. I'm still on 2x10, but looks like once I go 1x I should be able to fit Flowbeist/Dunderbeist or VanHelgas or Dillinger 5's without issues.

    Wellgo MG-1s
  • 02-01-2016
    kryten
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Tunalic View Post
    Wellgo MG-1s

    Thanks, they seem like a perfect color match.
  • 02-01-2016
    kryten
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by MTBLoCo29 View Post

    What size frame and what size frame bag is that?

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Tunalic View Post
    Iberia medium for me.


    On 18" frame?
  • 02-01-2016
    Tunalic
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by kryten View Post
    What size frame and what size frame bag is that?



    On 18" frame?

    Yes on the frame & medium on the bag.
  • 02-01-2016
    kryten
    Hmm...I'm thinking I may even be able to fit large Ibera bag on 18" frame? Trying to get this thing ready for bike packing this summer on the cheap.
  • 02-25-2016
    2dopler
    1 Attachment(s)
    Pic of the Fatty on the snow

    Custom flat black paint. Got the decals off eBay
  • 02-25-2016
    MTBLoCo29
    1 Attachment(s)
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by kryten View Post
    Hmm...I'm thinking I may even be able to fit large Ibera bag on 18" frame? Trying to get this thing ready for bike packing this summer on the cheap.

    It's a tight fit. The silver piping on the perimeter rubbed down to the metal on the downtube just above the BB. The bag sits right on the downtube, so I would put some protective tape down before installing. Keep soft stuff like spare tubes in the bottom, not hard/heavy stuff like tools or pumps or you can hear them hitting the frame as you bounce down the trail. Attachment 1052364
  • 02-25-2016
    blowery
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by 2dopler View Post
    Pic of the Fatty on the snow

    Custom flat black paint. Got the decals off eBay

    Looks great, what prep work did you do? Light scuffing or full sanding? Thinking of changing mine up.
  • 02-25-2016
    dbhammercycle
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by 2dopler View Post
    Pic of the Fatty on the snow

    Custom flat black paint. Got the decals off eBay

    Nice. thumbs up!
  • 02-25-2016
    Ol' Bromy
    4 Attachment(s)
    Riding my Fatty in Fort Bragg/Mendocino this week.
  • 02-25-2016
    MTBLoCo29
    1 Attachment(s)
    So this is happening. Waiting on a new crown race. Also have a new hub coming for the 29+ wheel.
    Attachment 1052403
  • 02-25-2016
    kryten
    Just double checking, but looks like these won't fit the fatty without a different front hub?

    Fattie Slims | Framed Bikes

    On One's 29er wheelset is almost double the price and out of my budget for this 'commuter' project...
  • 02-25-2016
    MTBLoCo29
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by kryten View Post
    Just double checking, but looks like these won't fit the fatty without a different front hub?

    Fattie Slims | Framed Bikes

    On One's 29er wheelset is almost double the price and out of my budget for this 'commuter' project...

    Not in stock form. On-One forks use rear disk spacing, Framed uses front disk spacing. You can grind out the caliper mount to so it lines up with the rotor. Ive also seen folks offset the axle with different width nuts, then re-dish the wheel.
  • 02-25-2016
    kryten
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by MTBLoCo29 View Post
    Not in stock form. On-One forks use rear disk spacing, Framed uses front disk spacing. You can grind out the caliper mount to so it lines up with the rotor. Ive also seen folks offset the axle with different width nuts, then re-dish the wheel.

    Thanks, that's what I thought, just want something plug-n-play and inexpensive. I guess there are not many other options in that price range...
  • 02-25-2016
    MTBLoCo29
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by kryten View Post
    Thanks, that's what I thought, just was something plug-n-play and inexpensive. I guess there are not many other options in that price range...

    For what it's worth, you really get what you pay for with the Framed wheels. Hubs aren't great, rims are heavy and narrow, and the tires and tubes are crap. I rebuilt mine with some Velocity Blunt 35s and put on some 3" tires and new tubes. Now I'm relacing a new front hub to go with the new fork I got (thru-axle compatible). If I hadn't gotten them free when I bought a Framed MN, I would have been better off building from scratch.
  • 02-25-2016
    kryten
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by MTBLoCo29 View Post
    For what it's worth, you really get what you pay for with the Framed wheels. Hubs aren't great, rims are heavy and narrow, and the tires and tubes are crap. I rebuilt mine with some Velocity Blunt 35s and put on some 3" tires and new tubes. Now I'm relacing a new front hub to go with the new fork I got (thru-axle compatible). If I hadn't gotten them free when I bought a Framed MN, I would have been better off building from scratch.

    Those Velocity are 27.5 with 3" tires?

    Do you think there is realistically a chance to build a 29er wheelset for commuting, that is better quality than Framed Fattie Slims, that still fits a certain budget? (Cheaper than On One Fat Not Fat wheel set) I obviously need to do some research. Thanks...
  • 02-25-2016
    MTBLoCo29
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by kryten View Post
    Those Velocity are 27.5 with 3" tires?

    Do you think there is realistically a chance to build a 29er wheelset for commuting, that is better quality than Framed Fattie Slims, that still fits a certain budget? (Cheaper than On One Fat Not Fat wheel set) I obviously need to do some research. Thanks...

    Mine are 29ers. Tight squeeze with the 3", but plenty of room with 2.2s. If you are just looking to build some commuter wheels, look for some used fatbike hubs, lots of folks are ditching the 135/170 for wider hubs to run Blutos or 5" tires. Any 170 will work out back. For the front, you can use Surly hubs, the Salsa Enabler, or any standard MTB rear, though a SS specific would be best. You can get new 29er rims pretty cheap too, as the industry is pushing the wide rims. Just look around for closeouts on old models. Here's an example. MTB Rims | Chain Reaction Cycles
  • 02-25-2016
    Tunalic
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by 2dopler View Post
    Pic of the Fatty on the snow

    Custom flat black paint. Got the decals off eBay

    Nice! for a minute I thought '15 Farley 6;)
  • 02-26-2016
    2dopler
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by blowery View Post
    Looks great, what prep work did you do? Light scuffing or full sanding? Thinking of changing mine up.

    Professionally blasted and repainted. Never had much luck painting on my own
  • 02-26-2016
    2dopler
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Tunalic View Post
    Nice! for a minute I thought '15 Farley 6;)

    You would not be the first. I've had people staring at it up close and assuming it's the Farley 😄
  • 02-26-2016
    kryten
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by MTBLoCo29 View Post
    Mine are 29ers. Tight squeeze with the 3", but plenty of room with 2.2s. If you are just looking to build some commuter wheels, look for some used fatbike hubs, lots of folks are ditching the 135/170 for wider hubs to run Blutos or 5" tires. Any 170 will work out back. For the front, you can use Surly hubs, the Salsa Enabler, or any standard MTB rear, though a SS specific would be best. You can get new 29er rims pretty cheap too, as the industry is pushing the wide rims. Just look around for closeouts on old models. Here's an example. MTB Rims | Chain Reaction Cycles

    I will be watching for some used parts for sure. So far I found 9:Zero:7 rear spaced front hub on sale for $36 and Salsa Mukluk 3 rear hub for $115 as cheapest options. Also considering WTB i23 rims for about $26 each, but with spokes and wheel assembly it is in the same price range as On One wheelset.
  • 03-03-2016
    kryten
    Another question regarding the carbon fatty fork. Are the logos removable decals or are they under the clearcoat?
  • 03-03-2016
    MTBLoCo29
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by kryten View Post
    Another question regarding the carbon fatty fork. Are the logos removable decals or are they under the clearcoat?

    Not sure, I haven't tried. I will say that nothing has peeled/scratched off after 2 years. As for the wheels, any 29er rear wheel should work on the front if you don't want to build a new one. Might look a little funny, but then you'd only have to build one wheel... I build my own wheels, so I didn't factor that into the cost.
  • 03-03-2016
    SundayRiverRider
    Hey guys, I'm building up a new V2 fatty frame. Swapping a bunch of stuff over from my old fat bike. I have 2 questions and I appreciate the help:

    1) Need a new rear wheel. What size hub works on new frame? Might end up buying new wheelset.

    2) Have a new Bluto 120mm. Decent headset that works with frame and fork? Looks like they stopped making Mixie Smooth tapered piece.

    I think have everything else sorted, might need some new cranks too. Thinking Race Face, been happy with mine on other bikes. I just have to make sure to get the right spacing correct?

    Thanks!
  • 03-03-2016
    dbhammercycle
    170 rear. I don't remember if the headtube is tapered, but you can get a bottom headset cup to fit the Bluto. I'd personally look at Cane Creek, probably the 40. You may also want to lower the travel to 100mm.

    On-One Fatty V2 Frame | Planet X
  • 03-03-2016
    MTBLoCo29
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by dbhammercycle View Post
    170 rear. I don't remember if the headtube is tapered, but you can get a bottom headset cup to fit the Bluto. I'd personally look at Cane Creek, probably the 40. You may also want to lower the travel to 100mm.

    On-One Fatty V2 Frame | Planet X

    170 QR rear wheel. For headsets, Chris King is worth the extra $$ as it will last forever. If you are keeping costs down, Cane Creek 40 is solid. I'm running Turbines with a 30T NW on the inside of the spider. It's close to the chainstay, but clearance is fine. No tire rub in low with Nates on Mulefut 80s.
  • 03-03-2016
    MTBLoCo29
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by SundayRiverRider View Post
    Hey guys, I'm building up a new V2 fatty frame. Swapping a bunch of stuff over from my old fat bike. I have 2 questions and I appreciate the help:

    1) Need a new rear wheel. What size hub works on new frame? Might end up buying new wheelset.

    2) Have a new Bluto 120mm. Decent headset that works with frame and fork? Looks like they stopped making Mixie Smooth tapered piece.

    I think have everything else sorted, might need some new cranks too. Thinking Race Face, been happy with mine on other bikes. I just have to make sure to get the right spacing correct?

    Thanks!

    Responded to the wrong poster, see my reply to dbhammercycle
  • 03-03-2016
    SundayRiverRider
    Thanks guys.


    I might got 1x on this too. I like it on my 29er. We'll see.

    Why lower the fork to 100 from 120? I thought it was designed to handle 120? Did you find 100 just worked better?
  • 03-03-2016
    MTBLoCo29
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Stevob View Post
    Yes, I've seen that site. Thanks anyway Shaggy.

    If I had to guess from that pic, it looks like 32:17 (using a half link), just a little tall for my liking. There's always other options for tensioning a ss anyway.

    Did you ever figure this out? I run 32:18 on my 29er SS, was thinking a 17 cog would work nicely with the 30t on the Fatty.
  • 03-03-2016
    JoeG
    Quote:

    Another question regarding the carbon fatty fork. Are the logos removable decals or are they under the clearcoat?
    I have the white carbon fork and the decals are under the clearcoat.

    Also, the Fatty forks are set up for rear disc spacing. Most forks/hubs now use front hub spacing.
  • 03-03-2016
    dbhammercycle
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by SundayRiverRider View Post
    Thanks guys.


    I might got 1x on this too. I like it on my 29er. We'll see.

    Why lower the fork to 100 from 120? I thought it was designed to handle 120? Did you find 100 just worked better?

    I very well may be wrong, but I don't think the Fatty was designed for that much travel. The Fatty Trail was designed around the 120 Bluto. I'm not saying you can't, there are certainly lots of examples of non suspension corrected frames that have sus forks slapped on 'em and I've certainly seen a few pics of the Fatties with sus forks. I think the a-c of the Fatty fork is 470mm and the 120 Bluto is 531. I just think you should be aware of the change to the head tube angle, etc.
  • 03-03-2016
    MTBLoCo29
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by SundayRiverRider View Post
    Thanks guys.


    I might got 1x on this too. I like it on my 29er. We'll see.

    Why lower the fork to 100 from 120? I thought it was designed to handle 120? Did you find 100 just worked better?

    Been very happy with 30t x 11-36 cassette. Just got a Carver Trans-fat with 506mm A2C, I'll post a ride report vs. the carbon if my new crown race ever shows up.
  • 03-03-2016
    kryten
    Thanks, yes, the rear spacing front hub is a bit of a PITA these days.

    I'm in a bit of a dilemma as to what do do with my Fatty. I'm just shy of 5'10" or just a hair under and on my 16" frame I find myself slightly cramped. This is with 60mm stem and 12mm setback Twelfty seatpost. I feel like I would be happier on an 18", but unsure if I should get 18" frame, swap over everything and try to sell 16" V1 frame. Or just get rid of the Fatty and get a different bike. Rear spaced front hub, no through axles and 170mm rear end are feeling a little outdated to be spending a lot of cash on imo.

    I would also like to get a 29er wheelset for commuting this spring/summer and would not mind the carbon fork for looks and weight savings. (This thing is over 35lbs now). On top of that I would like to try few bikepacking trips this summer and the bike can serve as a loaner for friends couple times a year, so could have a few other uses apart from main snow/winter duty. I do have a Giant Trance for summer already. For bikepacking, I would think (especially the 18") can fit a decent size frame bag unlike my Trance.

    Trance - summer rig
    Fatty - winter rig mainly, bikepacking?, commuter?, loaner for friends, occasional summer use for fun

    Just to put in perspective, mine is full XT 2x10 build with e13 crank, BB7's, studded Dillingers 4s, and also Floaters.

    I guess I could just get 18" V2 frame and try to sell 16" V1 if there even is market for one? I could live with skipping on the carbon fork to save some cash there. Still another $500 CAD for skinny wheelset with tires and $400+CAD for frame shipped minus whatever I get for the V1. Just have hard time seeing it as cost effective. My head is spinning from all this by now, and I'm probably not thinking clear about this anymore.

    Do I just sell and get/build something else? Thanks for any advice.
  • 03-03-2016
    MTBLoCo29
    Tough call. At 5'10", I really like the way my 18" fits and rides. I don't need 5" tires, so I'm happy having the narrower q-factor of the 170 rear. Not much size difference in the front triangle between the 16 and 18. The two things that are making me look at a Soma Sandworm are a bigger front triangle for more waterbottle placement/bigger frame pack, and the sliding dropouts to run SS.
    It does have rack mounts and the ability to run belt drive, though I don't see myself ever using them. The geo is very close to the Fatty, more trail oriented. Also has more room for the 29+ tires.
  • 03-03-2016
    dbhammercycle
    @Kryten

    You could get the Fatback import hubset for cheap and gain 9mm and 10mm thru axles. Also, you could put on a longer stem, unless you feel you are already over the front wheel enough or if you feel the reach is still too short. 'Tis the season for upgrades for a good pricepoint or a discounted end of season new fatty.

    That's not much help, but really the choice is yours. Perhaps the thing to do is go to your LBS and test ride other frames to get an idea of what you want for top tube length.
  • 03-03-2016
    kryten
    I will look into the Soma. I was looking at the orange '16 RSD Mayor frameset with carbon fork to build instead.

    I would prefer not to go with longer than 60mm stem. One option I thought of was getting a Truvativ 25mm offset seatpost for under $50 for now, but I don't think I want to be on a wrong sized bike long term.

    I did notice being a bit cramped after I cut my handlebar from 785 to 760 which is what I run on my trail bike as well.

    The Fatback hubset I found for $125 is front disc spaced so it wont fit in either fatty fork afaik.
  • 03-03-2016
    dbhammercycle
    The Soma has sooo many things going for it, but the tall stand over height (IMO) killed it for me. I'd rather see 30.5in than 31.5in for the 17.5in lrg size.
  • 03-03-2016
    MTBLoCo29
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by dbhammercycle View Post
    The Soma has sooo many things going for it, but the tall stand over height (IMO) killed it for me. I'd rather see 30.5in than 31.5in for the 17.5in lrg size.

    About 2lbs heavier than the Fatty as well....
  • 03-04-2016
    Stevob
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by MTBLoCo29 View Post
    Did you ever figure this out? I run 32:18 on my 29er SS, was thinking a 17 cog would work nicely with the 30t on the Fatty.

    Never tried, however, I've taken my gears off and put them on my SS for now, so the Fatty is just begging for a SS conversion.
  • 03-04-2016
    MTBLoCo29
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Stevob View Post
    Never tried, however, I've taken my gears off and put them on my SS for now, so the Fatty is just begging for a SS conversion.

    I did the opposite. I had put a 1x10 on my Kona Unit for a while, but transferred it when I got the Fatty and made the Kona SS again. Wanted to try SS with the fat or 29+.
  • 03-04-2016
    2dopler
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by kryten View Post
    Thanks, yes, the rear spacing front hub is a bit of a PITA these days.

    I'm in a bit of a dilemma as to what do do with my Fatty. I'm just shy of 5'10" or just a hair under and on my 16" frame I find myself slightly cramped. This is with 60mm stem and 12mm setback Twelfty seatpost. I feel like I would be happier on an 18", but unsure if I should get 18" frame, swap over everything and try to sell 16" V1 frame. Or just get rid of the Fatty and get a different bike. Rear spaced front hub, no through axles and 170mm rear end are feeling a little outdated to be spending a lot of cash on imo.

    I would also like to get a 29er wheelset for commuting this spring/summer and would not mind the carbon fork for looks and weight savings. (This thing is over 35lbs now). On top of that I would like to try few bikepacking trips this summer and the bike can serve as a loaner for friends couple times a year, so could have a few other uses apart from main snow/winter duty. I do have a Giant Trance for summer already. For bikepacking, I would think (especially the 18") can fit a decent size frame bag unlike my Trance.

    Trance - summer rig
    Fatty - winter rig mainly, bikepacking?, commuter?, loaner for friends, occasional summer use for fun

    Just to put in perspective, mine is full XT 2x10 build with e13 crank, BB7's, studded Dillingers 4s, and also Floaters.

    I guess I could just get 18" V2 frame and try to sell 16" V1 if there even is market for one? I could live with skipping on the carbon fork to save some cash there. Still another $500 CAD for skinny wheelset with tires and $400+CAD for frame shipped minus whatever I get for the V1. Just have hard time seeing it as cost effective. My head is spinning from all this by now, and I'm probably not thinking clear about this anymore.

    Do I just sell and get/build something else? Thanks for any advice.

    I'm just under 5'10 on an 18" with a 70mm stem and straight post and feel like it fits well. I think I would be cramped on a 16". The 18" would likely be a better fir for you
  • 03-15-2016
    blowery
    1 Attachment(s)
    This thread needs more pictures..
    Still trying to decide which tires to go too.

    Attachment 1056994
  • 03-15-2016
    MTBLoCo29
    3 Attachment(s)
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by blowery View Post
    This thread needs more pictures..
    Still trying to decide which tires to go too.

    Attachment 1056994

    Here's some new pics. Just rebuilt the 29+ front wheel with a thru-axle compatible hub to go with the new fork. Trusty Evo456 hanging around in the the background.

    Attachment 1057009Attachment 1057010
    Attachment 1057008
  • 03-15-2016
    kryten
    1 Attachment(s)
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by blowery View Post
    This thread needs more pictures..
    Still trying to decide which tires to go too.

    Attachment 1056994

    Attachment 1057017





  • 03-15-2016
    2dopler
    1 Attachment(s)
    Attachment 1057118Attachment 1057118
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by kryten View Post

    Agreed
  • 03-15-2016
    2dopler
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by MTBLoCo29 View Post
    Here's some new pics. Just rebuilt the 29+ front wheel with a thru-axle compatible hub to go with the new fork. Trusty Evo456 hanging around in the the background.

    Attachment 1057009Attachment 1057010
    Attachment 1057008

    Am I reading that right? 29+ on a On*One Fatty? I thought that had been tried and failed...if that fits then I'm looking at building that up for mine

    Can you post a couple rear clearance pics with the 29+ wheels?
  • 03-16-2016
    MTBLoCo29
    1 Attachment(s)
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by 2dopler View Post
    Am I reading that right? 29+ on a On*One Fatty? I thought that had been tried and failed...if that fits then I'm looking at building that up for mine

    Can you post a couple rear clearance pics with the 29+ wheels?

    Only place it's tight is the chainstay bridge. Tons of room everywhere else. I put a little frame protector there to save wear and tear. Running Innova Vidars on Blunt 35 rims. Currently with tubes, at 12-15psi.

    Attachment 1057137
  • 03-18-2016
    pharcyde
    2 Attachment(s)
    29+ fits tight but can be done. Under the On One carbon forks no probs at all. As mentioned, the chain stay bridge does get close.

    My new setup is Nextie Jungle Fox 52mm carbon rims and Maxxis Chronicle 3.0.
  • 03-18-2016
    HOSSinNH
    That Nextie 29+ setup looks awesome!
  • 03-18-2016
    blowery
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by pharcyde View Post
    29+ fits tight but can be done. Under the On One carbon forks no probs at all. As mentioned, the chain stay bridge does get close.

    My new setup is Nextie Jungle Fox 52mm carbon rims and Maxxis Chronicle 3.0.

    That looks great!

    So, I'm not up to the plus sizes, but why the 29+?
    Is it because it's a faster rolling almost fat tire? Or is there some other reason I don't know about. Assuming it gives most of the benefits of fast without the downfalls, plus faster?
  • 03-18-2016
    MTBLoCo29
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by blowery View Post
    That looks great!

    So, I'm not up to the plus sizes, but why the 29+?
    Is it because it's a faster rolling almost fat tire? Or is there some other reason I don't know about. Assuming it gives most of the benefits of fast without the downfalls, plus faster?

    Taller tire for better rollover combined with 12-15psi really smooths out tech trails with rocks and roots. Also a bigger contact patch for better traciton when compared to a regular 29er. Not as much weight or rolling resistance than a full fat.
  • 03-19-2016
    pharcyde
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by MTBLoCo29 View Post
    Taller tire for better rollover combined with 12-15psi really smooths out tech trails with rocks and roots. Also a bigger contact patch for better traciton when compared to a regular 29er. Not as much weight or rolling resistance than a full fat.

    Nailed it!
  • 03-29-2016
    Eatdabike
    1 Attachment(s)
    27.5 plus
    But why are people choosing 29+ over 27.5+?
    Isn't 29+ putting the BB a bit high?
    The Fatty was designed around 26x4 tires. So according to the attached chart 27.5+ is the same diameter as 26x4 and should fit the Fatty better than 29+, right?
    Anyone having experience with 27.5+ on the Fatty?
    Attachment 1060385
  • 03-30-2016
    MTBLoCo29
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Eatdabike View Post
    But why are people choosing 29+ over 27.5+?
    Isn't 29+ putting the BB a bit high?
    The Fatty was designed around 26x4 tires. So according to the attached chart 27.5+ is the same diameter as 26x4 and should fit the Fatty better than 29+, right?
    Anyone having experience with 27.5+ on the Fatty?
    Attachment 1060385

    Honestly, it's because I already had the wheels when I bought my Fatty frame. It does raise the BB a little, but I haven't had any ill effects. If anything, I notice more pedal strikes when I go back to the fat wheels. I do like the rollover/ approach angle of the larger diameter tires. Of course all bets are off now that I put a suspension fork on the front. Having to adjust to a taller/slacker front end with either wheelset.
  • 04-02-2016
    Ol' Bromy
    3 Attachment(s)
    MTB Tools Mtn Bike 12mm x 170mm thru Axle to Standard 5mm QR Wheel Adapter | eBay

    Found this thru-axle on eBay for my Fatty wheel set. Just installed it and it fits perfectly. I've had my fatty for 2 months and I've already needed a warranty replacement freehub body. The drive side end cap worked loose allowing the freehub body to move enough for the ratchet ring inside the hub body to chew up the alloy freehub body. I'd had the same thing happen to my SunRingle hub that I have on my Inbred and they sent me this exact same type of thru-bolt. Haven't had any problems with my SunRingle wheels in the 2 years since. Very stoked that I found this.
  • 04-15-2016
    kryten
    Is there any rear rack that can be mounted to this frame since the frame does not have any eyelets?

    Will something like this be best option if any?

    Phat Sherpa Rear 170mm Hub-Mounted 5mm Quick Release with Clamps - Old Man Mountain specializes in Racks designed to work on all bikes.



    Since as usual I'm on a budget, looking at the Axiom Fatliner or Blackburn Outpost.

    Fatliner - Streamliner - Racks - Products - Axiom Cycling Gear

    OUTPOST FAT BIKE RACK
  • 04-30-2016
    Wombat
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Ol' Bromy View Post
    MTB Tools Mtn Bike 12mm x 170mm thru Axle to Standard 5mm QR Wheel Adapter | eBay

    Found this thru-axle on eBay for my Fatty wheel set. Just installed it and it fits perfectly. I've had my fatty for 2 months and I've already needed a warranty replacement freehub body. The drive side end cap worked loose allowing the freehub body to move enough for the ratchet ring inside the hub body to chew up the alloy freehub body. I'd had the same thing happen to my SunRingle hub that I have on my Inbred and they sent me this exact same type of thru-bolt. Haven't had any problems with my SunRingle wheels in the 2 years since. Very stoked that I found this.

    Ol Bromy, can you explain this a bit more.

    Do you have the standard hub and you replaced its 10 mm axle with the 12 mm through axle from MTB tools? What I don't understand is how the 12 mm axle fits in the existing bearings that are made for a 10 mm axle. Did you also replace the end caps as I assume the originals are built for a 100 mm axle.

    Thanks

    Tim
  • 04-30-2016
    Ol' Bromy
    Hey Tim,

    I do have the stock V2 On One rear hub. My wheelset came with standard QR's and different, replaceable end caps, 12mm for the rear which I used in this case and 15mm for the front. The end caps that are used if I stick with the quick releases are 10mm at the end where they fit into the drop-outs. If those are removed, the opening in the hub axle is 12mm wide. This thru-axle that I found on eBay is 12mm X 170mm and just slides right thru the hub axle perfectly. As you can see in my pics above, it steps down to 10mm to fit the drop-outs just as the QR caps did. This thru axle that I found and the end caps that came with my wheels was all that was needed to do this. Well that and a little blue loctite on the drive side 12mm threaded cap to keep everything nice and tight. So far it has been great. Hope this helps.

    Jason
  • 04-30-2016
    Wombat
    Thanks Jason, That clears it up.

    Tim
  • 05-29-2016
    Ol' Bromy
    2 Attachment(s)
    Finally got around to drilling my Fatty wheels. Shaved somewhere in the range of 3/4 lb off of her.
  • 05-29-2016
    dbhammercycle
    Is the frame in the 2nd pic to the left of the fatty the raw steel the 45650b?

    Cool.
  • 05-29-2016
    Ol' Bromy
    2 Attachment(s)
    The bike on the far left is my Inbred 29er with the horizontal dropouts. I've had her set up as a rigid single speed, rigid geared and now she's got a 1x10 and a squishy fork on her. Still love that bike and ride it all the time. Definitely does look like raw steel in that one pic though
  • 05-29-2016
    dbhammercycle
    Gotcha, love the 2nd pic with the mud wiped away. Cheers!
  • 05-29-2016
    Ol' Bromy
    Thanks man. Cheers
  • 06-02-2016
    kryten
    I'm having the same issue with my rear wheel coming loose in the dropouts repeatedly after a few rides. I have the QR tight and the wheel seated in the droputs correctly, but after a few rides it will slip down a little on the drive side making the wheel not aligned correctly with the side knobs closer to the chainstay on the non drive side. Is this a QR issue or user error?
  • 06-02-2016
    Ol' Bromy
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by kryten View Post
    I'm having the same issue with my rear wheel coming loose in the dropouts repeatedly after a few rides. I have the QR tight and the wheel seated in the droputs correctly, but after a few rides it will slip down a little on the drive side making the wheel not aligned correctly with the side knobs closer to the chainstay on the non drive side. Is this a QR issue or user error?

    V2 wheels? I'd remove the rear wheel, pull off the cassette and check that the threaded cap that holds the freehub body on is tight. When you have the cap off, put a drop of blue thread lock on the threads to keep it tight.
  • 06-02-2016
    Wombat
    I had the same problem with my front wheel and fixed as described here: http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/one...on-914639.html

    Tim
  • 06-03-2016
    zozzo69
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by kryten View Post
    I'm having the same issue with my rear wheel coming loose in the dropouts repeatedly after a few rides. I have the QR tight and the wheel seated in the droputs correctly, but after a few rides it will slip down a little on the drive side making the wheel not aligned correctly with the side knobs closer to the chainstay on the non drive side. Is this a QR issue or user error?

    Classical issue with On-One QR which are a low quality aluminium. I had the same. Easily fixed by replacing the QR by a Hope QR which hold the Wheel much better ;-)
  • 06-03-2016
    Ol' Bromy
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by zozzo69 View Post
    Classical issue with On-One QR which are a low quality aluminium. I had the same. Easily fixed by replacing the QR by a Hope QR which hold the Wheel much better ;-)

    I replaced my stock QRs with the hope guys too after on time I noticed my rear wheel had worked loose mid ride and I had to really man handle the stock QR to tighten it enough to not feel any play and damn near crushed the QR nylon bushing in the process. When I got home I discovered that drive-side threaded cap had worked loose. The hope skewers are much nicer and will likely hold the wheel much better as well.
  • 06-06-2016
    kryten
    Thanks for all suggestions, I will have to take off the cassette and inspect although not 100% sure what I'm looking for, but may just get it once I'm looking at it. Otherwise I may just get a Hope skewer at some point.
  • 06-06-2016
    Ol' Bromy
    1 Attachment(s)
    The black cap at the end of the freehub body is threaded, at least on my V2 wheels. It can be removed with a cone wrench. The non-drive side just pops off. Just make sure the drive side cap is nice and tight, then pop a new Hope skewer in there.
  • 06-06-2016
    kryten
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Ol' Bromy View Post
    The black cap at the end of the freehub body is threaded, at least on my V2 wheels. It can be removed with a cone wrench. The non-drive side just pops off. Just make sure the drive side cap is nice and tight, then pop a new Hope skewer in there.

    Awesome, thanks. Now I know exactly what to check. Will order a new Hope skewer anyway. I have V1 frame and wheels.
  • 07-02-2016
    mikedeber
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Eatdabike View Post
    Anyone having experience with 27.5+ on the Fatty?

    I've been on 27+ since last July and am diggin it. I would have gone 29+ but didn't want to shell out a bunch of money only to find out that I couldn't fit a rear wheel in there.







    in fat mode on the dunes
  • 11-10-2016
    blowery
    So Bontrager Barbegazi won't fit on the rear on these bikes. Thought it might be small enough, smaller than Lou, but rubs on chain stay and chain on 1x. Might be able to space chain out, but not going to get past the rub.

    anyone interested in a brand new 4.7 Barbegazi? lol
  • 11-29-2016
    trailwerks
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by 2dopler View Post
    Pic of the Fatty on the snow

    Custom flat black paint. Got the decals off eBay

    Picture Rock? Love it! Do you have a link to the graphics?
  • 11-29-2016
    2dopler
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by trailwerks View Post
    Picture Rock? Love it! Do you have a link to the graphics?

    Search on-one decals (need the dash) on e-bay and check under international sellers. There are a few different styles

    Post pics if you customize
  • 11-29-2016
    2dopler
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by blowery View Post
    Looks great, what prep work did you do? Light scuffing or full sanding? Thinking of changing mine up.

    Just saw this. I bought the bike already painted black but added the decals. Original owner had it painted professionally with a run of bikes from a framebuilder in the area
  • 11-29-2016
    trailwerks
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by 2dopler View Post
    Just saw this. I bought the bike already painted black but added the decals. Original owner had it painted professionally with a run of bikes from a framebuilder in the area

    Awesome thank you.
  • 12-09-2016
    boomforeal
    1 Attachment(s)
    posting up my newly built fatty. i bought a fatty v2 frame and a fatty trail complete, and swapped the parts from the latter on to the former

    Attachment 1109409

    shortened the fork. headset took some figuring and frame prepping but pressed in fine. tried setting the wheels up tubeless but wasn't really impressed with the bead-seat i was able to get and didn't really feel like blowing stans all over the trails so i scrapped it. everything else swapped over fine

    relevant geo numbers came out to 66.5* hta, 74* sta, 12.8" bb height. it's a bit short in the reach department but not too bad

    only a couple of trail rides so far but it's a hoot. lots of traction on the ups and a freight train on the downs. my weekday rides involve getting dropped off at the trails and having to ride 15km/10mile home afterwards - more a slog than on my 29er HT, but not nearly as bad as i was expecting :)

    first snow ride is tonight
  • 12-09-2016
    trailwerks
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by boomforeal View Post
    posting up my newly built fatty. i bought a fatty v2 frame and a fatty trail complete, and swapped the parts from the latter on to the former

    Attachment 1109409

    shortened the fork. headset took some figuring and frame prepping but pressed in fine. tried setting the wheels up tubeless but wasn't really impressed with the bead-seat i was able to get and didn't really feel like blowing stans all over the trails so i scrapped it. everything else swapped over fine

    relevant geo numbers came out to 66.5* hta, 74* sta, 12.8" bb height. it's a bit short in the reach department but not too bad

    only a couple of trail rides so far but it's a hoot. lots of traction on the ups and a freight train on the downs. my weekday rides involve getting dropped off at the trails and having to ride 15km/10mile home afterwards - more a slog than on my 29er HT, but not nearly as bad as i was expecting :)

    first snow ride is tonight

    I'm eagerly waiting for my frame to build up. How tall are you? You get a 20"?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • 12-10-2016
    boomforeal
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by trailwerks View Post
    I'm eagerly waiting for my frame to build up. How tall are you? You get a 20"?

    6'2" and yeah i got a 20
  • 12-10-2016
    trailwerks
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by boomforeal View Post
    6'2" and yeah i got a 20

    Good to hear. Me too. Was a little worried about the reach compared to my bike.



    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  • 12-10-2016
    boomforeal
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by trailwerks View Post
    Good to hear. Me too. Was a little worried about the reach compared to my bike.

    if you're coming from - or especially if you'll be switching back and forth with - a modern trail/am bike, you might find it a bit discombobulating for the first few rides. but in absolute terms its not that bad
  • 12-26-2016
    trailwerks
    It has been a blast so far. It's easy to pop up. Jumps like crazy and has been pretty comfortable.

    Fork is set at 100mm but I will be extending to 120 and putting a bit more rise of a bar on.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • 01-01-2017
    FlowinFlo
    1 Attachment(s)
    Attachment 1113275

    Now with a Jumbo Jim 4.4" in the rear.
  • 01-06-2017
    boomforeal
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by trailwerks View Post
    Fork is set at 100mm but I will be extending to 120 and putting a bit more rise of a bar on.

    i'll be interested to hear your impression with a bluto at 120. the fatty is designed around a 470mm long fork and a bluto at 120 will be pushing 530mm, almost 3" longer

    i hear you on the riser bar though, just bought a fu40 for mine
  • 05-10-2017
    blowery
    So dumb question... I need to upgrade my crankset on this bike.

    Going with race face aeffect 170mm.

    Bottom bracket: looking at shimano XTR SM BB93 (not 100mm) but can I just toss the plastic sleeve or is that a bad idea?
    Should I just look for something different for a bottom bracket?