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  1. #151
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    THe dude at stans says that it depends on where you buy the rims. There might be some older 1st gen rims at stores, distributors, etc, but the rim they are sending me as a replacement is 2nd generation.

  2. #152
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    Ordered a Scraper. I'll keep you guys posted...

  3. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by rocky.mountain View Post
    THe dude at stans says that it depends on where you buy the rims. There might be some older 1st gen rims at stores, distributors, etc, but the rim they are sending me as a replacement is 2nd generation.
    So there is no way to tell the difference between the "bendable buddy" and the 2nd gen wheels other than weighing them? No recall of the obviously unsafe 1st gen? No way for the distributors to tell what they have and what they will get? Just ignore the problem and maybe it'll go away. That would be unbelievably irresponsible on Stan's part! Please tell me I'm wrong!
    Hard work MUST have killed someone

  4. #154
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    2nd Gen Rims arrived at my dealer last week after holding out since I plan to ride it year round. Custom Wheels arrived Saturday and installed for the first ride on Sunday - awesome!! 2016 Felt Dude 70, setup with Cannondale Lefty Supermax fork/hub on the front and 12 x 197 through axle rear - tubeless with Schwalbe Jumbo Jims - awesome ride!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Notubes Hugo 52mm Rim-img_4451.jpg  


  5. #155
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    Quote Originally Posted by roll0060 View Post
    2nd Gen Rims arrived at my dealer last week after holding out since I plan to ride it year round. Custom Wheels arrived Saturday and installed for the first ride on Sunday - awesome!! 2016 Felt Dude 70, setup with Cannondale Lefty Supermax fork/hub on the front and 12 x 197 through axle rear - tubeless with Schwalbe Jumbo Jims - awesome ride!
    - Did you have to Lace the wheels differently?
    - Can you post the tire-fork side clearance pic?
    - Does the for feel sluggish at cold temperatures?

  6. #156
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pink Pony View Post
    - Did you have to Lace the wheels differently?
    - Can you post the tire-fork side clearance pic?
    - Does the for feel sluggish at cold temperatures?
    Wheel area laced normal, the supermax hub has extra offset so more fork clearance. Don't have a clearance pic now but can post one, running 4" tires now with about 1/4" clearance, might be able to run 4.5" but will be close.

    Fork is from Cannondale's all mountain bike - works great in any conditions, even cold winters here in MN

    I expect Cannondale will release their own version with this same setup in 2016 or 2017 - it's a no brainer!

  7. #157
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    WOW! I was really interested in these (HUGOS) when i first saw them as well. I am currently running chronicles on a velocity dually up front and a velocity blunt outback.
    I'm a heavy guy weighing over 250 lbs. I have had zero issues so far and I have over 100 miles through extremely rocky central Texas terrain. I'm not gonna lie though.... I have chinese carbon hoops flying through the clouds in my dreams though
    Mikee Likes It!
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  8. #158
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    So, does anyone have anything to say about Version 2?

  9. #159
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    Quote Originally Posted by bruto View Post
    So, does anyone have anything to say about Version 2?
    I was on a huge group ride a couple of weekends ago, and one guy I was talking to after the ride badly dented his new (1st or 2nd ride) Hugo V2 rim on the ride after hitting a root that never gave him problems before. He showed me a pic, and it was ridiculous how terrible it was. He wasn't a big guy, but since I didn't know him, I have no idea of his riding style, etc.
    "Keep your burgers lean and your tires fat." -h.d. | ssoft | flickr

  10. #160
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    damn!
    I wonder if any of the single wall rims like Fatlab, Mulefut, Schlick etc. are any better, though

  11. #161
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drevil View Post
    I was on a huge group ride a couple of weekends ago, and one guy I was talking to after the ride badly dented his new (1st or 2nd ride) Hugo V2 rim on the ride after hitting a root that never gave him problems before. He showed me a pic, and it was ridiculous how terrible it was. He wasn't a big guy, but since I didn't know him, I have no idea of his riding style, etc.
    I've sold quite a few of both V1 and V2. Many that bought V1 dented them and they were relaced/replaced by Stans with V2's. Have heard zero reports of denting any of the V2's thus far.

    My $.02.
    Handbuilt wheels: www.LaceMine29.com

  12. #162
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    mikesee, is there a way to tell which version we have please?

  13. #163
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    Quote Originally Posted by new8812 View Post
    mikesee, is there a way to tell which version we have please?
    V2 are heavier.
    Handbuilt wheels: www.LaceMine29.com

  14. #164
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    Tx!

  15. #165
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    BUMP.

    Just wondering if there have been any new reports regarding durability issues with the V2 rims. Not sure how much people have been using these in the last few months, given the fact that its winter and many have switched to their wider rims, but I'm thinking ahead about a new wheel for spring. Thanks for any news you've got.
    We still hang bike thieves in Wyoming [Pedal House]

  16. #166
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    I ran them from May until we got snow a couple weeks ago. No problems. I run VanHelgas on them

  17. #167
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    Dented mine, just like in this pic, but worse.
    I ran into something in a pudle of mud. Not shure what is was.
    Was able to do a trailside repair with a log of wood.
    Evidence at 3:30

    Belgian beer and Scotch whisky.

  18. #168
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    I think too many Stans fanboys rushed into their purchase without looking at the cutaway picture of the Hugo. I'm no engineer but it simply looks like a horrible design. Hardly any sidewall, and it wings out from the strong double wall portion much to far for a single sheet of metal. Leverage equals bent rim. You couldn't give me a free set of those. Otherwise they have great rim shapes for the rest of their lineup. Now as for their yellow tubeless tape I bought for $20, I've never cussed so much at installing a bike part. Gorilla tape has that segment on lockdown.

    WTB Scraper or Sun Mulefut all the way. My wife has a stache (the bike) and the mulefuts are beasts. Tire and all they weighed a hair more than 5lbs and my Kona unit 20mm rim with 2.4 ardent was about 4.8.

  19. #169
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    How much does Mulefut weigh with the PE tape?
    Alex MD50 is 800g and it's a proper 50mm double rim with thick spoke bed

  20. #170
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    The staches mulefut is still stock tubed. I hear + tubes are 400 grams? But another thing is rims with cutouts like mule and surly probably weigh the same with the rim strip, I'd imagine the strip is about 100 grams and that sounds like the amount you'd save by cutting out holes in the first place. Looks cool but definitely doesn't help as far as strength. So I will most likely WTB scraper my Kona unit.

    And in case others find this thread in a search looking to + their unit, the rear is pretty tight so I plan on putting a 2.4 on the rear plus rim.

    I can't even go to the pump track unless my tires are 40 psi. Stupid 20mm rims!

  21. #171
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    No reason to choose Scraper when this exists: Ben's Cycle - ALEX MD50 29 Plus 29x3.0 Rim 32h Black
    Unless 45mm is the widest you can go for some reason!

  22. #172
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    Best design yet! Thanks for link! I'm iphone only with slow connection.

    Arched design all the way down sidewall, and reinforced double wall and only about 50g heavier than WTB! AND no trend pricing like WTB has. You can get two of this rims and then some for the price of one WTB Scraper.

    Is Bens Cycle a good place to buy?

  23. #173
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    I bought a pair there myself
    haven't built them up yet, though no frame anyway

  24. #174
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    You can build them up and run down a dirt road with them and a stick like 3rd world kids do. They are always smiling so might as well give it a shot. Who knows maybe you will give up your build altogether! Start running down your local trail an take the wind out of the unicyclers sail!

  25. #175
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    We were just studying the disaster that was the Montreal Olympic venue project in my engineering class. The arched velodrome was designed by a french architect without regard to structure. It's shallow height relative to the span of the arch was inherently weak and contributed to major problems:Notubes Hugo 52mm Rim-3-stans-hugo-tubeless-fatbike-wheel.jpgNotubes Hugo 52mm Rim-8aec4dd542ad49bebf144b5a5b24f081.jpg

  26. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by kYLEMtnCRUZr View Post
    You can build them up and run down a dirt road with them and a stick like 3rd world kids do. They are always smiling so might as well give it a shot.
    Can't believe I'm posting this, but:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iunxIzxpWjs
    We still hang bike thieves in Wyoming [Pedal House]

  27. #177
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    I have the md50's on my mason comp. It took a while to figure out what those rims are. How do you go tubeless on a rim this wide? I dont see a kit that fits the bill. I dont like that they're pinned, but they may withstand my level of abuse.

  28. #178
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    why do you need a kit? just put a tape over the nipple holes and maybe the pinned joint (seen reports here that it might bleed air)

  29. #179
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    Is it really that simple? I keep seeing gorilla tape is good. Is there something special to the glue or the elasticity of the tape thats needed? It says they're tubeless ready, but I didnt dismount a tire yet to see if there is tape (although I doubt it).

  30. #180
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    tubeless ready means the profile is suitable to lock tire bead in place without a tube
    wouldn't count on tubeless tape being there, though - might be regular rim tape

    tubeless tape needs to be strong enough to withstand the pressure of air (which is not much in the case of 3.0 tires) and not tear spontaneously over the nipple holes or be punctured easily by the tire levers, sticky enough not to peel off when you're installing and removing the tire and not to let the sealant creep underneath it and smooth enough to facilitate the tire slipping over it when it's being installed

    There's a whole thread here on MTBR about tubeless tapes, the general consensus is that bike company branded ones are overpriced general issue strapping tapes - read the last few pages, there was instruction on how to make the tape adhere to the rim better

    gorilla tape, 3m 8896, 3m 8898, tesa 4288/4298/4289 are just as good or better as Stan's/whatever else bike brand tape
    with md50 being as wide as it is, try putting the tape just over the nipple holes first and see if the tire is loose over the bead seat (which generally prevents it from seating easily)
    if it is, add a layer of rim tape there too

  31. #181
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    as for tape, if its any help, i did some poking around and have been using a vinyl tape as detailed here with great success - caveat - non ammonia sealant.

  32. #182
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    Quote Originally Posted by udelslayer View Post
    Is it really that simple? I keep seeing gorilla tape is good. Is there something special to the glue or the elasticity of the tape thats needed? It says they're tubeless ready, but I didnt dismount a tire yet to see if there is tape (although I doubt it).
    Gorilla tape is heavy and the adhesive degrades with contact to sealant. i used Tyvek tape to seal my WTB Scrapers and it performs extremely well.
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  33. #183
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    Quote Originally Posted by bruto View Post
    How much does Mulefut weigh with the PE tape?
    Alex MD50 is 800g and it's a proper 50mm double rim with thick spoke bed
    I wish that they made an Alex MD65 (622X65) in a 29+

  34. #184
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    for which tire?

  35. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by bruto View Post
    for which tire?
    Knard 29 x 3.0
    I have a Blackborow with lots of clearance so I have no need or desire to squeeze a 3" tire into a skinny ass 45mm Scraper, Rabbit Hole or Mulefüt.
    Last edited by FatBike&SlenderWoman; 05-10-2016 at 09:34 AM.

  36. #186
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    Quote Originally Posted by udelslayer View Post
    Is it really that simple? I keep seeing gorilla tape is good. Is there something special to the glue or the elasticity of the tape thats needed?
    3M 764

    3M General Purpose Vinyl Tape 764 Black, 2 in x 36 yd 5.0 mil (Pack of 1): Electrical Tape: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

  37. #187
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    As promised on another thread...

    ...I will share the gory details of mounting tires tubeless on 622mm v2 Hugo rims.

    I taped up the center holes on the Hugo with the recommended single layer of yellow tape and mounted a 29 x 3 Surly Knard with my bare hands using baby shampoo as a lubricant just to see how airtight it would be with no sealant.
    I then sprayed the entire wheel with shampoo/water solution to search for leaks. Needless to say, the bead of the not so tight fitting Knard foamed like a rabid dog.

    So, off comes the Knard and onto the 29 x 2.8 Vee Speedsters.
    Let me just say that a Speedster is EXTREMELY tight on a Hugo. So much so that after a few petitions to the almighty for condemnation of the aforementioned tire, I actually checked the sidewall to verify that I in fact had a 29 tire and not a 27.5!

    Anyway, after destroying a couple of flat levers, I brought out the new Prestalevers and after much tugging and a few more curse words, it popped into the groove on the rim. Flip it over...repeat.
    These beads are so tight sitting in the inside channels of the rim that I suspect that they could easily be seated using the little hand pump clipped to seat tube of my road bike but I did use a compressor. The final pop was heard around 30psi.

    The perk in all of this is that Vee Speedsters on a Hugo do not leak (NO SEALANT REQUIRED) but after submerging the wheel in a tub of water and witnessing air bubbles pouring out from around the valve stem in a manner reminiscent of the aerator in the bottom of my aquarium, it became clear that the pinned seam on Stan's (the defacto god of tubeless) NoTubes Hugo is NOT air tight. Who'd a thunk?

    So, more grunting to remove tire, rip the 28mm yellow tape off, seal the entire seam and pins with gap filling CA adhesive. (Pay no attention to the silicon sealant in the photo...CA seals a lot better.)
    Notubes Hugo 52mm Rim-img_6803.jpg

    After further review: I would not recommend using Tyvek tape to cover nipple holes on boxed rims like the Hugo.
    At 30 psi., the tape over the nipple holes will eventually stretch and blow out.
    To remove Tyvek, one has to immerse the rim with hot water in order to soften the adhesive enough to prevent tearing while slowly pulling off the tape.
    After much scrubbing with various solvents and detergents, the rims still remain sticky with residue but I guess that is okay because the new tape is sticking very well.
    Retape with a 1" wide strapping tape of choice such as Tesa 4289. No need to tape the entire seam...just tape over the nipple holes. Tires and levers will never come in contact with the tape. If you plan on running tire pressures in excess of 15 psi like me, I would strongly recommend doing two laps of tape around the rim. It is only 3.5g per lap...7g total.
    Notubes Hugo 52mm Rim-img_6806.jpg

    Finished taping, install valve stem.
    Notubes Hugo 52mm Rim-img_6810.jpg

    Paint the bead with some automotive bead sealer or use a 60ml syringe available in the vet supply isle at Fleet Farm or local farm co-op. No need to remove valve core, just go ahead and inflate.
    Notubes Hugo 52mm Rim-img_6813.jpg

    ...and (as the automotive industry figured out decades ago) I am now able to run 30psi w/no leaks and no sealant.
    Notubes Hugo 52mm Rim-speedsterhugo.jpg

    Click on photos for higher resolution.
    Last edited by FatBike&SlenderWoman; 02-11-2017 at 12:55 PM. Reason: Tyvek tape sucks

  38. #188
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    Pinned rims are such a joy
    Had a similar story (multiple reinstallation, retaping and silicone sealant) with Alex MD50 except the tire (Bomboloni) goes on and off with bare hands yet still seats nicely with a floor pump

  39. #189
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    Quote Originally Posted by bruto View Post
    tubeless ready means the profile is suitable to lock tire bead in place without a tube
    wouldn't count on tubeless tape being there, though - might be regular rim tape

    tubeless tape needs to be strong enough to withstand the pressure of air (which is not much in the case of 3.0 tires) and not tear spontaneously over the nipple holes or be punctured easily by the tire levers, sticky enough not to peel off when you're installing and removing the tire and not to let the sealant creep underneath it and smooth enough to facilitate the tire slipping over it when it's being installed

    There's a whole thread here on MTBR about tubeless tapes, the general consensus is that bike company branded ones are overpriced general issue strapping tapes - read the last few pages, there was instruction on how to make the tape adhere to the rim better

    gorilla tape, 3m 8896, 3m 8898, tesa 4288/4298/4289 are just as good or better as Stan's/whatever else bike brand tape
    with md50 being as wide as it is, try putting the tape just over the nipple holes first and see if the tire is loose over the bead seat (which generally prevents it from seating easily)
    if it is, add a layer of rim tape there too
    8898 did not work very well for me. It would be better if it had a little more stretch to stay in the channel. Anybody know of a retailer that is selling single rolls of tesa 4289.

  40. #190
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    ebay? tesa 4289 | eBay
    not quite as cheap as 8898, though

    I would like to say that didn't have any problems with the 3M tape as long as I stuck to single layer at the bead shelf
    It has enough stretch to stick to the rim (channel or not) and stay put, the problem is insufficient adhesion to itself which causes the top layer to shift and fold into wrinkles when installing/removing the tire
    If you think that a single layer is not enough to withstand air pressure over the nipple holes, then cut a narrower strip which is just enough to cover them, then another layer of full width over that. That's what I did, works for me.

  41. #191
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    Quote Originally Posted by bruto View Post
    ebay? tesa 4289 | eBay
    not quite as cheap as 8898, though...
    ...It has enough stretch to stick to the rim (channel or not) and stay put, the problem is insufficient adhesion to itself which causes the top layer to shift and fold into wrinkles when installing/removing the tire
    If you seal the entire seam and pins with a gap filling CA adhesive and spray with a CA accelerator (available at any hobby shop) prior to taping, you just need to tape the center channel over the nipple holes with a 1" wide tape which will prevent any tape contact with tires or levers.

    Quote Originally Posted by bruto View Post
    ...If you think that a single layer is not enough to withstand air pressure over the nipple holes...
    Yes, two layers is highly recommended when running pressures in excess of 15 psi. Then apply some CA at the end of the second layer to keep tape secure. (rubber tire patch cement works with Tesa 4289)

  42. #192
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    I'm confused here. I have a set of V2 27.5 Hogo's that set up tubeless without issue. Just a thin layer of tape in the middle over the spoke holes and that's it. Weird that people are having so many issues.

  43. #193
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    Quote Originally Posted by FatBike&SlenderWoman View Post
    Knard 29 x 3.0
    I have a Blackborow with lots of clearance so I have no need or desire to squeeze a 3" tire into a skinny ass 45mm Scraper, Rabbit Hole or Mulefüt.
    What did you end up with?

    Any idea what the widest 29er rims available are? Is it the Hugo and Alex at about 50mm inside width? I couldn't find anything bigger.

  44. #194
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeny View Post
    I'm confused here. I have a set of V2 27.5 Hugo's that set up tubeless without issue. Just a thin layer of tape in the middle over the spoke holes and that's it. Weird that people are having so many issues.
    If you are running lower pressures with sealant, that will work fine.

    Running dry at 30 psi requires the pins and entire seam to be sealed otherwise there will be bubbles in the pond.

  45. #195
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    Quote Originally Posted by FatBike&SlenderWoman View Post
    If you are running lower pressures with sealant, that will work fine.

    Running dry at 30 psi requires the pins and entire seam to be sealed otherwise there will be bubbles in the pond.
    Gotcha. Next question, why are you running them dry? I've never heard of anyone running tubeless tires without sealant.

  46. #196
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeny View Post
    What did you end up with?

    Any idea what the widest 29er rims available are? Is it the Hugo and Alex at about 50mm inside width? I couldn't find anything bigger.
    I am running Speedsters on Hugos (scroll up to post #187)
    I am still looking/waiting for a 65-622 rim for the Knards.
    Fatlab has the widest (51-622) rims currently available in the US.
    Fatlab 29x55 - FatLab bicyclesFatLab bicycles

  47. #197
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeny View Post
    Gotcha. Next question, why are you running them dry?
    Because I can!...no, seriously The tires are Vee Speedsters which are extremely tight on a Hugo hence no leaks. (See post #187 above for details)
    Knards leak all over the place so they will need some sealant.
    I am using the bike primarily as an urban commuter bunny hopping curbs, pot holes and railroad tracks so I am not concerned about rocks, thorns etc.

    Quote Originally Posted by bikeny View Post
    I've never heard of anyone running tubeless tires without sealant.
    The automotive industry figured it out decades ago. Now, the bike tire industry is just starting to get on board with their touring tires. Schwalbe has a few MicroSkin products featuring sealed casings that do not require sealant (Marathon Supreme comes to mind).
    The Vee Speedsters are pretty airtight. There is some minimal bubble weeping around the lettering that will require topping off the air once/week. I suppose an ounce or two of sealant would take care of that.

    I wonder if spraying the inside of the casing with Scotchgard would seal that? It works great at sealing fabric and paper.
    Last edited by FatBike&SlenderWoman; 09-14-2016 at 09:07 AM. Reason: grammer :)

  48. #198
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    Xtreme Carbon Rim 622 X 85mm

    Quote Originally Posted by bikeny View Post
    What did you end up with?

    Any idea what the widest 29er rims available are? Is it the Hugo and Alex at about 50mm inside width? I couldn't find anything bigger.
    Xtreme Carbon 622 x 85mm
    Xtreme Alloy 622 x 96mm

    (Click on images to zoom)
    Bud/Clown Shoe next to Xtreme Warrior/Xtreme Carbon rim
    Notubes Hugo 52mm Rim-budknardortho.jpg

    29 x 3.0" Knard on Xtreme Carbon rim
    Notubes Hugo 52mm Rim-knardxtremecarbon.jpg

    Warrior and Knard side by side on Xreme Carbon rims
    Notubes Hugo 52mm Rim-warriorknard.jpg
    Last edited by FatBike&SlenderWoman; 02-11-2017 at 06:05 AM.

  49. #199
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    Anybody heard of Xtreme Fat Tire Bikes? Feedback? Are you TommySea? Those wheels must be very balanced.
    Quote Originally Posted by FatBike&SlenderWoman View Post
    Xtreme Carbon 622 x 85mm
    Xtreme Alloy 622 x 96mm

    (Click on images to zoom)
    Bud on Clown Shoe next to Xtreme Warrior tire on Xtream Carbon rim
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    29 x 3.0" Knard on Xtreme Carbon rim
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    Warrior and Knard side by side on Xreme Carbon rims
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    ptarmigan hardcore

  50. #200
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    Quote Originally Posted by Co-opski View Post
    ...Are you TommySea?
    No, that was a cheap Fat Bike company that was in business about seven years ago, different owner, no longer in business.
    Xtreme Fat Bikes is out of Florida making all wheel drive e-bikes and breaking speed records with their Xtreme Fat sand bikes.
    I am in Wisconsin commuting in the snow/slop along with weekend fat bike races.

    Quote Originally Posted by Co-opski View Post
    ...Those wheels must be very balanced.
    They are if you install your speedo magnet opposite the valve stem.

    After a year of searching and pleading with rim manufacturers to build a 622 rim wider than 50mm so I could run Knards as a fast winter commuter wheelset, I found the Xtreme Carbon 85mm rim along with the wider, more aggessive Warrior tire. Each wheel is 2lb lighter than a tubeless Bud/Lou/Clown Shoe while maintaining identical outside diameter. So Bud/Lou are now kept on standby for slogging through the occasional school closing snow storm or mashed potato races should the need arise.

    I ran the Xtreme wheelset last weekend at an event which consisted of 21 miles of mixed snow and ice crossing a plowed lake.
    Running with no studs, I am usually hesitant to clip in with these kind of conditions but after the first 100 yards of no skidding, I clipped in for the duration. Since I was one of the last to launch in a field of 300 bikes, I ended up passing at least 40 bikes that where running studded Dillingers...so I'm sold. On to the Birkie! (weather permitting)
    Last edited by FatBike&SlenderWoman; 02-13-2017 at 10:31 PM.

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