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  1. #101
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    I'm running 8psi on 80mm rims - seems to be the sweet spot for me (about 180lbs) and I run every trail around Tucson, AZ - some serious rocks out there. That being said, I had to learn quickly to adjust the riding style from full suspension or I would have suffered the same destroyed rim as above... I had a couple close calls

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee View Post
    Why someone would choose to run fat tires at ~8psi on Sedona-esque trails is beyond me. That's virtually begging for dented rims.

    Stop the insanity, please. Fat tires are awesome, and they have a place (several, actually), but desert hardpack and rock are emphatically not it.
    Thanks for your opinion but you obviously dont know everything so please stop acting like you do!!

  3. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by winkster View Post
    Thanks for your opinion but you obviously dont know everything so please stop acting like you do!!
    Opinions can differ but MC really does know what he is talking about and this forum would be a much lesser place without him in it. Boy is that some serious sucking up aye true story though.

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Boy is that some serious sucking up aye
    Got some new wheels coming?

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by SmooveP View Post
    Got some new wheels coming?
    No but thinking about it points never hurt right?

  6. #106
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    Why people do lots of stuff is beyond me.

    I personally do not like the amount of tire movement at under 10psi on dry ground here in the East. Unlike you I do like fat tires in all conditions, we have a few rocks sprinkled in with the dirt here but I don't see a problem with the fat tires.

    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee View Post
    Why someone would choose to run fat tires at ~8psi on Sedona-esque trails is beyond me. That's virtually begging for dented rims.

    Stop the insanity, please. Fat tires are awesome, and they have a place (several, actually), but desert hardpack and rock are emphatically not it.
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  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by shoo View Post
    Why people do lots of stuff is beyond me.

    I personally do not like the amount of tire movement at under 10psi on dry ground here in the East. Unlike you I do like fat tires in all conditions, we have a few rocks sprinkled in with the dirt here but I don't see a problem with the fat tires.
    `People think I'm cracked but on dirt I never run below 10psi in the back either. With bluto on the front I like around 12-13. I do like that my most recent frame affords me the pleasure of running a little bit higher psi, still stiff but does deafen the chatter.

  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by shoo View Post
    Why people do lots of stuff is beyond me.

    I personally do not like the amount of tire movement at under 10psi on dry ground here in the East. Unlike you I do like fat tires in all conditions, we have a few rocks sprinkled in with the dirt here but I don't see a problem with the fat tires.
    Not sure if you saw this one, but a friend of ours dented his front Hugo rim a couple of times (with Surly Knards) on his brand new Niner ROS 9 Plus at the Frederick Watershed a week and a half ago. Just an FYI, the FredShed is one of the rockiest trails within an hour of Washington, DC.

    BTW, I wasn't there; this pic is from another buddy of ours that was on the ride.

    Notubes Hugo 52mm Rim-hugodent.jpg
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  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee View Post
    Why someone would choose to run fat tires at ~8psi on Sedona-esque trails is beyond me. That's virtually begging for dented rims.

    Stop the insanity, please. Fat tires are awesome, and they have a place (several, actually), but desert hardpack and rock are emphatically not it.
    +1. I'll differ slightly, though. Fat tires are pretty awesome everywhere, but it's neither necessary nor desirable to run low presses all the time. 8-9 psi in dry rocks is whack, yo.

  10. #110
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    For my scrawny ass, 8psi works fine in rocks. High pressure is too bouncy for me in rock gardens. Rider weight and riding style are factors. Rims of all types have been dented and ruined long before fat bikes were invented. I have yet to do more than superficially dent any of my fat rims so far. I've trashed a few skinny rims over the years, however.

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by Coleman22 View Post
    looking for feedback....


    considering either converting the rabbit hole rims on my krampus to split tube tubeless or going with a new wheelset. looking to drop some weight off the bike and give SS a try. Would the Hugo be worth the expense? seems like i might be able to lose about 2 lbs vs the RH set up tubeless?

    also considering the Jungle fox rims from nextie but am weary of running carbon rims on our rocky texas hill country trails.

    any help is appreciated!
    I recently went from split tube Rabbit Holes to Hugos on my Krampus and I did save about 2 pounds, but a fair amount of that was also going from 27 to 120 tpi versions.

    I'm not so worried about the Hugo durability as I'm 160 pounds and only ride below 10 psi when on snow, sand, etc... Normally I run somewhere around 12-15 on trails and it's not all that rocky around here. Plus I don't put a whole lot of weight on tires rolling over stuff. It's a high volume / low psi tire, not full suspension.

    Curious if those questioning the Hugo durability have / would have dented other rims in same conditions...

  12. #112
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    I am posting this picture to help anyone who is thinking about getting gen1 hugo52 rims. The rims are soft.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Notubes Hugo 52mm Rim-image.jpg  


  13. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcufari View Post
    I am posting this picture to help anyone who is thinking about getting gen1 hugo52 rims. The rims are soft.
    Wow, and right at 35 psi!

  14. #114
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    Hmmm, glad I didn't wait for these rims and built my wheels with TrialTech 47mm hoops. :-) Tire pressure varies greatly by weight - my 70 lb son on his Pugsley likes 8 PSI on dirt. Tried them higher PSI and when he jumped it sounded like a basketball when he landed. He also only weighs 70lbs. Me on the other hand haven't had any luck at anything below 12 PSI up front (Bluto) and 10 in rear. This is for hard pack with some sandy sections. :-)

  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by winkster View Post
    Thanks for your opinion but you obviously dont know everything so please stop acting like you do!!

    Ya Mike! Stop with all your "knowledge" and "experience"!! We don't need that round these parts :eyeroll:
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  16. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcufari View Post
    I am posting this picture to help anyone who is thinking about getting gen1 hugo52 rims. The rims are soft.
    I've heard that was the case with this first batch......
    "I ride to clear my head, my head is clearer when I'm riding SS. Therefore, I choose to ride SS."~ Fullrange Drew

  17. #117
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    Lol! People sure do get upset because your not following the norm. I have been harassed for having too much pressure in my tires. I tell them I might have too much pressure in my tires(by there standards) but they have too much pressure in there heads.

    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    `People think I'm cracked but on dirt I never run below 10psi in the back either. With bluto on the front I like around 12-13. I do like that my most recent frame affords me the pleasure of running a little bit higher psi, still stiff but does deafen the chatter.
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  18. #118
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    What adapters did you use

    Quote Originally Posted by santacruzer View Post
    I didn't like the Schrader valve on the Hugo so I changed it to an American Classic Presta valve with some adapters we dug up, QBP has them.
    I put Chronicles on last night and I've never had a tire set up tubeless so easy. I used a compressor with the valve core installed and it beaded up in no time and didn't leak...anywhere, right off the bat. I had a Knard and a 2.35 Ikon (2.7 on the Hugo) on previously and they were almost as easy

    Here's a Knard and Hugo, the Maxxis still fits my 2012 Fox Fork
    Attachment 941818

    Someone had to do it...
    Attachment 941819
    Hey Santacruzer...

    What are the adapters that QBP has to swich?

  19. #119
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    I'm a little concerned by the dented Hugo's I see in this thread but I had to get a pair to test for myself. The last post on this thread was in December, anybody have any news to report?

    These 27.5's came in under the advertised weight. Visually, I find them appealing and the quality looks to be very good.

    I didn't notice the eyelets in all the pre-production press pictures. That's a change from Stan's other ZTR rims and I'm curious about the reasons why they were added. Especially since the recommended max spoke tension is lower than their EX products.

    Hopefully the 27.5 tires start showing up on the market.
    Notubes Hugo 52mm Rim-hugo.jpg

  20. #120
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    Looks sweet! Seems to be in a weight and size class all on its own right now...for an aluminum rim, that is. Curious to see how durable it is in all conditions too...
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  21. #121
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    Has anyone found any detailed reviews of these yet? The rims are starting to show up online, but I haven't seen many in depth reports on what they're like.

  22. #122
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    I just had a set of 26" Hugos built up for my Borealis. They are nice rims, but I can not get a Husker Du to seal up on these. Anyone have any suggestions? They are leaking severely around the rim/bead sealing surface.

  23. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackdz View Post
    I just had a set of 26" Hugos built up for my Borealis. They are nice rims, but I can not get a Husker Du to seal up on these. Anyone have any suggestions? They are leaking severely around the rim/bead sealing surface.
    HD's are very loose fitting tires. I would either try building up the bead seat area with tape (see pic) or with latax mold builder or get different tires.

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  24. #124
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    A pic of a dented rim with the word 'soft' is alarming, but somewhat lean on facts.

  25. #125
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    I would be wary of rim strikes. I would also get a good low pressure gauge if you are going to use Hugo's.

  26. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by slower_than_u View Post
    These 27.5's came in under the advertised weight. Visually, I find them appealing and the quality looks to be very good.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    FYI: if someone is looking for a more durable "+" rim, the WTB Scraper is very nice. But, it's a true doublewall design, so it weighs 100g more than the Hugo.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Notubes Hugo 52mm Rim-image.jpg  

    Notubes Hugo 52mm Rim-image.jpg  

    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  27. #127
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    Those are some pretty significant dents!

  28. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackdz View Post
    I just had a set of 26" Hugos built up for my Borealis. They are nice rims, but I can not get a Husker Du to seal up on these. Anyone have any suggestions? They are leaking severely around the rim/bead sealing surface.
    Here's an update. When I tried to set the HuDu's up last night, it was late and I was tired. Today, I looked and the HuDu's did not seat on the bead lock on the Hugo. I soaped the tire up real well and upped the pressure on my compressor to 20 psi and the popped on with a loud "Pop". They are seat nice, I rode them and believe I can run the HuDu's at a pretty low pressure without burping. As a note, I do NOT intend to run the HuDu's below 8psi.....I have a set of HED's with Ground Controls that I use in non-packed heavy snow situations that require low pressure. I never go below 6 psi...ever.

  29. #129
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    I am going insane trying to figure out what rim to run for summer. Heretofore I was thinking 65-70mm carbon of some sort, but now I am thinking about these.

    But now that I'm thinking about these, is 52mm with a 3.8" tire still noticeably fat? And what confuses me more, is on a Specialized Fatboy, if I'm thinking of 52mm rim, would it still "feel" like a fatbike or is it not much of a difference that I might as well look at 27.5+ or 29+ instead?
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  30. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by XJaredX View Post
    I am going insane trying to figure out what rim to run for summer. Heretofore I was thinking 65-70mm carbon of some sort, but now I am thinking about these.

    But now that I'm thinking about these, is 52mm with a 3.8" tire still noticeably fat? And what confuses me more, is on a Specialized Fatboy, if I'm thinking of 52mm rim, would it still "feel" like a fatbike or is it not much of a difference that I might as well look at 27.5+ or 29+ instead?
    I'm currently kinda in the same boat as I've decided to go with 2 wheelsets (winter & summer sets). I've ran fat on 47mm Northpaws, 65mm MLs and 82mm RDs all on western NC singletrack. Also had a Krampus with 47mm 29" Northpaws & 3" Knards.

    To me fat on a 47mm rim is still way more tire volume. It is still more cush and seems to handle really root sections at speed better (rigid on all accounts). In general the 29+ setup seems to carry way more momentum but was more harsh on my bad shoulder.

    I'm currently debating 45-52mm setup with 3.8-4.0 tires vs WTB Scraper rims and 27.5+ 3-3.25" tires. I'd go with the Hugo in a heartbeat, if they would get the soft rim material issues sorted out. I emailed WTB asking if there was any chance of seeing a 26" Scraper rim at some point. They said not at this time, but they pay attention to what customers are wanting to buy. So.......maybe

    Edit- you do have to run higher pressures with the 45-52mm rims and 3.8-4.0" tires, but it's still less than with a 27.5-29+ setup (at least in my testing)
    I normally run RDs with Bud F (8.5-9.5 psi) & Nate Rear (9.5-10psi )
    MLs with Nate F (9-10 psi) & Hudu R (10-11 psi)
    Only ran a fat northpaw on fat front, but ran 47mm Northpaw Nate Combo at 10.5-11.5 psi)
    Ran 47mm 29" Northpaws with 27 TPI Knards & tubes at 14-15 psi Front & 15-16 psi rear.
    FWIW
    Last edited by nitrousjunky; 03-06-2015 at 12:01 PM.
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  31. #131
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    My LBS told me this week they heard the first batch of Hugo's were a little thin. Apparently the second run is supposed to be beefed up to try to avoid the rim dent issue. No idea how true this is, just what I heard.....

  32. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by jan_nikolajsen View Post
    A pic of a dented rim with the word 'soft' is alarming, but somewhat lean on facts.
    I have not seen many other rims with this user "warning", especially so early in the seasons, so that may be all the facts you need.

    I have Scrapers on order for my 650b+ build and a set of Duallys in the bull pen.

    I was told to skip Hugos for real world riding as the design looked "suspect". I guess they are no longer suspect....so maybe for light use only?

  33. #133
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    the width of that rim really does not lend itself well to light use. Alas, I just sucked it up and ordered some Whiskys. my LBS hooked me up real good, I love them
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  34. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by XJaredX View Post
    the width of that rim really does not lend itself well to light use. Alas, I just sucked it up and ordered some Whiskys. my LBS hooked me up real good, I love them
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  35. #135
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    Hey all,

    Anyone running these rims without constantly bending them? I am currently running a Rabbit Hole front with a standard 29 rear. Gonna be changing out the rear soon for plus model. I do not want to go less than 50mm and from what I have seen, my only options are Surly or Hugo and I am a heavy dude (230lbs). Anyone running these rims (Hugo 52) with success?

    Thanks.

  36. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bighec View Post
    Hey all,

    Anyone running these rims without constantly bending them? I am currently running a Rabbit Hole front with a standard 29 rear. Gonna be changing out the rear soon for plus model. I do not want to go less than 50mm and from what I have seen, my only options are Surly or Hugo and I am a heavy dude (230lbs). Anyone running these rims (Hugo 52) with success?

    Thanks.
    Can comment of using the Hugo. But you should add the Sun Mulefut 50 and the WTB Scraper i45 to your list as well.
    "I ride to clear my head, my head is clearer when I'm riding SS. Therefore, I choose to ride SS."~ Fullrange Drew

  37. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bighec View Post
    Hey all,

    Anyone running these rims without constantly bending them? I am currently running a Rabbit Hole front with a standard 29 rear. Gonna be changing out the rear soon for plus model. I do not want to go less than 50mm and from what I have seen, my only options are Surly or Hugo and I am a heavy dude (230lbs). Anyone running these rims (Hugo 52) with success?

    Thanks.
    I just gave up on these rims and ordered a wheelset with the Scrapers. I'll let you know in a week or two how they are. I'm 210 + gear, and I want to use these wheels for some deep backcountry stuff. The possibility of bent rims is too risky.

  38. #138
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    I've had great success with Stan's products over the years but I'd avoid Hugo. Stan's isn't really helping the issue either IMO. This a copy/paste from an email I got earlier this week from a wheel customer that went to Dirtfest at Ray's Town.

    "I just got home from Dirtrag DirtFest and was talking to the Stan's demo guys about the Hugo's and they weren't very reassuring. They didn't even have them on display, had them in the truck and were cautious to endorse them for "aggressive trail use" at sub 20psi. Admitted the sidewalls were weak and prone to dent on impact with rocks--this is from Stan's themselves! So how have they fared for you?"

    And this from a potential wheel customer;
    "According to the Stan's guy at Dirtfest, they didn't really intend the Hugo to be used with tires under 3.8" and they claim that is what the issue is/was, for what that's worth. A 4.0" tire looks good on it, nice and round for summer cornering."

    That one had me scratching my head for two reasons.

    1. They sent the 27.5 and 29 inch Hugo to market before a compatible tire existed?

    2. The Niner ROS9+ was fitted with Hugo as OEM before a 29x3.8 tire existed?

    I'm surprised they haven't recalled these before somebody gets hurt. My rear rim was dented to the point of being unable to hold air in less than ten miles. My front Hugo made it about twice as far before a very benign root strike caused instant depressurization that almost put me on the ground. Any faster and I'm sure I would have been. I beat it back straight and finished my ride but I was slow and a little scared. Mine are 27.5 and I was running 3.5 Fat B Nimble at 16psi. I'm 210lbs geared up.

    Stan's sent me 2nd generation warranty replacements and for the record, the rear rim is still dent free after two rides and approximately thirty miles.

  39. #139
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    Damn. Looks like tubeless is a no go for me then. I want 50mm or more and a 3 inch tire. Rabbit holes it is, I guess. Thanks for the feedback.

  40. #140
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    Typical Stans rim. Lighter than shit, and holds up just as good.

  41. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by litespeedaddict View Post
    Typical Stans rim. Lighter than shit, and holds up just as good.
    Nah--1st gen Hugo's were levels less durable than standard Stans rims.

  42. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bighec View Post
    Damn. Looks like tubeless is a no go for me then. I want 50mm or more and a 3 inch tire. Rabbit holes it is, I guess. Thanks for the feedback.
    Nextie makes a nice 50mm rim. I have a couple of 27.5 rims with 3.25" Vee Trax Fatties on them that work well.

  43. #143
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    I'll look into them. thx.

  44. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bighec View Post
    Damn. Looks like tubeless is a no go for me then. I want 50mm or more and a 3 inch tire. Rabbit holes it is, I guess. Thanks for the feedback.
    Curious, why not go with the WTB i45 Scraper then???
    "I ride to clear my head, my head is clearer when I'm riding SS. Therefore, I choose to ride SS."~ Fullrange Drew

  45. #145
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    I am a stans fanboy but just bent my hugo on the first ride doing nothing agressive. I would give these rims a STRONG do not buy at the moment. Too bad, they set up so nice tubeless.

    Ill let you know how painful the replacement/ money back goes.

  46. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitrousjunky View Post
    Curious, why not go with the WTB i45 Scraper then???
    I was looking for 50mm and up, but I'll prob buy the WTB. I've never had any issues with them before.

  47. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bighec View Post
    I was looking for 50mm and up, but I'll prob buy the WTB. I've never had any issues with them before.
    It is though, i45 stands for internal width of 45mm. If I remember correctly the external width is 50-51mm.
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  48. #148
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    Stan's is replacing the early Hugo's with a slightly burlier version that hopefully won't dent so easily I sent my wheelset back and they laced the wheels with the new ones

  49. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee View Post
    Nah--1st gen Hugo's were levels less durable than standard Stans rims.
    Do you know if the rims currently being sold are still 1st gen - or revamped?

    Thanks

    Tom

  50. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitrousjunky View Post
    It is though, i45 stands for internal width of 45mm. If I remember correctly the external width is 50-51mm.
    Thats good news. Thanks a million.

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    THe dude at stans says that it depends on where you buy the rims. There might be some older 1st gen rims at stores, distributors, etc, but the rim they are sending me as a replacement is 2nd generation.

  52. #152
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    Ordered a Scraper. I'll keep you guys posted...

  53. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by rocky.mountain View Post
    THe dude at stans says that it depends on where you buy the rims. There might be some older 1st gen rims at stores, distributors, etc, but the rim they are sending me as a replacement is 2nd generation.
    So there is no way to tell the difference between the "bendable buddy" and the 2nd gen wheels other than weighing them? No recall of the obviously unsafe 1st gen? No way for the distributors to tell what they have and what they will get? Just ignore the problem and maybe it'll go away. That would be unbelievably irresponsible on Stan's part! Please tell me I'm wrong!
    Hard work MUST have killed someone

  54. #154
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    2nd Gen Rims arrived at my dealer last week after holding out since I plan to ride it year round. Custom Wheels arrived Saturday and installed for the first ride on Sunday - awesome!! 2016 Felt Dude 70, setup with Cannondale Lefty Supermax fork/hub on the front and 12 x 197 through axle rear - tubeless with Schwalbe Jumbo Jims - awesome ride!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Notubes Hugo 52mm Rim-img_4451.jpg  


  55. #155
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    Quote Originally Posted by roll0060 View Post
    2nd Gen Rims arrived at my dealer last week after holding out since I plan to ride it year round. Custom Wheels arrived Saturday and installed for the first ride on Sunday - awesome!! 2016 Felt Dude 70, setup with Cannondale Lefty Supermax fork/hub on the front and 12 x 197 through axle rear - tubeless with Schwalbe Jumbo Jims - awesome ride!
    - Did you have to Lace the wheels differently?
    - Can you post the tire-fork side clearance pic?
    - Does the for feel sluggish at cold temperatures?

  56. #156
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pink Pony View Post
    - Did you have to Lace the wheels differently?
    - Can you post the tire-fork side clearance pic?
    - Does the for feel sluggish at cold temperatures?
    Wheel area laced normal, the supermax hub has extra offset so more fork clearance. Don't have a clearance pic now but can post one, running 4" tires now with about 1/4" clearance, might be able to run 4.5" but will be close.

    Fork is from Cannondale's all mountain bike - works great in any conditions, even cold winters here in MN

    I expect Cannondale will release their own version with this same setup in 2016 or 2017 - it's a no brainer!

  57. #157
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    WOW! I was really interested in these (HUGOS) when i first saw them as well. I am currently running chronicles on a velocity dually up front and a velocity blunt outback.
    I'm a heavy guy weighing over 250 lbs. I have had zero issues so far and I have over 100 miles through extremely rocky central Texas terrain. I'm not gonna lie though.... I have chinese carbon hoops flying through the clouds in my dreams though
    Mikee Likes It!
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  58. #158
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    So, does anyone have anything to say about Version 2?

  59. #159
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    Quote Originally Posted by bruto View Post
    So, does anyone have anything to say about Version 2?
    I was on a huge group ride a couple of weekends ago, and one guy I was talking to after the ride badly dented his new (1st or 2nd ride) Hugo V2 rim on the ride after hitting a root that never gave him problems before. He showed me a pic, and it was ridiculous how terrible it was. He wasn't a big guy, but since I didn't know him, I have no idea of his riding style, etc.
    "Keep your burgers lean and your tires fat." -h.d. | ssoft | flickr

  60. #160
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    damn!
    I wonder if any of the single wall rims like Fatlab, Mulefut, Schlick etc. are any better, though

  61. #161
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drevil View Post
    I was on a huge group ride a couple of weekends ago, and one guy I was talking to after the ride badly dented his new (1st or 2nd ride) Hugo V2 rim on the ride after hitting a root that never gave him problems before. He showed me a pic, and it was ridiculous how terrible it was. He wasn't a big guy, but since I didn't know him, I have no idea of his riding style, etc.
    I've sold quite a few of both V1 and V2. Many that bought V1 dented them and they were relaced/replaced by Stans with V2's. Have heard zero reports of denting any of the V2's thus far.

    My $.02.

  62. #162
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    mikesee, is there a way to tell which version we have please?

  63. #163
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    Quote Originally Posted by new8812 View Post
    mikesee, is there a way to tell which version we have please?
    V2 are heavier.

  64. #164
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    Tx!

  65. #165
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    BUMP.

    Just wondering if there have been any new reports regarding durability issues with the V2 rims. Not sure how much people have been using these in the last few months, given the fact that its winter and many have switched to their wider rims, but I'm thinking ahead about a new wheel for spring. Thanks for any news you've got.
    We still hang bike thieves in Wyoming [Pedal House]

  66. #166
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    I ran them from May until we got snow a couple weeks ago. No problems. I run VanHelgas on them

  67. #167
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    Dented mine, just like in this pic, but worse.
    I ran into something in a pudle of mud. Not shure what is was.
    Was able to do a trailside repair with a log of wood.
    Evidence at 3:30

    Belgian beer and Scotch whisky.

  68. #168
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    I think too many Stans fanboys rushed into their purchase without looking at the cutaway picture of the Hugo. I'm no engineer but it simply looks like a horrible design. Hardly any sidewall, and it wings out from the strong double wall portion much to far for a single sheet of metal. Leverage equals bent rim. You couldn't give me a free set of those. Otherwise they have great rim shapes for the rest of their lineup. Now as for their yellow tubeless tape I bought for $20, I've never cussed so much at installing a bike part. Gorilla tape has that segment on lockdown.

    WTB Scraper or Sun Mulefut all the way. My wife has a stache (the bike) and the mulefuts are beasts. Tire and all they weighed a hair more than 5lbs and my Kona unit 20mm rim with 2.4 ardent was about 4.8.

  69. #169
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    How much does Mulefut weigh with the PE tape?
    Alex MD50 is 800g and it's a proper 50mm double rim with thick spoke bed

  70. #170
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    The staches mulefut is still stock tubed. I hear + tubes are 400 grams? But another thing is rims with cutouts like mule and surly probably weigh the same with the rim strip, I'd imagine the strip is about 100 grams and that sounds like the amount you'd save by cutting out holes in the first place. Looks cool but definitely doesn't help as far as strength. So I will most likely WTB scraper my Kona unit.

    And in case others find this thread in a search looking to + their unit, the rear is pretty tight so I plan on putting a 2.4 on the rear plus rim.

    I can't even go to the pump track unless my tires are 40 psi. Stupid 20mm rims!

  71. #171
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    No reason to choose Scraper when this exists: Ben's Cycle - ALEX MD50 29 Plus 29x3.0 Rim 32h Black
    Unless 45mm is the widest you can go for some reason!

  72. #172
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    Best design yet! Thanks for link! I'm iphone only with slow connection.

    Arched design all the way down sidewall, and reinforced double wall and only about 50g heavier than WTB! AND no trend pricing like WTB has. You can get two of this rims and then some for the price of one WTB Scraper.

    Is Bens Cycle a good place to buy?

  73. #173
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    I bought a pair there myself
    haven't built them up yet, though no frame anyway

  74. #174
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    You can build them up and run down a dirt road with them and a stick like 3rd world kids do. They are always smiling so might as well give it a shot. Who knows maybe you will give up your build altogether! Start running down your local trail an take the wind out of the unicyclers sail!

  75. #175
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    We were just studying the disaster that was the Montreal Olympic venue project in my engineering class. The arched velodrome was designed by a french architect without regard to structure. It's shallow height relative to the span of the arch was inherently weak and contributed to major problems:Notubes Hugo 52mm Rim-3-stans-hugo-tubeless-fatbike-wheel.jpgNotubes Hugo 52mm Rim-8aec4dd542ad49bebf144b5a5b24f081.jpg

  76. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by kYLEMtnCRUZr View Post
    You can build them up and run down a dirt road with them and a stick like 3rd world kids do. They are always smiling so might as well give it a shot.
    Can't believe I'm posting this, but:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iunxIzxpWjs
    We still hang bike thieves in Wyoming [Pedal House]

  77. #177
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    I have the md50's on my mason comp. It took a while to figure out what those rims are. How do you go tubeless on a rim this wide? I dont see a kit that fits the bill. I dont like that they're pinned, but they may withstand my level of abuse.

  78. #178
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    why do you need a kit? just put a tape over the nipple holes and maybe the pinned joint (seen reports here that it might bleed air)

  79. #179
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    Is it really that simple? I keep seeing gorilla tape is good. Is there something special to the glue or the elasticity of the tape thats needed? It says they're tubeless ready, but I didnt dismount a tire yet to see if there is tape (although I doubt it).

  80. #180
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    tubeless ready means the profile is suitable to lock tire bead in place without a tube
    wouldn't count on tubeless tape being there, though - might be regular rim tape

    tubeless tape needs to be strong enough to withstand the pressure of air (which is not much in the case of 3.0 tires) and not tear spontaneously over the nipple holes or be punctured easily by the tire levers, sticky enough not to peel off when you're installing and removing the tire and not to let the sealant creep underneath it and smooth enough to facilitate the tire slipping over it when it's being installed

    There's a whole thread here on MTBR about tubeless tapes, the general consensus is that bike company branded ones are overpriced general issue strapping tapes - read the last few pages, there was instruction on how to make the tape adhere to the rim better

    gorilla tape, 3m 8896, 3m 8898, tesa 4288/4298/4289 are just as good or better as Stan's/whatever else bike brand tape
    with md50 being as wide as it is, try putting the tape just over the nipple holes first and see if the tire is loose over the bead seat (which generally prevents it from seating easily)
    if it is, add a layer of rim tape there too

  81. #181
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    as for tape, if its any help, i did some poking around and have been using a vinyl tape as detailed here with great success - caveat - non ammonia sealant.

  82. #182
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    Quote Originally Posted by udelslayer View Post
    Is it really that simple? I keep seeing gorilla tape is good. Is there something special to the glue or the elasticity of the tape thats needed? It says they're tubeless ready, but I didnt dismount a tire yet to see if there is tape (although I doubt it).
    Gorilla tape is heavy and the adhesive degrades with contact to sealant. i used Tyvek tape to seal my WTB Scrapers and it performs extremely well.

  83. #183
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    Quote Originally Posted by bruto View Post
    How much does Mulefut weigh with the PE tape?
    Alex MD50 is 800g and it's a proper 50mm double rim with thick spoke bed
    I wish that they made an Alex MD65 (622X65) in a 29+

  84. #184
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    for which tire?

  85. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by bruto View Post
    for which tire?
    Knard 29 x 3.0
    I have a Blackborow with lots of clearance so I have no need or desire to squeeze a 3" tire into a skinny ass 45mm Scraper, Rabbit Hole or Mulefüt.
    Last edited by FatBike&SlenderWoman; 05-10-2016 at 09:34 AM.

  86. #186
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    Quote Originally Posted by udelslayer View Post
    Is it really that simple? I keep seeing gorilla tape is good. Is there something special to the glue or the elasticity of the tape thats needed?
    3M 764

    3M General Purpose Vinyl Tape 764 Black, 2 in x 36 yd 5.0 mil (Pack of 1): Electrical Tape: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

  87. #187
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    As promised on another thread...

    ...I will share the gory details of mounting tires tubeless on 622mm v2 Hugo rims.

    I taped up the center holes on the Hugo with the recommended single layer of yellow tape and mounted a 29 x 3 Surly Knard with my bare hands using baby shampoo as a lubricant just to see how airtight it would be with no sealant.
    I then sprayed the entire wheel with shampoo/water solution to search for leaks. Needless to say, the bead of the not so tight fitting Knard foamed like a rabid dog.

    So, off comes the Knard and onto the 29 x 2.8 Vee Speedsters.
    Let me just say that a Speedster is EXTREMELY tight on a Hugo. So much so that after a few petitions to the almighty for condemnation of the aforementioned tire, I actually checked the sidewall to verify that I in fact had a 29 tire and not a 27.5!

    Anyway, after destroying a couple of flat levers, I brought out the new Prestalevers and after much tugging and a few more curse words, it popped into the groove on the rim. Flip it over...repeat.
    These beads are so tight sitting in the inside channels of the rim that I suspect that they could easily be seated using the little hand pump clipped to seat tube of my road bike but I did use a compressor. The final pop was heard around 30psi.

    The perk in all of this is that Vee Speedsters on a Hugo do not leak (NO SEALANT REQUIRED) but after submerging the wheel in a tub of water and witnessing air bubbles pouring out from around the valve stem in a manner reminiscent of the aerator in the bottom of my aquarium, it became clear that the pinned seam on Stan's (the defacto god of tubeless) NoTubes Hugo is NOT air tight. Who'd a thunk?

    So, more grunting to remove tire, rip the 28mm yellow tape off, seal the entire seam and pins with gap filling CA adhesive. (Pay no attention to the silicon sealant in the photo...CA seals a lot better.)
    Notubes Hugo 52mm Rim-img_6803.jpg

    After further review: I would not recommend using Tyvek tape to cover nipple holes on boxed rims like the Hugo.
    At 30 psi., the tape over the nipple holes will eventually stretch and blow out.
    To remove Tyvek, one has to immerse the rim with hot water in order to soften the adhesive enough to prevent tearing while slowly pulling off the tape.
    After much scrubbing with various solvents and detergents, the rims still remain sticky with residue but I guess that is okay because the new tape is sticking very well.
    Retape with a 1" wide strapping tape of choice such as Tesa 4289. No need to tape the entire seam...just tape over the nipple holes. Tires and levers will never come in contact with the tape. If you plan on running tire pressures in excess of 15 psi like me, I would strongly recommend doing two laps of tape around the rim. It is only 3.5g per lap...7g total.
    Notubes Hugo 52mm Rim-img_6806.jpg

    Finished taping, install valve stem.
    Notubes Hugo 52mm Rim-img_6810.jpg

    Paint the bead with some automotive bead sealer or use a 60ml syringe available in the vet supply isle at Fleet Farm or local farm co-op. No need to remove valve core, just go ahead and inflate.
    Notubes Hugo 52mm Rim-img_6813.jpg

    ...and (as the automotive industry figured out decades ago) I am now able to run 30psi w/no leaks and no sealant.
    Notubes Hugo 52mm Rim-speedsterhugo.jpg

    Click on photos for higher resolution.
    Last edited by FatBike&SlenderWoman; 02-11-2017 at 01:55 PM. Reason: Tyvek tape sucks

  88. #188
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    Pinned rims are such a joy
    Had a similar story (multiple reinstallation, retaping and silicone sealant) with Alex MD50 except the tire (Bomboloni) goes on and off with bare hands yet still seats nicely with a floor pump

  89. #189
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    Quote Originally Posted by bruto View Post
    tubeless ready means the profile is suitable to lock tire bead in place without a tube
    wouldn't count on tubeless tape being there, though - might be regular rim tape

    tubeless tape needs to be strong enough to withstand the pressure of air (which is not much in the case of 3.0 tires) and not tear spontaneously over the nipple holes or be punctured easily by the tire levers, sticky enough not to peel off when you're installing and removing the tire and not to let the sealant creep underneath it and smooth enough to facilitate the tire slipping over it when it's being installed

    There's a whole thread here on MTBR about tubeless tapes, the general consensus is that bike company branded ones are overpriced general issue strapping tapes - read the last few pages, there was instruction on how to make the tape adhere to the rim better

    gorilla tape, 3m 8896, 3m 8898, tesa 4288/4298/4289 are just as good or better as Stan's/whatever else bike brand tape
    with md50 being as wide as it is, try putting the tape just over the nipple holes first and see if the tire is loose over the bead seat (which generally prevents it from seating easily)
    if it is, add a layer of rim tape there too
    8898 did not work very well for me. It would be better if it had a little more stretch to stay in the channel. Anybody know of a retailer that is selling single rolls of tesa 4289.

  90. #190
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    ebay? tesa 4289 | eBay
    not quite as cheap as 8898, though

    I would like to say that didn't have any problems with the 3M tape as long as I stuck to single layer at the bead shelf
    It has enough stretch to stick to the rim (channel or not) and stay put, the problem is insufficient adhesion to itself which causes the top layer to shift and fold into wrinkles when installing/removing the tire
    If you think that a single layer is not enough to withstand air pressure over the nipple holes, then cut a narrower strip which is just enough to cover them, then another layer of full width over that. That's what I did, works for me.

  91. #191
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    Quote Originally Posted by bruto View Post
    ebay? tesa 4289 | eBay
    not quite as cheap as 8898, though...
    ...It has enough stretch to stick to the rim (channel or not) and stay put, the problem is insufficient adhesion to itself which causes the top layer to shift and fold into wrinkles when installing/removing the tire
    If you seal the entire seam and pins with a gap filling CA adhesive and spray with a CA accelerator (available at any hobby shop) prior to taping, you just need to tape the center channel over the nipple holes with a 1" wide tape which will prevent any tape contact with tires or levers.

    Quote Originally Posted by bruto View Post
    ...If you think that a single layer is not enough to withstand air pressure over the nipple holes...
    Yes, two layers is highly recommended when running pressures in excess of 15 psi. Then apply some CA at the end of the second layer to keep tape secure. (rubber tire patch cement works with Tesa 4289)

  92. #192
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    I'm confused here. I have a set of V2 27.5 Hogo's that set up tubeless without issue. Just a thin layer of tape in the middle over the spoke holes and that's it. Weird that people are having so many issues.

  93. #193
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    Quote Originally Posted by FatBike&SlenderWoman View Post
    Knard 29 x 3.0
    I have a Blackborow with lots of clearance so I have no need or desire to squeeze a 3" tire into a skinny ass 45mm Scraper, Rabbit Hole or Mulefüt.
    What did you end up with?

    Any idea what the widest 29er rims available are? Is it the Hugo and Alex at about 50mm inside width? I couldn't find anything bigger.

  94. #194
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeny View Post
    I'm confused here. I have a set of V2 27.5 Hugo's that set up tubeless without issue. Just a thin layer of tape in the middle over the spoke holes and that's it. Weird that people are having so many issues.
    If you are running lower pressures with sealant, that will work fine.

    Running dry at 30 psi requires the pins and entire seam to be sealed otherwise there will be bubbles in the pond.

  95. #195
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    Quote Originally Posted by FatBike&SlenderWoman View Post
    If you are running lower pressures with sealant, that will work fine.

    Running dry at 30 psi requires the pins and entire seam to be sealed otherwise there will be bubbles in the pond.
    Gotcha. Next question, why are you running them dry? I've never heard of anyone running tubeless tires without sealant.

  96. #196
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeny View Post
    What did you end up with?

    Any idea what the widest 29er rims available are? Is it the Hugo and Alex at about 50mm inside width? I couldn't find anything bigger.
    I am running Speedsters on Hugos (scroll up to post #187)
    I am still looking/waiting for a 65-622 rim for the Knards.
    Fatlab has the widest (51-622) rims currently available in the US.
    Fatlab 29x55 - FatLab bicyclesFatLab bicycles

  97. #197
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeny View Post
    Gotcha. Next question, why are you running them dry?
    Because I can!...no, seriously The tires are Vee Speedsters which are extremely tight on a Hugo hence no leaks. (See post #187 above for details)
    Knards leak all over the place so they will need some sealant.
    I am using the bike primarily as an urban commuter bunny hopping curbs, pot holes and railroad tracks so I am not concerned about rocks, thorns etc.

    Quote Originally Posted by bikeny View Post
    I've never heard of anyone running tubeless tires without sealant.
    The automotive industry figured it out decades ago. Now, the bike tire industry is just starting to get on board with their touring tires. Schwalbe has a few MicroSkin products featuring sealed casings that do not require sealant (Marathon Supreme comes to mind).
    The Vee Speedsters are pretty airtight. There is some minimal bubble weeping around the lettering that will require topping off the air once/week. I suppose an ounce or two of sealant would take care of that.

    I wonder if spraying the inside of the casing with Scotchgard would seal that? It works great at sealing fabric and paper.
    Last edited by FatBike&SlenderWoman; 09-14-2016 at 09:07 AM. Reason: grammer :)

  98. #198
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    Xtreme Carbon Rim 622 X 85mm

    Quote Originally Posted by bikeny View Post
    What did you end up with?

    Any idea what the widest 29er rims available are? Is it the Hugo and Alex at about 50mm inside width? I couldn't find anything bigger.
    Xtreme Carbon 622 x 85mm
    Xtreme Alloy 622 x 96mm

    (Click on images to zoom)
    Bud/Clown Shoe next to Xtreme Warrior/Xtreme Carbon rim
    Notubes Hugo 52mm Rim-budknardortho.jpg

    29 x 3.0" Knard on Xtreme Carbon rim
    Notubes Hugo 52mm Rim-knardxtremecarbon.jpg

    Warrior and Knard side by side on Xreme Carbon rims
    Notubes Hugo 52mm Rim-warriorknard.jpg
    Last edited by FatBike&SlenderWoman; 02-11-2017 at 07:05 AM.

  99. #199
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    Anybody heard of Xtreme Fat Tire Bikes? Feedback? Are you TommySea? Those wheels must be very balanced.
    Quote Originally Posted by FatBike&SlenderWoman View Post
    Xtreme Carbon 622 x 85mm
    Xtreme Alloy 622 x 96mm

    (Click on images to zoom)
    Bud on Clown Shoe next to Xtreme Warrior tire on Xtream Carbon rim
    Click image for larger version. 

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    29 x 3.0" Knard on Xtreme Carbon rim
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Warrior and Knard side by side on Xreme Carbon rims
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    ptarmigan hardcore

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    Quote Originally Posted by Co-opski View Post
    ...Are you TommySea?
    No, that was a cheap Fat Bike company that was in business about seven years ago, different owner, no longer in business.
    Xtreme Fat Bikes is out of Florida making all wheel drive e-bikes and breaking speed records with their Xtreme Fat sand bikes.
    I am in Wisconsin commuting in the snow/slop along with weekend fat bike races.

    Quote Originally Posted by Co-opski View Post
    ...Those wheels must be very balanced.
    They are if you install your speedo magnet opposite the valve stem.

    After a year of searching and pleading with rim manufacturers to build a 622 rim wider than 50mm so I could run Knards as a fast winter commuter wheelset, I found the Xtreme Carbon 85mm rim along with the wider, more aggessive Warrior tire. Each wheel is 2lb lighter than a tubeless Bud/Lou/Clown Shoe while maintaining identical outside diameter. So Bud/Lou are now kept on standby for slogging through the occasional school closing snow storm or mashed potato races should the need arise.

    I ran the Xtreme wheelset last weekend at an event which consisted of 21 miles of mixed snow and ice crossing a plowed lake.
    Running with no studs, I am usually hesitant to clip in with these kind of conditions but after the first 100 yards of no skidding, I clipped in for the duration. Since I was one of the last to launch in a field of 300 bikes, I ended up passing at least 40 bikes that where running studded Dillingers...so I'm sold. On to the Birkie! (weather permitting)
    Last edited by FatBike&SlenderWoman; 02-13-2017 at 11:31 PM.

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