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  1. #301
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    Looks like a High Roller, they go up to 2.35 XC/Trail, though if that's the downhill tyre it could be 2.5 or 2.7.

    That should be looking pretty chunky
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  2. #302
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    thanks ozzy! certainly looks like a high roller with the ramped centre bits, though it looks huge! my 29er versions look pretty anaemic in comaprison!>...sweet!

  3. #303
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    Stock Nomad HRII 2.35 i think? a slight slight more squared off profile.. will hopefully get out on them tonight. Need to do another round of tensioning though I think...


    Quote Originally Posted by dRjOn View Post
    icdesign: what tyre is that? it looks mahoosive!.....nice wheels!
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  4. #304
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    what valves are you guys using for tubeless setup,don't want to use valve extenders

  5. #305
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    Hey there guys, I've got few questions,I just ordered a pair of Nexties and I'm going to build them with Hope Fatsnos 135/190, so the front spoke lenght is 244mm right, what would be a spoke lenght for the rear 190 hub?
    Also when building the wheelset did you use the washers in between the nipple and the rim?
    And the last one, the alloy nipples or the brass nipples, which is better?
    Thanks

  6. #306
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    I plan on using whatever works. I have easy access to Stan's valves, but not knowing the length required just yet I am not 100% sure if they will work. Will have to see.

    I am having mikesee build mine, so I'm letting him handle spoke selection, but mine are 150/177, anyway. He didn't mention anything to me about using washers, but I am going with his advice as far as the build. He recommended brass nipples for me.

  7. #307
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    Just saw this thread...those are HAWT

    Just getting into fat bikes. These are on my wishlist down the road (singletrack?)...probably in the UD matte black for stealth look.

    Quote Originally Posted by rczarnecki View Post
    These are setup tubless, used Gorilla tape. Had to use a tube to get the tire seated first. Took out tube and setup after that was pretty easy. Used 4oz of Stans in each. Have held air for 2 days now.
    Attachment 903218

  8. #308
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    Mine shipped a few days ago..... Cannot wait to see them! It's been like early Xmas lately....

  9. #309
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    The "Jungle Fox" is now available! Not bad a 500g a piece. $521 for a set shipped to the west coast U.S. Who's gonna be a test mule; I'm considering it.

    [Jungle Fox] Carbon Fat Bike 29+ Rim 50mm Width Double Wall Hookless Tubeless Compatible
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  10. #310
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    Read my mind, exactly the question I had!

  11. #311
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    ^about to order up a pair. What is the advantage or disadvantage of running the offset spoke holes? That's not for the surly offset is it?
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  12. #312
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    Quote Originally Posted by appleSSeed View Post
    ^about to order up a pair. What is the advantage or disadvantage of running the offset spoke holes? That's not for the surly offset is it?
    Same question here. I actually sent them an email a little bit ago asking about it. I'll post up if they answer.

  13. #313
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    Someone can chime in with more tech knowledge, but basic answer is the spokes can be close to same length. and more or less same tension...Applies to your spoke angles from the hub..

    Quote Originally Posted by appleSSeed View Post
    ^about to order up a pair. What is the advantage or disadvantage of running the offset spoke holes? That's not for the surly offset is it?
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  14. #314
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    Quote Originally Posted by icdesign View Post
    Someone can chime in with more tech knowledge, but basic answer is the spokes can be close to same length. and more or less same tension...Applies to your spoke angles from the hub..
    Cool thank you. So if I'm running a singlespeed rear hub there is no need (in the rear)? Maybe one offset in the front?
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  15. #315
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    Quote Originally Posted by icdesign View Post
    Someone can chime in with more tech knowledge, but basic answer is the spokes can be close to same length. and more or less same tension...Applies to your spoke angles from the hub..
    My question was if they are all offset in the same direction or alternating like many fatbike rims. Your statement is true if they are all offset in the same direction, correct?

  16. #316
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    I believe you only have to worry about offset lacing if you have an offset 135 frame, or a Lefty..... But since the rim is fairly narrow and rim profile higher in the middle, regular lacing should work and the wheel is dished accordingly.

  17. #317
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    The 90mm rims I believe are alternating offset 3, I expect because of the spoke angles. I expect the same is an option on the 65 for those using a wide flange diameter hub.

  18. #318
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    Yes this is likely the case. I guess we'll find out from Brain soon enough!

    Quote Originally Posted by genefruit View Post
    The 90mm rims I believe are alternating offset 3, I expect because of the spoke angles. I expect the same is an option on the 65 for those using a wide flange diameter hub.
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  19. #319
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shark View Post
    Mine shipped a few days ago..... Cannot wait to see them! It's been like early Xmas lately....
    Here's hoping mine ship soon!

  20. #320
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    Quote Originally Posted by mortenste View Post
    what valves are you guys using for tubeless setup,don't want to use valve extenders
    Using normal length WTB valves, there's only a little bit sticking out but enough to connect a pump and digital pressure gauge.
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  21. #321
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    I just heard back from Nextie. They said they can do centered drilling, alternating 3mm offset, or 3mm offset all to one side.

    I just ordered a pair, hoping to be riding them in a few weeks. I got 32h centered at the advice of the guy who will be building them up and knows a sh!t load more about this stuff than I do, MC. UD, Matte with glossy stickers, stealth!

  22. #322
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    Can anyone advise if i am planning on using a 2013 lefty and need to offset the front wheel a bit to clear a Knard (5-8.5mm can't remember) what drilling I should get? Rear is SS so
    I'll just do center drilling on that.

    Thank you!
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  23. #323
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    Low latitude winter (and jungle!) mode.


    <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-f01mTCuEWP8/U_lavrrtO2I/AAAAAAAAqVw/edMeQcJXUs8/s1600/_MG_7877.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-f01mTCuEWP8/U_lavrrtO2I/AAAAAAAAqVw/edMeQcJXUs8/s1600/_MG_7877.jpg" /></a><br


    <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vwdTTCGY83Y/U_lax0qottI/AAAAAAAAqV4/xAQMLwlYR9E/s1600/_MG_7852.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vwdTTCGY83Y/U_lax0qottI/AAAAAAAAqV4/xAQMLwlYR9E/s1600/_MG_7852.jpg" /></a><br


    <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g3IrDXTDzvA/U_lazxBIlsI/AAAAAAAAqWA/jU3h4eb0F84/s1600/_MG_7845.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g3IrDXTDzvA/U_lazxBIlsI/AAAAAAAAqWA/jU3h4eb0F84/s1600/_MG_7845.jpg" /></a><br


    Interesting that in the last ~3+ months of collecting dust the tires have wept sealant but not (that I can tell) air. I'll worry about that in November...

  24. #324
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    That's a good looking bike !
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  25. #325
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee View Post
    ...Interesting that in the last ~3+ months of collecting dust the tires have wept sealant but not (that I can tell) air. I'll worry about that in November...
    [/CENTER]
    Where are they weeping sealant at? In the last picture it looks like they are weeping at the bead? I changed tires on some V.2 carbondales yesterday and had to repeatedly step pretty hard on the tire to break the bead loose yet one of them weeps a very small amount. I don't think it will be a winter issue at all, based on what I've seen in past winters. I think I could ride the Carbondales with no air in snow and not have the tires come off of the rims.

  26. #326
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    Quote Originally Posted by alphazz View Post
    Where are they weeping sealant at? In the last picture it looks like they are weeping at the bead? I changed tires on some V.2 carbondales yesterday and had to repeatedly step pretty hard on the tire to break the bead loose yet one of them weeps a very small amount. I don't think it will be a winter issue at all, based on what I've seen in past winters. I think I could ride the Carbondales with no air in snow and not have the tires come off of the rims.
    Yep, at the bead, and they are the same in that you have to stand on the bead to break it loose.

  27. #327
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    Paint the bead with some Mold Builder Latex, works a treat to stop leaky beads.
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  28. #328
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    Front 65mm wheel laced late last night. Sometime today need to tension it up, but my kids may have other plans. 90mm rims have been nothing but impressive (V2). I too plan on winter ultras, have full confidence at this point. Should have wheel done tonight, maybe tire installed. Phone does not want to upload pic.
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  29. #329
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    Built my sweetie a set of the 90's:

    <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/fMU0iN7NMJalNOOmzokrBc_IhJ_sda_iuQ0XjcsGci0?feat=e mbedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-uHJPjTjStqY/U_vig9mJENI/AAAAAAAAqXY/8y5ueIXwgZE/s800/P8243548.jpg" height="455" width="800" /></a>

    Pic taken yesterday, before the mudfest began in earnest.

    It's a ride I only do ~once every ten years, because I'm just not that into mud these days. Especially thrashing the bike and having to clean it up afterwards.

    That said, it's one of the very few non-snow rides I'll do that pretty much requires full fatties at near-snow psi's.

    Good stuff.


  30. #330
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    Went tubeless with bud and lou on nextie 90mm rims this week.

    I used used a single wrap of stans yellow tape with around 6 inches of overlap around the valve stem hole. It was pretty narrow yellow tape, whataver I had left over from setting my 29er up tubeless. This means that it was just barely wide enough to cover the slightly offset spoke holes. At first I thought the narrow tape might be a problem because all my other tubeless setups have full width tape, sidewall to sidewall. However, seeing what stans is doing with there new hugo rim, I decided to give the narrow tape a try. It just needs to stay stretched tight around the center channel or the rim.

    The bud and lou tires sealed incredibly well. They were installed with tubes then one side was broken loose to remove the tube. An air compressor and a bit of water as lubricant was necessary to get it to seat again with that second side. Immediately it held air pretty well with only a few spots oozing small bubbles. 4 oz of stans per tire sealed the bead with almost no leakage.

    Actually, the tires fit so tightly that installation and removal takes more time than usual. The tire bead has to be slowly pried loose all the way around, about 2mm at time. After it is fully moved off the bead shelf toward the center of the rim, only then can a tire lever be inserted under the bead enough to pop it over the rim's sidewall.

    The bead seat is that tight. Here are a couple photos of how tight that bead seat is. There is absolutely no chance of the bead rolling off when running tubeless. It's almost impossible just to shove tire lever in there, let alone actually unseat the bead. You could ride around for hours on a 100% flat tire and it would never come close to slipping off the bead. This is great for tubeless... as long as you don't need to fix a flat at record setting time.

    Nextie-Bike carbon rims-10641220_10202512623925090_5874825795377372541_n.jpg

    Nextie-Bike carbon rims-1395130_10202512623685084_6963560408572662915_n.jpg

  31. #331
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    Interestingly, after a low-pressure soft-surface (read: mud) ride last week, I hosed the rims clean before hanging the bike back up. Zero weepage since. None.

  32. #332
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    Lay the wheel down on the none disk side, step on the sidewall (have to do this a few times). That is how I have been doing it.

    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    Went tubeless with bud and lou on nextie 90mm rims this week.

    I used used a single wrap of stans yellow tape with around 6 inches of overlap around the valve stem hole. It was pretty narrow yellow tape, whataver I had left over from setting my 29er up tubeless. This means that it was just barely wide enough to cover the slightly offset spoke holes. At first I thought the narrow tape might be a problem because all my other tubeless setups have full width tape, sidewall to sidewall. However, seeing what stans is doing with there new hugo rim, I decided to give the narrow tape a try. It just needs to stay stretched tight around the center channel or the rim.

    The bud and lou tires sealed incredibly well. They were installed with tubes then one side was broken loose to remove the tube. An air compressor and a bit of water as lubricant was necessary to get it to seat again with that second side. Immediately it held air pretty well with only a few spots oozing small bubbles. 4 oz of stans per tire sealed the bead with almost no leakage.

    Actually, the tires fit so tightly that installation and removal takes more time than usual. The tire bead has to be slowly pried loose all the way around, about 2mm at time. After it is fully moved off the bead shelf toward the center of the rim, only then can a tire lever be inserted under the bead enough to pop it over the rim's sidewall.

    The bead seat is that tight. Here are a couple photos of how tight that bead seat is. There is absolutely no chance of the bead rolling off when running tubeless. It's almost impossible just to shove tire lever in there, let alone actually unseat the bead. You could ride around for hours on a 100% flat tire and it would never come close to slipping off the bead. This is great for tubeless... as long as you don't need to fix a flat at record setting time.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I proudly ride for these guys.

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  33. #333
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    .....This means that it was just barely wide enough to cover the slightly offset spoke holes..

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Did you get the "center drilled" or 3mm "offset"?
    edit: I see that the offset is only offered as an option for the 65mm. Must be center drilled.

  34. #334
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    Quote Originally Posted by bme107 View Post
    Did you get the "center drilled" or 3mm "offset"?
    edit: I see that the offset is only offered as an option for the 65mm. Must be center drilled.
    The 90mm rims have 3mm offset spoke holes meaning the hole centers are spaced 6mm apart. They use centered lacing but each hole is offset, alternating between sides.

  35. #335
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    Get some porridge down your necks you blokes... after messing with tapes and popping tyres on/off dozens of times, a squeeze with the hands takes a tyre off now on both sets of rims.

    Just finished building my "yellow" wheels back up with black brass nipples.
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  36. #336
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    I must not have enough porridge. Unseating these bud and lou requires strenuous prying and not with one of those wimpy plastic tire levers.

  37. #337
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    So has anyone built up a set of the 50mm 29+ rims yet? Very interested in hearing some real world feedback.

  38. #338
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    I must not have enough porridge. Unseating these bud and lou requires strenuous prying and not with one of those wimpy plastic tire levers.
    dfiler I wouldnt even try a tyre lever, the design of the rims mean there is no hole below the bead to get the lever under. Foot on tyre or localised squeeze seems to be the best way.
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  39. #339
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    My yellow Nextie 65mm rims are on their way!

  40. #340
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozzybmx View Post
    dfiler I wouldnt even try a tyre lever, the design of the rims mean there is no hole below the bead to get the lever under. Foot on tyre or localised squeeze seems to be the best way.
    I normally do that but with the tires I have and these rims, not even that works. It is necessary to use a lever, not under the rim, that's impossible. But instead, inserted between the sidewall and the the tire and then twisted. This moves it away from the sidewall enough that it can then be moved by normal methods such as by hand or foot. That's what my pictures were of, merely standing on the sidewall or pulling by hand was not enough. Perhaps my tires are a bit tighter than average.

    Even my steel beaded DH tires are easier. They require metal levers but the levers do work in the normal way.

  41. #341
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    my rims ready for shipping
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Nextie-Bike carbon rims-10660736_1548725785347637_2063918508_n.jpg  

    Nextie-Bike carbon rims-10647810_1548725758680973_1858896519_n.jpg  


  42. #342
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    I normally do that but with the tires I have and these rims, not even that works. It is necessary to use a lever, not under the rim, that's impossible. But instead, inserted between the sidewall and the the tire and then twisted. This moves it away from the sidewall enough that it can then be moved by normal methods such as by hand or foot. That's what my pictures were of, merely standing on the sidewall or pulling by hand was not enough. Perhaps my tires are a bit tighter than average.

    Even my steel beaded DH tires are easier. They require metal levers but the levers do work in the normal way.
    Possibly tighter indeed. I have not tried my Buds yet as the spiderless wolftooth on my Middleburn cranks had a massive offset, 12mm IIRC inwards and on a sketchy downhill the nobby bud grabbed the chain and sucked it under the chainstay, this scares the sh1te out of a bloke

    Got a Next SL cranks now so should be good for buds again, will try them after the desert race in a few weeks.
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  43. #343
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    Definately interested in hearing more about this desert race
    It's all about the firecuts

  44. #344
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    Those red 65's look sweet Mortenste !

    Here you go Andy Race Overview | Desert Challenge
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  45. #345
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    Thank you ozzy :-)

  46. #346
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    What Hubs/spokes/nipples ?
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  47. #347
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    Tune fatkong, dt revolution and dt alloy nipples

  48. #348
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    Nice ! Those Tune are good looking hubs... bit of bling.

    Beware of water getting inside the "nipple chamber" when running alloy nipples, I just stripped my first set and replaced them with brass nipples. The second set were built with CX rays and brass nipples from the start.

    Even after only about 6 weeks I had some fur appearing on the nipples, caused by water (saltwater in my case) getting trapped inside the double wall cavity.
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  49. #349
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    I normally do that but with the tires I have and these rims, not even that works. It is necessary to use a lever, not under the rim, that's impossible. But instead, inserted between the sidewall and the the tire and then twisted. This moves it away from the sidewall enough that it can then be moved by normal methods such as by hand or foot. That's what my pictures were of, merely standing on the sidewall or pulling by hand was not enough. Perhaps my tires are a bit tighter than average.

    Even my steel beaded DH tires are easier. They require metal levers but the levers do work in the normal way.
    These levers are made for tubeless motorcycle tires because of this very issue:



    I have tried 2 levers next to each other, and twisting one, and rotating the lever tangent to the rim - but these work much better. You still have to work your way along a section of bead, but it goes quickly once you get the levers inserted the first time. Pricey, but if you need them in the middle of nowhere - priceless. Probably a bit much for bicycles, but the idea could be adapted.

    There's also this cheaper tool:

    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

    WSS/OSS: Open Source Sealant

  50. #350
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    Anyone try these yet on a fatboy? If so which width rim are you running, and any issues with tubeless?

  51. #351
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    What a race ya got coming up there Ozzy! wow
    Looks like fun!
    It's all about the firecuts

  52. #352
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozzybmx View Post
    Those red 65's look sweet Mortenste !

    Here you go Andy Race Overview | Desert Challenge
    See ya there mate :-)

    (getting very nervous about my inadequate training...)

  53. #353
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    Interested in opinions regarding offset drilled spoke holes on the 65 mm rims. My thought is to get offset both sides for the front and offset one side only for the rear to help with dishing. These will be installed on Borealis hubs. Or do i get center drilled and just deal with it? Ha, or just go with 90s? Also any links to good spoke calculators would be appreciated.

    Thanks

  54. #354
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    Re: Nextie-Bike carbon rims

    Quote Originally Posted by radair View Post
    Interested in opinions regarding offset drilled spoke holes on the 65 mm rims. My thought is to get offset both sides for the front and offset one side only for the rear to help with dishing. These will be installed on Borealis hubs. Or do i get center drilled and just deal with it? Ha, or just go with 90s? Also any links to good spoke calculators would be appreciated.

    Thanks
    I asked brian at nextie. He said center drilled is fine for 150/170 symmetrical spacing but offset was necessary for 190. Not sure about asym builds or 135 front.

  55. #355
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    Quote Originally Posted by tri-tele View Post
    So has anyone built up a set of the 50mm 29+ rims yet? Very interested in hearing some real world feedback.
    Just go notification that mine shipped. Supposed to be 4 to 7 days shipping. They are going straight to MC for the wheelbuild, so it will be another 2 weeks or so until I have them.

  56. #356
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    Sweet! Post some pics up once you have them back from MC. What are you using for hubs?

  57. #357
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    I want to see some more pictures!

  58. #358
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    Set of 65mm arrived today.Just waiting for spokes

  59. #359
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    What did the set weight?

  60. #360
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    940g

  61. #361
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    pics when you mount those up! interested in those very rims for my bike, their 29 plus as well..
    two wheel livin'..

  62. #362
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    Quote Originally Posted by zeb View Post
    940g
    Hmm about 80 grams lighter than advertised ,nice :-)

  63. #363
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    I need to assemble the nextie rims with 15*150 and 12*177 XD freewheel on my beargrease carbon.
    I cannot find online hubs with these lenght and xx1 compatibility
    Any advice ?

  64. #364
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    Quote Originally Posted by mortenste View Post
    Hmm about 80 grams lighter than advertised ,nice :-)
    Oops here is pic on more accurate scale which shows 961g,and just for reference side by side with clearcoted version(belongs to another fatbiker).


  65. #365
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    thank you

  66. #366
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    FYI, paint/clearcoating adds weight. Mine weigh 510g each roundabout, so about 1020g for the pair. They're too heavy for my more accurate scale (which tops out at 500g) so I had to use my less accurate fish scale.

    My yellow 65mm Nexties arrived this morning, too. I got matte graphics on glossy rims.





    Off to Mikesee in the next couple of days for the build with my Hope Fatsno hubs.



    tcianca, the Hope Fatsno hubs are available as such. This is what mine are, and Hope makes an XD freehub body version of the rear hub. Salsa Conversion hubs are also available this way. I'm sure others are, too.
    Last edited by Harold; 09-03-2014 at 10:57 AM.

  67. #367
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    65mm rims have been solid like the 90's. Once again really stiff, seemingly strong, and a solid beadlock. Mine weighed in around 475 each I believe. May have been closer to 450.

    I proudly ride for these guys.

    My blog.

  68. #368
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    Nice bike,nice rims :-)

  69. #369
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    Got my Nextie 50mm "Jungle Fox" 29+ rims today in the mail. I order on Aug 25th and they shipped on Sep 3rd.

    They look great and measure true to advertised size, but a little heavier. Not that it's a big deal, but they were 515/517 grams. The finish is a bit nicer on the inside than on any L-B rims I've used. I won't be able to build them until I get the hubs and get back from work at the end of the month. Have hubs to build for my Gnavester, but have decided to go with the Borealis Echo since I like the 29+ and the idea of full fat on the same bake later.

    Here are some pics of them. I put them next to the Knards and Derby wide rims.









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  70. #370
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    I like those white rims!!.....dang!

    Quote Originally Posted by Logantri View Post
    65mm rims have been solid like the 90's. Once again really stiff, seemingly strong, and a solid beadlock. Mine weighed in around 475 each I believe. May have been closer to 450.


  71. #371
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    the wheel set finished,come in at1665 grams
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Nextie-Bike carbon rims-img_20140909_194249.jpg  


  72. #372
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    My Jungle Fox 29+ rims were delivered as well, although not to me, to Mike C. for building. He weighed them at 525 and 529, so a little heavier than yours. Mine are matte with glossy stickers, maybe the stickers add 10 grams! I should have the finished wheels sometime next week, can't wait! Being built on DT Swiss hubs. These are going on my Gnarvester, should drop a bunch of grams from my current setup. But I'm most exited about running these tubeless, hopefully my current 120tpi Knards aren't too beat up to seal. Currently running tubes and after years of running Stan's rims on all my MTBs, was not happy about it!

  73. #373
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    Nextie-Bike carbon rims-img_2014091238738.jpg

    My lefty wheel arrived today from MikeC.
    Now the question..... Do I save it until the bucksaw is ready?...... Not sure if I have the patience....

  74. #374
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    Looks good!! Now set it aside and wait for the BS to arrive.

  75. #375
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    Nice

    Sounds like he built/started my wheels today and they should be shipping soon. Can't wait to see mine finished.

    Quote Originally Posted by Shark View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    My lefty wheel arrived today from MikeC.
    Now the question..... Do I save it until the bucksaw is ready?...... Not sure if I have the patience....

  76. #376
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    Nextie-Bike carbon rims-img_2014091236352.jpg
    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Looks good!! Now set it aside and wait for the BS to arrive.
    I have no patience.... Riding it tomorrow

  77. #377
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    Center or offset 65mm for Beargrease?

    Quote Originally Posted by NateHawk View Post
    I asked brian at nextie. He said center drilled is fine for 150/170 symmetrical spacing but offset was necessary for 190. Not sure about asym builds or 135 front.
    OK, I asked Brian at Nextie should I order center or offset drilled 65mm rims for my carbon Beargrease with 142 and 170 rear hub, and he suggested offset. Thoughts? Advantages? Disadvantages? I'd like to get these ordered this weekend.

  78. #378
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  79. #379
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    Re: Nextie-Bike carbon rims

    Quote Originally Posted by Gilboy View Post
    OK, I asked Brian at Nextie should I order center or offset drilled 65mm rims for my carbon Beargrease with 142 and 170 rear hub, and he suggested offset. Thoughts? Advantages? Disadvantages? I'd like to get these ordered this weekend.
    Shrug. I dunno. He told me either would work.

  80. #380
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    Do you have run rim tape inside the nextie wheel to run tubeless? Has anyone put some nexties on a fatboy yet? Im curious to hear what the weight savings are

  81. #381
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    I put one round with tape.

  82. #382
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    Quote Originally Posted by mortenste View Post
    I put one round with tape.
    what kind of tape?

  83. #383
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    50 mm duct tape.

  84. #384
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    Quote Originally Posted by barry1me View Post
    Do you have run rim tape inside the nextie wheel to run tubeless? Has anyone put some nexties on a fatboy yet? Im curious to hear what the weight savings are
    Yes, you have to put tape on to seal the spoke holes. It only needs to be wide enough to cover the spoke holes, so the width depends on the drilling I guess. Most people seem to use either Gorilla tape or Stan's or similar.

  85. #385
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    Jungle Foxes have arrived!

    Received my Jungle Fox wheelset from MC, looking good! They are matte with glossy stickers and built up on DT 240 rear and 370 front hubs. Weight are 850 front and 973 rear complete with tape and valves. It's going to be a couple of days until I get them mounted up, as this wheel upgrade is being accompanied by a drivetrain upgrade as well. Hopefully have it up and running this weekend.
    Nextie-Bike carbon rims-nextie-1.jpgNextie-Bike carbon rims-nextie-2.jpgNextie-Bike carbon rims-nextie-3.jpgNextie-Bike carbon rims-nextie-4.jpg

  86. #386
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeny View Post
    Received my Jungle Fox wheelset from MC, looking good! They are matte with glossy stickers and built up on DT 240 rear and 370 front hubs. Weight are 850 front and 973 rear complete with tape and valves. It's going to be a couple of days until I get them mounted up, as this wheel upgrade is being accompanied by a drivetrain upgrade as well. Hopefully have it up and running this weekend.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    nice man...congrats...are these the 65mm width?

  87. #387
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    Quote Originally Posted by barry1me View Post
    nice man...congrats...are these the 65mm width?
    No, these are the 29+ 50mm wide rims.

  88. #388
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    Quote Originally Posted by barry1me View Post
    Do you have run rim tape inside the nextie wheel to run tubeless? Has anyone put some nexties on a fatboy yet? Im curious to hear what the weight savings are
    I used one wrap of 25mm Stan's tape to seal the spoke holes on my 90mm Nexties and it seems to be sufficient. No leaks and mounting the tire was easy.

  89. #389
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    Quote Originally Posted by nlongfx View Post
    I used one wrap of 25mm Stan's tape to seal the spoke holes on my 90mm Nexties and it seems to be sufficient. No leaks and mounting the tire was easy.
    good to hear...which hub did you use? Any chance of weighing it yet?

  90. #390
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    Quote Originally Posted by barry1me View Post
    good to hear...which hub did you use? Any chance of weighing it yet?
    Front one was built with Paul WHUB and Sapim Laser spokes and 14mm alloy nipples. Built weight was 1035g.
    I built the rear one last night but was so anxious to get the tires mounted that I forgot to weigh it before mounting the tire. I calculated the weight for the rear to be 1165 with the same spokes and 170mm Hope FatSno hub.

  91. #391
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gilboy View Post
    OK, I asked Brian at Nextie should I order center or offset drilled 65mm rims for my carbon Beargrease with 142 and 170 rear hub, and he suggested offset. Thoughts? Advantages? Disadvantages? I'd like to get these ordered this weekend.
    Straighter spoke line from rim to hub.
    It doesn't matter what I ride as long as I ride it Rubber Side Down●~●.

  92. #392
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    Quote Originally Posted by nlongfx View Post
    Front one was built with Paul WHUB and Sapim Laser spokes and 14mm alloy nipples. Built weight was 1035g.
    I built the rear one last night but was so anxious to get the tires mounted that I forgot to weigh it before mounting the tire. I calculated the weight for the rear to be 1165 with the same spokes and 170mm Hope FatSno hub.
    good info, Im guessing that is close to 300g savings per wheel vs stock.

  93. #393
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    i received my jungle fox rims today. 4 days from china to west tn not bad. and it was 4 days to process the order. the customer service experience with Brian has been awsome. my rims both weighed 515g. i built the rear today using sapim race 278mm spokes with 16mm brass nips on novatecs new factor hub and it weighs 1125g minus tape and valve. the front should be in the 900g range. ill build it tomorrow. so far im really happy them. they are not quite as stout as derbys comparing them side by side. derbys bead locking hump is more pronaounced and the side walls being 3mm thick are beefier as well. other then that they look like blown up derbys.

  94. #394
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    Quote Originally Posted by barry1me View Post
    good info, Im guessing that is close to 300g savings per wheel vs stock.
    Yeah, I dropped about a pound and a half or more with this wheelset and the minimal rim tape needed for tubeless. The Mukluk is down to 26.9 lbs now. Will be about a half pound lighter in winter too when I switch the tires from Knards to my lightweight studded Dillingers.
    Nextie-Bike carbon rims-photo-3-.jpg

  95. #395
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    Here they are harvesting some Gnar! Only time for a quick 5 mile loop but they ride great. Definitely accelerate better then my dually stans combo and the added volume is a plus.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Nextie-Bike carbon rims-20140920_075406.jpg  


  96. #396
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    so, if running these tubeless what valves do people use

    anyone found / used a schrader valve and drilled them out for it to fit?

  97. #397
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    Quote Originally Posted by cozz View Post
    anyone found / used a schrader valve and drilled them out for it to fit?
    Don't... don't do that.

    Any tubeless presta valve with a removable core will work. You can even cut a presta valve out of a punctured tube and use that, as long as it's long enough and has a removable core. Even if it doesn't, though that makes it a lot easier.
    The correct number of bikes one should own is N+1, where N is the number of bikes currently owned.

  98. #398
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    why in the hell would you want to use a schraeder valve, anyway?

  99. #399
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    Quote Originally Posted by NateHawk View Post
    why in the hell would you want to use a schraeder valve, anyway?
    I don't understand why anyone would want to use a presta valve.

  100. #400
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    Quote Originally Posted by alphazz View Post
    I don't understand why anyone would want to use a presta valve.
    * self sealing - no cap to lose (the cap they come with is just to prevent punctures during shipping
    * smaller hole - stronger rim
    * removable center core for faster air flow for seating tubeless tires
    * can inject sealant through the valve without breaking the bead if you remove the core
    * threaded body means you can tighten the valve core against the rim - I don't know how you'd even do this with Schrader
    * lighter?
    The correct number of bikes one should own is N+1, where N is the number of bikes currently owned.

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