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  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee View Post
    Not that I'm defending this bike in any way, but people can do a lot if they change their minds. We're conditioned by bike shops, magazines, blogs, etc... to think of weight as being mission critical, but it really isn't.

    Some of the best, most memorable rides I've ever had have been on bikes weighing 75# or more. The single most memorable trip I'll ever do had my bike weighing 150# at the start.
    So you would ride the Iditarod on this Costco bike?

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    So you would ride the Iditarod on this Costco bike?

    Not what I said. Quality is different from weight, I think even you can understand that on some level.

  3. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee View Post
    Not that I'm defending this bike in any way, but people can do a lot if they change their minds. We're conditioned by bike shops, magazines, blogs, etc... to think of weight as being mission critical, but it really isn't.

    Some of the best, most memorable rides I've ever had have been on bikes weighing 75# or more. The single most memorable trip I'll ever do had my bike weighing 150# at the start.
    ^^ This. To go in a slightly different direction, for some people who are just starting out, and for whom fitness may be, ahem, a challenge, their own weight will have a far larger impact than the bike's weight. The market for people buying Costco bikes is not *us*. It's people for whom a bike may never have before been a pathway to physical fitness (this may indeed be their first *ever* pathway to physical fitness). No one who buys a bike at Costco will likely go to a bike shop and drop anywhere north of $500 on anything. But if buying a Costco bike gets them to drop some weight, get more physically fit, and get them to love biking, then maybe they go from the Costco Pig to something better, and by doing so, everyone benefits. Can't see how that's a bad thing. As long as they put the forks on the right way.

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by baltobrewer View Post
    ^^ This. To go in a slightly different direction, for some people who are just starting out, and for whom fitness may be, ahem, a challenge, their own weight will have a far larger impact than the bike's weight. The market for people buying Costco bikes is not *us*. It's people for whom a bike may never have before been a pathway to physical fitness (this may indeed be their first *ever* pathway to physical fitness). No one who buys a bike at Costco will likely go to a bike shop and drop anywhere north of $500 on anything. But if buying a Costco bike gets them to drop some weight, get more physically fit, and get them to love biking, then maybe they go from the Costco Pig to something better, and by doing so, everyone benefits. Can't see how that's a bad thing. As long as they put the forks on the right way.
    I think mine weighs in at 49Lbs, I've put a few hundred miles on it, trails only. The past 3 winters have been much more fun. Wanna see my 6pack?

    Anything that gets people out and about is a plus. Without a full set of tools though these bikes can be a bit of a challenge.

    New Low at Costco-unnamed-2-.jpg


    I am however looking at that Framed Montana FS as a new summer bike, bit of a step in the lighter direction will be cool too.

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by baltobrewer View Post
    ^^ This. To go in a slightly different direction, for some people who are just starting out, and for whom fitness may be, ahem, a challenge, their own weight will have a far larger impact than the bike's weight. The market for people buying Costco bikes is not *us*. It's people for whom a bike may never have before been a pathway to physical fitness (this may indeed be their first *ever* pathway to physical fitness). No one who buys a bike at Costco will likely go to a bike shop and drop anywhere north of $500 on anything. But if buying a Costco bike gets them to drop some weight, get more physically fit, and get them to love biking, then maybe they go from the Costco Pig to something better, and by doing so, everyone benefits. Can't see how that's a bad thing. As long as they put the forks on the right way.
    well said.


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  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee View Post
    Not that I'm defending this bike in any way, but people can do a lot if they change their minds. We're conditioned by bike shops, magazines, blogs, etc... to think of weight as being mission critical, but it really isn't.

    Some of the best, most memorable rides I've ever had have been on bikes weighing 75# or more. The single most memorable trip I'll ever do had my bike weighing 150# at the start.
    I don't doubt any of this as a clyde who's no weight weenie.

    That said, weight can matter. I can't imagine hauling big box heavy metal through the rockgardens here in hilly PA. It would suck.

  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtb411 View Post
    A whole calliphate of mtbr fanatics are going nuts right now because their precious "elite" "pro" 1X drivetrains are showing up on f$cking walmart and costco garbage $150 and $300 bikes LMFAO!!!!

    Now the mtbr cult will go BACK to 2X and 3X!

    A fad is a fad.
    Yeah I don't think that's what's happening here at all.

  8. #108
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    There's a difference between a heavy bike and a heavy bike that is a pile of junk (parts won't hold up or are of south lousy quality that one gets a bad taste from relatively little experience).
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrtimo View Post
    I got the northrock xc00 aluminum frame fat bike at costco last week. That's the bike that weights 35 lbs. $299 + tax
    I think my pugsley is up around 45#. Original DH large marge rims don't help I don't think...

  10. #110
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    Right, so there are 2 bikes at Costco. The problem is, in store, they probably only have one or the other. Online they don't even list the steel frame. The "Bronco" which is steel frame, lower quality drivetrain, weighs a good 45+ lbs. It is $199.
    Then there is the Northrock xc00 aluminum frame, shimano altus drivetrain, velo saddle and grips, KMC chain, and tektro mechanical disc brakes. It is 35lbs, and either $299 in store or $369 online (shipping included). For the money, it isn't a bad setup. I picked up the Northrock for my middle schooler who wanted a fat bike and something better than his current crappy BMX he has had for years. I certainly wouldn't take it over my Mukluk, but consider the cost. And I certainly wasn't going to spend more than $500 for a bike for a middle schooler who is still growing. I don't think you can find a better fatbike for anywhere near the price of the Northrock, and for many people, it will be all they ever need.

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beasley View Post
    Right, so there are 2 bikes at Costco. The problem is, in store, they probably only have one or the other. Online they don't even list the steel frame. The "Bronco" which is steel frame, lower quality drivetrain, weighs a good 45+ lbs. It is $199.
    Then there is the Northrock xc00 aluminum frame, shimano altus drivetrain, velo saddle and grips, KMC chain, and tektro mechanical disc brakes. It is 35lbs, and either $299 in store or $369 online (shipping included). For the money, it isn't a bad setup. I picked up the Northrock for my middle schooler who wanted a fat bike and something better than his current crappy BMX he has had for years. I certainly wouldn't take it over my Mukluk, but consider the cost. And I certainly wasn't going to spend more than $500 for a bike for a middle schooler who is still growing. I don't think you can find a better fatbike for anywhere near the price of the Northrock, and for many people, it will be all they ever need.
    Stop being factual and logical on the internet. It's not allowed.
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  12. #112
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    The problem I see with this bike (really all department store bikes) is that they are not targeted at people like anyone on this forum. They go to people who have no idea that the bike is cheap or that it was assembled by someone who assembles grills for minimum wage. The danger is when you take your sweet new Costco bike with the fork on backwards and that has never seen a torque wrench and rip it down the cool trail you found on trail forks. Who knows, the bike could hold up just fine but there's a reason most department store bikes in Canada come with a sticker saying "not for off-road use"

  13. #113
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    My assumption is that this bike is not sold assembled and has copious disclaimers that suggest you pay a professional $200 to assemble your $300 bike or you will likely die and we are not even remotely responsible if that happens.
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

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  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dexter-01 View Post
    The problem I see with this bike (really all department store bikes) is that they are not targeted at people like anyone on this forum. They go to people who have no idea that the bike is cheap or that it was assembled by someone who assembles grills for minimum wage. The danger is when you take your sweet new Costco bike with the fork on backwards and that has never seen a torque wrench and rip it down the cool trail you found on trail forks. Who knows, the bike could hold up just fine but there's a reason most department store bikes in Canada come with a sticker saying "not for off-road use"
    As far as I know, Costco doesn't even offer an assembly service for the bike. They didn't offer me one. You can either do it yourself, or if you are not inclined, a bike shop will do it for $75 (no hydraulics, pretty straight forward build). I don't see how the Northrock is any different from buying something from bikes direct. The spec is a bit lower than what they sell, but so is the price. As long as you know what you are getting.
    Honestly, I expect the bike would hold up just fine for the trail use a novice might be willing to take it on. It's pretty simple components. 1x7 and rigid with mechanical disk brakes.

  15. #115
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    Northrock Bike is sold mostly assembled. I assembled it last week:
    All of the brake/shifter cables were already good to go, all you have to do is:
    Put on quick release front wheel
    Handlebars
    Reflectors
    Pedals

  16. #116
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    When I walked into that Costco, it was the tire sticking out that caught my eye. The sheer surprise at seeing an actual fat bike there, for $200 no less, is why I posted. But maybe the title suggested snobbery on my part that I didn't intend. Just wanted to share my surprise.

    It is this forum I'd credit with getting me into fat bikes. I lurked for a few years but in 2011, pulled the trigger on a Fatback. To some extent, it was because none of my LBS's were interested in building a Pugsley. I was and remain a clydesdale (265) and a robust wheelset was at the foundation of what I needed. That particular advice came from this forum. It holds true. I also knew that was going to cost some $$. Conversations with folks at Speedway mentioned plenty of big AK guys riding UMA wheels without any issues and I pulled the trigger. Peter Basinger actually built that bike and shipped to me. And it remains a superb build to this day. Did I get my $$ worth? Hell yes. Did the market for fats explode since then? Hell yes. No regrets however.

    But I still wanted a pugs. When a nice green single speed showed up in cl last summer, I checked it out just to ride but and loved it from the get go. The medium frame fit me great and I thought the spousal unit might like it too - justification for a 2nd fat. 100 miles convinced me single speed was too much on aging knees however, so I got an Alfine 8. I love this setup now and and ride it the most. My wife likes it too, so both bikes get ridden.

    The person buying that $200 bronco may not read this forum or much care to for that matter. It would be a cheap ride for beach week vacations or for a kid's first fat bike. But if they stay interested in the bikes, they would do well to visit here for the wealth of information and experience that resides. Especially with regards to upgrades...
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  17. #117
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    In for long-term reviews.

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheMachinist View Post
    In for long-term reviews.
    I bought this thing after looking it over thoroughly in Costco (probably no other store I'd feel comfortable taking everything apart like I did!). Just some perspective as to where I'm coming from, I rode a walgoose as my 'winter beater' commuter for 2 years and was fine with that for what it was after a set of $40 used panaracer fat-b-nimbles and some DH tubes, which shaved a couple pounds off the weight.

    The northrock is a different beast. Pretty much everything is a substantial upgrade from my old hitch. Aluminum frame. Sealed bottom bracket. Everything was greased, and all bolts were tightened properly. Brakes are crisp and surprisingly, dialed in from the factory. Not as good as the bb7's on my main rig but there was a decent amount of stopping power (enough to lock up both wheels from a decent roll) Metal brake levers (yay, no more plastic!). No more grip shifters, and shifting was actually perfectly dialed in out of the box, which was also pretty surprising. Much better packaging (there was even a plastic 'spacer' in the fork- didn't have to bend it back into shape like I did with the hitch)

    The 7 speed freewheel is probably the biggest downfall of this bike, although for $300 I don't see how you can exepect anything other than the most basic wheelset. If they last through a winter of commuting, I'll be happy.

    I didn't expect to, but I'm actually considering trying some decent wheels on this thing and trying out some trails. I really only wanted something that was a little bit better on the 2 miles of snowy trail back and forth to work. Anything beyond that is a bonus, but in my short time with it so far it's surprisingly well built.

  19. #119
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    Looks like a nice bike for the price. I've had and sold a dolomite and a vinson. Wish I had the vinson back. I got it for around$400 if I remember for black friday. I think it blows away any fattie under $600 personally. This northrock looks promising though. Wish I had a bigger garage
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  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by lpranal View Post
    I bought this thing after looking it over thoroughly in Costco (probably no other store I'd feel comfortable taking everything apart like I did!). Just some perspective as to where I'm coming from, I rode a walgoose as my 'winter beater' commuter for 2 years and was fine with that for what it was after a set of $40 used panaracer fat-b-nimbles and some DH tubes, which shaved a couple pounds off the weight.

    The northrock is a different beast. Pretty much everything is a substantial upgrade from my old hitch. Aluminum frame. Sealed bottom bracket. Everything was greased, and all bolts were tightened properly. Brakes are crisp and surprisingly, dialed in from the factory. Not as good as the bb7's on my main rig but there was a decent amount of stopping power (enough to lock up both wheels from a decent roll) Metal brake levers (yay, no more plastic!). No more grip shifters, and shifting was actually perfectly dialed in out of the box, which was also pretty surprising. Much better packaging (there was even a plastic 'spacer' in the fork- didn't have to bend it back into shape like I did with the hitch)

    The 7 speed freewheel is probably the biggest downfall of this bike, although for $300 I don't see how you can exepect anything other than the most basic wheelset. If they last through a winter of commuting, I'll be happy.

    I didn't expect to, but I'm actually considering trying some decent wheels on this thing and trying out some trails. I really only wanted something that was a little bit better on the 2 miles of snowy trail back and forth to work. Anything beyond that is a bonus, but in my short time with it so far it's surprisingly well built.
    Thanks for the review, I'm thinking of buying this one too -- unfortunately I'd have to pay the higher online price since none of the local Costcos carry it for me.

    I have a Northrock XC6 for around 5 years and it held up fine for me. All I replaced was a seat, but that was right off the bat.

    I wonder if a more expensive Fatty might make more sense...

  21. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by wolfstemp View Post
    I wonder if a more expensive Fatty might make more sense...
    I've ridden other guys' lower-end-but-not-quite-big-box fatbikes and I've later bought a couple more expensive ones (Specialized Fatboy Pro Trail and a 9:zero:7 Whiteout) of my own. I ride only fatbikes yearround for 25-40 miles at a shot on different terrain. There IS a difference and to me it's worth the extra $.

    As I said before, I like Costco and its quality and this bike is probably a great value for light or occasional use. I'm not sure how it would hold up to serious long-term riding.

  22. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by lpranal View Post
    I bought this thing after looking it over thoroughly in Costco (probably no other store I'd feel comfortable taking everything apart like I did!). Just some perspective as to where I'm coming from, I rode a walgoose as my 'winter beater' commuter for 2 years and was fine with that for what it was after a set of $40 used panaracer fat-b-nimbles and some DH tubes, which shaved a couple pounds off the weight.

    The northrock is a different beast. Pretty much everything is a substantial upgrade from my old hitch. Aluminum frame. Sealed bottom bracket. Everything was greased, and all bolts were tightened properly. Brakes are crisp and surprisingly, dialed in from the factory. Not as good as the bb7's on my main rig but there was a decent amount of stopping power (enough to lock up both wheels from a decent roll) Metal brake levers (yay, no more plastic!). No more grip shifters, and shifting was actually perfectly dialed in out of the box, which was also pretty surprising. Much better packaging (there was even a plastic 'spacer' in the fork- didn't have to bend it back into shape like I did with the hitch)

    The 7 speed freewheel is probably the biggest downfall of this bike, although for $300 I don't see how you can exepect anything other than the most basic wheelset. If they last through a winter of commuting, I'll be happy.

    I didn't expect to, but I'm actually considering trying some decent wheels on this thing and trying out some trails. I really only wanted something that was a little bit better on the 2 miles of snowy trail back and forth to work. Anything beyond that is a bonus, but in my short time with it so far it's surprisingly well built.
    Thanks for that. I'm really close to buying one, just for a fun bike.

  23. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by lpranal View Post
    The 7 speed freewheel is probably the biggest downfall of this bike, although for $300 I don't see how you can exepect anything other than the most basic wheelset. If they last through a winter of commuting, I'll be happy.
    BTW, since I know nothing about upgrades... can freewheels be readily upgraded or does it depend on the bike? I heard 1x11 for ideal for fat bikes in terms of range.

  24. #124
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    What most of you that are bashing this bike don't realize is that Costco has the best refund warranty. You could literally destroy this bike over the course of several years and return it for an exchange or your full money back.

  25. #125
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    I was in Costco yesterday and they were priced at $150. That starts to be really tempting but I really don't need one and already have nine bikes in the basement. I'm surprised I haven't seen any on my local trails.
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  26. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by spf808 View Post
    What most of you that are bashing this bike don't realize is that Costco has the best refund warranty. You could literally destroy this bike over the course of several years and return it for an exchange or your full money back.
    It's not the bike I'm worried about breaking. It's cheap enough not to cry over, broken bones on the other hand....

  27. #127
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    I challenge anyone to break the steel frame on that Bronco bike. I bet you can't even if you tried.
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  28. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by spf808 View Post
    What most of you that are bashing this bike don't realize is that Costco has the best refund warranty. You could literally destroy this bike over the course of several years and return it for an exchange or your full money back.
    Anyone who buys it with that in mind is a jerk. Can't stand people who do that stuff.

    We had a college professor here in town who taught business, yes business. He'd buy something from the local Trek store and return it months later for a full refund. Did it many times, used it up, then returned it, and this guy taught business at a college. How out of touch do you have to be to think that's OK?

  29. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by litespeedaddict View Post
    Anyone who buys it with that in mind is a jerk. Can't stand people who do that stuff.

    We had a college professor here in town who taught business, yes business. He'd buy something from the local Trek store and return it months later for a full refund. Did it many times, used it up, then returned it, and this guy taught business at a college. How out of touch do you have to be to think that's OK?
    I agree 100%.
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  30. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by litespeedaddict View Post
    Anyone who buys it with that in mind is a jerk. Can't stand people who do that stuff.

    We had a college professor here in town who taught business, yes business. He'd buy something from the local Trek store and return it months later for a full refund. Did it many times, used it up, then returned it, and this guy taught business at a college. How out of touch do you have to be to think that's OK?
    Agreed, that's just passing the cost to all the other consumers in the form of higher prices to cover jerks that do that.
    Quote Originally Posted by Oh My Sack! View Post
    Remember, there's always quilting and knitting if pedalling becomes too tough.

  31. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by chazpat View Post
    agreed, that's just passing the cost to all the other consumers in the form of higher prices to cover jerks that do that.
    exactly!!

  32. #132
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    Just a quick update to the review. Been riding this bike every day, to and from work for the past 5 months without a single hiccup. Made a few changes since I've decided to stick with it as my year-round commuter, should be obvious in the picture, but here are my 'upgrades':

    • vee speedster 26 x 3.5 tires. w/ 26" DH tubes - faster rolling and lighter than stock
    • knockoff ergon grips from china
    • longer stem (I'm 6'3") and riser bars. super comfortable cockpit.
    • 175mm LX cranks from my parts bin. was worried about them clearing the tires, but they had plenty of room even on the stock 4" tires. I keep the chain on the 42t big ring most days and gearing is fine even for the couple small hills I ride
    • Ibera pakrak and random snap-on fat-friendly fenders
    • Longer seatpost (new takeoff from a niner at my LBS)


    As I said it's held up great so far and is a commuting / 'urban assault' beast. I'll be switching out the tires once it snows and give this thing a go on some local trails. Based on how bombproof everything's been so far, I don't anticipate any issues, but we'll see.
    New Low at Costco-img_20171023_213434.jpg

  33. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by litespeedaddict View Post
    Anyone who buys it with that in mind is a jerk. Can't stand people who do that stuff.

    We had a college professor here in town who taught business, yes business. He'd buy something from the local Trek store and return it months later for a full refund. Did it many times, used it up, then returned it, and this guy taught business at a college. How out of touch do you have to be to think that's OK?
    basically they teach because they can't do.

  34. #134
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    You get what you pay for but a bikes only as good as it's rider. The reason I wanted a fat bike was seeing this guy ride wheelies for blocks and do all kinds of tricks in NYC and he is doing it on a 200 dollar mongoose

  35. #135
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    It's an honest bike from what I saw at Costco. I didn't ride it around, but with proper assembly and tuning it might be a good cottage/vacation home bike or commuter if you don't want to get winter road grime on your top shelf fattie. Besides, I'd rather see more of these on the trail than fat e-bikes.
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  36. #136
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    I'll consider something like that for my wife and just add her comfort seat from her townie bike.
    She won't be slamming trails or wearing it out and it'll prove to be pretty comfortable for her I think. After getting her a 700c cruiser, I switched tires to 29" x 2.0 so she felt more stable on the gravel paths.
    Going to plus or fat would be ideal and add some cush.
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  37. #137
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    Yea I bought a dolomite for my older son for the same reason he only rides around town.

  38. #138
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    The northrock XC00 has reached costco canada... $399CAD in the store. Some details worth mentioning....

    #1 decent 6061-T6 alloy frame in a 18 inch medium size (its basically same quality as the current bigfoot)
    #2 decent forged alloy square taper crank arms which are only 152mm length with a plastic bash guard and stamped/pressed steel ring
    #3 the cockpit stuff is all alloy (not steel like other cheap department store fats have been)
    #4 good quality looking QR 32H disc hubs but thread-on for freewheel, with a small range 7 speed shimano tourney freewheel
    #5 tektro mechanical discs with only 160mm rotors
    #6 narrow 60mm alloy rims running minimal XC semi-slick pattern tread wire bead kenda tires
    #7 the frame appears to be 170mm dropouts and it is a 100mm BB shell and tapered headtube. Chromoly fork appears to be 135mm spacing so upgrade potential is there. #8 Appears to have same frame clearance as an early mukluk or 907 or bigfoot but the fork has less has the Kenda Gigas 26x4.0 tires only inflated to 90mm width on those narrow rims.
    #9 There is also an unused center cable housing guide under the top tube for a hydraulic brake line, and the guides on the stays are open bosses with plastic clips. I #10 I measured the CS length at 18 inch and the actual (not horizontal) top tube at a bit over 22 inches.
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  39. #139
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    It's a reincarnation of the original Tamalpais "Klunker."
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  40. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeeEight View Post
    The northrock XC00 has reached costco canada... $399CAD in the store. Some details worth mentioning....

    #6 narrow 60mm alloy rims running minimal XC semi-slick pattern tread wire bead kenda tires
    .
    Wheels are 57mm. Mounted 26 x 4.00 panaracer fat-b-nimbles with no clearance issues.
    Last edited by lpranal; 01-24-2018 at 08:17 AM.

  41. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by lpranal View Post
    Wheels are 80mm, not 60. Mounted 26 x 4.00 panaracer fat-b-nimbles with no clearance issues.

    They're not 80mm. Well at least not the ones here in Canada now. I bought one of them today and according to my calipers the rims are 56mm outside width and 50mm inside width. And yes of course 4.0 fat b-nimbers would mount with no clearance issues... a narrower rim will squeeze the tire reducing the width but making it taller in profile.
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  42. #142
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    You're right. I actually measured them last night as I was measuring to make sure I can put these on in the summer. I think with the slim 29's this thing will actually be a great year-round commuter. I don't know why I thought they were 80mm, but I edited my post so as not to spread misinformation.

    Out of curiosity, what's the widest tire you think would fit without clearance issues? I was looking at studded tires and most of them are >4"

  43. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeeEight View Post
    The northrock XC00 has reached costco canada... $399CAD in the store. Some details worth mentioning....

    #1 decent 6061-T6 alloy frame in a 18 inch medium size (its basically same quality as the current bigfoot)
    #2 decent forged alloy square taper crank arms which are only 152mm length with a plastic bash guard and stamped/pressed steel ring
    #3 the cockpit stuff is all alloy (not steel like other cheap department store fats have been)
    #4 good quality looking QR 32H disc hubs but thread-on for freewheel, with a small range 7 speed shimano tourney freewheel
    #5 tektro mechanical discs with only 160mm rotors
    #6 narrow 60mm alloy rims running minimal XC semi-slick pattern tread wire bead kenda tires
    #7 the frame appears to be 170mm dropouts and it is a 100mm BB shell and tapered headtube. Chromoly fork appears to be 135mm spacing so upgrade potential is there. #8 Appears to have same frame clearance as an early mukluk or 907 or bigfoot but the fork has less has the Kenda Gigas 26x4.0 tires only inflated to 90mm width on those narrow rims.
    #9 There is also an unused center cable housing guide under the top tube for a hydraulic brake line, and the guides on the stays are open bosses with plastic clips. I #10 I measured the CS length at 18 inch and the actual (not horizontal) top tube at a bit over 22 inches.
    I just bought this bike (Coming from a Cevelo P3 DI2 / Giant TCX) and I am super impressed at the spec for only 400$ CAD.

    Some other points to note:

    Frame is made by Giant according to the summary blurb.
    Seatpost / Stem are all standard diameters and can be swapped out.
    Fender eyelets and bridges.
    31.8mm bar for mounting garmin / etc.

    First fatbike but it rode into the office like a champ today in -12*c.

    Previously ran 40mm studded tires during winter commuting on my TCX and felt far less secure.

    New Low at Costco-img_20180124_082455.jpg

  44. #144
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    I measured the stays at 120.6mm apart maximum near where the tire shoulders would be, so allowing for snow/mud, say 110mm width maximum inflated tire measured but that depends what rim you ultimately choose to use I suppose (if not the stock wheels). I already know that a Vee bulldozer 4.7 on a rolling daryl is 108mm inflated, while the I already know that original vee snowshoes (labeled 4.5 or 4.8 but nowhere near that, even on 100mm rims) on an Origin-8 UL60 rim to be about 90mm inflated width. The new schwalbe jumbo jim 4.4s should fit the frame on an 80mm rim but the the 4.8s would likely be too big. The air volume of the tire isn't going to change of course, its just the footprint (and thus ground pressure) that effectively changes with different rim widths.
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  45. #145
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    Anyone have some cheap suggestions for swapping out the chainring to something smaller?

    The bike is really over geared for anything uphill.

    I have easier gears on my cyclocross bike that is almost have the weight and tires that are 3x smaller

    Trying not to get upgradeitis with this bike and leave it as dirt cheap winter commuter.

    Tried to take it on some trails last night but they were solid ice...

  46. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by P90Puma View Post
    Anyone have some cheap suggestions for swapping out the chainring to something smaller?

    The bike is really over geared for anything uphill.

    I have easier gears on my cyclocross bike that is almost have the weight and tires that are 3x smaller

    Trying not to get upgradeitis with this bike and leave it as dirt cheap winter commuter.

    Tried to take it on some trails last night but they were solid ice...
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/SRAM-X1-GXP...QAAOSwokJaZPG5
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  47. #147
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    When you say original do you mean the snowshoe XL 4.8s? I found a pair locally, with studs for around $125. If I could make those work on the stock rims I'd be pretty happy.

    EDIT: both front and back fit on the stock rims with no issues was even able to make them work with my rack (ibera quick release pakrack system), just need to raise the mount an extra 'notch' by drilling a hole in the adapter. tires are about 107mm wide on the stock rims, FYI
    Last edited by lpranal; 01-27-2018 at 04:26 PM.

  48. #148
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    I mean the original snowshoes, not the XLs or 2XLs.

    As to the gearing... you can swap to either an external bearing fat bike crank setup with a single ring, or multiple rings, or keep the existing square taper BB setup and go to a square taper triple crank with replaceable chain rings (again single or multi).

    You can also swap the freewheel to a wider ranged one. I'm using a sunrace 13-32 8 speed example and an FSA V-drive crankset with 22/32/44T rings on the stock BB.
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  49. #149
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    New Low at Costco-img_20180129_083747.jpg
    Clearance is tight but workable for the XLs. I can't imagine a much bigger tire fitting, even on the stock rims. Glad it works though

    Right now I'm running some old 175mm LX cranks. I just picked up a set of fattie slim slicks from the-house.com for $119 shipped after coupon - 29 x 2.1 complete wheelsets. Swapped them out and went for a test ride when we had some warmth this weekend.

    Only issue with those is they come with a 9 speed cassette, so I'm going to bite the bullet and upgrade everything to match. Picked up a set of SLX 9 speed shifters from the bay for $35, $20 for a nice 9 speed kmc chain, and $22 for a sunrace 9 speed freewheel. When All is said and done I should hopefully have a decently performing, do-it-all supercommuter rather than a hodgepodge stable with a lot of different parts to maintain.

  50. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oh My Sack! View Post
    It's great to see that they almost installed the fork correctly.
    The one I got actually has a pair of stickers on the fork crown that say "front" and "back"
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  51. #151
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    Took the one I got completely apart down to weigh every component... the frame with upper and lower headset cups, seatpost clamp and QR is 4.2 pounds. That's lighter than my 2011 Salsa Mukluk frame was as I recall. The fork itself including the fork crown race is 4.1 pounds. Stock bar is 25.5 inches wide and 356 grams. Stock stem was 180 grams. The cartridge BB is 395 grams including crank bolts. I am debating using a take-off set of Samox cranks from a Norco bigfoot on it. Replacing the stock bar/stem with a freebie take-off Rocky Mountain labeled bar from a Blizzard, and a Bontrager RL oem stem which cost me a whopping $2, and saving about 60 grams in the process (as well as going to a 30 inch wide bar).
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  52. #152
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    Just to update on the tire situation, ended up selling the snowshoes. My rim was slightly out of true which caused rubbing. With such a tight fit any deviance or wobble causes issues. Finally got the rubbing resolved after truing the wheel, but after riding them on pavement for a couple days, and then seeing how bad the clearance is when snow starts sticking, I think 4.8 is just too much for the rear, plus those tires are S-L-O-W on pavement and definitely overkill for my commute which is usually just typical packed snow and pavement. Maybe if I can get a killer deal on some dillinger 4's when the season is done those can be my new winter tires, but for now the fat-b-nimbles I got super cheap will work just fine.

    Interesting to hear about the weights of stuff, that's really good info. Was thinking about replacing the bottom bracket for better chainline and the spindle is starting to show rust.
    Do you happen to know if the steerer tube on the fork is tapered? It looks like it would be based on the head tube, but I haven't taken it fully apart to check yet. Also thought the front width is a kinda weird width, something like 125mm... I wonder if it could be 'cold set' to take a standard 135mm wheel?

  53. #153
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    Headtube is tapered zero stack ball bearings headset with a reducer race on the fork crown for the 1 1/8 straight steerer fork. You'd need a new fork crown race to fit a tapered steerer tube fat fork as well as a different front wheel (since the stock front dropout spacing is 121mm according to my digital caliper). I wouldn't try and cold set a fork an additional 15mm of dropout spacing myself. Especially NOT a 4.1 pound fork. Be simpler to find a good used aluminum fat fork like from a bigfoot or a 9zero7 with a straight steerer also, and that would be under 2 pounds.

    As to the tire situation, original Vee Rubber Snowshoes, 120tpi silica tubeless ready's on the stock wheels inflated to 91mm width, but they fit so loose that its pointless to try and set them up tubeless as it'd require a LOT of tape layers to get these tires to fit well enough to inflate properly. A single layer wrap of duck tape was about 19 grams and covered the nipple heads adequately for the stock tubes. I would likely need two or three additional layers to come close to properly sealing for tubeless, or slicing a 24 inch tube to run as a tubeless rim strip. Or perhaps both. The stock tubes are about 450g-ish which is reasonable for the price point (I've seen far heavier tubes come stock on much more expensive fat bikes) and Q-light tubes would save about 400 grams from the bike for a lot less effort. I also tried a set of Chao Yang wire bead 4.0s but while they fit the rims better, they also weighed about 200g more (per tire) than the stock ones that came on the bike (the bulldozers are about 50-75g lighter per tire), and only inflated to 87mm which was narrower than the stock tires at 90mm.

    So far the "upgrade" has cost me...well the tires I got used a couple years ago for $40...the bar/stem was $2... 50 cents worth of duck tape...the locking grips i'm putting on were $2... the 13-32 8 speed freewheel was $30...adding a front derailleur and changing shifters is about $50..and if i go with the samox crankset of 22/32/bash and external bearing BB that'll be another $65.

    All those prices are of course... Canadian dollars. So add the original purchase of $452 and we get $641.50. Which is still several hundred less than what passes for an entry level fat in an independent dealer. Which again makes (if you can do your own wrenching and find the right bits cheaply) make this a good first fat for someone new to the sport. If you like it...great..upgrade to something fancier in a couple years maybe. If you don't...well...you're NOT out a grand for something you don't really enjoy and won't take a bath trying to resell it.
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  54. #154
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    all good info, I think I'll probably stick with the stock wheels based off your observations. I may try drilling out the stock rims this summer if I can't control my upgraditis, but I'm actually very happy with the bike as it sits. Been running lightweight DH tubes since summer without a hitch.

    Since I can't see myself going to a higher end bike for commuting, so realistically I know that I'd definitely be looking in the $1000+ range for a second dedicated trail bike. Guess I won't know if that's worth it til I take this thing on some trails... hopefully this weekend.

  55. #155
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    What kind of front derailleur would you be putting on? I have an old e-type LX front mech sitting around, that'd be pretty sweet if I could reuse that...

  56. #156
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    You need a direct mount front derailleur and a mount adapter for the wider chainline of a fat bike with a 100mm shell.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Origin8-Pro...8AAOSw86Jabjdy
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  57. #157
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    Honestly, I say we need more and better bikes at places like Costco and Walmart. The sport needs to get more people into biking. $1000+ bikes won't do it.
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  58. #158
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    I finished the rebuild of the one I bought with the following parts, and all prices in CAD $$$....

    - used samox crankset and race face X-type BB (which with 22/32 rings and a bash in a proper 175 length arms, was still about 100g lighter than the 152mm single ring crankset & bb it came with) at $75 sourced from ebay a couple weeks ago
    - New Shimano Acera shifters at $19 from local bike store clearance bin
    - New microshift XLE 2x10 front derailleur & origin-8 Direct mount clamp adapter for 100mm BB at $25 (take-offs from another bike)
    - New SunRace 13-32 8speed freewheel at $30 (ordered this myself from a supplier)
    - Used Vee Snowshoe Silica 120TPI tires at $40 I got off pinkbike
    - New Bell Cinch200 composite bottle cage at $3 (from Dollarama)
    - duck tape replacing rim strips (of course I used orange color tape, not that it can be seen inside the wheels), removed all reflectors and the kick stand
    - As new OEM take-off Rocky Mountain branded riser bar at FREE bin from local shop (which was about 35 grams lighter and 4.5 inches wider than the stock bar)
    - As New OEM take-off Bontrager RLX 90mm extension stem at $3 (I buy take-off stems in bulk...usually 40-50 of them at a time)
    - New locking anatomic palm grips at $2 (about 20 grams heavier than the stock grips which were non-locking versions of the same shape) from a local shop closeout sale
    - New EVO alloy cage pedals at $6 (boxing week sale at local shop, and 130 grams lighter than stock pedals)

    Completed the bike was exactly 35.0 pounds which is pretty good considering I added a front shifter, front derailleur, a bottle cage, better compound and tread pattern tires and 9 more speeds to the drivetrain including a much better lowest (22 to 32 vs stock 36 to 28) gear and the total investment including the $452 purchase price was a massive $655. This btw is still $145 less than the "sale" price of a Moose bicycles Fat Bike 1 (before tax), which except for having 80mm width rims and cassette rear hub, is actually in many ways spec'ed worse (what with 36H hubs, 13 gauge spokes, wire-bead Vee Rubber Mission tires and only a 1x9 drivetrain of 28T ring and 12-36 cassette). The only other "entry level" fat I've seen this year that's close in price is the Genesis Cycles The Judge which an ontario dealer advertised at $599 (which including tax would be $677) and is claimed to be 33 pounds but I don't buy that claim as it has a heavier wheelset, tires, and drivetrain. It also going from the only photo I can find, much longer chain stays (like you find on beach cruiser fats).

    Also I measured the geometry of the 18 inch seat tube frame as 23 inch effective top tube, 69 deg head and 74 deg seat angles, 18 inch chain stays, 42.8 inch wheelbase, 45mm fork offset, and 3.9 inch length head tube. The stock stem length was 60mm and the stock bar was 25.5 inches wide. The Moose Fat Bike 1 is the same angles, has a longer straight ZS44mm cup headtube (for which you'd need a different lower external cup headset assembly to fit a tapered steerer fork), has a third of an inch shorter stays, 6mm more fork offset, less than an inch more effective top tube length
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  59. #159
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    Costco canada website now has the Northrock listed. $420 delivered is what I'm seeing in Ottawa, so only $20 more than what I paid for one at the store.
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  60. #160
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    DeeEight's bike is now for sale on Kijiji and Pinkbike for $850 CAD and $750 CAD respectively

    https://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details...equestSource=b

    https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2327863/
    Mike
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    Scott Solace 10 Disc

  61. #161
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    Kijiji gets listed higher because folks there historically don't grasp what "firm" means... they take it as an insult if they're not allowed to offer ridiculously lower so I always pad prices there significantly over what I would actually accept which in this case in the price on pinkbike (which covers my costs and my labour). Pinkbike has the simple "price is firm" check box option as well as the "no trades" option one. I've already had folks on kijiji try and trade me a dirt bike, a guitar, and a cactus for the fat bike.
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  62. #162
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    Is it a nice cactus?

    A friend listed a spare graphics card for sale on Kijiji. Among the offers for trade he received was a drone (quadcopter with cam). He said no. A few days later, same guy contacts him again: will you trade for the computer I traded the drone for?
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  63. #163
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    Yeah that's likely a stolen drone and stolen computer then is my thinking...just like the stolen cactus...
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  64. #164
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    upgrading fork...

    This is probably quite a noobish question, but I figured I'd post here in case it helps anyone that wants to do the same in the future.

    Finally got around to (attempting) to put the fork I got from a Farley off facebook marketplace. It came with a lower bearing that unfortunately doesn't fit inside the headtube, and the new fork (being tapered) obviously doesn't fit inside the 'cup' / bearing for the stock fork.
    Took some pics, I'm used to dealing with standard 1 1/8 external bearing / cup headsets but this tapered stuff is outside my wheelhouse:

    Everything 'assembled'. Doesn't want to fit.

    'stock' lower bearing


    cartidge bearing from the farley fork:


    Hoping there is just a different bearing I can just get from the LBS tomorrow... there's a snowstorm on the way and I just got a new wheelset (mulefut SL 80s with 3.8 hodags, tubeless!)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails New Low at Costco-img_20180304_202108.jpg  


  65. #165
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    Looks like the headtube has an integrated headset, whereas the Farley likely uses a pressed in cup. Can you post a picture of the bottom of the headtube without the fork in it and also measure the bottom ID of the headtube?


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  66. #166
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    Only paid $20 for the fork so it's not a huge loss if it doesn't work, just means I gotta find another one that will so I can fit my new wheelset.

  67. #167
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    Yes, looks like an integrated headset. You need a bearing that is sized for the ID of the headtube. You may need to replace the crown race on the fork as well. Your LBS should be able to hook you up. You can also determine the headset you need here: https://blue.canecreek.com/headset-fit-finder. You can buy the lower headset separately from the top, or sets that include both.


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  68. #168
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparkman999 View Post
    Yes, looks like an integrated headset. You need a bearing that is sized for the ID of the headtube. You may need to replace the crown race on the fork as well. Your LBS should be able to hook you up. You can also determine the headset you need here: https://blue.canecreek.com/headset-fit-finder. You can buy the lower headset separately from the top, or sets that include both.


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    thanks! Fortunately there are two really great LBS's within walking distance of work (I'm spoiled that way)

  69. #169
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    Got bike today. LBS couldn't find a headset that'll fit... looks like I'll just have to go to a straight steerer fork.

  70. #170
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    Quote Originally Posted by lpranal View Post
    Got bike today. LBS couldn't find a headset that'll fit... looks like I'll just have to go to a straight steerer fork.
    What is the ID of the lower race in the head tube and what is the OD of the bottom of the steerer tube of the fork (the part where the crown race sits). You may have to pull the existing crown race off to get a proper measurement. I'm 99.9% sure there would be something available online that works.

  71. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparkman999 View Post
    What is the ID of the lower race in the head tube and what is the OD of the bottom of the steerer tube of the fork (the part where the crown race sits). You may have to pull the existing crown race off to get a proper measurement. I'm 99.9% sure there would be something available online that works.
    The fork itself fits within the head tube, just not with the 'integrated' lower cup in place. The ID of the bottom of the head tube is just a hair over 50 mm
    https://i.imgur.com/uddwRPd.jpg

    the tapered Farley 5 fork I have is a standard 1.5" (38mm) at the bottom near the race.

    EDIT: Did some double checking on the measurement, it could be the cheap harbor freight caliper I'm using, but it seems like it's in between 49 and 50mm? Maybe time to go to a diff bike shop?

  72. #172
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    Remove the lower bearing and fork crown race from the Trek fork. All you need is a 1.5 steerer fork crown race for a standard 1.5 lower caged ball bearing headset cup with pretty standard 5/32 bearings. The stock fork includes a reducer for its straight steerer fork to fit into the lower 1.5 bearing assembly of the headset it comes with. Stop trying to adapt a completely different bearing setup that came with a used fork to fit a frame that already has a proper 1.5 taper headset in it.
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  73. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeeEight View Post
    Remove the lower bearing and fork crown race from the Trek fork. All you need is a 1.5 steerer fork crown race for a standard 1.5 lower caged ball bearing headset cup with pretty standard 5/32 bearings. The stock fork includes a reducer for its straight steerer fork to fit into the lower 1.5 bearing assembly of the headset it comes with. Stop trying to adapt a completely different bearing setup that came with a used fork to fit a frame that already has a proper 1.5 taper headset in it.
    I thought it seemed odd the shop couldn't make it work considering how well everything 'seemed' to fit together (without the Trek bearing, of course). Maybe I'll bring it into the other shop and see if I can get that other crown race, unless you have a link to one? I googled around a bit and couldn't find exactly what you're looking for. Like I said earlier I really don't have any experience with tapered forks so this is all new to me. Thanks for all your help!

  74. #174
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  75. #175
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    Yes that's the part.
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  76. #176
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    So I finally got a chance to get a better look at everything and I'm fairly certain there's no way to make a tapered fork (at least not the one I have...) work using just the part I posted. At least on my bike (mine is a *US* model, so it's possible its different from the canadian bikes), the integrated headset is the reducer and is too narrow diameter for the bottom of the tapered steerer to fit through... I made a diagram to illustrate the situation. Red is the stock 'reducer' / integrated headset cup, White arrows are pointing to the 'problem' spot. New Low at Costco-jg9dztd.png

    I believe an external lower headset would be the only way to go, so I've ordered one of these https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cane-Creek-...0AAOSwhfdad9qA

    The only discrepancy is the diameter of the cup- 49.6mm is just slightly narrower than what I measure the opening of the headtube at, but my hope is that it's tall enough to get a good tight fit since the tube is tapered. Probably possible to 'shim' the cup too if need be, though I'm not sure how good of an idea that is.

    Easy enough to return / resell if it doesn't work.

  77. #177
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    I think this is the part you need to fit a tapered fork in a straight 1 1/8" head tube on the bike frame:

    Cane Creek 40 Series EC44/40 Bottom Cup | Jenson USA
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  78. #178
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Fithian View Post
    I think this is the part you need to fit a tapered fork in a straight 1 1/8" head tube on the bike frame:

    Cane Creek 40 Series EC44/40 Bottom Cup | Jenson USA
    the head tube on this frame isn't straight though, and it's not 44mm at the bottom opening. the EC49 was the closest in size I could find

  79. #179
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Fithian View Post
    I think this is the part you need to fit a tapered fork in a straight 1 1/8" head tube on the bike frame:

    Cane Creek 40 Series EC44/40 Bottom Cup | Jenson USA
    The frame is a tapered head tube with a tapered headset that has a reducer fork crown race. All it needs to run any tapered steerer fork is the correct fork crown race for the lower bearings that come with the headset.
    I don't post to generate business for myself or make like I'm better than sliced bread

  80. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeeEight View Post
    All it needs to run any tapered steerer fork is the correct fork crown race for the lower bearings that come with the headset.
    That's actually not true for this bike, at least not for the U.S. Model. See my diagram above. Without the reducer in place, the bearings (green in my diagram) have nothing to sit against except the inside of the top tube. Unless I'm missing something.

  81. #181
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Fithian View Post
    I think this is the part you need to fit a tapered fork in a straight 1 1/8" head tube on the bike frame:

    Cane Creek 40 Series EC44/40 Bottom Cup | Jenson USA
    That's the piece to convert a 44mm cup head tube to work with a tapered steerer tube. It moves the bearing from inside the frame to outside it.
    I don't post to generate business for myself or make like I'm better than sliced bread

  82. #182
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    These have proven such a hot seller for costco canada that the website has them back-ordered to mid-April now, and the price has gone up there to $449.
    I don't post to generate business for myself or make like I'm better than sliced bread

  83. #183
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    So the bottom cup I ordered is exactly 1mm too small. I grabbed my tin snips and some sheet metal and made a shim, and with the shim it's exactly the right diameter. However I'm not sure if that's the route I want to go. The fatback fork I ordered (straight steerer) comes tomorrow, so I could just as easily go back to stock, and resell the Farley fork.

    The farley fork is about 1.5" longer than the 'stock' one, so if the fatback fork is closer in length I think that will make it an easy call.

  84. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeeEight View Post
    These have proven such a hot seller for costco canada that the website has them back-ordered to mid-April now, and the price has gone up there to $449.
    Nowhere to be seen on the U.S. site... looks like this bike has joined MEC, milk in a bag and universal healthcare in the "awesome and cheap things Canada has that we can't" category

  85. #185
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    Was it ever on the US site? I don't recall seeing it there, but I saw it in the store last year...once.

  86. #186
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    Quote Originally Posted by leaftye View Post
    Was it ever on the US site? I don't recall seeing it there, but I saw it in the store last year...once.
    they were at one point; however I just noticed they're off the canadian site now, too.

  87. #187
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    The Northrock XC00 is back on the US site and I have one on the way. I'm planning on adding a rear rack. Do you guys see an easy way to attach the bottom of the rack? I can't tell if there's a good mounting point on the left side with that kickstand in the way.

  88. #188
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    Probably have to remove the kickstand in order to install a rack there since I believe it uses both the attachment points on that side. might be able to make something work with a longer bolt and possibly a washer.

    If you do go the rack route, just know you'll probably have to use p-clamps (or clamp on braze ons) since there are not attachment points on the seatstay, unless you have the kind (or fabricate some kind of adapter) that uses the single hole in between the stays.

    Hope this makes sense, I can provide pictures if needed. Only thing I would caution is wheel upgrading - since the wheels are offset, standard 135 / 170 wheels may not fit. I was able to dish my mulefuts off to one side, but didn't really like it that way so I've moved on to a ritchie commando for my fat bike. Still keeping the northrock as a dedicated commuter with the fattie slims and the stock fat wheels for the odd snow commute.

  89. #189
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    Hopefully it's under the kickstand. I have a seat clamp waiting to attach the top of the rack. Good call on the wheels. I was planning to build them, so it's a good thing I know to take more care in planning before I start ordering parts.

  90. #190
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    Looks like spacing is 135 front / 170 rear and 100 mm BB.

    Limited to 4" tires?
    Last edited by Paul Fithian; 04-02-2018 at 06:43 AM.
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  91. #191
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Fithian View Post
    Looks like spacing is 135 front / 170 rear and 100 mm BB.

    Limited to 4" tires?
    front space isn't standard, it's like 123ish mm. If you want to use 135 wheels you'll either need to take spacers out of the hub (depending on the hub) or get a new fork

    The rear is 170. I'd say max tire size on stock rims with a reasonable amount of clearance is 4.6. I had a set of vee snowshoe XLs (4.8) on mine, but they rubbed at higher pressures and during hard acceleration / braking.

  92. #192
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    Quote Originally Posted by leaftye View Post
    Hopefully it's under the kickstand. I have a seat clamp waiting to attach the top of the rack. Good call on the wheels. I was planning to build them, so it's a good thing I know to take more care in planning before I start ordering parts.
    Dug out the kickstand today, definitely uses those attachment points, but since the mounting holes go all the way through, you SHOULD be able to mount the rack to the outside of that with a longer bolt.

    New Low at Costco-img_20180402_175716.jpg

  93. #193
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    Thank you for doing that. That's real good news. I might have to make a spacer, but that's not a big deal at all.

  94. #194
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    lpranal, it's been a long time since the last update about your fork swap. How's it going?

    I'm finally back, so it's time to start getting my bike together.

  95. #195
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeeEight View Post
    The air volume of the tire isn't going to change of course, its just the footprint (and thus ground pressure) that effectively changes with different rim widths.
    Sorry, that is incorrect. A wider rim absolutely increases the tire volume. Consider the cross section of the tire as a circle. Adding rim width is llke adding circumference to the circle. More circumference is akin to more area, thus more volume. Google volume calculation for a torus.

    Also narrowing a rim does not raise the height of a tire. The height is largely governed by the circumference of the tire. Just like above, as the rim narrows, the circumference gets smaller. As circumference gets smaller, so does the diameter. The height is is similar to the diameter. Granted, tires are not perfect circles, but they are reasonably close.

    Here is an image that shows the concept:

    Last edited by BlueCheesehead; 04-18-2018 at 09:08 PM.

  96. #196
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    Quote Originally Posted by leaftye View Post
    lpranal, it's been a long time since the last update about your fork swap. How's it going?

    I'm finally back, so it's time to start getting my bike together.
    I gave up on the tapered fork and found a straight steerer 135 fork that's been working well: Fatback Rigid Steel Fatbike Fork 1-1/8" 135mm 9mm QR | Bikewagon.com

    (ended up getting it for around $50 shipped from an eBay coupon)

    I actually ended up grabbing one of the ritchie commando frames from merlin cycles (200 shipped from the UK!) so the northrock is now my commuter and the commando is my 'fun' bike. N+1 I guess. The only thing left to do is space the hubs out to 135mm on the stock wheelset since the 'nice' wheels (mulefut SL 80s) are now on the commando. Having the ability to swap everything is nice, I can go 29+ on the commando if I feel the need.

  97. #197
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post

    Just remember, coffins don't come with pockets for all the cash you saved.
    They sell coffins at Costco too. Just sayin'.
    Bikes, lots'o bikes

  98. #198
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    It's in my local US Costco now at $300 versus $370 on their website.

  99. #199
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    I just put together a Northrock for a friend after seeing it at my local Costo I recommended him to get to. The verdict: it's a solid all around mtb with solid parts. I would suffice it to say it's a Giant without the Giant branding. My only complaint is the Altus drivetrain doesn't provide enough range for the average beginner mountain biker to be able to climb. 9.8/10
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    2013 Scott Genius SL
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  100. #200
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    I was just in the Costco in Sanatoga, PA. They have the Northrock fatbike for $299.

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