Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 59
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    68

    Mukluk2 front shifting issues-2013

    I have a 2013 Mukluk 2. It shifts poorly or not at all in the front. It has been adjusted several times, and seems as good as it will get. 22-36 e thirteen crankset, Sram x7 direct mount frt derailleur with a Problem Solvers standoff for the 100mm bottom bracket. Stock KMC 10 speed chain. Sram x7 triggers. - Reading Srams website, the face of the mount for the derailleur is to be 43.5 mm from the centerline of the frame. Not so on the Muk2-it's about 40mm(I need a more exact read to get a better #). Likewise, 6-7mm from the face of the bottom bracket to the face of the derailleur mount, but on the Muk2, it's close to 11.5 mm. Ok, when one shifts, the derailleur binds on itself and won't complete the shift. To complicate the matter, Salsa has spec'd the 45t standard cage front derailleur instead of the(correct?) 38t compact cage front derailleur. This combination does not play well together. What is everyone else doing? Living with this clusterf _ _ _? Or fixing it? Or is mine the only one? This 2x10 setup should shift very sweetly, not after a fashion. Thanks for any help. PS.... Salsa tech was rude and no help. This over a phone conversation -"I didn't know what I was talking about" - and when I called him on his attitude through several emails, he said "salsa could spec whatever it wanted and he didn't have to talk to me anymore". Oh well, no loss there.

  2. #2
    Big "T"
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    369
    I've been having this exact same problem with e Thirteen XCS cranks and the 36-22 integrated double rings that were sold with the cranks on fatbikes.com

    I'm running XTR front deraileur and XT chain with an XT cassette and XTR rear deraileur.

    I had half a dozen incidents (two of them the first two days I rode the bike) where what you described happened when trying to shift down to the 22t ring. At first I thought is was the deraileur adjustment. But I found that no matter how I adjusted the deraileur it did this, especially if there was any torque at all on the chain when shifting, or if my pedal cadence was low. After closer inspection we found that there was a section of teeth that weren't allowing the chain to downshift. If the deraileur hit the chain while it was over those teeth, it would jam.

    For the past week just stopped shifting down to the 22t. I was thinking about turning it into a 1x10.

    After less than twenty rides on the bike, though, the 36t ring is unrideable. It started experiencing horrible chainsuck the other day. Stand and put a lot of torque into the cranks and it wraps around the ring. All the chain drops have severely gouged up my Beargrease frame. I've bent up my deraileur hanger, my rear XTR deraileur and the other day my XTR Front deraileur was ruined when the chainsuck started. The bike has only cold or dry rides. No mud, and all the other components mounted with it were brand new at the time of the build.

    I do not believe this is an issue with Salsa, Sram or Shimano. IMO either there's an issue with the machining of the teeth on the rings, or the ring is too wide for a 10sp chain.

    the one sure thing is that I won't buy from eThirteen anymore.

  3. #3
    29er
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    771
    ouch, no what i want to hear as i get ready to buy a muk 2

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    68
    What you describe is the opposite of what I am experiencing. My problem is upshifting to the 36. I'm sorry if I wasn't clear. From what you say, I would raise the front derailleur on the mount. It just sounds like it's too low. The teeth on all big rings vary in height to help the shift take place. If the derailleur is adjusted on the low teeth, it can be too low for the high part of the ring. Then it would bind. I'm sorry to hear about the frame damage. That hurts. I too see a lot of wear on the big ring of the ethirteen crank. I was surprised at that. I am currently just using it as a single up front because of the shift issue. I have a Specialties TA 28 tooth 64bcd small ring that is working very well-after I relieved a bit of the mounting boss(es) so they wouldn't contact the bottom bracket!

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    68
    I also have an On One Fatty. Way happier with that bike. On the Mukluk 2, if you have the ability, or a good friend who can, it is advisable, if you need the Salsa thing, to buy just the frame and fork. Then put on the parts you want. The price is almost the same, and you'll get stuff that works. If you don't need the Salsa bs(blog stories), buy the 9.0.7 - $599-great stuff and similar to the Mukluk, made in Taiwan, or for the USA made frame a Fatback at $800. This one has a higher bottom bracket than the 907 or the salsa. IMO the taller the person, the lower the bottom bracket should be. If you're 5'9"(highly subjective #) or shorter the On One Fatty or the Fatback would be the way to go. For my money, if you are over 6' , a lower bb makes sense. 907 or -choke-salsa. I know, some people have other reasons for a higher bb. I understand and agree. It's all subjective. Happy Riding!!! and FAT RULES !

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    105
    Muk 2-stock build- no issues with front shifting. Not sure what to tell you guys, but if you need any pictures of the setup, I'd be happy to take some.

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    68
    I know some of them must shift ok. There are many out there-even more muk3's, which have the same set-up I think. If yours is the same spec as mine I would be curious to know which front derailleur you have. If you could look at the back of the cage there is a # for max chainring teeth stamped there. It's probably the same as mine, but it may be different. Let's find out! And are you running the MRP bash guard that came with it? If one removed the bash guard, it would, in effect, move the derailleur closer to the crankset. Thanks!

  8. #8
    Big "T"
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    369
    Quote Originally Posted by builder View Post
    What you describe is the opposite of what I am experiencing. My problem is upshifting to the 36. I'm sorry if I wasn't clear. From what you say, I would raise the front derailleur on the mount. It just sounds like it's too low. The teeth on all big rings vary in height to help the shift take place. If the derailleur is adjusted on the low teeth, it can be too low for the high part of the ring. Then it would bind. I'm sorry to hear about the frame damage. That hurts. I too see a lot of wear on the big ring of the ethirteen crank. I was surprised at that. I am currently just using it as a single up front because of the shift issue. I have a Specialties TA 28 tooth 64bcd small ring that is working very well-after I relieved a bit of the mounting boss(es) so they wouldn't contact the bottom bracket!
    If you bought the bike from a Salsa dealer they are on the hook to fix/replace the component.

    no. my deraileur is not too low. went there and did that already

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    105
    Yep, I'm running the bash guard- 45T is stamped on the back of the derailleur. The only modification done is an additional washer on the BB- added by the LBS to try and take care of a bit of of a creak. It seemed like the plastic washers+ that hand tightening screw dealio gave it just a smidgin of play after ~500 miles or so of riding.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    244
    I'd suggest raising the front derailleur a bit. I'm running a 2x10 on my On-One Fatty (Race Face crank 24-26-bash, XT everything else).

    My front derailleur came with that little alignment sticker that helps you to set it at the proper height above the big chainring; 2-3 mm IIRC. However, if I did that, the derailleur cage would hit the bash ring. So I had to raise it up till the cage cleared the bash.

    Shifting is just fine.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    68
    I read of a number of people with the ON ONE Fatty that are using Shimano front derailleurs with no issues. Sounds like the way to go. Thanks!

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    103
    2012/13 Muk 2, stock setup, roughly 500 miles on it, no shifting issues whatsoever.....

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation: kolt's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    13
    2012/13 Muk 2, no shifting issues, but sometimes the chain is stuck on one of the rings like Scottytheoneandonly described.

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    68
    Early on I had issues with the chain jamming as well. Now that it's pointed out to me, it was probably stuck on the big ring. It really seems like a clusterf _ _ _ on the front. Some shift, some do not. From pictures, which you can't go by on the net, it looks like the Sram x9 has a straighter cable pull than the x7? And the Shimano fronts also look better. I'm going to continue to try and get some positive response from Salsa, but in the end will probably go with one of the above. It's 1x10 for now.

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    68
    PS...... and also change the 36 tooth ring to one from Shimano. I have a 32 so will probably just use that.

  16. #16
    Big "T"
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    369
    I contacted fatbikes.com, since they advertise the crank I purchased as "exclusively available at fatbikes.com"

    they suggested I buy a different brand of chainring or call eThirteen myself

    the problem with this crankset is that the inner ring bolts to the middle ring, not to the crank arm. it limits replacement ring options.

    buyer beware, I guess. I always buy from my LBS. i stopped buying from online retailers years ago because of service/quality issues.

    I've been asking around to mechanics and a number of riders I know here and they all have negative comments regarding either the rings or the BBs on eThirteen cranks.

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    168
    i haven'y had any issues with the stock set-up and none with the xtr set-up i am running...

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    68
    Thanks Scotty!! I am currently in contact with ethirteen. They say they "have stellar response from everyone on their rings". Oh well. Just for the record, the cranks on the Mukluk are different in their mounting of the rings. I can change my rings to whatever in a 104 or a 64bcd..... so I can at least salvage something from this mess. It sounds though like the ring design is the same on both types of crank. Ethirteen also said they design their rings around Shimano chains, so don't know where this leaves us. Out in the cold I guess.... pun intended..... :.((

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    68
    Just in case one hasn't seen it, Fatback Bikes has an FSA crankset and bottom bracket that they spec on their bikes that I'm sure would work. These guys know FAT.

  20. #20
    Big "T"
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    369
    Quote Originally Posted by builder View Post
    Thanks Scotty!! I am currently in contact with ethirteen. They say they "have stellar response from everyone on their rings". Oh well. Just for the record, the cranks on the Mukluk are different in their mounting of the rings. I can change my rings to whatever in a 104 or a 64bcd..... so I can at least salvage something from this mess. It sounds though like the ring design is the same on both types of crank. Ethirteen also said they design their rings around Shimano chains, so don't know where this leaves us. Out in the cold I guess.... pun intended..... :.((
    have you taken the bike back to the shop that sold it to you? They should be the ones fixing it.


    I'm using a shimano XT/XTR drivetrain. the only non shimano component is the ethirteen crank/ring combo.


    if Shimano offered a 100mm crank option I'd be riding my bike right now.

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    68
    Scotty, shoot Charlie at ethirteen a note here.
    charlie.schneider@bythehive.com
    He's at least trying to help. He's offered to send new rings out to see if that would help.

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation: masterofnone's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,117
    My '13 muk3 shifts fine.

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    1,913
    Either of you guys have another mtb around?
    Swap the rings and see if it cures your problems...

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    175
    Just remove the front shifter entirely... zero shifting problems

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mnyquist's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    282
    Quote Originally Posted by Scottytheoneandonly View Post
    I contacted fatbikes.com, since they advertise the crank I purchased as "exclusively available at fatbikes.com"

    they suggested I buy a different brand of chainring or call eThirteen myself

    the problem with this crankset is that the inner ring bolts to the middle ring, not to the crank arm. it limits replacement ring options.

    buyer beware, I guess. I always buy from my LBS. i stopped buying from online retailers years ago because of service/quality issues.

    I've been asking around to mechanics and a number of riders I know here and they all have negative comments regarding either the rings or the BBs on eThirteen cranks.
    Guys at Trail's Edge in Michigan have had nothing good to say about E13. I have had front shifting issues as well. Also, I have to tighten the left crank arm every few rides. Race Face crank might be in my future.

Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •