Hey Joe from bikes direct, could you speak about the prep of these frames with components? If it is something the consumer should be doing no prop, just give us a little insight of frame prep while installing components. Or should we be taking to motobecane. Thanks for your time..
Personally, I like to go through all my bikes and use anti-seize and teflon plumbers tape on all threaded parts and re-torque. On rotor bolts a bit of blue loctite is good too.
On seatpost and stem / bar clamp areas a little bit of carbon friction paste. Of course, re-torque all cranks and every bolt periodically especially keep those pedals tight.
I'll post some pics of clearance of the Lou on 80mm rim so you can hopefully get somewhat of an idea of how much clearance Lou on 100mm will have.
While I'm at it I'll grab some pics of my Bud w/ a Framed Alaskan carbon fork. I went with the Framed fork because it is available in white, which matches the aesthetic of my Sturgis Ti better (white logos and white Bluto). Based on photos of the BD carbon fork I wouldn't be surprised if they are manufactured by the same company, as they are very similar in appearance.
Here's my bike in winter mode. In addition to previous modifications I have mounted studded Bud and Lou tires and a Framed Alaskan Carbon fork and Moose Mitts pogies. I also tend to leave my frame bag and seat pack (Oveja Negra) mounted since changing temps and weather in the winter can dictate layers being added/removed.
I received my large NTB Ti a few days ago but have been too sick to assemble it. Today I felt good enough to give it a try. I have to say I'm impressed.
It weighs 34lbs 8 oz without pedals.
And 35 lbs 5 oz with the cheap 520 SPD's.
I'll swap out a few things and lighten it up some, but it's lighter than my early Pugs with a bunch of upgrades already, which comes in at just over 37 pounds.
And there is a ton of room for tires. I did not see it posted, so I thought I'd post up the clearances on the stock Snowshoe's (120 tpi, 4.5").
Chupathingee,
Looks sharp with the Framed fork. Did you have to change any headset cups or races to fit the fork?
Also, with the Bud, you're running a 1X front so what clearance do you have and how do you think that will fit a 2X when it comes to chain rub?
H
The Framed fork came with two split crown races (my LBS said you can install them without a press), compression plug, and axle.
Regarding the chain clearance I'll take a pic this evening of the chain in the biggest cog. I purchased a smaller chainring to get my granny gear ratios back for the winter, and I'll switch back to the current larger chainring in the summer.
I think they weigh 'relatively' the same. I'm sure the frames are the same. The tires are actually different. The Sturgis gets 72tpi Snowshoes and the NTB gets a nicer (presumably lighter) 120tpi version. The crankset is probably a quarter pound lighter, as well. And there are a few other minor weight losses in other components, but nothing significant. So, if you compare the same size frames, the NTB will likely weigh about a pound less (as a guess). That's why your size Large NTB weighs the same as my Small Sturgis Bullet.
If you convert to tubeless, weigh your tires separately so we can get an idea what they are at.
I am referring to bikes of the same size. According to each of our scales, my Sturgis Ti in large and his NTB Ti size large weigh the same - 34 lb 8 oz. Breaking down the components:
Crank - Ride weighs 30g more than Turbine.
Tires - 72 tpi tires weigh 90g more than 120 tpi tires (Vee's site is confusing but I think I got this one right).
Brakes - R weighs 5g more than RS.
Rear derailleur - X7 weighs 11 grams less? than X9.
Shifters - X5 weighs 18g more than X7.
The Sturgis Ti only weighs 132g more by spec. Less of a difference than I thought, but still 4.65 oz. We have the same displayed weight probably due to scale inconsistencies.
That being said the upgrades on the NTB are better, though not significantly lighter. Tires make all the difference in the world, and I would imagine the drivetrain on the NTB shifts a lot smoother/quicker. I swapped all the parts off my bike almost as soon as I got it, so I can't really comment on any of the components. I ended up going with the Sturgis because I was selling all the components on my old bike anyway, and I liked the look of white
Newbie to fatbikes here... Got a a NB Ti and looking to go tubeless... Can someone point me to instructions or a vid with materials needed and process? Thanks!
So I think I'm going to get a new fatbike, but I can't decide if I want the TI version or Al. I've always wanted a ti bike, and know I would love it if I got it, but I'm a college student and the $500 difference is a lot to me.
I tend to break frames, and I know the TI would hold up to me better, but I like the shape of the aluminum tubes and the way they did the rear brake.
I also prefer the NT color scheme with the black bluto and labels, but I'm not shelling out another $300 for it.
On an unrelated note: how are the labels adhered to the frame? Would it be possible to remove them or is it too much work? I'm sure that at this level they aren't just slapping stickers on it, but I still think rearranging the letters to say MOOT would be funny.
So I think I'm going to get a new fatbike, but I can't decide if I want the TI version or Al. I've always wanted a ti bike, and know I would love it if I got it, but I'm a college student and the $500 difference is a lot to me.
I tend to break frames, and I know the TI would hold up to me better, but I like the shape of the aluminum tubes and the way they did the rear brake.
I also prefer the NT color scheme with the black bluto and labels, but I'm not shelling out another $300 for it.
On an unrelated note: how are the labels adhered to the frame? Would it be possible to remove them or is it too much work? I'm sure that at this level they aren't just slapping stickers on it, but I still think rearranging the letters to say MOOT would be funny.
Unsure exactly how they are held on, they appear to be more than just decals/stickers. The important thing to remember is if you remove the decals you forfeit your 100 year warranty:
Ok, I've been drooling over the pics and info! Once I knew the BD had a Ti Fatty, it was only a matter of time.
Ordered Monday, expected delivery 12/10 Thurs. I've got a Ti Sturgis 21" on it's way. This will be my 3rd BD purchase (ProSL 29er, and wife's 700HT). What are folks doing for pedals and grips?
Right now I typically use clipless Shimano 545s on my 29er, but may use a used set of Kona Wa Wa platforms I have laying around. For grips, thinking about going Ergon GP1 since I have used them on my 29er and love the comfort.
Ok, I've been drooling over the pics and info! Once I knew the BD had a Ti Fatty, it was only a matter of time.
What are folks doing for pedals and grips?
Right now I typically use clipless Shimano 545s on my 29er, but may use a used set of Kona Wa Wa platforms I have laying around. For grips, thinking about going Ergon GP1 since I have used them on my 29er and love the comfort.
I bought Xpedo Sprye Pedals. Size 14 shoe works well. They are not that grippy and choice of shoe 5Ten vs street shoe probably helps with the stickyness. I haven't changed the grips, and won't till I upgrade the bars and the X5 shifter when I get to it.
H
I am using egg beater 2 for pedals and just put on pro foam grips. $17.00 from price point. My right hand sometimes gets pain from the Ritchey grips. Best of luck, the bike really is sweet.
You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to Chupathingee again.
You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to Shelterock again.
Yeah, Chupathingee and other added value with pics and measurments related to the TI frame and deserves the rep. He's been on the front of the Ti frame upgrades and I value what i've learnt from his posts. Haven't quite figured out the rep thing but I don't think it's missplaced or miss guided.
H
Besides the wheelset on BD.com, what other combos are available in 29er that would fit this bike? with a 150/197 I'm just no familiar with what my options in 29er wheels/tires and I want to use my Fatty as a summer and winter all-purpose.
I may buy the BD wheel set b/c of the price, but from what I've read on here, I'm not excited about the Novatec hubs being used.
The Novatec hubs seem fine to me, time will tell how they are. My only gripe is the caps on the front hub that I can see myself easily losing...
You'll want 150 TA front and 197 TA rear. Frankly for the price I don't believe the BD set can be beat. A quick google search didn't come up with any pre-built sets. I don't think you'll even find much in the used market since 197 TA hasn't been around for very long.
You could always build your own. I'm partial to Industry 9 hubs but the hubs will cost you twice as much as the whole BD wheelset...
I finally took the NTB out for a spin despite still being so sick I can barely breathe.
I love the bike. I removed the Snowshoes and installed my Nates tubeless with Zip tape, SunRingle strip, and 3 oz Stans each. It's down to 33# 12oz with the 424 pedals and the rest stock. I'll get it down a little more with lighter bars, stem, seatpost, saddle, and a carbon fork for winter. I'm also going to ditch the 36T for a 32T which is what I'm used to on the Pugs, although it was only a 11-28.
I have to say, I love this bike. It is so much less like a truck than my Pugs and more like a mountain bike. The X9 shifters take some getting used to coming from XT's, but maybe they'll be OK after I get used to them.
The Nates are much more aggressive than the Snowshoes, handle better at lower pressures, and are only 2mm narrower than the Snowshoes on the same Mulefut's at the same pressure (with the same tube), 4.5" wide my butt!
I finally took the NTB out for a spin despite still being so sick I can barely breathe.
I love the bike. I removed the Snowshoes and installed my Nates tubeless with Zip tape, SunRingle strip, and 3 oz Stans each. It's down to 33# 12oz with the 424 pedals and the rest stock. I'll get it down a little more with lighter bars, stem, seatpost, saddle, and a carbon fork for winter. I'm also going to ditch the 36T for a 32T which is what I'm used to on the Pugs, although it was only a 11-28.
I have to say, I love this bike. It is so much less like a truck than my Pugs and more like a mountain bike. The X9 shifters take some getting used to coming from XT's, but maybe they'll be OK after I get used to them.
Hope you feel better soon! I'm an XT snob so I just move my XT drivetrain from bike to bike (started on my Moonlander, then my Fatboy, now on my Sturgis Ti). I run with a Framed Alaskan Carbon fork during the winter and would vouch for it so far (~100 miles?) Post #257 of the current thread
That's really interesting about the Nates being so close to the Snowshoes. I was just about to ask why you went with a much smaller tire. I had heard that the Snowshoes were much smaller than their listed size. I've been considering 4" tires for summer use myself - now that I have the Bluto I don't need the extra "suspension" of 5", and I don't need the float on dry singletrack. I loved the Knards on my Krampus so that's likely what I'll end up with if I go that route.
I was just looking into the panaracer Jack n nibble for spring.......tubeless of course. man I love this bike....been riding for a long time. Raced. A couple 24 hour races... but i did a 19 mile trail ride Sunday, it was supposed to be a five hour ride. I did it in 2.40 hours and had a great time. I love love this bike
Hello all. I wanted to post some pics of my two bikes (Specialized AWOL and Sturgis Ti) and then I have a few questions...
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