Question, how come these Ti bikes are so heavy? I thought Ti was lighter than Aluminum. I guess I was expecting these bikes to come in right around 30lbs, rather than 35+. The components are pretty good.
Ti is not neccessarily lighter than alu. It's all on the construction. $500 more for Ti and similar weight. I look at it for corrosion prevention as I ride in salt water and on the beach. The ride compliance is quite different where Alu doesn't flex as much. Ti feels like a chromoly frame, but won't rust.
Most Ti bikes are setup 1X and due to cost of the frame they usually are spec'd high end. I think the 30lbs thinking is a function of that, usually $3500-$5000 bikes.
Ora Engineering makes the frame. The Ritchey cockpit is entry level, so is the seat. The Ride crank on the Sturgis is entry level and X7 stuff too. The Bluto contributes some weight.
For $2000 you get an amazing bike. I didn't realize until I went Tubeless, how much of a difference that makes. Seeing the left over Sturgis and Night Trains with Weinmann 80 rims, I definietly don't think they are a value. Mulefut makes a big improvement in the bike.
I bought a Ti bike for the same reasons Shelterock gives.. rides like chromoly but is darn near indestructible and impervious to rust.
The tubes on this bike are pretty large in diameter compared to a lot of Ti builders. I was a little surprised to see that, altho it is fairly obvious in photos. I think that is why the weight is similar to Alu frames.
Mostly the added weight is in the crank and Bluto. If you had an Alu frame with the same exact build, you'd see no difference in weight.
But, I figure if you went tubeless you'd drop about 3 lbs immediately. And weight weenies could hunt down some lightweight tires and drop 1-2 lbs for a pair. And a lightweight crank like the Next cinch system could lose a pound. That would bring it under 30lbs. Not bad at all for a fat bike with a Bluto!
But, as Shelterock mentioned, you'll see the most difference when you lose rotating weight. Lightweight hubs won't be that noticable, but losing the tubes and going to lighter tires will make the wheels accelerate much quicker and be easier on climbs.
Thanks! I have to adjust to the Q factor, but I don't notice that much when I get into anything remotely technical. Otherwise it's a pleasure to ride.
I tried to go tubeless in front after the ride but couldn't get the tire off. It's like the tire is hermetically sealed or something. I was reading the Mulefut Tubeless thread this afternoon to get ideas. Guess I just need to keep working on it to loosen it up. Maybe it would be easier after I get some miles on the tires and they break in.
I had to stand on the tire to get it off the bead and then some tire iron wrangling to get it off the rim. It's tight and the hardest part of converting. Oh, have fun with the rim strip too.
Agreed, getting the stock tires off the rims was tough. VERY tight seat. I had to stand on the tire as well (make sure you support the rim and don't put a lot of pressure sideways on the axle, it could damage the cartridge bearings from what I've been told).
I used the Sun Ringle tubeless tape for my conversion, it's been a month and no leaks (I'm even running non tubeless ready tires).
I crossed over 1000 miles on my Ti NT Bullet last night. No modifications yet, however going tubeless will be my first change. The wheel weight is noticeable on steep climbs but not so much on trails with rollers.
The frame is truly amazing. It has been put through the ringer and overall I am impressed. The welds get the most positive comments.
Oddly, I have snapped the derailleur hanger. Took a weird fall and the hanger took a direct hit. Thankfully I packed the spare so it wasn't a long walk home. Replacements are pending from BD.
+1 for standing on the side of the tire to break the bead. Unless you've ridden the tire for a while and the temp is up, the tire will be a hassle to remove.
SpartanBrewer, 1000 miles since delivery in late September. Good going! How are the Snowshoes wearing? What tires are you running?
I realized after the tubeless conversion, I would not want to deal with a flat tube in this rim on a 20f day on the side of the trail.
JoeFriday, you have a picture of the rack installed to share?
H
Here's what I came up with after a trip to a few bike shops. It's a Bontrager BackRack Deluxe.
I realize after looking at my photos that it could sit a little lower. But that could be accomplished by drilling bolt holes in the lower mounting bracket locations. You could drop it maybe an inch that way.
The top tucks in under my saddle, and I doubt I could avoid that due to my frame geometry. That limits the usability of the rack, but I never planned to put anything on top. Most of the other racks I considered were ridiculously tall resulting in hitting the saddle and wouldn't fit at all. As it is, it easily clears the disc brake and mounts up in just a minute or two.
As you can see, there's plenty of clearance for a fender, and that's a 4.5" Snowshoe. No worries if you want to go wider.
The rack is aluminum, so long-term durability might be a concern. But it seems pretty solid and mounts very firmly. I had to spread the lower mounting brackets about an inch apart, which was very easy to do by hand. And the upper seatstay mounting extenders needed a little light bending, and aren't actually mounted to the rack in the recommended location (the front crossbar that is slightly lower than the others). But it's fine for me and is very solid.
I haven't had a chance to test it for heel clearance yet, so it might not be the final solution. But for $45 I didn't mind taking a chance.
So this was the best solution I found so far. But if I feel this one doesn't work out, I might look at the Salsa Alternator Rack 190. But those cost $120... almost triple! Plus, I prefer my rack to be silver. It seems to play very well with my Ortliebs, but we'll see once I get it rolling.
I haven't posted in a while so I thought I would throw a quick update out here.
I've been very happy with the bike. As others have mentioned the wheels are nice, and frame is excellent. This is my first fatbike with a shock and I'm loving it out on singletrack.
Here's a photo of my summer setup. My only gripe is the front triangle is a bit smaller than other large framed bikes, and I had a hard time fitting my shorty water bottles in the cages.
For those asking sizing questions, I'm 6'0" with a 33.5" inseam and I think the large fits me perfectly. IIRC the Niner RDO seatpost goes up to 9 from the minimum insertion point for measurement marks and I have mine around 7.
My only gripe is the front triangle is a bit smaller than other large framed bikes, and I had a hard time fitting my shorty water bottles in the cages.
Since I have the smallest frame, I had to resort to using a side entry cage, and got some 12oz water bottles. There was no way I could use a regular cage with any bottle. It seems pretty obvious from that and the size of the tubing that the frame manufacturers simply changed the geometry with no other regard for fit.
I still think it's a great bike, but to do it right they should change the cage locations and go to size-specific tubing. I really don't need tubing that thick to haul around my 135 lbs body compared to clydesdales. Thinner tubing would probably shave a half pound off the frame and make it a little more compliant.
Stock Snowshoes are showing signs of wear due to the volume of miles on asphalt trails. They probably were not designed for this type of riding but my goal was to get to 1k as fast as I could .....build fitness/drop some weight.
No cut marks at all which is a little amazing. These are the 120tpi tires.
I'm chasing a buzzing that seems to be from a cable housing. Really my only complaint.
hi JoeFriday
how tall are you ? I am 5,7 with 30 inseam, on the Bd web site it say I should pick small, but I think I should go with medium, anyone got any thought can help me here
Go with the small. I am 5' 8" with 30" inseam and I went with the medium (17" Night Train rigid) and I regret it. I should've gone with the BD recommendation for a small. You want more stand-over clearance in the snow.
Tankhead10, welcome to the fold. I hope you have a better experience than the Fatboy SE ordeal.
CarbonGuy, great to see one of these bikes in the snow. How easy did the Dillingers mountup on the mulefut rims?
Chupathingee, Is that a Large size Revelate Tangle frame bag? I installed my bottle on the seatpost tube mount instead of the downtube. It might give you more space.
H
Chupathingee, Is that a Large size Revelate Tangle frame bag? I installed my bottle on the seatpost tube mount instead of the downtube. It might give you more space.
H
The bottle fits in the downtube mount more easily than the seatpost mount on mine :-/ I can fit bottles but they scrunch up the frame bag a bit and are somewhat difficult to get out.
Thanks for all the info on this post. I was just about to pull the trigger on a medium Ti Nighttrain and then got to reading / debating on sizing. I am 5"8" with a 30.5" inseam @170lbs. I prefer a bit more of an aggressive rather than monster truck (i.e. Ice Cream Truck) feel. I am currently riding a Cannondale Trigger Medium which can feel a bit tall, but in terms of reach works very well. Previously I rode a small 26" Klein Pulse Comp for years, then switched to an Indy Fab large that was beautiful but too big... bought it second hand I couldn't resist at the time. Any recommendations on sizing with the Ti Nightrain?
Thanks for any thoughts y'all might have.
Thanks for all the info on this post. I was just about to pull the trigger on a medium Ti Nighttrain and then got to reading / debating on sizing. I am 5"8" with a 30.5" inseam @170lbs. I prefer a bit more of an aggressive rather than monster truck (i.e. Ice Cream Truck) feel. I am currently riding a Cannondale Trigger Medium which can feel a bit tall, but in terms of reach works very well. Previously I rode a small 26" Klein Pulse Comp for years, then switched to an Indy Fab large that was beautiful but too big... bought it second hand I couldn't resist at the time. Any recommendations on sizing with the Ti Nightrain?
Thanks for any thoughts y'all might have.
I see, you're right on the border on the size chart. I am 5' 11" and got the medium; surprisingly comfortable. I like to sit up tall to shift weight over the rear tire. The distance from ground to top tube is 31", measured just in front of the BB where my tape measure clears the BB. That's with D5's, which are a tad (1/4"? ) higher than the S4.5 that came on the Ti-Night Bullet
I think your answer is on their website:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
*If one is between sizes, size down for lower bars more aggressive fit or shorter arms/legs. Size up for higher bars, or longer arms.
**Add one more inch to standovers for Bluto Equipped Fat bikes.
*SO Slopes up and increases towards head tube. Standover in chart above and Geometry link has SO on axis with BB and thus is lower than at midpoint.
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
The headangle is pretty lax, so to me it doesn't feel "top" heavy.
In short, I'd be interested to hear you reporting back after you get the small
I pulled the trigger on a large yesterday, can't wait for it to arrive. I am also 5'11" but went with the large over the medium. I was on the fence but decided to take a chance. Now I just need a sell a few bikes to bring in some cash. This is replacing an early Pugs that works fine but is long in the tooth.
Congrats. I was on the fence also. I too ordered the large. After having the medium fat boy in my hands I just don't think having more than a foot of post sticking out of a frame is good for the long term..... mine will be here Tuesday..
Congrats guys. I think the sizing is exactly as carbon guy explains... if you're on the edge of two sizes, size down for an aggressive feel, size up for a little more relaxed stretched out ride.
We got some snow this morning in Wisconsin and I just got back from the first ride in white stuff. The bike was a blast. I had forgotten how much of a workout the snow adds, but it felt great.
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