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  1. #201
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    JoeFriday, Thanks for the pictures. Looks good.

    Tankhead10, welcome to the fold. I hope you have a better experience than the Fatboy SE ordeal.

    CarbonGuy, great to see one of these bikes in the snow. How easy did the Dillingers mountup on the mulefut rims?

    Chupathingee, Is that a Large size Revelate Tangle frame bag? I installed my bottle on the seatpost tube mount instead of the downtube. It might give you more space.
    H
    2016 Motobecane Sturgis Bullet Ti
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  2. #202
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    Quote Originally Posted by kuanlin View Post
    hi JoeFriday
    how tall are you ? I am 5,7 with 30 inseam, on the Bd web site it say I should pick small, but I think I should go with medium, anyone got any thought can help me here

    thanks!
    I'm 5'5" (but always claim I'm 5'7") with a 29.5" inseam. The standover on the small is pretty much zero for me but I'm used to that from road bikes with flat top tubes. I just tilt the bike when I stop. It's as natural to me as avoiding toe overlap.

    Generally I wouldn't use standover as a fit guide. You should go with the reach. I would think your reach would be a little longer than mine (I wear 32" sleeve dress shirts). Of course you could always put a longer stem on. On the other hand, if the medium bike was slightly long, you could go to a zero setback seatpost and it would probably feel about right.

    I guess it depends on what matters more to you. I can get used to less standover but can't stand the reach being off by a half inch. For some people it's just the opposite.

    neons97, if you're talking about the aluminum Night Train, I don't think that is the same geometry and they're made in a different factory so the fit would be different.

    I'll just just say that I was afraid that the Small would be too big for me, but it it feels great when I'm riding. It's just a little tall when standing. But I didn't buy it to stand around.

    What do you other guys think? Did the size match what you expected?
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  3. #203
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeFriday View Post
    neons97, if you're talking about the aluminum Night Train, I don't think that is the same geometry and they're made in a different factory so the fit would be different.
    Well if he's talking about standover than neons97 may have a point, since the TI version has less standover than the Alu version. Also their geo's are quite similar very minor diffs.
    Motobecanes Titanium FatBike final specs and release date.-moto-titanium-fatbike-geo.jpgMotobecanes Titanium FatBike final specs and release date.-sturgis-night-alu-geo.jpg
    Last edited by Guy.Ford; 11-20-2015 at 03:09 PM.

  4. #204
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeFriday View Post
    very nice, carbonguy! How do you like those Dillingers?
    I like 'em! They are studded and freaking expensive, but whatch'a gonna do? They are mounted on Sarma 100's.

  5. #205
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    Quote Originally Posted by JPaul View Post
    Hi thomcom,

    I'm 6' as well, with ~32" inseam (possibly slightly shorter inseam).

    Good luck with your decision! (but I'd go 19"...)
    Paul
    Me too. My boris has 13.5 of seatpost exposed, on a 27.2mm T-mars dropper (~450mm total length!). Daily fatbike pic thread

    I went ahead and ordered this morning, thanks for the advice! I ordered the aluminum large in black first thing this morning and got a tracking number. I think I feel scrunched up on the Boris, too high. Trying something different with bikes has great cost.

    The NTB looks like a great deal because other than tubeless and cockpit, there's really nothing to upgrade.

  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeFriday View Post
    I'm 5'5" (but always claim I'm 5'7") with a 29.5" inseam. The standover on the small is pretty much zero for me but I'm used to that from road bikes with flat top tubes. I just tilt the bike when I stop. It's as natural to me as avoiding toe overlap.

    Generally I wouldn't use standover as a fit guide. You should go with the reach. I would think your reach would be a little longer than mine (I wear 32" sleeve dress shirts). Of course you could always put a longer stem on. On the other hand, if the medium bike was slightly long, you could go to a zero setback seatpost and it would probably feel about right.

    I guess it depends on what matters more to you. I can get used to less standover but can't stand the reach being off by a half inch. For some people it's just the opposite.

    neons97, if you're talking about the aluminum Night Train, I don't think that is the same geometry and they're made in a different factory so the fit would be different.

    I'll just just say that I was afraid that the Small would be too big for me, but it it feels great when I'm riding. It's just a little tall when standing. But I didn't buy it to stand around.

    What do you other guys think? Did the size match what you expected?
    Joe
    thanks for the info , I am same size as you, I think I will go for small

  7. #207
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shelterock View Post
    Chupathingee, Is that a Large size Revelate Tangle frame bag? I installed my bottle on the seatpost tube mount instead of the downtube. It might give you more space.
    H
    It's an Oveja Negra frame bag, size large.

    The bottle fits in the downtube mount more easily than the seatpost mount on mine :-/ I can fit bottles but they scrunch up the frame bag a bit and are somewhat difficult to get out.

  8. #208
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    Quote Originally Posted by carbonguy View Post
    I like 'em! They are studded and freaking expensive, but whatch'a gonna do? They are mounted on Sarma 100's.
    I studded my Bud and Lou using gripstuds. I used 100 of them, at about $1/each.

    I used this article as a guide: Lao Tzu Cycles: Grip Studs in Bud and Lou

    I actually talked with the author last year and asked for a long term review. He said he uses his blog post to put the studs in the same place each winter.

  9. #209
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    A sizing question

    Thanks for all the info on this post. I was just about to pull the trigger on a medium Ti Nighttrain and then got to reading / debating on sizing. I am 5"8" with a 30.5" inseam @170lbs. I prefer a bit more of an aggressive rather than monster truck (i.e. Ice Cream Truck) feel. I am currently riding a Cannondale Trigger Medium which can feel a bit tall, but in terms of reach works very well. Previously I rode a small 26" Klein Pulse Comp for years, then switched to an Indy Fab large that was beautiful but too big... bought it second hand I couldn't resist at the time. Any recommendations on sizing with the Ti Nightrain?
    Thanks for any thoughts y'all might have.

  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by jllive View Post
    Thanks for all the info on this post. I was just about to pull the trigger on a medium Ti Nighttrain and then got to reading / debating on sizing. I am 5"8" with a 30.5" inseam @170lbs. I prefer a bit more of an aggressive rather than monster truck (i.e. Ice Cream Truck) feel. I am currently riding a Cannondale Trigger Medium which can feel a bit tall, but in terms of reach works very well. Previously I rode a small 26" Klein Pulse Comp for years, then switched to an Indy Fab large that was beautiful but too big... bought it second hand I couldn't resist at the time. Any recommendations on sizing with the Ti Nightrain?
    Thanks for any thoughts y'all might have.
    I see, you're right on the border on the size chart. I am 5' 11" and got the medium; surprisingly comfortable. I like to sit up tall to shift weight over the rear tire. The distance from ground to top tube is 31", measured just in front of the BB where my tape measure clears the BB. That's with D5's, which are a tad (1/4"? ) higher than the S4.5 that came on the Ti-Night Bullet


    I think your answer is on their website:
    >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
    *If one is between sizes, size down for lower bars more aggressive fit or shorter arms/legs. Size up for higher bars, or longer arms.

    **Add one more inch to standovers for Bluto Equipped Fat bikes.

    *SO Slopes up and increases towards head tube. Standover in chart above and Geometry link has SO on axis with BB and thus is lower than at midpoint.
    <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

    The headangle is pretty lax, so to me it doesn't feel "top" heavy.

    In short, I'd be interested to hear you reporting back after you get the small

    Hope that helps.

  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by jllive View Post
    Thanks for all the info on this post. I was just about to pull the trigger on a medium Ti Nighttrain and then got to reading / debating on sizing. I am 5"8" with a 30.5" inseam @170lbs. I prefer a bit more of an aggressive rather than monster truck (i.e. Ice Cream Truck) feel. I am currently riding a Cannondale Trigger Medium which can feel a bit tall, but in terms of reach works very well. Previously I rode a small 26" Klein Pulse Comp for years, then switched to an Indy Fab large that was beautiful but too big... bought it second hand I couldn't resist at the time. Any recommendations on sizing with the Ti Nightrain?
    Thanks for any thoughts y'all might have.
    I am 5'7" and have 31.25" inseam. Fatbikes and 29ers share similar tire diameters. I like an aggressive fit and would choose a 15.5 inch Motobecane Titanium NightTrain.
    I have always gotten a good fit when I choose a bike with an ETT (effective top tube) that's closest to what I prefer. Saddle and stem length/positions can be tuned further

  12. #212
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    I pulled the trigger on a large yesterday, can't wait for it to arrive. I am also 5'11" but went with the large over the medium. I was on the fence but decided to take a chance. Now I just need a sell a few bikes to bring in some cash. This is replacing an early Pugs that works fine but is long in the tooth.

  13. #213
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    Congrats. I was on the fence also. I too ordered the large. After having the medium fat boy in my hands I just don't think having more than a foot of post sticking out of a frame is good for the long term..... mine will be here Tuesday..

    Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by tankhead10; 11-23-2015 at 11:11 AM.

  14. #214
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    Last edited by tankhead10; 11-25-2015 at 06:07 AM. Reason: phone fart

  15. #215
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    Congrats guys. I think the sizing is exactly as carbon guy explains... if you're on the edge of two sizes, size down for an aggressive feel, size up for a little more relaxed stretched out ride.

    We got some snow this morning in Wisconsin and I just got back from the first ride in white stuff. The bike was a blast. I had forgotten how much of a workout the snow adds, but it felt great.

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  16. #216
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    Gosh damn that looks inviting.... Xmas is coming...Xmas is coming

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  17. #217
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    Hello everyone! I ordered my new Night Train Bullet Titanium last Sunday and it arrived on Friday. No complaints with BD or UPS with packaging and shipping. The bike is in perfect condition. I'm waiting to finish putting it together until a few component upgrades arrive. I've been riding my "better half's" Sturgis Bullet while she's away visiting family, so I'll have a good comparison of the two after I get on the Ti bike. I'm setting them both up tubeless, 1x with wolf tooth and raceface components, eTen dropper posts and carbon handlebars. I'm a bargain hunter, so I'll wait until the right parts come up for the right price. Her bike is a 2015 and it has the 120mm bluto and mine came with the 100mm, so I'll probably swap those out. We're up in the Lake Tahoe area and plan on using them in the snow as well as the dirt. I'm looking forward to seeing and reading about everyone else's adventures and tinkerings with these fun bikes.

  18. #218
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    I'm in the market for a carbon front fork for winter riding, but one that will fit the 2XL. I know someone's done the research, what's out there?

  19. #219
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dilligaff View Post
    I'm in the market for a carbon front fork for winter riding, but one that will fit the 2XL. I know someone's done the research, what's out there?
    There's a 2xl 5.05 thread on here somewhere with lots of fork talk. the Headtube is tapered and there rest should be standard fare.
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  20. #220
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    Couple Questions on 1X10 or 1X11

    What is the formal designation for the freehub we have? HG Shimano style?

    Can you run a 11-42t 10Sp Cassette with the X7 rear derailleur, if yes, what if any adjustments should I look for? Was thinking the new Sunrace CSMX8 11-42t 10spd. Wide ratio but only 10sp with a 28t up front.

    Is the Ride 36/22 crank on the Sturgis a 104/64mm BCD? Can you run a 28T on the inside spider and adjust it outward and a bashguard on the 104mm BCD?

    Cheers,
    H
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  21. #221
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dilligaff View Post
    I'm in the market for a carbon front fork for winter riding, but one that will fit the 2XL. I know someone's done the research, what's out there?
    The Bikes Direct carbon fork clears it, but its pretty tight.
    Quote Originally Posted by Optimus View Post
    Hell of a jump, dawg. Even though they're baggy shorts, I'm surprised that you can fit your balls into them.

  22. #222
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    2016 Motobecane Sturgis Bullet Ti
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  23. #223
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    Well the bike is here. It is huge, beautiful and in PERFECT condition. Stand over is basically my nuts split between the top tube. It is SO tall up front. But once on the bike all is well.

    I have one question. The crank arms had washers zip tied to it, do I need to use then for the crank pedal interface? Are they necessary?

    This is a huge bike. I don't mean that it doesn't fit me, it's just a huge bike. Doesn't feel heavy at all. Wow what a quality frame!!! Just as sweet as my Merlin Agilis was. And the rock shock is beautiful also. Can't wait to hit the trails early thanksgiving morning... Thanks for all your help, pics to follow...happy thanksgiving everyone.

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  24. #224
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    Tank head, great to hear you like the bike. The washers go on the pedal shafts and when tight sit flush in the crank. It's necessary.

  25. #225
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    Good that's where I put them. I saw the inset on the cranks just making sure. Thanks. Can't wait to go ride this beast...

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  26. #226
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    Warning sticker on the top tube. Does removing it void warranty? What is the warranty on the frame by the way? Thanks. Been up staring at the bike and tweeking the position of the brake levers/shifters since 4:45 am. BEAUTIFUL!

    Thanks again.
    Last edited by tankhead10; 11-25-2015 at 08:39 AM.

  27. #227
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    I think the removal of the Motobecane from frame is the issue. I pulled the warning label off mine. Warranty is a case by case thing, I think, with BD.
    H
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  28. #228
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    That warning label was removed from my bike about 30 seconds after I removed the dork disc (which was the first thing I did after the full assembly). It's like the mattress labels that say "do not remove under penalty of death" or something to that effect. It's just a manufacturer CYA decal.

    And yeah.. it seems like a really big frame, doesn't it? I've seen aluminum frames with smaller tubes.. LOL. But it rides really nice so I'm not complaining. Just imagine if BD could get the frame designed with hydroformed tubing to get the sizing a little more user friendly. It would be the best bang you'd ever find for a fat bike.

    Btw, I tried going tubeless again this weekend and STILL can't get the tire to release its death grip from the rim. I even carefully put a heat gun on the tire to get it a little more pliable with no help. I think I'll just ride it tubed for the winter and worry about it next spring. If anybody wants to come over and show me how to do it, I'll buy you a case of Fat Tire ale.
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  29. #229
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    @JoeFriday - you may want to check out this thread

    SUNringlé Mule FÜT 80SL

    Using C-clamps is probably the best way to go. This would not risk damaging the wheel/rim. However, careful use of 2x4s should also work. Video of a guy breaking the bead on motorcycle rims:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNrhMUPxI3o

    hope this helps

  30. #230
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    JoeFriday,

    I'm 6'7" 260lbs and I just stomped on it. It can handle my weight flying a rocky trail. it's not that fragile so put some @ss into it or get your biggest next door neighbor to step on it. It did take 3 plastic tire irons to get it off the rims after the bead was released.

    Look at it this way. A flat on the trail and walk is no fun. At Home, with appropriate beverage in close proximity, you can work this thing over and not face the long walk of shame on the trail. Don't give up and Happy thanksgiving.
    H
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  31. #231
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    Thanks for the help, guys. Shelterock, I'm literally half your weight, so I might not have quite the influence as you do. I'll try the c-clamp method first. I wasn't all that worried about damaging the tire, but was afraid I'd tear the tube inside and not be able to finish the job, resulting in an unrideable wheel until I did something drastic.
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  32. #232
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redmanf18 View Post
    Hello everyone! I ordered my new Night Train Bullet Titanium last Sunday and it arrived on Friday. No complaints with BD or UPS with packaging and shipping. The bike is in perfect condition. I'm waiting to finish putting it together until a few component upgrades arrive. I've been riding my "better half's" Sturgis Bullet while she's away visiting family, so I'll have a good comparison of the two after I get on the Ti bike. I'm setting them both up tubeless, 1x with wolf tooth and raceface components, eTen dropper posts and carbon handlebars. I'm a bargain hunter, so I'll wait until the right parts come up for the right price. Her bike is a 2015 and it has the 120mm bluto and mine came with the 100mm, so I'll probably swap those out. We're up in the Lake Tahoe area and plan on using them in the snow as well as the dirt. I'm looking forward to seeing and reading about everyone else's adventures and tinkerings with these fun bikes.
    I pulled the trigger on the night train bullet Ti last sunday. Will be here Monday. I live in Reno and ride Tahoe quite a bit in the summer. Im looking forward to riding in the winter as well.

  33. #233
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    WOWOWOWOWOW. 2.5 hours of laughing out loud FUN. Everything functioned as it should. I like the shifters more than I thought but still miss grip shift.

    The only problem is that the seat post slipped twice while riding. I am just at about 3+ on the seatpost but it slipped down to 2 the first time and just above 3 the next. Don't know if I put too much ti prep on post or what but this happened when I had another ti frame mountain bike. It became a problem...... Hopefully not on this bike.

    Other than that; it really is just what I was looking for. Something new. Something exciting. A new type of riding in the woods. How wonderful! It is a beast and I am the beast master. Thanks BikesDirect for such a wonderful package. Thanks everyone here for your valued information. Happy Thanksgiving everyone.

  34. #234
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    Cedar Point Abandoned Lighthouse

    Motobecanes Titanium FatBike final specs and release date.-image.jpgMotobecanes Titanium FatBike final specs and release date.-image.jpg
    Did an afternoon ride with my boys to the abandoned lighthouse out on Cedar Point in Easthampton NY. Low tide made a boulevard to ride down.
    H
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  35. #235
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    Maybe it's been answered before, but what is the deal with the Motobecane and BD hate?

    I was at my LBS and test rode some bikes in the last few weeks. The 2016 Kona WO was particularly interesting because it was a good fit while the Carver Ti was a little out of my price range. I had not told them about deciding on a NTB Ti yet when during discussion one of the owners mentioned how heavy a current bike build was going, and said "It'll be heavy, like Sturgis Heavy". Since I was interested in all bikes that fit my criteria (to replace my aged Pugs), I knew the weight of the Sturgis to be the same as the WO, around 35/36 pounds. I did not mention this since the Sturgis was obviously the distant relative no one talked about, but I am unsure as to why. The NTB/Sturgis has a nice build, better than the WO, and very similar dimensions with nearly identical pricepoints. For a few hundred more, I chose the Ti due to it being Ti (I love my early Merlin road bike) and the superior build components.

    I know the LBS don't make money off BD bikes but you'd think they'd be happy to get the business from upgrade/maintenance/failures than nothing at all. It's been said many times the LBS doesn't make a lot of the bikes they sell, they make it by other avenues.

    Now I'm hesitant to take the bike (when it arrives) to my favorite LBS just for that reason, should it need anything. I don't really want to go to another one since I don't trust them, trust built over years of interaction. So what do you do?

  36. #236
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    Learn how to maintain the bike yourself. It's not that difficult.

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    It's a combination of a couple things. First, Motobecane hasn't been a top tier name brand in decades. Sort of like Raleigh was a department store bike at one point. There's no caché behind the brand like there is for Colnago. But with a French name it's sort of looked upon as a poseur brand by the 'elite'.

    Then there is the fact that no Tour winners are riding them. And that's mostly how people decide what is 'good'. It doesn't matter if it's an excellent product for the everyday biker. It's how many times they see the brand on a podium that matters to them, even tho the bikes that the pros are riding are a far cry from the bikes in stores.

    And along that same vein, there's advertising and magazine reviews. Little to none is done for the Motobecane lineup. So the bike shops sneer at the 'no name' brand. Even tho they all know of it.

    The irony is that everyone says you could buy a bike like ours and strip off all the parts and throw away the frame (which is the only 'Motobecane' part) and still get a decent deal. So they know the value is there even if the frame were junk. However, those who have ridden them know the quality is right up there.

    There's another thread on here where someone was debating between buying a Ti Motobecane and a Surly. And all the Moto-haters were talking trash about the ti frame and how it was stupid to 'shoot your wad' on a Motobecane frame compared to a 'good ti frame' until I pointed out that none of them ever saw one of the frames in person, and for the price you were not getting just a ti frame, but a full SRAM, Mulefut, Bluto build up. The frame is almost free. Oddly enough, nobody had a comeback for that.

    Btw, I had a very different experience when I took my Sturgis into a LBS to find a rear rack that fit. At least three of the guys working in the back came out to look it over. It was probably the first Moto fat bike they'd seen. They looked it over pretty closely and all seemed to approve. But I think that's the difference between actually seeing one and just hearing about a 'mail order bike'.

    Of course, if you brought yours into their shop, their first thought would be 'he didn't buy from us'. But if they have any common sense they'd treat you as a valued custom still. If they don't, they aren't worth doing business with anymore.
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  38. #238
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    Quote Originally Posted by NRP View Post
    Learn how to maintain the bike yourself. It's not that difficult.
    Good point. In the 30 years that I've been riding, I've taken bikes to the shop exactly twice. The first time was for a new front dérailleur that I couldn't get to shift right. The mechanic couldn't either and swapped it out under warranty. The second time was to have a bottom bracket installed. It was cheaper to have them do it rather than buy the required tool and I knew I wouldn't be doing it another time.

    Seriously, bikes are so simple I could list every single part off the top of my head. It's not rocket science. And aside from messing with cassettes or bottom brackets, you can work on just about anything with a wrench, screwdriver or hex tool. You know those little multi-tools that fit in seatbags? That's what I use for 90% of my maintenance.
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    I grew up in Belgium, France, U.K. And now 25+ years in NY. I rode several original Motobecane bikes including the full suspension deal they made in the 80s. Their mopeds were awesome too, what a way to get around when you were 14.
    The lbs got a shot at my money, and 6 months of reading told me that these bikes are a great deal. I work hard for my cash. I choose these guys. We're in an area where there is little competition and with my size, no inventory on the floor. These things made the decision easier.
    I took my bike in to get the derailleur tuned up And didn't have A torque wrench so they secured the front rotor too. I asked them to inflate the bluto too but they forgot. Getting value for your money is hard.

    The bikes direct 'tude is very common partly because if it doesn't say Gucci, it can't be good. I see it in my RC flying space too. Futaba, JR, Spektrum big bucks, I fly a $50 transmitter, 1/4 of the price, and never had a glitch with my China built unit.
    If it ain't a brand, it can't be good. Short sightedness is hard to accept when you spent all your money to look the part versus just getting out and riding.

    Consider yourself a savvy shopper and informed consumer. The LBS resents the loss of business to the Internet. It's a growing trend. It's nieve of them to not be nice to You regardless of what you buy. Service it with a smile and you may get more business in the future.
    H
    2016 Motobecane Sturgis Bullet Ti
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  40. #240
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    Motobecanes Titanium FatBike final specs and release date.-image.jpg
    Out with the boys, Sturgis Ti, Boris X5, and FatBoy 24" bought local. I spread the wealth.
    H
    2016 Motobecane Sturgis Bullet Ti
    2015 Specialized FatBoy 24"
    2016 Motobecane Boris X5
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  41. #241
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shelterock View Post
    I grew up in Belgium, France, U.K. And now 25+ years in NY. I rode several original Motobecane bikes including the full suspension deal they made in the 80s. Their mopeds were awesome too, what a way to get around when you were 14.
    The lbs got a shot at my money, and 6 months of reading told me that these bikes are a great deal. I work hard for my cash. I choose these guys. We're in an area where there is little competition and with my size, no inventory on the floor. These things made the decision easier.
    I took my bike in to get the derailleur tuned up And didn't have A torque wrench so they secured the front rotor too. I asked them to inflate the bluto too but they forgot. Getting value for your money is hard.

    The bikes direct 'tude is very common partly because if it doesn't say Gucci, it can't be good. I see it in my RC flying space too. Futaba, JR, Spektrum big bucks, I fly a $50 transmitter, 1/4 of the price, and never had a glitch with my China built unit.
    If it ain't a brand, it can't be good. Short sightedness is hard to accept when you spent all your money to look the part versus just getting out and riding.

    Consider yourself a savvy shopper and informed consumer. The LBS resents the loss of business to the Internet. It's a growing trend. It's nieve of them to not be nice to You regardless of what you buy. Service it with a smile and you may get more business in the future.
    H
    Having been directly involved in the bike industry and worked with many shops of all sizes I can tell you that bike sales do not drive the success of the LBS. Service/repair, parts and apparel are where we make money. Bring your bikes to them for service and they will be happy. There are far too many brands on the market for shops to cop an attitude.

    Forget the mail order nonsense too. It's not like the LBS bikes are delivered by storks. They bulk buy the minimum requirement to maintain the brand......and the bikes come in waves. Assembly and push out the door. Mix in some apparel, a helmet and it's a nice sell.

    LBS owners are not in it just for the money. They have to have a passion for cycling because they could work at Costco and make more....with better benefits.

    Ride on!

  42. #242
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    Quote Originally Posted by NRP View Post
    Learn how to maintain the bike yourself. It's not that difficult.
    Thanks, for the most part I do and have a whole private bike shop in the basement (3 stands and lots of specialty tools), but the higher end tools I won't invest in since they'll be so infrequently used. For this and questions I have trouble answering due to the new components I am not well versed in necessiate a trip the the LBS, which is one of the better ones out there. The industry moves so fast by the time I'm versed in something, it changes or is obsolete. I have a day job and can't keep up with how fast it moves while taking time to ride and do things around the house.

    SpartanBrewer has a goood point about the LBS not being in it for the money, but I get the impression a few there are. They do need to make money and I can't fault them for it, but they are less...forgiving...on pricing flexibility than some others. Still, they're great people and I'll continue to give them my patronage since they have earned it over the years. They're the type you drop off the 12-pack to on hot days so they'll be happy. I think we all know those bike shops and I am happy to have them around.

  43. #243
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    I hear you, Dilligaff. I've been riding fairly passionately for several dozen years, and the last bike I built up was only 7 years ago. But when I started to research bikes for a new build a couple months ago, I was shocked how much had changed in just a few years. Through axles and disc brakes being the most obvious. And bottom bracket standards have mostly been thrown out the window. SRAM used to be a smaller entity in the components market but have become much more mainstream. And then there are the minor details like clutch derailleurs and whatnot. It's a different world, for sure. But once you get some of the new technology sorted out, it's still just a bicycle with a limited number of parts.
    Motobecane Sturgis Bullet TI
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  44. #244
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    I made a little progress on the tubeless conversion the other day. I finally figured out how to break the bead on those Mulefut/Snowshoe bastards. It doesn't actually require brute force, but just a long time (15 minutes or so) of stepping on the tires, going all around the rim. Eventually they loosen up enough to get the bead broken in one spot and then it's not so bad. Altho, removing the tires from the rims required enough swearing to send my dog running from the room. And I managed to break 3 tire levers, too. So make sure you have a good supply of those if you're doing it the first time.

    Unfortunately, I didn't manage a successful conversion. I didn't have the Sun/Ringle tape on hand, but found some 2.88" Gorilla tape in a local store. Another wrench that I threw into the works was that I couldn't find Sun/Ringle rim strips, and was using a 64mm Surly (Rolling Darryl) version, which went on fairly easily but seemed to be a good fit. They didn't look significantly wider than the 60mm stock strips, so I don't think that was much of an issue. But the rim tape definitely wasn't doing the job since I had leaks all over the place. Both wheels would inflate to 20psi with a compressor, but only held air for about 10 minutes even with about 6oz of Stan's. So I'll have to try again with better/wider tape. I might pony up for the approved Sun/Ringle tape.

    For now, I'm just glad to have figured out how to separate the rim and tire.
    Motobecane Sturgis Bullet TI
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  45. #245
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    And here's something I figured out that might be helpful for anybody with a Bluto. If you want to put your bike on a car rack with the front wheel removed, you'll need a through-axle adapter. Make sure you get one wide enough for the Bluto fork. Most adapters are set up for a standard width fork.

    It looks like the best option is the Hurricane Brutus Fork Up (15x150) adapter. There's another thread about it already, but thought I'd mention it here..

    Fork mount roof rack w Bluto?
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  46. #246
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    Hey y'all, I just replaced my water bottle cage bolts with some nylon bolts. I noticed that there was absolutely no ti prep on these bolts. Please check your frames and apply ti prep where needed...luckily I won't need the three locations for anything. I use a camelback for hydration and tool carrying..

    Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk

  47. #247
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    Hey Joe from bikes direct, could you speak about the prep of these frames with components? If it is something the consumer should be doing no prop, just give us a little insight of frame prep while installing components. Or should we be taking to motobecane. Thanks for your time..

    Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk

  48. #248
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    I made a gushy post about the Al NTB: Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread - Page 114- Mtbr.com Moving all these components to a Ti frame indeed makes a pretty epic bike.

  49. #249
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    So will this bike fit 100mm rim/4.8s ie clownshoe w bud/lou ? Same for their carbon fork? Would love to see some pics of this setup.

  50. #250
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    Quote Originally Posted by tankhead10 View Post
    Hey Joe from bikes direct, could you speak about the prep of these frames with components? If it is something the consumer should be doing no prop, just give us a little insight of frame prep while installing components. Or should we be taking to motobecane. Thanks for your time..

    Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk
    Personally, I like to go through all my bikes and use anti-seize and teflon plumbers tape on all threaded parts and re-torque. On rotor bolts a bit of blue loctite is good too.

    On seatpost and stem / bar clamp areas a little bit of carbon friction paste. Of course, re-torque all cranks and every bolt periodically especially keep those pedals tight.

  51. #251
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    Thanks Joe

    Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk

  52. #252
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeFriday View Post
    And here's something I figured out that might be helpful for anybody with a Bluto. If you want to put your bike on a car rack with the front wheel removed, you'll need a through-axle adapter. Make sure you get one wide enough for the Bluto fork. Most adapters are set up for a standard width fork.

    It looks like the best option is the Hurricane Brutus Fork Up (15x150) adapter. There's another thread about it already, but thought I'd mention it here..

    Fork mount roof rack w Bluto?
    I'm a huge fan of the Kuat Trio - Products | Küat Racks

    It's fairly expensive, plus the adapters aren't cheap, but it's good quality and they do make adapters for just about every axle configuration (Comes with 100mm QR, 15 TA and 20 TA, and I purchased 135 QR and 150 TA).

  53. #253
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ol' Grey Pug View Post
    So will this bike fit 100mm rim/4.8s ie clownshoe w bud/lou ? Same for their carbon fork? Would love to see some pics of this setup.
    I've run the stock wheels (80mm) with 4.8 Knard and 4.8 Lou on the frame, no rub. The Knard is a huge tire too.

    I know that doesn't answer your question but I wanted to throw that out there :-)

    According to this site (How Fat can we go? | Blog | Surly Bikes) the Lou on a 100mm rim is 10mm wider than on an 82 mm rim.

    I'll post some pics of clearance of the Lou on 80mm rim so you can hopefully get somewhat of an idea of how much clearance Lou on 100mm will have.

    While I'm at it I'll grab some pics of my Bud w/ a Framed Alaskan carbon fork. I went with the Framed fork because it is available in white, which matches the aesthetic of my Sturgis Ti better (white logos and white Bluto). Based on photos of the BD carbon fork I wouldn't be surprised if they are manufactured by the same company, as they are very similar in appearance.

  54. #254
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeFriday View Post
    I made a little progress on the tubeless conversion the other day. I finally figured out how to break the bead on those Mulefut/Snowshoe bastards. It doesn't actually require brute force, but just a long time (15 minutes or so) of stepping on the tires, going all around the rim. Eventually they loosen up enough to get the bead broken in one spot and then it's not so bad. Altho, removing the tires from the rims required enough swearing to send my dog running from the room. And I managed to break 3 tire levers, too. So make sure you have a good supply of those if you're doing it the first time.

    Unfortunately, I didn't manage a successful conversion. I didn't have the Sun/Ringle tape on hand, but found some 2.88" Gorilla tape in a local store. Another wrench that I threw into the works was that I couldn't find Sun/Ringle rim strips, and was using a 64mm Surly (Rolling Darryl) version, which went on fairly easily but seemed to be a good fit. They didn't look significantly wider than the 60mm stock strips, so I don't think that was much of an issue. But the rim tape definitely wasn't doing the job since I had leaks all over the place. Both wheels would inflate to 20psi with a compressor, but only held air for about 10 minutes even with about 6oz of Stan's. So I'll have to try again with better/wider tape. I might pony up for the approved Sun/Ringle tape.

    For now, I'm just glad to have figured out how to separate the rim and tire.
    Spring for the Sun/Ringle tape. I've done 4 tubeless fat bike setups prior to this one, and between the Mulefut rim and the Sun/Ringle tape this was by far the easiest - and that's even with non tubeless-ready tires (Surly BFL/Knard summer, and Bud/Lou winter).

  55. #255
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    Quote Originally Posted by carbonguy View Post
    I like 'em! They are studded and freaking expensive, but whatch'a gonna do? They are mounted on Sarma 100's.
    carbonguy runs Dillinger 5 studded on 100mm Naran Sarma carbon rims. Seems to fit nicely.
    2016 Motobecane Sturgis Bullet Ti
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  56. #256
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chupathingee View Post
    I'm a huge fan of the Kuat Trio - Products | Küat Racks

    It's fairly expensive, plus the adapters aren't cheap, but it's good quality and they do make adapters for just about every axle configuration (Comes with 100mm QR, 15 TA and 20 TA, and I purchased 135 QR and 150 TA).
    Thanks for the info. I've been using my Thule system for almost 20 years now and it was fine in the past, but not quite cutting it with the fat bike. Looks like the Kuat Trio is a better setup. I just ordered one for $132 shipped. I'll have to get the 150 TA adapter, but with that it should be much more secure than the Thule/Hurricane setup.
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  57. #257
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    Here's my bike in winter mode. In addition to previous modifications I have mounted studded Bud and Lou tires and a Framed Alaskan Carbon fork and Moose Mitts pogies. I also tend to leave my frame bag and seat pack (Oveja Negra) mounted since changing temps and weather in the winter can dictate layers being added/removed.

    Motobecanes Titanium FatBike final specs and release date.-c2dvxigh.jpg

  58. #258
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    I received my large NTB Ti a few days ago but have been too sick to assemble it. Today I felt good enough to give it a try. I have to say I'm impressed.

    It weighs 34lbs 8 oz without pedals.

    Motobecanes Titanium FatBike final specs and release date.-image-m.jpg

    And 35 lbs 5 oz with the cheap 520 SPD's.

    Motobecanes Titanium FatBike final specs and release date.-image-m.jpg

    I'll swap out a few things and lighten it up some, but it's lighter than my early Pugs with a bunch of upgrades already, which comes in at just over 37 pounds.

    And there is a ton of room for tires. I did not see it posted, so I thought I'd post up the clearances on the stock Snowshoe's (120 tpi, 4.5").

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    Motobecanes Titanium FatBike final specs and release date.-image-m.jpg
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    And this is on the front:

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    Last edited by Dilligaff; 12-03-2015 at 08:38 AM.

  59. #259
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    Congrats! Hope you are feeling better........ enough to ride that beast....

  60. #260
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    I like this a lot. My only gripe is that the rear brake isn't tucked into the triangle like it is on the aluminum version.
    Quote Originally Posted by Optimus View Post
    Hell of a jump, dawg. Even though they're baggy shorts, I'm surprised that you can fit your balls into them.

  61. #261
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    Looks good!

    Just outta curiosity, what size is your frame? It weighs the same as my size small Sturgis Bullet ti.
    Motobecane Sturgis Bullet TI
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  62. #262
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chupathingee View Post
    I've run the stock wheels (80mm) with 4.8 Knard and 4.8 Lou on the frame, no rub. The Knard is a huge tire too.

    I know that doesn't answer your question but I wanted to throw that out there :-)

    According to this site (How Fat can we go? | Blog | Surly Bikes) the Lou on a 100mm rim is 10mm wider than on an 82 mm rim.

    I'll post some pics of clearance of the Lou on 80mm rim so you can hopefully get somewhat of an idea of how much clearance Lou on 100mm will have.

    While I'm at it I'll grab some pics of my Bud w/ a Framed Alaskan carbon fork. I went with the Framed fork because it is available in white, which matches the aesthetic of my Sturgis Ti better (white logos and white Bluto). Based on photos of the BD carbon fork I wouldn't be surprised if they are manufactured by the same company, as they are very similar in appearance.
    Here are pics of clearance with Bud/Lou tubeless at ~10 psi on the stock wheels. I've been running these tires for 2 winters, that combined with the tubeless setup means they're probably on the big side for Bud/Lou. Plus 10 psi is higher than you would run off road/in snow (I run that high for commuting on pavement only). The front fork is a Framed Alaskan.

    Motobecanes Titanium FatBike final specs and release date.-n4a39ksh.jpg

    Motobecanes Titanium FatBike final specs and release date.-tcgnweah.jpg

    Motobecanes Titanium FatBike final specs and release date.-qbwuniwh.jpg

    Motobecanes Titanium FatBike final specs and release date.-eeutexjh.jpg

    I just noticed that my angles kinda suck, and that the actual clearance is pretty close to 1/2" on each side for the front fork, a little less in the rear. That means you *should* be able to run Bud/Lou on 100mm rims without rubbing (but don't quote me/do so at your own risk). It will be close (10mm extra width = .4 inches), but if you're running tubes you should have more room.

    I'll get better pics of the frame clearance from more straight on tonight.

  63. #263
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    Chupathingee,
    Looks sharp with the Framed fork. Did you have to change any headset cups or races to fit the fork?
    Also, with the Bud, you're running a 1X front so what clearance do you have and how do you think that will fit a 2X when it comes to chain rub?
    H
    2016 Motobecane Sturgis Bullet Ti
    2015 Specialized FatBoy 24"
    2016 Motobecane Boris X5
    1988 Peugeot Orient Express

  64. #264
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeFriday View Post
    Looks good!

    Just outta curiosity, what size is your frame? It weighs the same as my size small Sturgis Bullet ti.
    Sorry, it's a large frame, I added it to my post.

    I also never noticed the brake mount.

    I thought I'd post clearances because the Ti and Al frames are made in different factories and people have mentioned different clearances.

  65. #265
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dilligaff View Post
    And there is a ton of room for tires. I did not see it posted, so I thought I'd post up the clearances on the stock Snowshoe XL's (120 tpi, 4.5").
    FYI...the 4.5" are not "XL". The XL's are 4.8" and have an almost completely different tread/block pattern.

  66. #266
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shelterock View Post
    Chupathingee,
    Looks sharp with the Framed fork. Did you have to change any headset cups or races to fit the fork?
    Also, with the Bud, you're running a 1X front so what clearance do you have and how do you think that will fit a 2X when it comes to chain rub?
    H
    I purchased an FSA 1.5" crown race, specifically this one for $11 from Universal Cycles:

    FSA Crown Races
    Orbit Xtreme-Pro 1.5" (49mm)
    10605-67311

    The Framed fork came with two split crown races (my LBS said you can install them without a press), compression plug, and axle.

    Regarding the chain clearance I'll take a pic this evening of the chain in the biggest cog. I purchased a smaller chainring to get my granny gear ratios back for the winter, and I'll switch back to the current larger chainring in the summer.

  67. #267
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dilligaff View Post
    I received my large NTB Ti a few days ago but have been too sick to assemble it. Today I felt good enough to give it a try. I have to say I'm impressed.

    It weighs 34lbs 8 oz without pedals.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    It looks like the Sturgis Ti and the NTB Ti weigh about the same:

    Quote Originally Posted by Chupathingee View Post
    I took the pedals and the reflectors off to weigh it again, since I realized that tends to be how people weigh their bikes...


    This is a completely stock 19" Motobecane Sturgis Bullet Ti, and it weighs 34 lb 8 oz (34.5 pounds). This is consistent with the weight I got earlier with pedals/reflectors.


    Attachment 1019191


    Attachment 1019192

    Motobecanes Titanium FatBike final specs and release date.

    Given the parts list I would expect the NTB Ti to be about half a pound lighter than the Sturgis Ti. Perhaps it can be chalked up to scale margin of error.
    Last edited by Chupathingee; 12-03-2015 at 12:26 PM.

  68. #268
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    I think they weigh 'relatively' the same. I'm sure the frames are the same. The tires are actually different. The Sturgis gets 72tpi Snowshoes and the NTB gets a nicer (presumably lighter) 120tpi version. The crankset is probably a quarter pound lighter, as well. And there are a few other minor weight losses in other components, but nothing significant. So, if you compare the same size frames, the NTB will likely weigh about a pound less (as a guess). That's why your size Large NTB weighs the same as my Small Sturgis Bullet.

    If you convert to tubeless, weigh your tires separately so we can get an idea what they are at.
    Motobecane Sturgis Bullet TI
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  69. #269
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    Quote Originally Posted by neons97 View Post
    FYI...the 4.5" are not "XL". The XL's are 4.8" and have an almost completely different tread/block pattern.
    You're right, I stand corrected. I'm not sure where I got that (incorrect) information from.

  70. #270
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeFriday View Post
    I think they weigh 'relatively' the same. I'm sure the frames are the same. The tires are actually different. The Sturgis gets 72tpi Snowshoes and the NTB gets a nicer (presumably lighter) 120tpi version. The crankset is probably a quarter pound lighter, as well. And there are a few other minor weight losses in other components, but nothing significant. So, if you compare the same size frames, the NTB will likely weigh about a pound less (as a guess). That's why your size Large NTB weighs the same as my Small Sturgis Bullet.

    If you convert to tubeless, weigh your tires separately so we can get an idea what they are at.
    I am referring to bikes of the same size. According to each of our scales, my Sturgis Ti in large and his NTB Ti size large weigh the same - 34 lb 8 oz. Breaking down the components:

    Crank - Ride weighs 30g more than Turbine.
    Tires - 72 tpi tires weigh 90g more than 120 tpi tires (Vee's site is confusing but I think I got this one right).
    Brakes - R weighs 5g more than RS.
    Rear derailleur - X7 weighs 11 grams less? than X9.
    Shifters - X5 weighs 18g more than X7.

    The Sturgis Ti only weighs 132g more by spec. Less of a difference than I thought, but still 4.65 oz. We have the same displayed weight probably due to scale inconsistencies.

    That being said the upgrades on the NTB are better, though not significantly lighter. Tires make all the difference in the world, and I would imagine the drivetrain on the NTB shifts a lot smoother/quicker. I swapped all the parts off my bike almost as soon as I got it, so I can't really comment on any of the components. I ended up going with the Sturgis because I was selling all the components on my old bike anyway, and I liked the look of white :-)

  71. #271
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    Chuppathinge-Thanks for posting the pics/measurements! Sweet looking bike you have there

  72. #272
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    yeah, I went with the Sturgis Bullet for the same reason. I think a white fork on titanium looks a lot nicer than black. But that's just me.

    After spending much of my morning at work scouring the web for info on the 72tpi Snowshoe, I finally found someone with firsthand experience..

    Vee Rubber Snow Shoe 4.5 ? How To Lie About The Size Of Your Unit | Electric-FatBike.com

    According to the blogger's scale, it comes in at 1225 grams. Apparently not much different than the 120tpi version.
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  73. #273
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chupathingee View Post
    I purchased an FSA 1.5" crown race, specifically this one for $11 from Universal Cycles:

    FSA Crown Races
    Orbit Xtreme-Pro 1.5" (49mm)
    10605-67311

    The Framed fork came with two split crown races (my LBS said you can install them without a press), compression plug, and axle.

    Regarding the chain clearance I'll take a pic this evening of the chain in the biggest cog. I purchased a smaller chainring to get my granny gear ratios back for the winter, and I'll switch back to the current larger chainring in the summer.
    Thanks, very useful.
    H
    2016 Motobecane Sturgis Bullet Ti
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  74. #274
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    Newbie to fatbikes here... Got a a NB Ti and looking to go tubeless... Can someone point me to instructions or a vid with materials needed and process? Thanks!

  75. #275
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vasilis View Post
    Newbie to fatbikes here... Got a a NB Ti and looking to go tubeless... Can someone point me to instructions or a vid with materials needed and process? Thanks!
    Search in Google for the name of the rim and 'tubeless'. You get a bunch of videos and threads

  76. #276
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vasilis View Post
    Newbie to fatbikes here... Got a a NB Ti and looking to go tubeless... Can someone point me to instructions or a vid with materials needed and process? Thanks!
    My tubeless conversion experience Mule FUT with Maxxis Mammoth
    Everything you need to know. Buy the mulefut tape and rim strips and it's easy.
    2016 Motobecane Sturgis Bullet Ti
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  77. #277
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeFriday View Post
    yeah, I went with the Sturgis Bullet for the same reason. I think a white fork on titanium looks a lot nicer than black. But that's just me.

    After spending much of my morning at work scouring the web for info on the 72tpi Snowshoe, I finally found someone with firsthand experience..

    Vee Rubber Snow Shoe 4.5 ? How To Lie About The Size Of Your Unit | Electric-FatBike.com

    According to the blogger's scale, it comes in at 1225 grams. Apparently not much different than the 120tpi version.
    FWIW, my 120 tpi 4.5" Snowshoes came out to 1256 and 1309 grams on my scale.

  78. #278
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    So I think I'm going to get a new fatbike, but I can't decide if I want the TI version or Al. I've always wanted a ti bike, and know I would love it if I got it, but I'm a college student and the $500 difference is a lot to me.
    I tend to break frames, and I know the TI would hold up to me better, but I like the shape of the aluminum tubes and the way they did the rear brake.

    I also prefer the NT color scheme with the black bluto and labels, but I'm not shelling out another $300 for it.

    On an unrelated note: how are the labels adhered to the frame? Would it be possible to remove them or is it too much work? I'm sure that at this level they aren't just slapping stickers on it, but I still think rearranging the letters to say MOOT would be funny.
    Quote Originally Posted by Optimus View Post
    Hell of a jump, dawg. Even though they're baggy shorts, I'm surprised that you can fit your balls into them.

  79. #279
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtdawg21892 View Post
    So I think I'm going to get a new fatbike, but I can't decide if I want the TI version or Al. I've always wanted a ti bike, and know I would love it if I got it, but I'm a college student and the $500 difference is a lot to me.
    I tend to break frames, and I know the TI would hold up to me better, but I like the shape of the aluminum tubes and the way they did the rear brake.

    I also prefer the NT color scheme with the black bluto and labels, but I'm not shelling out another $300 for it.

    On an unrelated note: how are the labels adhered to the frame? Would it be possible to remove them or is it too much work? I'm sure that at this level they aren't just slapping stickers on it, but I still think rearranging the letters to say MOOT would be funny.
    Unsure exactly how they are held on, they appear to be more than just decals/stickers. The important thing to remember is if you remove the decals you forfeit your 100 year warranty:

    http://www.motobecane.com/warranty/

    "WARRANTY DETAILS
    This warranty is void in its entirety by any physical/cosmetic alteration of the frame, paint, decals..."

    That being said I really wanted to change mine to MOTOBACON.
    Last edited by Chupathingee; 12-07-2015 at 09:51 AM.
    Motobecane Sturgis Ti
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  80. #280
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chupathingee View Post

    That being said I really wanted to change mine to MOTOBACON.
    I read the same thing and may still change it to MOTOBACON.

    Somehow I just have the urge to put that on my frame. I even thought of a white overwrap that would just cover the original logo and have mine on the outside. Now to just find a company that does it.

  81. #281
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dilligaff View Post
    I read the same thing and may still change it to MOTOBACON.

    Somehow I just have the urge to put that on my frame. I even thought of a white overwrap that would just cover the original logo and have mine on the outside. Now to just find a company that does it.
    If you find one, let me know...
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  82. #282
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtdawg21892 View Post
    So I think I'm going to get a new fatbike, but I can't decide if I want the TI version or Al. I've always wanted a ti bike, and know I would love it if I got it, but I'm a college student and the $500 difference is a lot to me.
    I tend to break frames, and I know the TI would hold up to me better, but I like the shape of the aluminum tubes and the way they did the rear brake.

    I also prefer the NT color scheme with the black bluto and labels, but I'm not shelling out another $300 for it.

    On an unrelated note: how are the labels adhered to the frame? Would it be possible to remove them or is it too much work? I'm sure that at this level they aren't just slapping stickers on it, but I still think rearranging the letters to say MOOT would be funny.

    I say buy it!!! If you would like to take mine for a longer test ride let me know. The only thing I plan on changing is I want a set of 29 plus wheels for the summer and maybe a ridged fork just for comparison purposes. I'm having a hard time dialing in the bluto but that just might be a learning curve.

  83. #283
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shelterock View Post
    Chupathingee,
    Looks sharp with the Framed fork. Did you have to change any headset cups or races to fit the fork?
    Also, with the Bud, you're running a 1X front so what clearance do you have and how do you think that will fit a 2X when it comes to chain rub?
    H
    Long overdue response. Here's a pic of the clearance in the biggest cog (easiest gear) with single Absolute Black chainring on Race Face Turbine cinch cranks:

    Motobecanes Titanium FatBike final specs and release date.-bblfaxsh.jpg
    Motobecane Sturgis Ti
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  84. #284
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    Ok, I've been drooling over the pics and info! Once I knew the BD had a Ti Fatty, it was only a matter of time.

    Ordered Monday, expected delivery 12/10 Thurs. I've got a Ti Sturgis 21" on it's way. This will be my 3rd BD purchase (ProSL 29er, and wife's 700HT). What are folks doing for pedals and grips?

    Right now I typically use clipless Shimano 545s on my 29er, but may use a used set of Kona Wa Wa platforms I have laying around. For grips, thinking about going Ergon GP1 since I have used them on my 29er and love the comfort.

    Thoughts?

  85. #285
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    I am using egg beater 2 for pedals and just put on pro foam grips. $17.00 from price point. My right hand sometimes gets pain from the Ritchey grips. Best of luck, the bike really is sweet.

    Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk

  86. #286
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    Quote Originally Posted by tankhead10 View Post
    I am using egg beater 2 for pedals and just put on pro foam grips. $17.00 from price point. My right hand sometimes gets pain from the Ritchey grips. Best of luck, the bike really is sweet.

    Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk
    Thanks Tank! I'll try out platforms, but I'm so used to clipless for the climbs, we will see how long this setup lasts.

    Can't wait to hit the trails this weekend with it

  87. #287
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chupathingee View Post
    Long overdue response. Here's a pic of the clearance in the biggest cog (easiest gear) with single Absolute Black chainring on Race Face Turbine cinch cranks:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	BbLfAxSh.jpg 
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    Chupathingee, Thanks, looks like it works.

    How you like the AbsoluteBlack product? Oval or Round?
    H
    2016 Motobecane Sturgis Bullet Ti
    2015 Specialized FatBoy 24"
    2016 Motobecane Boris X5
    1988 Peugeot Orient Express

  88. #288
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    I will try and finally post up some pics of the bike today...

    Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk

  89. #289
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Dirte View Post
    Ok, I've been drooling over the pics and info! Once I knew the BD had a Ti Fatty, it was only a matter of time.

    What are folks doing for pedals and grips?

    Right now I typically use clipless Shimano 545s on my 29er, but may use a used set of Kona Wa Wa platforms I have laying around. For grips, thinking about going Ergon GP1 since I have used them on my 29er and love the comfort.

    Thoughts?
    I bought Xpedo Sprye Pedals. Size 14 shoe works well. They are not that grippy and choice of shoe 5Ten vs street shoe probably helps with the stickyness. I haven't changed the grips, and won't till I upgrade the bars and the X5 shifter when I get to it.
    H
    2016 Motobecane Sturgis Bullet Ti
    2015 Specialized FatBoy 24"
    2016 Motobecane Boris X5
    1988 Peugeot Orient Express

  90. #290
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shelterock View Post
    I bought Xpedo Sprye Pedals. Size 14 shoe works well. They are not that grippy and choice of shoe 5Ten vs street shoe probably helps with the stickyness. I haven't changed the grips, and won't till I upgrade the bars and the X5 shifter when I get to it.
    H
    I use 45nrth Heiruspecs for pedals and Ergon grips. I find the Ergon grips help keep numbness down. I LOVE my Heiruspecs, but I've been told these are similar but better: Race Face

    I've been told the bearings last longer. Also, the pin design is better - inserted from the rear instead of the front. With Heiruspecs if your pins get worn flat you can't remove them.
    Motobecane Sturgis Ti
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  91. #291
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shelterock View Post
    Chupathingee, Thanks, looks like it works.

    How you like the AbsoluteBlack product? Oval or Round?
    H
    I love it. They look great and the oval does smooth power output - not substantially but I feel like I noticed it right after I switched going up steep hills. Honestly I don't think about it that much, which is a good thing I suppose. I bought one for my single speed mountain bike as well. Have been running them since this summer.

    I bought a set of rollers recently (gonna start spending 30 mins every other day on them before I shower in the AM, not to replace fat biking), and a lot of people have said they help you smooth out your pedaling. I worried for a moment that if I develop a smooth pedaling motion on round rings that the oval rings will throw me off, but I think the fat bike/mountain bike are different enough from road biking that it won't be an issue...
    Motobecane Sturgis Ti
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  92. #292
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pjm1969 View Post
    I say buy it!!! If you would like to take mine for a longer test ride let me know. The only thing I plan on changing is I want a set of 29 plus wheels for the summer and maybe a ridged fork just for comparison purposes. I'm having a hard time dialing in the bluto but that just might be a learning curve.
    I'd buy one if the spacing was 177 and it had sliders, but 197 is just too wide for a multi season ride, esp if I want to run 29+. To really get the benefit of summer wheels, you need to have a short CS option.

    So does BD not make a 177 rear end? Strange, I though they made at least one, but even the Lurch is 197.

  93. #293
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    I'd buy one if the spacing was 177 and it had sliders, but 197 is just too wide for a multi season ride, esp if I want to run 29+. To really get the benefit of summer wheels, you need to have a short CS option.

    So does BD not make a 177 rear end? Strange, I though they made at least one, but even the Lurch is 197.
    The boris is a 170 QR rear and there may be a few others. 29 will give you benefits for sure even with 197.
    H
    2016 Motobecane Sturgis Bullet Ti
    2015 Specialized FatBoy 24"
    2016 Motobecane Boris X5
    1988 Peugeot Orient Express

  94. #294
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    You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to Chupathingee again.
    You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to Shelterock again.

  95. #295
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    Quote Originally Posted by joebikesdirect View Post
    You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to Chupathingee again.
    You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to Shelterock again.
    Yeah, Chupathingee and other added value with pics and measurments related to the TI frame and deserves the rep. He's been on the front of the Ti frame upgrades and I value what i've learnt from his posts. Haven't quite figured out the rep thing but I don't think it's missplaced or miss guided.
    H
    2016 Motobecane Sturgis Bullet Ti
    2015 Specialized FatBoy 24"
    2016 Motobecane Boris X5
    1988 Peugeot Orient Express

  96. #296
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shelterock View Post
    Yeah, Chupathingee and other added value with pics and measurments related to the TI frame and deserves the rep. He's been on the front of the Ti frame upgrades and I value what i've learnt from his posts. Haven't quite figured out the rep thing but I don't think it's missplaced or miss guided.
    H
    Click on the little star on the lower left of each post to give reputation and comments
    Last edited by joebikesdirect; 12-10-2015 at 09:06 AM.

  97. #297
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    Besides the wheelset on BD.com, what other combos are available in 29er that would fit this bike? with a 150/197 I'm just no familiar with what my options in 29er wheels/tires and I want to use my Fatty as a summer and winter all-purpose.

    I may buy the BD wheel set b/c of the price, but from what I've read on here, I'm not excited about the Novatec hubs being used.

  98. #298
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Dirte View Post
    Besides the wheelset on BD.com, what other combos are available in 29er that would fit this bike? with a 150/197 I'm just no familiar with what my options in 29er wheels/tires and I want to use my Fatty as a summer and winter all-purpose.

    I may buy the BD wheel set b/c of the price, but from what I've read on here, I'm not excited about the Novatec hubs being used.
    The Novatec hubs seem fine to me, time will tell how they are. My only gripe is the caps on the front hub that I can see myself easily losing...

    You'll want 150 TA front and 197 TA rear. Frankly for the price I don't believe the BD set can be beat. A quick google search didn't come up with any pre-built sets. I don't think you'll even find much in the used market since 197 TA hasn't been around for very long.

    You could always build your own. I'm partial to Industry 9 hubs but the hubs will cost you twice as much as the whole BD wheelset...
    Motobecane Sturgis Ti
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  99. #299
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chupathingee View Post
    The Novatec hubs seem fine to me, time will tell how they are. My only gripe is the caps on the front hub that I can see myself easily losing...
    FYI - many members suggested using a tiny dab of silicone or loctite on the inside of those.

  100. #300
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    Quote Originally Posted by joebikesdirect View Post
    FYI - many members suggested using a tiny dab of silicone or loctite on the inside of those.
    This is good advice, but whatever you do, be absolutely sure not to get loctite on the axle.
    My friend did that, and getting the through axle (now bound to the spacers) off again without destroying it was one of the most difficult procedures I've ever done on a bicycle.
    Quote Originally Posted by Optimus View Post
    Hell of a jump, dawg. Even though they're baggy shorts, I'm surprised that you can fit your balls into them.

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