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  1. #101
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    How is that consistent with being a 19" frame? It should have been
    (114.5 cm - 46 cm )/2.54 = 27.0". No?

    My 17.5" is coming next week and keep wondering if it's going to be too small. I am 5'11" and BD's size chart says 17.5" is good up to 6'. I have the 17" X9 and had to put longer stem and longer set-back seatpost on it.

    Has anyone gone through the ordeal of exchanging for a different size with BD?

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by carbonguy View Post
    How is that consistent with being a 19" frame? It should have been
    (114.5 cm - 46 cm )/2.54 = 27.0". No?

    My 17.5" is coming next week and keep wondering if it's going to be too small. I am 5'11" and BD's size chart says 17.5" is good up to 6'. I have the 17" X9 and had to put longer stem and longer set-back seatpost on it.

    Has anyone gone through the ordeal of exchanging for a different size with BD?

    Oh crap, you're right. I thought Chupathingee had a XL frame, but it turns out his is a Large/19" (Shelterock, who just posted a bunch of pics, is the person with the XL). Yeah, that means BD's geometry chart is way off.

    Shelterock, can you measure the front center of your bike for me (distance from BB center to front axle center, with handlebars as straight as possible)?

  3. #103
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    I Measured Cranks BB Center to Bluto Axle Center and 28.5-28.6 inches is what I get.

    Also, My bike was christenned with Dog poop today. That's it, she's broken in!!

    XL is indeed 21" and she's roomy. Q factor is still a bit of an adjustment physically and mentally because you see so much space down there. No clearance issues on the heels and Calfes. At 260lbs I do get some frame flex but smoooth smooth ride... I may look for a high angle stem and/or riser bar because at 6'7" and 46 yrs old, I'm not as flexible as I once was.
    My son on his FatBoy 24" and I just blasted down the beach here in LI NY with a 30-40mph east wind, 22t-10t gear and moving! just exhilerating childlike fun. Grinning still.
    Cheers,
    H

  4. #104
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    Thanks Shelterock! So the XL wheelbase is around 1186mm. Not too far off BD's chart, but damn, that's a long bike. Should be super stable at higher speeds.

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by OhioPT View Post
    Thanks Shelterock! So the XL wheelbase is around 1186mm. Not too far off BD's chart, but damn, that's a long bike. Should be super stable at higher speeds.
    Big Guy Big Bike hehehehe. No such thing as high speed. I live on a hill. Roll down to beach. Granny gear to get up and most people walk it. So good steep hill for 1000 yrds. I let'er roll and in no way did the speed cause any concern because I got to terminal velocity quickly, which wasn't very fast. On my 26" 2.25" tire you're flying.
    I'm like a big sail on this hilarious, rumbling tires, clown bike. Love it.

  6. #106
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    Amazing first ride

    Quote Originally Posted by Shelterock View Post
    I Measured Cranks BB Center to Bluto Axle Center and 28.5-28.6 inches is what I get.

    Also, My bike was christenned with Dog poop today. That's it, she's broken in!!

    XL is indeed 21" and she's roomy. Q factor is still a bit of an adjustment physically and mentally because you see so much space down there. No clearance issues on the heels and Calfes. At 260lbs I do get some frame flex but smoooth smooth ride... I may look for a high angle stem and/or riser bar because at 6'7" and 46 yrs old, I'm not as flexible as I once was.
    My son on his FatBoy 24" and I just blasted down the beach here in LI NY with a 30-40mph east wind, 22t-10t gear and moving! just exhilerating childlike fun. Grinning still.
    Cheers,
    H
    I took my XL out for a 3.5hr ride today. Ride bike paths, two technical trails and some serious hills. I'm 265lbs and didn't pick up any frame flex. The Bluto was working overtime on a few descents over nasty roots. I stayed in the big ring on the climbs and was surprised how well the frame transferred power. I was completely gassed at the end of the ride so I may not have noticed the frame as much.

    The top tube length is ideal for me, all torso, but at 6'3 there is little extra clearance for the jewels. If I was going to focus more on technical trails the Large might be a better option.

    Another bright spot....I was 261 after the ride. Pre-beer refuel.
    Last edited by SpartanBrewer; 10-03-2015 at 05:51 PM. Reason: Spelling

  7. #107
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    We just went out and rode 5-6 miles, a guess, of beach around the peconic bay. Tire pressure is key. This morning I did 2 miles with the dog on the ocean beach. On the ocean I went too low pressure and it felt weird. The tire felt like it was rippling in front of the contact patch. This afternoon on the bay beach with more rocks, high pressure, and it was great. Need to get a gauge and start taking notes on what I like. A total blast.

  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shelterock View Post
    Thanks Joe, Are we talking a spot to zip tie the cable, not a hole for internal routing then?
    H
    There are dedicated dropper mounts on the bottom of the top tube.

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  9. #109
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    just an update. Received it Thursday, put it together Saturday night (played with it a little), got it on some "trails" Sunday evening. It weighs about 34lbs (will try to get a better weigh in latter). Peddles much easier than I expected. Still getting used to the geometry - it is tall, but with a shorter reach than I was expecting (will eventually put it side by side with my old bike and see if the differences I feel are visible). All in all I love the bike. My body needs the more upright riding position anyway at the moment.

    Only problem is it will probably cost me an extra $1500. Stepson was eying it up pretty hard, might order him a Lurch this week (and a bigger bicycle carrier).

    Now for the first ride (from hell) report. I parked at my barn, with the plan to head east on a surveyors cut (past my bow stand and feeder), then north up an oil pipeline right of way. There are 3 nice dips right after the bow stand, so it was going to be exciting.

    Stalled and fell after the first dip (wrong gear). No problems (have not ridden in years), got going again. At the bottom of the second dip - something hit me in the ear - @#$@#% bee. While still peddling (aka getting away), tried to get it out of my ear - not sure if it was a bee, but got stung 3 times. Of course, fell on the final climb out to boot (at least sitting with my but on the ground let me get the stinger out of the side of my face.

    Rest of the ride was great (other than the right side of my head going numb)- sand was nothing. Going to love this bike.

    Looking back, the bee (or whatever it was) attacked slightly after I went over a fallen tree. Will move that tree before my next ride (from a sealed cab - just in case there are more surprises). I am overly paranoid about africanized bees

  10. #110
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    Answering my own question now, maybe it will help someone. My bike seems to fit fine, only rode it for ~10 second in the driveway last night, but the 17.5" frame seemed to fit alright for my 5'11" height.

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by mousehunter View Post
    Only problem is it will probably cost me an extra $1500. Stepson was eying it up pretty hard, might order him a Lurch this week (and a bigger bicycle carrier).
    Sorry to hear about the rough ride. I bought my 7 yr old a Fatboy 24" and in an effort to let him ride, bought this Sturgis Ti, and now bought a Boris X5 for my 9yr old and my wife is like" where's mine?"

    $850 + $2000 +$600 + 3 Brassknuckle Fatties $600, Pumps, Skid Lids, couple tools, water bootles and pounts, probably a $4500+ ordeal to get Fat and counting....

    H
    Last edited by Shelterock; 10-07-2015 at 08:44 AM. Reason: spelling

  12. #112
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    Question, New to Fat Bikes, but riding my Sturgis Ti on the beach and playing with air pressures, The rear wheel is sending a vibration through the bike in a rythem of small pulses, fading in and out while riding. I have not felt it on the road with higher pressures. Was just curious if anyone else get a sense of that?

    The Snowshoe 26x4.5 has a good amount of self steer at low pressure. Feels like the bike wants to turn more than you want and wants to tuck the front wheel under in a sharp turn. I'm still adjusting my sensory feel on the fattie.

    Also at 260 lbs and 6'7", the 21" XL is good. The bars could be higher and the seat could be wider. Plenty of room in the cockpit, so I'm glad I won't have to spring for the 23" El Gordo Ventanna frame. I pumped up the Bluto to 150psi. It came at about 90psi stock and could easily crush it down under breaking. at 150 psi I get good compliance and less dive under breaking. May still go up in pressure.
    H

  13. #113
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    My Night Train (original version, non-bullet), size 17.5" weighed exactly 34.9lbs out of the box (no pedals, no reflectors). The bare-frame weight was 2200g on the dot (or 4.85lbs)

    The current/new Night Train Bullet (aluminum and with Bluto) should weigh 256g less than mine theoretically (-410g for two Mulefut rims vs. HL80, -230g for RaceFace cranks vs. Samox, +396g for Bluto). So the new/current NT Bullet (alloy) should theoretically weigh 34.5lbs. (The Sturgis should be ~200g heavier because of the 72tpi vs. 120tpi tires...all other components are negligible in weight between the two models)

    The RF Ride crank comparison is for my 170mm spindle version of the Ride cranks. It is for crank arm/BB only. No rings. So add a few grams back on for the extra 20mm length.

    I'm surprised at how heavy this Ti frame is. It basically weighs the same, if not more than the aluminum version. But none-the-less, I'm drooling over the ti frame and wished I waited....






    Quote Originally Posted by T-X-N View Post
    I'm just curious, does anyone know what the Night Train Bullet with Al Frame weigh in at?

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shelterock View Post
    Question, New to Fat Bikes, but riding my Sturgis Ti on the beach and playing with air pressures, The rear wheel is sending a vibration through the bike in a rythem of small pulses, fading in and out while riding. I have not felt it on the road with higher pressures. Was just curious if anyone else get a sense of that?

    The Snowshoe 26x4.5 has a good amount of self steer at low pressure. Feels like the bike wants to turn more than you want and wants to tuck the front wheel under in a sharp turn. I'm still adjusting my sensory feel on the fattie.

    Also at 260 lbs and 6'7", the 21" XL is good. The bars could be higher and the seat could be wider. Plenty of room in the cockpit, so I'm glad I won't have to spring for the 23" El Gordo Ventanna frame. I pumped up the Bluto to 150psi. It came at about 90psi stock and could easily crush it down under breaking. at 150 psi I get good compliance and less dive under breaking. May still go up in pressure.
    H
    Hi Shelterrock - there is a pressure / weight guide printed on the fork leg of the Bluto and all rockshox air forks. AFAIK 90psi is for riders around 150 lbs?
    Check out this thread for tuning from users like you
    Bluto Users Whats your setup

    Warning - 200PSI is max for Bluto

    Motobecanes Titanium FatBike final specs and release date.-screen-shot-2015-10-08-2.37.24-pm.png

  15. #115
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    Hi Joe,

    Yes, I'm at 150psi now up from the shipping pressure of 90psi. I'm aware of the max too. Thank you for confirming the tables. Don't want the thing blowing up!!. I'm loving the bike. Tire pressure is a learning curve. Did 3.5 miles on the beach for the morning dog walk. great product, well built. Let's hope it lasts too.

    off topic, I received my Boris X5 today. Bent derailleur hanger. You guys doing anthing about those? I put the spare on but still would like to have a spare....

    Best,
    H

  16. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shelterock View Post
    Hi Joe,

    Yes, I'm at 150psi now up from the shipping pressure of 90psi. I'm aware of the max too. Thank you for confirming the tables. Don't want the thing blowing up!!. I'm loving the bike. Tire pressure is a learning curve. Did 3.5 miles on the beach for the morning dog walk. great product, well built. Let's hope it lasts too.

    off topic, I received my Boris X5 today. Bent derailleur hanger. You guys doing anthing about those? I put the spare on but still would like to have a spare....

    Best,
    H
    Unless it's the crappy kind you can just straighten them.
    It's pretty straightforward, but the tool of like $50. I went ahead and bought one, but I ride a lot so I knew I'd get my use out of it.

    Other option is pay $20 for your lbs to do it. FYI, they have to be installed on the bike with the rear wheel on to straighten... So don't show up with just the hanger!

  17. #117
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    It is super easy to straighten a hanger as long as it is only slightly bent. But it could break much easier later.

    If the aluminum shows creases, it's too bent to straighten.

    We always suggest using a new hanger but YMMV and you assume all risks if you decide to straighten your own hanger. That being said, I've straightened my own hangers for years without having one break JRA (just riding along)

    Email bd4servicecenter@aol.com and send them pics of your bent hanger out of the box they'll take care of you

    Check out this video for straightening hangers DIY
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kxuB1MLMd7w

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by tfinator View Post
    Unless it's the crappy kind you can just straighten them.
    It's pretty straightforward, but the tool of like $50. I went ahead and bought one, but I ride a lot so I knew I'd get my use out of it.

    Other option is pay $20 for your lbs to do it. FYI, they have to be installed on the bike with the rear wheel on to straighten... So don't show up with just the hanger!
    ive always had good luck just throwing it into a bench vice and getting it "straight enough". might not shift at it's full potential, but its plenty good for a spare for when you just need to get out of the woods.
    Quote Originally Posted by Optimus View Post
    Hell of a jump, dawg. Even though they're baggy shorts, I'm surprised that you can fit your balls into them.

  19. #119
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    <long post apology goes here>

    Hi Guys,

    It's been great reading about everyone's experiences anticipating and/or getting their Ti Moto fatbikes, so I thought I'd chime in with mine.

    My 19" Night Train arrived on Tuesday, and Garmin tells me I've spent 36 miles and about 5,300' with it since then.

    This bike is *smooth*.

    Aside from adjusting to the monster Q-factor, have had no problem getting comfortable on the bike and it rides/pedals very well. Handling isn't quick, but is very stable in turns and switchbacks, and it keeps its line well on climbs. I'm a Jr. Clyde with a fairly high cadence, and haven't noticed any frame flex yet (even on steeper pitches/higher efforts).

    I'm mainly a XC rider so I set the bike up to mimic my XC bike. Then I just started riding the steep kitty litter and moon dust covered trails and fire roads in the SF Bay Area, and this bike has performed flawlessly. Need to play more with the Bluto, but it is taking the edge off of the concrete-like ruts I need to deal with out here.

    Still in my New Bike daze, but I'm very pleased with this bike after spending a few hours with it. Looking forward to many more.

    Cheers,
    Paul


    A few notes:
    - The frame is beautiful. Welds and finish look very nice.
    - Bike arrived with blemish on the same "O" as shelterock pictures in post #97. Will be giving BikesDirect that feedback as this must be happening prior to shipment to be so consistent.
    - My bike came with X-9 shifters. Spec sheet was (and still is) X-7 when I bought it. I'm very happy to get this upgrade. Everything else is per the specs.
    - Bike arrived with a spare derailleur hanger. Little things...
    - No surprises during assembly (just the joy of carefully extracting this behemoth from its box!).
    - Did need to put on some zip ties for hoses/cables where a couple clips were missing and a couple more looked ready to pop off. Recommend having some on hand when assembling just in case.
    - Shifting and Braking did not need any adjustment out of the box. I *didn't* expect this, and was prepared to align/adjust derailleurs and brakes as part of setting up the new bike. This is actually my 3rd Motobecane and they have been 3 for 3 in terms of shifting and braking just working right out of the box for me. This includes no need for bleeding 2x Avid hydro brakesets and 1 Shimano.
    - Snowshoes with tubes had some self-steer for me at 8psi and below. 10 psi it is for now. Probably sitting around 210 lbs all geared/watered up.

    Motobecanes Titanium FatBike final specs and release date.-img_3339.jpgMotobecanes Titanium FatBike final specs and release date.-img_3342.jpg

  20. #120
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    Bike is done! At this point the only stock components are the frame, fork, and wheelset. I have it down to 31.5 lb. The drivetrain is 1x10 Shimano XT with 42t cog and a 30t chainring. I might order a smaller chainring, and I'll definitely be throwing a carbon fork on for the winter. XT brakes, carbon seatpost and bar.

    Motobecanes Titanium FatBike final specs and release date.-mpgcwroh.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  21. #121
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    Chupa,
    You can't post that you updated everything about except the frame and fork. Tell us about the tires BFL on front. Can't make out the rear. Don't leave us hanging. This is a different frame than the alu night train/ Sturgis. How and what did you fit? What tube/tubeless, rims trips and other skeletons did you find tearing the bike down?
    H

  22. #122
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    Sweet! Paul, looks good. My 72tpi snowshoe also show self steer in low pressure. I'm probably around 12 psi given I'm 270lbs ready to roll.
    We did 8 miles on the beach this afternoon with my 7 yr old. Bike was great.
    I found a few of those clips In the bottom of the box. Too funny on the damaged O. They seem like watershed decals so I don't know why they are like that. I can't imagine they are hand painted and then damaged during drying.
    H

  23. #123
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    Chupa, what cranks do you have? Are they the ride cranks with a 30t on the 104bcd. The pic looks like a cinch direct mount chain ring?
    H

  24. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shelterock View Post
    Chupa,
    You can't post that you updated everything about except the frame and fork. Tell us about the tires BFL on front. Can't make out the rear. Don't leave us hanging. This is a different frame than the alu night train/ Sturgis. How and what did you fit? What tube/tubeless, rims trips and other skeletons did you find tearing the bike down?
    H
    BFL front, Knard rear, both 120 TPI. This is the Ti Sturgis frame. There is more clearance on the frame for the Knard than there was on my Fatboy. I used duct tape backed by strapping tape as a rim strip and Sun Ringle tubeless tape. It was really easy to set up tubeless. No surprises during my build.
    Last edited by Chupathingee; 12-04-2015 at 03:26 PM.

  25. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shelterock View Post
    Chupa, what cranks do you have? Are they the ride cranks with a 30t on the 104bcd. The pic looks like a cinch direct mount chain ring?
    H
    The crank is a Turbine Cinch that I pulled off my old bike, I had to replace the bottom bracket with a Race Face Cinch BB to get it to work. The chainring is an Absolute Black oval 30t direct mount chainring.

  26. #126
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    Looks like I will be going tubeless sooner rather than later. My short ride weekend before last has left me with multiple tube punctures. Time to start researching and mixing goo (all the other parts are being provided by the nice man in the brown truck).
    ---
    brown truck is taking too long. During the goo research, saw a few people switching from presta back to schrader with a 949 valve stem. Goverment men (usps rather than ups) should be delivering those by this weekend (I hope). My coupon for Hobby Lobby is in my passenger seat (to get the latex mold builder), so all that is left is stopping at the grocery store (cornmeal) and tractor supply (PG or RV Antifreeze, and non-detergent ammonia).
    Last edited by mousehunter; 10-14-2015 at 12:21 PM.

  27. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chupathingee View Post
    The crank is a Turbine Cinch that I pulled off my old bike, I had to replace the bottom bracket with a Race Face Cinch BB to get it to work. The chainring is an Absolute Black oval 30t direct mount chainring.
    Thanks Chupa. If I had the budget I'd go that route too. The money went into my kids bikes.
    Knard 4.8 seem to be getting good feedback. Oval 30t direct fit looks great. Nice set up!
    How does the sturgis compare to the FatBoy? I was on the fence between these 2 as both had 650-651mm top tube effective lengths. Sturgis I felt was a better value compared to the FatBoy Trail.
    H

  28. #128
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    Hi Shelterock
    Have you seen this comparison video?
    Specialized Fatboy frame vs Sturgis/Nightrain frame

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w-EimEERgJg

  29. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shelterock View Post
    Thanks Chupa. If I had the budget I'd go that route too. The money went into my kids bikes.
    Knard 4.8 seem to be getting good feedback. Oval 30t direct fit looks great. Nice set up!
    How does the sturgis compare to the FatBoy? I was on the fence between these 2 as both had 650-651mm top tube effective lengths. Sturgis I felt was a better value compared to the FatBoy Trail.
    H
    I honestly haven't had the time to get out on the Sturgis Ti much, so I can't really compare how it rides compared to the Fatboy. According to geo wheelbase is 1/2" longer and headtube and seatpost angle are both 1 degree slacker on the Motobecane, so they shouldn't be TOO different. BB height appears to be the biggest difference, and since the seattubes are the same length that should mean the Fatboy has more standover clearance (lower BB height) but the Sturgis claims to have a lower standover... Anyway, I did really love my Fatboy (I upgraded from a Moonlander, so much bigger geometry change), but I had few complaints about it:

    *The spec had a cheap crankset (which I had replaced at the dealer) and cheap hubs (my rear freehub had to be replaced, many people have issues with the bearings).
    *The 135mm spaced QR carbon fork means to add a Bluto you need a new front hub, and unless you get a convertible hub or a second front wheel that means you then can't use the carbon fork...
    *With the frame my only complaints are that the fatter 5" tires (Knard and Lou) can rub the chainstays and QR axles on a fatbike, especially a 190mm rear end seem like a bad idea.

    My primary motivator to buy the Sturgis Ti was that my projected cost for buying the Sturgis Ti, swapping parts, and selling the Fatboy put me way ahead of buying a new hub and Bluto for the Fatboy. Added bonuses were Ti frame, thru axles, and better wheels. My complete weights with some napkin math determine that the Ti frame is either the same weight as or heavier than the Alu Fatboy frame. The fatboy with these components weighed 28.5 lbs, the Sturgis Ti when adjusted for bluto (1497g-660g=1136g) comes out to 29 lb. Therefore the Fatboy frame and wheels weighs .5 lb less than the Sturgis Ti frame and wheels. I know this is not at all scientific, but I think my methodology is fairly solid. It would be nice if someone would weigh just the frame and bare wheels (I forgot to when I was building and am too lazy now to tear it down just to weigh the components).

    I want to get out to some singletrack this week and I'll report my experiences here when I do so.

  30. #130
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    I was out over Lunch on 4.36 miles of single track and beach front riding with my dog. Great ride, other that getting attacked by a german shepherd. My Aussie did great. He was fierce!.

    I bought the Sturgis with final intentions to keep it if I fit. At 6'7" it was close. All parts would transfer to the 23" El Gordo. I never expected Ti frames to be lighter per say or stronger, just another material with a different feel. I came off CroMo and the Ti feels very similar. I'm enjoying the feel. The Ritchey Seatpost seems to bear the brunt of my weight. I believe the tires Snowshoe 72tpi have a great impact on handling that overshadow any feel you get from the frame. I've hear others talk happily of a Knard 4.8 in rear and bud up front.

    I hear you on the Fatboy conversion. I did the math there too but I was looking at the Trail for $2450 and this bike seems a better bet with 150-197 Thru-axles etc going forward. Love the White Bluto!

    Joe, I watched that video before.

    I bought Titanium because I'm on the ocean and bay for almost all my rides. Alu oxidizes and Steel rusts. Ti I hope holds up. I know bearings and BB are all going to get shredded with sand and salt water, which I try to avoid, but I'm ok with that because that means I'm getting out and riding.
    So far I've been out every single day since I got the bike 2 fridays ago, 11 days straight. 70F here today and sunny! I'm loving it.

  31. #131
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    My 19 ti nightrain weights 35.2 lbs. So U would think that the sturgis with the heavier tires and conponets would weight slightly more. I wish I would have know how heavy this bike was going to be before I had ordered, but I will live with it. Going to change the tires out to some lightweight 3.8s and maybe go with a carbon handlebar and steam. Can't put to much into it, otherwise I should have bought a carbon alaskan or $$$beargrease. I love the way the bike looks and the 100mm bluto. I am 6' and the 19 fits well, if I was touring I would want a slightly larger frame. Overall a good value, if it was 3-5lbs lighter it would be a killer deal. Consider either a cheaper groupset or a higher end carbon bike. By this if budget and component group is the primary reason. Save $500 and go with the AL version.

  32. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by Atlcorsa View Post
    My 19 ti nightrain weights 35.2 lbs. So U would think that the sturgis with the heavier tires and conponets would weight slightly more. I wish I would have know how heavy this bike was going to be before I had ordered, but I will live with it. Going to change the tires out to some lightweight 3.8s and maybe go with a carbon handlebar and steam. Can't put to much into it, otherwise I should have bought a carbon alaskan or $$$beargrease. I love the way the bike looks and the 100mm bluto. I am 6' and the 19 fits well, if I was touring I would want a slightly larger frame. Overall a good value, if it was 3-5lbs lighter it would be a killer deal. Consider either a cheaper groupset or a higher end carbon bike. By this if budget and component group is the primary reason. Save $500 and go with the AL version.
    I don't think the framed carbon is much lighter out of the box.
    I read a review that said it was ~27.25 pounds. That was the $3k version after adding aftermarket carbon handlebars and rims.
    I've got my NTB sitting at about 27.5 lbs right now with under $3k in its entirety.

  33. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shelterock View Post
    I was out over Lunch on 4.36 miles of single track and beach front riding with my dog. Great ride, other that getting attacked by a german shepherd. My Aussie did great. He was fierce!.

    I bought the Sturgis with final intentions to keep it if I fit. At 6'7" it was close. All parts would transfer to the 23" El Gordo. I never expected Ti frames to be lighter per say or stronger, just another material with a different feel. I came off CroMo and the Ti feels very similar. I'm enjoying the feel. The Ritchey Seatpost seems to bear the brunt of my weight. I believe the tires Snowshoe 72tpi have a great impact on handling that overshadow any feel you get from the frame. I've hear others talk happily of a Knard 4.8 in rear and bud up front.

    I hear you on the Fatboy conversion. I did the math there too but I was looking at the Trail for $2450 and this bike seems a better bet with 150-197 Thru-axles etc going forward. Love the White Bluto!

    Joe, I watched that video before.

    I bought Titanium because I'm on the ocean and bay for almost all my rides. Alu oxidizes and Steel rusts. Ti I hope holds up. I know bearings and BB are all going to get shredded with sand and salt water, which I try to avoid, but I'm ok with that because that means I'm getting out and riding.
    So far I've been out every single day since I got the bike 2 fridays ago, 11 days straight. 70F here today and sunny! I'm loving it.
    Sounds beautiful, we're in that time of year when it fluctuates from 40s to 80s... Yeah the ability of Ti to withstand the elements was a plus for me, I ride my bike year round in Iowa which means it sees a lot of moisture from snow in the winter. I do like the ride quality of steel so should like the Ti. In the years I've been fatbiking I've come to accept that I am just going to replace the BB after every winter riding season...

  34. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by Atlcorsa View Post
    My 19 ti nightrain weights 35.2 lbs. So U would think that the sturgis with the heavier tires and conponets would weight slightly more. I wish I would have know how heavy this bike was going to be before I had ordered, but I will live with it. Going to change the tires out to some lightweight 3.8s and maybe go with a carbon handlebar and steam. Can't put to much into it, otherwise I should have bought a carbon alaskan or $$$beargrease. I love the way the bike looks and the 100mm bluto. I am 6' and the 19 fits well, if I was touring I would want a slightly larger frame. Overall a good value, if it was 3-5lbs lighter it would be a killer deal. Consider either a cheaper groupset or a higher end carbon bike. By this if budget and component group is the primary reason. Save $500 and go with the AL version.
    By my math when I put my winter fork on (Framed Alaskan Carbon) my bike should weigh 29 lbs, but the winter tires (studded Bud and Lou) will likely bump that up. My current tires are the lightweight models of Knard and BFL, but they are still heavier than 4.5/4.6 tires, and definitely 3.8/4" tires. If i were really concerned about weight I wouldn't be riding a 5 inch bike :-D

  35. #135
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    Sturgis on the beach

    Wallpaper Wednesday ? Fat-biking With Spock at Old Town Beach | FAT-BIKE.COM
    Spock and I in our 15 seconds of fame. Sturgis Ti also gets recognized.
    Cheers,
    H
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  36. #136
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    Not Tooting the bike, I see the new Seven Cycle Treeline Ti for considerably more money and I fell very good about what we got in this bike. I've ridden every day since getting the bike, usually the 3.5 mile dog walk I do daily with other outings on top of it. Tubeless might be next. I am pleased!
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  37. #137
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    I am seriously contemplating getting the Ti Sturgis Bullet- BD shows Available Now... how long did everyone wait from when they clicked the order button to bike box on doorstep?

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    I ordered Monday, shipped Monday night, was in NY Friday by 5pm. They move product. The fastest that bike will ever travel! Go for it. It's good. The Ti frame was an extra because I live on the beach. If I was in the woods I would have gone night train. No part of the Sturgis trim level has been an issue for me. I'm glad I got the White Bluto!
    H

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    cool- that is fast... Did it come with a fork pump for the Bluto?

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    No pedals no pump.

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    Some red rim strips, reflectors for wheels and front rear reflector, extra rear dérailleur bracket too

  42. #142
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    Does the motobecane down tube come off? The block font is lame. Also what is making them heavy? Heavy tires and tubes mostly? Obviously the bluto adds weight too.

  43. #143
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    I have had several Ti bikes in the past, the appeal to me has always been the ride of Titanium. They look really nice when built right with nice tidy welds and again that ride is what it is all about: lively as with a nice steel frame but with the corrosion properties of titanium. The perfect material for a hardtail, especially one that will see its share of winter elements as well as summer.

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    I think the tires tubes and rim strips are all lower level. The red strips that were extra are heavy and 72tpi snowshoe is probably way heavy. The Ritchey cockpit is average and the crank is close to a kilo. The gains can be made in tubeless and 1x setup, light weight saddle, seat post, stem and bars.
    For me the Ti choice was corrosion resistance due to the salt environment I ride in. I know the BB and drive train will get shredded but hey, that will give me an excuse in a couple years time to swap out some parts.
    The decals will surely come off with some work.
    I really like the bike.
    H

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    I need some guidance with frame sizing of the Ti Sturgis Bullet as I'm right between a small and medium according to the sizing chart. I'd like to hear from others who are on the edge of sizing what they picked, the smaller size or larger size, and are they happy with their selection?

    I'm 5'8 1/2" tall with an inseam of 31.75" (measured bare footed with a book in the crotch against a wall).
    I'm just getting back into mountain biking after 20 years. I recently on went on a group ride using my 20 year old 26" bike and I just couldn't keep up, everyone else was on 29er or fat bikes and I was getting slowed down in rock gardens which they all were riding through fast.
    I also want to get a fat bike to extend my riding season, I live in New England so I'd sometimes be riding in snow and sloppy conditions. This would be my only mountain bike besides the crappy 20 year old 26".
    I currently ride about 4500 road miles per year,for reference all of my road and cross bikes are 54cm.

  46. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shelterock View Post
    I think the tires tubes and rim strips are all lower level. The red strips that were extra are heavy and 72tpi snowshoe is probably way heavy. The Ritchey cockpit is average and the crank is close to a kilo. The gains can be made in tubeless and 1x setup, light weight saddle, seat post, stem and bars.
    For me the Ti choice was corrosion resistance due to the salt environment I ride in. I know the BB and drive train will get shredded but hey, that will give me an excuse in a couple years time to swap out some parts.
    The decals will surely come off with some work.
    I really like the bike.
    H
    Thank you. Exactly the info I am looking for.

  47. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by Northeasterner View Post
    I need some guidance with frame sizing of the Ti Sturgis Bullet as I'm right between a small and medium according to the sizing chart. I'd like to hear from others who are on the edge of sizing what they picked, the smaller size or larger size, and are they happy with their selection?

    I'm 5'8 1/2" tall with an inseam of 31.75" (measured bare footed with a book in the crotch against a wall).
    I'm just getting back into mountain biking after 20 years. I recently on went on a group ride using my 20 year old 26" bike and I just couldn't keep up, everyone else was on 29er or fat bikes and I was getting slowed down in rock gardens which they all were riding through fast.
    I also want to get a fat bike to extend my riding season, I live in New England so I'd sometimes be riding in snow and sloppy conditions. This would be my only mountain bike besides the crappy 20 year old 26".
    I currently ride about 4500 road miles per year,for reference all of my road and cross bikes are 54cm.
    I am 5'11" and 32.5" inseam, measured barefoot. I am right on the line between med and large. I was obsessing about having ordered the wrong size, but the medium turned out perfect for Ti-Bullet.

    Note: For the Boris X9, their chart said to get the medium, but I should have gotten large. I had to up-size the stem and longer seatpost with more setback.

    Riding technical stuff fast takes a lot of practice, and a good ergonomic bike setup that works for _you_. It took me 2, 3 years after getting on a 29er to feel confident in technical terrain, and I was feeling good on my 26er before that. Riding with flats occasionally gave me a boost in taking risks and increasing ability. Don't worry, you can learn this - but 26er, 29er, and fatbikes have underlying different geometries. And note that the Ti Motobecane fatbikes have a long-ish chain stay of 460mm with a low-ish seatpost angle of 72.5, and of course the huge Q-factor on the cranks. These are not the best for technical riding 0-).

    My reason for buying this bike was quite different from yours: backcountry snowbiking, and I think it will work out well in that regard. I wouldn't want this to be my only bike, just due to the huge Q-factor alone.

    Cheers!

  48. #148
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    Is the q factor more than other fatbikes that can fit a big tire?

  49. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shelterock View Post
    I think the tires tubes and rim strips are all lower level. The red strips that were extra are heavy and 72tpi snowshoe is probably way heavy. The Ritchey cockpit is average and the crank is close to a kilo. The gains can be made in tubeless and 1x setup, light weight saddle, seat post, stem and bars.
    For me the Ti choice was corrosion resistance due to the salt environment I ride in. I know the BB and drive train will get shredded but hey, that will give me an excuse in a couple years time to swap out some parts.
    The decals will surely come off with some work.
    I really like the bike.
    H
    I haven't setup the rims tubeless, yet, but the bead was seated very well and I would not have any hesitation to use the rims without tubes (except for the weird holes - what's up those?). I don't know what those heavy red strips are for. SunRingle sells a light-weight strip to cover the holes, along with the correct tubeless tape to go over this strip. Each inner tube on the Ti-Bullet is 650 g.

    The 127 tpi Snowshoe 4.5 on the Ti-Bullet is only 1350 g. It does have very low rebound rubber and thick sidewalls -> high rolling resistance. But, it's also very sticky. Combine all that and this should be a great tire for rock gardens and wet roots.

  50. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gonzo 1971 View Post
    Is the q factor more than other fatbikes that can fit a big tire?
    Well, it's 9" +/- 0.1" on the Ti_bullet's RF Turbine crankset. RF just updated their chainline/Q-factor/crank chart, and it doesn't list a "RF Turbine" model anymore. Anyhow, the best you're going to be able to do with a 190/197 rear end, is to get the Turbine Next SL, flip the single ring and thereby drop 2 cm:
    http://www.raceface.com/comp/inst/Cr...chainlines.pdf

    If you're new to this, then I recommend this intro to chainlines, Q-factor and such:
    Salsa Cycles

  51. #151
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    Thanks. Yes, I am new to fat bikes. I am getting ready to pull the trigger on something soon. Thanks for the info.

  52. #152
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    So it is no fatter than say a fatboy in the crank?

  53. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gonzo 1971 View Post
    So it is no fatter than say a fatboy in the crank?
    I think the fatboy also uses an RF crank, now. But, I don't know which one - probably depends on the model you're getting. Try'em out, and know that 1x and 2x will allow for different Q-factors, but it depends on the crank / chainring setup that is actually installed.

    I didn't try out any fatbikes in stores, just read a lot and didn't see too many unhappy fatbikers.

  54. #154
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    Did you see the fatboy / Motobecane NightTrain/Sturgis comparison frame video?

  55. #155
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    I just did. Pretty interesting.

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    I'm looking at the Motobecane Titanium NightTrain Bullet fatbike in large. Can anyone tell me what this bike weights complete as shown here:

    Save up to 60% off new Titanium Rockshox Bluto Equipped Fat Bikes and Mountain Bikes - MTB - Motobecane Titanium Sturgis Bullet 2x10 SRAM

    I'd appreciate any information!

  57. #157
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimmcd View Post
    I'm looking at the Motobecane Titanium NightTrain Bullet fatbike in large. Can anyone tell me what this bike weights complete as shown here:

    Save up to 60% off new Titanium Rockshox Bluto Equipped Fat Bikes and Mountain Bikes - MTB - Motobecane Titanium Sturgis Bullet 2x10 SRAM

    I'd appreciate any information!
    chupathingee reported his Sturgis Bullet Ti Size large "weighs 35 lb 6 oz stock with pedals (34 lb 10 oz without pedals)"

    Since the NightTrain comes with a few upgrades, it should be slightly lighter than that.
    Remember, when you convert the Mulefut rims to tubeless you will lose around another 3 lbs of tubes. (add a little bit back for the kit and sealant)

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    I will be tackling tubesless in the next few days. Waiting on only the tape now. I'll weigh it up and see what it's worth. I have an XL Sturgis Ti.
    H
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  59. #159
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shelterock View Post
    I will be tackling tubesless in the next few days. Waiting on only the tape now. I'll weigh it up and see what it's worth. I have an XL Sturgis Ti.
    H
    Mine came in @ 34 lbs, crank bors mallet pedals and gorilla tape tubeless. Other than that its still stock.

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    I think the TI and AL frames are of a similar weight. My AL is down to about 27# heavily modded. FYI

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    Just did tubeless on front. Very easy with sunringle tape and wheel strip. We'll see in the morning f its holding air.
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    I built up a ti Sturgis Bullet (size Small.. 15.5") last night. Totally stock, plus eggbeater pedals and a stainless steel King cage weighed in at 35.1 lbs.

    For anyone wondering, the quality of the frame is just like everyone is saying.. excellent. The total package is an amazing deal. My only gripe is that the frame triangle is so small for my size that I can't fit a 24 oz water bottle in the cage. I'll have to hunt down some small bottles.

    Now if I can find some time to swap out the rim strips and go tubeless, I could drop a couple pounds off this piggie!

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    I did 6.6 miles with my kids this weekend with Tubeless in the front wheel only. Bike handled great with less self steer at 5-6psi and almost none at 10psi and above on the snowshow 4.5". I hope to get the rear tubeless on Thursday. Not knowing much if anything about Fat Bikes and especially Tubeless, even after reading about it, I am really glad my Sturgis came with the Mulefut rims. Having seen and felt the Boris X5 with Weinnmans 80mm they are a huge value to the bike and the Alu Sturgis/Night Train are an exceptional value with Bluto and Mulefut spec.
    I like the Ti frame. Its welded up very well and looks great, rides great, and is $500 more than the similarly equipped Alu Strugis. I went Ti because of the salt environment but I think it's the the most expensive part of the package and a luxury.
    Ti or no Ti I think the value lies in the wheels, Bluto and general performance of the bike. I'm very happy with my choice.
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  64. #164
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    I went tubeless in the back tire last night and did 4.5 miles on the beach this morning. Works amazingly well. The conversion is so easy with the mulefut tape and rimstrip.
    I highly recommend it to anyone, best $60 on strips, tape, vales and sealant.
    H
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    I'll probably be doing that this weekend. Did you use a compressor to inflate the tires or just a pump?
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  66. #166
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    Question, how come these Ti bikes are so heavy? I thought Ti was lighter than Aluminum. I guess I was expecting these bikes to come in right around 30lbs, rather than 35+. The components are pretty good.
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  67. #167
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeFriday View Post
    I'll probably be doing that this weekend. Did you use a compressor to inflate the tires or just a pump?
    I used a floor pump with valve core removed.

    When you mount up the rim strip, make sure it's centered properly. I used an alcohol swab to clean the rim bead and rim strip then started my tape job opposite the valve opening and went once around with a 4-5inch overlap.

    Then with fingers, sqwish down the tape on the bead and where ever possible on the rimstrip. Air does get trapped in the tape job on top of the rimstrip. It doesn't seem to want to escape through the rimstrip so that nylon strip seems well made.

    The process of putting the tape on involves sitting on a chair with both feet holding the rim while tensioning the tape as it is applied. This allows you to center the tape and make sure there are no wrinkles on the bead seat.

    With the tire remounted, I made sure that at least one side of the bead was as close to seated by hand, from the inside as possible, and then tugged the other bead out as tight as possible. 20PSI set the bead, 3-4 pops to make sure it was set everywhere evenly.
    Deflate, add Stan's 4-5 oz and reinflate, shake, spin, do a dance, remount on bike and rode around.

    The hardest part is getting the tire off and the rimstrip on. Both are pretty tight.
    I figure 3 lbs saved. maybe a 33lbs bike now.
    The ride was significantly improved. SMoother and more compliant with the ground, lighter and easier to accelerate.
    H
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  68. #168
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    Quote Originally Posted by tyriverag View Post
    Question, how come these Ti bikes are so heavy? I thought Ti was lighter than Aluminum. I guess I was expecting these bikes to come in right around 30lbs, rather than 35+. The components are pretty good.
    Ti is not neccessarily lighter than alu. It's all on the construction. $500 more for Ti and similar weight. I look at it for corrosion prevention as I ride in salt water and on the beach. The ride compliance is quite different where Alu doesn't flex as much. Ti feels like a chromoly frame, but won't rust.

    Most Ti bikes are setup 1X and due to cost of the frame they usually are spec'd high end. I think the 30lbs thinking is a function of that, usually $3500-$5000 bikes.
    Ora Engineering makes the frame. The Ritchey cockpit is entry level, so is the seat. The Ride crank on the Sturgis is entry level and X7 stuff too. The Bluto contributes some weight.
    For $2000 you get an amazing bike. I didn't realize until I went Tubeless, how much of a difference that makes. Seeing the left over Sturgis and Night Trains with Weinmann 80 rims, I definietly don't think they are a value. Mulefut makes a big improvement in the bike.
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    I bought a Ti bike for the same reasons Shelterock gives.. rides like chromoly but is darn near indestructible and impervious to rust.

    The tubes on this bike are pretty large in diameter compared to a lot of Ti builders. I was a little surprised to see that, altho it is fairly obvious in photos. I think that is why the weight is similar to Alu frames.

    Mostly the added weight is in the crank and Bluto. If you had an Alu frame with the same exact build, you'd see no difference in weight.

    But, I figure if you went tubeless you'd drop about 3 lbs immediately. And weight weenies could hunt down some lightweight tires and drop 1-2 lbs for a pair. And a lightweight crank like the Next cinch system could lose a pound. That would bring it under 30lbs. Not bad at all for a fat bike with a Bluto!

    But, as Shelterock mentioned, you'll see the most difference when you lose rotating weight. Lightweight hubs won't be that noticable, but losing the tubes and going to lighter tires will make the wheels accelerate much quicker and be easier on climbs.
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  70. #170
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    OK yeah, good point, I forgot about the Bluto. I love the Mulefuts.
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  71. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by tyriverag View Post
    Question, how come these Ti bikes are so heavy? I thought Ti was lighter than Aluminum. .
    Remember that class called "Science" you took in school?
    If you did....you'd know that titanium is heavier than aluminum.

  72. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    Remember that class called "Science" you took in school?
    If you did....you'd know that titanium is heavier than aluminum.
    Feathers are heavier than either... Although much less dense.

  73. #173
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    got mine out for a few rides this weekend. It handles beautifully, and the extra weight really isn't all that noticeable once you're rolling.

    Motobecanes Titanium FatBike final specs and release date.-fattiesmall.jpg
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  74. #174
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    Looks good. Go tubeless yet? Gets better.
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    Thanks! I have to adjust to the Q factor, but I don't notice that much when I get into anything remotely technical. Otherwise it's a pleasure to ride.

    I tried to go tubeless in front after the ride but couldn't get the tire off. It's like the tire is hermetically sealed or something. I was reading the Mulefut Tubeless thread this afternoon to get ideas. Guess I just need to keep working on it to loosen it up. Maybe it would be easier after I get some miles on the tires and they break in.
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  76. #176
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    I had to stand on the tire to get it off the bead and then some tire iron wrangling to get it off the rim. It's tight and the hardest part of converting. Oh, have fun with the rim strip too.

  77. #177
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    I crossed over 1000 miles on my Ti NT Bullet last night. No modifications yet, however going tubeless will be my first change. The wheel weight is noticeable on steep climbs but not so much on trails with rollers.

    The frame is truly amazing. It has been put through the ringer and overall I am impressed. The welds get the most positive comments.

    Oddly, I have snapped the derailleur hanger. Took a weird fall and the hanger took a direct hit. Thankfully I packed the spare so it wasn't a long walk home. Replacements are pending from BD.

    +1 for standing on the side of the tire to break the bead. Unless you've ridden the tire for a while and the temp is up, the tire will be a hassle to remove.

  78. #178
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    SpartanBrewer, 1000 miles since delivery in late September. Good going! How are the Snowshoes wearing? What tires are you running?
    I realized after the tubeless conversion, I would not want to deal with a flat tube in this rim on a 20f day on the side of the trail.
    JoeFriday, you have a picture of the rack installed to share?
    H
    2016 Motobecane Sturgis Bullet Ti
    2015 Specialized FatBoy 24"
    2016 Motobecane Boris X5
    1988 Peugeot Orient Express

  79. #179
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    Quote Originally Posted by carbonguy View Post
    Answering my own question now, maybe it will help someone. My bike seems to fit fine, only rode it for ~10 second in the driveway last night, but the 17.5" frame seemed to fit alright for my 5'11" height.
    I just returned a fat boy this weekend. I ordered a medium. It felt small. I am the same measurements as you. Do you have a huge amount of seat post sticking out? Could you measure the amount of seat post you have exposed, please? Pics would also help a great deal.....Thanks in advance.
    Quote Originally Posted by OhioPT View Post
    Thank you very much!

    EDIT: wheelbase looks to be much longer than listed on the published geometry chart

    Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk

  80. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by JPaul View Post
    <long post apology goes here>

    Hi Guys,

    It's been great reading about everyone's experiences anticipating and/or getting their Ti Moto fatbikes, so I thought I'd chime in with mine.

    My 19" Night Train arrived on Tuesday, and Garmin tells me I've spent 36 miles and about 5,300' with it since then.

    This bike is *smooth*.

    Aside from adjusting to the monster Q-factor, have had no problem getting comfortable on the bike and it rides/pedals very well. Handling isn't quick, but is very stable in turns and switchbacks, and it keeps its line well on climbs. I'm a Jr. Clyde with a fairly high cadence, and haven't noticed any frame flex yet (even on steeper pitches/higher efforts).

    I'm mainly a XC rider so I set the bike up to mimic my XC bike. Then I just started riding the steep kitty litter and moon dust covered trails and fire roads in the SF Bay Area, and this bike has performed flawlessly. Need to play more with the Bluto, but it is taking the edge off of the concrete-like ruts I need to deal with out here.

    Still in my New Bike daze, but I'm very pleased with this bike after spending a few hours with it. Looking forward to many more.

    Cheers,
    Paul


    A few notes:
    - The frame is beautiful. Welds and finish look very nice.
    - Bike arrived with blemish on the same "O" as shelterock pictures in post #97. Will be giving BikesDirect that feedback as this must be happening prior to shipment to be so consistent.
    - My bike came with X-9 shifters. Spec sheet was (and still is) X-7 when I bought it. I'm very happy to get this upgrade. Everything else is per the specs.
    - Bike arrived with a spare derailleur hanger. Little things...
    - No surprises during assembly (just the joy of carefully extracting this behemoth from its box!).
    - Did need to put on some zip ties for hoses/cables where a couple clips were missing and a couple more looked ready to pop off. Recommend having some on hand when assembling just in case.
    - Shifting and Braking did not need any adjustment out of the box. I *didn't* expect this, and was prepared to align/adjust derailleurs and brakes as part of setting up the new bike. This is actually my 3rd Motobecane and they have been 3 for 3 in terms of shifting and braking just working right out of the box for me. This includes no need for bleeding 2x Avid hydro brakesets and 1 Shimano.
    - Snowshoes with tubes had some self-steer for me at 8psi and below. 10 psi it is for now. Probably sitting around 210 lbs all geared/watered up.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    How tall are you please? Congrats and hope the bike still makes you

    Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk

  81. #181
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    Quote Originally Posted by tankhead10 View Post
    How tall are you please? Congrats and hope the bike still makes you

    Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk
    Hi Tankhead,

    I'm 6' tall, with ~32" inseam. The 19" was the right choice for me.

    And I remain very happy with the bike! -> spending several hours a week on it on the local trails, and haven't had any problems yet.

    Cheers,
    Paul

  82. #182
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shelterock View Post
    JoeFriday, you have a picture of the rack installed to share?
    H
    Here's what I came up with after a trip to a few bike shops. It's a Bontrager BackRack Deluxe.

    Motobecanes Titanium FatBike final specs and release date.-racks.jpg

    I realize after looking at my photos that it could sit a little lower. But that could be accomplished by drilling bolt holes in the lower mounting bracket locations. You could drop it maybe an inch that way.

    Motobecanes Titanium FatBike final specs and release date.-rack3s.jpg

    The top tucks in under my saddle, and I doubt I could avoid that due to my frame geometry. That limits the usability of the rack, but I never planned to put anything on top. Most of the other racks I considered were ridiculously tall resulting in hitting the saddle and wouldn't fit at all. As it is, it easily clears the disc brake and mounts up in just a minute or two.

    Motobecanes Titanium FatBike final specs and release date.-rack4s.jpg

    As you can see, there's plenty of clearance for a fender, and that's a 4.5" Snowshoe. No worries if you want to go wider.

    Motobecanes Titanium FatBike final specs and release date.-rack1s.jpg

    The rack is aluminum, so long-term durability might be a concern. But it seems pretty solid and mounts very firmly. I had to spread the lower mounting brackets about an inch apart, which was very easy to do by hand. And the upper seatstay mounting extenders needed a little light bending, and aren't actually mounted to the rack in the recommended location (the front crossbar that is slightly lower than the others). But it's fine for me and is very solid.

    Motobecanes Titanium FatBike final specs and release date.-rack2s.jpg

    I haven't had a chance to test it for heel clearance yet, so it might not be the final solution. But for $45 I didn't mind taking a chance.

    So this was the best solution I found so far. But if I feel this one doesn't work out, I might look at the Salsa Alternator Rack 190. But those cost $120... almost triple! Plus, I prefer my rack to be silver. It seems to play very well with my Ortliebs, but we'll see once I get it rolling.

    Motobecanes Titanium FatBike final specs and release date.-rack5s.jpgMotobecanes Titanium FatBike final specs and release date.-rack6s.jpg
    Motobecane Sturgis Bullet TI
    Breezer JetStream
    Serotta Concours TI

  83. #183
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    I haven't posted in a while so I thought I would throw a quick update out here.

    I've been very happy with the bike. As others have mentioned the wheels are nice, and frame is excellent. This is my first fatbike with a shock and I'm loving it out on singletrack.

    Here's a photo of my summer setup. My only gripe is the front triangle is a bit smaller than other large framed bikes, and I had a hard time fitting my shorty water bottles in the cages.

    Motobecanes Titanium FatBike final specs and release date.-3a8scujh.jpg

    For those asking sizing questions, I'm 6'0" with a 33.5" inseam and I think the large fits me perfectly. IIRC the Niner RDO seatpost goes up to 9 from the minimum insertion point for measurement marks and I have mine around 7.

  84. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shelterock View Post
    I had to stand on the tire to get it off the bead and then some tire iron wrangling to get it off the rim. It's tight and the hardest part of converting. Oh, have fun with the rim strip too.
    Agreed, getting the stock tires off the rims was tough. VERY tight seat. I had to stand on the tire as well (make sure you support the rim and don't put a lot of pressure sideways on the axle, it could damage the cartridge bearings from what I've been told).

    I used the Sun Ringle tubeless tape for my conversion, it's been a month and no leaks (I'm even running non tubeless ready tires).

  85. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chupathingee View Post
    My only gripe is the front triangle is a bit smaller than other large framed bikes, and I had a hard time fitting my shorty water bottles in the cages.
    Since I have the smallest frame, I had to resort to using a side entry cage, and got some 12oz water bottles. There was no way I could use a regular cage with any bottle. It seems pretty obvious from that and the size of the tubing that the frame manufacturers simply changed the geometry with no other regard for fit.

    I still think it's a great bike, but to do it right they should change the cage locations and go to size-specific tubing. I really don't need tubing that thick to haul around my 135 lbs body compared to clydesdales. Thinner tubing would probably shave a half pound off the frame and make it a little more compliant.
    Motobecane Sturgis Bullet TI
    Breezer JetStream
    Serotta Concours TI

  86. #186
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    Thanks for the responses. I always use a camelback when I ride to that makes little difference to me. I am ordering large now. Thanks again.

  87. #187
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    Ordered. Thanks for all the information. I have a great feeling about this......

    Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk

  88. #188
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    Stock Snowshoes are showing signs of wear due to the volume of miles on asphalt trails. They probably were not designed for this type of riding but my goal was to get to 1k as fast as I could .....build fitness/drop some weight.

    No cut marks at all which is a little amazing. These are the 120tpi tires.

    I'm chasing a buzzing that seems to be from a cable housing. Really my only complaint.

  89. #189
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    Btw what size stem comes standard with the bike? I did not see an option? 90mm?

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  90. #190
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    Depends on the frame size. I believe it goes...

    Small - 70mm
    Medium/Large - 80mm
    XLarge - 90mm
    Motobecane Sturgis Bullet TI
    Breezer JetStream
    Serotta Concours TI

  91. #191
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    Quote Originally Posted by tankhead10 View Post
    Btw what size stem comes standard with the bike? I did not see an option? 90mm?
    My 19" frame came with 80mm stem.

    And -> congrats on pulling the trigger! I hope the new bike works out well for you. Time to change your holiday plans next week...

    Paul

  92. #192
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    It's been a.bout ten years got the annual thanksgiving ride....New tradition.. Thanks and happy thanksgiving Paul
    Chris

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  93. #193
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    Ok, no big. I can source out depending on need. Just wondering.......Thanks

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  94. #194
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    Quote Originally Posted by tankhead10 View Post
    It's been a.bout ten years got the annual thanksgiving ride....New tradition.. Thanks and happy thanksgiving Paul
    Chris

    Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk
    It's been about ten years since I've attended the annual thanksgiving ride......

    Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk

  95. #195
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    Quote Originally Posted by tankhead10 View Post
    I just returned a fat boy this weekend. I ordered a medium. It felt small. I am the same measurements as you. Do you have a huge amount of seat post sticking out? Could you measure the amount of seat post you have exposed, please? Pics would also help a great deal.....Thanks in advance.

    Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk
    Had my seatpost at 7/10 while wearing Neos overshoes. Pretty happy with the fit. Put the bigger spacer under the stem (thin washer is on top, now), and moved seat forward by 1/4".

    Pictures:
    Motobecanes Titanium FatBike final specs and release date.-20151115_122144.jpgMotobecanes Titanium FatBike final specs and release date.-20151115_154826.jpg
    Last edited by carbonguy; 11-18-2015 at 09:31 PM.

  96. #196
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    very nice, carbonguy! How do you like those Dillingers?
    Motobecane Sturgis Bullet TI
    Breezer JetStream
    Serotta Concours TI

  97. #197
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    Quote Originally Posted by JPaul View Post
    My 19" frame came with 80mm stem.

    Paul
    How tall are you? I'm 6'0" and have waffled endlessly about 17.5" vs 19" frame. I lean toward "flickable" but I already have a 17" Boris X9 FS and its geometry is ~7mm bigger than the NTB. When I first got the Boris I complained it was a little too small but even with a 60mm stem on it I've positioned the cockpit into something I'm pretty happy with. Not sure I'd still be happy with -1cm.

  98. #198
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    Quote Originally Posted by thomcom View Post
    How tall are you? I'm 6'0" and have waffled endlessly about 17.5" vs 19" frame.
    Hi thomcom,

    I'm 6' as well, with ~32" inseam (possibly slightly shorter inseam).

    My 19" frame bike is set up with 9" of seatpost exposed (from top of seat tube to bottom of seat clamp). Have been able to adjust seat so reach is fine with the 80mm stock stem.

    You can see my bike in post 119, but note that I am more of an XC/long climb rider -> don't have any flickability perspective.

    FWIW, I think the 17.5" frame would be too small for me with:
    - almost 40mm more seat tube exposed
    - almost an inch less top tube length
    - same length chainstay (460mm) and head tube angle (69.5) -> no difference in on-paper performance to those that put a premium on these numbers

    Good luck with your decision! (but I'd go 19"...)
    Paul

  99. #199
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    hi JoeFriday
    how tall are you ? I am 5,7 with 30 inseam, on the Bd web site it say I should pick small, but I think I should go with medium, anyone got any thought can help me here

    thanks!

  100. #200
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    Go with the small. I am 5' 8" with 30" inseam and I went with the medium (17" Night Train rigid) and I regret it. I should've gone with the BD recommendation for a small. You want more stand-over clearance in the snow.


    Quote Originally Posted by kuanlin View Post
    hi JoeFriday
    how tall are you ? I am 5,7 with 30 inseam, on the Bd web site it say I should pick small, but I think I should go with medium, anyone got any thought can help me here

    thanks!

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