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  1. #4201
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrWrestlingII View Post
    Im looking into purchasing a Sturgis Bullet and see there are new 2015 models available for $300 less than the 2018 model. It looks like the 2018 model has upgraded rims/tires and is 1x11. For those in the know, what is your opinion on spending the extra $$$ for the newer model?

    Also, what size would you recommend for 6 with a 32 inseam? This bike will be used for all seasons in MN, 95% river bottoms trail riding.

    And any other bikes you would buy over the Sturgis Bullet in the same price range?

    Thanks for any replies.
    At 6' tall, you are right on a large. I'm 6'3" and I just fit on it. I would not want the XL.
    1x11 doesn't impress me. I've never had an issue with any front derailleur ever.

    -F
    It's never easier - you just go faster.

  2. #4202
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    Sturgis NX Stack and Reach

    Quote Originally Posted by Mtbstigo View Post
    2. What's the reach of this frame. I ride a medium 17.5 inch. Mine came with a 80mm stem and seems spot on.
    I did a bit of size comparison with my Jamis XAM I mountain bike that I have been comfortably riding for many years. (Nearly Identical to the Medium Sturgis)

    I calculated the 17.5" Sturgis NX to have the following ...
    Stack = 563.4mm
    Reach = 433mm

    You can see that I am off a little because the actual top tube is 1.3mm long in my drawing. That is due to the lack of details around the standard fork length and offset. (and my impatience fixing such a small error.)

    The Reach and Stack will be effected by the Bluto which I believe is longer and more slack.

    There is also a website that actually gave me the idea to create the drawing. Stack and reach calculator I had trouble gaining confidence in the website due to the few dimensions missing from the Motobecane geometry data. This is what gave me the idea for my own sketch.

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-sturgis-nx-stack-reach.jpg

  3. #4203
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mickey1970 View Post
    I did a bit of size comparison with my Jamis XAM I mountain bike that I have been comfortably riding for many years. (Nearly Identical to the Medium Sturgis)

    I calculated the 17.5" Sturgis NX to have the following ...
    Stack = 563.4mm
    Reach = 433mm

    You can see that I am off a little because the actual top tube is 1.3mm long in my drawing. That is due to the lack of details around the standard fork length and offset. (and my impatience fixing such a small error.)

    The Reach and Stack will be effected by the Bluto which I believe is longer and more slack.

    There is also a website that actually gave me the idea to create the drawing. Stack and reach calculator I had trouble gaining confidence in the website due to the few dimensions missing from the Motobecane geometry data. This is what gave me the idea for my own sketch.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Sturgis NX Stack and Reach.JPG 
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ID:	1168144
    Thanks! And interesting I figured reach was smaller since my bike came with a 80mm stem but also at its highest point on the steerer tube and I have a bluto. So figure it's around 410 +80 =490mm which sounds about right for a medium.

  4. #4204
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    Hi. I've not ridden a rigid mountain bike since I first started 25 years ago...and I quickly upgraded to full suspension before I began riding technical stuff. Buying the night train bullet for snow pack, and jeep roads in all seasons to make that part of Colorado peakbagging more fun. Also plan to use in Fruita/Moab with wife who enjoys the tamer trails. Have been wavering between the Night Train ti super light build w/ carbon fork vs the ti 2x drive train build with Bluto. Appreciate any views.

  5. #4205
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    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-hqfvxmq.jpg

    Finally ditched the Vee Rubber Snowshoes that came with my bike. I didn't loose much weight (if any) as my bike still comes in at 30.25 lbs ready to ride. However, my god does it handle better now. I can actually rail corners on this thing without fighting it to stay on line. I was running my snowshoes at 7f/8r PSI on hardpack and was getting a bit of self-steer. I ran these tires at the same PSI and there wasn't a single trace of self-steer. I think I'm gonna run 6f/7r next time out.
    Last edited by thisisbenji; 11-26-2017 at 04:34 PM.

  6. #4206
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    Finally ditched the Vee Rubber Snowshoes that came with my bike....
    Might be imgur, but I cant see your photo.

    What tires did you pick up?


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  7. #4207
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    I can't see the image either. I just replaced the Snowshoes with Kenda Jauggernauts
    2017 Diamondback Mason Pro
    2017 Salsa Bucksaw Carbon
    2016 Pivot Mach 6 Carbon
    2015 Motobecane Sturgis Bullet

  8. #4208
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    Whoops, idk what's up with imgur. Sometimes it works really well, sometimes it won't show the photo despite the link being just fine.

    Anyways I went with the Jumbo Jim Snakeskin 4.0s. Seemed like it would be a good all around tire for my trails.

  9. #4209
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    Has anyone swapped out the POS Novatec D202-SB 197/12 thru axle hub with a DT Swiss big ride 350 and been able to reuse the same spokes (Mulefut rim)? One spoke calc has the current spokes as laced Novatec/Mulefut if reused on the DT, the NDS spokes are approx 1.8mm short, and the drive side at 1mm long, but there's always play - and these measurement are pretty close.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  10. #4210
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    Can someone with a large (19") Sturgis Bullet (with 120mm Bluto at no sag) get me an accurate wheelbase measurement, please?
    Spec says 1144mm (45"). I'm still trying to sort out some steering issues.

    Thanks,
    -F
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  11. #4211
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    Has anyone swapped out the POS Novatec D202-SB 197/12 thru axle hub with a DT Swiss big ride 350 and been able to reuse the same spokes (Mulefut rim)? One spoke calc has the current spokes as laced Novatec/Mulefut if reused on the DT, the NDS spokes are approx 1.8mm short, and the drive side at 1mm long, but there's always play - and these measurement are pretty close.
    I'm pretty sure the bike shop had to replace the short ones when I swapped.

  12. #4212
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    Quote Originally Posted by KTMNealio View Post
    I'm pretty sure the bike shop had to replace the short ones when I swapped.
    Thank you sir. I'm going to give it a go lacing it up at home with the expectations that it won't work. It'll be good practice anyway - been a while since I've laced anything up. When/if it goes south, I'll have the lbs build it up correctly. Updates as I have them.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  13. #4213
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    looking to put a Manitou Mastodon w/ 1 1/8 steerer dia. on my Sturgis, just wondering if anyone knows the size of the race that needs to be pressed on to the steerer tube of the new fork to accept the lower headset bearing?
    Gotta Ride Fat !!!

  14. #4214
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    Found an annoying 'feature' of the Sturgis/Night Train AL frame. I bought a Topeak Uni Super Tourist Fat rack for my Sturgis. Aside from the rack mount threads being painted and making it a pain to get screws started....

    The non-drive side lower rack mount is about 10mm inboard of center compared to the drive side. Dumb move from Kinesis. On a rack like the Topeak - or most other racks for that matter - where there is no means of lateral adjustment, your rack winds up off center over the rear tire and cannot be manipulated to correct it. Still works but is annoying if you are anal-retentive like me. I'll be sourcing a 10mm/.375 spacer and longer screws to get this thing centered on the bike. Trying to flip adjuster legs and what have you doesn't work.

    Just an FYI for those trying to rack these things....

  15. #4215
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fleas View Post
    Can someone with a large (19") Sturgis Bullet (with 120mm Bluto at no sag) get me an accurate wheelbase measurement, please?
    Spec says 1144mm (45"). I'm still trying to sort out some steering issues.

    Thanks,
    -F
    I measured 1180mm. The best I can tell, the 1144mm figure is with a rigid fork that would measure around 470mm a-c. It was a year ago, but I recall measuring a HTA of 66.5 degrees with the 120 Bluto, using an angle finder that's been accurate across all my other bikes. Bikes Direct has some bad geometry charts.

  16. #4216
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    anyone get one of those LAVA RED NightTrain Bullets? Wondering if that is a matte color. Not clear from the pix, but it does look more matte than gloss.

    Been reading the entire thread and will get a bike soon. Still undecided on 1x11 vs 2x11, but it will be one of the Bluto models with GX drivetrain. Prefer red, but 2x11 would be better for my intended use and save me from getting a turbine chinch spider and chainrings. The front derailleur isn't really needed, but I want the range of the 2x.

  17. #4217
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    Quote Originally Posted by OhioPT View Post
    I measured 1180mm. The best I can tell, the 1144mm figure is with a rigid fork that would measure around 470mm a-c. It was a year ago, but I recall measuring a HTA of 66.5 degrees with the 120 Bluto, using an angle finder that's been accurate across all my other bikes. Bikes Direct has some bad geometry charts.
    Thank you! Maybe I am imagining all this, because that's pretty much what I got (46-and-not-quite-a-half"). This bike used to steer so much better, though. I can't figure out what's going on. The headset is free, the fork is good, no bent bars... arrrgh! Maybe it's some weird tire thing...

    Do you check your head angle on the fork leg?

    -F
    It's never easier - you just go faster.

  18. #4218
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountainelf View Post
    anyone get one of those LAVA RED NightTrain Bullets? Wondering if that is a matte color. Not clear from the pix, but it does look more matte than gloss.

    Been reading the entire thread and will get a bike soon. Still undecided on 1x11 vs 2x11, but it will be one of the Bluto models with GX drivetrain. Prefer red, but 2x11 would be better for my intended use and save me from getting a turbine chinch spider and chainrings. The front derailleur isn't really needed, but I want the range of the 2x.
    I spend a lot of time in the small chainring slogging away. The chainlines aren't great on these to begin with, but it would only be amplified by going 1x if you spent most of your time in low, grinding gears. I love 1x on my full suspension ride, but I'm sticking with 2x on my fatty - it especially comes into play when the summer tires go on. I've come to enjoy the novelty of a front derailleur again now that I'm on the fatty more.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  19. #4219
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    I spend a lot of time in the small chainring slogging away. The chainlines aren't great on these to begin with, but it would only be amplified by going 1x if you spent most of your time in low, grinding gears. I love 1x on my full suspension ride, but I'm sticking with 2x on my fatty - it especially comes into play when the summer tires go on. I've come to enjoy the novelty of a front derailleur again now that I'm on the fatty more.
    yeah. the more I think about it, I want that derailleur. Manual ring change by hand is fine, but if the trail is a roller coaster, I know I won't be changing it every time I need to swap front rings. plus, the 2x11 costs the same as the 1x11, with shifter, derailleur, and extra chain ring.

    It's just that every 19" NightTrain 2x with or without suspension right now is a black bike and I already have 3 black bikes...

  20. #4220
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    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread

    Entering the second season with my Sturgis. Such a fun bike. No issues besides that rear hub which was replaced with a DT Swiss.

    https://instagram.com/p/BcfgSvyBiML/



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    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-img_0514.jpg  


  21. #4221
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    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread

    I am contemplating switching my 15 NTB crankset to a raceface turbine setup. Are there any drawbacks (other than cost) to this solution?

  22. #4222
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    Quote Originally Posted by WhiskeyJr View Post
    I am contemplating switching my 15 NTB crankset to a raceface turbine setup. Are there any drawbacks (other than cost) to this solution?
    I have a "15 NTB w/samox cranks and a '16 NTB w/turbines. There's no doubt the Raceface's are better, but I can't tell a difference between the two when riding. I'm sure one's light/stiffer/stronger/better, but it just hasn't really come into play yet...for me.
    I'd rather spend the money on wheels - especially if I was still rolling on the Weinmann rims.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  23. #4223
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    I've found the Turnagain tubeless ready wheels are a great deal. I own 3 sets of the 100mm ones and absolutely love them, but they don't have them anymore. Still, for only $300 the 80mm ones are a great deal. I have well over 1K on my black set and they're still perfect.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    Nothing to see here, move along folks.

  24. #4224
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    A couple of rides in and I can say it is well worth $1500. The best part is the weight (36 lbs) so come spring my other bike will feel like a rocket ship. Perfect winter training machine!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-20171217_114746_resized.jpg  


  25. #4225
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dilligaff View Post
    I've found the Turnagain tubeless ready wheels are a great deal. I own 3 sets of the 100mm ones and absolutely love them, but they don't have them anymore. Still, for only $300 the 80mm ones are a great deal. I have well over 1K on my black set and they're still perfect.
    I have a set in 65 and 80mm. I won't be getting any more of these. The rim diameter is overly wide, making for a massively tight fit...if you can get them to mount, even when trying to mount with tubes - the bead seat diameter is just way too tight. Tires that fit no problem on my Mulefut's don't come anywhere close to seating on these, for me, and the tires I've used. Every time I mount a tire up on these, I'm concerned about damaging another bead or casing due to the relatively high pressures required to force the bead to seat, even when using copious amounts of lube. I don't think I could successfully put a tube in on a ride if my tubeless failed and had to perform a field repair.

    Edited.
    Last edited by watermonkey; 12-18-2017 at 09:37 AM.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  26. #4226
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    Hi everyone. Just sharing a photo of my 2015 Sturgis Bullet taken last Nov 12, 2017 here in Brunei Darussalam.

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-img-20171112-wa0070.jpg

    Thanks for viewing and cheers!

  27. #4227
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    Has anyone swapped out the POS Novatec D202-SB 197/12 thru axle hub with a DT Swiss big ride 350 and been able to reuse the same spokes (Mulefut rim)? One spoke calc has the current spokes as laced Novatec/Mulefut if reused on the DT, the NDS spokes are approx 1.8mm short, and the drive side at 1mm long, but there's always play - and these measurement are pretty close.
    Laced the DT Swiss big ride into the Mulefut rim, re-using the stock spokes from the Novatec hub. Worked just fine for me. Just found the steepest hill I could find and mashed my way up it, standing, in granny gear...nary a pop, nor ping, nor skipping thing, no crunching, no munching, nor cracking or clacking, just standing and spinning, all the while grinning (whoah - Nyquil is kicking in).

    Long story short, its nice.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  28. #4228
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    Laced the DT Swiss big ride into the Mulefut rim, re-using the stock spokes from the Novatec hub. Worked just fine for me. Just found the steepest hill I could find and mashed my way up it, standing, in granny gear...nary a pop, nor ping, nor skipping thing, no crunching, no munching, nor cracking or clacking, just standing and spinning, all the while grinning (whoah - Nyquil is kicking in).

    Long story short, its nice.
    If you use the DT Swiss, do you retain the Axle spacers, or is the hub the correct width for the dropouts without the craptastic plastic washers?


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  29. #4229
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    Plastic spacers? Really? Bikes direct does some stupid stuff. I'm assuming that some of the 197 thru axle Novatec hubs require rear spacers, looking at the current Mulefut wheelset for sale on BD. Neither of my Sturgis/NT Bullets have these spacers - just a D202SB 197 thru axle hub.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  30. #4230
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    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread

    Damn. Snapped my derailleur hanger on the way to the office this morning. At least I only had to walk about a mile.

    The one I snapped is the old original one that came with the '15 NTB. I had already purchased a spare hanger of the improved variety from BD, but hadn't yet put it on.

  31. #4231
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    Quote Originally Posted by thisisbenji View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	HQfvxMq.jpg 
Views:	307 
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ID:	1169331

    Finally ditched the Vee Rubber Snowshoes that came with my bike. I didn't loose much weight (if any) as my bike still comes in at 30.25 lbs ready to ride. However, my god does it handle better now. I can actually rail corners on this thing without fighting it to stay on line. I was running my snowshoes at 7f/8r PSI on hardpack and was getting a bit of self-steer. I ran these tires at the same PSI and there wasn't a single trace of self-steer. I think I'm gonna run 6f/7r next time out.
    Which width of Jumbo Jim did you get and are you happy with it? I was thinking of getting 4.0 for a non-winter tire.

  32. #4232
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    Quote Originally Posted by WhiskeyJr View Post
    Damn. Snapped my derailleur hanger on the way to the office this morning. At least I only had to walk about a mile.

    The one I snapped is the old original one that came with the '15 NTB. I had already purchased a spare hanger of the improved variety from BD, but hadn't yet put it on.
    It's not improved... Haha. You need the machined one if you want a step up.

  33. #4233
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    Laced the DT Swiss big ride into the Mulefut rim, re-using the stock spokes from the Novatec hub. Worked just fine for me. Just found the steepest hill I could find and mashed my way up it, standing, in granny gear...nary a pop, nor ping, nor skipping thing, no crunching, no munching, nor cracking or clacking, just standing and spinning, all the while grinning (whoah - Nyquil is kicking in).

    Long story short, its nice.
    I'm either lucky, smart, or just on the countdown. My Novatec hasn't sharted the bed yet. Granted, before I even rode it, I threadlocked the end caps on to make sure it didn't develop play, but I've not been easy on it. I regularly do standing knee-busters up nasty inclines and it hasn't made so much as a peep yet.

    If it does go, it's not even a question of what I'll get to replace it. Love the DT350s on my other bikes.

  34. #4234
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    Regarding the '15 NightTrain, wondering peoples thoughts on the sizing... I ride all L bikes, but I am 5'10". I am looking at a used NightTrain Bullet and the owner is 5'10" (yes I got his height before him knowing mine haha). Is this going to be sized way to big for me? He has a 90mm stem on it (I assume for sizing) so thoughts?

    I will obviously test ride first, but its 2hrs from me, so don't want to waste mine time or his if its too big.

    Its been converted to a 1x as well.
    '17 Santa Cruz Bronson 2 A S
    '17 Trek Farley 7

  35. #4235
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    Quote Originally Posted by vanquishphoto View Post
    Regarding the '15 NightTrain, wondering peoples thoughts on the sizing... I ride all L bikes, but I am 5'10". I am looking at a used NightTrain Bullet and the owner is 5'10" (yes I got his height before him knowing mine haha). Is this going to be sized way to big for me? He has a 90mm stem on it (I assume for sizing) so thoughts?

    I will obviously test ride first, but its 2hrs from me, so don't want to waste mine time or his if its too big.

    Its been converted to a 1x as well.
    A friend of mine is 5'10" and he rides a L Motobecane fat bike so it should be OK for you.
    2017 Diamondback Mason Pro
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  36. #4236
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    Quote Originally Posted by vanquishphoto View Post
    Regarding the '15 NightTrain, wondering peoples thoughts on the sizing... I ride all L bikes, but I am 5'10". I am looking at a used NightTrain Bullet and the owner is 5'10" (yes I got his height before him knowing mine haha). Is this going to be sized way to big for me? He has a 90mm stem on it (I assume for sizing) so thoughts?
    I'm also 5'10", with a 33 inch inseam. I have the 2017 Night Train Express, in size 17.5 (which I believe is medium). I think it's just right. I never rode a 19 (which I believe is large), but I have a hunch it would be too big for me. FWIW my non-fat bike (2016 Trek 7.3FX) is a large and fits just right as well.

  37. #4237
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    I am also 5'10", I have a 2015 NTB medium.

    My legs are short and I have a longer torso, so YMMV.

  38. #4238
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    Quote Originally Posted by vanquishphoto View Post
    Regarding the '15 NightTrain, wondering peoples thoughts on the sizing... I ride all L bikes, but I am 5'10". I am looking at a used NightTrain Bullet and the owner is 5'10" (yes I got his height before him knowing mine haha). Is this going to be sized way to big for me? He has a 90mm stem on it (I assume for sizing) so thoughts?
    I'm 5'9" and have monkey arms and long'ish torso. I had a small for standover in snow and it was alright but a little short in top tube for me. That's part of the reason I bought a new frame. I sized up to a medium in the 9:zero:7 Tundra. I think a large might be pretty long and standover could be an issue. Remember that when you look at geometry it's spec'd for a rigid fork. When you add a bluto like the Bullet it adds an inch to standover

  39. #4239
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    Full frame triangle bag

    I'm looking to get a bag that will take up the entire open triangular section of the frame for my Sturgis. Does anyone know if it exists for the Sturgis/NT and where to get it? I've seen them on other brands of HT fat bikes but with differences in tube lengths and angles at all 3 sides and corners I don't know if a generic full frame bag will sit nice and snug in that void. Or are the 3 sides of a "generic" full frame bag compliant enough to conform to the subtle differences in tube lengths and angles? If you have a full frame bag can you share the make and model of it? A picture would help a lot too. Thanks.
    2017 Diamondback Mason Pro
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    2015 Motobecane Sturgis Bullet

  40. #4240
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    saw this custom frame bag source while looking at their pogies yesterday:

    Custom Frame Bag - Uraltour.com - bike expedition

  41. #4241
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    Quote Originally Posted by lalahg View Post
    Which width of Jumbo Jim did you get and are you happy with it? I was thinking of getting 4.0 for a non-winter tire.
    Hey, I just bought 1 JJ 4.0 to try out. Treads Wider than the Carcass?

    I think it's a really great tire. I will probably use it on the front.

    -F
    It's never easier - you just go faster.

  42. #4242
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    I love my JJ 4.0's for summer tires - I did find them to have some self steer on 80mm rims, now run them on i65 rims, they're perfect - really fast rollers, no self steer, great all around dry tire. Early reports claimed terrible durability with lots of sidewall cuts...not here. Plenty tough, easy tubeless setup.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  43. #4243
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    I love my JJ 4.0's for summer tires - I did find them to have some self steer on 80mm rims, now run them on i65 rims, they're perfect - really fast rollers, no self steer, great all around dry tire. Early reports claimed terrible durability with lots of sidewall cuts...not here. Plenty tough, easy tubeless setup.
    Have you used them in sand? New bike arriving has them and debating swapping in 4.8s immediately so I can sell them like-new.

    Will use on snow and sand but have a 29er for primary use.
    2017 Santa Cruz Tallboy C 29er
    2018 Canyon Dude fatty with Mastodon
    2018 Nashbar Sora Alloy gravel bike

  44. #4244
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    As with snow, your sand may be way different than my sand. The only really deep sand I've ridden this setup in is in Moab, up top around the Slickrock trail and other random trails up in the Sand Flats rec area. They did fine, as the lugs aren't really deep, but I am NOT a sand aficionado by any stretch. I've never ridden on a beach. I find these to be absolutely terrible in snow, if that helps. The JJ 4.0's are my summer tires. Bud and Lou in the winter on 80's.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  45. #4245
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    I'm looking to get a bag that will take up the entire open triangular section of the frame for my Sturgis. Does anyone know if it exists for the Sturgis/NT and where to get it? I've seen them on other brands of HT fat bikes but with differences in tube lengths and angles at all 3 sides and corners I don't know if a generic full frame bag will sit nice and snug in that void. Or are the 3 sides of a "generic" full frame bag compliant enough to conform to the subtle differences in tube lengths and angles? If you have a full frame bag can you share the make and model of it? A picture would help a lot too. Thanks.
    I have a Rogue Panda custom bag on both my bikes. Fits perfectly.
    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-fenders.jpg

    There isn't one that completely fill sout the triangle and many cost as much, some even more. I like the space-efficiency, but it also looks better to not leave the big gaps. I have the dual-compartment and the map pocket (shown).

    The way they size it is you hold (or tape) a measuring tape to your bike and take good pictures and they scale it from there.
    2018 Motobecane Sturgis NX
    2016 Giant Toughroad SLR1

  46. #4246
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    Got my bike today, loving it

    8 degrees F outside, sunny and just 2 " of snow, perfect to try out my just delivered Night Train Bullet 19" 2x11. 2 miles of frozen single track across the street from my house, so that's where I went.

    Bike weighs 34.2 pounds out of the box, but feels quite nimble. It'll be turned tubeless soon, I'll need a longer stem and wider bar as well. I'll go carbon on that and the seat post, although weight is really not a big deal. A rear rack is already in the mail, as this will be my nasty weather commuter, for those days I don't want to ride my old Gary Fisher to work (26.8 miles round trip)

    I did the Loctite on the rear axle spacer nut, checked everything for lube. Fork works just fine in 8F degree weather, too, although I wasn't out for more than an hour.

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-27768936769_ac5c00bf8e_b_d.jpg

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-27768935229_9b3dc7d65b_b_d.jpg

  47. #4247
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeepRage View Post
    Have you used them in sand? New bike arriving has them and debating swapping in 4.8s immediately so I can sell them like-new.

    Will use on snow and sand but have a 29er for primary use.
    I've used 4.0 Snowshoes in sand (around Lake Michigan, Lake Erie, and Lake Superior). At 4-5psi they were OK. Wider might be better, but there is always a trade-off in getting to the sand and fiddling with tire pressure. I am expecting the JJ 4.0s to do just fine. That is one reason I bought them. I got the JJ 4.0 Snakeskin.

    -F
    It's never easier - you just go faster.

  48. #4248
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    Ibera IB-RA5 rack on 2017 NTB

    I need a rack on my NTB, so I searched the thread and looked at all the mostly expensive options. Knowing that my dirt cheap Topeak on my other bike has lasted over 30,000 harsh commuter miles, I didn't feel like spending too much on a bomb proof rack for the few times I'll need it on the fat bike.

    I went with the cheapest one that is wide enough for this bike and it looks and feels quite solid. The adjustable height piece may be the weak spot to monitor (the entire weight on two M4 screws). It is the Ibera IB-RA5 for less than $30.

    It required a little trimming of the two adjustable rods that connect it in the front. Here's the result, ready for the first snow commute with my Ortlieb bags that snap right on at the top, while the bottom tab will need to be adjusted far to the side to latch behind one of the rear tube.

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-24805434707_a6f2501540_b.jpg

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-39643473642_24dfd65669_b.jpg

    Lots of room around the tire, and no spacers needed at all to install the main supports.

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-38965179114_45560f9769_c.jpg

    here underneath the skinny top tubes, the trimmed support rods - about 2 inches had to come off the end so they don't hit that main cross tube

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-39643469912_5fd3249eb5_b.jpg

  49. #4249
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    I made some changes to my Sturgis. I pulled off the original drivetrain and put on 1x11 using:

    Raceface Turbine Cinch cranks (170mm with 190mm spindle).
    Real World Cycling BSA30 bottom bracket with Enduro bearings
    absoluteBlack 28T oval cinch chainring.
    Sunrise 11-46 cassette
    SRAM GX 11 speed shifter and derailleur
    Shimano SP-41 cable outer
    I also swapped my 50mm stem I've been using and put the original 80mm back on.



    I've got links at the end of the video for the two funnest downhills as well.

    Overall, this has transformed the ride. I am really loving the simplicity of the 1x and the gear jumps on the Sunrise 11-46 are about perfect. Much better than a Shimano 11-46. The real revelation for me is the oval chain ring. Power delivery on climbs just appears so much smoother. This is critical for climbing in snow. I was able to climb much better than I usually can as there appeared to be no break-away "pulse" during peddling. Another factor may be that I reduced the crank length from 175mm to 170mm even though I am 5'11" with a 32" inseam. This is the second bike I have shorted cranks on and I just prefer it now.

    Anyway, if you are still using the original 2x that these bikes came with I would highly recommend this set up. It's a game changer for me.

  50. #4250
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    Anyone interested in my 29+ wheelset that I had on my Nighttrain?

    Hugo 52 rims
    Borealis Hubs
    150/197 spacing
    Surly Dirt Wizard 29+/Fat B Nimble tires are included.

    PM me if interested

  51. #4251
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    New DIY fender

    I'm still waiting for proper snow here this year (47F in Wisconsin on Jan 20? what's up with that?), but I'm getting my 2017 NTB dialed in more and more.

    I swapped the 80mm stem for a 100mm (I am 6'2" and the bike is a 19"). The stem I used came off my Cervelo road bike and it turns out the fancy 3T stem from the $7000 road bike is 20 grams heavier than the stem that came with the Motobecane. So, if you're looking to shave weight, the stem won't really get you much.

    I did get some Wolftooth single track pogies, since I don't want to swap the BarMitts I have on the daily ride back and forth. Those are really nice and will be mounted as soon as winter returns to these parts.

    Up next are Snowshoe XL studded tire - again, waiting for snow to see a reason to mount them. I'll wait with the tubless conversion until spring when I will be going back to the Minions. I am guessing swapping tires on a tubless setup is more involved than with a tube.

    A wider handlebar and lighter stem/seat are planned, too, but that will be about the extent of my mods at this stage. Still searching for the right cockpit position and that may decide what setback to choose for the stem.

    This weekend I added my commuter DIY rear fender. I used corrugated plastic, zip ties, super glue (to connect two sheets of plastic), and a lot of high viz tape. The Ibera rack makes it real easy to mount the fender. To remove, cut the zip ties. Takes 5 minutes to re-attach.








  52. #4252
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    Did anyone install an xD driver body (for SRAM 10T cassettes) on these Novatec hubs? On BDOPcycling seems to have them. they list the D202SB-11 for the xD driver.

    1. did you succesfully install it (and any problems?)
    2. did you need any other parts besides the $44.99 driver?

    With the potential to have to replace the hub at some point, one could say I just get a hub with xD body then. But I want to hope I don't need a new hub.

    I don't have immediate plans , but plan to install a smaller chainring and want to keep the option open to get a cassette with a 10T cog in the future. (not sure if needed or not). Maybe once I need a new cassette.
    2018 Motobecane Sturgis NX
    2016 Giant Toughroad SLR1

  53. #4253
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    I honestly see no reason to run an XD driver. You can accomplish the same thing with a wide range cassette on an HG driver..
    That's my $.02

  54. #4254
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    Has anybody fit a power meter to a Sturgis Bullet?
    I've placed the Raceface Aeffect Cinch crankset on my bike.
    I used the 170 rear spaced crankset instead of the 190 to get a more narrow Q-factor. With the frame curve, it clears perfectly but is close.

    I have read that the Stages Hollowgram crank arms should fit onto the Cinch spindles...however I'm weary of the crank curve in terms of clearing the frame since I pulled in the Q-factor already.

    The only option I'm seeing is a Powerpod (I use one on my road bike) - but I don't know if it's worth the hassle of trying to figure out the CRR (rolling resistance numbers) and all that jazz since the fat tires vary so much. -Plus I don't lock my fork or begin my ride on smooth surface to calibrate.

    **EDIT**
    Apparently the Race Face Aeffect Fat isn't a true 'Cinch' crank and uses a 24mm spindle that nobody makes a power meter for. The only possibility I see is either switch to a SRAM or Quarq setup (not going to happen $$$).
    Last edited by ztbishop; 02-06-2018 at 03:54 PM.

  55. #4255
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    I'm looking to get a bag that will take up the entire open triangular section of the frame for my Sturgis. Does anyone know if it exists for the Sturgis/NT and where to get it? I've seen them on other brands of HT fat bikes but with differences in tube lengths and angles at all 3 sides and corners I don't know if a generic full frame bag will sit nice and snug in that void. Or are the 3 sides of a "generic" full frame bag compliant enough to conform to the subtle differences in tube lengths and angles? If you have a full frame bag can you share the make and model of it? A picture would help a lot too. Thanks.
    Moosetreks frame bag, size medium, does the trick on a 19" frame. Fifty bones on Amazon.

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-kimg0198.jpg

  56. #4256
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadgerOne View Post
    Moosetreks frame bag, size medium, does the trick on a 19" frame. Fifty bones on Amazon.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks for the tip - but I didn't read your post well. I ordered a large, for my large Night Train frame....and it fits great. Looks custom. Completely fills the frame.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  57. #4257
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrWrestlingII View Post
    Im looking into purchasing a Sturgis Bullet and see there are new 2015 models available for $300 less than the 2018 model. It looks like the 2018 model has upgraded rims/tires and is 1x11. For those in the know, what is your opinion on spending the extra $$$ for the newer model?

    Also, what size would you recommend for 6 with a 32 inseam? This bike will be used for all seasons in MN, 95% river bottoms trail riding.

    And any other bikes you would buy over the Sturgis Bullet in the same price range?

    Thanks for any replies.

    Update: I chickened out on the BD purchase and picked up a 2018 Farley 5 from a local shop. Got my first ride in this morning on mostly crunchy ice and was surprised how well the bike performed.

    I did check out the Canyon Dude 8.0 but checking their website daily for a couple months the bike was never available for purchase.

  58. #4258
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    Just sharing my first fat bike purchase experience...after a few hours/days/weeks of comparing I decided on the Night Train Express because of the component list, Kinesis frame, etc. When comparing against other brands, I noticed that the Jamis Roughneck and the one from Growler use (what looks to me) the exact same frame for more money which in my mind made this model a no brainer when getting bang for the buck.

    I've done the blue loctite on the rear hub threads and while it was apart I cleaned up some of the stringy thick grease on the freehub and added a very thin layer of super lube which I prefer.

    Sadly...I've only had the chance to put on 2 miles around the block while chasing down my 4 year old on her balance bike. The experience of the fat bike is almost comical but fun and can't wait to actually use it on the snow...if it returns before the end of the season that is. My wife said it seems like the purchase of the fat bike scared off the snow in our area. She also says that about the lack of rain during the summer until I wash our cars...it rains a day or so later haha.

    Anyways...below are a few pictures of the bike for future reference as others who have posted helped me with the decision.

    Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

  59. #4259
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    Ooh, that's pretty. Nice FJ too, that's a cool green. Congrats on the new ride. Nothing beats that "first time on a fatty" feeling.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  60. #4260
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadgerOne View Post
    Moosetreks frame bag, size medium, does the trick on a 19" frame. Fifty bones on Amazon.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I have one of those Moostreks bags. Perfect size and excellent quality.
    Yukon Truck
    Novatec / Mulefut 80's
    Tsunami 4.9's

  61. #4261
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    Ooh, that's pretty. Nice FJ too, that's a cool green. Congrats on the new ride. Nothing beats that "first time on a fatty" feeling.
    Thank you!! And yes the looks I was getting from passing cars was even better haha

    Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by VDoubleUVR6; 03-17-2018 at 10:39 AM.

  62. #4262
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    Just wanted to share a picture of its first official ride today...snow was crunchy and there weren't many "groomed" lines on the trail. I found it more of a workout for my upper body trying to follow other bike lines and battling all the frozen foot steps. Either way it was fun and the grip from the tires reminded me of a 4x4 in low range just being able to pull itself up.

    Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

  63. #4263
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    Hello hoping this is a simple fix. I purchased a 2017 used Sturgis and I'm in the process of converting it from 2x to 1x. I had to grind off part of the front derailleur mount for chain clearance and purchased and installed the same Race Face crank (100mm spindle) that come stock on the current Nx1x. Tires are the Maxxis that is also stock on the current 1X model. My problem is I am getting a bit of chain rub on the sidewall when in the biggest 46 tooth gear (11 x 46) cassette. I have brought it to the shop as I am out of ideas and they have messed around with different combinations of spacers on either side of the BB but no luck. The bike tech is going to try dishing the wheel slightly to the non drive to make up the very small difference in space we need. Am I missing something simple here or is this how it would come stock as a 1X from BD as opposed to the 2X? Thanks!
    Last edited by gluestick; 03-19-2018 at 11:28 AM.

  64. #4264
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    Quote Originally Posted by gluestick View Post
    Hello hoping this is a simple fix. I purchased a 2017 used Sturgis and I'm in the process of converting it from 2x to 1x. I had to grind off part of the front derailleur mount for chain clearance and purchased and installed the same Race Face crank (100mm spindle) that come stock on the current Nx1x. Tires are the Maxxis that is also stock on the current 1X model. My problem is I am getting a bit of chain rub on the sidewall when in the biggest 46 tooth gear (11 x 46) cassette. I have brought it to the shop as I am out of ideas and they have messed around with different combinations of spacers on either side of the BB but no luck. The bike tech is going to try dishing the wheel slightly to the non drive to make up the very small difference in space we need. Am I missing something simple here or is this how it would come stock as a 1X from BD as opposed to the 2X? Thanks!
    i have the Nx that comes as 1x11. It came with a 2x crank and the 30t chainring it came with was on the outer (104 mm BCD) spider. I converted to a 26T oval chainring and attached tot he smaller spider (64 mm BCD?). I assume your crank is similar since for me they just used a 2x rank to be 1x. So you should be able to do the same.

    With the new smaller chainring chainline moved a bit inboard. I have an AB oval chainring and it is a bit recessed to move it a bit to the outside. the chain is very close to my 4.8" tires, but leaves about 5 mm space.

    So it should be possible. I don't thinking dishing the wheel is a good idea, there should be better ways. I assume you installed your single chainring on the inner spider. If you can live with a 30T chainring, you could get one for the outer spider.
    2018 Motobecane Sturgis NX
    2016 Giant Toughroad SLR1

  65. #4265
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    Thank you for the reply. It is indeed mounted to the outer spider (farthest from BB). I purchased the same Raceface crank that came standard on your bike. The tech dished the wheel a tad and gained the clearance I needed. A test ride at low pressure with some steep climbing in the snow confirms I am now in the clear. Wondering if anyone else has some input as I would like to one day put a Lou in the back which I am assuming will put me back in the same predicament.

  66. #4266
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    Quote Originally Posted by gluestick View Post
    Thank you for the reply. It is indeed mounted to the outer spider (farthest from BB). I purchased the same Raceface crank that came standard on your bike. The tech dished the wheel a tad and gained the clearance I needed. A test ride at low pressure with some steep climbing in the snow confirms I am now in the clear. Wondering if anyone else has some input as I would like to one day put a Lou in the back which I am assuming will put me back in the same predicament.
    This is odd since it indicates the chain should also rub in the normal 2x setup when you cross-chain (large-large) and definitely when you would have it run in normal lowest gear (small chainring - large rear cog). Maybe i misunderstand what is going on, but it sounds like something is wrong here and dishing the wheel is just masking the problem.
    Or do you have 100mm rims, making the tire wider? I have the original 80mm rims.

    maybe some pictures?
    2018 Motobecane Sturgis NX
    2016 Giant Toughroad SLR1

  67. #4267
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    Well my rear hub has suffered the same sad fate as the many before it. I am looking at the DT Swiss big ride and was curious if the flange size is the same as the stock Novatec 197mm so I do not have to replace the spokes. Anyone out there know the answer to this?

  68. #4268
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    Quote Originally Posted by gluestick View Post
    Well my rear hub has suffered the same sad fate as the many before it. I am looking at the DT Swiss big ride and was curious if the flange size is the same as the stock Novatec 197mm so I do not have to replace the spokes. Anyone out there know the answer to this?
    Very unlikely to fit. Flange size is only one part, also the flange location from the frame may be different (spokes in different angle). Look at a spoke calculator what dimensions play a role.

    But for less than a $ you can get DT Swiss double-butted spokes (a bit lighter and stronger than your existing straight spokes). So $32 extra shouldn't be too bad compared to the hub.

    To throw in another wrench, look at the DT Swiss rims that are lighter

    I also have the Novatec but only have 350 km so far of easy riding. May i ask how many miles and what riding yours lasted? I'm fully prepared to at some point have to do the same.
    2018 Motobecane Sturgis NX
    2016 Giant Toughroad SLR1

  69. #4269
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    Quote Originally Posted by gluestick View Post
    Well my rear hub has suffered the same sad fate as the many before it. I am looking at the DT Swiss big ride and was curious if the flange size is the same as the stock Novatec 197mm so I do not have to replace the spokes. Anyone out there know the answer to this?
    see post 4227 - seems to be something that can be done:

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread

    This is one of my to-do list items. I will likely do it for the rear wheel only, and only once the Novatec in mine is going out, at least for my winter wheel set. The winter wheels for me are mostly a commuter thing. Summer is where I see more of a need for a stronger hub, so I am thinking of building a second set of wheels for summer use.

    Right now I am on the fence between buying another set from BD and lacing in the DT Swiss hubs, or just building something completely from scratch based on carbon rims. All depends how ambitious I am getting about doing the Colorado trail in a fat bike this year. It may take an extra year before I get to that project.

  70. #4270
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    Quote Originally Posted by HerrKaLeun View Post
    To throw in another wrench, look at the DT Swiss rims that are lighter
    Those lighter rims also bend a lot easier than the Mulefuts.

    My Novatec is now 4 months old and has about 800 miles of use on it. Lots of commuting miles with sand and salt, plus some single track use and the hub works like on the first day. That said, I hate how it engages.

  71. #4271
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    So now that the snow is melting and things are picking up speed... What is the lightest you have gotten your fat bikes to? I have the 2018 model with bluto, mulefets, 1x11, and maxxis minions. Medium frame at 36 lbs. I'm hoping I can get to 30ish. Anyone accomplished this?

  72. #4272
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mtbstigo View Post
    So now that the snow is melting and things are picking up speed... What is the lightest you have gotten your fat bikes to? I have the 2018 model with bluto, mulefets, 1x11, and maxxis minions. Medium frame at 36 lbs. I'm hoping I can get to 30ish. Anyone accomplished this?
    interesting - my bike is a Dec 2017 2x11 with Bluto frame Large and came in at just over 34lbs out of the box. Already changed stem and front bars (carbon), but then added rack and fenders. Still about the same weight. Could be crappy Chinese hanging scale deviation but 2 pounds and being a bigger bike with 2x drivetrain, it should be heavier than yours.

    I am going tubeless once I get the second wheel set, likely DIY carbon with DTSwiss hubs, and I may also swap in a carbon seat post. Perhaps a different seat, although I kinda like the one on the bike. It's just a heavy bugger. Ignoring the added weight of racks and fenders, I guess I may get close to 30lbs. Anything lighter than that means lose the Bluto for a carbon fork. I could lose a few ounces going single speed/

  73. #4273
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    Hmm same specs? I used a hanging Chinese scale too I got from Amazon. I suspect most of my weight to be coming from the minion 4.8 tires. I looked them up a while back I think they were 1600g per tires plus heavy tubes. They offer tons of grip on the downhills but they make me want reach cardiac arrest on the uphills. Even in snow on the downhills they would grip... Anyway I might get lighter tubeless summer tires 3.8s or so which I think should fit into the 80mm mulefets. If this bike reaches 30lbs.... I might just leave my fs trail bike behind.

  74. #4274
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    Installed a set of skinny 29 wheels on my NTX for the summer.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-356e359f-5748-4574-b0ce-0704972be53f.jpg  


  75. #4275
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    Looks very nice. How much is that weighing? I imagine sub 30? Also is that a custom wheelset or did you buy 29er rims on fat hubs from somewhere?

  76. #4276
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    I'm looking for a way to apply a direct force power meter to my Motobecane Sturgis Bullet.
    Raceface does not yet make their Cinch power meter spindle in fat size.
    I see no hubs compatible.
    This leaves just one possibility. I see Stages makes the following (and is very hard to find).
    Stages GXP Carbon Mountain Bike Power Meter.

    What GXP cranksets will clear the Sturgis? I see people mention the X5, although I tried this way back in the day and the crank hit the frame of my Mongoose with 197 spacing. Perhaps the curved structure of the Motobecane would clear the X5? I see someone else mention X9? I assume these (being sram) are for 170 rear spacing rather than 190? - SRAM doesn't even mention this on their own site.
    Assuming X9 or X5 now work, would I be limited to running the outer ring (meaning I'd have to use a 32 or bigger chainring?)

    I see the new GX Eagle GXP fat crank could use the X-sync 2 direct mount ring. However, those 'LOOK' to be directional and I'm wondering if that would have to be reversed outward to clear the frame or give correct chainline? As the Eagle chainring looks directional I don't think reversing it would work...then again I see a 4" and 5" version (I'm assuming these correlate with 170 and 190 spacing).

    So basically, I don't know if or what would work that's mentioned above.
    I'm currently running a race face aeffect fat crank (170 rear spacing) and reverse a 26 tooth chainring OUT-ward to correct the chainline -and- give a narrow Q-factor for my knees, while still clearing the frame without issue. I'd want to know that I can do something similar before investing a boat-load of money into a power meter.

    Now if Raceface would put the power meter spindle for a fatbike, I'd just do the 170 spacing and (again) reverse the chainring. But I see no ETA on that. The Sammox 190 spacing crank destroyed my knees....I'm a bit worred if other 190 spaced cranks are a similar Q-factor.

  77. #4277
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountainelf View Post
    This weekend I added my commuter DIY rear fender. I used corrugated plastic, zip ties, super glue (to connect two sheets of plastic), and a lot of high viz tape.
    I did something similar on mine, but I extended the downtube fender and bent the end down in front of the chainrings. Before bending it, I inserted a couple of old spokes to act as stiffeners. This setup protects the drivetrain from the spray off the front wheel and really helps to keep things cleaner and minimize wear.

  78. #4278
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    Before I go any further with my idea above on placing a Stages GXP power meter on this bike, can anyone confirm if any of the SRAM fat cranks give enough frame clearance for the power meter which is bonded to the inside of the crank arm?

    https://store.stagescycling.com/site...20RD-FG.01.jpg

  79. #4279
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    Quote Originally Posted by ztbishop View Post
    Before I go any further with my idea above on placing a Stages GXP power meter on this bike, can anyone confirm if any of the SRAM fat cranks give enough frame clearance for the power meter which is bonded to the inside of the crank arm?

    https://store.stagescycling.com/site...20RD-FG.01.jpg
    there should be plenty of room for that thing.

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    Over the last few days I've noticed a rather annoying creaking from what appears to be the bottom bracket area. Bike has less than 500 miles on it, mostly commuting, so I am not sure what's up. Chain is clean, pedals and shoes are solid and lubed. It isn't seat or handlebars, and it isn't permanent, just at increased loads. The noise shifts from a persistent "click" at a particular pedal position to a more complex creak and click at various positions around the stroke, again, mostly when pushing higher loads. Spinning low gears usually is quiet.

    Already time to take apart the bottom bracket? I am worried the snow and slush of recent has made it through the hole at the bottom of the downtube and is messing up the bearings. Or is there an easier explanation?

  81. #4281
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    Has anyone successfully run an internal dropper post cable on their Sturgis? Looking in with a flashlight, it looks pretty tight in the inside of the seat tube/down tube junction to fit the cable either over or under the BB in there.

  82. #4282
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountainelf View Post
    Over the last few days I've noticed a rather annoying creaking from what appears to be the bottom bracket area. Bike has less than 500 miles on it, mostly commuting, so I am not sure what's up. Chain is clean, pedals and shoes are solid and lubed. It isn't seat or handlebars, and it isn't permanent, just at increased loads. The noise shifts from a persistent "click" at a particular pedal position to a more complex creak and click at various positions around the stroke, again, mostly when pushing higher loads. Spinning low gears usually is quiet.

    Already time to take apart the bottom bracket? I am worried the snow and slush of recent has made it through the hole at the bottom of the downtube and is messing up the bearings. Or is there an easier explanation?
    I think I found the problem this morning - searching for other bikes with the RaceFace Turbine Cinch having creaking problems pointed at the chainring to axle interface possibly being dirty/dry. For a quick test I soaked it in WD40 and went on a 1 hour ride. Not a single pop or creak!

    It's the teeth visible on the left where you want to keep it clean and lubed if you hear creaks under load from a RaceFace turbine crank


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    Hey Vdub. I have the same bike and have been happily riding it in all conditions! Deep snow, mud, dry single track, rails to trails. Made a couple of small changes to the original set-up since I got it in January. Converted to tubeless and went with a 4" Jumbo Jim on the back and left the Maxis 4.8 on the front. Works Great! Noticeably faster rolling than with the stock tire on back. Close to 400 miles on it and I may never use my full carbon 29'er ever again!Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-img_3140.jpg

  84. #4284
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountainelf View Post
    Over the last few days I've noticed a rather annoying creaking from what appears to be the bottom bracket area. Bike has less than 500 miles on it, mostly commuting, so I am not sure what's up. Chain is clean, pedals and shoes are solid and lubed. It isn't seat or handlebars, and it isn't permanent, just at increased loads. The noise shifts from a persistent "click" at a particular pedal position to a more complex creak and click at various positions around the stroke, again, mostly when pushing higher loads. Spinning low gears usually is quiet.

    Already time to take apart the bottom bracket? I am worried the snow and slush of recent has made it through the hole at the bottom of the downtube and is messing up the bearings. Or is there an easier explanation?
    An easy check, please verify tightness of the crank-ring bolts. They came loose on me......


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    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread

    One of my work buddies is sold on these bikes after he demoed mine.

    Anyone have a good deal on a used medium Sturgis or Night Train? Located in the greater DC area.


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  86. #4286
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    Just pulled apart my rear axle, to re-tighten my Novatech hub. Cant find any axle spacers, I can't remember when they might have dissapeared.

    Is the only source for these things Bikes Direct, or is there another source for these tiny spacers?

  87. #4287
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    Quote Originally Posted by WhiskeyJr View Post
    Just pulled apart my rear axle, to re-tighten my Novatech hub. Cant find any axle spacers, I can't remember when they might have dissapeared.

    Is the only source for these things Bikes Direct, or is there another source for these tiny spacers?
    I didn't think the stock wheels came with axle spacers on the rear axle, just their aftermarket novatec "197" rear wheels. Are you sure you're missing them?
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  88. #4288
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    I didn't think the stock wheels came with axle spacers on the rear axle, just their aftermarket novatec "197" rear wheels. Are you sure you're missing them?
    I really cant remember. This is a 2014/2015 model, and I could have sworn there were axle spacers on this silly novatec hub. Am I hallucinating?


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  89. #4289
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    There's a very simple way to tell, put the wheel back on the bike. If it fits the frame properly, you don't need spacers. If you do need spacers, it will be obvious. A 30-second test could have saved you days of waiting for a definitive answer here.

  90. #4290
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    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Bnystrom View Post
    There's a very simple way to tell, put the wheel back on the bike. If it fits the frame properly, you don't need spacers. If you do need spacers, it will be obvious. A 30-second test could have saved you days of waiting for a definitive answer here.
    Ok. So when I pull out the axle, should the hub fit flush in the dropouts, or should there be any gap?

    Update:
    I was a complete novice on all things bike when I put this thing together when I bought it.

    It definitely needed spacers, I had no idea how it was supposed to go together. Im not confident the spacers were ever shipped with the bike.

    Even better, now that the wheel fits correctly in the rear triangle, the axle is about 5mm short (obviously) in the derailleur hanger.

    Now to purchase a new axle, I guess.

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    Last edited by WhiskeyJr; 07-11-2018 at 05:19 PM.

  91. #4291
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    internally routed dropper post

    I searched this thread and it seems some people installed EXTERNALLY routed dropper posts. Some people seem to speculate one could install an internally routed post by routing the cable around the BB... but it wasn't clear if someone actually did.

    My apologies if I just missed this already resolved. I never had a dropper post.

    I have the 2018 Sturgis NX and believe all the frames are the same.
    so can one install an internally routed dropper post? And if so, what is the trick?
    2018 Motobecane Sturgis NX
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  92. #4292
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    Quote Originally Posted by HerrKaLeun View Post
    I searched this thread and it seems some people installed EXTERNALLY routed dropper posts. Some people seem to speculate one could install an internally routed post by routing the cable around the BB... but it wasn't clear if someone actually did.

    My apologies if I just missed this already resolved. I never had a dropper post.

    I have the 2018 Sturgis NX and believe all the frames are the same.
    so can one install an internally routed dropper post? And if so, what is the trick?
    I think you can only use a dropper with external cable. There's no access hole at the bottom of the seat tube to run an internal cable through. That's what I had to do but my Sturgis is the 2015 model and I don't know if they put a hole at the bottom for the 2018 models. Just look around at the bottom of the seat tube either just above the bottom bracket where the seat tube, down tube, and the chain stays meet or behind it.
    2017 Diamondback Mason Pro
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  93. #4293
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    And then this happened....

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-leftage.jpg

  94. #4294
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaximumX View Post
    And then this happened....

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I think someone has stolen half of your fork.


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  95. #4295
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    Quote Originally Posted by WhiskeyJr View Post
    I think someone has stolen half of your fork.
    Or did I steal half of theirs? :-)

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    Hi,

    I recently picked up a '15 NightTrain Bullet (17.5") local off Craigslist as my first fatbike. I have finally read through all 43 pages and have several questions at this point.

    1. Re: derailleur hanger. Now that both the improved BD version and a machined alternative (at twice the price) have been available for awhile--which are people having better experience with? Is the new hanger #28 doing the job? The bike I bought has the silver, one "ear" version so it clearly isn't the original and I want to have a spare on hand.

    2. Lightweight tubes--I saw the Q Tubes SLs kinda went from a popular mod for those not going tubeless (I'm in that camp for a couple reasons) early on to something that has caused some people issues and many are now avoiding. My plan now is to run 3.8-4" tires on trails outside Winter and something 4.7-8" in the snow. Has anyone found a lighter-than-stock tube that can handle that range of tire widths?

    3. There was discussion of people putting 29er and 27.5+ wheelsets on in summer and liking it. 27.5 Fat seems to be the new thing and I'm wondering if anybody has tried that on their Sturgis/NightTrain yet and how clearance & performance were. If it works on the NT, I may hold off buying 4.0" JJs for 3 season trail use and wait to see if BD comes out with a 27.5Fat wheelset for sale next Spring instead.

    4. Has anyone put a bash guard on their 2x setup? I know I'm going to have to wear actual pants for snow riding up here in VT and wondering how people (especially those using it to commute) keep the grease off their pants in Winter.

    5. Standover and the Bluto--I know a number of folks have changed their Bluto from 120mm travel to 100mm and I'm leaning toward doing that too both for improved handling on the kinds of trails I ride (not a "bomb down the mountain" kinda guy) as well as getting more standover. Did anyone who changed the fork travel measure the actual difference they got in both SO and BB height/drop? Before I sink the time into reading the Bluto thread and the money into making the change I thought I'd see if anyone had the actual #s specific to the Sturgis/NT.

  97. #4297
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    I'm selling my Sturgis Bullet is anyone is interested. The link to the ad is here: 2015 Motobecane Sturgis Bullet - MTBR Classifieds I'm in central NJ. Make me an offer.
    2017 Diamondback Mason Pro
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    2016 Pivot Mach 6 Carbon
    2015 Motobecane Sturgis Bullet

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