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  1. #4101
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    Quote Originally Posted by longknives View Post
    I got the 6 bolt disk version, but yes that is the hub.

    https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...s.php?id=80813

  2. #4102
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    Tentatively planning on buying a 2017 Motobecane Sturgis.

    In addition, I reheheally want 100mm rims. Any guesses on the minimum it would cost to outfit the Sturgis with 100mm wheels (black) at some point? If that sort of undertaking is even possible. If it can't be done, I'll just throw in the white towel and get a fuji wendigo 26 2.1. Dang, want that Sturgis tho.

  3. #4103
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    I'm perfectly happy with the 80mm MuleFut rims. It can accommodate 5.0 tires no problem which I think is the widest tire you can get.
    2017 Diamondback Mason Pro
    2015 Motobecane Sturgis Bullet
    2015 Giant AnyRoad 1
    2016 Diamondback Catch 2

  4. #4104
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    I'm perfectly happy with the 80mm MuleFut rims. It can accommodate 5.0 tires no problem which I think is the widest tire you can get.
    thank you for your feedback. that should alleviate my case of the jitters during this purchase decision.

  5. #4105
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    I'm running 100mm Turnagain rims tubeless with Bud/FBR and they're awesome on my NTB. They fit without an issue but more than 18 psi in the Bluto and the Bud rubs. No issue with any pressure in the rear FBR. I bought the wife a Boris the Evil Brut just so we can swap wheels back and forth since we have 4 sets, two Mulefuts and two Turnagain FR100's.
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  6. #4106
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dilligaff View Post
    I'm running 100mm Turnagain rims tubeless with Bud/FBR and they're awesome on my NTB. They fit without an issue but more than 18 psi in the Bluto and the Bud rubs. No issue with any pressure in the rear FBR. I bought the wife a Boris the Evil Brut just so we can swap wheels back and forth since we have 4 sets, two Mulefuts and two Turnagain FR100's.
    that sounds like an ideal setup, for sure.

  7. #4107
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    Night Train / Sturgis tip of the day: grease the rear through axle. I've been chasing squeaks and creaks in the BB area (2x pedal rate creaks) for a couple of weeks... and most of the problem turned out to be the rear thru axle. Gawd but it's nice to have a quiet bike again.

    The upside is that just about every metal/metal junction on my bike has been cleaned, inspected and greased now.

  8. #4108
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    I have chased down the creaking on my Night Train Ti to the bottom bracket and want to replace it, not just the bearings, since I have the same corrosion posted here. I saw a post about other companies making a replacement BB but can't find it now. Can anyone link to better alternatives than the RaceFace X-Type BB with stock Turbine cranks?
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  9. #4109
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dilligaff View Post
    I have chased down the creaking on my Night Train Ti to the bottom bracket and want to replace it, not just the bearings, since I have the same corrosion posted here. I saw a post about other companies making a replacement BB but can't find it now. Can anyone link to better alternatives than the RaceFace X-Type BB with stock Turbine cranks?
    I'll likely buy the stainless steel bearing version when the time comes. RWC BSA 30 BOTTOM BRACKET w/ANGULAR CONTACT BEARINGS

  10. #4110
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    Since I've had good results with them in the past, I ordered a Phil Wood BB and will report back. While not cheap, I don't mind paying for quality if it solves the problem.
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  11. #4111
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dilligaff View Post
    Since I've had good results with them in the past, I ordered a Phil Wood BB and will report back. While not cheap, I don't mind paying for quality if it solves the problem.
    Link? I can't seem to find a Phil BB compatible with the Turbine crankset.

  12. #4112
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    First Fatbike, didnít want to break the bank so I bought a Boris off Bikes Direct. Less than 200 miles old so far. I like it so far. Fatbikes do draw a lot of attention!!!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-boris.jpg  


  13. #4113
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    Quote Originally Posted by no sweat View Post
    Link? I can't seem to find a Phil BB compatible with the Turbine crankset.
    Fits awesome, no creaking and smooth as silk. I couldn't be happier. I bought a blue one.

    Phil Wood & Co.
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  14. #4114
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dilligaff View Post
    Fits awesome, no creaking and smooth as silk. I couldn't be happier. I bought a blue one.

    Phil Wood & Co.
    Stainless or aluminum?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  15. #4115
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dilligaff View Post
    Fits awesome, no creaking and smooth as silk. I couldn't be happier. I bought a blue one.

    Phil Wood & Co.
    That's a 25mm ID bearing set. It doesn't fit the 30mm axle of the Turbine Cinch crankset.

    ????

  16. #4116
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    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by no sweat View Post
    That's a 25mm ID bearing set. It doesn't fit the 30mm axle of the Turbine Cinch crankset.

    ????
    Is that the size of the earlier Samos crank from the 2015/6 models?


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  17. #4117
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    Quote Originally Posted by no sweat View Post
    That's a 25mm ID bearing set. It doesn't fit the 30mm axle of the Turbine Cinch crankset.

    ????
    Mine is a 2016 model and has the standard Turbine crankset, not the Cinch. None of them I have seen come with the Cinch.
    Last edited by Dilligaff; 08-13-2017 at 08:38 PM.
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  18. #4118
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    I've been reading about and drooling over fat bikes for... I've lost track of how long. I had my eye on the Sturgis NX, but it looks sold out in my size (17.5). I figured I should at least do a test drive of a fat bike before dropping $1k+ on it. So I test drove a 2017 Trek Farley 7 at my LBS this past weekend. It was every bit as fun as I thought it would be. It's like a human-powered dirtbike!

    So I just pulled the trigger on the 2018 NightTrain Express. Looks like it won't ship until the first half of September.

    This will be my first time assembling a bike. I see BD has lots of videos on assembly tips, so I'm not too worried about that. I want to get more familiar with DIY bike maintenance anyway, so I thought this would be a good way to force me to learn.

    So, while I anxiously wait... any general assembly tips that may not be immediately obvious to a newbie? What tools or other supplies should I get in the meantime so the assembly can go smoothly once the bike is delivered? Seems I've seen a few references to people disassembling some components, adding lube/grease, then re-assembling. Anyone care to offer a short list of things that might be sub-optimal from the factory? What kind of lube does everyone use?

    Thanks!

  19. #4119
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    In my experience, higher priced Motobacons don't have the lube issues frequently reported on the Gravity's. To reassembly your bike you'll need a 5mm Allen wrench and a presta valve air pump. Perhaps another size mm Allen or two, depending on your seat's hardware. Got pedals? They typically ship with some POS resin ones that are not worth even taking out of their shrink pack. If you're on a budget Race Face Chesters are a nice value.

  20. #4120
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    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread

    All of the Allen keys on my NTB are either 4, 5, or 6mm, and it shipped without any pedals.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  21. #4121
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    Also forgot that one of the typical cost cutting places in Motobacons is the saddle. Can't recommend enough the Ergon "sofa". You place your butt on one of those and you won't get back. Grips are a must update item too.

    Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk

  22. #4122
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    Thanks for the feedback! Despite saying it wouldn't ship until September, I actually received it today!.

    General assembly was a breeze... but I'm stuck on the front disc break.

    As-shipped, the pads were too close together to fit around the rotor. So I loosed the caliper bolt basically all the way, and shoved the plastic spacer tool in between the pads to separate them a bit. I was able to get the break mounted to the frame, but the pads rubbed something awful on the rotor.

    Per this video I first loosened the bolts that hold the break assembly to the frame. I squeezed the break lever, but they were still so tight that I still couldn't keep them from rubbing. (Just by eye-balling the pads, they look way too close together compared to the thickness of the rotor.)

    So I went to step two from the same video and removed the pads entirely. I tried to use that plastic spacer tool to push the pistons back, but they didn't appear to budge.

    Then I think I did something stupid: I squeezed the break lever while the pads were out. This caused one of the pistons to actually pop out, and with it a bunch of fluid came out.

    I re-set the piston, and re-installed the break pads. They still rub on the rotor. And it appears I've lost all pressure in the break level itself, as squeezing it has virtually no resistance, and it doesn't activate what little room is left in the breaks.

    What next?

    Thanks!

  23. #4123
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    Just get the correct fluid and fill it back up and bleed it properly. I never bled these brakes but I did Shimano XT several times and it's not a very big job at all. Once you do it once it takes maybe 15 min to do.

  24. #4124
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    Quote Originally Posted by Casual_Rider View Post
    Then I think I did something stupid: I squeezed the break lever while the pads were out. This caused one of the pistons to actually pop out, and with it a bunch of fluid came out.
    Quote Originally Posted by dariusf View Post
    Just get the correct fluid and fill it back up and bleed it properly. I never bled these brakes but I did Shimano XT several times and it's not a very big job at all. Once you do it once it takes maybe 15 min to do.
    As far as I can tell, the bleeder kits (fluid, syringes, bleeder block) are fairly expensive, $40 to $100 depending on brand, fanciness, etc. One LBS I talked to said if my SRAM Guide RS brakes are the latest model, they require a special coupling between syringe and brake. Most of the LBSes around here only charge $40 for a brake bleed service. While I want to learn DIY bike maintenance, I'm also impatient to actually get some miles on this thing! And how often do you really need to do a brake bleed anyway (i.e., surely learning that particular skill can wait).

    Being Saturday, many LBSes around here won't do a same-day bleed service, but I found one that would. When I took the bike in and told the serviceman what happened, he said, "Oh, the piston shouldn't fall out like that." He actually got on the phone with SRAM directly. SRAM said the re-seating I did probably won't cut it, and that the brake might need to be rebuilt completely (or replaced), otherwise it's likely to end up leaking brake fluid. He told the service guy to hold off working on it until he talks with an SRAM engineer. Being the weekend, I might not find out for a couple days what's going to happen.

    Then I told the LBS guy to hold off, this ought to fall under warranty. He said that's very unlikely since technically this is user negligence. I shouldn't have pulled the brake lever without the pads or a bleeder block in there. OK, at the shop it will stay.

    So... I guess I am learning about DIY maintenance... just didn't expect an expensive lesson right from the get-go. For any other newbies out there like me, take your time with the non-obvious stuff like hydraulic brakes!

  25. #4125
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    I'm assuming everyone else likes pictures as much as I do... Here's my new NTE, next to my Trek 7.3FX.

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-night_train_20170819-scaled.jpg

  26. #4126
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    Quote Originally Posted by Casual_Rider View Post
    As far as I can tell, the bleeder kits (fluid, syringes, bleeder block) are fairly expensive, $40 to $100 depending on brand, fanciness, etc. One LBS I talked to said if my SRAM Guide RS brakes are the latest model, they require a special coupling between syringe and brake. Most of the LBSes around here only charge $40 for a brake bleed service. While I want to learn DIY bike maintenance, I'm also impatient to actually get some miles on this thing! And how often do you really need to do a brake bleed anyway (i.e., surely learning that particular skill can wait).
    I hear you but my thoughts are following at least in my case I have 8 bikes (wife 1, kids 4, my 3) and 6 of them have hydraulic disk brakes and I do all of the maintenance other than complete rebuilds of shocks. Under normal circumstances you should not have to bleed brakes much, once every couple years depending on your riding conditions and how much you ride. The bleeding kit is ~$50 and a large bottle of fluid under $20. With that I can do at least a couple dozen changes if not more. Once you do one you can do next around 20 min tops. If needed I'm back on the road in under half an hour.

    Alternative is taking your bike to the LBS and in many cases leaving there for about a week on top of the cost.

    I'm all for supporting LBS but but in the end of the day 1) I enjoy working on my bikes 2) It is my money 3) speed of getting something done

    Being Saturday, many LBSes around here won't do a same-day bleed service, but I found one that would. When I took the bike in and told the serviceman what happened, he said, "Oh, the piston shouldn't fall out like that." He actually got on the phone with SRAM directly. SRAM said the re-seating I did probably won't cut it, and that the brake might need to be rebuilt completely (or replaced), otherwise it's likely to end up leaking brake fluid. He told the service guy to hold off working on it until he talks with an SRAM engineer. Being the weekend, I might not find out for a couple days what's going to happen.
    I call it complete BS but what do I know Your pistons will push out all the way if you keep pressing the lever with no pads or bleeding block in it. Its normal mechanical function, they are making far too big of a deal out of it. you open up the top cover in the reserver, push in the piston with something that will not damage it, bleed. It's not like the piston fell out by itself due to some defect... One other thing I would say that if you choose to take your bike(s) to LBS make sure you find a good one. I have 5 in my immediate area and unfortunately the staff at 2 of them are complete a holes.

    Sorry to hear you are out of the bike, that really sucks.. good luck getting this taken care of.

  27. #4127
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    Quote Originally Posted by Casual_Rider View Post
    I'm assuming everyone else likes pictures as much as I do... Here's my new NTE, next to my Trek 7.3FX.
    Thats a great color, here are a few pics of my (highly modded and frame has custom powder coating).

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-20160317_134024_resized.jpg

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-20160317_134042_resized.jpg

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-20161224_131534-large-.jpg

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-20161224_132854-large-.jpg

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-20161224_150205-large-.jpg

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-20161224_150241-large-.jpg

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-20161224_150253-large-.jpg

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-20170101_131348-large-.jpg

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-img_8733-large-.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-20161224_131534.jpg  

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-20161224_132854.jpg  

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-20161224_150253.jpg  

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-20161224_150241.jpg  

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-20170101_131348.jpg  


  28. #4128
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    Well I'm about to pull the trigger on a medium Sturgis for the wife. Any chance there are any used bikes for sale out there?

  29. #4129
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    Quote Originally Posted by Troy Carter View Post
    Well I'm about to pull the trigger on a medium Sturgis for the wife. Any chance there are any used bikes for sale out there?
    My orange in the pics above is for sale but it's a small

    Small 15.5"
    Rider Height Range: 5'5" to 5'8"
    Effective Top Tube Length: 22.6 inches
    Standover: 27.8 inches

  30. #4130
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    I finally took the new NTE out for a spin!

    Quote Originally Posted by hectorlandaeta View Post
    Also forgot that one of the typical cost cutting places in Motobacons is the saddle. Can't recommend enough the Ergon "sofa". You place your butt on one of those and you won't get back. Grips are a must update item too.
    Saddle seems OK, at least for now. But the stock grips suck. I didn't expect them to be that bad, but I think they're roughly on-par with wrapping some electrical tape around the naked bar! Is there a favorite high-value grip? I really like stock ergonomic grips on my 2016 Trek FX7.3; I was thinking that Ergon GP1 looks to be similar.

    Regarding the front brake issue...

    Quote Originally Posted by dariusf View Post
    <snip>
    I call it complete BS but what do I know Your pistons will push out all the way if you keep pressing the lever with no pads or bleeding block in it. Its normal mechanical function, they are making far too big of a deal out of it. you open up the top cover in the reserver, push in the piston with something that will not damage it, bleed. It's not like the piston fell out by itself due to some defect... One other thing I would say that if you choose to take your bike(s) to LBS make sure you find a good one. I have 5 in my immediate area and unfortunately the staff at 2 of them are complete a holes.
    At any rate, I got the bike back yesterday. The LBS mechanic says he spoke with an SRAM engineer, who said that for the Guide RS series, it's a 50/50 chance whether or not the seal is broken when the piston comes out. The LBS guy said he went ahead and bled the brake, then (per SRAM engineer instruction) waited six hours to see if it leaked. It didn't, so he sent the bike home with me.

    Now, in the shop and walking the bike out to my car, the brake seemed OK. But when actually riding it, it has basically zero stopping power. It puts a little friction on the rotor, but at any speed above a slow walking pace, it does nothing to actually stop the bike. (Whereas the rear brake will completely lock the wheel up.) Despite that, I don't see any signs of leakage.

    Any thoughts on how to best approach this?

    I think I'm going to buy a bleeder kit and bleed it myself. Need to learn to do that anyway. I.e., maybe the LBS guy just did a lousy job bleeding it/didn't get all the air out. If that still doesn't fix it, dunno.

  31. #4131
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    Hey Casual_Rider, did your LBS change out the brakes pads as well?
    In my experience, you can feel a bad bleed at the lever... so I'm thinking the pads may be contaminated.
    Try swapping the pads from the rear to the front (assuming your rears are good)... making sure to clean the rotors w/ isopropyl alcohol first & then and see if there's a difference.

    2017 Chiner 29er (XC-race bike)
    2017 Specialized Turbo Levo

    2012 Canfield Jedi
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    2015 Motobecane Sturgis Bullet
    (fatbike)
    2011 Raleigh Renevio (road bike)
    2011 Giant Reign
    (my primary Trail bike)


  32. #4132
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    Quote Originally Posted by cfanto View Post
    Hey Casual_Rider, did your LBS change out the brakes pads as well?
    In my experience, you can feel a bad bleed at the lever... so I'm thinking the pads may be contaminated.
    Try swapping the pads from the rear to the front (assuming your rears are good)... making sure to clean the rotors w/ isopropyl alcohol first & then and see if there's a difference.
    They did not change out the pads. When you say, "you can feel a bad bleed at the lever", can you expand on that a bit? The front brake does feel "mushy" to me. You can pull it all the way to the grip. The LBS said, as he handed the bike to me, "this should tighten up after you pump it a bit." I took his word for it; but it never did tighten up. (In hindsight I should have drove around the parking lot before hauling it home. I said I wanted to learn with this bike and learn I am!)

    But I like your suggestion to swap front and back pads. Zero cost and not too hard! (Makes me think I should have thought of it.)

  33. #4133
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    Casual_Rider,

    Based on your description, a pad swap may not be valid - it sounds like either a crappy bleed job from your LBS or the piston seals were possibly damaged when they popped out causing air leaks. However if the seals were bad, I would expect to see fluid on the caliper - does the bottom of the caliper look/feel wet?
    If your brakes were properly bled, you shouldn't have to pump them up to get them firm - odd to have the shop tell you that. When you get the bike back from them, the brakes are supposed to be firm & ready to go. When my brakes are at the point where I have to pump them to firm them up, or levers pull all the way to the bar, or feel mushy - that's when I bleed them. Brakes should not do any of that after a proper bleed.

    2017 Chiner 29er (XC-race bike)
    2017 Specialized Turbo Levo

    2012 Canfield Jedi
    (DH bike)
    2015 Motobecane Sturgis Bullet
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    2011 Raleigh Renevio (road bike)
    2011 Giant Reign
    (my primary Trail bike)


  34. #4134
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    Quote Originally Posted by dariusf View Post
    My orange in the pics above is for sale but it's a small

    Small 15.5"
    Rider Height Range: 5'5" to 5'8"
    Effective Top Tube Length: 22.6 inches
    Standover: 27.8 inches
    Looks like a great bike there! But, I think I'm convinced on the medium frame for her. She's 5'-9" and although I think she could pull off a small frame I'd rather have the medium and put a short stem on it than a small with a longer stem.

    Thanks

  35. #4135
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    Quote Originally Posted by cfanto View Post
    Hey Casual_Rider, did your LBS change out the brakes pads as well?
    In my experience, you can feel a bad bleed at the lever... so I'm thinking the pads may be contaminated.
    Try swapping the pads from the rear to the front (assuming your rears are good)... making sure to clean the rotors w/ isopropyl alcohol first & then and see if there's a difference.

    Very good advice, please try this. Do clean the rotors and brake caliper itself to make sure there is no mineral oil left that could contaminate the rear pads. Also unless you are doing downhills you should not have that much need for front brakes so I would ride but still work on getting it fixes

  36. #4136
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    I tried to buy a Sturgis NX, but it was sold out. This gave me time to fret over this purchase even more and read almost all the pages here. Some questions:

    1. In the beginning many derailleur hanger issues, but they re-designed. Is this still an issue with new bikes? i realize this forum is just a subset of the general population and only people with problems post to complain. I understand what the hangers do, I broke one last year on a different bike due to chain break.
    2. Seems the rear hubs cause problems. Not only expensive, but also cumbersome to change since it requires wheel re-built. Was there any improvement on new bikes or newer hubs? I realize this is out of the hands of BD (except speccing Novatec). But I see "brand" name bikes like Trek or Specialized either don't tell you want hubs they use to begin with, or use their own OEM brand. So this seems more an industry than BD problem. Obviously it would be my problem if it happened to me....
    3. For sizing I'm 6' tall, 180#, 34"inseam and have long arms (always problem finding sweaters etc. with long enough arms). I also plan to snow-ride. Per sizing chart 6' is right between the M (17.5") and L (19"). It seems people here are happier with going the smaller size? I know they have their language for "personal preference and sizing up for more aggressive". Obviously without trying it out it is hard to tell. I test rode a Trek Farley and it was one with suspended fork in M, and one with rigid fork in L and I couldn't tell a difference. I know there have been 100 comments on that already, why not one more? With the steep head tube standover height seems to be an issue (also noticed that on Trek and Specialized fatbikes I tried).
    4. Since they are sold out and I have to wait, I wonder when they change their model year? Maybe i should wait for 2018 models? I want 1x11 drivetrain and would hope over time they offer more 1x11 and get rid of the 2x10 or 2x11. Would give me more choices over the few 1x11 they have now. I have bicycles to ride and can wait till snow
    5. How often do they re-stock? I tried checking out some other bikes (just for testing) and bare frames, but nothing really available. there wasn't even a pre-order option I saw (and I'm not excited about paying and then waiting for ages)

  37. #4137
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    Quote Originally Posted by HerrKaLeun View Post
    I tried to buy a Sturgis NX, but it was sold out. This gave me time to fret over this purchase even more and read almost all the pages here. Some questions:

    1. In the beginning many derailleur hanger issues, but they re-designed. Is this still an issue with new bikes? i realize this forum is just a subset of the general population and only people with problems post to complain. I understand what the hangers do, I broke one last year on a different bike due to chain break.
    2. Seems the rear hubs cause problems. Not only expensive, but also cumbersome to change since it requires wheel re-built. Was there any improvement on new bikes or newer hubs? I realize this is out of the hands of BD (except speccing Novatec). But I see "brand" name bikes like Trek or Specialized either don't tell you want hubs they use to begin with, or use their own OEM brand. So this seems more an industry than BD problem. Obviously it would be my problem if it happened to me....
    3. For sizing I'm 6' tall, 180#, 34"inseam and have long arms (always problem finding sweaters etc. with long enough arms). I also plan to snow-ride. Per sizing chart 6' is right between the M (17.5") and L (19"). It seems people here are happier with going the smaller size? I know they have their language for "personal preference and sizing up for more aggressive". Obviously without trying it out it is hard to tell. I test rode a Trek Farley and it was one with suspended fork in M, and one with rigid fork in L and I couldn't tell a difference. I know there have been 100 comments on that already, why not one more? With the steep head tube standover height seems to be an issue (also noticed that on Trek and Specialized fatbikes I tried).
    4. Since they are sold out and I have to wait, I wonder when they change their model year? Maybe i should wait for 2018 models? I want 1x11 drivetrain and would hope over time they offer more 1x11 and get rid of the 2x10 or 2x11. Would give me more choices over the few 1x11 they have now. I have bicycles to ride and can wait till snow
    5. How often do they re-stock? I tried checking out some other bikes (just for testing) and bare frames, but nothing really available. there wasn't even a pre-order option I saw (and I'm not excited about paying and then waiting for ages)
    I've had my 2014 Sturgis since early 2015.
    1) My drlr hanger has survived a few hits and adjustments (bends), but I am on my 3rd one. That is way more than any other bike I've ever owned, BUT the drlr really hangs out there with these 197mm rear ends, so maybe it just comes with the territory.
    2) My rear hub has been just fine, but I have been vigilant. I don't allow any looseness, and I keep the ratchet clean and properly lubed. Cold weather can stiffen up some lubes and affect the engagement.
    3) I'm 6'-3" on a large. I even got away with a shorter stem, so I'd say they run a little on the big side. Medium for a 6-footer sounds right.
    4) I ordered mine in Nov. and didn't get it until Feb. (dock workers strike). It was a 2014. Don't know about 1x11. I'm running 2x10 (actually 2x8 - took out 2 middle cogs) and really like it for what I do. If you wait, prices may go up.
    5) Don't know.

    -F
    It's never easier - you just go faster.

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    Quote Originally Posted by HerrKaLeun View Post
    I tried to buy a 1. In the beginning many derailleur hanger issues, but they re-designed. Is this still an issue with new bikes? i realize this forum is just a subset of the general population and only people with problems post to complain. I understand what the hangers do, I broke one last year on a different bike due to chain break.
    I just received the Night Train Express (NTE). It's the same frame as the Sturgis. I too wanted the Sturgis NX, but it was sold out. Not wanting to wait I opened up the wallet a bit farther and got the NTE. Still 1x gearing, which is something I definitely wanted. It also has other small component upgrades (GX vs NX gears, carbon fork, etc).

    I just got mine so haven't abused it at all yet. But I noticed it did ship with spare derailleur hanger. Not sure what to make of that...


    Quote Originally Posted by HerrKaLeun View Post
    2. Seems the rear hubs cause problems. Not only expensive, but also cumbersome to change since it requires wheel re-built. Was there any improvement on new bikes or newer hubs? I realize this is out of the hands of BD (except speccing Novatec). But I see "brand" name bikes like Trek or Specialized either don't tell you want hubs they use to begin with, or use their own OEM brand. So this seems more an industry than BD problem. Obviously it would be my problem if it happened to me....
    Way too soon for me to tell. I'll just keep an eye on this thread, try to take good care of the hub (and bike in general), and hope for the best.


    Quote Originally Posted by HerrKaLeun View Post
    3. For sizing I'm 6' tall, 180#, 34"inseam and have long arms (always problem finding sweaters etc. with long enough arms). I also plan to snow-ride. Per sizing chart 6' is right between the M (17.5") and L (19"). It seems people here are happier with going the smaller size? I know they have their language for "personal preference and sizing up for more aggressive". Obviously without trying it out it is hard to tell. I test rode a Trek Farley and it was one with suspended fork in M, and one with rigid fork in L and I couldn't tell a difference. I know there have been 100 comments on that already, why not one more? ...
    I wear pants with a 34" inseam. But if I measure my "true" inseam, without shoes, it's 32". The shoes I generally wear take me up to 33" inseam. I'm about 5'10" barefoot (add an inch for shoes). I have longish arms, though not overly long.

    I too test drove a 2017 Trek Farley 7 with a rigid fork, size L. It seemed to fit OK.

    I ended up getting the 17.5/M NTE, though strongly considered the large. I'm glad I got the medium: the standover height is a little higher than I expected. I suspect the large would be risky for my man parts.

    Keep in mind, I've only done one ride, but I don't see any size issues with the medium. Feels pretty comfortable to me, actually.

    FWIW, I also have a 2016 Trek 7.3 size 20/large, and I find it pretty comfortable.


    Quote Originally Posted by HerrKaLeun View Post
    5. How often do they re-stock? I tried checking out some other bikes (just for testing) and bare frames, but nothing really available. there wasn't even a pre-order option I saw (and I'm not excited about paying and then waiting for ages)
    No idea. I think you'd have to call or email BD to know for sure. The sales page for the NightTrain Express is for the 2018 model, and says it won't ship until sept 1 through 15. I ordered on Sat, Aug 12 and they shipped Mon, Aug 14. The box indicates I got the 2017 model. So the listing page clearly isn't 100% accurate!

  39. #4139
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    Quote Originally Posted by HerrKaLeun View Post
    I tried to buy a Sturgis NX, but it was sold out. This gave me time to fret over this purchase even more and read almost all the pages here. Some questions:

    1. In the beginning many derailleur hanger issues, but they re-designed. Is this still an issue with new bikes? i realize this forum is just a subset of the general population and only people with problems post to complain. I understand what the hangers do, I broke one last year on a different bike due to chain break.
    2. Seems the rear hubs cause problems. Not only expensive, but also cumbersome to change since it requires wheel re-built. Was there any improvement on new bikes or newer hubs? I realize this is out of the hands of BD (except speccing Novatec). But I see "brand" name bikes like Trek or Specialized either don't tell you want hubs they use to begin with, or use their own OEM brand. So this seems more an industry than BD problem. Obviously it would be my problem if it happened to me....
    3. For sizing I'm 6' tall, 180#, 34"inseam and have long arms (always problem finding sweaters etc. with long enough arms). I also plan to snow-ride. Per sizing chart 6' is right between the M (17.5") and L (19"). It seems people here are happier with going the smaller size? I know they have their language for "personal preference and sizing up for more aggressive". Obviously without trying it out it is hard to tell. I test rode a Trek Farley and it was one with suspended fork in M, and one with rigid fork in L and I couldn't tell a difference. I know there have been 100 comments on that already, why not one more? With the steep head tube standover height seems to be an issue (also noticed that on Trek and Specialized fatbikes I tried).
    4. Since they are sold out and I have to wait, I wonder when they change their model year? Maybe i should wait for 2018 models? I want 1x11 drivetrain and would hope over time they offer more 1x11 and get rid of the 2x10 or 2x11. Would give me more choices over the few 1x11 they have now. I have bicycles to ride and can wait till snow
    5. How often do they re-stock? I tried checking out some other bikes (just for testing) and bare frames, but nothing really available. there wasn't even a pre-order option I saw (and I'm not excited about paying and then waiting for ages)

    1 - After reading all the horror stories, I kept telling myself I need to order a hanger soon. I've had my Sturgis Bullet for a couple years now & I still haven't bought a spare hanger yet. I'm probably one of the lucky few that has never had a problem (knock on wood). The bike has had only one big crash on it (not by me though) and I always lay my bikes on the ground on their non-drive side.

    2 - I haven't had any issues w/ my hubs & I love to ride in the rain & mud. However, last year I did regrease the hubs when I bought a Lurch with Mulefuts - I wanted to swap the wheelset over to the Sturgis which required an axle swap (QR vs TA).

    3 - I can't help you with sizing as I'm 5'6" and purchased the small. The 26" fatty's are essentially 29ers and that increases both stand-over & stack-height. While I feel comfortable riding a medium in 27.5 & 26, I felt small would be a better fit w/ regards to fattys or 29ers. Somewhere in this thread someone mentioned stand-over being important if you regularly ride in the snow... but you also have to account for the reach/effective top tube length as well - you don't want to feel cramped on the bike.

    4 - yeah, I kinda wished I had waited a couple more months... damn, impulse buy! Mine came with the crappy Wienmann's & Samox. Then a couple months later, the next batch came out w/ Mulefut's, RaceFace cranks, & Maxxis Minions.

    5 - I was in the same boat - they were out of the color & size Sturgis I wanted. But I didn't want to commit (in case I found a deal on another fatty) so I just checked the site daily & subscribed to their email alerts.

    Good luck!

    2017 Chiner 29er (XC-race bike)
    2017 Specialized Turbo Levo

    2012 Canfield Jedi
    (DH bike)
    2015 Motobecane Sturgis Bullet
    (fatbike)
    2011 Raleigh Renevio (road bike)
    2011 Giant Reign
    (my primary Trail bike)


  40. #4140
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    Quote Originally Posted by Troy Carter View Post
    Looks like a great bike there! But, I think I'm convinced on the medium frame for her. She's 5'-9" and although I think she could pull off a small frame I'd rather have the medium and put a short stem on it than a small with a longer stem.

    Thanks
    Keep in mind if you get a suspension fork it adds about 1" to the standover. I'm about 5'9" and seem to have ape arms so I felt a little scrunched on a small. Wasn't a fan of the feel of a 100mm stem. Wasn't comfortable with going medium due to standover in snow. Used that as a reason/excuse to get a different brand frame with a curved top tube for better standover.

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    Just got and assembled a Sturgis NX, to replace an SE F@E. I'm very happy with what I got for the money. I'll be taking full preventative measures on the rear hub to see if I can keep it from self-destructing in short order. The stem is disposable and the bars questionable, but other than that it's a fine machine. I'm 6' and wear a 34" inseam, and the fit of the 19" is spot-on. Mine also came with a spare derailleur hanger.

  42. #4142
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    Anyone have a 19" Sturgis frame they want to sell?
    I am convinced that I bent mine even though I can't measure it. It just doesn't ride right.
    Bikesdirect can't help me now because they have no extra frames, and I don't want to spend the ~$600+ and end up with yet another Bluto.

    Thanks,
    -F
    It's never easier - you just go faster.

  43. #4143
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    Quote Originally Posted by no sweat View Post
    Night Train / Sturgis tip of the day: grease the rear through axle. I've been chasing squeaks and creaks in the BB area (2x pedal rate creaks) for a couple of weeks... and most of the problem turned out to be the rear thru axle. Gawd but it's nice to have a quiet bike again.
    Forgive my newbie question, but is that as simple as it sounds? I.e., pull axle out, smear with grease, put axle back in and go? Or is there some subtlety that I'm missing? Regular lube like Park Tool PPL-1 PolyLube 1000?


    An update on my front brake situation for those who may be interested...

    Quote Originally Posted by cfanto View Post
    Hey Casual_Rider, did your LBS change out the brakes pads as well?
    In my experience, you can feel a bad bleed at the lever... so I'm thinking the pads may be contaminated.
    Try swapping the pads from the rear to the front (assuming your rears are good)... making sure to clean the rotors w/ isopropyl alcohol first & then and see if there's a difference

    ...

    Based on your description, a pad swap may not be valid - it sounds like either a crappy bleed job from your LBS or the piston seals were possibly damaged when they popped out causing air leaks. However if the seals were bad, I would expect to see fluid on the caliper - does the bottom of the caliper look/feel wet?
    If your brakes were properly bled, you shouldn't have to pump them up to get them firm - odd to have the shop tell you that. When you get the bike back from them, the brakes are supposed to be firm & ready to go. When my brakes are at the point where I have to pump them to firm them up, or levers pull all the way to the bar, or feel mushy - that's when I bleed them. Brakes should not do any of that after a proper bleed.
    I finally received my bleed kit. My NTE has the newer SRAM Guide series brakes that require the "bleeding edge" tool. The first bleed kit I ordered didn't have that. Looks like Avid/Sram has released several bleed kits over the years. Amazon sells multiple versions, some listings even have inconsistent pictures. I ended up ordering this kit.

    The bleed process took me a little while, mainly because it was my first time and I went slowly, stopping several times to re-watch the howto video. But like everyone here said, it will be quick and easy the next time I do it.

    At any rate, having done the bleed, I can confidently say that the LBS did a lousy job. Not only did they return the bike with mushy/poorly bled brakes, but the safety pin for the pad screw is missing; also they did not replace the rubber bleed plug on the calipers. (Hmmm, maybe there was a reason they were the only ones who didn't have a backlog when I called around a couple weeks ago?) It's been not quite 24 hours since I did the bleed, but the brakes are firm (moreso than my rear brake now!), and have some legitimate stopping power. I also don't see any leaking brake fluid, so I'm pretty sure the piston seals are good.

    The only thing now, I still can't completely lock up the front wheel the same as the back. There is some definite friction there, and it really does slow the bike down. Maybe completely locking the front wheel is unsafe anyway? But now I'm wondering if perhaps I didn't get some brake fluid on the pads when first screwed up? Likewise, the LBS's quality of work is suspect, maybe they got some fluid on the pads?

    I cleaned the rotors (front and back) with rubbing alcohol. I haven't yet swapped the pads between front and back yet though. Looks like pads aren't too expensive. Even if I don't actually need the pads, it can't hurt to have a spare set, right?

    Thanks all for the help and feedback! I feel pretty accomplished having bled those brakes.

  44. #4144
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    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread

    Just swapped my bottom bracket, the old one had completely failed.

    I have the older Samox crank, and swapped the stock bottom bracket with a higher-end raceface unit.

    I used this:
    Race Face Team DH X-Type Bottom Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003RLE7SA..._usObYGtT71jhc

    The never ending creak is gone, too.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  45. #4145
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    Quote Originally Posted by Casual_Rider View Post
    The only thing now, I still can't completely lock up the front wheel the same as the back. There is some definite friction there, and it really does slow the bike down. Maybe completely locking the front wheel is unsafe anyway? But now I'm wondering if perhaps I didn't get some brake fluid on the pads when first screwed up? Likewise, the LBS's quality of work is suspect, maybe they got some fluid on the pads?

    I cleaned the rotors (front and back) with rubbing alcohol. I haven't yet swapped the pads between front and back yet though. Looks like pads aren't too expensive. Even if I don't actually need the pads, it can't hurt to have a spare set, right?
    Having a spare set of pads is always handy but I would try bedding-in the brakes first.
    Before the bed-in process, I'll usually take sandpaper & lightly sand both pads (& sometimes) the rotor and then clean 'em w/ rubbing alcohol afterwards.
    The actual bed-in process consists of several hard stops which helps deposit pad material onto the rotors.
    I usually just do this on the street in front of my house - go as fast as I can & then hit the brakes really hard - usually after a few runs, they should start to feel more 'grabby'.

    You should always bed-in brakes when you get new pads or rotors.

    If you believe the pads are contaminated, you're supposed to junk them. However, I've had (some) luck in the past with burning off the oils from pads (using a heat gun or even a simple lighter) - you'll see black smoke rising from the pads when it gets hot enough. I've heard of some folks baking them in the oven... but personally, I wouldn't want fumes in my house. BTW, this should only be done on sintered pads! Do not do try to burn or bake organic pads.

    Hope that helps!

    2017 Chiner 29er (XC-race bike)
    2017 Specialized Turbo Levo

    2012 Canfield Jedi
    (DH bike)
    2015 Motobecane Sturgis Bullet
    (fatbike)
    2011 Raleigh Renevio (road bike)
    2011 Giant Reign
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  46. #4146
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    I did an overhaul on my night train this weekend and I think I lost the rear hub caps (black plastic piece that goes on each end of the axel). Does anyone know what size they are so I can order some? Thanks.

  47. #4147
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    Quote Originally Posted by H.Seaward View Post
    I did an overhaul on my night train this weekend and I think I lost the rear hub caps (black plastic piece that goes on each end of the axel). Does anyone know what size they are so I can order some? Thanks.
    Do you mean these?

    Name:  APRO-01P.jpg
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    You can get by without them.
    (btw - that's not the right one)

    -F
    It's never easier - you just go faster.

  48. #4148
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fleas View Post
    Do you mean these?

    Name:  APRO-01P.jpg
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    You can get by without them.
    (btw - that's not the right one)

    -F
    No, there are similar ones on the front wheel.
    They are needed otherwise the TA won't tighten down properly.

  49. #4149
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    Quote Originally Posted by H.Seaward View Post
    No, there are similar ones on the front wheel.
    They are needed otherwise the TA won't tighten down properly.
    On the rear of the Sturgis/Night Train, the thru-axle threads into the derailleur hanger, which, I thought, was held to the frame with a small bolt. The other end of the axle is the lever by which you tighten the axle, then secure it against rotation.
    I think I am misunderstanding you.

    All that stuff is aluminum.

    -F
    It's never easier - you just go faster.

  50. #4150
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fleas View Post
    On the rear of the Sturgis/Night Train, the thru-axle threads into the derailleur hanger, which, I thought, was held to the frame with a small bolt. The other end of the axle is the lever by which you tighten the axle, then secure it against rotation.
    I think I am misunderstanding you.

    -F
    Correct. But you can only tighten the TA so far. Then I flip the lever and there is no tension. It just flops around. So what I'm thinking is I lost the spacers that go on the ends of the hub (like the front) If there were hub spindle caps it would create more tension allowing the TA to tighten properly.

  51. #4151
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    Quote Originally Posted by H.Seaward View Post
    Correct. But you can only tighten the TA so far. Then I flip the lever and there is no tension. It just flops around. So what I'm thinking is I lost the spacers that go on the ends of the hub (like the front) If there were hub spindle caps it would create more tension allowing the TA to tighten properly.
    Look in under the lever. There is a small allen head in there. Set your lever tension with that screw (after you have screwed the axle down tight).

    -F
    It's never easier - you just go faster.

  52. #4152
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fleas View Post
    Look in under the lever. There is a small allen head in there. Set your lever tension with that screw (after you have screwed the axle down tight).

    -F
    Ok. Thanks. I'll try that tonight.

  53. #4153
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    ^^ Don't over-tighten that little screw though as it will only take about 5-6 Nm torque before it will break.. :-) the good thing it's easy to drill / EZ-out and a readily available size at the local hardware store.

    Make sure you add some blue loc-tite to the non-drive hub nut/axle spacer!! They tend to loosen over time then your freehub will destroy itself (the ratchet ring and/or pawls), along w/ the hub. Every new hub that I have w/ this new style of axle/freehub I've had long-term success w/ the blue loc-tite and frequent checks of the freehub body (wiggle the cassette) to make sure it's not coming loose.


    Happy riding,
    Micah
    ..sleep is good...

  54. #4154
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    I tightened that screw a bit and it locked down better. I'm still a little concerned I am missing those caps though. I emailed bikes direct and they said they can send me some, but never specified that I needed them.

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    I just got the Sturgis NX an everything is perfect, but want to do the pro-active thing to save this hub that seems to be prone to fail. Could someone explain to a noob what and how exactly to do to the Novatec hubs so they last?

    novatec didn't have instructions, but I hope these Salsa hub instructions are similar. I read the Park book and the zinn MTB maintenance book. But I never actually disassembled a cartridge hub (so please bare with me). Google gave me some videos showing failed hubs, but not actual solutions (besides replacement)

    1. I read here people put loktite on... where exactly?
    2. What do I need to do to the freehub ratchet? It seems to be louder than my other bikes.
    3. do I need to do anything to the font hub?
    4. did they by any chance improve the design? Mine is a 2018 and with all the hub problems in previous years I would hope they do something.

    Thanks in advance and I apologize if this is already answered or sounds stupid. I read through the entire thread before buying this bike but all I know for sure is I need to do something.

  56. #4156
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    Quote Originally Posted by HerrKaLeun View Post
    Could someone explain to a noob what and how exactly to do to the Novatec hubs so they last?
    Don't let anyone over 160lbs ride it up a steep hill.

  57. #4157
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    See that thingy circled in red? Don't let it come loose, and don't over-tighten it.
    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-screenshot_2015-05-16-13-33-43-1%5B1%5D.jpg

    -F
    It's never easier - you just go faster.

  58. #4158
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fleas View Post
    See that thingy circled in red? Don't let it come loose, and don't over-tighten it.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Screenshot_2015-05-16-13-33-43-1[1].jpg 
Views:	26 
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ID:	1157813

    -F
    thanks for the hint. I took the endcaps off and saw how it ticks. Need two 17 mm wrenches.
    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-dimpel.jpgMotobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-bushing.jpgMotobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-pawls.jpgMotobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-pawls2.jpgMotobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-seal.jpg
    That pawl thing has a dimple (circled red). I assume it has some function? Interesting there is some sleeve/bushing that is under the pawl mechanism (I pulled it out for the picture, but it normally is under the pawl)

    I put threadlocker on the endcap thread and tightened it. Tight so it felt tight, but not using some leverage. Not sure there would be a way to torque it. But with the wheel in the bike and the TA tight, I really don't see this coming loose.
    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-threadlocker.jpg
    Anything else I should do? I don't see how I would check tightness frequently without taking out the wheel. Would moving the wheel laterally tell me if it is loose (like you check for cup/cone hubs)?

  59. #4159
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    Quote Originally Posted by HerrKaLeun View Post
    Anything else I should do? I don't see how I would check tightness frequently without taking out the wheel. Would moving the wheel laterally tell me if it is loose (like you check for cup/cone hubs)?
    ..Make sure the cassette has no play in it.. wiggle it, not the wheel. If there is any play then tighten the hub more. That's where the damage is caused (freehub & hub).. by the time there is play at the wheel level the hub would already be fvct...

    Happy riding.

  60. #4160
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    "That pawl thing has a dimple (circled red). I assume it has some function? Interesting there is some sleeve/bushing that is under the pawl mechanism (I pulled it out for the picture, but it normally is under the pawl)"

    Yes, that dimple does serve a function and it relates to the spring. That little "ring" that holds the pawls in place is the retaining spring and it serves 2 purposes. 1) it holds the pawls in place and 2) it provides pressure keep the tips of the pawls up and out so they catch on to the ratchet ring. Now back to the dimple, you notice the retaining spring doesn't make a complete circle when installed. That's because the gap is taken up by the dimple. This helps you properly align the ring on to the freehub.
    2017 Diamondback Mason Pro
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  61. #4161
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    39
    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    Yes, that dimple does serve a function and it relates to the spring. That little "ring" that holds the pawls in place is the retaining spring and it serves 2 purposes. 1) it holds the pawls in place and 2) it provides pressure keep the tips of the pawls up and out so they catch on to the ratchet ring. Now back to the dimple, you notice the retaining spring doesn't make a complete circle when installed. That's because the gap is taken up by the dimple. This helps you properly align the ring on to the freehub.
    Thanks for explaining, that makes it clearer and I see how they can fail.

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