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  1. #4001
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    My RD hanger must be the 3rd gen (silver color) - this was my spare installed about 5 months ago (see above photo). So far so good. The stock one (black color) got bent.

    But i'll order a spare from BD just in case this one got bent again.

  2. #4002
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    Does anyone know which BD hanger I need to order for the Sturgis NX? #28 or #31?

  3. #4003
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    I bent 2 of Bikes Direct hangers from just laying the bike over. They are junk.

    I went with the #416 hanger and its been great:

    Derailleur Hanger #416

  4. #4004
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    Quote Originally Posted by KTMNealio View Post
    I bent 2 of Bikes Direct hangers from just laying the bike over. They are junk.

    I went with the #416 hanger and its been great:

    Derailleur Hanger #416

    thanks for the tip, I'll order it.

  5. #4005
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    I'm not saying that people have not had issue with the Stugis derailleur hangers but my Sturgis Bullet is over a year old now and while I did not ride it much in summer, it has taken numerous crashes in the snow. So far mine has stay perfectly okay.

    I wanted to give a alternative perspective that they may not all be junk. Perhaps I am just lucky? Anyway I do follow wise advice and I always carry a spare. Just in case.

  6. #4006
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    I have inquired with BD last 2 weeks on the Sturgis hanger and Karla told me to order hanger #28.

  7. #4007
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheNormsk View Post
    I'm not saying that people have not had issue with the Stugis derailleur hangers but my Sturgis Bullet is over a year old now and while I did not ride it much in summer, it has taken numerous crashes in the snow. So far mine has stay perfectly okay.

    I wanted to give a alternative perspective that they may not all be junk. Perhaps I am just lucky? Anyway I do follow wise advice and I always carry a spare. Just in case.

    Similar results here. I've been meaning to purchase a replacement hanger since I purchased the bike a couple years ago but just never got around to it. The Sturgis is my primary bike during the summer (haven't had many opportunities to ride in snow much) - anything gnarly, I'll usually take the Reign. But as with all my bikes, I always make sure to lay 'em down on the non-drive side. The Sturgis' derailleur does tend to stick out a lot more than other bikes (including my kid's Lurch fatbike)... so maybe we are the lucky few.

    2017 Chiner 29er (XC-race bike)
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  8. #4008
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheNormsk View Post
    I'm not saying that people have not had issue with the Stugis derailleur hangers but my Sturgis Bullet is over a year old now and while I did not ride it much in summer, it has taken numerous crashes in the snow. So far mine has stay perfectly okay.

    I wanted to give a alternative perspective that they may not all be junk. Perhaps I am just lucky? Anyway I do follow wise advice and I always carry a spare. Just in case.
    I think it's a bit funny that they link to a video on how to bend back a derailleur hanger, but upon doing so these instantly snap.

    I've had 3 bikes over the past 6 years and I've never snapped one, only bent and usually they can bend back into place well enough.

    Not complaining, I love the Sturgis.


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  9. #4009
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    Quote Originally Posted by KTMNealio View Post
    I bent 2 of Bikes Direct hangers from just laying the bike over. They are junk.

    I went with the #416 hanger and its been great:

    Derailleur Hanger #416
    I must have the updated hanger as I have 2 screws going in to mine.


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  10. #4010
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    Quote Originally Posted by basso4735 View Post
    I must have the updated hanger as I have 2 screws going in to mine.


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    You much have the newer frame that has 2 screws for the hanger but if you get the hanger with a single screw it will still work. Just not the other way around.
    2017 Diamondback Mason Pro
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  11. #4011
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    You much have the newer frame that has 2 screws for the hanger but if you get the hanger with a single screw it will still work. Just not the other way around.
    Thanks Tonyride1 - good to know, as I have a 1st and 2nd gen Sturgis/Nighttrain and was wondering about this exact thing with the multiple screw holes on gen 2.

    FYI - the hanger that came on my gen 2 night train is still going strong. On the first gen, it bent from derailleur slap while dropping off a curb.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  12. #4012
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    1x alternative

    It has been a while since my last post... Here is a recent photo of my Sturgis. I have added a rear rack for the winter and a section of inter tube over the dropper post to keep salt off of it (works awesome btw).

    Instead of going 1x10, I found the 22t to small. On the trails the gearing was always too low, I never used the bigger gears on the cassette, but the big ring didn't give me low enough gears on the technical stuff. My solution was to change the 22t ring to a 26t ring (I considered a 24t). This change to a 26t does have one initial drawback I had to grind down the front derailure to clear the teeth on the 26t when in the larger 36t position. It was not much grinding with a dremel at all as it barely touched the teeth.

    With the 26/36t crank the shifting is far smoother as the rings are much closer in size. The 26t ring makes the rear cassette range excellent for rougher trails, and keeping the 36t means I still have faster gearing for fast descents and smooth paths/trails.Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-moto.jpg
    2016 Motobecane Sturgis rigid
    2008 Yamaha WR250r http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=997633

  13. #4013
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    I have a little over 100 miles on the Sturgis since December and overall I'm still impressed.

    Last night I went out for a quick ride and wanted to check the sealant when I got back so I spun the rear wheel and could feel and hear a little clunking from the hub.

    I disassembled the hub and it's worth noting the non drive side axle cap was loose. I will grab some loctite for that today. Realistically how much should that cap be tightened?

    Anyway I got down to the freehub and everything looked ok....Plenty of thin oil/grease in there so I'm not sure if there is an issue or if the loose axle cap was allowing some play. I'll keep an eye on it though.


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  14. #4014
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    Quote Originally Posted by basso4735 View Post
    I have a little over 100 miles on the Sturgis since December and overall I'm still impressed.

    Last night I went out for a quick ride and wanted to check the sealant when I got back so I spun the rear wheel and could feel and hear a little clunking from the hub.

    I disassembled the hub and it's worth noting the non drive side axle cap was loose. I will grab some loctite for that today. Realistically how much should that cap be tightened?

    Anyway I got down to the freehub and everything looked ok....Plenty of thin oil/grease in there so I'm not sure if there is an issue or if the loose axle cap was allowing some play. I'll keep an eye on it though.


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    Common. Do not over tighten. Just so there's no wheel/hub play.

    I have found the bearings and free hub ratchet to be pretty good, but the outboard freehub bearing probably gets the worst of it. Check it next time your cogs are off.

    -F
    It's never easier - you just go faster.

  15. #4015
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fleas View Post
    Common. Do not over tighten. Just so there's no wheel/hub play.

    I have found the bearings and free hub ratchet to be pretty good, but the outboard freehub bearing probably gets the worst of it. Check it next time your cogs are off.

    -F
    Perfect, thanks.


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  16. #4016
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    ..check, check, check every ride. mine shelled out after a months of riding and have blue locktite on the new wheel and no issues. i'm paranoid that it will crap out so check it every ride -- a quick wiggle of the rear wheel to make sure it's not coming loose..

    my buddy had his rear hub shell out and opted for a new HOPE hub, damn it's a beauty. he sent back his old hub to novatec who will fix the old one once they get the parts in -- apparently there are not parts for these hubs right now (?too many failures)..

    stay atop the rear hub and hopefully it will provide you lots of fun, happy miles!...
    ..sleep is good...

  17. #4017
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    Quote Originally Posted by th1npower View Post
    ..check, check, check every ride. mine shelled out after a months of riding and have blue locktite on the new wheel and no issues. i'm paranoid that it will crap out so check it every ride -- a quick wiggle of the rear wheel to make sure it's not coming loose..

    my buddy had his rear hub shell out and opted for a new HOPE hub, damn it's a beauty. he sent back his old hub to novatec who will fix the old one once they get the parts in -- apparently there are not parts for these hubs right now (?too many failures)..

    stay atop the rear hub and hopefully it will provide you lots of fun, happy miles!...
    Looks like I was too late, ratchet ring is toast after today's ride. Hopefully BD will help but maybe it's worth it to upgrade?


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  18. #4018
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    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by basso4735 View Post
    Looks like I was too late, ratchet ring is toast after today's ride. Hopefully BD will help but maybe it's worth it to upgrade?


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    BIkesdirect does not have hubs/parts to replace, directed me to Novatec. Hopefully they will do something. Less than 2 months and 100 miles on the bike.

    If I didn't have another bike the wheel would be at the LBS already, but we'll see how Novatec handles.

    EDIT: Novatec is sending out a new hub body and freehub. Looks like I'm out the cost to have the hub swapped out but that shouldn't be too bad.




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    Last edited by basso4735; 02-06-2017 at 01:42 PM.

  19. #4019
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    Back in business, lbs put the new ratchet in over the weekend and the hub is back together. Novatec also sent a replacement 3 pawl freehub body and advised I should use it over the 4 pawl that it was originally spec'd with.


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  20. #4020
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    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread

    First ride, ratchet cracked AGAIN. Hub is a joke.


    This one looks like it broke in multiple places.

    Last edited by basso4735; 02-18-2017 at 06:43 PM.

  21. #4021
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    Quote Originally Posted by basso4735 View Post
    Ride last week, total skating rink. Hopefully the rain will have melted some of this.

    On top of the WRX



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    Nice rides!

  22. #4022
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    Quote Originally Posted by basso4735 View Post
    First ride, ratchet cracked AGAIN. Hub is a joke.


    This one looks like it broke in multiple places.

    I'm in the warranty period for both novatec fat wheels i have, and I'm NOT even going to pursue fixing them. Throwing good money (and time) after bad on these.

    edit - somehow managed to leave out the most important part of the statement...NOT.
    Last edited by watermonkey; 02-20-2017 at 02:42 PM.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  23. #4023
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    My experience at 14 months and about 1,200 miles on the Novatec hub. I weigh 160 and ride mostly singletrack on this bike.

    After a few hundred miles, the hub started snapping and clicking. I took the wheel off and noticed that the NDS spacer was loose. I took the spacer off and removed the axle and freehub body. My hub has a four pawl body and a press fit ratchet ring. I cleaned everything out (it was still clean) and inspected the ratchet ring. The was no scoring or sharpening. I used a dab of Shimano freehub grease under each pawl and rebuilt the hub. This whole process took maybe ten minutes.

    That was ~900 miles ago and I haven't had any problem since. I perodically check the NDS spacer to make sure it's not coming loose but it has stayed tight. I might put a dab of blue Loctite on it if it loosens again.

    Overall, I've had fairly bad results with Novatec hubs. Another set of Novatecs on another bike came new with metal filings in the freehub body that bound the freehub to the hub. That was annoying. Meanwhile I have a set of cup and cone 7800 Dura Ace hubs with 15K miles on them that still turn and freewheel like butter (albeit, I've overhauled them three times). Hubs are one item on a bike where you almost always get what you pay for.

  24. #4024
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    Novatec is sending another round of parts, this will be the last chance. After this I'm putting in a better hub.

    Just FYI, this was their response. Keep in mind the shop I had put the last ratchet in is highly reputable for my area and very experienced with fat bikes.

    "If the ratchet ring is not installed with the same amount of force evenly throughout then this is the outcome. We have seen it happen several times, I would also advise that your LBS put blue lock-tite in with the outermost part of the ratchet ring between the hub shell and ratchet ring."

  25. #4025
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    ..make sure you put a helping of Blue Loc-tite on the non-drive nut for the axle!

    Mine crapped out w/i the first mo or so if I recall. I sent the wheel back to Bikes Direct ($80 round trip - lame!) and then I put Blue Loc-tite on the axle nut and check almost every ride. *Knock on wood* - no issues!

    If it craps out again, I'll buy a HOPE or other hub. The time down and not riding means more to me than the cost of a quality part.


    Otherwise, I've been SUPER happy w/ the bike - it has been an awesome snow-filled winter in MT and now riding some of the skinny technical trails w/ the fatty. I'll probably ride it another month or two then overhaul - clean/grease and put to rest until next winter...

    Happy riding,
    Micah
    ..sleep is good...

  26. #4026
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    Quote Originally Posted by th1npower View Post
    ..make sure you put a helping of Blue Loc-tite on the non-drive nut for the axle!

    Mine crapped out w/i the first mo or so if I recall. I sent the wheel back to Bikes Direct ($80 round trip - lame!) and then I put Blue Loc-tite on the axle nut and check almost every ride. *Knock on wood* - no issues!

    If it craps out again, I'll buy a HOPE or other hub. The time down and not riding means more to me than the cost of a quality part.


    Otherwise, I've been SUPER happy w/ the bike - it has been an awesome snow-filled winter in MT and now riding some of the skinny technical trails w/ the fatty. I'll probably ride it another month or two then overhaul - clean/grease and put to rest until next winter...

    Happy riding,
    Micah
    I did loctite the end cap after the new part the first time and unfortunately it bit the dust.

    I am happy with the bike as a whole as well, but when things like this break and I'm waiting for parts while I could be riding is what sucks.


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  27. #4027
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    Saw a Sturgis last weekend at 24HOP from a light vendor at 24 hour town. Nice lights and a beautiful bike!

  28. #4028
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    2015 Sturgis Bullet

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-sturgis-resized-1.jpg

  29. #4029
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pack66 View Post
    Saw a Sturgis last weekend at 24HOP from a light vendor at 24 hour town. Nice lights and a beautiful bike!
    I'm struggling to untangle the meaning of this post... any help?

  30. #4030
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    Quote Originally Posted by hiro11 View Post
    I'm struggling to untangle the meaning of this post... any help?
    The way how I read it is apparently there's a 24-hour event at a place with a name that begins with the letter "P". So 24HOP is 24 hours of Pxxx. At that event there's a vendor that sells lights. I'm guessing the venue where vendors are gathered is called 24 Hour Town ("Downtown"). I'm assuming head lights for night riding is what that vendor is selling. So that vendor mounted the light(s) on a Sturgis to show how great it looks. Yes, a lot of assumptions I know but I let my imagination run wild sometimes.
    2017 Diamondback Mason Pro
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  31. #4031
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    Just took my Night Train Bullet out for first ride with studded tires. At one point I definitely had that "feels like I'm driving a tank" feel. Vee Rubber Snowshoe XL tires.

  32. #4032
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    Any one have recommendations for a frame bag for a medium Sturgis?

  33. #4033
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    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...TF8&psc=1&th=1
    Quote Originally Posted by kwgaines View Post
    Any one have recommendations for a frame bag for a medium Sturgis?
    This works for me and my Sturgis is a medium. I got the medium size bag. They also have a large bag. Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-fat-bike.jpg
    2017 Diamondback Mason Pro
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  34. #4034
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    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread

    Is the bottom bracket tool needed to service the bearings on the Sturgis? My cranks feel a bit rough so I wanted to take a look at the bearings and see what's going on.


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  35. #4035
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    Quote Originally Posted by basso4735 View Post
    First ride, ratchet cracked AGAIN. Hub is a joke.


    This one looks like it broke in multiple places.



    Every single person including myself has had these hubs fall apart. Over 100 now. The low price of these bikes is raised by poor quality hubs and BB.

    My rear hub lasted 56 miles. Replaced it with a hope one and no problem 2,000 miles later. BB lasted 260 miles, started clicking. It was toast inside. I took such special care when I first got it to clean and regreased all bearings and hubs because of horror stories I read after I ordered bike. Checked and rechecked to make sure everything was tighten correctly.

    Bikes direct ignored me and all emails till I called them out on forums, then they denied any wrong doing.

    In the end if you want a nice bike your not going to ride get this. If your going to ride it, just get the frame and fork, build it up without the super low quality heavy parts they sell you. A few people have not had many problems, but they have very little miles on the bike. Again, everyone I know has had issues after some time.
    Out riding, leave a message

  36. #4036
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    [QUOTE=OilcanRacer;

    In the end if you want a nice bike your not going to ride get this. If your going to ride it, just get the frame and fork, build it up without the super low quality heavy parts they sell you. A few people have not had many problems, but they have very little miles on the bike. Again, everyone I know has had issues after some time.[/QUOTE]

    I will say that my lbs was very aware of the Novatec hub issue, so that's not really a Bikesdirect blame IMO. I'm sure there are other manufacturers using the same hubs and facing the same issues.

    Frame+fork+wheelset+tires were enough to keep me happy on the price, just need to replace/upgrade as things break. Only problem is the downtime, which sucks.

    What did you replace the BB with?


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  37. #4037
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    Singlespeed tensioner?

    Has anyone converted their Sturgis to a SS? I'm in the process of doing so and ordered the Rennen Rollenlager tensioner, but it doesn't work with the current RD hanger. One, I'd need to drill the Rollenglager out just a bit to get the 12mm TA to fit thru, that isn't a big problem though. The bigger issue is that the RD hanger is quite large and would push the tensioner way out from the dropouts.

    Is anyone running the bike SS, and if so, how did you solve the tensioner issue? (Also, not interested in that ghetto solution one guy here did, a loop off the chainstay.)

    Thanks
    Crashing mountain bikes since 1990.

  38. #4038
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    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread

    Killed the third rear hub ratchet in as many rides, I'm done with the Novatec. I think I'll go with the DT Swiss Big Ride.


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  39. #4039
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    Novatec Rear Hub Bearings

    Quote Originally Posted by basso4735 View Post
    First ride, ratchet cracked AGAIN. Hub is a joke.


    This one looks like it broke in multiple places.

    For those of you guys who already replaced the bearings on your Novatec rear hubs - I understand that it comes with 5 bearings.

    So may I ask - if the correct number of bearings are 4 pcs of 6902 and 1 pc of 15267? Or 3 pcs of 6902 and 2 pcs of 15267?

    No problem with the front hubs as it is posted and clear to have 2pcs of 6902.

    Thanks in advance for your help.

  40. #4040
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    Quote Originally Posted by basso4735 View Post
    Killed the third rear hub ratchet in as many rides, I'm done with the Novatec. I think I'll go with the DT Swiss Big Ride.


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    Did you replace the hub 3 times or just the ratchet ring? is there some trick or issue installing it?... i'll knock on wood, have 3 of these hubs... all going well ,, 2 of which have been abused for 2 years straight in western ny winters...

  41. #4041
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    Quote Originally Posted by basso4735 View Post
    I will say that my lbs was very aware of the Novatec hub issue, so that's not really a Bikesdirect blame IMO. I'm sure there are other manufacturers using the same hubs and facing the same issues.
    The Novatec 190/197 hubs do kind of suck, but so do most 190/197 hubs. I think this is mainly due to the unique combination of factors with fatbikes: lots of grip, 22t chainrings, cold temperatures and very wide hub bodies. It's annoying that in this small market you really need to spend at least $400 on a rear hub to get one that's totally reliable. Really good 142 or Boost hubs are less than half of that price.

  42. #4042
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    Quote Originally Posted by twright205 View Post
    Did you replace the hub 3 times or just the ratchet ring? is there some trick or issue installing it?... i'll knock on wood, have 3 of these hubs... all going well ,, 2 of which have been abused for 2 years straight in western ny winters...
    2 ratchet ring and 2 freehub body replacements. Both at Novatec's guidance and done by a shop. Bike has 110 total miles on it.

    I'm a heavy guy at 200lbs and I ride hard, but this is the first rear hub I've ever killed, and 3 times to boot.

    Shop is ordering the DT Swiss 350 for me today.


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  43. #4043
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    I have a new Lurch, not one of these aluminum bikes, but it does have the same rubbish D202SB-QR-S4S Novatec rear hub. I have only had the bike since 12.24.16, and almost straight away I started hearing popping sounds out of the rear. Since this is a QR on a sliding dropout, I had been assuming that his was the cause of the noise. And I was lucky to get over 600 miles on the thing before it totally went FUBAR.

    But eventually the noise got worse and worse and then the hub started tugging at the chain. I took the thing apart to find what many of you guys are used to seeing, a ratchet ring broken in 6 places. But the freehub looked fine. Okay, obviously the problem, right?

    So Novatec sends me a replacement ratchet ring. Well, that is to say, Novatec sent me a replacement ring 4 days after promising it. Anyway, I eventually get the replacement, pulled out the old ring--which basically fell out, cleaned up some internal marring on the hub body, and use the bolt/washer method to effectively press in the new ring. Great!

    But then when I loaded the freehub back on, I noticed a lot of the same issues were still there--tons of noise and poor freewheeling action. Eventually, after a lot of haggling with Novatec, and a LOT of close hub inspection it became clear that the actual hub was ovalized, causing the ratchet ring to be out of round inside the hub!

    While going over all this, the Novatec rep asks me what kind of riding I've been doing. I explain that I'm doing both snow rides, and typical NE dry singletrack when it's available. So then he starts pontificating about how Novatec has been very clear to "Motobecane" about how these hubs are not meant for trail use! He explained that these hubs are intended for snow cover and groomed trails only!

    I'm not kidding, he said that. Anyway, he then asked me to send the whole wheel back so they can replace the hub under warranty. But why the hell would I possibly do that, if they don't think the hub will last under the type of riding I'm going to do? We'd just be having this same conversation again in a few weeks.

    Anyway, I told him thanks but no thanks. Then I ordered a Hope hub from Jenson. It'll be here this evening.
    __________________

  44. #4044
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    Quote Originally Posted by no one in particular View Post
    I have a new Lurch, not one of these aluminum bikes, but it does have the same rubbish D202SB-QR-S4S Novatec rear hub. I have only had the bike since 12.24.16, and almost straight away I started hearing popping sounds out of the rear. Since this is a QR on a sliding dropout, I had been assuming that his was the cause of the noise. And I was lucky to get over 600 miles on the thing before it totally went FUBAR.

    But eventually the noise got worse and worse and then the hub started tugging at the chain. I took the thing apart to find what many of you guys are used to seeing, a ratchet ring broken in 6 places. But the freehub looked fine. Okay, obviously the problem, right?

    So Novatec sends me a replacement ratchet ring. Well, that is to say, Novatec sent me a replacement ring 4 days after promising it. Anyway, I eventually get the replacement, pulled out the old ring--which basically fell out, cleaned up some internal marring on the hub body, and use the bolt/washer method to effectively press in the new ring. Great!

    But then when I loaded the freehub back on, I noticed a lot of the same issues were still there--tons of noise and poor freewheeling action. Eventually, after a lot of haggling with Novatec, and a LOT of close hub inspection it became clear that the actual hub was ovalized, causing the ratchet ring to be out of round inside the hub!

    While going over all this, the Novatec rep asks me what kind of riding I've been doing. I explain that I'm doing both snow rides, and typical NE dry singletrack when it's available. So then he starts pontificating about how Novatec has been very clear to "Motobecane" about how these hubs are not meant for trail use! He explained that these hubs are intended for snow cover and groomed trails only!

    I'm not kidding, he said that. Anyway, he then asked me to send the whole wheel back so they can replace the hub under warranty. But why the hell would I possibly do that, if they don't think the hub will last under the type of riding I'm going to do? We'd just be having this same conversation again in a few weeks.

    Anyway, I told him thanks but no thanks. Then I ordered a Hope hub from Jenson. It'll be here this evening.
    Interesting-the person I've been emailing at Novatec didn't mention anything like that.

    Don't other brands use these hubs as well? I thought Specialized used them, maybe they have stopped though.

    I believe you are correct that the hub becomes out of round and is the culprit of the multiple failures. Most likely that non drive side end cap loosens up, allows the freehub to destroy the ratchet and ovalize the shell. Good luck after that.



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  45. #4045
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    Quote Originally Posted by basso4735 View Post
    Interesting-the person I've been emailing at Novatec didn't mention anything like that.

    Don't other brands use these hubs as well? I thought Specialized used them, maybe they have stopped though.
    Joytech owns the Novatec brand. Joytech, Formula and Chosen seem to make most of the private label hubs so it seems likely that Joytech hubs are lurking under other brand names. I think Joytech is the largest hub maker in Taiwan. I've had a mixed experience with inexpensive Taiwanese hubs, some are bulletproof, other are totally unreliable. Other brands have similar problems. For example, Specialized has definitely had lots of issues with Fat Boy hubs in the past. IMO, rear hubs are one place not to skimp in a bike. The problem with fat bikes is that the market is so small that prices are ridiculous high for anything good.

  46. #4046
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    ..bugger to hear about the failures; all i/we want to do is ride!

    ..the issue as I found out from reading the Motobecane threads was the axle coming loose then the freehub "rounds out" the hub and destroys the ratchet ring. I'm not sure the hub is salvageable once this happens, which is probably why some have repeat failures.

    I went the "replace the ring route" 1x after my hub started popping, catching, and eventually the ring exploded. The 2nd ring didn't last days b/c of the damage to the hub body already done, I don't think they come damaged.

    I sent my wheel back to Motobecane and got a new one, 1st thing out of the box was to blue loc-tite the living hell out of the axle and make sure it's tight when put on and the wheel shows no free-play in the bike -- been wrenching on bikes a long time so know the "feel" of a loose hub from the old cup-cone days. After a year of intense abuse riding rocks, dirt, sand, mud, slush, etc I've been lucky to have no failure.

    It's pure BS that Novatec says these are for "Snow Only" use... trying to cover a shitty design w/ lots of failures, imho! Novatec told the same thing to my riding buddy, also on a Motobecane w/ the hub issues, and he didn't want the hassle of dealing w/ them so bought a Hope hub w/o any issues.. I'll probably do the same if/when my hub were to explode again.


    that said, loving the hell out of my Ti Night Train -- taking lots of abuse and keeps on rolling.


    tldr: if your ratachet explodes; replacing ring will only continue to have failures - must get new hub and loc-tite axle.


    happy riding...
    Micah
    ..sleep is good...

  47. #4047
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    Any thoughts on which companies are making top after market fat bike hubs? I saw I9 and hope make a fat bike hub, any other high end options?
    2011 khs dh300
    2015 rocky mountain thunderbolt msl 770
    2017 motobecane nighttrain express

  48. #4048
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    Quote Originally Posted by oobaa47 View Post
    Any thoughts on which companies are making top after market fat bike hubs? I saw I9 and hope make a fat bike hub, any other high end options?
    I thought the DT Swiss Big Ride was the go-to fatbike hub.

    -F
    It's never easier - you just go faster.

  49. #4049
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fleas View Post
    I thought the DT Swiss Big Ride was the go-to fatbike hub.

    -F
    My lbs recommended this one to me, but I'm sure there are more expensive options out there.


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  50. #4050
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    Does replacing the hub require totally breaking down the wheel and building it back up?

  51. #4051
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    Quote Originally Posted by justin70 View Post
    Does replacing the hub require totally breaking down the wheel and building it back up?
    Yup. You'll need to remove the spokes from the rim in order to get them off the hub. In order for you to remove the nipples that hold the spokes and then reinstall them you'll need access to the holes on the other side of the rim. In order to do that you'll need to remove the tire and rim tape.
    2017 Diamondback Mason Pro
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  52. #4052
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fleas View Post
    I know it's snow season, but I decided now was the time to pick up some 29+ wheels for my Sturgis. These are the Framed Pro-X 29+ for 150/197 thru axles. They are actually pretty light, but they came with heavy tubes (presta tubes, but rims drilled for Schraeder(???)). They are probably not good candidates for tubeless in any form, though - the rims are quite deep. They are 47mm wide and came with 3" Chronicle tires. I just mocked them up as it's snowing right now and I just swapped Bud & Lou to my fat wheels. I'll give them the real test in the Spring, unless I get a bug to take them to Ray's Indoor MTB Park (which has a high probability). They are nearly the exact same diameter as Bud or Lou, but the fatties squish a bit more while riding, so these ride slightly higher. The bike feels like I am supposed to ride farther with the 29+ mounted - like it just wants to go.
    btw - they could've made the chainstays ~1/2" or more shorter on these frames and still fit these no problem.

    One potential problem I see is that the derailleur is really exposed when you put narrower tires on such a wide rear end. Hoping for the best.

    Attachment 1110388

    -F
    Quote Originally Posted by Fleas View Post
    So I gave these new 29+ wheels a working over today. They roll really nice and freehub engagement is pretty good. They saved about 3# over the fat wheels and tires.

    BUT - there's always a "but" - For conditions in which I would use them, basically low-speed crawling on very rocky terrain, the fatbike with narrow wheels is not ideal. The chainring is wayyy out there on that 120mm bottom bracket and gets whacked often, as do the pedals. The derailleur is wayyyy out there - it survived.
    The wheels function just fine, and I climbed some crazy stuff easily, and enjoyed great steep braking traction and control. The front tire rotated slightly under braking so I'm going to have to glue it in with a little Stans just to make it stick.

    -F

    edit: more tire testing. 3-5" of snow was nice. Traction on off-camber stuff is positively superior. In places where I'm expecting the tire to slip sideways, it just climbs up. Cornering is similar. I think I can feel the tire slowing me down a little when I get over on those shoulder knobs, but that is price of crazy traction. Running 11-14psi, went as low as 8.
    I was expecting all the snow to melt, so I swapped to 29+. Then 2 days later we got 4-5" more snow. That meant it was time for more tire testing.

    The Chronicles were aired down to "slightly wrinkled". Conditions were light snow over frozen. I had decent traction in line with the tire for both propulsion and braking, but the front tire kept washing all over the place. It couldn't quite cut through to the base layer so it kept floating around on the turns. That took a lot of attention.
    So, like most tires of any size, if you can't get the Chronicle to bite into the base material of the riding surface, it doesn't work very well.
    But again, the tires worked well in rocks, mud, dry, no trail, sand (to a degree), ... You can feel them dragging on pavement, though.

    -F
    It's never easier - you just go faster.

  53. #4053
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fleas View Post
    I was expecting all the snow to melt, so I swapped to 29+. Then 2 days later we got 4-5" more snow. That meant it was time for more tire testing.

    The Chronicles were aired down to "slightly wrinkled". Conditions were light snow over frozen. I had decent traction in line with the tire for both propulsion and braking, but the front tire kept washing all over the place. It couldn't quite cut through to the base layer so it kept floating around on the turns. That took a lot of attention.
    So, like most tires of any size, if you can't get the Chronicle to bite into the base material of the riding surface, it doesn't work very well.
    But again, the tires worked well in rocks, mud, dry, no trail, sand (to a degree), ... You can feel them dragging on pavement, though.

    -F
    What wheel/tire combo are you running again? Is it the set that Bikesdirect.com is selling for $249?
    2017 Diamondback Mason Pro
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  54. #4054
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    Last edited by akacoke; 03-21-2017 at 12:16 PM.
    16 Trek Farley 5 W/2XL snowshoe
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  55. #4055
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    any one has the stock fork laying around wanna sell? prefer black one. will take other colors
    I have a brand new take off from a size small. It's black. Pm me if you are interested.
    Marin Bobcat Trail 29er - Trek Farley 8

  56. #4056
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    Just waiting for the lbs for that new hub...shot from last week.




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  57. #4057
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boo Bear View Post
    Fleas- I'm looking forward to hearing more about this, as I am thinking of getting a 29+ wheelset for my Sturgis as well. Can you put up a photo of the rear wheel showing how much space is back there when you have a chance?

    Did you consider the 29+ wheelset from BD? I know the hub is 190, but they're $250 and I think good candidates for tubeless.
    The problem with the BD wheels is the lousy Novatech rear hub. You cannot trust it not to fail like many other on this forum have experienced.
    Last edited by Allamuchy Joe; 03-20-2017 at 05:05 AM.
    2014 Giant Trance 27.5 1
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  58. #4058
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    What wheel/tire combo are you running again? Is it the set that Bikesdirect.com is selling for $249?
    Quote Originally Posted by Allamuchy Joe View Post
    The problem with the BD wheels is the lousy Novatech rear hub. You cannot trust it not to fail like many other on this forum have experienced.
    I've been able to keep my OEM Novatec rear hub going for 2 years now. It has required some vigilance and conscientious maintenance, though. Literally, even a few minutes of neglect could mean the difference between working and broken if it is loose or a bearing is contaminated. It's nothing like the maintenance intervals on any other "normal" bicycle component.

    The 29+ wheels are from The House. Framed Pro-X w/ 29x3 Chronicles and Pub Hubs. As soon as it dries out a bit I might be able to get mean with that rear Pub Hub. So far I haven't had enough traction to really test it on some hard climbs.
    The BD wheels had too skinny rims to be considered for plus duty IMO.

    -F
    It's never easier - you just go faster.

  59. #4059
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fleas View Post
    I've been able to keep my OEM Novatec rear hub going for 2 years now. It has required some vigilance and conscientious maintenance, though. Literally, even a few minutes of neglect could mean the difference between working and broken if it is loose or a bearing is contaminated. It's nothing like the maintenance intervals on any other "normal" bicycle component.

    The 29+ wheels are from The House. Framed Pro-X w/ 29x3 Chronicles and Pub Hubs. As soon as it dries out a bit I might be able to get mean with that rear Pub Hub. So far I haven't had enough traction to really test it on some hard climbs.
    The BD wheels had too skinny rims to be considered for plus duty IMO.

    -F
    I'd agree with Flea there.... the BD 29+ wheelset, the rims are a bit narrow to give you the real benefit of plus, I used them a few times last Summer, and then got some velocity blunts... much better. however if you are going with the 29+ 3 inch tires which usually only hit a real world 2.8... you probably won't have an issue..

    I have had a novetec hub on my fatbike for over 30 months.very abused during those months..... it finally gave up the ghost.. .I have two more wheelsets with them,, no issues. Novetec just sent out a replacement rachcet ring and freehub assembly... so time will tell if this solution works or not. I know someone on here hasn't had a good experience with trying this route. I'll report back.

  60. #4060
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    I had a very-easy time last week repairing my Novatec D202SB with this: Wheel Parts-PAWLS and SPRING

  61. #4061
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    Quote Originally Posted by thomcom View Post
    I had a very-easy time last week repairing my Novatec D202SB with this: Wheel Parts-PAWLS and SPRING
    The ratchet ring broke on mine, which required me to take the tire off, ship the wheel to CA for replacement. Novatech put a new hub on the wheel and shipped it back. The process takes 2-3 weeks.

    I got it fixed once after I heard the "pop" and I saw the racket ring was busted. That was last year -- this year I heard another "pop", so I just upgraded it to a Hope hub and didn't look back. It just got to the point where I didn't trust the hub and it affected the way I rode (not powering into climbs, not giving that extra boost at the top of hills, etc) so I replaced it.
    2014 Giant Trance 27.5 1
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  62. #4062
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    I'm about to put red loctite on mine. I figure for a $150 wheel with a 90% of catastrophic hub failure in the next six months, why not? This way maybe I'll get many more years out of it.

  63. #4063
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    Yessssss




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  64. #4064
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    Has anyone replaced or serviced the bottom bracket bearings? Would like to have some spares if I can't bring the current ones back to life.


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  65. #4065
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    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GQV9WRE...7GWJIMCD&psc=1

    Should work so long as it is the 24mm spindle
    2016 Motobecane Sturgis rigid
    2008 Yamaha WR250r http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=997633

  66. #4066
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    Custom Sturgis Bullet

    Here's my bike - finally have it where I want it.
    I think it's a 2015 (bought it slightly used).
    Frame - Motobecane Sturgis Bullet
    120mm Bluto
    Everything else I stripped off and built up custom...made the ride so much nicer.

    I re-used the hubs and laced them to Alex Blizzerk 90mm tubeless rims. Found Red Duck Tape that matched the frame to line the rim, put a layer of clear packing tape to firm it up, then some orange seal (thin) tubeless tape for good measure.

    Tires - Surly Bud/Lou tubeless with Orange Seal Endurance formula...sealant seems to be lasting forever (tho they have a cold formula). The tires do measure about 4.8 on these rims They clear the frame just fine. They do clear the fork, but in deep snow I have a slight hump in the rim that causes tire rub every rotation. I know it's just ice, but maybe having a professional true the rim up will help since I never fine tuned it. I've never had issues with mud rubbing.

    The Sammox cranks were so wide it felt like I was riding a horse...I suppose that's the nature of 190mm rear spacing. I took the advice of another poster on this board and swapped to the following crank:
    Race Face Cinch. I got the 170 spacing version instead of 190. I went with 170 length. Here is the trick to make it work: You'll need to do a 1x Raceface direct mount chainring and flip it around so that the teeth are out closer to your pedal, rather than toward the frame. This creates a perfect chainline, and allows the chain to clear larger tires with a narrower Q-factor.
    I really do feel more comfortable pedaling this bike now. I look forward to riding it, rather than just having it around when the ground is softer.
    Note - I'm still using the stock Bottom Bracket that came with the bike.

    Drivetrain - I went with Shimano XT 1x11. 11-46 cassette, 26 tooth chainring. I know it sounds crazy, but it's nice for snow and I rarely hit top gear off-road, tho I like to spin.

    Seatpost - Thudbuster LT. I had to run a shim since I had a 27.2 version. As long as you use carbon prep instead of grease it stays in place. Tho I enjoy a dropper on my full squish, this really does help the fatty feel more like a full suspension.

    Brakes - Avid BB7. Tried & True. Adjustable on the trail.

    70mm Nashbar stem, & Kore 730mm bar.

    I routed the rear shift cable through the front derailleur opening, and put the brake cable through the rear derailleur opening to go all internal (brake typically mounds outside on this frame).

    I don't have a super accurate scale but I think my fish scale was showing about 35 lbs.

    If anybody wants my sammox crank with 2x SRAM chainrings (75 miles) - I'll sell it on the cheap.

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-sturgis.jpg

  67. #4067
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    Hey all.

    My 16 year old kid broke the rear through axle on his Sturgis. (minor car v bike incident) He took it to the local bike shop (Trek) and they said they didn't have one. Told him to call the 800 number that came with the bike.

    Two questions:

    1. Are all 197 through axles the same?

    2. If not, anyone have a source, link etc?

    Thanks
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

    16' Trek 8.4 DS
    16' Farley 7
    and I'm OK admitting..
    16' Sturgis

    Minneapolis MN

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  69. #4069
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff_G View Post
    Hey all.

    My 16 year old kid broke the rear through axle on his Sturgis. (minor car v bike incident)
    I'm curious how it broke the axle? I don't get hit by cars a lot, but I do send my Sturgis and 260lbs of dude through the air a lot.

  70. #4070
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    I like BD bikes but their website sucks. I spent 15 minutes trying to find "parts" and failed. Thanks twright205.

    Now I'm going to call the bike shop my kid went to (Where I've spent about $5,000 in the last two years) and ask if they have a compatible through axle with those dimensions. (M12x1.75x229mm RR197)

    KTMNealio,

    Not sure what exactly happened but the the "flip lever" thingy snapped off. The axle itself is still in one piece and functioning.
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

    16' Trek 8.4 DS
    16' Farley 7
    and I'm OK admitting..
    16' Sturgis

    Minneapolis MN

  71. #4071
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    Quote Originally Posted by basso4735 View Post
    Has anyone replaced or serviced the bottom bracket bearings? Would like to have some spares if I can't bring the current ones back to life.
    My BB is creaking and crackling like crazy. I'm wondering if they stock Raceface BB isn't made for fat guys hucking the fat bikes..?

  72. #4072
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff_G View Post
    Not sure what exactly happened but the the "flip lever" thingy snapped off. The axle itself is still in one piece and functioning.

    ..if you're good w/ tools / handy this is an easy fix. it can happen on any thru-axle.


    1. go to hardware store and get the smallest EZ-Out.
    2. use very small drill bit (some EZ-Out sets come w/ it) to drill the broken bolt centrally.
    3. use easy out to get the broken part out.
    4. go to hardware store and match up size / thread pattern - i think it's a 3 mm, but mate up to make sure. pick up a couple extras for spares.
    5. replace w/ new bolt and make sure you don't over tighten. (super interesting, torque specs relate to the amount of stretch a bolt can handle before it snaps. i'm sure an engineer can explain it better, but we're actually stretching those lil' bolts when we tighten them down too much).


    please contact me w/ any questions, concerns, or pics.. i've had to do this on several thru-axles in the past.

    from their website:
    Derailleur Hangers And Thru-Axles for Bicycles, Mountain Bikes, Road Bikes, Hybrid, Comfort and More Save Up to 60% Off New Bikes

    You want this one if going to replace:
    Bottom row #3 from the LEFT.

    Fat Bike
    Rear Thru-Axles Available
    Pic Coming Soon
    Fit RR AL/Ti Sturgis/Night
    M12x1.75x229mm RR197

    197mmFatBike ThruAxle


    Happy riding,
    Micah
    ..sleep is good...

  73. #4073
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    Thanks for all the info. The lever actually snapped so no fixing it. $50 for that thru axle. As inexpensive as these bikes are I may as well by a whole bike for spare parts.

    That's actually not such a bad idea I could use the spare set of rims.
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

    16' Trek 8.4 DS
    16' Farley 7
    and I'm OK admitting..
    16' Sturgis

    Minneapolis MN

  74. #4074
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    Quote Originally Posted by KTMNealio View Post
    My BB is creaking and crackling like crazy. I'm wondering if they stock Raceface BB isn't made for fat guys hucking the fat bikes..?
    Mine sure isn't. 900 miles of 210 lb rider has done it in. How long are these lasting for everyone else?

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  75. #4075
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    Quote Originally Posted by KTMNealio View Post
    My BB is creaking and crackling like crazy. I'm wondering if they stock Raceface BB isn't made for fat guys hucking the fat bikes..?
    Quote Originally Posted by lalahg View Post
    Mine sure isn't. 900 miles of 210 lb rider has done it in. How long are these lasting for everyone else?

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    Wayyyy back in this thread, ~3 mos. after I got my Sturgis, I noticed the bottom bracket was binding a little. I took it apart and removed the dust covers from the bearings and found rust. I cleaned them, packed them with grease, wiped the inside of the bottom bracket with grease, re-assembled with more grease, and now it is running very well. And it has been ridden completely submerged in creeks and lakes with sand and sediment stirring in the water. I've ridden on slushy, salty roads, muddy farm tracks, and sandy beaches. The grease keeps the junk out.
    BTW - my frame holds probably 8 oz. of water that needs to be drained after really wet rides.

    -F
    It's never easier - you just go faster.

  76. #4076
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    Hey All,

    My buddy is looking for a bike. He's an old school hard core biker looking to get back into the game. He is leaning towards a fat bike because he would like to ride in the winter.

    He's a bit particular and has high standards. But a low budget by fat bike standards.

    He was looking at Framed bikes and I mentioned he should look at BD.

    Initial thoughts he has:

    1. Medium, aluminum frame
    2. 1x
    3. Tubeless ready
    4. 4 to 4.8 fast rolling tire (would likely have a 4 and 4.8 for summer and winter)
    5. Front suspension
    6. $1,500 or so budget

    I thought the Sturgis Bullet or Night Train Bullet Would fit the bill. Even though they are both 2x the Night train has an 11 speed cassette which would be ideal for a 1x conversion.

    Anyone unhappy with a 1x10 conversion on the Sturgis?

    Sturgis is only available white which he must not be a fan of and the Night Train is not available in 17.5"

    Does BD give any info on restocking if you call them?

    Any other thoughts?
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

    16' Trek 8.4 DS
    16' Farley 7
    and I'm OK admitting..
    16' Sturgis

    Minneapolis MN

  77. #4077
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fleas View Post
    Wayyyy back in this thread, ~3 mos. after I got my Sturgis, I noticed the bottom bracket was binding a little. I took it apart and removed the dust covers from the bearings and found rust. I cleaned them, packed them with grease, wiped the inside of the bottom bracket with grease, re-assembled with more grease, and now it is running very well. And it has been ridden completely submerged in creeks and lakes with sand and sediment stirring in the water. I've ridden on slushy, salty roads, muddy farm tracks, and sandy beaches. The grease keeps the junk out.
    BTW - my frame holds probably 8 oz. of water that needs to be drained after really wet rides.

    -F
    My problem is a single loud click on each application of high torque on each down stroke both left and right. I've got a wrench and a rebuild kit in the mail.

  78. #4078
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    ...
    Marin Bobcat Trail 29er - Trek Farley 8

  79. #4079
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff_G View Post
    Hey All,

    My buddy is looking for a bike. He's an old school hard core biker looking to get back into the game. He is leaning towards a fat bike because he would like to ride in the winter.

    He's a bit particular and has high standards. But a low budget by fat bike standards.

    He was looking at Framed bikes and I mentioned he should look at BD.

    Initial thoughts he has:

    1. Medium, aluminum frame
    2. 1x
    3. Tubeless ready
    4. 4 to 4.8 fast rolling tire (would likely have a 4 and 4.8 for summer and winter)
    5. Front suspension
    6. $1,500 or so budget

    I thought the Sturgis Bullet or Night Train Bullet Would fit the bill. Even though they are both 2x the Night train has an 11 speed cassette which would be ideal for a 1x conversion.

    Anyone unhappy with a 1x10 conversion on the Sturgis?

    Sturgis is only available white which he must not be a fan of and the Night Train is not available in 17.5"

    Does BD give any info on restocking if you call them?

    Any other thoughts?
    Go with the Sturgis NX. Add a bluto or carbon fork later.
    Marin Bobcat Trail 29er - Trek Farley 8

  80. #4080
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    I just put together a Sturgis NX 1x11 for a guy. That's a nice bike and a few notable upgrades over my kids Sturgis.

    Tires and tubes are much nicer. The tubes and rim strips were about half (guessing, exaggerating) the weight. The front through axle seems to not have the spacers loose like my kids bike.

    The drive train right out of the box shifted like fricken butter.

    I suggested my buddy get the same bike and put a Mastadon on it. Be in it for about $1,700.
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

    16' Trek 8.4 DS
    16' Farley 7
    and I'm OK admitting..
    16' Sturgis

    Minneapolis MN

  81. #4081
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    I popped open the bottom bracket last night on my Sturgis. Drive side was a nightmare! Full of rust and junk. Non drive side looked clean, but was not smooth at all.

    I flushed everything and repacked with fresh grease but it didn't help nearly enough. Will definitely need to replace the BB soon.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  82. #4082
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    Hi all, first post. I've been drooling over fat bikes for a while now, and I'm leaning towards the Sturgis NX. I currently own a Trek 7.3FX, which I like, but it has obvious terrain limitations. So I'm thinking a fat bike for sheer fun factor, and any time the Trek won't cut it (rough terrain, snow, etc). I'll probably look for some entry-level trails too.

    So, two questions: (1) is this an appropriate "starter" fat bike? I don't want to go too cheap and get discouraged by something that's essentially disposable. But at my level, I doubt I'll notice the difference between decent entry-level and high-end. I do like the idea of 1x gearing. My Trek is 3x9, and it's really too much. I also want something that can support 5" tires. And I want to learn bicycle maintenance, so going Internet direct seems a good way to get my hands dirty.

    (2) Assuming everyone agrees the Sturgis NX is a good match for me, what about sizing? Without shoes I'm 5'10" and 32" inch inseam (i.e. long legs/short torso). Add an inch with shoes. Per the bikesdirect sizing chart, that puts me in the 17.5/medium. My only hesitation is that my Trek 7.3 is a 20inch/large, and I find it pretty comfortable. Thoughts?

    Thanks!

  83. #4083
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    Quote Originally Posted by Casual_Rider View Post
    Hi all, first post. I've been drooling over fat bikes for a while now, and I'm leaning towards the Sturgis NX.
    The Sturgis NX is definitely a capable fat bike and it is definitely NOT disposable with pretty competent components. As for size, I would say a Large would fit you better than a Medium given the fit guide for stand over height. However, a friend of mine who is 5'10" but with 30" inseam rides a Medium. So I guess I'm no help in the sizing department but I'm sure you'll be happy with the Sturgis NX for a long time.
    2017 Diamondback Mason Pro
    2015 Motobecane Sturgis Bullet
    2015 Giant AnyRoad 1
    2016 Diamondback Catch 2

  84. #4084
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    I'm 5'11" and ride the 17.5 size. I ride in the snow so stand over height can be an issue on the next size up, but YMMV.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  85. #4085
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    Quote Originally Posted by basso4735 View Post
    I'm 5'11" and ride the 17.5 size. I ride in the snow so stand over height can be an issue on the next size up, but YMMV.


    Sent from my iPhone using And Tapatalk
    Tony ride..

    ..I agree, I'm almost 6' with 32" inseam and love the medium! It's very manageable size wise in the snow.. especially a dismount into several inches of snow (smaller frame = ball saver).

    Also, I rip the dirt with mine.. the fat tires climb everything - rock, dirt, loose gravel. No skinny tire slip/spin outs. Definitely go for something that can take up to 5" tires.

    It's really an all year bike.. absolute blast! Hope you'll love it too!...

    Happy riding,
    Micah

  86. #4086
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    Quote Originally Posted by Casual_Rider View Post
    Hi all, first post. I've been drooling over fat bikes for a while now, and I'm leaning towards the Sturgis NX. I currently own a Trek 7.3FX, which I like, but it has obvious terrain limitations. So I'm thinking a fat bike for sheer fun factor, and any time the Trek won't cut it (rough terrain, snow, etc). I'll probably look for some entry-level trails too.

    So, two questions: (1) is this an appropriate "starter" fat bike? I don't want to go too cheap and get discouraged by something that's essentially disposable. But at my level, I doubt I'll notice the difference between decent entry-level and high-end. I do like the idea of 1x gearing. My Trek is 3x9, and it's really too much. I also want something that can support 5" tires. And I want to learn bicycle maintenance, so going Internet direct seems a good way to get my hands dirty.

    (2) Assuming everyone agrees the Sturgis NX is a good match for me, what about sizing? Without shoes I'm 5'10" and 32" inch inseam (i.e. long legs/short torso). Add an inch with shoes. Per the bikesdirect sizing chart, that puts me in the 17.5/medium. My only hesitation is that my Trek 7.3 is a 20inch/large, and I find it pretty comfortable. Thoughts?

    Thanks!
    I'm 5'10", wear 32 inseam pants, ride a medium Night Train Bullet, perfect size. Recommend against the large.

  87. #4087
    Professional Crastinator
    Reputation: Fleas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Casual_Rider View Post
    Hi all, first post. I've been drooling over fat bikes for a while now, and I'm leaning towards the Sturgis NX. I currently own a Trek 7.3FX, which I like, but it has obvious terrain limitations. So I'm thinking a fat bike for sheer fun factor, and any time the Trek won't cut it (rough terrain, snow, etc). I'll probably look for some entry-level trails too.

    So, two questions: (1) is this an appropriate "starter" fat bike? I don't want to go too cheap and get discouraged by something that's essentially disposable. But at my level, I doubt I'll notice the difference between decent entry-level and high-end. I do like the idea of 1x gearing. My Trek is 3x9, and it's really too much. I also want something that can support 5" tires. And I want to learn bicycle maintenance, so going Internet direct seems a good way to get my hands dirty.

    (2) Assuming everyone agrees the Sturgis NX is a good match for me, what about sizing? Without shoes I'm 5'10" and 32" inch inseam (i.e. long legs/short torso). Add an inch with shoes. Per the bikesdirect sizing chart, that puts me in the 17.5/medium. My only hesitation is that my Trek 7.3 is a 20inch/large, and I find it pretty comfortable. Thoughts?

    Thanks!
    I'm 6'-3" and ride the large. I think the med. would fit you best. The large is a pretty big bike. I even shortened the stem a little (10mm?) to get a little more upright for snow riding.

    -F
    It's never easier - you just go faster.

  88. #4088
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    Quote Originally Posted by basso4735 View Post
    .. Will definitely need to replace the BB soon.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    If you just do bearings, please inform on where you got 'em.
    Thanks!

    -F
    It's never easier - you just go faster.

  89. #4089
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fleas View Post
    If you just do bearings, please inform on where you got 'em.
    Thanks!

    -F
    Are they #6806s?

  90. #4090
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    Xt/xtr bb works fine, 24mm.

  91. #4091
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    New Sturgis NX 17.5 owner

    Just got my first fat bike on Friday. It will be used as my trail bike and beach cruising bike in Florida. Got out for a 15 mile trail ride Saturday and had a blast, cant wait to get it on the beach once I get it set up tubeless.

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-20170519_173809.jpg

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-20170519_183348.jpg

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-20170520_082415-1-.jpg

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-20170520_083611.jpg

  92. #4092
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    Hey Chipwright. Where are you in Florida?
    My wife and I live on the east side of Orlando and hit Snowhill road during the week. On weekends we try to hit Santos and Alafia. I ride a Night Train NX and my wife rides a Boris.

  93. #4093
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    Been fat fishing the St. Johns River, East of Orlando, FL.

    https://flic.kr/p/SdcrxU
    https://flic.kr/p/Tr7xxq
    https://flic.kr/p/TuGySH
    https://flic.kr/p/SUGQvL
    Last edited by Mr. Long; 4 Weeks Ago at 07:43 AM. Reason: ...

  94. #4094
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    I'm down in Stuart, have been riding Halpatiokee park and the beach on Jupiter island so far. Need to make something up to carry a few rods to fish the beach, pompano have been everywhere this weekend.

  95. #4095
    Flying Sasquatch
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff_G View Post
    I just put together a Sturgis NX 1x11 for a guy. That's a nice bike and a
    I suggested my buddy get the same bike and put a Mastadon on it. Be in it for about $1,700.
    I'm running that setup and so far I'm pretty happy. I had to upgrade the rear hub to a DT swiss though.

  96. #4096
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    Night Train Bullet bottom bracket question

    Greetings everyone,

    I've had my NTB Ti for about 6 months now and have been pretty happy with it. Unfortunately, about a month ago it developed a 'tick' sound when i stand on it or crank pretty hard in the 3 or 9-oclock position. I was pretty sure it was the BB, and sure enough it didn't look too pretty when I pulled it out (see attached pictures). The outer shells are cracking where they mate up with the sleeve. Does anyone have any idea what would cause this failure? Over torquing during installation? Perhaps the Ti frame flexes too much in this area? I'm 160 lbs, so I kind of doubt that this is the issue.

    Meanwhile, bikesdirect requires that I go into a LBS and they have to handle a warranty claim thru Race Face. I'm not sure how well that's going to go... and based on my experience so far, I'm not sure I want another Race Face part.

    Thanks in advance for any input!

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-img_20170608_174324.jpgMotobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-img_20170608_174346.jpgMotobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-img_20170608_174715.jpgMotobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-img_20170608_174728.jpg

  97. #4097
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    It's hard to visualize a mechanism by which that damage could occur while installed in the bike.

  98. #4098
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    Quote Originally Posted by aflage View Post
    I'm not sure how well that's going to go... and based on my experience so far, I'm not sure I want another Race Face part.
    I have the older version of the NTB, and my bottom bracket creaks annoyingly. I have pulled it apart, cleaned, and greased the bearings, but I would like to replace them.

    I was all set to get the newer spec RaceFace bearings, but I am not sure they are optimal for wet environments.

    So I also would like to replace, but I am not sure which bearings to use.

    Could anyone recommend us a better unit?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  99. #4099
    Live Free & Ride
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    Headset Question:

    This is for a 2015 NTB. I need to replace the original headset. I replaced the Bluto fork with a rigid carbon. I put it all together but I noticed some binding in the headset. I am hoping to remedy this with a new one. Is this just a simple tapered HS for this frame/fork combo, and will this one work?....

    Brand: FSA
    - Model: Orbit C-40
    - Color: Black (show as photo)
    - QTY: 1 SET (With top cap and starnut), the same pictures
    - Stack Height 8+0.8=8.8mm
    - Weight - 73 g (without top cap and starnut)

    —1-1/8in Upper,1.5in Bottom
    —45 degrees/ 45 degrees ACB Upper
    —1.5in 36 degrees/ 45 degrees ACB Lower (compatible with carbon or alloy headtubes)
    —For tapered 46mm/56mm OD headtube (= 42mm/52mm ID headtube)
    —For tapered fork steerer 1.5in to 1-1/8in
    —Alloy top cover
    —Upper: Campy Angular Contact Bearings (black seal)
    —Lower: 1.5in 36 degrees/45 degrees Angular Contact Bearings
    14 GT Zaskar 9r
    15 Moto Night Train
    08 BMC Trailfox
    06 Cannondale Rush
    99 GT XCR
    93 Raleigh MT 200

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