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  1. #401
    PBR
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    SJbikefanatic can you point me in the direction of where to get disc brakes like yours? Thanks

  2. #402
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    holy smokes, well done!
    Mongoose product development

  3. #403
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    SJbikefanatic

    The bike looks fantastic but what was the motivation for using this frame over everything else, with the obvious price of the rest of your build there must be some real reason?
    Today I will do what others won't, so tomorrow I can do what others can't

  4. #404
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    Quote Originally Posted by PBR View Post
    SJbikefanatic can you point me in the direction of where to get disc brakes like yours? Thanks
    PBR, it's just regular Formula R1 brakes & rotors which I had laying around in my parts bin. The rear caliper bracket is from ebay. Thanks.

  5. #405
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    Quote Originally Posted by TitanofChaos View Post
    SJbikefanatic

    The bike looks fantastic but what was the motivation for using this frame over everything else, with the obvious price of the rest of your build there must be some real reason?
    TitanofChaos, thank you for the compliment. I'm really not sure what the motivation was or reason, I think I just felt challenged that this cheap bike can be modified/upgraded and can get a shot of being a legit fat bike. I know this frame is not the ideal frame but I will be stripping this down once I get a better one.

  6. #406
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    Quote Originally Posted by skota23 View Post
    holy smokes, well done!
    Thank you sir!

  7. #407
    gran jefe
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    can't imagine why you got a timeout...

  8. #408
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    This pic made me decide to buy one - which tires?

    Love your bike! This pic made me decide to pull the trigger. Which Devist8er tire model do you have there?

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Hannoonen View Post
    Attachment 792007
    Drilled the rims (my first time doing this) and put on some Devist8er tires with regular old 26x2.35 tubes.

  9. #409
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    Looks nice, I was thinking about drilling my wheels, but the rim seam looks like it might keep from cutting in one section.. Will it damage or weaken the rim if the seam is cut through, I'm going to guess yes, but since i've never done this before I thought i would ask.

  10. #410
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    Quote Originally Posted by SJbikefanatic View Post
    Holy crap. Some people have more time/money than sense.

  11. #411
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    Quote Originally Posted by jay.schubert View Post
    Love your bike! This pic made me decide to pull the trigger. Which Devist8er tire model do you have there?
    Thanks! Those tires are the UL type by Vee Rubber.

  12. #412
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    Hi
    Newbie here!
    Just got my beast delivered and built it up! ( had to grease up everything as it was dry as hell!
    It seems a little high on gearing, what is the everyone else using on stock hub and what would anyone advise??
    Also any ideas or suggestions on better looking bars or headstock( kind of want to keep the motocross styling)
    Thanks
    Last edited by twistedattitude; 07-31-2013 at 11:53 PM.

  13. #413
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    Deleted
    Last edited by 1SPDBING; 03-15-2014 at 07:16 AM.

  14. #414
    gran jefe
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    is the original seat post 28.6 also?

    looks great. I am headed in the same direction with mine.

  15. #415
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    Last edited by 1SPDBING; 03-15-2014 at 07:17 AM.

  16. #416
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    Mongoose Beast modifications

    Wow all these mods make my beast look tame..... Not! Amazing work unleashing this beast.
    Mongoose Beast modifications-imageuploadedbytapatalk1375451199.029744.jpgMongoose Beast modifications-imageuploadedbytapatalk1375451227.198758.jpg
    2013 mongoose Fat bike
    2012 Moonlander.

    http://undergroundvelo.proboards.com/

  17. #417
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    Mongoose Beast modifications

    the beast in The wild. Mongoose Beast modifications-imageuploadedbytapatalk1375451712.720291.jpg
    2013 mongoose Fat bike
    2012 Moonlander.

    http://undergroundvelo.proboards.com/

  18. #418
    gran jefe
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    yeah, the original stock seat post is pretty wobbly.
    Last edited by Bill in Houston; 08-02-2013 at 07:09 PM.

  19. #419
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    Quote Originally Posted by SJbikefanatic View Post
    Haha, hooooooly shit! This bike is proof that any build is possible with the right tools, time, and attitude.

  20. #420
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    Quote Originally Posted by salt_fish View Post
    Haha, hooooooly shit! This bike is proof that any build is possible with the right tools, time, and attitude.
    And money...
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  21. #421
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    Chainring bolts and spacer

    Hey... What type and length chainring bolts and spacers did you use, I installed a Redline crack that came off my MonoCog and the chainline is almost a full 10mm off compared to 73-74mm the orginal crank sits at.

  22. #422
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    Got my on sale red beast today. Sadly, the rear wheel had a major flattened section on the rim so the tire wasn't seating properly. And a couple of big dings in the downtube. The box didn't look too bad so I'm not sure the damage was in transit.
    Seeing if walmart can get me another one by next week as I wanted this for burning man.
    All the bearings feel too tight like everyone else has reported....

  23. #423
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    Tallgoose
    owner/raconteur at fat-bike.com

  24. #424
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    Bravo!
    Mongoose product development

  25. #425
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    How many spokes do the beast wheels have? Mine will be here later this week, and I have some Deore hubs that I want to widen.

    I have a feeling the Beast is 36 spoke, and my hubs are 32.

    And I doubt there is a good way to use a 36 hole rim with a 32 hole hub.

  26. #426
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    Definitely 36.

  27. #427
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    Ah Bummer!

    I guess im on the lookout for some used 36hole hubs.

  28. #428
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    Its a fun bike - you will enjoy!

  29. #429
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    Ya Im sure! I set one up for a buddy last week. He ordered 2 more for his boys and I ordered 1 too.

    I have a ton of extra parts, so I want to make mine into a legit MTB. Plans are 1x9 drivetrain with disc brakes. And I was hoping to be sub 35lbs and under $500 total investment...

  30. #430
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    Has anyone tried the extra long V brakes at Choppers US? I wonder if they would clear the Beasts tires?

  31. #431
    gran jefe
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    i haven't seen anyone try those. i've seen people use cantis, and there was a guy who welded his own long-armed v-brakes.

  32. #432
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    I made some custom cranks tonight.

    I started with a set of cranks from a cruiser I had. Aluminum arms with a stamped steel chainring. Using a hole saw, I cut the chainring off so that only the inner 1 1/2 inches was left. Then I took a cog, and drilled it so that I could bolt a 22t chainring to it. Next I ground the teeth off of the cog so that it was basically round. I then welded the cog to the cutdown stamped chainring. This allowed me to bolt the 22t ring where the large ring would be on a standard MTB crankset.

    Im going to use a 16t cog in the back. This will give me roughly the same gearing as the 32/23 my buddy has on his. He loves it. Plus the 22 front with an 11t cog will give me the original ratio.

    Will these cranks last? Who knows, but they were fun to make and saved me 1lb 6.2oz. The new cog is half the weight of the old one, plus it will let me cut the chain shorter.


    Here are some pics:

    Mongoose Beast modifications-5eef2339-10f5-462e-bc5c-58847c299f31-12042-00000dcf109c2002_zpsb61d88e1.jpg

    Mongoose Beast modifications-4dda65fc-eba9-4fac-9891-a1123b4a18fe-12042-00000dcf1d9cc8bd_zpsa80fdde4.jpg

    Mongoose Beast modifications-3dfce7fe-e26d-47e3-b6c2-dcbc484d3138-12042-00000dcf2cc91fee_zps599ac4cd.jpg

  33. #433
    gran jefe
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    smaller chainrings and cogs look cooler too. i have a feeling there are drawbacks in efficiency and chain life, but they do look sweet.

  34. #434
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    My " Unleash the beast" mods

    So being a bit late to this thread I thought I'd post what I've gotten done so far, Like many here I bought this as a project knowing what it is. Since I had a bunch of parts on hand already its come together pretty fast. I bought red because I had a set of red lock-on grips

    Changed the stem to an Answer A-Tac.
    bars are Full on Funn triple butted.
    Answer pro tapered headset.
    Purchased the YST BB bearings.
    Swapped the tires for V-rubber missions.
    26x3.00 DH tubes.
    Shimano cranks geared 26x16.
    Homemade bash guard made from kitchen cutting board.
    Thompson seatpost.
    Fizik Nizene saddle.
    Changed the front hub to a disc hub.
    Drilled the front rim.
    Fabricated and welded on a caliper mount.
    Installed avid juicy five with 200mm disc .
    Red lock-on grips.
    Still to come -
    I ordered a Sturmey Archer 3 speed / disc rear hub 170mm wide.
    I will install rear disc brakes and drill the rear rim as well as lose the side stand.
    What a differance the front brake makes, suddenly unafraid to rail through turns, single track is a blast and its been a great project, I'm sure it will get alot of use when the snow fly's here in Colorado.
    granted this will never compare to my 23lbs 29er but what the hell, I'm in it for around five bills out of pocket including the 3 speed hub being shipped from England.
    Thanks to all those who shared ideas.








  35. #435
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    That thing is super cool!

  36. #436
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    Tidy job.
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
    Latitude: 57º36' Highlands, Scotland

  37. #437
    gran jefe
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    that's a massive rotor! very nice work.

  38. #438
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    I've got a juicy 5 with a 203mm rotor on my Yeti. I LOVE it!! Just watch out because you can stop REALLY hard.

  39. #439
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    Thanks for all the comps !

    Bill - I tried a 160mm rotor and the spokes hit the caliper, 185 would have done it but bigger is better in this case, plenty of clearance and huge stopping power.

  40. #440
    gran jefe
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    it's perfect!

  41. #441
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    I got a set of Origin8 tires today. I dont have any pics on the bike because my beast wont be here till tuesday. But Ill post some mounted pics ASAP. I didnt realize they were made my Vee Rubber.

    Here are the pics I have:

    Here is it next to a 26x2.1



    And next to a Schwalbe Muddy Mary 2.5









    Also, got my bars setup. Stem adapter, generic stem, and a carbon bar. over half pound lighter than stock.


  42. #442
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    If anyone is interested in doing the front disc conversion here is a link to the hub, you will need shorter spokes in the 256 to 258mm range.
    Amazon.com: Wheel Master Front Alloy Hub - 36H, 3/8" Bolt-On, Disc 135mm, Loose Ball, Black: Sports & Outdoors

    There is a sealed bearing version for about $10 more. BTW, spoke length calculators dont work accurately for these rims due to the wide pattern , I had more threads rolled on mine and shortened them. It might be possible to add 5mm thick washers under the nipples but ??? , I have used 2mm thick aluminum rivet backup washers in the past with no problems to effectivly shorten spokes. ( I know, kinda mickey mouse )
    I originally tried to lace them up Cross 4 but the spokes are too short for that. If I'm super lucky I'll be able to go cross 4 on the Sturmey 3 speed hub since the flanges are really large and closer together. we'll see when it gets here.

  43. #443
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    Thanks so much. I've been shopping and missed that one.
    At Freespoke one can enter spoke bed offset which is 17.5 mm each side on the Beast rim. My 1st time using it and fairly easy, it's free, and they make a drawing for You.
    I'm trying a 150 mm X 12mm axle with spacers on the rear as done by CruJonez. ChoppersUS is out of stock but: http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/sturmey-a...ole-prod19019/ Please let Us know how You like that 3 speed. Seems like the simplest hub mod for gears and disc.
    Last edited by dudeist; 09-01-2013 at 06:53 AM.

  44. #444
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    Thanks for the link , I couldnt find one that allowed for spoke offset, I did get the hub from SJS , should be here next week sometime, I'll post how it works out.


    Quote Originally Posted by dudeist View Post
    Thanks so much. I've been shopping and missed that one.
    Freespoke Here one can enter spoke bed offset which is 17.5 mm each side on the Beast rim. My 1st time using it and fairly easy, plus they make a drawing for You and free site.
    I'm trying a 150 mm X 12mm axle with spacers on the rear as done by CruJonez. ChoppersUS is out of stock but: http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/sturmey-a...ole-prod19019/ Please let Us know how You like that 3 speed. Seems like the simplest hub mod for gears and disc.

  45. #445
    gran jefe
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    has anyone tried the choppersrus crank spindle/axle?

    blown240, i love the look of those bars. i have the parts, but haven't put mine on yet. I wish it had been worth more than half a pound. i didn't get a carbon bar, and was still hoping for weight savings.

  46. #446
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    Bill - If I remember right the 1/2 pound savings includes the brake levers and the LX 8 speed shifter. If you remove them the weight savings is closer to a pound. I can double check the weights again if you like...

    Also, the stock stem is half aluminum, so even though its heavy, its not as bad as I thought, and having to buy a stem adapter and a thread-less stem isn't the lightest way to go. I would think if a guy looked enough, you could find an aluminum 1 1/8th threaded stem that would save even more weight. I went the way I did because I already had the carbon bars and the stem. I got the adapter for $14 at Performance Bike. (which happens to be within walking distance from my house)

  47. #447
    gran jefe
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    Ok, if it included the levers and shifter that makes more sense. i'll weigh my own when i swap them. i have all the parts, i just haven't put them together yet.

    I think you are right about the threaded/threadless thing. A light threaded stem would be lighter than the adapter and stem. The adapter is all about image.

  48. #448
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    [QUOTE=Bill in Houston;10647998]has anyone tried the choppersrus crank spindle/axle?





    "So I ordered a replacement spindle from Cycles U.S. Extra Wide Bottom Bracket Axle - Cycles U.S. LLC/Choppers U.S. and unfortunately, it's a no go. It's about a 1/2" shorter and the bearing races are about 1/8" further apart than the stock BB spindle on each side.
    I installed some spacers on the fixed side of the BB when I installed it but have barely 2mm clearance on the drive side and the crank arm hits the frame if I put any real pressure on the left pedal."

    The above from Jim Hanoonen on another Beast thread. Not entirely clear whether it could possibly work with some cranks with wide offsets and shims/spacers/refacing/installed backward?

  49. #449
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill in Houston View Post
    I think you are right about the threaded/threadless thing. A light threaded stem would be lighter than the adapter and stem. The adapter is all about image.

    Or about using stuff from the parts bin you already have laying around.
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  50. #450
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    Quote Originally Posted by Denisesewa View Post
    spoke length calculators dont work accurately for these rims due to the wide pattern...
    I think you should be able to measure how far from the center line of the rim the spoke holes are, I'll guess 10mm for each side for the sake of conversation, so from spoke to spoke there is a 20mm gap as each spoke is 10mm from the center line. Lets say the hub flanges are 100mm apart, so we subtract 20 from 100 and use 80mm as the hub flange width measurement and a spoke calculator should work as we will have effectively eliminated the wide spoke pattern from the measurements.

  51. #451
    gran jefe
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    Quote Originally Posted by dudeist View Post
    The above from Jim Hanoonen on another Beast thread. Not entirely clear whether it could possibly work with some cranks with wide offsets and shims/spacers/refacing/installed backward?
    yeah, it seems like it juuuust might work...

    Quote Originally Posted by mochunk View Post
    Or about using stuff from the parts bin you already have laying around.
    What do you mean?

  52. #452
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    My Beast will be here tomorrow, so tonight I came up with a probably stupid idea:

    Mongoose Beast modifications-fsbeast_zpsa0c525ea.jpg

    I already have several used rear shocks, including a pretty nice Fox alps 4 that has about 1 1/2 stroke. I also already have the curved black link pieces.

    So I would need to make the seat stays, shock mount, and pivots. Since its all steal, those parts would be pretty easy to fab. I would probably just find a used cheapie FS bike and use the pivots etc...


    Once I get my beast, I probably wont want to cut it up, but Ive done worse before!

  53. #453
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    Quote Originally Posted by blown240 View Post
    My Beast will be here tomorrow, so tonight I came up with a probably stupid idea...
    Great idea, go for it.

    What better bike to do bold experiments on?

    (Although if you haven't ridden a fatbike before, you may be surprised at how little need there is for suspension.)
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
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  54. #454
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    [QUOTE=Bill in Houston;10650782

    What do you mean?[/QUOTE]

    I think he was continuing the statement concerning stems " Its all about image" >> " Or about using stuff from the parts bin you already have laying around".

  55. #455
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    BTW, concerning stems there are plenty of 1 1/8th threaded quill stems around as these came on many early ( Cheap) mountain bikes and BMX bikes, since these are not generally wanted they are cheap. these two I happened to have in my junk bin.


  56. #456
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    I was able to save about 45 Lbs on mine, and solve all the issues by returning this most terrible bicycle. The steering issue is horrendous. Unfortunately, many first time buyers will think that this is how all fatbikes feel. That is not good.
    2015 Budnitz MTB Ti Limited 650B
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  57. #457
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    Quote Originally Posted by Morpheous View Post
    I was able to save about 45 Lbs on mine, and solve all the issues by returning this most terrible bicycle. The steering issue is horrendous...
    Ultimate WW.

    Out of interest, did you try it with the tyres from your Pug?
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
    Latitude: 57º36' Highlands, Scotland

  58. #458
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    Mine got here tonight. Here a quick pic, I'll fill in the details tomorrow, it's late ...

    Mongoose Beast modifications-587e4bd3-30af-4aa6-aaad-ba7b7e97a9b1-19516-0000163e74c12cd7_zps4ebaac17.jpg

  59. #459
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    Losing the rotating mass at the wheels by changing tires / tubes made a huge differance in handeling on mine, I ride alot of trials so this geo really doesnt feel bad to me although I have thought about a longer fork to change the geo abit .
    Velo is right, tires are everything

  60. #460
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    got my beast yesterday. Once I greased everything I put it together. So far I have removed the kick stand and chain guard, installed my cranks and 16t cog, a carbon bar, a stem adapter and stem, a nice leather seat I had, and some Devist8r tires. I havent had a chance to weigh it yet.

    Here are some pics:

    Mongoose Beast modifications-587e4bd3-30af-4aa6-aaad-ba7b7e97a9b1-19516-0000163e74c12cd7_zps4ebaac17.jpg

    Mongoose Beast modifications-0c78852f-07b2-429d-88fd-e37f5d43ee5a-19516-0000163e68787397_zps9b79c0ee.jpg


    Here is the new tire next to the old:

    Mongoose Beast modifications-5b51b986-1b64-4ef9-9b55-6194da13277c-19516-0000163e87f92d21_zps3f8be018.jpg

    Mongoose Beast modifications-a2046b23-9504-4dba-8e22-16f74b566463-19516-0000163e908a2f4d_zpsa9cc4c9f.jpg


    And here is what happened when I tried to blow the cheap grips off with an air compressor:

    POP!!

    Mongoose Beast modifications-6aaf8558-2c55-4eaf-84b5-6bd5dc262ca5-19516-0000163e80a5b03b_zps5809de1b.jpg

    The only real damage out of the box was that the fork was partially stripped by the keyed washer. Looks like they forced it on and then it spun:

    Mongoose Beast modifications-8908131f-68dc-4485-8134-a7a62de9198f-19516-0000163ea6102698_zpscee0da94.jpg

    Also, I tried to use some 26x2.5 tubes in the new tires because they were much lighter, but this is what happened. Does anyone know how to avoid this? Ive read many threads about using regular tubes:

    Mongoose Beast modifications-1ea4867e-e429-4965-9fa1-ef5bd5438cee-19516-0000163e9eab9b43_zps48802ce4.jpg

    At this point its rideable, but when coasting the rear hub wants to grab a bit and makes the cog click back and forth. Its probably just an adjustment, but I'm planning on swapping hubs anyway...

    Next plans are to remove the stickers, drill the rims, and start working on some hand brakes.

  61. #461
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    I received the Sturmey 3 speed last night so today went to work on getting it installed , Drilled the rear rim ( went with 1 1/4 instead of
    1 1/2 holes like the front ) had to dissasemble another wheel to get the spokes , laced up the wheel cross 4 with 271mm spokes, fabricated the brake caliper mount and welded it on, I decided not to go with slotted mounts to accomadate wheel position when tightening the chain, I will instead just use different thickness mounting disc's/cupped washers since the Avids already use them and I used a tektro disc which has a rather wide contact area so minor adjustments will be no problem, I welded a cable mount for the 3 speed to the chain stay rather than use a clamp-on type as I dont want things going out of adjustment, also went with a 23 tooth cog instead of the 20 that comes with the hub, I think this might be too low but we'll see, all the cables kinda take away from the clean look the bike had but its really cool to have good brakes and I wont have to walk the couple of climbs I had to when it was single speed, The shifting is smooth and gear spacing feels appropriate.
    It shifts perfectly with the SRAM I-Motion grip shift. So far I like it ! Anyway, been a long day , I'll hit some singletrack in the morning.








  62. #462
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    Quote Originally Posted by blown240 View Post
    , I tried to use some 26x2.5 tubes in the new tires because they were much lighter, but this is what happened. Does anyone know how to avoid this? Ive read many threads about using regular tubes:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    At this point its rideable, but when coasting the rear hub wants to grab a bit and makes the cog click back and forth. Its probably just an adjustment, but I'm planning on swapping hubs anyway...

    Next plans are to remove the stickers, drill the rims, and start working on some hand brakes.
    That tube is hilariuos , I used 26x3.00 tubes from Cambria bike on Ebay with out a problem.
    Looking good so far.

  63. #463
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    Which model of Sturmey did you use?

  64. #464
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    Also, would you mind posting where you ordered it? I've not been able to locate any place that has the 170mm in stock.

  65. #465
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    Quote Originally Posted by rss26Roger View Post
    Which model of Sturmey did you use?
    SX RK3

    From SJS in england >> http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/sturmey-a...aec1bd5960ef61
    It arrived pretty fast , I bought the last one but they had them back in stock in a few days which makes me wonder why Chopperrus has been out of stock for so long , It costs a bit more from SJS and you have to buy a shifter ( $15 on ebay) unless you want to run the stick shifter it comes with.

  66. #466
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    Quote Originally Posted by Morpheous View Post
    The steering issue is horrendous.
    Hmmm, mine steers great. There's a bit of gyroscope feel once you get going faster.


    My keyed washer had been spun too.

    Great work, y'all.

  67. #467
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    I'd never measured the SRAM shifter for cable pull, so it's interesting that it works ok with this hub.

    Keep us posted. I've had one of those hubs built into a wheel for a couple of years now, but haven't used it, so I'd like to hear how it gets on with trail use.
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
    Latitude: 57º36' Highlands, Scotland

  68. #468
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    Quote Originally Posted by Velobike View Post
    I'd never measured the SRAM shifter for cable pull, so it's interesting that it works ok with this hub.

    Keep us posted. I've had one of those hubs built into a wheel for a couple of years now, but haven't used it, so I'd like to hear how it gets on with trail use.
    Just got back from some singletrack , other than being geared too low the bike was great, perfect shifts and having brakes which actually work made the ride alot of fun, I will change from 23 t cog to 20 tooth for sure, one thing I did was make sure the wheel was located as far forward as possible in the dropouts, this helped the handeling and ability to lift the front wheel alot, I am thinking about machining the dropouts even further forward since with these lower profile tires there is still alot of room.
    As for shifter compatability, in first gear the the shifter chain is just completely tight ( cant be pulled out any more), second has the exact adjustment recomended by the instructions and third has just a bit of slack in the cable so I think I have it right and shifts were flawless.

  69. #469
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    Here is mine, slightly modified. On sale for $178. Tons of fun to ride at the beach. Im going to try some single track soon.

    Mongoose Beast modifications-100_25631.jpg
    Mongoose Beast modifications-100_25611.jpg

  70. #470
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    Where did you get the front chain ring? Are you spinning with that?

  71. #471
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    Re: Mongoose Beast modifications

    Do you guys just put other legitimate bike manufacturer names on there to play pretend? Or what's the deal? Kind of reminds me of the guys who put decals all over their "muscle cars" or trucks, with parts that aren't even in it.

    Glad to see mod'ing is working out for some though.
    ...Be careful what you're looking at because it might be looking back...

  72. #472
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    Edoardo Bianchi is spinning is his grave. Fortunately his corpse is mounted to some freshly greased Campy bearings, so the spinning is nice and smooth.

  73. #473
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    Quote Originally Posted by SmooveP View Post
    Edoardo Bianchi is spinning is his grave. Fortunately his corpse is mounted to some freshly greased Campy bearings, so the spinning is nice and smooth.
    Maybe we could mod an old pair of Record hubs, mount them on CactusPete's bike, and Eduardo could be spinning and grinning......
    Latitude 61

  74. #474
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    Quote Originally Posted by cactuspete1972 View Post
    Where did you get the front chain ring? Are you spinning with that?
    My chainring is just a regular 22t ring. I modified a crank to bolt that ring there the big ring would go. It spins out on flats pretty easily.

  75. #475
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    Quote Originally Posted by sryanak View Post
    Maybe we could mod an old pair of Record hubs, mount them on CactusPete's bike, and Eduardo could be spinning and grinning......
    Already tried that. The hubs refused to work on the WalGoose. I mean they literally refused to work. They sat down on the side of the road, smoking cigarettes and drinking espressos.

  76. #476
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    Quote Originally Posted by duggus View Post
    Do you guys just put other legitimate bike manufacturer names on there to play pretend? Or what's the deal? Kind of reminds me of the guys who put decals all over their "muscle cars" or trucks, with parts that aren't even in it.

    Glad to see mod'ing is working out for some though.
    I knew there would be someone griping about the Bianchi sticker. Its a joke. I don't think anyone will really think Bianchi makes a fat bike, this is supposed to be the humor in it.

  77. #477
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    I had a couple ideas for a rear suspension design for the beast. I wanted something that could use as much of the stock frame as possible. I came up with a design that doesn't need a pivot by the rear axle. To see if it worked, I busted out my boys erector set.

    This is what I came up with:

    Mongoose Beast modifications-a47649a3-263e-4bcb-9090-097742b8f9cc-22765-00001a021582c4d8_zps51888c85.jpg

    Here it is in the "extended" posisition:

    Mongoose Beast modifications-9ec714db-f23b-4627-8015-2c0adc7f9fda-22765-00001a01ffb8839b_zps79fe2e6c.jpg

    And "compressed":

    Mongoose Beast modifications-1e9664c0-872e-4f0e-a347-eddde68c0b9b-22765-00001a0207e267ea_zps35d8ace8.jpg

    The rear triangle is very similar to the design of my Yeti. The Yeti has a carbon flex point in the seat stay, I think this may be because of the amount of travel the Yeti has 5.75". But I feel that the steel beast frame would have enough flex naturally to not need a flex joint. In the erector set model, I didnt need a flex.

    Here is the Yeti:

    Mongoose Beast modifications-d0792963-b892-4f64-bdb7-48a583812f8f-22765-00001a0229938659_zpsf70fab36.jpg

    And as I side note I picked up this front brake setup for $35.
    $20 for the caliper and lever and $15 for the rotor. All used, but functional:

    Mongoose Beast modifications-403694af-495a-48ab-856e-5174ed6db8f2-22765-00001a02375df53f_zps265865d5.jpg

  78. #478
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    This is getting to be the best thread on the forum. Keep it up...
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
    Latitude: 57º36' Highlands, Scotland

  79. #479
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    I ordered my front disc hub today. And I started drilling on my front rim. My hole saw was duller than I thought, but it was enough for 1 wheel. I will need to get another for the rear. I broke way to many pilot bits on the front. I got all the holes drilled, now I just have some filing and dremeling to do to clean them up.

    Heres a pic of where I am at so far:

    Mongoose Beast modifications-671978b2-a820-437a-8cee-3e273cc80454-23117-00001ae9991bdad3_zps48e5734d.jpg

  80. #480
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    Quote Originally Posted by blown240 View Post
    I ordered my front disc hub today. And I started drilling on my front rim. My hole saw was duller than I thought, but it was enough for 1 wheel. I will need to get another for the rear. I broke way to many pilot bits on the front. I got all the holes drilled, now I just have some filing and dremeling to do to clean them up.

    Heres a pic of where I am at so far:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Does that really save a lot of weight? What about the integrity of the rim? Are these rims steel or alloy?

  81. #481
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    The rims are alloy. Many people have drilled them this way with no issues. You just want to skip the areas where the valve stem and the rim seam are. Im not exactly sure on the weight savings, but I have heard is about a half pound when both wheels are done. Ill see when its done and I get the bike back together. Even if the weight savings aren't huge, I think the look is cool...

  82. #482
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    Lost 203g off the front by drilling 1.5" all around, with 1" on either side of the valve stem. Not doing it for weight, but for installing retro-reflective tape. Only did the front so far (estimate 406g for front & back, for 0.895 lbs.).
    Lost 1399g going to a Larry front, 323g going to a dh tube and 101g for their rim 'tape'.
    Total off the front (without adding the retro-reflective tape yet) 2,026g for 4.46 lbs..

  83. #483
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    Not doing it for weight, but for installing retro-reflective tape.
    What tape are you planning to use?

  84. #484
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    Same as used here
    Rim cutouts: reflective tape install - best practices?
    (don't know if the photos are still there. site has changed and it won't show me photos with the standard permissions. Wants permissions granted to google, facebook, twitter, etc., even though none of those store the photo)

  85. #485
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    Cool! Thanks for the heads up! Ill be drilling mine pretty soon, and I like the look of this.

    Nice job on the 4+ lbs drop on the front wheel, too. Im still running the stock setup, and look forward to losing the weight sometime!

  86. #486
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    I temporarily put my front wheel back together today. I have a new hub coming and when it gets here I will strip the paint off the rim, finish cleaning up the outside of the holes, and get a proper rim strip. I think I will go ahead and drill on either side of the rim seam too. I'll just make sure to no cut the actual seam.

    Front rim drilling and new tube took .6 lbs off bike. Current weight is 39.8 pounds.

    Mongoose Beast modifications-5d328b3d-cb55-4a76-9379-3cd0406277e8-25358-00001ed6ebcbe04a_zps67418829.jpg

    Mongoose Beast modifications-a56d64c5-6e81-4c2e-a5fa-8727b789ef15-25358-00001ed6d6f248dc_zpsfc46196a.jpg

  87. #487
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    Quote Originally Posted by blown240 View Post
    I temporarily put my front wheel back together today. I have a new hub coming and when it gets here I will strip the paint off the rim, finish cleaning up the outside of the holes, and get a proper rim strip.

    Front rim drilling and new tube took .6 lbs off bike. Current weight is 39.8 pounds.
    I found a chainsaw file worked great to take the burrs off the holes, I also used red dacron sail material for a rimstrip, light and strong.
    Looking good !!

  88. #488
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    Quote Originally Posted by Denisesewa View Post
    I found a chainsaw file worked great to take the burrs off the holes, I also used red dacron sail material for a rimstrip, light and strong.
    Looking good !!
    But the best thing possible is a hand deburring tool:
    Attached Images Attached Images
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

    WSS/OSS: Open Source Sealant

  89. #489
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    Quote Originally Posted by MiniTrail View Post
    ^ you are better at gifs that that
    Glad am I that you pointed that out! Shoulda used image search to begin with!

    Voila!


    The hooked blade follows your hand as you neatly slice the burrs from any inside curve.



    Pity it doesn't work for an outside curve, but it does pretty good on straight edges as well. First time I saw one in use I knew one needed to be in my tool box.

    The plastic handled ones do break after a while. And the blades do wear out. There are also some different blade types for special uses:

    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

    WSS/OSS: Open Source Sealant

  90. #490
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    Might as well cut the rim 'seam' too. Both of my wheels weren't even welded or bonded by any means other than the powdercoat. So essentially the seam isn't doing anything except for the far outside edges.

    I welded my seam for a more sturdy finished product...

  91. #491
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    That is a super clean geared hub mod. Convenient how the caliper lined up.

    I'm taking two Beasts with 8 speed shimano hubs with coaster brakes into the Utah desert in a couple of weeks. Should be a good test.

    Quote Originally Posted by Denisesewa View Post
    I received the Sturmey 3 speed last night so today went to work on getting it installed , Drilled the rear rim ( went with 1 1/4 instead of
    1 1/2 holes like the front ) had to dissasemble another wheel to get the spokes , laced up the wheel cross 4 with 271mm spokes, fabricated the brake caliper mount and welded it on, I decided not to go with slotted mounts to accomadate wheel position when tightening the chain, I will instead just use different thickness mounting disc's/cupped washers since the Avids already use them and I used a tektro disc which has a rather wide contact area so minor adjustments will be no problem, I welded a cable mount for the 3 speed to the chain stay rather than use a clamp-on type as I dont want things going out of adjustment, also went with a 23 tooth cog instead of the 20 that comes with the hub, I think this might be too low but we'll see, all the cables kinda take away from the clean look the bike had but its really cool to have good brakes and I wont have to walk the couple of climbs I had to when it was single speed, The shifting is smooth and gear spacing feels appropriate.
    It shifts perfectly with the SRAM I-Motion grip shift. So far I like it ! Anyway, been a long day , I'll hit some singletrack in the morning.








  92. #492
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    Very impressed. How much do you think you have in it total?

    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Motocross View Post
    That is a super clean geared hub mod. Convenient how the caliper lined up.

    I'm taking two Beasts with 8 speed shimano hubs with coaster brakes into the Utah desert in a couple of weeks. Should be a good test.

  93. #493
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    Just over $500 but keep in mind I already had the cranks, gears, brakes, headset, stem, bars, seat and post,pedals , grips ect. I even had the touch-up paint on hand. so I spent $200 on the bike, $215 on the shifter and rear hub, $30 on the front hub and $90 on the tires and tubes, If I had to buy everything the bike wouldnt be worth it. But I wanted a project and this worked out really well for me.

    Quote Originally Posted by cactuspete1972 View Post
    Very impressed. How much do you think you have in it total?

  94. #494
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    Very nice, it looks pro. Took my Beast on the beach yesterday and rode a few miles. Definitely a workout even with a 22 tooth cog.

  95. #495
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    My blue Beast arrived yesterday. Started greasing.

  96. #496
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    I've always like the idea of owning a fat bike and seeing this bike on the net gave me the impression that this might be an economical way of giving a fat bikes a shot. However, it might be a good project bike if you have a lot of extra parts around. If not, then in my opinion, it's just not worth the effort.

    Now that I see bikes direct is selling a fat bike at an awesome price. For myself this is a much better choice. At least, if I do something to that bike, it will be for customizing reasons.

    The beast looked like a value, but after all the time and effort just to make rideable, and including the total cost to make the beast fully functional. It's not worth my time.

    To each, it's own.

  97. #497
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    I'd have to agree with you , especially if you dont want to work on one or have the parts on hand, Motobecane was once a top line manufacture ( not sure about that now ) but its still a great deal, Aluminum frame and even the low spected bike has hydrolic disc brakes , I have a set of Tektros and I'd say they compare to Avid juicy
    3's and actually work better than the low end Shimano's I've had.
    Looks like the Walgoose is dead !
    Those prices are for " Pre Order though so who knows how long the wait will be.
    Nice find !!
    Save Up To 60% Off Fat Bikes and Fat Mountain Bicycles from bikesdirect.com

    Quote Originally Posted by Solo-Rider View Post
    I've always like the idea of owning a fat bike and seeing this bike on the net gave me the impression that this might be an economical way of giving a fat bikes a shot. However, it might be a good project bike if you have a lot of extra parts around. If not, then in my opinion, it's just not worth the effort.

    Now that I see bikes direct is selling a fat bike at an awesome price. For myself this is a much better choice. At least, if I do something to that bike, it will be for customizing reasons.

    The beast looked like a value, but after all the time and effort just to make rideable, and including the total cost to make the beast fully functional. It's not worth my time.

    To each, it's own.

  98. #498
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    Quote Originally Posted by Denisesewa View Post
    \
    Looks like the Walgoose is dead !\
    No, not for everyone. I love cruising my FatGoose around, enjoy the attention it gets, and it is the perfect ride to keep up with my 6 year old daughter. I haven't taken it on any serious trails, and I won't. No, not because its a Walgoose, but simply because I have a 5.5" FS ride for ripping the serious stuff. I cant speak for everyone, but I love the 'Goose - the $325 I have in mine brings me cheap entertainment!

    These Moto-B fat bikes are alot like the Walgoose - a great starting point to get someone into fat bikes. It will make a great beginning platform for those who must have hand brakes and gearing. Are the MBs really competition to a $2700 Moonlander? No.

    I also have a Schwinn Orange Krate repro in the garage - is it also dead because it isn't the real thing (or because I didn't pay several thousand dollars for it)? It makes me happy too.

    Mongoose Beast modifications-img_31141_zpsad757b5e.jpg

    Mongoose Beast modifications-img_31151_zps1e469cb6.jpg

    Mongoose Beast modifications-orangekrate_zpsa6d5d2ef.jpg

  99. #499
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    Well, I may have mistated that a bit, I have no regrets building mine but I do think with the MB being priced this low many would-be wal-gooser's will opt to spend the extra $ .
    Nice Krate Mosquito !!

  100. #500
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    I agree the Walgoose is far from dead. I have 2 very nice full suspension bikes, a Yeti and an Intense. Those bikes are done and ride great. But right now the Beast is a fun project to play around with and have a ton of fun while doing it!

    Now if you want a fatbike that doesnt require any work to start enjoying it. Then the MB is for sure a great deal!

    Mongoose Beast modifications-img_0920.jpg

    Mongoose Beast modifications-img_0250.jpg

    Mongoose Beast modifications-img_1311.jpg

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