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  1. #301
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    Mongoose Beast modifications

    Just saying,
    Mongoose Beast modifications-imageuploadedbytapatalk1369446312.851462.jpg
    2013 mongoose Fat bike
    2012 Moonlander.

    http://undergroundvelo.proboards.com/

  2. #302
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlmostQuick View Post
    Attachment 802097



    Made up at a local sign shop. I have 2 pairs left. $25 a pair shipping included. If anyone is interested PM me.
    Cool ... I was hoping you'd be pointing me to an online custom sticker site where I could select those materials (looks metallic) for something I've been thinking of doing.

    Local sign shop it is !

  3. #303
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackbombay View Post
    Have a link handy for that stem?
    Sunlite Alloy 2-Bolt Stem - 1-1/8" x 80mm, 25.4mm Clamp, 25-Degree, Silver Anodized : Amazon.com : Sports & Outdoors

    Sunlite Alloy 2-Bolt Stem - 1-1/8" x 80mm, 25.4mm Clamp, 25-Degree, Silver Anodized
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

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  4. #304
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    Quote Originally Posted by wadester View Post
    Sunlite Alloy 2-Bolt Stem - 1-1/8" x 80mm, 25.4mm Clamp, 25-Degree, Silver Anodized : Amazon.com : Sports & Outdoors

    Sunlite Alloy 2-Bolt Stem - 1-1/8" x 80mm, 25.4mm Clamp, 25-Degree, Silver Anodized
    Thank you!

  5. #305
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeabuser View Post
    Cool ... I was hoping you'd be pointing me to an online custom sticker site where I could select those materials (looks metallic) for something I've been thinking of doing.

    Local sign shop it is !
    The online sites are way too expensive. (I've set up and priced decals there before)

    Sign shops are less expensive but have a minimum order before it's worth it for them to set up and run the machine. Most aren't interested in making two custom decals for a few bucks... there's no profit in it for them.

    Here's a few others I've had made up in the past...

    Mongoose Beast modifications-lemonatordecals.jpg

    Mongoose Beast modifications-wyodecaltop.jpg

    Mongoose Beast modifications-fs860decal_zps54b5847c.jpg

  6. #306
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    Quote Originally Posted by textbookonewk View Post
    Anybody have the guts to cut the shell down to 100mm, then face and tap it for a proper fat bike BB. My frame hasn't arrived yet, but if it arrives damaged, and I end up with an extra bike as many of you have, I may give this a try.



    I intended to do it this way. Milling 5mm off of each side and retapping, enabling the use of already available 100mm BB's.

  7. #307
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeabuser View Post
    The second call was when I explained things, and they said OK, we'll send you the parts you need.
    very cool.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dirty $anchez View Post
    I intended to do it this way. Milling 5mm off of each side and retapping, enabling the use of already available 100mm BB's.
    Do crank arms usually have enough offset to handle that? If so, this seems to be a great solution.

  8. #308
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirty $anchez View Post
    I intended to do it this way. Milling 5mm off of each side and retapping, enabling the use of already available 100mm BB's.
    Did you ever get one ?

  9. #309
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirty $anchez View Post
    I intended to do it this way. Milling 5mm off of each side and retapping, enabling the use of already available 100mm BB's.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill in Houston View Post
    very cool.

    Do crank arms usually have enough offset to handle that? If so, this seems to be a great solution.
    Ya know, it took 7mm worth of spacers to get the chainline straight using an aluminum 94/56 crankset - taking 5mm off the shell width on the drive side would make it just 2mm.

    And instead of pricey 100mm BB cranksets, you can use this:
    Extra Wide Bottom Bracket Axle - Cycles U.S. LLC/Choppers U.S.

    Replacement for Schwinn Stingray - No More Buying a Complete Bike Just for These Elusive Parts; When Installed in Wider BB Shell Will Provide Proper Chain Clearance for 4" Wide Wheels; Square Shoulder Accepts Standard 3 Piece Crank Arms; Approx. 165mm Long Overall and 100mm Center to Center for Shoulders That Support the Bearing Races; Shoulder Bolts (Pair) Included; BB Cups, Races and Bearings Also Available (Sold Separately).

    Your Price: $12.99
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    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

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  10. #310
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    Quote Originally Posted by MiniTrail View Post
    lookin good bh
    Thanks, it wanted to be like this. It got an inferiority complex next to my moonlander.

    Great thread btw.
    2013 mongoose Fat bike
    2012 Moonlander.

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  11. #311
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    Does anyone know if a 26 x 4.7 tire will clear the frame?

  12. #312
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    Clearance is 5.25" in back & 5.5" at fork.
    This translates to about an inch at the pedals, though I never noticed while riding. Would be nice to have a spare if/when available. Took apart bb after a wet ride, and lots of water and dirt in there. Wear on original cups was easy to see where paint was missing! Most wear was at bottom of drive side. Replaced bb with YST. Remember- drive side is lefty thread! New bb has a little rubber seal, not tight, but should help some.
    Go easy on them cranks fellas! Helps that I got 32X22 and only 170mm crankarms, but will try spinning more and grunting less for a while.

  13. #313
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    in olden times, they drilled a hole in the bottom of the BB to allow water to drain out. prolly a good idea.

  14. #314
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    Stumbled into this looking for parts. Get comfy & hit play on the 1st video [30 min.] Mongoose | Roots

  15. #315
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    Quote Originally Posted by MiniTrail View Post
    ^^ stooges did that in a boat
    Who are these Stooges you speak of?
    Out to ride

  16. #316
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeabuser View Post
    Did you ever get one ?


    No I did not. I am going to use the funds for a Pugs or Mukluk.

  17. #317
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirty $anchez View Post
    No I did not. I am going to use the funds for a Pugs or Mukluk.
    A better choice ... Me, I just wanted something fat to beat up for a bit, and screw around with ideas on.

    My other choice is finally on an inbound truck.

  18. #318
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    Thanks for the clearance info.

    Does anyone know if this Shimano Cog For Internal Gear Hub will fit the rear hub and line up with the stock crank and chain ring?

  19. #319
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    Ya that one works and same offset as original within a mm. I got the 22t and love it with a 32t front ring for trails and hills and babying the wimpy spindle, but I'm getting a 19t to try for level pavement cruisin'.

  20. #320
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    I just put the stock tires back on the beast ... Decided that Pacific was taking to long in their delivery of parts to me ... It's getting returned (tomorrow) to Walmart, with it's crappy welded (crack in the weld) fork.

    Keep an eye on thoese welds !!!

  21. #321
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    Quote Originally Posted by bighit View Post
    Just saying,
    Click image for larger version. 

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    You win, and it's not close.
    Still cleaning my Fatback.
    It's a life style.

  22. #322
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeabuser View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by SmooveP View Post
    Hopefully saved you from buying another Walmart bike?
    Steel ... When the FREE replacement arrives, I'll have 2
    Gave up on the waiting.

    The main reason it went bye bye ... I'd have kep ti, if Pacific didn't futz around for over a month.
    If the parts ever show up, I guess I'll write "return to sender" on the package.
    Mongoose Beast modifications-forkcrack.jpg

    The lady in customer service was giving me funny looks, and when I got to the counter she said "Oh, it's a Walmart Bike, I've never seen that model".

    I kind of think she was giving me the eye for bringing my bike into the store to return something else LOL.

    Keep an eye on those welds, Walmart shoppers !!!

  23. #323
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeabuser View Post
    Gave up on the waiting.

    The main reason it went bye bye ... I'd have kep ti, if Pacific didn't futz around for over a month.
    If the parts ever show up, I guess I'll write "return to sender" on the package.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    The lady in customer service was giving me funny looks, and when I got to the counter she said "Oh, it's a Walmart Bike, I've never seen that model".

    I kind of think she was giving me the eye for bringing my bike into the store to return something else LOL.

    Keep an eye on those welds, Walmart shoppers !!!
    Don't go to the store. I had a bent fork. I called them direct and I had to provide a pic and SS number and a new bike was on the way. They send it in a giant box with the bike box inside. When you do what you got to do call them and tell them your ready and they send a call tag the next day.

    Good customer service.
    2013 mongoose Fat bike
    2012 Moonlander.

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  24. #324
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    Quote Originally Posted by bighit View Post
    Don't go to the store. I had a bent fork. I called them direct and I had to provide a pic and SS number and a new bike was on the way. They send it in a giant box with the bike box inside. When you do what you got to do call them and tell them your ready and they send a call tag the next day.

    Good customer service.
    To late !!!
    Took it in this morning ... Besides ... It was an experiment in my mind, while waiting for the real Fat Bike to become available ... Fed Ex says it should arrive, tomorrow

    I'd have kept the goose, if Pacific didn't drag the heels ... A month is more than long enough to wait.

    On to the next One ... Goose solidified my thoughts ... Ideas firm at this point.

    Pic's and a new thread, soon.

    ETA:
    If the parts ever arrive, and Pacific doesn't want them back, they'll get posted as available, to whoever wants to pay shipping charges.

  25. #325
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    Built up a Beast for my GF to try some fatbiking for herself. I had some extra fat bike tires laying around and ordered up some cheapo purple bits to put together "Donatello" for her. Already considering building a 907 XS green frame with all purple bits for her. It certainly would be better than this thing. It was a fun exercise at least and she can get some seat time in. I haven't had much luck with the weak bottom bracket axle though with my big ass bunny hopping it. She babies it so it's fine for her.
    Fatbike Chicago on Facebook

  26. #326
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    Ker' SNAP.... Broken Hub...

    Quote Originally Posted by AKPowderhound View Post
    Okay took the time to try to carve some weight off. Headset converter, alloy bars, crank arms, 32 tooth front, retained stock rear. Surly 120 tpi front tire, stock rear tire. (Origin8 Devist-8er 120tpi on order) Stock tubes. Still at 41lbs, so far all from the parts bin, only cost at this point the Devist-8er and some grips for $70.00...

    Thing is still insanely fun to ride, had gotten so used to the 36 tooth, swapping to the 32 tooth should make it even more fun on the trails!

    Attachment 799374Attachment 799375
    On flat ground and had the rear hub snap as I was taking off. Lost all forward and brake immediately, nice day, enjoyed the walk home. Harvested the spare rear wheel/hub from the second bike Pacific had sent to correct a cracked bottom bracket on the green one. Called Pacific and they indicated new forks, and rear wheels were coming in first of June, but would not be avilivble for sale immediately, were allotted to warranty issues first.($80.00 + Shipping for a complete rear wheel/Tire/Hub) Fortunately I'm underway again... And I still have my $19.99 3 year bumper to bumper warranty in my back pocket!

  27. #327
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    How about taking the hub apart and welding over the original weld to beef it up a bit before it breaks?

  28. #328
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    it's amazing that pacific is sending you guys any bikes or parts. when i called they had no answer other than to return it to a walmart store. happy for y'all.

  29. #329
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    Maybe re-weld the forks also before the original welds break?

  30. #330
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    It occurred to me that both of the "breakage" (BB axle, hub driver) fails are probably due to poor heat treating. If I was going to do anything preventive, I would try to repeat the heat treatment - but other than the standard "heat red hot, then quench in motor oil" I'm not sure what would work best. If I break a driver, I will reweld it and heat treat it like that.
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

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  31. #331
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    Does anyone know which Park tool (or any other brand) I need to remove the BB?

  32. #332
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    Any old screwdriver and hammer turns the lockring, then a big adjustable wrench on the flat shoulders of the non-drive side cup. The hard part for me was the drive side. Had to go find the GOOD crescent wrench. Don't forget [like I did] drive side is reverse threaded [clockwise to loosen]. I put the new YST cups on with needlenose pliers instead of the right tool but it worked fine.

  33. #333
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    Cool...thanks for the heads-up.

  34. #334
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    Quote Originally Posted by rss26Roger View Post
    Does anyone know which Park tool (or any other brand) I need to remove the BB?
    You need three tools; a hook spanner, a pin spanner, and a "round hole with 2 flats" tool. They usually are a set of two, with a combo on at least one of them.
    Park HCW4
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    Park HCW5
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    This is what I've got:
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    Attached Images Attached Images  
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

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  35. #335
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    or... in the spirit of how beastly the beast really is... all you need is a hammer, chisel, and vice grips. But seriously, the threading of my bottom bracket was so poor and I believe that the shell itself was out of round that the bottom bracket was very hard to turn out and re-install. The park tools might not be robust enough to handle the job. Be prepared for some frustration and be prepared to improvise.

  36. #336
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    Re: Mongoose Beast modifications

    Quote Originally Posted by bikeabuser View Post
    To late !!!
    Took it in this morning ... Besides ... It was an experiment in my mind, while waiting for the real Fat Bike to become available ... Fed Ex says it should arrive, tomorrow

    I'd have kept the goose, if Pacific didn't drag the heels ... A month is more than long enough to wait.

    On to the next One ... Goose solidified my thoughts ... Ideas firm at this point.

    Pic's and a new thread, soon.
    I check back in and what do I see but this :banghead:

    I won't say those 4 words. Welcome to the club I guess... now you can give advice to those who think cheap fat bikes will be the holy grail when a new one comes along... like many of us did for you when the goose got loose... and be told your an elite snob :thumbup: :beer:
    ...Be careful what you're looking at because it might be looking back...

  37. #337
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    Quote Originally Posted by duggus View Post
    I check back in and what do I see but this :banghead:

    I won't say those 4 words. Welcome to the club I guess... now you can give advice to those who think cheap fat bikes will be the holy grail when a new one comes along... like many of us did for you when the goose got loose... and be told your an elite snob :thumbup: :beer:
    I doubt you'll ever see the value a cheap bike possesses

  38. #338
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    Re: Mongoose Beast modifications

    Quote Originally Posted by bikeabuser View Post
    I doubt you'll ever see the value a cheap bike possesses
    Oh yes... I have a cheapo singlespeed road bike I got off Amazon for riding to work. Works great for that.
    ...Be careful what you're looking at because it might be looking back...

  39. #339
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    Quote Originally Posted by MiniTrail View Post
    cheap bikes become expensive ones when you try to make anything out of them

    I a few hundy in a free bike
    I hear you and do understand.
    This Beast did allow me to fully determine my desire for a FB, though ... It also gave me time to think about many aspects of bicycles in general, and frame design to get specific.
    I still want to build my own long wheelbase, FB camping/excursion bike, someday ... And as I said all along, anything thrown at the Beast would be done with the intent of eventually moving it to a different bike.
    Oh well ... It's gone, and I've moved on.

    Besides, my brazing technique still needs a lot of work.

  40. #340
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    Thanks for the tool recommendations...they are now on their way.

  41. #341
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    Quote Originally Posted by nagant View Post
    or... in the spirit of how beastly the beast really is... all you need is a hammer, chisel, and vice grips.

    ...Be prepared for some frustration and be prepared to improvise.
    Isn't that half the fun of a bike like the Walgoose? It doesn't matter if you stuff it up.
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
    Latitude: 57º36' Highlands, Scotland

  42. #342
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    Re: Mongoose Beast modifications

    My build


    Sent from my VS910 4G using Tapatalk 2

  43. #343
    gran jefe
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    that's where I'm going with mine, i think. longer stem and a layback seatpost, and a more reasonable gear ratio. what can you tell me about the seatpost?

  44. #344
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    That's just a 410mmThomson layback post, and 120mm Salsa stem. I'm 6'3" and the bike does not fit me properly, but for the fun I plan tho have on it, it will work just fine. Headed out now for its first trail ride.

  45. #345
    gran jefe
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    Ah, cool, I am also 6'3". Thanks.

  46. #346
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    Just got back from my first fat bike ride. FUN! I rode some pretty serious AZ chunk, and walked a good bit of steep climbs, but the bike was a blast. I would say it was money well spent. This bike is not even close to being a great performing fat bike, but man did it put a smile on my face. The coaster brake, and lack of a front brake really made for an exciting ride. If I want to go faster and walk less I have another bike for that, but that bike might be on garage duty for a while.

    I'll be drilling the rims and swapping out the heavy stock tubes next.

  47. #347
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    Quote Originally Posted by textbookonewk View Post
    My build


    Sent from my VS910 4G using Tapatalk 2
    Quote Originally Posted by textbookonewk View Post
    Just got back from my first fat bike ride. FUN! I rode some pretty serious AZ chunk, and walked a good bit of steep climbs, but the bike was a blast. I would say it was money well spent. This bike is not even close to being a great performing fat bike, but man did it put a smile on my face. The coaster brake, and lack of a front brake really made for an exciting ride. If I want to go faster and walk less I have another bike for that, but that bike might be on garage duty for a while.

    I'll be drilling the rims and swapping out the heavy stock tubes next.
    I thought I recognized that truck.

    I like the white pedals ... They look good !!!

  48. #348
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    I just got mine a week ago.
    I had the hubs and BB properly lubed at the LBS and went to work on it.
    Here's my goose:



    painted wheels black
    2 surly nate 27tpi tires
    20 tooth rear cog
    origin8 threaded to threadless quill
    truvativ 90mm stem
    truvativ handlebars
    origin8 seat

    This thing is a blast to romp around the local trails.
    Let it all hang out.

  49. #349
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    Nice, I like the black rims. I havent done much lately, but I did have a sweet temp mod yesterday. Caught me a couple bass
    Mongoose product development

  50. #350
    gran jefe
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    cheetah print sets and fishin' poles. good stuff.

  51. #351
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    Has anyone set up their Beast as a dingle speed? I'm curious about what kind of tensioner was used that worked well with the coaster brake.

  52. #352
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    Quote Originally Posted by rss26Roger View Post
    Has anyone set up their Beast as a dingle speed? I'm curious about what kind of tensioner was used that worked well with the coaster brake.
    Hmm. I thought that part of setting up a dinglespeed was to have the same tooth count (or close) on both, so you didn't have to mess with tensioners?

    Bigger problem would be getting 2 sprockets on the back - which would require a hub swap, methinks.
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

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  53. #353
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    Being that this is a hub braked bike I would think your only hope of running a tensioner would be one of the ones that are fixed like this one



    Having any sort of spring loaded thing in there is gonna mean your brakes don't work. I'd even be worried about a fixed one slipping.

    And as wadester said dingle is all about using a combination of front and rear chain rings that have the same total tooth count isn't it?

  54. #354
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    Even those can slip. I've tried it - once was enough.

    Basically if you need a tensioner then you shouldn't use a coaster or a fixed wheel. Magic ratio and halflinks are the only prospect with a normal coaster or fixed hub.
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
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  55. #355
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    Makes sense, thanks. How about an internally geared hub with coaster brake? Do any of you know of a good one that would be Beast compatible?

  56. #356
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    Quote Originally Posted by Velobike View Post
    Even those can slip. I've tried it - once was enough.

    Basically if you need a tensioner then you shouldn't use a coaster or a fixed wheel. Magic ratio and halflinks are the only prospect with a normal coaster or fixed hub.
    Or they can pry open your dropout.

    I have never tried it myself, but there is the ghost ring method also. Can't speak to its reliability
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  57. #357
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    Quote Originally Posted by rss26Roger View Post
    Makes sense, thanks. How about an internally geared hub with coaster brake? Do any of you know of a good one that would be Beast compatible?
    The only IGH that will fit:
    Wide Hub - 3 Speed/Disc SLVR - Cycles U.S. LLC/Choppers U.S.

    170mm wide sturmey archer 3 speed - but with a disc brake rather than coaster, so you also need a caliper mount adapter.
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

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  58. #358
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    Assembled, adjusted all bearings and greased up the new Goose Lander plus swapped out to a 22 tooth rear cog and a longer seat post. So far so good, been out on a handful of off road 10 - 25 mile loops. I've been going easy by not really stomping on the pedals for fear of busting the rear hub drive. I'm 6'1' and personally I like the geometry of the Beast.

    I have a Shimano Nexus 8 speed internal gear hub with coaster brake on order which I'm going to lace up next. It will need a spacer since it's only around 132mm and the rear dropouts are about 162mm. Thumpy69 has been helpful with some insight on this.

    Up to now for $240, I'm floatin & gloatin! This cheap chinese junker is not good for those with no mechanical skills. I look at it as a frame and set of rims for $200. I'm gonna slowly tweak and experiment until I get the Beast Lander in shape for some heavier abuse.

  59. #359
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Motocross View Post
    I have a Shimano Nexus 8 speed internal gear hub with coaster brake on order which I'm going to lace up next. It will need a spacer since it's only around 132mm and the rear dropouts are about 162mm.
    The goose frame is just plain hi-carbon steel, easy and safe to permanently coldset the rear triangle down to fit a narrower hub so no flimpy axel spacer is needed. You could do the coldsetting slighlty asymetrically to get the chainline strait, get good chain/tire clearance and get the spoke dishing more even.

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    Re: Mongoose Beast modifications

    Built another for a buddy


    Sent from my VS910 4G using Tapatalk 2

  61. #361
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    Quote Originally Posted by wadester View Post
    The only IGH that will fit:
    Wide Hub - 3 Speed/Disc SLVR - Cycles U.S. LLC/Choppers U.S.

    170mm wide sturmey archer 3 speed - but with a disc brake rather than coaster, so you also need a caliper mount adapter.
    this may also work on this set up if you decide to go that route. 2 Bicycle F R Disc Brake Brackets Buy 2 Pieces for $31 99 | eBay but there is another thread where a guy made a bracket for his beast to mount a caliper

  62. #362
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  63. #363
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    Mongoose Beast modifications-2013-06-09-20-52-08.jpg

  64. #364
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  65. #365
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    What crank did you use to replace the stock one?
    Let it all hang out.

  66. #366
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    Re: Mongoose Beast modifications

    Any old square taper crank should work. I used an old XT M750 on mine.

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  67. #367
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    I have been a running a beast for about three weeks now. I've been doing 15 to 25 mile off-road loops on it. So far so good. I started out babying it quite a bit as I was worried about blowing up the rear hub or crank. I've progressively been beating on it more and it's held together. I am 190 pounds and 6'1" so I needed a longer seat post. I am running the stock 36 tooth sprocket in front and a 23 tooth cog in the rear, this suits me pretty well. You need to add a couple links to the chain to fit the larger cog. The bottom bracket is an obvious issue as lots of debris can get in there easy. I cleaned all the sand out the other day and re-greased the bearings. I've made a makeshift semi-seal out of some poly tubing.I've been impressed enough with the bike to purchase a second bike as a project bike. I got a Shimano Nexus eight speed hub with a coaster brake to string up. I had to do a little custom job in extending the axle so I could get the chain line right. I used one of the nuts that came with the hub as a coupling nut by chopping of the end. I then robbed a little chunk off another old axle to use as an extension.With this configuration the chain line is straight and the hub fits well. Note the coaster brake arm is not near close to where it needs to be.Next was lacing the wheel. Since the hub is off set, I needed to string the wheel off set as well. This required drilling a few more spoke holes in the rim.I ended up using 252mm length spokes on the drive side and 248mm on the brake side. If I were to do it again I would use 252 and 250mm.I had to pull the coaster brake lever off the hub and put it in a vice to bend it enough to line up properly.Bottom line:Beast $200
    Hub & shifter $200
    23 tooth cog $10
    Taxes & shipping $40
    So I am into the eight speed beast $450. For me, this bike has been great.
    Last edited by Joe Motocross; 06-18-2013 at 03:59 AM.

  68. #368
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    Hmmm...

    I don't think the axle extension will work out, ultimately. However, it is a very creative project nonetheless.
    Most people ply the Well Trodden Path. A few seek a different way, and leave a Trail behind.
    - John Hajny, a.k.a. TrailMaker

  69. #369
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    Nice job!!

  70. #370
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    Oh yeah, I forgot $20 for spokes. $470, still not bad for a geared fat bike.

    I have complete confidence in my makeshift axle extension. I thought I might turn a custom coupling nut on a lathe but I don't think it's necesary.

    Bottom bracket and crank are much more likely to give me problems is my guess.

  71. #371
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    I contemplated trying a similar bodge for an axle extension idea myself, but chickened out. I figure that a failure could be a bit nasty.

    If you do end up making an extension, I reckon you'll have a ready market - once you've tested it The inability to use a hubgear on a 170mm rear is a major hindrance at the moment.
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
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  72. #372
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    Very cool ... I hope it stands up to a bit of abuse 'cause 8 gears on that thing is exactly what it needs.

  73. #373
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    My question has always been...

    I like the concept, as we all likely have a love/hate relationship with the derailleur. However, is an IGH really up to the rigors of real all mountain trail riding without copious service, or are they only suited for moderate aventuring?
    Most people ply the Well Trodden Path. A few seek a different way, and leave a Trail behind.
    - John Hajny, a.k.a. TrailMaker

  74. #374
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    I'd say that depends on what you define as "mountain trail riding", which IGH you are using, and how adept you are to servicing the thing properly and regularly.

    The Rolhoff is MTB rated, but very expensive, and some of the old 3 speed jobs ... Well, I broke one on the street, as a teenager.

  75. #375
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    I think a better approach than extending axle, bending coaster arm would have been to cold-set the left chainstay/seatstay of the 170mm rear end down an offset 135mm width. Steel frames are entirely amenable to such modification. Make the cheap, disposable frame fit your nice IG hub, not the other way around.

  76. #376
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    Quote Originally Posted by TrailMaker View Post
    My question has always been...

    I like the concept, as we all likely have a love/hate relationship with the derailleur. However, is an IGH really up to the rigors of real all mountain trail riding without copious service, or are they only suited for moderate aventuring?
    Almost all hubgears depend on the axle remaining true because it is basically the mainshaft of a gearbox, and if you bend it then everything is thrown out of mesh. Plus a lot of hubgear axles have a fairly large slot internally for the gear change mechanism.

    Most hubgears I have seen "broken" are because the adjustment was not set properly. They need to be set to the mark, not twiddled until it is "good enough". Dud cables are also a common factor.

    I've never broken one in decades of riding offroad, but my riding is more aimed at getting me somewhere than thrilling gravity heroics.
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
    Latitude: 57º36' Highlands, Scotland

  77. #377
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    Recent shot of Donatello. Swapped on some Sunlite tires for an upcoming long late night street ride and the Brooks. Also ESI grips to combat a Latex allergy. It was the hit of the local ride and BBQ as most hadn't seen one in person.
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  78. #378
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    My trail work beast

    Built this one up to haul trail gear since my trail only has access at two points.

    I used:
    Stock Beast Frame

    Customized Howitzer BB and crank
    Custom built wheels (Sun BFR rims on a leftover rear hub for front, Rocky mountain 150mm hub for the rear, tires are stock)
    Moonlander Fork
    Funn disk brakes (custom built rear mount)
    Thomson post
    Cheap and leftover handlebars, pedals, seat, etc
    Rear rack is a transit, Ammo cans for panniers
    Front is a Wald "paperboy" rack

    Works great, hauls a lot of weight, weighs slightly more than stock.



    <a href="http://s253.photobucket.com/user/redhawk_08/media/20130509_200249_zps0361fabe.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh41/redhawk_08/20130509_200249_zps0361fabe.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20130509_200249_zps0361fabe.jpg"/></a>

  79. #379
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    ^That's really nice!^

  80. #380
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    howdy guys new to the forum and just ordered (2) Mongoose beasts for the wife and I. I am a big guy 6'3" 290 and she is a big gal better not say but you get the idea.. I have been reading through all your bike science and was blown away. Anyway I would like to make some inital mods to the bikes and was seeking some input. Info on what BB and Cranks, sprockets, layback seat posts and seats to make the bikes enjoyable as possible to ride. Maybe later do some speeds if you guys come up with an easy mod for it. Anyway all help is greatly appreciated. thanks,

  81. #381
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    Quote Originally Posted by CruJonez View Post
    Built this one up to haul trail gear since my trail only has access at two points.

    Damn fine setup

  82. #382
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    Great rig, CruJones.

  83. #383
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    Thanks guys, I chose the Howitzer BB and crank because I already had the crank lying around and they are tough as nails. The BB needed minimal modification to work with the frame, basically I replaced the sealed bearings with some slightly narrower ones because the insert on the stock bearings was too wide for the frame width. I have a plan to add 8spd setup but it is down the road a bit. I will need a side roller setup to keep the chain out of the tire in the lowest gear, it seemed to clear 1-7 fine running a spacer behind the cassette on the 8/9 hub. My tire profile is slightly narrower on the BFR rims, measuring 3.8" with the micrometer, so that helps. I used an axle bolt on derailleur hanger for my test fit. I plan to use the other side sliding dropout from the set I used to build the brake mount. They were fairly easy to modify to bolt onto the huge dropouts on the back of this frame. I did have to open up the rear dropouts a bit with a die grinder to get the 12mm axle to slide in. It was fairly time consuming to do that and keep them the same on both sides of the frame.

  84. #384
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    CruJonez, could You show pix of brake mount? I'd like to try disc on the rear also. Is this the brake? BlueSkyCycling.com - Funn EZR Mechanical Disc Brake w/ Rotor Also, did You bend the frame to make the 150mm hub fit? These are significant achievements in Beast re-engineering worthy of documentation. Thank You and congratulations.

  85. #385
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    These are the best I can do right now, The brake mount also serves as a spacer for the axle to fit the frame. Those are the brakes, they periodically run the on sale for $12 each which is a better deal to me since you can order BB5 sets out of hong kong for $50 full set.

    This mount works well for the riding I am doing, if it were going to be ridden harder I would drill another hole to secure the dropout to the frame, it doesn't move or flex the way I have it, but I also haven't abused it, the bike is too heavy to go fast, especially when loaded up.

    <a href="http://s253.photobucket.com/user/redhawk_08/media/20130629_150939_zps489dc9b7.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh41/redhawk_08/20130629_150939_zps489dc9b7.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20130629_150939_zps489dc9b7.jpg"/></a>

    <a href="http://s253.photobucket.com/user/redhawk_08/media/20130629_150949_zps5fdd86f2.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh41/redhawk_08/20130629_150949_zps5fdd86f2.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20130629_150949_zps5fdd86f2.jpg"/></a>

    The dropout is from a Diamondback Assault, it was the least expensive I could find with the required dimensions.

  86. #386
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    Name:  41BNUoEudCL__SX385_.jpg
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    Dropouts I used

  87. #387
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    Where did you get those dropouts from?

  88. #388
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    Quote Originally Posted by jnl1105 View Post
    Where did you get those dropouts from?
    Quote Originally Posted by CruJonez View Post
    The dropout is from a Diamondback Assault, it was the least expensive I could find with the required dimensions.
    the dropout idea is great. easily available, flat, and has the right mounting holes for the calipers.

  89. #389
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    did you have them laying around or did you order them, do you happen to have a part number?

  90. #390
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    Quote Originally Posted by whizone View Post
    howdy guys new to the forum and just ordered (2) Mongoose beasts for the wife and I. I am a big guy 6'3" 290 and she is a big gal better not say but you get the idea.. I have been reading through all your bike science and was blown away. Anyway I would like to make some inital mods to the bikes and was seeking some input. Info on what BB and Cranks, sprockets, layback seat posts and seats to make the bikes enjoyable as possible to ride. Maybe later do some speeds if you guys come up with an easy mod for it. Anyway all help is greatly appreciated. thanks,
    I'd start with just changing the rear cog out to a 22t to lower the gearing, from there it really depends on where you plan on riding and personal preferance.
    Mongoose product development

  91. #391
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    Yeah those are cool brake mounts

  92. #392
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    I got them on amazon, search Raleigh America Diamondback Derailleur Hanger-2 (Black) only 2 sets left.

  93. #393
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    Still working on my Beast...more pictures to come, hope you guys like it.

    Mongoose Beast modifications-beast-2.jpg
    Mongoose Beast modifications-sam_4154.jpg
    Mongoose Beast modifications-sam_4358.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Mongoose Beast modifications-img_0556.jpg  

    Last edited by SJbikefanatic; 07-19-2013 at 11:25 AM.

  94. #394
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    Gads;

    The doodads I see in the picture quintuple the price of the bike!
    Most people ply the Well Trodden Path. A few seek a different way, and leave a Trail behind.
    - John Hajny, a.k.a. TrailMaker

  95. #395
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    Quote Originally Posted by SJbikefanatic View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    How did you work the BB/Crank install? Trim down the housing, or it just worked?

    Sweet bike!
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

    WSS/OSS: Open Source Sealant

  96. #396
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    I trimmed the non-drive side about 10mm and I used the Race Face Turbine. The crank arms will clear the chain stays with about 5mm to spare. Thanks for asking.

  97. #397
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    Finally picked up a Beast out of curiosity. There's lot os OK parts and lots of crap parts. One of the crap parts is that rear hub...it is already clicking & clanging. It also feels real loose. I've only put about 30-40 miles on the bike, all pretty fun stuff going over curbs, big rocks, etc. I'm concerns about this hub though, does anyone know if there exists a replacement? I've scoured these threads and I haven't turned up much. Thanks.

  98. #398
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    call the 800 number down by the BB. I also had a bad rear hub. They sent me a complete replacement bike and told me to keep the original for parts. Now I have two.
    1993 Trek Multitrack 700
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  99. #399
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    Thanks Thumpy, I will try that and see what they say. I just got back from a little 5mi trail spin on the thing...wow it is a workout to say the least. Fun as hell, but definitely a work out. Plus it is 90 in Ohio at this very moment so that didn't help.

  100. #400
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    Finally, took the Beast out on the trail!

    Mongoose Beast modifications-img_0556.jpg

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