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  1. #101
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    Misfit FU2 bars,crank bros loc on grips,mongoose stem I had.
    Origin 8 quill adapter..
    Red stripes on wheels with pinstripe tape...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Mongoose Beast modifications-dsc01285.jpg  

    Mongoose Beast modifications-dsc01289.jpg  


  2. #102
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    Undergroundvelo Decal....
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Mongoose Beast modifications-dsc01266.jpg  


  3. #103
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    Nice, I like it.

  4. #104
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    I'm not sure which quill adapter I need.

    Will either of these work? If so, is one better than the other?

    Amazon.com: Profile Design Threadless Converter (1 - 1/8-Inch): Sports & Outdoors

    Amazon.com: Origin8 1-1/8" Threaded to 1-1/8" Threadless Quill Stem Adapter: Sports & Outdoors

    If these won't work, please point me to one that will.

    Thanks!
    Out to ride

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Endomorph View Post
    I'm not sure which quill adapter I need.

    Will either of these work? If so, is one better than the other?

    Amazon.com: Profile Design Threadless Converter (1 - 1/8-Inch): Sports & Outdoors

    Amazon.com: Origin8 1-1/8" Threaded to 1-1/8" Threadless Quill Stem Adapter: Sports & Outdoors

    If these won't work, please point me to one that will.

    Thanks!
    Bottom one. The fork is 1-1/8"
    Quote Originally Posted by Hesh to Steel
    With people liking mongoose and trek bikes now, what's next in this crazy world? People disliking the bottlerocket?!

  6. #106
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    Ordered one for my son. Came today. True: Every bearing over-tightened. Disassemble front and rear axles, clean and re-grease and properly tighten. Remove fork, clean races, re-grease, reassemble properly tightened. Frame rust-treated with Fluid Flilm. Yet to do: Disassemble BB, clean, inspect bearings, properly reassemble. Yet to do: seal tubes with homemade "Stans." Yet to do down the road: order a 22 tooth rear cog and replace the 18 tooth stock cog.

    About what I expected from Wally World. I think my boy will have a blast with it, though.

  7. #107
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    Out to ride

  8. #108
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    The Sturmey is what you're looking for w/ three spline design. The stock KMC chain is 3/32 not 1/8*

    I have not changed the rear cog so I don't personally know if a 1/8" is compatible. Others seem to have had no problem.

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by kbollox View Post
    The Sturmey is what you're looking for w/ three spline design. The stock KMC chain is 3/32 not 1/8
    I'm confused. Isn't the chain on the Beast 1/8 inch?
    Last edited by Larry Endomorph; 04-16-2013 at 12:37 PM. Reason: clarity
    Out to ride

  10. #110
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    I swear it used to say 3/32 on the Wally site, now it isn't listed. It's definately a KMC Z chain - the only other thing printed on it is "2L-2"

  11. #111
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    Out to ride

  12. #112
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    My Beast So Far

    Mongoose Beast modifications-beast-wheels.jpg

    So far, I've added a threadless stem adapter, stem and carbon DH bars I had lying around. Also added a new seatpost/seat and clipless pedals.

    Drilled the rims (my first time doing this) and put on some Devist8er tires with regular old 26x2.35 tubes.

    It's WAY lighter (still heavy though) and I've actually taken it out a few times on some real singletrack and I have to say, it's a blast!

    That being said, I had a pedal strike on a rock yesterday, ate sh*t and bent the BB spindle.

    Any ideas where I can get a replacement?

  13. #113
    gran jefe
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    we think this is it. it has internal threads on the end instead of studs, but seems to be close enough otherwise.
    Extra Wide Bottom Bracket Axle - Cycles U.S. LLC/Choppers U.S.

    while you're at it, google yst cup and bearing kit, and see if you want to spend another 8 bucks to replace the bearings.

    I like your bike. I want to do pretty much the same thing with mine once I get it. I'll need a smaller rear cog, too, to ride up some of the steep stuff around here.


    edit - rumor has it that that part doesn't work
    Mongoose Beast review etc.... Walmart Fatty!
    Last edited by Bill in Houston; 04-25-2013 at 12:48 PM.

  14. #114
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    I like your bike. I want to do pretty much the same thing with mine once I get it. I'll need a smaller rear cog, too, to ride up some of the steep stuff around here.[/QUOTE]

    Oh yeah, I put a 20t cog on it (which makes it rideable on actual trails.

    The black paint job was an eipc fail. I'm hoping to do a nice paint job on it this weekend. Maybe white frame with lime green wheels? =)

    Thanks for the tip on the spindle. I think I'll go ahead and order one and maybe the bearing cups as well.

  15. #115
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    shoot, man, i meant a bigger cog. based on the ratios i find myself using on my current mtb, i am going to switch the front crank to 32t and the rear to 23t. if that is too tall, i'll go 22t in front, and the original 18t in back. i'll spin out in a hurry on the flats, but i figure what's the use of tons of traction on hills if i can't turn the pedals?

    I want to paint mine too. I'm thinking flat orange. I'm hoping the flat/satin will look cool and help hide my poor painting skills.

    Can't go wrong with lime green wheels! With white or yellow gorilla tape in the holes.

  16. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Hannoonen View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	beast wheels.jpg 
Views:	20520 
Size:	141.3 KB 
ID:	792007...That being said, I had a pedal strike on a rock yesterday, ate sh*t and bent the BB spindle....
    No no no! You're new here obviously. Try again, something like this...

    Climbing a steep rock yesterday, my gorilla legs put so much power through the pedals that I bent the BB spindle.
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
    Latitude: 5736' Highlands, Scotland

  17. #117
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    Friday night and a couple cans of spray paint

    Here's what ended up happening.

    I like it, although my gf doesn't get it. First thing she said was "Why are there polka dots on the wheels?"

    Mongoose Beast modifications-image.jpg

  18. #118
    gran jefe
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    pretty spiffy. your gf is hilarious.

  19. #119
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    My Walbeast came with a bent spindle. Perhaps I need to strike it on a rock to straighten it out.

  20. #120
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    WTF? It didn't fall apart??

  21. #121
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    I've bent mine also ... It seems to be the weak link.

  22. #122
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    Nice work Jim! Is that a Finnish last name?

    I'm gonna go ride now.

  23. #123
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    Looked this morning;

    No Fat at the local WallyMart yet.....
    -
    -
    -
    (well... besides the clientele. )
    Most people ply the Well Trodden Path. A few seek a different way, and leave a Trail behind.
    - John Hajny, a.k.a. TrailMaker

  24. #124
    gran jefe
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    Quote Originally Posted by Houndog45 View Post
    WTF? It didn't fall apart??
    I'm sure it did, but he's lying about it. I was told that these things fall apart immediately.

    Quote Originally Posted by bikeabuser View Post
    I've bent mine also ... It seems to be the weak link.
    To repair the spindle, maybe find a blacksmith. It's beyond the scope of a bike shop. Seriously, I can't believe you guys bent them... it's apparently so long it needs another bearing righ in the middle.

    Quote Originally Posted by TrailMaker View Post
    Looked this morning;

    No Fat at the local WallyMart yet.....
    -
    -
    -
    (well... besides the clientele. )
    Same situation here, both bike-wise and clientele-wise.

  25. #125
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    I see the new Vee Rubber Vee 8s are being sold at Jenson.I'm really on the fence about the Walgoose...
    I like 'em, but if it's gonna be super hard for me to pedal with my prosthetic foot, then it won't work for me.Is it really hard to pedal one even after re-gearing?
    Vee Rubber Vee 8 Tire > V > Vee Rubber | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop
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  26. #126
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    Yo zarr, I think you'll be happier having a bike with gears. Single speed will be difficult unless you plan on just riding flat, non-varying terrain. You can gear a bike for anything but it's only good for that one condition that you geared it for. I think with your leg, you'll want to switch gears depending on where you ride and fatigue-factor. Also it has a coaster brake which requires you back-pedal to stop the bike. You probably want hand brakes

  27. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by AC/BC View Post
    Yo zarr, I think you'll be happier having a bike with gears. Single speed will be difficult unless you plan on just riding flat, non-varying terrain. You can gear a bike for anything but it's only good for that one condition that you geared it for. I think with your leg, you'll want to switch gears depending on where you ride and fatigue-factor. Also it has a coaster brake which requires you back-pedal to stop the bike. You probably want hand brakes
    I hear ya,no Walbeast for me.I'll stick with my 650b projects for something new.
    Hope everybody who got the Beast enjoys them.I have to pass I think.
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  28. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill in Houston View Post
    To repair the spindle, maybe find a blacksmith. It's beyond the scope of a bike shop. Seriously, I can't believe you guys bent them... it's apparently so long it needs another bearing righ in the middle.
    It's not unrideable, but I've got access to TIG, so I'll probably cut, and extend another square drive, while beefing the center, to reduce flex.

  29. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by AC/BC View Post
    ...I think you'll be happier having a bike with gears. Single speed will be difficult unless you plan on just riding flat, non-varying terrain...
    I think you'll find a substantial number of people who will disagree with that, starting with me.

    The only reason I put gears on my fatbike is for winter riding through bogs and deep snow. The rest of the time they are unnecessary. If you look at some of the pics I have posted, you won't see any flat non-varying terrain, and I'm nothing special as a rider.

    A fatbike without gears is able to be used in ways you'd hesitate to use a geared bike for fear of damaging the transmission.
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
    Latitude: 5736' Highlands, Scotland

  30. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by Velobike View Post
    I think you'll find a substantial number of people who will disagree with that, starting with me.

    The only reason I put gears on my fatbike is for winter riding through bogs and deep snow. The rest of the time they are unnecessary. If you look at some of the pics I have posted, you won't see any flat non-varying terrain, and I'm nothing special as a rider.

    A fatbike without gears is able to be used in ways you'd hesitate to use a geared bike for fear of damaging the transmission.

    FWIW, the comment I made was really directed by the fact that the OP has one leg. I don't have one leg, but if I did, I wouldn't want this bike. Even if he's fine with one gear, there is still the fact that it's coaster brake and I think that would be very difficult to operate, but maybe not?


    I guess my advice is to buy one, get a smaller gear. If it doesn't work out then return it. Walmart accepts returns up to 2 months after purchase



    .

  31. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by AC/BC View Post
    FWIW, the comment I made was really directed by the fact that the OP has one leg...
    Sorry. Forgot that.
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
    Latitude: 5736' Highlands, Scotland

  32. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by Velobike View Post
    I think you'll find a substantial number of people who will disagree with that, starting with me.

    The only reason I put gears on my fatbike is for winter riding through bogs and deep snow. The rest of the time they are unnecessary. If you look at some of the pics I have posted, you won't see any flat non-varying terrain, and I'm nothing special as a rider.

    A fatbike without gears is able to be used in ways you'd hesitate to use a geared bike for fear of damaging the transmission.
    Yes, I only have one real foot...that's why Bike Abuser gave me the advice.
    I'd like to have a fatbike,but I have to realize there's gonna be some bike things I will no longer be able to do now that I lost my foot.
    ...And guys,take good care of your feet,OK? One big cut can later lead to amputation later on.No walking around bare-footed outdooors,OK?
    OK.Mine was diabetes related,though.
    Z
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  33. #133
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    What's the fork situation it looks to be a 1" threaded quill style? Would love to swap it over to my Enabler fork.
    Mr. Krabs: Is it true, Squidward? Is it hilarious?

  34. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Pink57 View Post
    What's the fork situation it looks to be a 1" threaded quill style? Would love to swap it over to my Enabler fork.
    1 1/8" threaded, to swap a modern fork you'd only need to change the headset.
    I put a sweet NOS MTB Tioga Avender threaded on with a longer quill stem:

    Mongoose Beast modifications-imag0231_zpsec015f63.jpg

  35. #135
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    Have you guys seen these? Bolt-on cantilever brake bosses.

    Adrenaline Bikes

    You should buy some and let me know how you like them.
    Last edited by Jim Hannoonen; 04-23-2013 at 09:07 AM. Reason: added cntent

  36. #136
    gran jefe
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    I like it, I like it... Been hoping to find them a little cheaper. Still have not seen anyone post the fork diameter to confirm that clamp-on posts will fit.

  37. #137
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    Mongoose Beast modifications-beast-brakes.jpg

    Here's a pic of that Beast that guy was riding at the Sea Otter with what look to be the same mounts.

  38. #138
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    Universal Cycle has them too. Universal Cycles -- Identiti Clamp-On Brake Mounts



    Some should call and ask what the inner diameter is of the clamp.



  39. #139
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  40. #140
    gran jefe
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    i just drooled in my keyboard.

  41. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Endomorph View Post
    Update: I tried the Sturmey-Archer. It doesn't fit. It is too thick. Not enough room to get the snap ring back on. I don't have the tools to grind the cog down.

    So, still looking.
    Out to ride

  42. #142
    gran jefe
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    So you need to find one that specifies 3/32? Is that the solution?

  43. #143
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    Thanks AC/BC. Ordered mine @ U.C. $38+$3 Shipping. Will report results next week.

  44. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by AC/BC View Post
    Some should call and ask what the inner diameter is of the clamp.
    Identiti who manufactures the fork these are supposed to fit on list the diameter of the fork legs as 31.8mm, so 1-1/4" OD.
    Identiti Bikes -Forks - Rebate Park forks. - Product Information

    For much less cost than these adapters, you could use a hacksaw to salvage the cantilever bosses off an old junk steel frame, hand-miter them to fit the fatgoose fork legs and chainstays and then have them permanently TIG welded or brazed on.

  45. #145
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    22T rear cog

    For those of you who can't seem to find a 3/32 22T rear cog but can find a 1/8 22T cog, here's an easy fix. If you have a drill press and can get your hands on and end mill bit, it is pretty easy to mill off that 1/32 from the concave side flat surface so the ring will snap in. I completed the operation today. (mill the side that faces out so the offset stays correct.)

    End mill: Redirect Notice first picture.

    mill the surface away gradually and keep checking the fit. You can get it just right.

    I had to add a link to the chain from another chain sitting around, because the 22T is big enough to make the stock chain too tight.

    The difference in pedaling is immediately noticeable. It will be a bunch more fun to ride with the 22T cog and a lot easier on hills.

  46. #146
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    Easy& cheap source for a wide variety of 3/32 width cogs is to disassemble an old shimano or SRAM casette that uses all individual cogs (no alloy carrier like on the nicer casettes). Casette cogs use 9 splines but you can file off 6 of them leaving three splines in the same pattern needed.

  47. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by GrayJay View Post
    Easy& cheap source for a wide variety of 3/32 width cogs is to disassemble an old shimano or SRAM casette that uses all individual cogs (no alloy carrier like on the nicer casettes). Casette cogs use 9 splines but you can file off 6 of them leaving three splines in the same pattern needed.
    The cogs for this hub are a different drive pattern:
    Name:  nexux-cog.jpg
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    Name:  mid_461059.gif
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    I note that Amazon has shimano Nexus 3/32" cogs, 22T for $7.23 shipped.
    Amazon.com: Shimano SG-7C20 Nexus Sprocket (22T): Sports & Outdoors
    Attached Images Attached Images
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

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  48. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by wadester View Post
    The cogs for this hub are a different drive pattern
    Assuming the fatgoose uses same cogs for IG hubs, the 9 splines of a casette cog are easily rectified with a file or dremmel! see: Internal-Gear Hubs

    Best part is that you could go so something like a 28 or 32 tooth rear cog for serious snow/beach/rock crawling. SS IG cogs dont typically come so large.

  49. #149
    gran jefe
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    the gear on top is dished, while the one on bottom is flat. does this matter? i know my way around a dremel.

  50. #150
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    I have the dished cog, and it helped my chainline, but that"ll depend on what cranks
    One uses. The gif. Below those pix I think shows a spacer which may / may not help or fit.
    It would be nice to have an LBS that doesn't mind that You bought at Wal-Mart. Mine would ban me for life.
    Thanks for the tip GrayJay,with a wheeled tensioner or a few quick-connect links, one could even carry a set of diff. Cogs and switch them on a ride.

  51. #151
    gran jefe
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    Quote Originally Posted by dudeist View Post
    I have the dished cog, and it helped my chainline, but that"ll depend on what cranks
    One uses. The gif. Below those pix I think shows a spacer which may / may not help or fit.
    Cool, thank you.


    Quote Originally Posted by dudeist View Post
    It would be nice to have an LBS that doesn't mind that You bought at Wal-Mart. Mine would ban me for life.
    Mine scoffed at me for buying a spoke wrench. I can't imagine that they'd be interested in treating me like a human being if they knew what I was using the parts on.


    Quote Originally Posted by dudeist View Post
    Thanks for the tip GrayJay,with a wheeled tensioner or a few quick-connect links, one could even carry a set of diff. Cogs and switch them on a ride.
    mmm, coaster brake means you gotta go the quick connect route. for about $70 you could switch to rim brakes in back, though.

  52. #152
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    Cheapskate dinglespeed recipie for a 2X singlespeed drivetrain;

    Get an old 5-speed freewheel on the back (25mm wide) and put a nicer crank on the front that has two different chainrings. Select two cogs on the freewheel like a 26 and a 20 and set up the freewheel with these two cogs and whatever spacers are needed to keep them in position at appropriate chainline so you have a 2-speed freewheel. Select the two front chainrings for the same difference in tooth count, so like 32t and 28t. This gives you two different chainlines with same chain length but two different gear ratios. Use a tensioner so that you can leave enough slack in the chain, so that the chain can be manually switched between the two chainlines without loosening the wheel or changing chain length. Takes all of about 10 seconds to hop off and perform a quick trailside tool-free gear change!

    You might even be able to get three different gears out of such a setup but finding/making a tensioner to accomidate three different chainlines is more problematic, chainline interference with fat tire to consider and the selection of three usefull equivalent length gearsets if a bit more involved, requires purchasing a few non-standard chainrings.

  53. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by dudeist View Post
    It would be nice to have an LBS that doesn't mind that You bought at Wal-Mart. Mine would ban me for life.
    Ha! I picked mine up at the fedex storefront - and took it to the LBS. Pulled it out of the box and put it together right there - they loaned me tools and recycled the box. They all got a kick out of it.
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

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  54. #154
    gran jefe
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    dudeist recreated manual beastly's canti setup
    http://undergroundvelo.proboards.com...tenment#page=2

  55. #155
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    The Latest Beast Casualty

    Busted the driver in the rear hub yesterday while torquing up a hill.

    I thought I'd busted my chain, but alas, when I looked down, it was still in tact, but the cranks were spinning freely.

    After taking it apart when I got home, I found the driver had busted where it was welded. I'm assuming the weld is to make it long enough.


    Mongoose Beast modifications-driver.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Mongoose Beast modifications-driverii.jpg  

    Last edited by Jim Hannoonen; 05-01-2013 at 12:34 PM.

  56. #156
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Hannoonen View Post
    Busted the driver in the rear hub yesterday while really torquing up a hill.
    Yikes! I suppose that this explains whey they didnt spec the fatgoose with a lower gear ratio more appropriate for fat bike conditions, higher torque delivered to the hub driver would make it even more prone to snap.
    Seems like a conversion to threaded or casette hub, and addition of disk or rim brakes replacing the coaster hub is likely a must-do for hard riding on these.

  57. #157
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Hannoonen View Post

    I sent an email to Pacific bike (with picture) to bring this to their attention, as it seems like it could be a pretty big safety issue for them
    More like a pretty big safety issue for YOU. Or anyone else that wants to ride one of these in the woods. Or on roads that have hills.

  58. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by SmooveP View Post
    More like a pretty big safety issue for YOU. Or anyone else that wants to ride one of these in the woods. Or on roads that have hills.
    Meh. I'll take my chances.

  59. #159
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    did you lose the ability to brake when this piece broke?

  60. #160
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill in Houston View Post
    did you lose the ability to brake when this piece broke?
    The coarsely threaded end runs a nut back'N'forth - pedal forward and it clamps the driver to the hub, both tension and torsion on the driver. pedal backwards and it jams a tapered edge into the brake shoes and spreads them against the hub shell. If it breaks you got nuttin' at all.

    OTOH, based on the condition of these on delivery I'm betting quality on all parts is all over the place. Most normal width coaster brake hubs outlast mucho abuse. We'll see if this is an outlier or state-of-the-art. I see http://www.choppersus.com Wide-Hub-CB-Low-Flange-BLK/ for $30 if ya wanna "upgrade".
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

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  61. #161
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    Quote Originally Posted by wadester View Post
    If it breaks you got nuttin' at all.
    Well, you still have your Fred Flintstone brakes. It also occurred to me that if you're contemplating the add-on canti brakes, that the rims are not designed with a braking surface. Yeah, there's a flat vertical surface there, but probably not all that flat, and probably not reinforced. It will be interesting to see what kind of performance and durability people are getting out of that mod...

  62. #162
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    Quote Originally Posted by wadester View Post
    If it breaks you got nuttin' at all.
    I was afraid you were going to say that. I guess the "good" news is that it's most likely to break on an uphill.

    Quote Originally Posted by wadester View Post
    Most normal width coaster brake hubs outlast mucho abuse. I see http://www.choppersus.com Wide-Hub-CB-Low-Flange-BLK/ for $30 if ya wanna "upgrade".
    They have one with a disc flange on it. It would be cool to go that direction with it.

  63. #163
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    Quote Originally Posted by wadester View Post
    I see http://www.choppersus.com Wide-Hub-CB-Low-Flange-BLK/ for $30 if ya wanna "upgrade".
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill in Houston View Post
    They have one with a disc flange on it. It would be cool to go that direction with it.
    Yes, but unless you're taking a flame wrench to the frame you'll need something like this:

    Brake Therapy Conversion Kit

    Name:  12575.jpg
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    Except that it uses a cantilever boss to take the load.


    Quote Originally Posted by Bill in Houston View Post
    I was afraid you were going to say that. I guess the "good" news is that it's most likely to break on an uphill.
    Good point! When the brakes are on, the driver is in compression and the torgue is between the axle and the hub shell.
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

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  64. #164
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    Quote Originally Posted by wadester View Post
    Yes, but unless you're taking a flame wrench to the frame you'll need something like this:

    Except that it uses a cantilever boss to take the load.
    yeah, yeah. i need a friend who can weld.

    dudeist over here found a pretty sweet bolt-on canti post.
    A Beast's Enlightenment | The UNDERGROUND!

    adding disks is beyond my desired degree of difficulty, bc of the welding thing, but I can see adding front and rear cantis.

  65. #165
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    Hello, Jim Hannoonen, sorry to hear about Your drivetrain troubles, and thanks for sharing them with Us. I've been too busy
    working on my Wal-Beast to go for a real ride on it, but I did manage to pedal it hard enuf to slip the rear axle forward in the dropout, throwing the chain. Now I wonder if I
    should get better washers, or leave it as a safety feature.
    I'm also wondering, are You of above average weight and/ or leg strength, or does a
    190 lb., 50 year old geezer like me need to worry about tearing the guts outta my Beast?

  66. #166
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    Quote Originally Posted by dudeist View Post
    Hello, Jim Hannoonen, sorry to hear about Your drivetrain troubles, and thanks for sharing them with Us. I've been too busy
    working on my Wal-Beast to go for a real ride on it, but I did manage to pedal it hard enuf to slip the rear axle forward in the dropout, throwing the chain. Now I wonder if I
    should get better washers, or leave it as a safety feature.
    I'm also wondering, are You of above average weight and/ or leg strength, or does a
    190 lb., 50 year old geezer like me need to worry about tearing the guts outta my Beast?
    I haven't had any problems with the rear axle moving under load. and yes, I'm a little larger than your average rider at about 215. I'm a strong rider but I can't imagine my weight had a whole lot to do with it as a 165 lb rider can probably put out just as much power as I can.

  67. #167
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    A2Z components DM-UNI might work for you guys to add disc tabs. If it'll fit over the massive rear dropout on the beast. I've used one on a more normal frame before and it worked well...but as we know the mongoose is a whole different beast.



    www.a2zcomponents.com

  68. #168
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    I blew up my rear coaster hub too. I was mashing the hell out of the pedals trying to plow through a snow bank and heard a loud pop. The axle broke in half. Like Jim, I was able to use the other bike Walmart sent me for a replacement part. These coaster hubs are going to be a weak link for strong riders. I don't have any worries about them busting at high speed. Starting friction is always greater then moving friction.

  69. #169
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    You can see where my gorilla legs twisted it right in half.





  70. #170
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    [QUOTE=AC/BC;10359076]You can see where my gorilla legs twisted it right in half.


    Yep. Busted in the exact same spot as mine. Right at the weld.

    I sent an email to AskUs@mongoose.com with a picture of the broken driver. I recommend doing the same.

  71. #171
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    [QUOTE=Jim Hannoonen;10359302]
    Quote Originally Posted by AC/BC View Post
    You can see where my gorilla legs twisted it right in half.


    Yep. Busted in the exact same spot as mine. Right at the weld.

    I sent an email to AskUs@mongoose.com with a picture of the broken driver. I recommend doing the same.


    Cool. Will do.

    Does anyone else recall some guy on here saying that coaster brakes in general were prone to busting in "3 different areas" He was some guy who worked at a beach-bike rental place. If I have more time i'll track his post down.

  72. #172
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    So I have an idea on how to reinforce this coaster hub driver.

    I'll keep you updated. =)
    Last edited by Jim Hannoonen; 05-01-2013 at 12:41 PM.

  73. #173
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    oh, man, seriously? I mash my pedals pretty hard... i wonder if the choppersus one is any better.

  74. #174
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    Frightening scenario- the hub driver gets fatigued and a crack starts during routiene use, then finally breaks during a braking panic stop, leaving you with no braking to fly off a mountain or out into traffic at an intersection. This is a dangerous flaw, I wouldnt be suprized if a safety recall results from this defect and sends all the Beasts to the crusher.

  75. #175
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    Quote Originally Posted by GrayJay View Post
    Frightening scenario- the hub driver gets fatigued and a crack starts during routiene use, then finally breaks during a braking panic stop, leaving you with no braking to fly off a mountain or out into traffic at an intersection. This is a dangerous flaw, I wouldnt be suprized if a safety recall results from this defect and sends all the Beasts to the crusher.
    I agree with you 100%, which is why I emailed the mfg.

  76. #176
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    i doubt they will go to the crusher....more likely a better replacement part will be offered.

  77. #177
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    Quote Originally Posted by mitmoe View Post
    i doubt they will go to the crusher....more likely a better replacement part will be offered.
    If these had been $1000+ bikes sold through an actual bike shop with mechanics on staff I would agree that a fix would be appropriate. Given that they are $200 bike-like-devices from wal-mart, I cannot imagine that it would be worth the cost and logistical hassle on thier part to try to fix them.

  78. #178
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    I wish I could go back and find the guys post from the coastal bike rental place who spoke about these hubs. I specifically remember him saying brake failures weren't likely going to be the issue but rather failures from people pedaling extremely hard.

    Mine happened to happen at almost a complete stop and with me twisting my body and pulling up on the handlebars to put more leverage into the pedal. I was "busting through" so to speak. FWIW, i train year round and race as much as I can, year round, but am no Manuel Beastley

  79. #179
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    I would imagine that a rider could generate almost as much backwards torque on the hub driver in a panic stop by jumping on the pedal at 9:00 position while standing. Maybe not the best braking technique but junk sold at wal-mart is not exactly targeted toward elite skilled riders.

  80. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by GrayJay View Post
    I would imagine that a rider could generate almost as much backwards torque on the hub driver in a panic stop by jumping on the pedal at 9:00 position while standing.

    You probably could generate enough torque backwards but it's an unlikely outcome. This bike is pretty easy to lock up the rear tire and skid. I've mashed forward many times harder then I have in reverse, and I have enjoyed skidding this thing a ton.

  81. #181
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    The "Manual Beasty" bike appeared to have a coaster rear; wonder how it managed to survive the abuse he provided.

  82. #182
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodi2259 View Post
    A2Z components DM-UNI might work for you guys to add disc tabs. If it'll fit over the massive rear dropout on the beast. I've used one on a more normal frame before and it worked well...but as we know the mongoose is a whole different beast.


    www.a2zcomponents.com
    Can you explain how this works?
    and is there a price?

  83. #183
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodi2259 View Post
    A2Z components DM-UNI might work for you guys to add disc tabs. If it'll fit over the massive rear dropout on the beast. I've used one on a more normal frame before and it worked well...but as we know the mongoose is a whole different beast.



    www.a2zcomponents.com
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill in Houston View Post
    Can you explain how this works?
    and is there a price?
    Here's one installed - machined plate on the inside, sheet cover on the outside, torque applied to the seatstay:
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

    WSS/OSS: Open Source Sealant

  84. #184
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    ooo, that's kind of cool...

  85. #185
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    The revoultionary rear adaptor that converts Aluminium non disc frames into a disc frame
    For this to work with your frame you need to have a Alluminum frame with a flat style dropout on both sides which is normally about 8mm thick, the A2Z adaptor then opens up and sandwiches over your frame and creates an International mount - No drilling or bolting into your frame is needed.
    It does not affect your hub or Q/R in anyway
    Not Compatible with Hope BigUn Hubs
    It will only work with Vertical dropouts
    Not compatible with Specialized Frames where the dropout is slightly angled backwards

    Colour : Silver / black







    Be the first to review this product!

    MRRP: $53.99

    Our Price: $40.10
    * Tell a Friend
    * Write review / comment

    Product Code: DM-UNI

    In Stock


    Above from woollyhatshop in UK.

    New hub with QR and Surly Tuggnut on drive side and I guess a few washers and maybe bolt right thru the dropout and it might just work. Wheeled chain tensioner needed too? So may as well throw in some gears and derailleur. But I think I'll wait til I break my axle. And the replacement. And wear thru the rim with the cantilevers. Please someone else do it. You know disc brakes are best. Especially in the winter.
    Last edited by dudeist; 04-30-2013 at 06:38 PM.

  86. #186
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    heh heh heh.

  87. #187
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    Quote Originally Posted by dudeist View Post
    ...You know disc brakes are best. Especially in the winter.
    They should be looking at modern drum brakes. They're cheaper than the disk modifications, and are perfect for winter slop.

    They also work well if you don't muck up the cable setup.



    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Mongoose Beast modifications-x-rdc.jpg  

    Mongoose Beast modifications-xl-fd.jpg  

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  88. #188
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    Just an FYI... My coaster just slows you down while sounding like a dying goose. I called and they were going to ship me a whole new rear wheel but they have none in stock so they are sending me a complete new bike and told me to keep whatever parts I want off the old one and destroy or trash the old frame.
    1993 Trek Multitrack 700
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  89. #189
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    Crazy, but expected from Walmart to give you a whole new bike. I bet if I said mine had a flat tire I'd get a whole new bike. I think the $19 extended warranty I paid for will pay off, maybe several times! And tons of spare parts to be had after.

    Quote Originally Posted by Thumpy69 View Post
    Just an FYI... My coaster just slows you down while sounding like a dying goose. I called and they were going to ship me a whole new rear wheel but they have none in stock so they are sending me a complete new bike and told me to keep whatever parts I want off the old one and destroy or trash the old frame.
    Quote Originally Posted by Hesh to Steel
    With people liking mongoose and trek bikes now, what's next in this crazy world? People disliking the bottlerocket?!

  90. #190
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bulldog View Post
    Crazy, but expected from Walmart to give you a whole new bike. I bet if I said mine had a flat tire I'd get a whole new bike. I think the $19 extended warranty I paid for will pay off, maybe several times! And tons of spare parts to be had after.
    Wally world isn't even involved. I called the 800 number for Pacific Cycles thats on the bike. They are the ones shipping me a whole new bike and letting me keep the original one.
    1993 Trek Multitrack 700
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  91. #191
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    Hmmm...

    Kind of odd that I see no mention of the Beast anywhere on Pacific Cycle or Mongoose sites...
    Most people ply the Well Trodden Path. A few seek a different way, and leave a Trail behind.
    - John Hajny, a.k.a. TrailMaker

  92. #192
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    Thanks velobike, I'd forgotten those Sturmey-Archer hubs. The 'goose needs 170 o.l.d.
    and the only one I can find is 3-spd disc for $190. And hollow axle.

    Hey Thumpy69, Thanks for info- Did You have $19 extra warranty too?

  93. #193
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    nope, all i spent was the 208 and change to order it online. called pacifics 800 number and told them what was happening, 2 weeks later i get a call the lady said hey we have no replacement parts in stock so were sending you a replacement bike, keep what you want on the old one and trash the frame. ok, np here. lol. gives me a trial and error set of wheels to work with. i got my 135mm 8 speed alfine in. as soon as my axle extenders show up im gonna give it a try. its roughly a little over a half inch on each side and it doesn't look like the chainline will be pulled to far off to cause problems. the extenders are so short normal riding should be ok as long as i dont do any significant drops on it. if that works next thingwill be a dual chain ring upfront with a chain tensioner.
    1993 Trek Multitrack 700
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  94. #194
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    why would their only requirement would be to trash the frame? odd but hey..
    Last edited by twistedmentality; 05-05-2013 at 08:42 PM.

  95. #195
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    Instead of trashing the frame, you can pass it over to another tinkerer to get another Beast alive in the wild

    (I am in to get a Beast carcass from someone's garage -_^)

  96. #196
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    My wifes already claimed it for me to tinker on. She wants one now to.
    1993 Trek Multitrack 700
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  97. #197
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    Anyone actually measure their chain line on their Beast?

    I did and here is what I found.

    Rear cog is 65 mm from center line.

    Stock steel chain ring is 72 mm from center line. 7mm off! Not good.

    Aluminum triple crank that I thought I could use with a 32t chain ring in the center position with a 3mm spacer: 73mm from center line. Even worse!

    Would a SS crank be the same? Im trying to figure how this can work, without what should be an unnecessary 1/8 inch chain, and closing my eyes and ears to the huge difference.

    I see no convenient way to move the rear cog farther out.

  98. #198
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    would a dished cog make you feel any better?
    BTI | Sturmey Archer 8-speed dished cog, 3-spline, 1/8" - 25t chrome
    custom 135mm non-offset fat bike?

    I'm wondering if moving the chainring closer to centerline would cause issues with tire/chain clearance.

  99. #199
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    The stock cog is dished, identical to the shimano nexus that I got and looks just like that BTI link - so no help there. The other link goes back to a 10mm offset cog - normal dish is on the order of 3-4mm, so that would actually work.

    Note: 21t will fit with stock 36t using OEM chain. Barely.

    Funny, I didn't even bother to check the stock chainline - but estimated 6-7mm spacers were required to work with my "who knows" crank arms. Sounds like mid position on a triple crank is very close to the stock crank/ring combo. I'll check that when I mess with the beast next - now that I've got my packet of 7.1mm chainring spacers.
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

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  100. #200
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill in Houston View Post

    ...Sturmey Archer 8-speed dished cog, 3-spline, 1/8" - 25t chrome...
    The 8 speed is a different fitting. 2 speed, 3 speed, and 5 speed S-A cogs will fit though.

    The chainline being that far off looks bad if you're used to a singlespeed or hubgear, but it's nothing unusual in a derailleur system.
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
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