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  1. #351
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    Has anyone set up their Beast as a dingle speed? I'm curious about what kind of tensioner was used that worked well with the coaster brake.

  2. #352
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    Quote Originally Posted by rss26Roger View Post
    Has anyone set up their Beast as a dingle speed? I'm curious about what kind of tensioner was used that worked well with the coaster brake.
    Hmm. I thought that part of setting up a dinglespeed was to have the same tooth count (or close) on both, so you didn't have to mess with tensioners?

    Bigger problem would be getting 2 sprockets on the back - which would require a hub swap, methinks.
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

    WSS/OSS: Open Source Sealant

  3. #353
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    Being that this is a hub braked bike I would think your only hope of running a tensioner would be one of the ones that are fixed like this one



    Having any sort of spring loaded thing in there is gonna mean your brakes don't work. I'd even be worried about a fixed one slipping.

    And as wadester said dingle is all about using a combination of front and rear chain rings that have the same total tooth count isn't it?

  4. #354
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    Even those can slip. I've tried it - once was enough.

    Basically if you need a tensioner then you shouldn't use a coaster or a fixed wheel. Magic ratio and halflinks are the only prospect with a normal coaster or fixed hub.
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
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  5. #355
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    Makes sense, thanks. How about an internally geared hub with coaster brake? Do any of you know of a good one that would be Beast compatible?

  6. #356
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    Quote Originally Posted by Velobike View Post
    Even those can slip. I've tried it - once was enough.

    Basically if you need a tensioner then you shouldn't use a coaster or a fixed wheel. Magic ratio and halflinks are the only prospect with a normal coaster or fixed hub.
    Or they can pry open your dropout.

    I have never tried it myself, but there is the ghost ring method also. Can't speak to its reliability
    "Keep your burgers lean and your tires fat." -h.d. | bikecentric | ssoft

  7. #357
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    Quote Originally Posted by rss26Roger View Post
    Makes sense, thanks. How about an internally geared hub with coaster brake? Do any of you know of a good one that would be Beast compatible?
    The only IGH that will fit:
    Wide Hub - 3 Speed/Disc SLVR - Cycles U.S. LLC/Choppers U.S.

    170mm wide sturmey archer 3 speed - but with a disc brake rather than coaster, so you also need a caliper mount adapter.
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

    WSS/OSS: Open Source Sealant

  8. #358
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    Assembled, adjusted all bearings and greased up the new Goose Lander plus swapped out to a 22 tooth rear cog and a longer seat post. So far so good, been out on a handful of off road 10 - 25 mile loops. I've been going easy by not really stomping on the pedals for fear of busting the rear hub drive. I'm 6'1' and personally I like the geometry of the Beast.

    I have a Shimano Nexus 8 speed internal gear hub with coaster brake on order which I'm going to lace up next. It will need a spacer since it's only around 132mm and the rear dropouts are about 162mm. Thumpy69 has been helpful with some insight on this.

    Up to now for $240, I'm floatin & gloatin! This cheap chinese junker is not good for those with no mechanical skills. I look at it as a frame and set of rims for $200. I'm gonna slowly tweak and experiment until I get the Beast Lander in shape for some heavier abuse.

  9. #359
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Motocross View Post
    I have a Shimano Nexus 8 speed internal gear hub with coaster brake on order which I'm going to lace up next. It will need a spacer since it's only around 132mm and the rear dropouts are about 162mm.
    The goose frame is just plain hi-carbon steel, easy and safe to permanently coldset the rear triangle down to fit a narrower hub so no flimpy axel spacer is needed. You could do the coldsetting slighlty asymetrically to get the chainline strait, get good chain/tire clearance and get the spoke dishing more even.

  10. #360
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    Re: Mongoose Beast modifications

    Built another for a buddy


    Sent from my VS910 4G using Tapatalk 2

  11. #361
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    Quote Originally Posted by wadester View Post
    The only IGH that will fit:
    Wide Hub - 3 Speed/Disc SLVR - Cycles U.S. LLC/Choppers U.S.

    170mm wide sturmey archer 3 speed - but with a disc brake rather than coaster, so you also need a caliper mount adapter.
    this may also work on this set up if you decide to go that route. 2 Bicycle F R Disc Brake Brackets Buy 2 Pieces for $31 99 | eBay but there is another thread where a guy made a bracket for his beast to mount a caliper

  12. #362
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  13. #363
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    Mongoose Beast modifications-2013-06-09-20-52-08.jpg

  14. #364
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  15. #365
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    What crank did you use to replace the stock one?
    Let it all hang out.

  16. #366
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    Re: Mongoose Beast modifications

    Any old square taper crank should work. I used an old XT M750 on mine.

    Sent from my VS910 4G using Tapatalk 2

  17. #367
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    I have been a running a beast for about three weeks now. I've been doing 15 to 25 mile off-road loops on it. So far so good. I started out babying it quite a bit as I was worried about blowing up the rear hub or crank. I've progressively been beating on it more and it's held together. I am 190 pounds and 6'1" so I needed a longer seat post. I am running the stock 36 tooth sprocket in front and a 23 tooth cog in the rear, this suits me pretty well. You need to add a couple links to the chain to fit the larger cog. The bottom bracket is an obvious issue as lots of debris can get in there easy. I cleaned all the sand out the other day and re-greased the bearings. I've made a makeshift semi-seal out of some poly tubing.I've been impressed enough with the bike to purchase a second bike as a project bike. I got a Shimano Nexus eight speed hub with a coaster brake to string up. I had to do a little custom job in extending the axle so I could get the chain line right. I used one of the nuts that came with the hub as a coupling nut by chopping of the end. I then robbed a little chunk off another old axle to use as an extension.With this configuration the chain line is straight and the hub fits well. Note the coaster brake arm is not near close to where it needs to be.Next was lacing the wheel. Since the hub is off set, I needed to string the wheel off set as well. This required drilling a few more spoke holes in the rim.I ended up using 252mm length spokes on the drive side and 248mm on the brake side. If I were to do it again I would use 252 and 250mm.I had to pull the coaster brake lever off the hub and put it in a vice to bend it enough to line up properly.Bottom line:Beast $200
    Hub & shifter $200
    23 tooth cog $10
    Taxes & shipping $40
    So I am into the eight speed beast $450. For me, this bike has been great.
    Last edited by Joe Motocross; 06-18-2013 at 03:59 AM.

  18. #368
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    Hmmm...

    I don't think the axle extension will work out, ultimately. However, it is a very creative project nonetheless.
    Most people ply the Well Trodden Path. A few seek a different way, and leave a Trail behind.
    - John Hajny, a.k.a. TrailMaker

  19. #369
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    Nice job!!

  20. #370
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    Oh yeah, I forgot $20 for spokes. $470, still not bad for a geared fat bike.

    I have complete confidence in my makeshift axle extension. I thought I might turn a custom coupling nut on a lathe but I don't think it's necesary.

    Bottom bracket and crank are much more likely to give me problems is my guess.

  21. #371
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    I contemplated trying a similar bodge for an axle extension idea myself, but chickened out. I figure that a failure could be a bit nasty.

    If you do end up making an extension, I reckon you'll have a ready market - once you've tested it The inability to use a hubgear on a 170mm rear is a major hindrance at the moment.
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
    Latitude: 57º36' Highlands, Scotland

  22. #372
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    Very cool ... I hope it stands up to a bit of abuse 'cause 8 gears on that thing is exactly what it needs.

  23. #373
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    My question has always been...

    I like the concept, as we all likely have a love/hate relationship with the derailleur. However, is an IGH really up to the rigors of real all mountain trail riding without copious service, or are they only suited for moderate aventuring?
    Most people ply the Well Trodden Path. A few seek a different way, and leave a Trail behind.
    - John Hajny, a.k.a. TrailMaker

  24. #374
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    I'd say that depends on what you define as "mountain trail riding", which IGH you are using, and how adept you are to servicing the thing properly and regularly.

    The Rolhoff is MTB rated, but very expensive, and some of the old 3 speed jobs ... Well, I broke one on the street, as a teenager.

  25. #375
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    I think a better approach than extending axle, bending coaster arm would have been to cold-set the left chainstay/seatstay of the 170mm rear end down an offset 135mm width. Steel frames are entirely amenable to such modification. Make the cheap, disposable frame fit your nice IG hub, not the other way around.

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