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  1. #1001
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    Rather than a comprehensive response, I'm going to throw some things out there, just to 'talk" out loud.
    Thanks a BUNCH for all of that information. Very helpful!

  2. #1002
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr BadWrench View Post
    Dammit, when did the Dolomite drop to $250? I see they are out of stock now.

    I recommend the dolomite if only for the brakes and the freewheel. its worth the extra cash.
    Actually, in store for me it was $225 yet online it said $250.

    I had to drive 3.5 hours south to pick mine up.. but well worth it (I love it nearly as much as the beast).






  3. #1003
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    Quote Originally Posted by ImaBum View Post
    Actually, in store for me it was $225 yet online it said $250.
    I had to drive 3.5 hours south to pick mine up..
    Yes, you've posted that before.
    Buying one in a store is not a good idea for him.
    He needs one that the store has not "assembled" and no one has ridden, so he can get the hubs (& preferably bottom bracket & headset) cleaned out, fully lubed and properly adjusted, so the bearings will last.

  4. #1004
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    Great advice from Canoe and others for ratepc.

    FWIW, I'm a big guy at 6'1" about 256 lbs and I upgraded the rear spokes on my 29er to DT Swiss Alpine 3 spokes after breaking 13 spokes on my many trips. I have not had broken spoke since.

    Their strongest spokes. DT Swiss - DT alpine III
    Current bikes: 2010 Raleigh Talus 29er with Ergon GP5 grips, Shimano PD-T420 Click'R pedals, Topeak Explorer 29" Disc MTX Rear Rack and Topeak DXP bag.

    2013 Walmart Mongoose Beast blue


    "Put The Fun Between Your Legs"
    "26" isn't Dead, it just got FAT"
    "I Dream On Two Wheels"
    "Be The Motor, You Are The Engine"

  5. #1005
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    What tools are needed to properly service and build a beast being delivered to me, not assembled in store?

    Part numbers would be greatly appreciated. I'm thinking specific bike tools like how to get to the bearings (bracket, wheels, headset) and how to tighten / check the spokes.

    I already have ordered a 22t rear cog, chain, lighter tires, and lighter tubes.

  6. #1006
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    I used standard tool chest tools to assemble my bike. Nothing special on my end.

  7. #1007
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    I too am a big guy, 6'1" 255 and have had my beast for 5 months. (I was bigger when I got it) I have had no issues.

    the above threads are dead on, disassemble it clean it and grease it and you should have no issues.

    Just watch put you are going to want to modify it almost immediately.

  8. #1008
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    Thanks. I'm going to change to a 22T cog, lighter tires, and tubes, and maybe handlebars.

    I just want to make sure I have the correct tools to open up the bottom bracket, headset, etc and grease them up properly.

  9. #1009
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    Quote Originally Posted by Just_Cruisin View Post
    I just want to make sure I have the correct tools to open up the bottom bracket, headset, etc and grease them up properly.
    The problem is, it 's not just a matter of mechanical re-assembly. You have to get the tension correct, or you'll have a poor ride while trashing the bearings. And that's after NOT getting dirt into the grease. Get it wrong and you can end up needing to replace: cup, bearings & spindle; headset cup & bearings; hubs! So someone giving you a list of tools without your knowing how to do the job, would be a disservice. Likely why no one's done so.

    Can someone learn how to do it online? I don't know (I was taught with everything in front of me). But the links follow. Search online for other how-to writeups, or videos. Don't rely on one source, as you don't know what they, or you, did or didn't pick up on? Worst case? You give the LBS money to fix it, or trash the bike.

    You'd likely get away with just topping up the grease - if it's clean. The proper way is to remove the old grease, clean everything, then apply new grease. This also means you're not mixing different types of grease; sometimes they do not play well together. Fully packed with grease = no room for dirt & water, and good heat removal from the bearings for a longer life.

    The headset is straight forward if you're just topping up the grease, with more work if you're going to clean out the old grease first. You're not replacing races and such, but here's that link. Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Threaded Headset Service

    For the adjustable bottom bracket (cup, bearings & spindle) you can start here. Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Adjustable Type Bottom Bracket Service
    And you'll have to pull a crank arm or two. Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Crank Installation and Removal- Square Spindle Type
    Those should also suffice if you upgrade the cup & bearings.
    Straight forward to do, The issue is getting the tension correct, then getting it locked in place without changing that tension. It can be done without the "right" tools, but did you get it right or when done are the bearings slightly tighter or looser, and is that tension going to back off and let the parts slap around.

    Hubs. Cone & cup adjustment is crucial. Get it right - your weight is on it.
    Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Hub Overhaul and Adjustment

    You don't need top quality tools for a one-time or once-a-year use. But...
    To save a trip to the bike co-op, I got a set of off-brand double-ended cone wrenches. They work; they're loose; they flex (changing the opening size...); they're difficult to use and a pain to use; they waste my time. The old-school flat plate multi-wrench would work much better. With the Park Tools SCW set at the bike co-op, as in the past, I wouldn't even have noticed the tool, just got the job done. You don't need a full set; I don't recall the size you need. I haven't used their double-ended ones, but I would expect them to be fine (you're not using these every second day, so you don't need the rubber coated handles).

  10. #1010
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    Mongoose Beast modifications

    I bought a cheap bike toolset on Nashbar for about $30 (slickdeal thing) and then learned by taking apart bikes that were laying around. Before asking a million questions on forums I went to YouTube and THAT is a fantastic resource.

    This is my kit and it's had everything (so far) that I've needed. There's actually a couple tools I'm clueless about lol
    http://nashbar.com/webapp/wcs/stores...4452_-1_catNav


    I LIKE BIKES

  11. #1011
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    Mongoose Beast modifications

    By the way...


    I LIKE BIKES

  12. #1012
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    Quote Originally Posted by xobloof View Post
    I went 32x20 which is perfect for me. I have done trails, hills, snow, sand all just fine.
    I would like to gear my Walmart Mongoose down to make it easier to ride around the playa at Burning Man.

    Can you tell me the details I need to make the change you did? Like, what do I need to know to order the front & rear chain sprockets?

    Thanks
    Rod

  13. #1013
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    Quote Originally Posted by rmc50 View Post
    I would like to gear my Walmart Mongoose down to make it easier to ride around the playa at Burning Man.
    Run your tires at 15 lbs on the hard stuff.
    Try 8 lbs if there's lots of dust laying around.
    You'll enjoy upgraded tires a lot. Go 120 tpi.
    Get, and use, a lock.

    There's a 5mph speed limit on the playa.
    All you need is a larger cog in the rear.
    Look back through the threads to see which one seems to make the most sense to you.
    Or, look back on how to do the dual cog mod, so you can mess people up when they see you pedaling backwards while you go forwards...

  14. #1014
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    Quote Originally Posted by rmc50 View Post
    I would like to gear my Walmart Mongoose down to make it easier to ride around the playa at Burning Man.

    Can you tell me the details I need to make the change you did? Like, what do I need to know to order the front & rear chain sprockets?

    Thanks
    Rod
    The rear is super easy. Just pull off the rear wheel, then get a small screwdriver and pop the round retaining clip off of the rear cog.

    The front was a little more of a pain. I ordered a shimano 3x crank set. The right arm worked fine, but I was unable to use the left arm with the beast spindle. So I just use the stock left arm and the shimano right arm. I did buy a crank arm puller for this job, and also repacked the BB while I was at it.

    I ran the stock shimano 32t middle ring for a while, then later I replaced it with a surly 32t ring. Both worked fine.

    Unfortunately I broke the driver this weekend so now I am searching for a new rear hub.

  15. #1015
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    So I broke the driver a few weeks ago. Right at the weld where all the others break. I had about 320 mile on it when it broke, and I mash up some pretty big hills. (32x20)

    While looking for a replacement hub I came across the spec sheet for a Sun Crusher fat bike which uses the same rear hub. Down at the bottom of the page was this

    """
    Service Parts Description
    Hub Rear Part KT One-Piece Coaster Brake Driver for 170mm Hub
    """

    So it looks like they have changed the driver manufacturing method.

    I also found a whole hub assembly online for about $35 and it just arrived today. I opened it up and it had no weld on the driver. I am going to try just swapping the driver from the new hub to the original one so I don't have to re-lace the rim.

    I have two beasts (one for me and one for the GF). Mine came with at 36t chain ring, ordered Nov '13. The GFs came with a 32t chain ring, ordered Feb '14. I am wondering if the newer 32t versions also have the upgraded driver. I have yet to open up the GFs rear hub and check. Can anyone confirm this suspicion?

    Keep on Klunkin'

    ETA:

    The new hub part number is 'KT-319R'
    KTs website lists it as a tricycle hub
    ::: WELCOME TO KT :::

  16. #1016
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    And how about a pic for good measure.

    Mongoose Beast modifications-p7180284.jpg

  17. #1017
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    I want to get my girl a beast too.. She likes mine a lot but I hate adjusting the seat for her all the time..

  18. #1018
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    Here are specs on everything I have done so far.

    Green Beast “Dusty” (mine)
    Shimano Crank arm (Right only)
    Surly 32t chain ring
    VP-747 Pedals (Green)
    20t rear sprocket
    Devistator Tires
    Kalloy 28.6x400mm seatpost
    Brooks Aged Flyer
    KMC 610 chain
    Pro Taper SE Trials Mid Bars (815mm wide)
    ODI Vans bolt on grips
    Redline chain tensioner (Black)
    I also have a set of ape hangers with "Hulk Hands" on them

    Red Beast “Sandy” (girlfriends)
    VP-747 Pedals (Red)
    20t rear sprocket
    Sunlite Gold Tec Front rack
    Sunlite Willow Bushel Basket
    Avenir Classic Cruiser Saddle
    Avenir Adjustable Stem
    Torker Boardwalk Cruiser Bars
    XLC Foam Grips
    PDW Cup Holder
    KMC 610 chain
    Redline chain tensioner (Red)
    Streamers (red / silver) (daytime)
    Streamers (Fiber Optic RGB LED) (nighttime)

    Blue Beast (Works)
    VP-747 Pedals (Blue)
    20t rear sprocket
    Turbo Spoke Exhaust
    Sunlite D-Cruiser 32x25x7/8 Handlebars
    Blue Grips
    Banana Seat
    Sissy Bar
    Motorcycle rear view mirror clamps on seat stay for sissy bar
    “Haters” Decal

    Black Brutus (Co-Workers)
    I think he has ape hangers on it now.

    Mongoose Beast modifications-p7180277.jpgMongoose Beast modifications-p7180280.jpgMongoose Beast modifications-20140918_051709.jpgMongoose Beast modifications-20140918_051639.jpgMongoose Beast modifications-20140918_051647.jpgMongoose Beast modifications-20140918_051659.jpgMongoose Beast modifications-p8260635.jpgMongoose Beast modifications-20140828_060342.jpgMongoose Beast modifications-p9010774.jpgMongoose Beast modifications-945792_10200875147787932_1990768227_n.jpg

  19. #1019
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    Those look like fun!

    How's the banana seat supports onto the seat stays working out?

  20. #1020
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    Those look like fun!

    How's the banana seat supports onto the seat stays working out?
    So far so good. I weigh 210lbs and it holds me just fine. I sit at the very back of the seat with that setup.

  21. #1021
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    Update on FatAlbert

    Mongoose Beast modifications-2014-01-23-08.39.17.jpg

    Mongoose Beast modifications-2014-01-23-08.39.06.jpg

    Mongoose Beast modifications-2014-01-23-08.39.32.jpg

    FatAlbert333 Ride Ride & Ride & Ride Even More !!!

  22. #1022
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    Rear drive finally broke

    My sons rear drive just broke today, is wally world or Pacific Cycles still warrantying parts? If not how is the Wide Hub Low Flange for $30 at ChopperUS?

    Has anybody tried re welding at the break? It obvious that the original weld did not get decent penetration so a nice tight tig weld should work fine unless it changes the (if any) hardness of the steel.

  23. #1023
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    I just replaced a broken driver by ordering a replacement hub online (not from pacific). It was about $35. I only used the new donor hubs driver.

    The hub part number is KT-319R. Its driver is one piece, ie no weld.

    I did send pacific an email and received a canned response, but have not heard any real response. I think people have had better luck calling them.

  24. #1024
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    Thank you, I'm going to re-weld it and see how that goes.

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    FWIW, i just snapped my driver for the 2nd time. i replaced the first one with the unit from choppers and then that one broke too. i suspect finding a driver that can handle the extra torque required to get the beast rolling quickly is impossible. i will either have the broken one re-welded or have a machinist make me a new one out of quality metal.
    i did try to get a replacement from pacific cycles and i had no success. ;-(

    steve in DC

  26. #1026
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    did you re-weld? how did it go?

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    Quote Originally Posted by tubameat View Post
    FWIW, i just snapped my driver for the 2nd time. i replaced the first one with the unit from choppers and then that one broke too. i suspect finding a driver that can handle the extra torque required to get the beast rolling quickly is impossible. i will either have the broken one re-welded or have a machinist make me a new one out of quality metal.
    i did try to get a replacement from pacific cycles and i had no success. ;-(

    steve in DC
    Was the choppers driver welded? Or was it a 1 piece driver?

  28. #1028
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    Quote Originally Posted by xobloof View Post
    Was the choppers driver welded? Or was it a 1 piece driver?

    dunno yet. ill keep you posted as soon as i take it apart and see. i think theres a guy in this thread above who said his replacement was one piece.

  29. #1029
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    Mongoose Beast modifications-driver.jpg

    Here is a shot of the original broken driver, and the 1 piece replacement driver.

  30. #1030
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    Quote Originally Posted by GiantTrek View Post
    Attachment 863045

    Fabed up a heavy duty break strap as the original broke.
    Holy **** that weld is terrible. And then look at all the undercut on the top weld.
    Drink beer. 'Merica!

  31. #1031
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    Beast for cheap winter commuting

    Hi guys,

    First thanks all for your input on this bike.

    I bought my Beast a month ago and plan to use it for daily commuting to work in winter.

    I needed a cheap bike because I can't really take care of my bike and there is a lot of bike theft here. I also wanted to try out fatbikes to see if it's easier to ride in snow.

    So the beast came naturally: cheap, simple (no cables, derailleur or external brakes).
    Seemed like the perfect fit for the job.

    First, I had to came to a US Walmart since it can't be shipped to a Canadian Walmart.
    Tried the bike on concrete and well... Sure it feels heavy but I had worst expectations from what I read around the web.

    Now for my specific needs:

    I bought Big O Mfg fenders. I know they cost the price of the bike but I needed something sturdy and that really keeps me clean.

    I read that some parts need to be greased or checked before riding the bike.
    I'm quite new to servicing bikes so I took some pictures to check with you guys if it's okay.

    stock greasestock greasewith new greaseMongoose Beast modifications-dscn3331.jpgMongoose Beast modifications-dscn3332.jpgMongoose Beast modifications-dscn3333.jpg

    So I wonder what you think ?
    Is the default grease enough ?
    I changed it in the front wheel but not on the back as it seemed more difficult.

    I saw that the part on the fourth picture was welded on some bike and could broke easily.

    It seems mine is in one piece !

    I'm also looking into mounting a complete chain case but the 51 cm between the two axes seems to be too much for all the chaincases I saw. So, I'm gonna try to make a custom one.

    I wonder if you guys have any advice regarding running this bike in winter on the road ?

    Regards.

  32. #1032
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    Where do you bike parts & accessories for the beast?

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    i just got a replacement driver from Mongoose. looks like they upgraded the part to a single piece, no-weld unit! Mongoose Beast modifications-10511637_10152346513341809_5526927221933706452_o.jpg

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    Pacific Cycle finally got back to me about my broken driver. They just sent me a whole new wheel. I haven't opened it up yet, but I suspect it is also a one piece driver.

  36. #1036
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    that was exactly my situation. they sent me a whole new wheel too. i opened up the hub and the driver in mine was one piece. they were very helpful (and fast!)!
    we'll see if the one-piece driver can stand up to my hard riding.
    the old ones (i broke two of them) broke when i was accelerating HARD from a dead stop.

  37. #1037
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    Ahh, cool. From your last post I was thinking they just sent you a driver.

  38. #1038
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    After seeing the Beast in person and reading lots of reviews and mods on it I decided to get one. Stripped the Beast down to the bare frame and applied frame saver because I wanted the Beast to last for at least a few winter seasons here in MN because it'll be my main commuter. Like everyone else had mentioned, hubs were too tight, no grease on BB and actually I had to rebuild the BB with new bearings because one bearing was damaged. Here's the mod list:

    Bontrager stem and handlebar with stock grips
    Profile Design threaded to threadless stem adapter
    Origin8 saddle
    Shimano crank arms with Race Face 32t chainring
    CrankBros eggbeaters
    45nrth Husker Du tires
    SKS M.O.M rear fender
    20t cog

    What I noticed on mine was the coaster brake spindle/shaft is a one piece and the crankset came with a 32t chainring. So far I'm having a blast with this Beast and I'll post up a picture in a bit here.

  39. #1039
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    Quote Originally Posted by elee View Post
    After seeing the Beast in person and reading lots of reviews and mods on it I decided to get one. Stripped the Beast down to the bare frame and applied frame saver because I wanted the Beast to last for at least a few winter seasons here in MN because it'll be my main commuter. Like everyone else had mentioned, hubs were too tight, no grease on BB and actually I had to rebuild the BB with new bearings because one bearing was damaged. Here's the mod list:

    Bontrager stem and handlebar with stock grips
    Profile Design threaded to threadless stem adapter
    Origin8 saddle
    Shimano crank arms with Race Face 32t chainring
    CrankBros eggbeaters
    45nrth Husker Du tires
    SKS M.O.M rear fender
    20t cog

    What I noticed on mine was the coaster brake spindle/shaft is a one piece and the crankset came with a 32t chainring. So far I'm having a blast with this Beast and I'll post up a picture in a bit here.
    You should have got the dolomite for the brakes and gears. I love my beast but couldn't imagin it as a daily commuter

  41. #1041
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    Quote Originally Posted by elee View Post
    That does look great tho! Love the black wheels. I'd love those on my red beast!

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    I'm used to riding singlespeed as I've been riding fixed for 2.5yrs now. I leave the gears for racing and training road rides.

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    Newbie biker

    I'm new to this but I've tackled most of the mods listed, just wanted to know has Anybody think of using this fork 26er Sand Snow Fat Bike Bicycle MTB Tapered Steerer MTB thru Axle Carbon Fork | eBay I've already purchased this Amazon.com : LVWA 3k full Carbon fiber MTB Bike handlebar+stem, HB031L (620mm*90mm) : Sports & Outdoors I was thinking these 2 together would be pretty nice
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Mongoose Beast modifications-image.jpg  


  44. #1044
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    That fork won't fit the frame. The steerer tube is tapered, meaning the bottom is 1-1/4 inches. Its made for a tapered head tube. And its a thru axle, so you would have to replace your front hub to a thru axle type.

  45. #1045
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    Quote Originally Posted by blown240 View Post
    That fork won't fit the frame. The steerer tube is tapered, meaning the bottom is 1-1/4 inches. Its made for a tapered head tube. And its a thru axle, so you would have to replace your front hub to a thru axle type.
    Thanks for the info, I think I'll just throw my bars on and a cantilever for the front and move on to something from bikes direct since they're having a good sell now.

  46. #1046
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    Quote Originally Posted by elee View Post
    I'm used to riding singlespeed as I've been riding fixed for 2.5yrs now. I leave the gears for racing and training road rides.
    Oh sweet! Any brake upgrades or leave it as is?

  47. #1047
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    Quote Originally Posted by ImaBum View Post
    Oh sweet! Any brake upgrades or leave it as is?
    I'm going to leave the coaster on it til it goes out then either go fixed or singlespeed. I did take it out to do a little bit of singletrack and was lots of fun and dangerous with the coaster brake lol. Going back this weekend and learn to ride the Beast.

  48. #1048
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    Mongoose Beast modifications-dscn3338.jpg

    My beast with 4" fenders from Big O Mfg.
    If you want to order some, I suggest you take the 5" ones as the 4" are a little too tight around the tire.

    I had to bend the front bracket as it was rubbing against the tire.

    Mongoose Beast modifications-dscn3346.jpg

    Otherwise good stuff, really helps staying (almost) clean in slush.

    Beast is fun to ride in city but I tried a snowy path and I was almost out of breath after 10 minutes ! Could use 1 or 2 gears to help get past this.

    I sometime feel like the drivetrain is slippy ! This is weird as it doesn't happen all the time. It's like something is not well screwed inside the weel or the gear slip around the axle.

    Anyone having this ?

  49. #1049
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    How much were the fenders and what gearing are you running? I don't seem to have too much trouble in the snow with my Beast but I did upgrade my tires and running on 32/18 for gearing.

  50. #1050
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    135$ for the fenders (custom kit) + shipping. I think I have the same gearing. I guess it feels different for everyone. I am not a big rider, just use my bike to go around town. It feels okay most of the time but when a lot of snow has just fallen it's more of a challenge !

  51. #1051
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    If it's stock then most likely it's 36/18 which will be tough in snow.

  52. #1052
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    Quote Originally Posted by gorman2040 View Post
    135$ for the fenders (custom kit) + shipping. I think I have the same gearing. I guess it feels different for everyone. I am not a big rider, just use my bike to go around town. It feels okay most of the time but when a lot of snow has just fallen it's more of a challenge !
    So you have 135$ fender on a 199$ bikes!?
    That does not make any sens to me
    expensive cars are a waste of money. Expensive bikes...not so much!

  53. #1053
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    Quote Originally Posted by tartosuc View Post
    So you have 135$ fender on a 199$ bikes!?
    That does not make any sens to me
    Makes sense if he wants to stay dry.
    Out to ride

  54. #1054
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Endomorph View Post
    Makes sense if he wants to stay dry.
    Exactly, I first thought of doing a kit myself but I didn't have the tools and the time to do it plus I'm sure I'll have ended with something weaker in terms of durability.

    I'm sure I'll get ROI in saving clothes I otherwise would have ruined

    So no one have this weird issue where pedals seems to "slip" a little when you push hard (on hills for example) ?

  55. #1055
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    Quote Originally Posted by gorman2040 View Post
    So no one have this weird issue where pedals seems to "slip" a little when you push hard (on hills for example) ?
    do the pedals slip individual of each other, or together? could be the rear cog isn't installed exactly straight, so it slips on the hub. Or a broken driver. Or if its just 1 side, maybe one of the crank arms had a rounded square taper.

  56. #1056
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    Quote Originally Posted by gorman2040 View Post
    Exactly, I first thought of doing a kit myself but I didn't have the tools and the time to do it plus I'm sure I'll have ended with something weaker in terms of durability.

    I'm sure I'll get ROI in saving clothes I otherwise would have ruined

    So no one have this weird issue where pedals seems to "slip" a little when you push hard (on hills for example) ?
    Have you serviced the rear hub?

    I would check out the retarder spring.
    Bicycle Coaster Brakes

    Just a guess.

  57. #1057
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    Quote Originally Posted by blown240 View Post
    do the pedals slip individual of each other, or together? could be the rear cog isn't installed exactly straight, so it slips on the hub. Or a broken driver. Or if its just 1 side, maybe one of the crank arms had a rounded square taper.
    Thanks for the heads up and link guys.
    Yep I serviced the rear hub and this is probably the problem.
    I'll check it ASAP.

  58. #1058
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    Quote Originally Posted by tartosuc View Post
    So you have 135$ fender on a 199$ bikes!?
    That does not make any sens to me
    I never get why people have such a mindset like this.. Because I have a $199 bike I can not ride it in the rain?? Or on wet roads? Or the beach (in the tide)?

    End of the day a bike is wheels on a frame hooked up to a chain. How expensive the bike is has no relation to any additions.

  59. #1059
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    Just finished my Schwinn Biggity version rebuild, total expense including buying the damn thing was $400 cdn. 38.9 pounds now, canti's, 34/18 singlespeed.

    <img src="http://yoda.densan.ca/kmr/bikes/biggity1.jpg">
    I don't post to generate business for myself or make like I'm better than sliced bread

  60. #1060
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    new kid on the block

    2015 model is out now hopefully walmart will have it for cheaper

    http://m.*****sportinggoods.com/prod...uctId=54550416
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Mongoose Beast modifications-screenshot_2014-12-01-20-31-07.jpg  


  61. #1061
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    Does anyone know what type of handlebars are on Manuel Beastleys fat bike of fury?The bike mag article says 770mm flat-track moto bars.Was wondering if they were bicycle or motorcycle bars.It looks like Manuel is using the stock handlebar stem and the bars that fit that would be 7/8"
    Thanks

  62. #1062
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    New upgrades for the Beast:
    Sunline carbon bar
    Globe grips
    VeeTire SnowShoe 26x4.5 120tpi
    Bontrager 26x2.3/2.5 tubes

  63. #1063
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    anyone know how the ***** extended warranty plan works? Similar to the one that Wallmart has? Where if you have an issue with the bike, for the most part they will refund your money, and tell you to destroy the bike (no return required?)

  64. #1064
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    I found that the bars are actually motorcycle bars.7/8" flat track off an early honda vr600rs.Although the bars may have been on other bikes.30inches wide (770mm) and if you look closely at the bike mag beastley article the kill switch is right next to the brake lever.Very clever Manuel Beastly.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Mongoose Beast modifications-beastley.jpg  


  65. #1065
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    For a second I thought it was a bell lol good find.

  66. #1066
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    Has anyone tried to fit a Bud and Lou combo on the beast?

  67. #1067
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    Merry Christmas to all my Beast owners.

  68. #1068
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    Mongoose Beast modifications

    Mongoose Beast modifications-imageuploadedbytapatalk1419520997.598860.jpg

    Santa brought my beast some new Bulldozers! Merry Christmas!

  69. #1069
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    whats up guys? New to the site! Ive had a Dozer for about a year, and its been a blast. I've been reading this thread, and have been modding everything out! I'm super excited. Here are some pics.Mongoose Beast modifications-img_4853.jpgMongoose Beast modifications-img_4852.jpgMongoose Beast modifications-img_4871.jpg
    sorry the pics are sideways. I just ordered a Sturmey Archer RK3, so I'm pretty pumped about that.

    Mongoose Beast modifications-img_4941.jpgMongoose Beast modifications-img_4940.jpgMongoose Beast modifications-img_4930.jpg

    Here are my attempts to run tubeless. Im just going to do the split tire setup with 20x3.0 stingray tires. I have so surly Nates to throw on them as well.

    Heres my frame ready to be stripped down to the metal!
    Mongoose Beast modifications-img_4957.jpg
    ill keep you guys updated. Also throwing a BB7 in the rear!

  70. #1070
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    Quote Originally Posted by elee View Post
    If it's stock then most likely it's 36/18 which will be tough in snow.
    I forget to reply to this. I'm running stock gearing and it is 32/18.

  71. #1071
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    Seems this thread is loosing momentum !

    Anyway, I'll share my thoughts after riding the beast for quite some time.

    I ran 2*7 kms (2*4.3 mi) everyday to get to work.
    I experienced a lot of different conditions (fresh snow, ice, slush, clean road).
    I can say it's really nice in fresh snow (not too deep), not very useful on ice (a little better with the extra contact surface but still slippy) and worst on slush (slush stick to the tire and you need extra effort to move).

    I really like my Big'O MFG fenders.
    I swapped the 4" tubes for 2.4" specialized tubes (700 grs V.S 200 grs). They seems to hold up for now.
    I'm still seeking lighter tires at a bargain and my 22 tooth rear sprocket but it's rideable as is. It's just demanding depending on the conditions.

    Yesterday I took off the bottom bracket and saw there was no grease (I didn't check this part after buying) The result was a busted bearing. Some balls were event missing bits. So I changed the balls, put some grease and it was way better
    Mongoose Beast modifications-img_20150122_193056.jpg

  72. #1072
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    Hopefully before you trash your spindle and need a replacement, you might want to get the YST cup & bearings set. And BB shell & spindle fully cleaned and regreased, and fully packed with grease so there's no room for contaminants to get inside easily.

    See "Bottom Bracket Cup & Bearings" in this post The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite

  73. #1073
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    Hopefully before you trash your spindle and need a replacement, you might want to get the YST cup & bearings set. And BB shell & spindle fully cleaned and regreased, and fully packed with grease so there's no room for contaminants to get inside easily.

    See "Bottom Bracket Cup & Bearings" in this post The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite
    Thanks for the info, the spindle is okay. I will check these parts more often from now on !

  74. #1074
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    Okay, so if a person was getting a bit more serious about buying one of these piles but wanted a single speed, would you be better off going with the beast or converting a Dolo?

    I guess what I'm most curious about would be the coaster brake, not sure how well it'd hold up.

    If my parents would let me have another bike in the garage, I'd already have one or the other. I think it'd be fun to strip the frame and paint it along with the rims, maybe put some floaters or V8's on it.

  75. #1075
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    Given the option, I would go Dolomite and convert to single. That way you have the brake setup, and the gears would be available too should you want them.

  76. #1076
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  77. #1077
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    Yeah, I think you're probably right...

  78. #1078
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shinkers View Post
    Okay, so if a person was getting a bit more serious about buying one of these piles but wanted a single speed, would you be better off going with the beast or converting a Dolo?

    I guess what I'm most curious about would be the coaster brake, not sure how well it'd hold up.

    If my parents would let me have another bike in the garage, I'd already have one or the other. I think it'd be fun to strip the frame and paint it along with the rims, maybe put some floaters or V8's on it.
    I had the same project: budget fat bike for winter commuting (the less the parts the better). I was looking for single speed or internal geared hub and coaster brake. I guess it wouldn't hurt to have disk brake on the front.

    In fact I need a dutch fat bike :-)

    The coaster brake is okay for commuting but could be dangerous if you need to be stable on the pedals. You could brake without noticing. It happened to me.

    blow240 link is very interesting. Too bad I don't live in the US :-/

  79. #1079
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    Quote Originally Posted by xobloof View Post
    So I broke the driver a few weeks ago. Right at the weld where all the others break. I had about 320 mile on it when it broke, and I mash up some pretty big hills. (32x20)

    While looking for a replacement hub I came across the spec sheet for a Sun Crusher fat bike which uses the same rear hub. Down at the bottom of the page was this

    """
    Service Parts Description
    Hub Rear Part KT One-Piece Coaster Brake Driver for 170mm Hub
    """

    So it looks like they have changed the driver manufacturing method.

    I also found a whole hub assembly online for about $35 and it just arrived today. I opened it up and it had no weld on the driver. I am going to try just swapping the driver from the new hub to the original one so I don't have to re-lace the rim.

    I have two beasts (one for me and one for the GF). Mine came with at 36t chain ring, ordered Nov '13. The GFs came with a 32t chain ring, ordered Feb '14. I am wondering if the newer 32t versions also have the upgraded driver. I have yet to open up the GFs rear hub and check. Can anyone confirm this suspicion?

    Keep on Klunkin'

    ETA:

    The new hub part number is 'KT-319R'
    KTs website lists it as a tricycle hub
    ::: WELCOME TO KT :::
    Thank you, Sir, you saved my Fat Wally! Just like many others, I broke the driver in the hub while hard pedaling uphill. The KT-319R hub sold by Bikewagon has indeed a single-piece driver that will hopefully last longer than that POS welded one.

  80. #1080
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    I found something strange with my specialized 2.3 tube. It doesn't inflate evenly.
    Did you guys had the same issue ? I can feel a flat point on my wheel when i'm riding. I did not notice it until I changed the original beast tires for some 120tpi Vee Snowshoe.Mongoose Beast modifications-img_20150128_132312%5B1%5D.jpg

  81. #1081
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    A word of caution on overly drilled rims:


    I had one that stared to fail this weekend! The spoke tension is pulling the rim towards the center and there isn't enough meat to keep the aluminum from bending. This is on the triangle holes rim.



    The rims I have with the 1.5" holes are holding up fine.

  82. #1082
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    just picked up a beast, started to some mods on it, drilling rims and am going to make some adaptors for rim brakes, will post some pics soon

  83. #1083
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    Quote Originally Posted by gorman2040 View Post
    Seems this thread is loosing momentum !

    Anyway, I'll share my thoughts after riding the beast for quite some time.

    I ran 2*7 kms (2*4.3 mi) everyday to get to work.
    I experienced a lot of different conditions (fresh snow, ice, slush, clean road).
    I can say it's really nice in fresh snow (not too deep), not very useful on ice (a little better with the extra contact surface but still slippy) and worst on slush (slush stick to the tire and you need extra effort to move).

    I really like my Big'O MFG fenders.
    I swapped the 4" tubes for 2.4" specialized tubes (700 grs V.S 200 grs). They seems to hold up for now.
    I'm still seeking lighter tires at a bargain and my 22 tooth rear sprocket but it's rideable as is. It's just demanding depending on the conditions.

    Yesterday I took off the bottom bracket and saw there was no grease (I didn't check this part after buying) The result was a busted bearing. Some balls were event missing bits. So I changed the balls, put some grease and it was way better
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20150122_193056.jpg 
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    I have a couple sealed direct replacements still available...

  84. #1084
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    Yes, it started as a beast...

  85. #1085
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    I love bikes that started as a Beast!




  86. #1086
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    Quote Originally Posted by chopsmitty View Post
    I have a couple sealed direct replacements still available...
    Where can I find more info on this?

  87. #1087
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    Bonking ... not feelin' well

    You'd have to pm Chopsmitty for that. I think he made them from scratch. Tommisea bikes sells a decent BB for $40 that works on a Beast with a couple spacers. Seen on this thread way back page 20 maybe. https://www.fatbeachbikes.com/TommiS...bracket-detail WOW on sale for $20!-- But out of stock-- I recommend Beastriders with stock BB get this if it becomes available 7/1/15.

  88. #1088
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    The tommisea seems like a good deal, but I have a feeling that the chopsmitty one is much higher quality. I haven't seen either, but judging by his pics, his work is outstanding.

  89. #1089
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    Anyone in Canada looking to get a Beast, beware of Walmart Canada's offering the single speed Huffy Wicket Moose for $298 CAD.
    Walmart Canada

    Name:  Huffy Wicked Moose.jpg
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    I saw it in a store the other day. Before you buy, take a good look at how the seat stays are attached to the seat tube. I wouldn't want any air, and I'm not so sure about it surviving many curbs.

    Same rims as a Dolo. Same tires as early Dolo and Beast. Coaster brake. Seat tube angled more to the rear, otherwise geometry is pretty close. I'll have to go back and count the teeth on the gears, 'cause that front ring looked huge (looks to be 20% more diameter than the original Beast ring) - no idea what they were thinking.

    Walmart Canada (online) is also offering a single speed Polaris Wooly Bully for $515 CAD with a front disc brake and an "aluminum handle bar" (must be why it's so expensive...).
    Walmart Canada

    "fat bike" at walmart.ca also turns up Huffy's Wicked Grizzly 20" one-speed boys fat bike for $148 CAD. (Walmart Canada) and Queens Greatest Hits...

  90. #1090
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  91. #1091
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    Strange, they say aluminium frame but 26 Kgs net weight.

    Something's not right...

  92. #1092
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    A chinese distributors website isn't accurate? Now I've seen everything.

    I wish you could buy individual items off Alibaba. Everything on there seems to have a 100 to 1000 minimum order. I like bikes, but I'd have a hard time justifying getting 100 of the same bike.

  93. #1093
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    Well, if they could make the beast in aluminium alloy, it would make it even better at modding.

    The main reason I sold mine was that I could never lighten the frame (around 13 pounds with the fork). Changing tires and tubes was easy but the rest is more time consuming for me.

  94. #1094
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    I'd like to buy these handlebars:
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014VV9TA...D1IJSJIP&psc=1

    and this stem:
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004JKCALY...ERAT36EJ&psc=1

    What kind of threaded to headless adapter do I need? What size?

  95. #1095
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hulk311 View Post
    I'd like to buy these handlebars:
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014VV9TA...D1IJSJIP&psc=1

    and this stem:
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004JKCALY...ERAT36EJ&psc=1

    What kind of threaded to headless adapter do I need? What size?
    I did the same thing but found out it didn't work too well. I suggest trying one or the other at first, then see what it feels like before moving on.

  96. #1096
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    Dead Beast

    Hi friends,

    After reading through most of this thread, I decided to dig out my broken Beast and restore it. I am missing some components and could use some suggestions for replacements.Mongoose Beast modifications-20161124_144601.jpg

    I already purchased some of the suggested parts, such as the 22t rear cog.

    As you can see, I am missing the entire crankset, and bottom bracket. What are my options for replacements?

    Tips would be greatly appreciated, I am pretty new to this sport.

  97. #1097
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    I'd grab a Vuelta crankset off amazon (or used from a local bike co-op), and one of these bottom brackets. You might have to do some bottom bracket shimming to get the chainline and crankarm clearance right.
    https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SM1OWOO
    https://smile.amazon.com/Vuelta-8150.../dp/B0081UV7LC
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

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