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Manitou Mastodon?

437K views 2K replies 286 participants last post by  Donkeeboy 
#1 ·
I've heard that Treks are being spec'd with this new fork from Manitou. Has anyone heard any details?
 
#134 ·
Dougal -
I rigged this version up from a standard Manitou 3/comp, an even wider '95 crown would definitely be better even. My fat Manitou (aka dumbo?) has 92.5mm of clearance between the stanchions, just barely enough for a 3.8 larry tire (88mm carcass width on a 44mm snowcat rim). I had to modify the fork pushrod and elastomers/springs to bottom out before the tire hits the fork crown and also to extend the fork a bit when uncompressed. I transplanted the arch brace from a Manitou 1 fork (significantly taller) onto the Manitou 3 lowers in order to gain enough brace clearance for the taller tire. Installing/removing the wheel requires partially deflating the tire to get it past the cantilever brake bosses.

The forks coil spring has no dampening, I would like add the EPC dampening from a Manitou 4 but have not yet sourced an EPC donor. I would also like to try fabricating an entirely new fork dropout incorporating disk-brake mounts and more fork rake (these early manitous only had around 38mm or rake, generates excessive fork trail with a slack HTA.)

My Manitou dumbo suspension setup admittedly has its limitations but I've had it on my fat bike for almost 5 years now and it had been dependable, works reasonably well.
 
#1,978 ·
My wife and I had both and prefer Gen 3. It seems more supple and readily uses more of its travel. Some won’t like the new compression damping but we prefer it. Functionally it’s been fine down to 15 deg F and the ability to quickly adjust it for varying terrain is much improved.

Your question on rigid vs Mastadon comes down to the terrain you ride, your riding style/speed, and personal preference. Theres a lot to be said for a light fork and a lot for suspension if you’re blasting over roots and rocks at higher speeds. My wife much prefers the Mastadon but I appreciated rigid at times too, depending on the speed. There’s no right or wrong answer if you’re on the fence. Maybe test ride a friend;’s bike?
 
#320 ·
You win Ben. I give up. You are always right, everyone else but Mike C is always wrong. You are the best at everything and know more than the engineers that design every product ever.

Congratulations.

Keep me blocked and I'll keep you blocked and we'll all be a happy family again.

Get over yourself, and take your own advice.
 
#1,134 · (Edited)
OK everyone, sorry for being gone for a while, work is a crazy thing sometimes!

I'll sum this up as fast as I can.

The steerer on these forks is sometimes loose in the crown and can move during the first few rides which makes the headset loose. This is a fact that I have proved with my second fork by taking before and after measurements of the steerers position. This one did exactly the same thing as my first, but much faster. I also called Hayes/Manitou about this and they confirmed that it does happen, that they consider it normal, and why it happens.

It is not the star nut or stem moving at the top. I've also confirmed this with before and after measurements.

They said, tighten it up until it stops moving and keep riding, you are all good. Be sure to check you have enough spacers or room at the top of the stem after it moves.

It happens because they press the steerer into the crown to a set pressure, not until it bottom out in the crown. This is done to avoid pressing in too far and causing other issue. That is straight from Hayes/Manitou.

Now, I've never had any other fork do this and I'm not 100% sold that it should happen. But I'm going to trust them here and see what happens. As it turns out my first fork only came a smidge loose after my last posting, which I tightened up and have not seen it move since. And, I beleive one other poster reported that his stopped moving as well. So, I'll go with Manitou's suggestion and snug it up and keep riding.

Have a great ride boys...

New, pre-ride.
Grey Bicycle part Composite material Close-up Carbon



Same fork a short ride later.
Azure Teal Material property Close-up Carbon

 
#1,137 ·
It happens because they press the steerer into the crown to a set pressure, not until it bottom out in the crown. This is done to avoid pressing in too far and causing other issue. That is straight from Hayes/Manitou.
Heh. Holding pattern on comment except to say: when you feel like you've done everything right, and it keeps loosening - it's pretty understandable that someone would crank down on the starnut bolt (in desperation, etc) and see it move/pullout some. As I said, symptom not cause - and super interesting.

Godspeed internet arguers.

I'll break out just two: that the new equipment is in spec & this application is similar to others you know well. I personally feel that the Mastodon is in spec - the ID/OD conform to normal expectations so unless the steerers were not fully pressed - the fork mfging doesn't seem to be the cause.
 
#1,690 ·
Hi, I have the Trek Farley 9.6 (2018 model) and the frame size is 17.5''. I updated my rigid carbon fork to the Mastodon Pro Ext 120mm version. The Mastodon comes with the shorter knobs, and I had no issues in frame clearance. Oh my gosh, what a change form slow trail riding to most fun ride ever!

My bike is a 2016 Farley 5, I had to use a Crane Creek + 6mm race and now my Mastodon fork clears my frame by just under 1/4 inch. Prior to adding the CC race it was just scraping the frame with the fork lockout (knob) all the way open. I'm running a STD 120 fork and in my opinion the bike feels perfect now with just enough slackness and the tire out in front vs. the rigid geometry. The fork completely changes the ride characteristics. I had no idea what I was missing.
 
#1,759 ·
And you gotta watch your tire size, I have around 1/3” clearance at 150mm with a standard pro converted from an EXT. Tire 26” D5. The 150 EXT has the different parts that can accommodate bigger tires.
 
#1,791 · (Edited)
Tire pressures are always dictated by the terrain, as in the snow consistency, depth, how packed, etc. It's a floating number. If you go low, then the fork won't activate as easily, but it's more important for the tires to work properly in the snow for traction, so you might need less pressure in the fork. My pumps are all showing different numbers, so I'm not sure if they'd be helpful. I know at one time my summer number was 70, but when I take it outside I often have to adjust the pressure in the winter for different temps. Weekend before last, it was 0°F. This weekend it was 25°.
 
#1,823 ·
#1,903 ·
I get between 143.27 mm and 143.51 mm. On my dial caliper it is just a smidge over 5.64 inches. Converting to mm gets the results posted.

To get this value I used threaded rod with a coupler and a bolt and adjusted the bolt in/out until the rod just passes. Then I measured the rod length with the caliper.

Mastodon Pro G3. Has the front mounted brake hose.
 
#1,906 ·
I'm running it now on a Gen 2 without issues, but there needs to be a good-straight tire. Had one that wobbled quite badly and was rubbing (replaced via warranty). In my case it's also 2XL + 128 mm rim, but the tire is new, not Mike's ultra stretched, so it's less than 139 mm wide.

With the 128 mm rims, the tire is a bit flatter so on the Mastodon EXT version there's plenty of crown clearance when the fork is fully deflated and fully compressed.

Was inquiring about the Gen 3 for two reasons: in case my fork gets replaced due to that knocking-play, and if I need to stock up on a backup fork in case of less clearance.
 
#1,910 ·
Got my Snow Camo Mastodon back from warranty. Feels plush but tight tolerance in the lowers with the bushings. I also asked them to set it to STD from EXT which they did for me while they had it. Basically the fork performs like everything I have read about the fork and everything I wanted this purchase to be.

This is replacing my 8 year old Bluto. Which had developed some minor bushing/stanchion play. A shame that, in corresponding with SRAM last week (via email), they told me that the only solution is to replace the whole lower. Something I am not going to do. I just installed the charger damper upgrade last spring and it does work way better than the stock damper. I’ll use it in the winters and do the last 40/50 hour service on it when it needs it and then hang it on the wall as art after that.

Fingers crossed that the Mastodon doesn’t let me down cause right now it is wonderful!!

Happy holidays everyone!!
 
#1,930 · (Edited)
I recently got a Gen3 Mastadon. I dont have experience with the any other Manitou products. I absolutely love this fork.

My riding style:
I like to feel supported and not use all my travel unless the obstacle I'm hitting requires it.

For my initial setup I tried using the middle IVA setting and the recommended air pressure for my weight using the chart on the left leg.

When I pump this fork up to the recommended pressure, I get just under 10mm of sag on my 120mm fork. It felt good but I wasnt using all my travel on my local trail network.

Next I set the IVA to the highest position, or the most linear setup. I then re-inflated back to the recommended pressure. I really liked this because I was using all my travel and felt just as supported.

Next I took a lap down my local enduro trails. I found I was not as supported due to the chunkier repetative hits and steep terrain. I bumped the pressure up 5 psi, and it is perfectly dialed for me.

Now I am running >5mm sag and it feels super supportive, yet still moves out of the way for bigger hits. I am absolutely amazed by this fork; So much so Ive been playing with the idea of swapping my Fox38 on my Enduro bike for a Mezzer. I cant say enough good things about the Mastadon.




Tire Bicycle Wheel Crankset Bicycle handlebar
 
#1,983 ·
It was -32F on Saturday, it rarely gets this cold here and while I don't run any suspension in these temps...yeah, it'd be nice to have the option. We had a real messed up course with some pretty bad holes from people walking, but the Mastodon is off-the-table due to how bad the air spring is in the cold.

My choice of bike is generally dictated by the surface conditions, not the temperature. I realize the suspension isn't intended for the super-cold temps, but it should at least be able to go to -10F frequently with no ill effects. I have serious doubts as to Manitou's testing here. I know our local "Wren" tester who did a lot of their PR is in no way an aggressive rider. Personally, I think a fork that can go to 140 or 160mm of travel should be capable of riding like the travel allows, like I'd expect a long travel trail or enduro bike to ride.

I suspect you'll start seeing the issues with your G3 Mastodon in the cold during the 2nd season, and then it will just get more common as you replace the seals, like I have. It's the same spring system, so it's going to have the same behavior IMO. They should just get the air-seal kits ready to go so you don't have to get the whole rebuild kit, then give an endless supply or something.

 
#11 ·
hmmmm...I have a BNIB Bluto to install too...maybe I will wait it out.

a wider version of the Magnum? The Magnum was factory on the Stache but it's pretty expensive aftermarket.
 
#80 ·
That seems whacked as ****, the MC2 has the ABS+ knob and the ABS+ has the MC2 knob? Maybe the tapewall version with the cartridge damper is 200g heavier, but that seems suspect too. And they don't even get HBO.
 
#208 ·
Okay guys, here's the deal with the tyre size and std vs extended.

The max tyre size is dictated by the number of spacers you have under the bottom-out bumpers. More spacers means the crown stops higher up and you can run a bigger tyre safely.
The max height of the fork depends on std vs ext and can be reduced by spacers under the top-out bumpers if it's too tall for your frame.
The travel you get is the distance between top-out and bottom-out.

So if you want to run tyres a bit bigger than standard, you can add spacers under the bottom-out bumpers (10mm increments). But this will reduce travel. Which may or may not be a problem for you.

It's all shown in the pictures in the travel change manual (page 9). But there is the complication of different stanchion lengths: https://www.manitoumtb.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/Mastodon-ProComp-Travel-Change-Guide.pdf

Bottom-Out Std Version:
5 spacers for 80-100mm.
1 spacer for 120-140mm.
1 spacer for 150mm.

You can run 20mm bigger (diameter) tyres by fitting 1 extra 10mm spacer to the above numbers. Travel is reduced by 10mm.
You can run 40mm bigger (diameter) tyres by fitting 2 extra 10mm spacers to the above numbers. Travel is reduced by 20mm. This gives you same clearance as EXT version, but 20mm less travel.

Look at it this way. EXT is a 20mm taller fork. You can adjust the tyre clearance of STD to the same point, but you'll be 20mm short on travel.
 
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