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  1. #1301
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    That is indeed how the drawings show it. I'll ask the Engineers what's going on.

    I haven't yet seen a Mastodon Comp in the metal. Only Mastodon Pro's.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz and NZ Manitou Agent.
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  2. #1302
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    Hi Guys, I have read the Entire Thread which threw me head into some mind boggling decisions decisions... But I love the fact that all of you Praise this fork! I have had a Pike for a little bit and it was Soo Good but you guys say this is much Much Better.

    I'm currently decided to get a Mastodon Comp STD but I have a critical question about A-to-C and head angles stuff...
    My bike is currently a 2015 Norco Bigfoot 6.2, in the summer I run 29+3.0 tires, in the winter I'd like to run Bud and Lou with Thick Ghetto Studs.

    The Original rigid Fork is 455mm in length, currently I'm on CC EC44/40 which adds 12mm to stack height + Lauf Carbonara (495mm A-to-C) so I'm already at +52mm - this Does Ride Fine(no HS spacers) except - the Lauf is Really short travel and really bouncy and I sometimes like to enjoy a Rock Garden... but this is impossible. Then again Really good at the small stuff + 2 Great points: 0 maintenance and 1.1KG weight.

    I see More Economical/Practical sense to buy the COMP STD 120mm - versatile travel maybe will extend to 140mm (or some one said up to 150mm).
    Tech support suggested that with SAG(20%) During the ride I would get 495mm A-to-C on the 100mm EXT COMP Set Lowered to 80mm.
    Considering the STD Comp is 20mm shorter A-to-C I can manage the same A-to-C with SAG on 100mm STD Comp (not lowered) - but looks like will need to make sure the fork is not touching the tires at full compression.

    Now here are the thoughts I wanted a second Take on:
    1. If I get the 100mm STD COMP - will I need to put stoppers to prevent the BUD+studs from reaching the fork at full compression? can it be done without any specific tools.
    2. Is there any way to lower the 120 STD COMP? or reduce Ride height - don't want to go too too much higher than needed.
    3. Will all the tools(or a mattoc kit) + oil + ETC will be required in order to run 29+/26x4.85(studded BUD)

    I'm some what handy, but i did try to take apart a pike uturn air and service it and didn't really work out tooo tooo well... not sure how much more complicated this would be.

    Ahead of time I want to thank you all for the great thread!

  3. #1303
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    So about that gap shim in the Mastodon Comp rebound damper. I have official word back from the Engineers.

    It's there for extra flow in very cold weather to stop the rebound getting too slow. If you're fat-biking above zero then feel free to remove it.

    The average fork oil gets over 5x thicker from 40C down to 0C. So it's difficult to tune for both.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz and NZ Manitou Agent.
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  4. #1304
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    So about that gap shim in the Mastodon Comp rebound damper. I have official word back from the Engineers.

    It's there for extra flow in very cold weather to stop the rebound getting too slow. If you're fat-biking above zero then feel free to remove it.

    The average fork oil gets over 5x thicker from 40C down to 0C. So it's difficult to tune for both.
    Many thanks Dougal!
    I will rearrange the stack while switching to Supergliss in the lower

  5. #1305
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    Quote Originally Posted by madmitry View Post
    Hi Guys, I have read the Entire Thread which threw me head into some mind boggling decisions decisions... But I love the fact that all of you Praise this fork! I have had a Pike for a little bit and it was Soo Good but you guys say this is much Much Better.

    I'm currently decided to get a Mastodon Comp STD but I have a critical question about A-to-C and head angles stuff...
    My bike is currently a 2015 Norco Bigfoot 6.2, in the summer I run 29+3.0 tires, in the winter I'd like to run Bud and Lou with Thick Ghetto Studs.

    The Original rigid Fork is 455mm in length, currently I'm on CC EC44/40 which adds 12mm to stack height + Lauf Carbonara (495mm A-to-C) so I'm already at +52mm - this Does Ride Fine(no HS spacers) except - the Lauf is Really short travel and really bouncy and I sometimes like to enjoy a Rock Garden... but this is impossible. Then again Really good at the small stuff + 2 Great points: 0 maintenance and 1.1KG weight.

    I see More Economical/Practical sense to buy the COMP STD 120mm - versatile travel maybe will extend to 140mm (or some one said up to 150mm).
    Tech support suggested that with SAG(20%) During the ride I would get 495mm A-to-C on the 100mm EXT COMP Set Lowered to 80mm.
    Considering the STD Comp is 20mm shorter A-to-C I can manage the same A-to-C with SAG on 100mm STD Comp (not lowered) - but looks like will need to make sure the fork is not touching the tires at full compression.

    Now here are the thoughts I wanted a second Take on:
    1. If I get the 100mm STD COMP - will I need to put stoppers to prevent the BUD+studs from reaching the fork at full compression? can it be done without any specific tools.
    2. Is there any way to lower the 120 STD COMP? or reduce Ride height - don't want to go too too much higher than needed.
    3. Will all the tools(or a mattoc kit) + oil + ETC will be required in order to run 29+/26x4.85(studded BUD)

    I'm some what handy, but i did try to take apart a pike uturn air and service it and didn't really work out tooo tooo well... not sure how much more complicated this would be.

    Ahead of time I want to thank you all for the great thread!
    Always get the longer fork, you can reduce height and travel with top-out spacers in the air-side.

    You need to check the inflated OD of all those tyres to see how much clearance they'll have and how many bottom-out spacers you may or may not need to run to stop them buzzing the crown at full compression.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz and NZ Manitou Agent.
    www.dougal.co.nz Suspension setup & tuning.
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  6. #1306
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    Always get the longer fork, you can reduce height and travel with top-out spacers in the air-side.

    You need to check the inflated OD of all those tyres to see how much clearance they'll have and how many bottom-out spacers you may or may not need to run to stop them buzzing the crown at full compression.
    Thanks Dougal.. IS it difficult to reduce travel?
    my outside diameters are 75.57cm(bud) and 76.2cm(29+)
    per site its min distance to crown 26mm, max OD 758mm

    Is it difficult to put in the bottom out spacers (looks like I'm 6.3mm apart between the two tires I think I'll keep one consistent setup)?

  7. #1307
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    Quote Originally Posted by madmitry View Post
    Thanks Dougal.. IS it difficult to reduce travel?
    my outside diameters are 75.57cm(bud) and 76.2cm(29+)
    per site its min distance to crown 26mm, max OD 758mm

    Is it difficult to put in the bottom out spacers (looks like I'm 6.3mm apart between the two tires I think I'll keep one consistent setup)?
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWN7FxNb2u4 at the beginning they show how to adjust the spacers is that what you meant? so what would be a procedure to make it shorter (if needed)?
    and where to put the bottom out spacers?

    thanks!

  8. #1308
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    Quote Originally Posted by madmitry View Post
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWN7FxNb2u4 at the beginning they show how to adjust the spacers is that what you meant? so what would be a procedure to make it shorter (if needed)?
    and where to put the bottom out spacers?

    thanks!
    https://www.manitoumtb.com/wp-conten...ange-Guide.pdf

    Top-out spacers are under the air piston (inside the stanchion) they reduce fork length and travel.

    Bottom out spacers are under the stanchions (inside the lower legs) and reduce fork travel while increasing tyre clearance.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz and NZ Manitou Agent.
    www.dougal.co.nz Suspension setup & tuning.
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  9. #1309
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    https://www.manitoumtb.com/wp-conten...ange-Guide.pdf

    Top-out spacers are under the air piston (inside the stanchion) they reduce fork length and travel.

    Bottom out spacers are under the stanchions (inside the lower legs) and reduce fork travel while increasing tyre clearance.
    This looks like I'll need the Mattoc Toolkit, would I need Grease? Oil? and torque wrench?

    And would include removing the Lowers Am I correct in this?

    Kind of like here: https://youtu.be/4PtIW79qN00

    So basically taking the Mastodon Comp STD Spacer Guide
    the 120mm comes with 1 bottom out spacer (P/N - 121-29113) in order to decrease travel I would need to put in 1(total of 2) Spacer to increase bottom out clearance by 10mm - thus reducing the travel by 10mm right?

    For Top-out Spacers Mastodon Comp STD Spacer Guide
    the 120mm comes with 3 Top-out spacers (same P/N) and if I need to reduce Travel I'll need to put 1(total of 4) more spacer in 10mm Increments?

    Thanks! Especially for your Patience!
    I know you have said it probably a few times, I'm just trying to reiterate so that I fully understand...

  10. #1310
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    See this post for a step by step on accessing the air and rebound shafts to change the travel:
    Manitou Mastodon?

    The Mattoc tool kit is worthwhile and makes this easy. Everything else needed is spelled out steps called out from the manuals.

    Note that, unlike the Pro, the Comp air and rebound shafts have different diameters so the spacers are not interchangeable between the shafts. If you are intending to reduce travel by 10mm you'll need one spacer for each shaft.

  11. #1311
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    Quote Originally Posted by david.p View Post
    See this post for a step by step on accessing the air and rebound shafts to change the travel:
    Manitou Mastodon?

    The Mattoc tool kit is worthwhile and makes this easy. Everything else needed is spelled out steps called out from the manuals.

    Note that, unlike the Pro, the Comp air and rebound shafts have different diameters so the spacers are not interchangeable between the shafts. If you are intending to reduce travel by 10mm you'll need one spacer for each shaft.
    I now have a decent supply of the 10mm thick spacers for 10mm diameter air-shafts: https://www.shockcraft.co.nz/travel-...t-manitou.html
    Also the 10mm thick spacers for 12.7mm diameter Comp damper shafts: https://www.shockcraft.co.nz/travel-...t-manitou.html

    I don't yet have a good supply of the 10mm thick spacers for 10mm diameter Pro damper shafts. I just need the individual part number which I should have in a week or so.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz and NZ Manitou Agent.
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  12. #1312
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    anyone has a spare decal kit can let me have it?
    17 Lynskey Fatskey
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    My Parts for sale link

  13. #1313
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    I'm about to purchase the Pro EXT version. Do both 100 mm and 120 mm come with equal amount of damper and spring side spacers with the fork? Or should I prefer either 100 or 120 version to get the most amount of spacers that come with the fork from factory?

    Отправлено с моего SM-G955F через Tapatalk

  14. #1314
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    Quote Originally Posted by madmitry View Post
    Hi Guys... in the summer I run 29+3.0 tires, in the winter I'd like to run Bud and Lou with Thick Ghetto Studs.
    The Bud on my Mastodon Pro without studs will rub the underside of the crown just a wee bit on really hard landings/bumps. I'm 6'4" tall, 240lbs and can shift alot of weight to the fork so as suggested in this post somewhere I re-arranged the spacers in the IVA so that the fork is more progressive and prevents the tire from hitting the crown as often or as hard. It can still touch it, just not very violently.

    The 120mm fork comes with 4 spacers on the IVA, three under and one above. With the Bud on I like one under and three above, then run 10-15psi less than in the fork. With smaller tires running two under, two above is also very nice.

    It should take about 1 minute to adjust the IVA so it's worth trying out.

  15. #1315
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    Quote Originally Posted by Troy Carter View Post
    The Bud on my Mastodon Pro without studs will rub the underside of the crown just a wee bit on really hard landings/bumps. I'm 6'4" tall, 240lbs and can shift alot of weight to the fork so as suggested in this post somewhere I re-arranged the spacers in the IVA so that the fork is more progressive and prevents the tire from hitting the crown as often or as hard. It can still touch it, just not very violently.

    The 120mm fork comes with 4 spacers on the IVA, three under and one above. With the Bud on I like one under and three above, then run 10-15psi less than in the fork. With smaller tires running two under, two above is also very nice.

    It should take about 1 minute to adjust the IVA so it's worth trying out.
    The better solution in this case would be to put some spacers(metal washers) under the rubber bump stop

  16. #1316
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcracer2 View Post
    The better solution in this case would be to put some spacers(metal washers) under the rubber bump stop
    Dude, you don't need to go Further Than this page to see that you are NOT correct. Please read Below

  17. #1317
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    Quote Originally Posted by madmitry View Post
    Dude, you don't need to go Further Than this page to see that you are NOT correct. Please read Below
    I don't think you understand; if you only need a few mm of clearance you can install smaller spacers than the big ones under the compression stop rather than a 10mm change or whatever. Changing to a more progressive air curve will help but tire clearance issues to the crown should be handled by the rubber bump stop. What happens when the temp drops 40deg and the tire slams the crown because sag wasn't reset for the temp?

  18. #1318
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcracer2 View Post
    The better solution in this case would be to put some spacers(metal washers) under the rubber bump stop
    This could possibly create a bit more clearance but it's not something I looked into at all.

    At my size I could blow through the stock IVA position pretty easily. So it's not that i was strictly trying to keep the tire from hitting but more trying to tune the fork for what I wanted with the side effect of the tire hitting far less often or aggressively. Luckily, they were nice enough to include the IVA just for my primary purpose.

  19. #1319
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    Reply #1308 from the PRO:
    https://www.manitoumtb.com/wp-conten...ange-Guide.pdf

    Top-out spacers are under the air piston (inside the stanchion) they reduce fork length and travel.

    Bottom out spacers are under the stanchions (inside the lower legs) and reduce fork travel while increasing tyre clearance.

  20. #1320
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcracer2 View Post
    I don't think you understand; if you only need a few mm of clearance you can install smaller spacers than the big ones under the compression stop rather than a 10mm change or whatever. Changing to a more progressive air curve will help but tire clearance issues to the crown should be handled by the rubber bump stop. What happens when the temp drops 40deg and the tire slams the crown because sag wasn't reset for the temp?
    I'm not taking my Bud out when it's that cold, only down to maybe -10f for me and it worked well enough for me in those conditions with the sag set in the cold. Just a light rub...I'll live with that.

  21. #1321
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    Is there a way to get the 8mm thin wall socket without buying the whole tool kit? Want to drop the lowers, check the oil. Lots of stiction...

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

  22. #1322
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    In case anyone with a Sasquatch is wondering, the crown and knobs clear no problem on a size large frame.

    I'm only one ride in, but ho-lee-chit! I cannot believe how much better the bike feels compared to the Bluto. All I did was set sag, put the rebound knob in the middle and left everything else wide open. The front wheel sticks to the ground and goes where you point it. Feels like cheating.

  23. #1323
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rangie View Post
    In case anyone with a Sasquatch is wondering, the crown and knobs clear no problem on a size large frame.

    I'm only one ride in, but ho-lee-chit! I cannot believe how much better the bike feels compared to the Bluto. All I did was set sag, put the rebound knob in the middle and left everything else wide open. The front wheel sticks to the ground and goes where you point it. Feels like cheating.
    NOOiiiCE!!!, i just got mine in the mail, 120 STD Comp, With remote lockout, tax in, shipped from australia 600CAD (15% off of ebay was applied they had like 1 day off everything) hoping to fit it tonight on a Bigfoot

  24. #1324
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    Quote Originally Posted by compengr View Post
    Is there a way to get the 8mm thin wall socket without buying the whole tool kit? Want to drop the lowers, check the oil. Lots of stiction...

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
    I sell them: https://www.shockcraft.co.nz/modifie...015-later.html

    Alternatively you can make your own if you have access to a lathe.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz and NZ Manitou Agent.
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  25. #1325
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    Anyone know if the Quarq Shockwiz can be used w Mastodon?

    Doesnít the fork allow the lowers to be moved up and down by hand when a pump is threaded onto the schrader valve?

  26. #1326
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    It will only work if you use an IRT without its IFP as a top cap

  27. #1327
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    Thanks HappyMTB.fr!!!!!!!

  28. #1328
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    Just had my first ride with a Pro STD at 100mm on my Suzi Q last night. Wicked fork! Might be coming back here for some tuning advice though. Bottom out was pretty harsh, which Iím going to try to fix with a volume spacer today. Compared to the rigid carbon fork, ... there is no comparison. I donít even mind the weight for the gain in comfort.

  29. #1329
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    Well that didnít go the way I expected. Apparently those extra spacers that come with the fork do not function like bottomless tokens. Ended up adding 10 PSI, which appears to have taken the harshness out.

  30. #1330
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    I have a suspension corrected frame designed for a 100mm shock. Can I keep the same A to C but use the 100mm EXT version to fit a 29+ Wheel? And how would I set that up. From reading this thread the EXT really makes it 120mm. I want it to be at 100 I believe.

  31. #1331
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigBran View Post
    I have a suspension corrected frame designed for a 100mm shock. Can I keep the same A to C but use the 100mm EXT version to fit a 29+ Wheel? And how would I set that up. From reading this thread the EXT really makes it 120mm. I want it to be at 100 I believe.
    I would go with the 120 EXT version, and adjust with the air pump attached to lower height to what you want, accounting for Sag. If 100mm is good, then you are all set. If you want you can experiment in seconds at 110, 120, 90, etc.

    I think you need EXT for the 29+ clearance, but I don't run them.
    2017 Santa Cruz Tallboy C 29er
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  32. #1332
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeepRage View Post
    I would go with the 120 EXT version, and adjust with the air pump attached to lower height to what you want, accounting for Sag. If 100mm is good, then you are all set. If you want you can experiment in seconds at 110, 120, 90, etc.

    I think you need EXT for the 29+ clearance, but I don't run them.
    I got my 120 STD COMP - I am running 29+ 3.0" (https://www.veetireco.com/listings/plus-size-t-fatty/) on 50mm Rims and I haven't changed the top/out buttom out spacesrs at all, I have removed all air and fully compressed the fork still not even close to touching, the fork fully compressed has about an inch worth of space between the tire and the Crown.

    I'm Due for a write up but no time
    The fork is Great!

  33. #1333
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    Wonít the 120mm alter the geometry if my frame is suspension corrected for a 100mm shock?

  34. #1334
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigBran View Post
    Wonít the 120mm alter the geometry if my frame is suspension corrected for a 100mm shock?
    Adding suspension to any rigid bike alters its geometry as the suspension cycles. The primary concern about going longer is breaking the frame more than slackening it too much.

  35. #1335
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    anybody rebuild one of these suckers yet? I have two, and one has some miles on it...

  36. #1336
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigBran View Post
    Wonít the 120mm alter the geometry if my frame is suspension corrected for a 100mm shock?
    technically yes, but I went with 120mm STD (which is shorther height then the EXT), and I dont feel the difference.

    Mind you- there is an Easy suspension travel adjustment trick - when the shock pump is connected you are suppose to pump it when the fork is fully extended, however if you compress it say to 100mm and pump - it will fill both negative and positive chambers - it will stay in the travel as is - so you basically can very easily reduce it.
    I have seen people on this forum do that for 20mm, I was able to do it for 30mm (from 120 to 90) however I didn't ride like that and wouldn't know the Repercussion of that.

    All this without doing anything else but changing the spacing on the IVA, as I am about just under 200lb with gear. and the fork feels Good and doesn't seem to be bottoming out (not too aggressive - yet=)

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