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  1. #1101
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    wobbly fork

    My headset seems to have come very loose as well after a 20 km very rocky rooty maiden voyage.It rode fine for the first half hour or so,then started feeling very "clunky" ! I had my fork installed by a bike shop as im a hack of a mechanic and didnt want any dramas.I will take it back today,hopefully they can rectify it.If it is a warranty issue,is it hard to get a replacement seeing as ive had the steerer tube cut down to suite me?Also last night i took out the IVA(thats what the manual calls it) and removed two of the black rings.Now im assuming they stay out,they dont clip back onto the unit somewhere else?Clearly from my post im as handy as a baboon on crack when it comes to bike maintanence!
    Last edited by bikemad1; 02-03-2018 at 03:46 PM. Reason: need more information

  2. #1102
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    Advice welcome

    I'm loosing a bit of my stoke for the Mastodon as of recent. Two issues: Getting excessive sag in the fork on colder days (20 degrees and less) and developing a bit of play in the stanchions.

    Background deets: I have had this STD Comp for about 3 months. I converted it to the 120-140mm travel set-up shortly after purchase. All four spacers set on the IVA, no adjustment to the Damper side. On a Kona Wozo currently running stock 26 x 4.8 front tire on 80mm rim, currently set at 120mm travel. I weigh aprox 175lbs in winter gear and have had to run about 95psi to have it set at appropriate preload, with 3 clicks on the compression dial to not run through travel too quick.

    Questions:
    1. I notice this distinct wallowing into its travel as the temps drop and it just sits around 40mm into its travel and even lower if I am on a sustained downhill. This creates a really terrible geometry for descending with a low/steep front end.
    Should I be moving some spacers around on the damper side to help with ride height to eliminate the wallowing?

    2. Play in stanchions. I just noticed this on the last ride. There is a small degree of forward/rearward play in the stanchions that is not coming from the headset or a loose hub.
    Do I need to overhaul and replace seals already (after just 3 months)?

    I have liked the fork upto recently compared to the Bluto, but I never had these recent traits in a 1 1/2 half of the Bluto.

    Any thoughts are appreciated.

  3. #1103
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    So took the bike back to the shop,mechanic retightened the headset,said dont worry,new bottom cup in headset and they often come abit loose if you thrash it.Rode today,a very nice and not overly rough trail for about 20kms.The fork behaved better with the extra travel,felt pretty good although i had a bit less air pressure in it than i would have liked.But,once again by the end of the ride there is play in the headset!!??Also this mastodon comes with a remote to lock out the fork,that after much adjusting the mechanic couldnt make it work,and there is no option to lock it manually which kind of sucks.Rode it wide open obviously,ok for the trail i rode but the option to lock it out on climbs would be nice,considering the fork comes equipped this way.That been said,i can lock out my other forks manually without needing a lever,would have prefered if this was like that as well.Looks like a phone call to the dealer to see what my options are.Pretty bummed though,was frothing to get this fork,now i have it and it doesnt work as it should,not very impressed

  4. #1104
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikemad1 View Post
    So took the bike back to the shop,mechanic retightened the headset,said dont worry,new bottom cup in headset and they often come abit loose if you thrash it.Rode today,a very nice and not overly rough trail for about 20kms.The fork behaved better with the extra travel,felt pretty good although i had a bit less air pressure in it than i would have liked.But,once again by the end of the ride there is play in the headset!!??Also this mastodon comes with a remote to lock out the fork,that after much adjusting the mechanic couldnt make it work,and there is no option to lock it manually which kind of sucks.Rode it wide open obviously,ok for the trail i rode but the option to lock it out on climbs would be nice,considering the fork comes equipped this way.That been said,i can lock out my other forks manually without needing a lever,would have prefered if this was like that as well.Looks like a phone call to the dealer to see what my options are.Pretty bummed though,was frothing to get this fork,now i have it and it doesnt work as it should,not very impressed




    Sounds like you may want to try a new mechanic. Bottom cup should not come loose just because you ride your bike, and the remote is very easy to set up...

  5. #1105
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    Quote Originally Posted by rvercoe View Post
    I'm loosing a bit of my stoke for the Mastodon as of recent. Two issues: Getting excessive sag in the fork on colder days (20 degrees and less) and developing a bit of play in the stanchions.
    As temps drop so does the air pressure in the fork. Double check air pressure at riding temperature, in any case if if fork is sagging too much add air. Make sure that before you disconnect the pump you extend the fork fully so that you don't lose travel inadvertently.

    If you want to make the fork more progressive in it's spring rate - that is the sag is set correctly but you are using travel too easily - then changing the spacer config on the IVA can help there.

  6. #1106
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikemad1 View Post
    I took out the IVA(thats what the manual calls it) and removed two of the black rings.Now im assuming they stay out,they dont clip back onto the unit somewhere else?
    Did you actually remove spacers from the IVA? The IVA controls the spring rate and the travel adjust guide details how to rearrange them to do so (pg10) - at no point does it say to remove spacers from the IVA.

    Spacers are removed from the top of the air shaft to increase travel, but that is not the IVA.

  7. #1107
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    Quote Originally Posted by david.p View Post
    Did you actually remove spacers from the IVA? The IVA controls the spring rate and the travel adjust guide details how to rearrange them to do so (pg10) - at no point does it say to remove spacers from the IVA.

    Spacers are removed from the top of the air shaft to increase travel, but that is not the IVA.
    On page 10: "If the travel is adjusted, the IVA piston height should also be adjusted to maintain the air spring rate."

    Anyway, I replaced the IVA with the IRT.

  8. #1108
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    It could just as easilly by the wheel moving on the axle or the brake caliper flexing. No amount of grease is going take up slack that is inherent in a suspension fork.

    If you're riding the bike vs flexing it on the floor, you are far less likely to notice flex, just saying

    Honestly, all this headset loosening BS is amazing, it's like the amateur hour on the fat bike forum. If you posted this shite to the regular mtbr forums you'd be laughed off the site.

    Seriously, if you can't set a fork up on your own, then take it to a shop. If a shop can't set up your fork, then find a shop with "competent" mechanics.

    Quote Originally Posted by bikemad1 View Post
    That is what mine feels like, as if the headset is loose. But so did my Bluto, and we worked out it was the stanchions moving subtly in the fork legs, like just a few mom's, but enough to be very irritating.Im hoping a bit of slick honey on the stanchions and setting it up for my weight ( rode it straight out of the shop, no adjustments).I'm also keen to extend it to the 140mm travel, will see if any of these things make it preform better.at the moment it feels like one of those low end piece of shit fork you would find on a department store bike!!😠

  9. #1109
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    Seriously, right? Talk about a lack of mechanical understanding.

    "dude, I was roosting this berm and my lower cup got loose, like whoa!

    Apparently good bike mechanics are hard to find.

    Quote Originally Posted by ahelmus View Post



    Sounds like you may want to try a new mechanic. Bottom cup should not come loose just because you ride your bike, and the remote is very easy to set up...

  10. #1110
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    Quote Originally Posted by HDTVdevil View Post
    On page 10: "If the travel is adjusted, the IVA piston height should also be adjusted to maintain the air spring rate."
    Exactly, by using the table on that page to match the IVA spacer config with the current fork length. Notice all the configurations use the same number of spacers (four) just in different positions - none are removed.

  11. #1111
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Honestly, all this headset loosening BS is amazing, it's like the amateur hour on the fat bike forum. If you posted this shite to the regular mtbr forums you'd be laughed off the site.
    By all means, that's what we should be aspiring to... if people share some experiences and seek insight they should be met with ridicule and exclusion. Great take - inspires contribution and dialog.

  12. #1112
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    Except, dear Carl, this topic and all the misunderstandings have been gone over, and explained, ad nauseum, by those who are willing and able to provide said experience.

    We have since jumped the shark, this discussion has spread misinformation, and now has the propensity to lead potential Mastodon seekers to look elsewhere.

    I know what youíre saying, perhaps it made more sense a couple weeks ago, now itís simply not relevant.

    Quote Originally Posted by Carl Mega View Post
    By all means, that's what we should be aspiring to... if people share some experiences and seek insight they should be met with ridicule and exclusion. Great take - inspires contribution and dialog.

  13. #1113
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    Yes,not all of us are expert bike mechanics or able to insert a catheter.If i were to put many of you in a kitchen on a friday night with 600 covers to pump out in a few hours,most would be well and truly ****ed,though I imagine you can probably manage a bbq for a few friends.....

  14. #1114
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    Once I finally get a ride on mine (rebuilding a wheel with new hub) I'll see if it loosens or not.

  15. #1115
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Except, dear Carl, this topic and all the misunderstandings have been gone over, and explained, ad nauseum, by those who are willing and able to provide said experience.

    We have since jumped the shark, this discussion has spread misinformation, and now has the propensity to lead potential Mastodon seekers to look elsewhere.

    I know what youíre saying, perhaps it made more sense a couple weeks ago, now itís simply not relevant.
    I agree w/ the Mastodon perhaps being wrongly maligned. I really read most of the thread as people broadcasting looking for a pattern/solution after they went through the standard troubleshooting (and tolerate advice that actually was relayed ad nauseum). I, personally welcome discussion and I don't think it's healthy or proper to talk down to people seeking help.

    But here's the problem... Everyone has been wrong. Not bad advice mind you but I've heard what? - 4-5 different things that have been declared as definitively the problem... 'cept none of those are the actual root cause. And consider the hubris - No one else has actually held my fork, examined my work - yet they know. In fact, some of the expert takes (which, ironically, are from actual amateurs (hour - lol) disregarding 2 shops and someone who has at least enough ability to be employed in a few different industry roles) diagnosis the top cap not seating and the crownrace not being set right - are at semi-odds; neither has been my situation btw.

    So a one-dimensional thinker sees the pulling star nut and goes - "blah, star nut has nothing to do with the HS going loose."

    A curious mind sees a pattern of people who were fine prior to this install and now have same symptom - and asks "why is that?" (notice not jumping to conclusion that there is an inherent defect)

    Coming back to the shops - a few insights: it's winter. The summer "help" has left and typically the people in the shop are the lifers and most stable help - not the ones who routinely mess up simple things. 2 - when a problem comes into a shop (like the OP) there's always a curious huddle trying to diagnose looking for the "told you so" (sort of like here) 3 - while I don't condone this, it is not hard to imagine a shop - without a clear explanation but seemingly resolved - resorting to telling a customer something that isn't exactly accurate just to give some peace of mind. Maybe they suck, who knows?, but if I was going to blindly rely on someone it'd probably be a mechanic who sees probably a dozen+ different bikes a day vs. some random ppl on the interwebz. Obviously quality of ppl varies a lot.

    Ok, if you managed through the above rant - some comments regarding the fork and troubleshooting. First, the routine advice that people gave is good. Re-check your install and assembly. The very first thing to do. Look for areas that could cause issue. If persists, give to someone else for an objective take. If persists, begin to look at compound factors and re-check some assumptions. What assumptions? Well, things that you would ordinarily take for granted. I'll break out just two: that the new equipment is in spec & this application is similar to others you know well. I personally feel that the Mastodon is in spec - the ID/OD conform to normal expectations so unless the steerers were not fully pressed - the fork mfging doesn't seem to be the cause. So - what else? Could there be a compound cause? I think perhaps:

    So, one of the things that you hear people mention is that the fork lowers feel a bit loose with one. If you bounce your fork or loft it - it will not feel like your enduro fork - more of a sensation of play/movement in the lowers. There's conservatively an extra kilo of weight in the front wheel after all and frankly the 34mm chassis isn't exactly designed with a proportional amount of extra material than said enduro fork; I can't speak to what the bushing overlap and tolerance is in this fork yet. I can say this is more pronounced than anything modern that I felt in recent time - plus a whole lot of undamped tire air adding to the rate of return on the up. Anyway - not super hard to imagine a user feeling this, then assuming HS is loose and cranking some - maybe too much. Add in a bit of a crappy spec star nut (set) or maybe some packing oil on the steerer where the HS actually does get loose too and things get murky and hard to diagnose. That's my stance at this point - subject to change w/ more info - if you feel HS loose - check assembly, clean the shit out of your steerer/stem, pay extra attention to stem clamping, resist the urge to tighten top cap bolt unless you know definitively the HS has gone loose - it may just be how all that extra weight of the tire feels vibrating around in this chassis.

    Sorry it's a long take. I like mysteries, patterns and troubleshooting; some apparently don't and I can understand the resistance to over examination and edge case stuff given today's political climate and over reliance to convenient conspiracy type theories; hope that wasn't the tone here.

  16. #1116
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carl Mega View Post
    By all means, that's what we should be aspiring to... if people share some experiences and seek insight they should be met with ridicule and exclusion. Great take - inspires contribution and dialog.
    Thanks Carl Mega, It seems NB needs/gets his tone checked more and more these days. Maybe he just needs to get out and ride more instead of threadstalking, ha. I agree that it can be a bummer for others on any of the number of threads he "contributes" to.
    I often appreciate the technical and well-funded advice he offers as I can't afford as many toys and iterations of wheels, frames, forks, cranks, etc. But, sometimes it can come across more bitter than beneficial. Folks that only have a few coins and are trying to get the most out of their equipment without moving on to the next greatest thing get a lot of service out of these threads for learning, sharing, and tinkering. A reminder to all us for sure to consider how helpful or not we are willing to be with our free advice and observations. Roll on!
    Last edited by rvercoe; 02-06-2018 at 02:48 PM.

  17. #1117
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    Not so much bitter as feeling the pain of those who are confused by misinformation.

    It seems like people jump the gun more and more these days, quickly blaming the product without thinking things through, then they quickly post their thoughts and that post lives on the internet forever.

    If our livlihood depended on what we post, would we be be so flippant with our posts?

    I actually considered contacting the moderator and asking them to close this thread because it has become a river of misinformation. If you'll notice the abscence of pros on this thread, that should tip you off as to what they think.

    Personally, I waited with bated breath for the Mastodon, and now that it's here I want the world to know what a great fork Manitou made for us.

    Please, if anyone has any concerns about the Mastodon, are struggling with set up, please go through a reliable LBS and have them help you.

    There is nothing wrong with the Mastodon fork, it is a well designed and reliable product. I have flogged three pair, my son flogs his Mastodon, and all I have is praise for the fork.

    I am happy to answer questions via PM.

    Troll out!

    PS: I'm not a nurse per se, I am a psychiatric provider, so I don't know a whole lot about catheters ... and I plan to keep it that way

    Quote Originally Posted by rvercoe View Post
    Thanks Carl Mega, It seems NB gets his tone checked more and more these days. I agree that it can be a bummer for others on any of the number of threads he trolls. I often appreciate the technical and well-funded advice he offers as I can't afford as many toys and iterations of wheels, frames, forks, cranks, etc. But, sometimes it can come across more bitter than beneficial. Folks that only have a few coins and are trying to get the most out of their equipment without moving on to the next greatest thing get a lot of service out of these threads. A reminder to all us for sure to consider how helpful or not we are willing to be with our free advice and observations. Roll on!

  18. #1118
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    I cant believe from this HS coming loose BS, it became personal towards to one member to another. perhaps to post noob questions/concerns in the beginer lounge instead of a fork specific discussion. the information posted last couple of pages is misleading to people who wants to buy a mastodon
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  19. #1119
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    I've has my Mas on all winter and ridden down to about -5f and to be honest I don't even know it's there, pretty much the biggest compliment I can award a fork. Thing just works!!

  20. #1120
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    I cant believe from this HS coming loose BS, it became personal towards to one member to another. perhaps to post noob questions/concerns in the beginer lounge instead of a fork specific discussion. the information posted last couple of pages is misleading to people who wants to buy a mastodon
    I'm no Pro, but I sure hope I can cut and install my new 120 Pro Std when I get back from vacation. New crown race will be in by time I return.

    These latest posts have bummed me out and made me second guess and debate return. My Canyon has been a blast rigid but I'm sure better with the fork. Onward and upward!
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  21. #1121
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    Exactly this is what me and people like nurse Ben wanna prevent. Mastodon is a great fork not only for fat by normal fork standard. Many people can vouche.

  22. #1122
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    I will add this as well. Like bdundee said about his Mastodon above, I barely even notice my Magnum + which is an awesome thing to be able to say. I'm sure with the same damper setup the Magnum + and Mastodon Pro feel very similar. You can easily tweak it to your exact personal feel preference. Best fork I've been in on years. My only complaint, One UP EDC cap setup is no dice.........which really isn't that much of an issue.
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  23. #1123
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    Anyone notice the weight difference when stepping up from bluto to the Mastodon? I have a fairly light Trek Farley carbon with 27.5+ carbon wheels and am a little concerned about the weight penalty of this fork.

  24. #1124
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    It's a great fork. I expected as much having ridden their other top forks. No primitive dampers on this fork; an actual tuneable damper that makes the front of my Bucksaw as good as the back.

  25. #1125
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    First ride is in the books and a success. Self installed this morning which was a first for me but uneventful.

    The fork itself is beefy as can be with no flex. Totally transformed my Canyon Dude CF from lightweight nimble machine to monster truck. Running 4" JJs at 9 psi I cruised over everything with ease. Bike probably gained 4.5 lbs over CF fork but I think it was worth it for fun factor.

    Oh, headset/starnut/stem not loose yet.
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  26. #1126
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeepRage View Post
    Totally transformed my Canyon Dude CF from lightweight nimble machine to monster truck. Running 4" JJs at 9 psi I cruised over everything with ease. Bike probably gained 4.5 lbs over CF fork..
    JeepRage - I've also (just, weeks old) got a Canyon Dude CF and am just about to pull the trigger on a Mastodon 120mm Pro Std, so was feeling quite stoked to see the exact same setup. Thanks for posting

    I noted in a post above you'd said something about a new crown race. Can I ask if you used the stock crown race or needed something different to fit the Mastodon? I assume clearance on the downtube was just fine and you haven't needed to do anything funky.

    Thanks in advance.

  27. #1127
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    I bought a new Cane Creek 40 race off Amazon for $10 shipped so that I can swap the stock fork on quickly in the future. Plenty of clearance on the downturn. My bike doesn't feel like the featherweight it first did after tubeless with fork, bottle, and bag, but I love it. Only ridden my Santa Cruz once since getting the Dude.

    These are great bikes. Haven't found a need for 4.8s yet but want them. Where are you located?

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  28. #1128
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeepRage View Post
    I bought a new Cane Creek 40 race off Amazon for $10 shipped so that I can swap the stock fork on quickly in the future. Plenty of clearance on the downturn. My bike doesn't feel like the featherweight it first did after tubeless with fork, bottle, and bag, but I love it. Only ridden my Santa Cruz once since getting the Dude.

    These are great bikes. Haven't found a need for 4.8s yet but want them. Where are you located?

    Sent from my KFAPWI using Tapatalk
    Awesome thanks! Yeah I have a feeling my Enduro rig will get less love now with the Dude (with forks). I ended up getting the model with 4.8 JJs so she's going to be interesting with a proper fork, clocked in at 12.4kg after going tubeless. Located in New Zealand.

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  29. #1129
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    Quote Originally Posted by RowanTheKiwi View Post
    Awesome thanks! Yeah I have a feeling my Enduro rig will get less love now with the Dude (with forks). I ended up getting the model with 4.8 JJs so she's going to be interesting with a proper fork, clocked in at 12.4kg after going tubeless. Located in New Zealand.

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    Looks great. I wish we could get colors here in the US, but I won't complain. 4.8s not an option here.
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  30. #1130
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    Woah, gotta say some of the stuff on this thread is a little concerning. One of the major benefits of forums like is that I get to see people having real discussions about the pros and cons of pieces of equipment, and I can weigh up that info when deciding to buy something.

    Now people are being scolded for talking about the issues they have, and told praise is fine but problems need to be kept to PM? Sounds a lot like censorship to me. Everyone has their different skill and experience levels, and discussions about relative beginners dealing with equipment problems that may or may not be down to that experience level can be very helpful to those in the same boat.

    I find a lot of posts by the "super-regulars" on this forum very informative, but some clash markedly with my own experience and rider-requirements: My Bluto does everything I need from a fork on my fatbike (stops my hands going numb and wrists aching), and I find my 27.5 fattie wheels and tires slow and cumbersome - yet you'd think from the countless numbers of posts saying Blutos and 26" wheels should go the way of the dodo that there is no other point of view.

    Lets keep free and open discussion on the forum, and a bit less of people telling others what to talk about - save that kind of thing for manufacturer's facebook pages. Keep an eye on the bigger picture rather than panicking that your pet bit of kit of the moment is getting some criticism.

  31. #1131
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    I'll be selling my take off mastodon off my trek farley, lemme know if you want a new never used one.

  32. #1132
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    i had my fun with mastodon. and i went lefty
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  33. #1133
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonboy99 View Post
    Woah, gotta say some of the stuff on this thread is a little concerning. One of the major benefits of forums like is that I get to see people having real discussions about the pros and cons of pieces of equipment, and I can weigh up that info when deciding to buy something.

    Now people are being scolded for talking about the issues they have, and told praise is fine but problems need to be kept to PM? Sounds a lot like censorship to me. Everyone has their different skill and experience levels, and discussions about relative beginners dealing with equipment problems that may or may not be down to that experience level can be very helpful to those in the same boat.

    I find a lot of posts by the "super-regulars" on this forum very informative, but some clash markedly with my own experience and rider-requirements: My Bluto does everything I need from a fork on my fatbike (stops my hands going numb and wrists aching), and I find my 27.5 fattie wheels and tires slow and cumbersome - yet you'd think from the countless numbers of posts saying Blutos and 26" wheels should go the way of the dodo that there is no other point of view.

    Lets keep free and open discussion on the forum, and a bit less of people telling others what to talk about - save that kind of thing for manufacturer's facebook pages. Keep an eye on the bigger picture rather than panicking that your pet bit of kit of the moment is getting some criticism.
    I agree, if a guy has a question or concern they should feel free to ask. Getting a snarky response helps no one.

  34. #1134
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    OK everyone, sorry for being gone for a while, work is a crazy thing sometimes!

    I'll sum this up as fast as I can.

    The steerer on these forks is sometimes loose in the crown and can move during the first few rides which makes the headset loose. This is a fact that I have proved with my second fork by taking before and after measurements of the steerers position. This one did exactly the same thing as my first, but much faster. I also called Hayes/Manitou about this and they confirmed that it does happen, that they consider it normal, and why it happens.

    It is not the star nut or stem moving at the top. I've also confirmed this with before and after measurements.

    They said, tighten it up until it stops moving and keep riding, you are all good. Be sure to check you have enough spacers or room at the top of the stem after it moves.

    It happens because they press the steerer into the crown to a set pressure, not until it bottom out in the crown. This is done to avoid pressing in too far and causing other issue. That is straight from Hayes/Manitou.

    Now, I've never had any other fork do this and I'm not 100% sold that it should happen. But I'm going to trust them here and see what happens. As it turns out my first fork only came a smidge loose after my last posting, which I tightened up and have not seen it move since. And, I beleive one other poster reported that his stopped moving as well. So, I'll go with Manitou's suggestion and snug it up and keep riding.

    Have a great ride boys...

    New, pre-ride.
    Manitou Mastodon?-p1040570-x2.jpg


    Same fork a short ride later.
    Manitou Mastodon?-20180222_072849-xl.jpg
    Last edited by Troy Carter; 02-22-2018 at 09:49 AM.

  35. #1135
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    Thanks for the follow up. My only observation or complaint so far is a slight clunk when topped out. I only noticed this d*cking around in garage and road but it seems to have stopped when I adjusted my 120 Pro slightly lower with the air pump attached. Probably around 110-112mm travel.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JeepRage View Post
    Thanks for the follow up. My only observation or complaint so far is a slight clunk when topped out. I only noticed this d*cking around in garage and road but it seems to have stopped when I adjusted my 120 Pro slightly lower with the air pump attached. Probably around 110-112mm travel.
    If you notice a top out noise when riding check the oil level. Our LBS had a few of these forks that needed oil level adjustment because the factory oil level was a bit too low. Apparently the oil volume required is very precise. They adjusted the oil level in my fork and the noise went away immediately.

  37. #1137
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    Quote Originally Posted by Troy Carter View Post
    It happens because they press the steerer into the crown to a set pressure, not until it bottom out in the crown. This is done to avoid pressing in too far and causing other issue. That is straight from Hayes/Manitou.
    Heh. Holding pattern on comment except to say: when you feel like you've done everything right, and it keeps loosening - it's pretty understandable that someone would crank down on the starnut bolt (in desperation, etc) and see it move/pullout some. As I said, symptom not cause - and super interesting.

    Godspeed internet arguers.

    Quote Originally Posted by Carl Mega View Post
    I'll break out just two: that the new equipment is in spec & this application is similar to others you know well. I personally feel that the Mastodon is in spec - the ID/OD conform to normal expectations so unless the steerers were not fully pressed - the fork mfging doesn't seem to be the cause.

  38. #1138
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    Quote Originally Posted by CanmoreBruce View Post
    If you notice a top out noise when riding check the oil level. Our LBS had a few of these forks that needed oil level adjustment because the factory oil level was a bit too low. Apparently the oil volume required is very precise. They adjusted the oil level in my fork and the noise went away immediately.
    That is great info, thanks. I'll have to look into that. What oil is everyone using on this fork?
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  39. #1139
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeepRage View Post
    That is great info, thanks. I'll have to look into that. What oil is everyone using on this fork?
    Stock is a clear Maxima fully synthetic in the damper. Pretty sure it's this stuff: Synthetic Racing Shock Fluid - MaximaUSA

    If you're topping up you should probably stick to the same.

    If you're doing an oil change I run Motorex 2.5wt in most which does slightly better in the cold than the above. I've also got other options for more extreme uses.
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    Hmm, if the steerer can move in the crown like that, how are the top and bottom bearings supposed to remain square relative to each other?

  41. #1141
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonboy99 View Post
    Hmm, if the steerer can move in the crown like that, how are the top and bottom bearings supposed to remain square relative to each other?
    You need to reset the headset/stem to take up the slop. It's a temporary thing on some of them not something you should always have. They told me it could take a couple times before it stops moving.

  42. #1142
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    Quote Originally Posted by Troy Carter View Post
    You need to reset the headset/stem to take up the slop. It's a temporary thing on some of them not something you should always have. They told me it could take a couple times before it stops moving.
    Just got mine mounted this evening, we'll see from the looks of yours, mine is bound to move,
    I'll take some measurements in the morning.

    Manitou Mastodon?-img_5942a.jpg

    Manitou Mastodon?-img_5944a.jpg

  43. #1143
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmbrown View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Ha. This is great. Please post that up. There's a fairly significant difference between where your fork steerer extrudes vs. where mine and others have evidently settled. Easily 2mm.

  44. #1144
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    Mine new from box looks just like TMBrowns. Once I finish the build and get a few rides in I'll chime back in if different.

  45. #1145
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carl Mega View Post
    Ha. This is great. Please post that up. There's a fairly significant difference between where your fork steerer extrudes vs. where mine and others have evidently settled. Easily 2mm.
    It might be a week or so, were in this crazy freeze thaw cycle, thatís mostly thawÖ trails are a mess now, looks like blacktop this weekend.

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    Manitou Mastodon?-c12fadea-6561-4b6c-ad14-7e8df18261b9.jpgManitou Mastodon?-afb13c98-eeca-408c-bdce-78905c1ea9cf.jpg

  47. #1147
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    The question is, have your always been like that (slightly recessed in). Mine looks like the pictures from a few posts up, slightly out.

    That would explain the folks having issues, and depending just how much room was originally under the top cap, might be enough that all of a sudden there wasn't enough room under to take up the "new slack" after the steer tube pulled in and seated to it's final resting place.

    I finally got my wheel built up, so it won't be long until i ride mine.

  48. #1148
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shark View Post
    The question is, have your always been like that (slightly recessed in). Mine looks like the pictures from a few posts up, slightly out.
    Exactly. That's why this would be difficult to troubleshoot/pinpoint after the fact as most people have a sample of exactly one; once its settled in - nothing to compare (and no one is routinely checking steerer press depth on the underside of crown as matter of course during install - madness). The more recent guys with new forks who can measure before riding and check after should finally settle this topic. I'm already convinced from Troy's before/after pics and from my memory of what my fork looked like before and when I finally checked mine later on; the confirmation from Hayes/Manitou is icing on the cake.

    Edit: meaning, those who had this issue may have just tightened their HS once - if it fully settled, you'd have no reason to care and moved on. Some others who settled more slowly or moved deeper into crown over time- it may be several confusing tightening rounds. I feel like mine was in the latter category. And other forks may never needed to settled at all - hence the comments from people who jumped to conclusions claiming 'all these forks are just fine'. Evidently not.
    Last edited by Carl Mega; 02-23-2018 at 12:52 PM.

  49. #1149
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    Guess what guys, one short ride of 6.5 miles and I have a loose headset, looks like it moved .015in or .38mm.

  50. #1150
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmbrown View Post
    Guess what guys, one short ride of 6.5 miles and I have a loose headset, looks like it moved .015in or .38mm.
    Ha. But you are armed with super awesome knowledge of what it is so just keep taking up the slack until it stops. Might take a while which is annoying but hopefully tolerable. Between your pic (extruding about 1mm) and where mine landed (recessed about 2mm) that's a heck of a gap IMHO so maybe it'll take some time - no idea if about the 1.5mm/2mm mark is final spot everyone is going to find but NB, TC and mine seem to be around the same spot in the pics.

    It's a long story not worth telling how I know but mine was semi-extruded when I got it - like yours. I wish I had come to Troy's very helpful and keen insight earlier so I could have caught it in the act but it's ok - now I know.

    Cheers...

  51. #1151
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    Well, since I never suffered from a loose headset, I both forks have always been like that.

    You know what I think: Group Think and/Group Psychosis

    Quote Originally Posted by Shark View Post
    The question is, have your always been like that (slightly recessed in). Mine looks like the pictures from a few posts up, slightly out.

    That would explain the folks having issues, and depending just how much room was originally under the top cap, might be enough that all of a sudden there wasn't enough room under to take up the "new slack" after the steer tube pulled in and seated to it's final resting place.

    I finally got my wheel built up, so it won't be long until i ride mine.

  52. #1152
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    Had three of these forks, where 2 of them had obviously loose tubes. Never experienced this on any fork before, and I remember trying 2 several bearing sets, tightening, dismantle and putting together again and again. It really made me to think about my own bike mechanic skills.

    Suppose no one suspected loose tubes or any issue with the forks at that time, since it was likely proven to be a really good product without any flaws. So for a few of us, this issue was not considered serious at all. I see it have been written about loose head set bearings for the first time some months ago though.
    It is good that someone does seek deeper to sorted out the issues, and when it get confirmed by Hayes, we have the explanation.

    Anyway my fourth fork is on its way now so I will check before and after tighten the headset to see any movement.

  53. #1153
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    Mine is like this, about 0.5mm out, after 3 months and something like 500km.

    Should be like this since the beginning since I never had anything loose.

    Manitou Mastodon?-p-f.ch_180225_1103_0008_s95.jpg

  54. #1154
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    Yeah we know what's happening, and apparently Manitou does alsoÖ What I donít understand is why Manitou doesnít pull these new forks from the distributor, or have the distributor open the boxes and inspect, and return those that are suspect back to manufacturing for repair. Why should the consumer have to deal with this, I have a carbon frame, and this can't be good for it.

    By the way, my short ride on tight single track was very eye-opening, and I'm sure I had a big grin the whole time, this fork has really transformed my Farley, I was totally beat from cutting new trail for 2-1/2 hours earlier it the day, so I had to cut my ride short which was probably a good thingÖ

  55. #1155
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    Oh my, the conspiracy theorists have arrived. What shall we do?

    Having had an actual, very rare, verified steering tube become loose in a crown (Wren), I can honestly say am not seeing this loosening issue.

    If a steering tube moved vertically in the crown, it would also twist ... and there have been zero issues with twisting. Even one example of twist would be eye opening.

    Maybe Douglas could chime in on the process for inserting a steerer tube into a crown?

    But please do go on with the conspiracy, itís very entertaining.

  56. #1156
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Oh my, the conspiracy theorists have arrived. What shall we do?

    Having had an actual, very rare, verified steering tube become loose in a crown (Wren), I can honestly say am not seeing this loosening issue.

    If a steering tube moved vertically in the crown, it would also twist ... and there have been zero issues with twisting. Even one example of twist would be eye opening.

    Maybe Douglas could chime in on the process for inserting a steerer tube into a crown?

    But please do go on with the conspiracy, itís very entertaining.
    That's great to hear you haven't had any issues, but there are obviously a number of competent people (you know....those same individuals you called out as being "amateurs") that have had the issue. Maybe you missed Troy's post from above where he contacted Manitou and they confirmed it can/does happen?

    Quote Originally Posted by Troy Carter View Post
    ...The steerer on these forks is sometimes loose in the crown and can move during the first few rides which makes the headset loose. This is a fact that I have proved with my second fork by taking before and after measurements of the steerers position. This one did exactly the same thing as my first, but much faster. I also called Hayes/Manitou about this and they confirmed that it does happen, that they consider it normal, and why it happens.

  57. #1157
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    My Bluto works like a charm

    ymmv
    always mad and usually drunk......

  58. #1158
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    If a steering tube moved vertically in the crown, it would also twist ... and there have been zero issues with twisting.
    Ben, just look at the pictures, the tubes is seated different on different forks. It is not obvious that it should be felt loose both ways.

  59. #1159
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    Ben, just look at the pictures, the tubes is seated different on different forks. It is not obvious that it should be felt loose both ways.
    ^This. If you gave me 10 Wozo frames and 10 Cane Creek headsets, I'd press them in to 1/100ths tolerance every single time. The fact that you can visually see +/- 3mm of difference in these various steerers and crowns speaks for itself regarding the mfging tolerances here.

    Settled law at this point. I actually like my fork tho.

    Edit: Went to garage - mine is recessed a hair over 1mm. I also re-confirmed that mine was extended ~1mm when received. So ~2mm for me not 3mm but that's plenty.

    Minor life rant:

    When someone's experience/challenge is different that yours, resist the initial temptation to discredit, discount and debunk. Instead, try to listen, understand and help. It's good for your soul. Snow time! Later all....

  60. #1160
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    I'm surprised that the steerer tube is just an interference fit and not welded or joined permanently in some other manner. That seems like a serious crash waiting to happen.

  61. #1161
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    Quote Originally Posted by twodownzero View Post
    I'm surprised that the steerer tube is just an interference fit and not welded or joined permanently in some other manner. That seems like a serious crash waiting to happen.
    Just about every fork out there is like that.

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  62. #1162
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    Quote Originally Posted by twodownzero View Post
    I'm surprised that the steerer tube is just an interference fit and not welded or joined permanently in some other manner. That seems like a serious crash waiting to happen.
    it should be no issue if the tube was pushed enough into the crown. There should be so tight fit that it should never come loose, but when it sits not into its place it will be forced to go further in. Luckily this tube is settled when clamped at the frame, it need to be clamped so hard that it forces the tube into the crown.

  63. #1163
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Maybe Douglas could chime in on the process for inserting a steerer tube into a crown?
    Who's Douglas?

    All steerer tubes in suspension forks are press-fit (exceptions would be the welded RST and Scott Unicrowns from the mid 90's). They usually take several tons force to install and grip into the crown pretty well. I've installed and removed steerers myself.

    Clearly a headset in use can produce the several tons of uplift required to fully seat a steerer tube that wasn't fully seated at the factory.

    Note that being able to move a steerer up to it's fully seated position is the only direction a fork steerer tube can move. The torque to twist one in the crown is immense. Unless something is seriously wrong you'd never get a stem to grip tight enough.
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  64. #1164
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    Since everyone is sharing pics and I have a few min before I leave for skiing. This is how I absolutely know mine moved. First, after Troy's messages I was reminded that during my build I saw it extruded and thought it was odd enough that I stopped working actually checked several other Manitou forks to see if they were all extruding - they were not. Went about my business and finished setting the crown race.

    here you can see the indent the extruded steerer left on the 2x4 I set the bottom of the fork on when I set the race. Notice the deep ring it left. No doubt it was extruded. A fossil!

    Manitou Mastodon?-056.jpg

    Here you can see my fork steerer now. Recessed 1mm.

    Manitou Mastodon?-057.jpg

    Conspiracy on!

  65. #1165
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    ConspiracyÖ it must be those pesky Russians.

    I road 16.5 miles today at Highland, I stopped to tighten it up after 7 miles, its loose now after the ride, and it's pretty much flush now, I could take a picture but what's the point, it's definitely moving.

  66. #1166
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmbrown View Post
    ConspiracyÖ it must be those pesky Russians.

    I road 16.5 miles today at Highland, I stopped to tighten it up after 7 miles, its loose now after the ride, and it's pretty much flush now, I could take a picture but what's the point, it's definitely moving.
    If it is pulling up, it will stop when the flange hits and then stay tight.
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  67. #1167
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    If it is pulling up, it will stop when the flange hits and then stay tight.
    Yep, we are on the same page.

  68. #1168
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    Manitou Mastodon?

    Mine is about flush. I hammered it when setting the race so I don't know if it has been this way since shipping. Not loose yet though.
    2017 Santa Cruz Tallboy C 29er
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  69. #1169
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    Of my two which both moved the first moved three times over 5-6 rides before settling in and not moving anymore. That one was confusing for sure because it didn't just move and stop. After the last time I adjusted it I went out and smashed into some tall curbs for a half hour or so trying to get it to move but it just wouldn't. Seems to be set and tight now.

    The second one moved from about flush to set and finished within five minutes. I re-adjusted the stem/headset one time and it seems to be solid now. This one hasn't even seen a trail yet, just a bit of play time by the house.

    Point being they seem to take varied amounts of ride time or abuse to settle but once they are set they seem solid.

    https://youtu.be/ZxgprE8NExQ

    <iframe width="854" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ZxgprE8NExQ" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

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    OK, I have no idea how to embed a youtube video...

    Also note that my second fork has the light stanchions. So far these seem to be no different than the black version other than the color inside and out.

  71. #1171
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    Quote Originally Posted by Troy Carter View Post
    OK, I have no idea how to embed a youtube video....
    But you did...twice


    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

  72. #1172
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    Quote Originally Posted by Troy Carter View Post
    Fun vid. I like horsing around.

    I think we can call it at this point...done. Ha. Props to you on the insight, pics and see thru on calling Manitou - that tends to work

    Btw- KTMNealio had this pegged a month ago.

    Quote Originally Posted by KTMNealio View Post
    Take this for what it's worth.
    My headset kept getting loose on my first Mastodon upper. I noticed (but didn't measure to verify) that the steer tube looked like it was more inset (from the bottom). I ended up getting a new upper from Manitou and haven't had any problems since.
    PS - Thank you community. You solved the mystery and fixed my brain damage! The group can overcome.

  73. #1173
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carl Mega View Post
    Fun vid. I like horsing around.

    I think we can call it at this point...done. Ha. Props to you on the insight, pics and see thru on calling Manitou - that tends to work

    Btw- KTMNealio had this pegged a month ago.
    I made keen notice of that post and it's one of the reasons I called them about it. Honestly think some others would have figured it out eventually as well but I just happened to have a new and used fork sitting in front of me which made things easier to see.

    Agreed, we've settled this issue but I wanted to share as much as possible so that potential buyers don't think this is a reason not to get the fork. So far, performance wise, this thing is awesome. And, the minor settling issue doesn't bother me as long as we know it's not a major issue.

  74. #1174
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    Quote Originally Posted by Troy Carter View Post
    I made keen notice of that post and it's one of the reasons I called them about it. Honestly think some others would have figured it out eventually as well but I just happened to have a new and used fork sitting in front of me which made things easier to see.

    Agreed, we've settled this issue but I wanted to share as much as possible so that potential buyers don't think this is a reason not to get the fork. So far, performance wise, this thing is awesome. And, the minor settling issue doesn't bother me as long as we know it's not a major issue.
    And Manitou will be making sure all unsold forks are sorted from here on in. It's just dealing with the ones already out there.
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  75. #1175
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    And Manitou will be making sure all unsold forks are sorted from here on in. It's just dealing with the ones already out there.

  76. #1176
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    Is anyone running a thicker crown race or some other kind of spacer for more clearance?

  77. #1177
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    Quote Originally Posted by twodownzero View Post
    Is anyone running a thicker crown race or some other kind of spacer for more clearance?
    Yep, I had to for my med frame Farley; look at the pictures on post #1133. Cane Creek 3mm lower race custom for Salsa, I machined the taper off the top, and basically itís just a washer/spacer.
    Love the fork by the way, I can just plow through rock gardens now, and let it loose on fast downhillís, pulled the studded Gnarwhalís off and put the Barbís back on, the bike just flyís now.

  78. #1178
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    Quote Originally Posted by twodownzero View Post
    Is anyone running a thicker crown race or some other kind of spacer for more clearance?
    Yes, the Salsa Cane Creek 3mm crown race on a Pivot Les Fat. It peerfect! I bought two and do not need the second. PM if interested.

  79. #1179
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    My headset seemed to sort itself out as well, after putting a 2mm spacer in the stack.There is quite alot of stiction that has got worse ( about 6 rides worth).Does the fork have a " breaking in period" or is it a potential problem.Ive tried letting all the air our, applying slick honey to the stanchions, really aired but no improvement.

  80. #1180
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    Interesting. I wonder if farley have started doing this (thicker crownn race) on their farley 7? Pics on the website show a mix of the frame with a plastic protector on the downtube, and other pics with no such protector. Wonder if they changed recently? I can't think of any major downside to a thicker crown race - the increase in leverage can't be that much.
    https://www.trekbikes.com/ca/en_CA/b...?colorCode=red

  81. #1181
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    Thanks for the information about the oil level.I was wondering if perhaps my fork wasnt set up right in the factory,as Im getting the clunk s well and terrible stiction.I spoke to manitou and they said there was something wrong with my fork based on my description,and to send it back to the shop i bought it from

  82. #1182
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    Ordered a cassette tool to hack up and open the fork and check my oil level. Hopefully next week. I'll order oil after I confirm the level if low.
    2017 Santa Cruz Tallboy C 29er
    2018 Canyon Dude fatty with Mastodon
    2018 Nashbar Sora Alloy gravel bike

  83. #1183
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    Watched your Vid-good riding mate! I have the same silver stanchioned mastodon,did your come with a remote lockout?Mine is the ext comp120.

  84. #1184
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    The cassette tool is not gonna help you check oil levels. You need the socket to pull the stanchions, oil is in the lowers.

    The cassette too will allow you to open the uppers. Iíd stay out if the damper, itís not likely causing the problem you describe.

    Quote Originally Posted by JeepRage View Post
    Ordered a cassette tool to hack up and open the fork and check my oil level. Hopefully next week. I'll order oil after I confirm the level if low.

  85. #1185
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    The cassette tool is not gonna help you check oil levels. You need the socket to pull the stanchions, oil is in the lowers.

    The cassette too will allow you to open the uppers. Iíd stay out if the damper, itís not likely causing the problem you describe.
    Ummm....the damper oil...which is what causes knocking....is under the damper...which you have to remove( from the top)
    The bath oil....is in the lowers

  86. #1186
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikemad1 View Post
    Watched your Vid-good riding mate! I have the same silver stanchioned mastodon,did your come with a remote lockout?Mine is the ext comp120.
    Thanks,

    No lockout with mine. I don't race or ride places where the lockout is really a requirement so I prefer not to have them. I will occasionally reach down to adjust the knob but that's rare.

  87. #1187
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    Damper oil being low and causing knocking? Hmm, I'm not sure that makes sense, but what do I know. What I do know from opening and replacing oil in the Mastodon damper is that the "doer" better know what they're doing; ie previously having done that work on other forks.

    Here in Northern Nevada we are enjoying the sunny weather, it's cooled down out here, some flurries today, but still having a great winter, have been able to ride any day I want on dirt, which is truly amazing after being snowbound for the past four winters.

    Just got some 29+ built up Mike Curiak at Lacemine29, Duroc 40 on Big Rides. Gonna try the Chupas this summer to see if they can take the abuse and still ride fast, otherwise it's back to Minions. The Chupas, being slightly shorter than the Minions, will fit perfect in an unmodified STD; the Minions fit, but it was tight.

    Enjoy the ride!

    BTW, thanks for chiming in "Dougal"

    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    Ummm....the damper oil...which is what causes knocking....is under the damper...which you have to remove( from the top)
    The bath oil....is in the lowers

  88. #1188
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    ....Just got some 29+ built up Mike Curiak at Lacemine29, Duroc 40 on Big Rides. Gonna try the Chupas this summer to see if they can take the abuse and still ride fast, otherwise it's back to Minions. The Chupas, being slightly shorter than the Minions, will fit perfect in an unmodified STD; the Minions fit, but it was tight.
    I rode Chupas all last yr on my 29+ setup (i35s+Big rides) for my Wozo and I was amazed at how much those tires kill it. Ripper traction and the surprising thing for me, seeing they are a sub 900g tire at that size, was the durability. Last season, I sliced 3-4 rear EXO casing tires on my Hightower (Aggressors) and Ripley (Ikon 2.35s) here on Front Range which can be brutal on tires. I didn't have a single issue with the Chupas and I ride aggressively and smash into a lot of crap. I am going to try out the new XR4 3.0 on the front with Chupa on rear for this upcoming season though. Not sure I need the Xr4 but when it starts to get real dry and blown out around here it's nice to have the bigger lugs to dig & bite

    Regarding the STD I had plenty of hard hits with the Chupas last yr using all the travel (mine set at 130) and I never had an issue (other than minor buzz from slight tire-2-fender contact)

  89. #1189
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    The cassette tool is not gonna help you check oil levels. You need the socket to pull the stanchions, oil is in the lowers.

    The cassette too will allow you to open the uppers. Iíd stay out if the damper, itís not likely causing the problem you describe.
    What I read and saw in a video somewhere, was measuring the oil levels as XX mm from the top. To do that, I though I saw it by removing the adjustment knobs at the top, using the cassette tool. Perhaps I'm mistaken, but that was where I was going to start as a first step in the process.
    2017 Santa Cruz Tallboy C 29er
    2018 Canyon Dude fatty with Mastodon
    2018 Nashbar Sora Alloy gravel bike

  90. #1190
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeepRage View Post
    What I read and saw in a video somewhere, was measuring the oil levels as XX mm from the top. To do that, I though I saw it by removing the adjustment knobs at the top, using the cassette tool. Perhaps I'm mistaken, but that was where I was going to start as a first step in the process.
    That is how you check , change or add oil.
    The Damper oil is in the damper....crazy, huh?
    There are videos and hardcopy on the Manitou site.
    There is a little oil in the lowers that is for lubrication only....has nothing to do with damping...although it is important

  91. #1191
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    Yes, but use the right oil and don't introduce any pollutants.

    Sorry to be so critical, but the level of technical expertise exhibited by posters on this thread has been underwhelming. So to assure a person I don't know, about their ability to work on a fork... well, I don't have that confidence in a stranger.

    If you mess up, take the fork to your LBS and apologize profusely, beer general helps smooth the way

    Quote Originally Posted by JeepRage View Post
    What I read and saw in a video somewhere, was measuring the oil levels as XX mm from the top. To do that, I though I saw it by removing the adjustment knobs at the top, using the cassette tool. Perhaps I'm mistaken, but that was where I was going to start as a first step in the process.

  92. #1192
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Yes, but use the right oil and don't introduce any pollutants.

    Sorry to be so critical, but the level of technical expertise exhibited by posters on this thread has been underwhelming. So to assure a person I don't know, about their ability to work on a fork... well, I don't have that confidence in a stranger.

    If you mess up, take the fork to your LBS and apologize profusely, beer general helps smooth the way
    Considering you don't know where the damping oil is in the fork....you might not want to talk about people's technical abilities.

  93. #1193
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    Umm, what? I'm pretty sure I know where the damper oil is since I replaced it.

    But thanks for your valuable insights.

    What a gem this place has become.

    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    Considering you don't know where the damping oil is in the fork....you might not want to talk about people's technical abilities.

  94. #1194
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Yes, but use the right oil and don't introduce any pollutants.

    Sorry to be so critical, but the level of technical expertise exhibited by posters on this thread has been underwhelming. So to assure a person I don't know, about their ability to work on a fork... well, I don't have that confidence in a stranger.

    If you mess up, take the fork to your LBS and apologize profusely, beer general helps smooth the way
    Appreciate the concern over my abilities. I self installed the fork without issue and have been servicing my own forks since my Judy XC back in the 90s. I posted about a slight top out clunk for awareness and ideas to resolve.

    I will deal with the oil after I identify if it is low as-is. I have a handful of rides and don't want to tear down for no reason at all.
    2017 Santa Cruz Tallboy C 29er
    2018 Canyon Dude fatty with Mastodon
    2018 Nashbar Sora Alloy gravel bike

  95. #1195
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    The cassette tool is not gonna help you check oil levels. You need the socket to pull the stanchions, oil is in the lowers.
    -Nurse Ben
    2017 Santa Cruz Tallboy C 29er
    2018 Canyon Dude fatty with Mastodon
    2018 Nashbar Sora Alloy gravel bike

  96. #1196
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    Glad to hear it.

    I'll be surprised if the oil is low, but anything is possible.

    You can make your own Manitou cassette tool by using a cutting tool to remove a portion of the tool, I did this with an old cassette tool using a dremel.

    I used a lighter weight oil when I replaced the oil in my damper, not a bad idea if you ride where it's cold.

    Oddly, I had some clunky performance in one of my Mastodon, but after I broke it down the clunking stopped; all I did was change the travel limit spacers, go figure.

    Clunking could be possible if the lubrication oil in the lowers is low, which is why I was suggesting what I did, something to think about if the damper oil is normal.

    Four Mastodons to date, one sold, three still going strong, no issues, no complaints. I guess it's just good luck

    Quote Originally Posted by JeepRage View Post
    Appreciate the concern over my abilities. I self installed the fork without issue and have been servicing my own forks since my Judy XC back in the 90s. I posted about a slight top out clunk for awareness and ideas to resolve.

    I will deal with the oil after I identify if it is low as-is. I have a handful of rides and don't want to tear down for no reason at all.

  97. #1197
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    For those of you with questions about oil level and service, travel changes, all the information is on Manitou's website, just try and be helpful guys, and not condescendingÖ

    https://www.manitoumtb.com/wp-conten...vice-Guide.pdf

    https://www.manitoumtb.com/wp-conten...ange-Guide.pdf

  98. #1198
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    Yeah, it would be be nice if there wasnít so much nastiness and personal attacks, but Iíve given up on people being nice, so I block folks when I get tired of their shite.

    Iíll admit this is a weird thread, Iíve not seen this sort of confusion and poor communication in any other suspension threads; even the Wren thread didnít go this far south.

    I wonder if Manitou provided too much opportunity for mucking about in the fork, but made it just hard enough to do the work that many home mechanics are left scratching their heads.

    I like having the options to change things up without having to buy additional parts (air shafts), but there is a learning curve.

    Quote Originally Posted by tmbrown View Post
    For those of you with questions about oil level and service, travel changes, all the information is on Manitou's website, just try and be helpful guys, and not condescendingÖ

    https://www.manitoumtb.com/wp-conten...vice-Guide.pdf

    https://www.manitoumtb.com/wp-conten...ange-Guide.pdf

  99. #1199
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    Mine came with a remote lockout lever that fits on the bars.As I'm as capable bike mechanic as Stevie wonder is a race car driver I had the shop install it.worked for half an hour.They couldn't sort it, so I took it off.I would prefer the manual lock out but I will see.The stiction issues and " clunkyness is an issue though so I'm gonna send it back to the distributor

  100. #1200
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    Maybe we need a Mastodon friends group to support people when they get their first fork?

    So Iíll start:

    Iím in the Tahoe area, if anyone is struggling with their Mastodon or has concerns before getting a Mastodon, send me a PM and Iíll give you a hand. I also have a couple bikes set up with Mastodon forks that you can check out.

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