Manitou Mastodon?

[david.p]

Sorry, I am a newby at doing my own suspension fork work. Sooo, Is that a Yes or a No that I need to mess with the damper side when bumping the STD Comp from 120mm up to 140mm? Thanks Sir.

Step by step instructions for changing travel on the Comp in this post

[bme107]

It's really all about me, cuz when he's riding then I have a biking buddy.

Yep. My kids ride tuesday nights whether they like it or not.

Prying them away from electronics after school can be hell but 10 min into the ride they are all-in. Of course ice cream or donuts and coco afterwards don't hurt.

[Nurse Ben]

Totally, I bribed my kids with coca cola, reduced chores, their choice of dinner, whatever it took. I started riding muni with my son when he was a pre-teen, we rode weekly through high school, it was a once in a lifetime experience.

Yep. My kids ride tuesday nights whether they like it or not.

Prying them away from electronics after school can be hell but 10 min into the ride they are all-in. Of course ice cream or donuts and coco afterwards don't hurt.

[rvercoe]

Step by step instructions for changing travel on the Comp in this post

Yes, That post is super helpful as the best step by step description of the process with all the necessary sources linked. Thanks for posting that up.

My only question came from your edit at the end of that post= "Edit: Went through this and changing travel was straightforward. Removed steps indicating it should be possible to put bumpers taken from air shaft onto bottom of rebound shaft because the shafts have different diameters on the Comp."

There seemed to have been a bit of conflicting opinions as to whether it really IS or is NOT necessary to add some spacers on the damper side to support the additional travel on the air spring side once it is bumped up to 140mm. Cheers, Richard

[david.p]

Gotcha.

For just changing travel from 120mm to 140mm, no - nothing is needed on the rebound side. Essentially all that is done is removal of two spacers from the top of the air shaft.

Originally that post had included optional steps for increasing crown clearance by adding bottom out spacers, which are needed on both sides, in addition to increasing the travel. The assumption was that since I was removing two spacers from the top of the air side (this is the part that increases the travel from 120mm to 140mm), I could move the spacers to the bottom of each shaft to add aditional crown clearance (but this also reduces travel by 10mm so net travel would be 130mm).

It was this second part that didn't work out so I removed those steps from the procedure. The procedure is still complete for changing the travel.

[bdundee]

Glad that's over, rvercoe you've been officially told at least 3 times now you don't mess with the damper side for travel change . There has never been conflicting reports on the damper side as that is for limiting travel/crown clearance only and then you still don't need to remove the rebound damper for that adjustment.

[the mayor]

Glad that's over, rvercoe you've been officially told at least 3 times now you don't mess with the damper side for travel change . There has never been conflicting reports on the damper side as that is for limiting travel/crown clearance only and then you still don't need to remove the rebound damper for that adjustment.

So...you're saying I have to remove the steerer from the crown and remove the rebound damper to adjust the air pressure?
Got it!

[bdundee]

So...you're saying I have to remove the steerer from the crown and remove the rebound damper to adjust the air pressure?
Got it!

[rvercoe]

Cheers, y'all are an informative and supportive group. Much obliged, R-

[compengr]

Reading the discussion above, it seems that 1) the standard version has room for 4.8" tires and 2) if I wanted to increase tire clearance I would move travel adjust spacer(s). Did I get that right? Trying to decide if I should go with the 100mm extended or the 120mm standard version...

[david.p]

Yes, that's right. Additionally the 120mm can be extended to 140mm while the 100mm can be lowered to 80mm.

[compengr]

Yes, that's right. Additionally the 120mm can be extended to 140mm while the 100mm can be lowered to 80mm.

Got it. Thanks!

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[Shamis]

I've seen a lot of talk on this thread about the +3mm lower race for Medium Les Fat, but is anyone actually using it? I'm currently running the the OEM rigid for with +18mm lower cup and 26X4.8 JJ's. I want to install Mastodon 120 Pro STD and thinking the additional A to C would warrant going back to Zero stack lower cup.

What all do I need to run the +3mm race?

Thanks

[bpd131]

I've seen a lot of talk on this thread about the +3mm lower race for Medium Les Fat, but is anyone actually using it? I'm currently running the the OEM rigid for with +18mm lower cup and 26X4.8 JJ's. I want to install Mastodon 120 Pro STD and thinking the additional A to C would warrant going back to Zero stack lower cup.

What all do I need to run the +3mm race?

Thanks

You absolutely do NOT need the +3 for the Les Fat when using the +18 cup. I currently have mine set up with a zero stack and NOT using +3, it just barely clears with knobs facing a certain way. Adding the +3 would make clear no matter which way knobs face.

Using the +3 race would require using a Cane Creek lower bearing or ZS56 lower set.

[Shamis]

Thanks, I would not be using the 18mm if I run the 120 fork, so I would switch back to zero stack.

i read back a little and see that you are running the Cane Creek 110 ZS56 which has a 4mm stack so may not be equal to my set up if I use OEM zero stack, anyway.

[JacekB]

Thanks, I would not be using the 18mm if I run the 120 fork, so I would switch back to zero stack.

i read back a little and see that you are running the Cane Creek 110 ZS56 which has a 4mm stack so may not be equal to my set up if I use OEM zero stack, anyway.

I have Medium frame LesFat. You need the extra 3 mm. It will clear the knobs when they are in specific position but you would not ride like that. The Mastodon has long part of the fork tube that is wider for the race so you could add machined 3mm aluminium spacer and everything is super solid. Ideally the Cane Creek solution with replaced bottom cup/bearing and the 3+ race. I had it with 18mm cup first but with zero stack cup the bike is better.

I have another question with using 120 mm STD. Everyone is saying you can add spacer or two at the bottom and limit 120mm to 110mm or 100mm even Manitou do not approve that settings. But maybe they do not because the 120mm is using different rebound damper and if you add two spacers at the bottom you may bottom out more often? But then maybe we could add axtra volume reducer to the air chamber. I aske them in email but not answer and I guess they will say it wasn't tested or not designed that way.

[JacekB]

Can you explain why the second part of limiting the travel by 10mm did not work Please ?

Everyone here is saying that is should. You would think you can limit the travel as long there is space for the extra tokens at the bottom. I think that maybe the rebound damper might not work in designed range as the the fork will never go to the max but I am not sure is that will change the performance. I think you may bottom out more often if you do not add air volume reducing tokens in the air chamber to make it more progressive.

I think I just found the answer you gave before: "On Comp the top shaft and bottom have different diameters." What about PRO? I guess with PRO it will work.

[JacekB]

I plan on taking mine( 120 ext) apart again next week to play with travel.

I also ordered a 120 STD but recieve another EXT

Where did you buy yours. I ordered 120STD and did not pay attention when received buy after riding felt high so I measured AC and it is 551 and there is even a sticker EXT. Did you keep EXT or exchange for STD?

[bpd131]

Thanks, I would not be using the 18mm if I run the 120 fork, so I would switch back to zero stack.

i read back a little and see that you are running the Cane Creek 110 ZS56 which has a 4mm stack so may not be equal to my set up if I use OEM zero stack, anyway.

The race is a little thicker on the standard Cane Creek Race when compared to the OEM Les Fat. Stack height doesn't measure 4mm on my bike. but who am I to argue with Cane Creek. Regardless, to ensure there are no problems, you should use the 3mm extended race. With the 110 ZS56 and standard race, my knobs clear, but only in the detent positions. If the high speed, black, knob spins slightly (approx 45 degrees), and I turn the wheel 90 degrees (or so), there is contact with the downtube.

I rode my Mastodon 120mm STD today for the first time today on my Medium Les Fat with Cane Creek 110 ZS56, standard race with 29X3.0 on 50mm rims at 14 PSI. No tire rub with crown and no downtube clearance issues. But I must state, it is not the proper way to do things. It's risky, but I don't mind testing things outside the norm.

[JacekB]

The race is a little thicker on the standard Cane Creek Race when compared to the OEM Les Fat. Stack height doesn't measure 4mm on my bike. but who am I to argue with Cane Creek. Regardless, to ensure there are no problems, you should use the 3mm extended race. With the 110 ZS56 and standard race, my knobs clear, but only in the detent positions. If the high speed, black, knob spins slightly (approx 45 degrees), and I turn the wheel 90 degrees (or so), there is contact with the downtube.

I rode my Mastodon 120mm STD today for the first time today on my Medium Les Fat with Cane Creek 110 ZS56, standard race with 29X3.0 on 50mm rims at 14 PSI. No tire rub with crown and no downtube clearance issues. But I must state, it is not the proper way to do things. It's risky, but I don't mind testing things outside the norm.

Would you rather have EXT version?

[bpd131]

Would you rather have EXT version?

Absolutely not. I did not want the extra A-C. This is why I am trying to do everything possible without adding unnecessary A-C. I actually enjoy this type of tinkering and figuring these things out. A semi-custom approach to get what I'm after using off the shelf parts, because I don't have the ability and time for custom fabrication.

[JacekB]

Absolutely not. I did not want the extra A-C. This is why I am trying to do everything possible without adding unnecessary A-C. I actually enjoy this type of tinkering and figuring these things out. A semi-custom approach to get what I'm after using off the shelf parts, because I don't have the ability and time for custom fabrication.

Did you try to install the 10mm spacers on the bottom to reduce travel and increase that way clearance? This is what I wanted to do buy I just realized that they send me EXT 120. I could have bought that much cheaper at that time and I bought 120STD. I realized that it is was wrong after installed it.

[bpd131]

Would you rather have EXT version?

Also the EXT Version only addresses tire to crown clearance issues. It does nothing for the crown to downtube issues.

With a little patience, creatvity and effort, I can solve any and all of the potential clearance issues, with 8mm total added to the A-C. Where the EXT version adds 20mm and still has crown clearance issues that would still add another 3mm with the Salsa Race.

Now, I do realize that that the 20mm extra height on the EXT version can be reduced from 20mm to 10mm, therefore decreasing A-C by 10mm as well. Just another way to attack the problem.

[JacekB]

Also the EXT Version only addresses tire to crown clearance issues. It does nothing for the crown to downtube issues.

With a little patience, creatvity and effort, I can solve any and all of the potential clearance issues, with 8mm total added to the A-C. Where the EXT version adds 20mm and still has crown clearance issues that would still add another 3mm with the Salsa Race.

Now, I do realize that that the 20mm extra height on the EXT version can be reduced from 20mm to 10mm, therefore decreasing A-C by 10mm as well. Just another way to attack the problem.

By Adding Extra spacer at the top of the air shaft?

[bpd131]

Did you try to install the 10mm spacers on the bottom to reduce travel and increase that way clearance? This is what I wanted to do buy I just realized that they send me EXT 120. I could have bought that much cheaper at that time and I bought 120STD. I realized that it is was wrong after installed it.

I could do this, but right now my STD version clears my 29x3.0 Chupa with a few mm to spare. I rode it this way yesterday and it did not rub. Therefore, I will not put the full 10mm spacer in there. I ride this bike rigid with fat tires, which will be going on soon, so this fork won't be on long. I will try to find or make a 5mm spacer over the winter and install that for the spring.

[JacekB]

I could do this, but right now my STD version clears my 29x3.0 Chupa with a few mm to spare. I rode it this way yesterday and it did not rub. Therefore, I will not put the full 10mm spacer in there. I ride this bike rigid with fat tires, which will be going on soon, so this fork won't be on long. I will try to find or make a 5mm spacer over the winter and install that for the spring.

Do you keep 18 mm cup installed or changing while going rigid? I changed to ZS Andrzej 120 ext is not so bad but I would prefer STD as I ordered.

[bpd131]

By Adding Extra spacer at the top of the air shaft?

Yes, sort of, but that only adjusts the travel by itself. You would have to remove a spacer from the bottom as well. Removing one from the bottom and adding one to the top, you keep the same amount of travel, but decrease A-C by 10mm.

[bpd131]

Do you keep 18 mm cup installed or changing while going rigid? I changed to ZS Andrzej 120 ext is not so bad but I would prefer STD as I ordered.

No, I ride with the steeper HTA for the winter.

[JacekB]

Yes, sort of, but that only adjusts the travel by itself. You would have to remove a spacer from the bottom as well. Removing one from the bottom and adding one to the top, you keep the same amount of travel, but decrease A-C by 10mm.

Are you sure you will not hit any internal parts when removing bottom spacer?

[JacekB]

No, I ride with the steeper HTA for the winter.

You have always ZS? No problems with low BB and pedals strikes?

[bpd131]

Are you sure you will not hit any internal parts when removing bottom spacer?

I am sure of nothing, because I do not have the same fork as you. But by understanding how the system works, and knowing that all you are doing is adjusting where on the air shaft that the travel occurs, I don't think it would matter. Now if someone was to start removing numerous spacers from various spots, that will probably lead to a problem eventually.

[bpd131]

You have always ZS? No problems with low BB and pedals strikes?

Nah. If you look at the Pivot Les Fat Geometry Website page, the ONLY geo shown using the 18mm cup is the 26x3.8. All other geo references use the zs cup. Not saying I couldn't use it, but it's not worth it to me or my time pressing in and out different cups twice a year.

I ride NE with rocks and roots everywhere, so pedal strikes occur no almost matter what. Eventually you learn to navigate and turn your pedals appropriately.

When you lose your focus like I did once, a pedal strike that sent me over the bars on to my head, you will be reminded quickly. It provided great laughter for my riding partner though, so there's that upside. Just wish it was on video.

[Shamis]

My bike came with 18mm cup installed since they are spec'd with 26x3.8 tires. I almost immediately swapped for 26x4.8 JJ's and never removed the cup. Running rear as short as possible with minimal clearance. But I have to say, that I would have no interest in riding it with ZS as I would not want to steepen the HA. I think I'll be quite happy with ZS and 120mm STD for as it will gain a tad more slack overall, but with sag, it should be pretty close to my current HA.

[compengr]

Received my Mastodon Pro 120 std yesterday. I have to say I'm somewhat disappointed. Out of the box there is a fair amount of stiction; much more than I'm used to seeing. Comparing this to an almost new Pike...well, no comparison...

I'll take it for a spin in the next day or two and report back. It's not fully extending either, but that's usually an easy fix.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[the mayor]

Received my Mastodon Pro 120 std yesterday. I have to say I'm somewhat disappointed. Out of the box there is a fair amount of stiction; much more than I'm used to seeing. Comparing this to an almost new Pike...well, no comparison...

I'll take it for a spin in the next day or two and report back. It's not fully extending either, but that's usually an easy fix.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

There's stiction....because it's a tight new fork....like any fork.
And it's probably not extending because you set your air pressure wrong

[compengr]

There's stiction....because it's a tight new fork....like any fork.
And it's probably not extending because you set your air pressure wrong

I'll report back, but like I said, there is a lot of stiction. Much more than I'm used to seeing in a new fork.

As far as airing up the fork, I followed the little instruction sheet that came with fork. Not much to do wrong there.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[david.p]

As far as airing up the fork, I followed the little instruction sheet that came with fork. Not much to do wrong there.

You'll want to make sure the fork is fully extended before disconnecting the pump - this fork can change length with a pump connected. Some are using this quirk as a way to lower travel / ride height on the fly.

[the mayor]

As far as airing up the fork, I followed the little instruction sheet that came with fork. Not much to do wrong there.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Yet...you did.
You might want to read this thread to and you see how the air chambers work and what you did wrong

[compengr]

Yet...you did.
You might want to read this thread to and you see how the air chambers work and what you did wrong

Flipped the bike over. Adjusted the pressure. Pulled on the fork before disconnecting the pump. What did I miss?

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[Nurse Ben]

Try pulling and pushing the fork legs in and out, this will give you an idea of the available travel. A 120 STD will compress to zero and extend to 120. You need to hold the fork at the desired position as you disconnect the pump. No need to flip the bike upside down, I can do mine on the trail

You might want to measure the maximum extension. If it only goes to 100mm, you got the wrong fork. A 120 STD should extend to 120mm.

Stiction? No problems with any of mine, three so far, working on a fourth next week.

Great forks, far better than a Pike (I got one, had a few), maybe your Mastodon needs so break in?

Flipped the bike over. Adjusted the pressure. Pulled on the fork before disconnecting the pump. What did I miss?

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[PCT]

Just installed the new Mastodon Std 120 Pro on my Wozo in place of my Fox 34.

Haven't done any adjustments yet, but there is a pronounced top-out klunk whether the lockout is on or off. Has anyone else experienced this, and is there anything I can do to alleviate the problem?

Scanned the threads but did not find any suggestions. Thanks!

[Nurse Ben]

Whenever I bottom out, that's generally a sign that I have the pressure set too low.

Just installed the new Mastodon Std 120 Pro on my Wozo in place of my Fox 34.

Haven't done any adjustments yet, but there is a pronounced top-out klunk whether the lockout is on or off. Has anyone else experienced this, and is there anything I can do to alleviate the problem?

Scanned the threads but did not find any suggestions. Thanks!

[PCT]

Not bottom-out, plenty of pressure and not coming close to that. Top-out, as in when you compress the fork and let it rebound to the top, and it makes a Klunk sound.

[compengr]

Just installed the new Mastodon Std 120 Pro on my Wozo in place of my Fox 34.

Haven't done any adjustments yet, but there is a pronounced top-out klunk whether the lockout is on or off. Has anyone else experienced this, and is there anything I can do to alleviate the problem?

Scanned the threads but did not find any suggestions. Thanks!

Decided to tinker a bit tonight. After going for a quick spin I was able to finally extend the fork to full travel. Not sure what changed. Gave it another try and it extended without rebounding back. So that part seems to be working fine.

As far as top-out noises; even with rebound set to fastest I get nothing but a dull thud of the top out bumper doing its thing. Same exact fork.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[Carl Mega]

As far as top-out noises; even with rebound set to fastest I get nothing but a dull thud of the top out bumper doing its thing. Same exact fork.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Wouldn't you want it set on slowest to cushion the top out effect and soften the return?

[compengr]

Wouldn't you want it set on slowest to cushion the top out effect and soften the return?

The setting itself is a different topic (and a bit of a personal preference). The point I was trying to make was, even at the fastest return speed I didn't experience a clunk.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[Carl Mega]

The setting itself is a different topic (and a bit of a personal preference). The point I was trying to make was, even at the fastest return speed I didn't experience a clunk.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Gotcha. We're saying the same thing - I misread your comment. For other poster - PCT: see if slowest rebound changes anything. Still clunk?

Edit: Another thing to check - HS tightness. When I first installed mine, I had a bit of clunk that I was sort of writing off as being the fork. Happened during manuals and hefting the front end. My HS from all the normal checks was tight. However, I decided to give that HS just a bit more of a turn and it all went away. Didn't process on it very much but sort of thought that maybe the big, heavy front wheel/tire carried a lot of momentum (when returning) and made a just ever so slightly loose HS move enough to make a top out feeling.

[Blaster182]

Decided to tinker a bit tonight. After going for a quick spin I was able to finally extend the fork to full travel. Not sure what changed. Gave it another try and it extended without rebounding back. So that part seems to be working fine.

As far as top-out noises; even with rebound set to fastest I get nothing but a dull thud of the top out bumper doing its thing. Same exact fork.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Have you checked to see if the lower bearing race settled in? May just have to tighten up the stack. Happened to me. after 2 rides.

[compengr]

Have you checked to see if the lower bearing race settled in? May just have to tighten up the stack. Happened to me. after 2 rides.

I think you comment was meant for PCT. It could certainly be something other than the fork. I had a loose axle feel like a top-out issue once. Best to check all the obvious stuff first before diving into the fork.

[HDTVdevil]

Anyone tried installing the IRT upgrade in the Mastodon?

[Blaster182]

I think you comment was meant for PCT. It could certainly be something other than the fork. I had a loose axle feel like a top-out issue once. Best to check all the obvious stuff first before diving into the fork.

Sometimes we overlook the simple stuff.

[daver38]

Anyone tried installing the IRT upgrade in the Mastodon?

I've got one but not had time to install it yet.....watch this space!

[LargeMan]

Received my Mastodon Pro 120 std yesterday. I have to say I'm somewhat disappointed. Out of the box there is a fair amount of stiction; much more than I'm used to seeing. Comparing this to an almost new Pike...well, no comparison...

I'll take it for a spin in the next day or two and report back. It's not fully extending either, but that's usually an easy fix.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Mine had a lot of stiction as well, thought I made a mistake in buying. After 30 miles of use, the fork is amazing, just take some miles to break in. Just like the old Marz forks. IMO, this is how a fork should come, if there is no stiction to start then when it breaks in you will have slop or need more service intervals.

[Stu Pidassle]

My Mastodon PRO STD showed up yesterday. Because this thread is so long and confusing I am hoping to verify that I have the spacer set up correct.

I am looking to set it up with 140mm travel minus 10 to safely account for large tires. This will leave me with 130mm travel with minimal impact to current handling characteristics and balance travel with my rear suspension.

My belief is that I should have 1 top out spacer for 140mm travel and 2 bottom out spacers to increase the axle to crown length. Is that correct?

Thanks



Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[david.p]

I am looking to set it up with 140mm travel minus 10 to safely account for large tires. This will leave me with 130mm travel with minimal impact to current handling characteristics and balance travel with my rear suspension.

My belief is that I should have 1 top out spacer for 140mm travel and 2 bottom out spacers to increase the axle to crown length. Is that correct?

Yes, that spacer config will get you 140mm - 10mm = 130mm net travel and 10mm additional crown clearance.

The one clarification I would make has to do with this statement:

This will leave me with 130mm travel with minimal impact to current handling characteristics...

The ride height in the 140mm - 10mm configuration is the same as the ride height in the 140mm configuration; adding bottom out spacers reduces available travel without lowering the fork so A-C for the unsagged fork is still 551mm.

I don't think this will change your plans but if you were expecting the 140mm - 10mm config to handle any differently than the 140mm config, it won't.

[Stu Pidassle]

Yes, that spacer config will get you 140mm - 10mm = 130mm net travel and 10mm additional crown clearance.

The one clarification I would make has to do with this statement:



The ride height in the 140mm - 10mm configuration is the same as the ride height in the 140mm configuration; adding bottom out spacers reduces available travel without lowering the fork so A-C for the unsagged fork is still 551mm.

I don't think this will change your plans but if you were expecting the 140mm - 10mm config to handle any differently than the 140mm config, it won't.

Thank you. My statement about impacting handling was specific to running the STD vs. EXT version of the fork. I also plan on cutting the steerer tube to eliminate the number of headset spacers vs. the bluto keep my handle bars in roughly the same place. My current setup has 2+ inches of spacers.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[compengr]

A quick update. I have a handful of rides on the fork and it is indeed breaking in. There is still a small amount of stiction at room temperature, but i only notice it when working on the bike. Nothing when riding. Another thing I noticed is it's completely stiction free when out in the cold. Don't know if that's by design (could very well be). Either way, I'm happy.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[Nurse Ben]

Building up my old Wozo for my son, outfitted with a Mastodon Comp STD 120mm.

Bumped the travel to 140mm, easy peazy, same process as the Pro.

After having done this a few times, it takes me no more than twenty minutes with the fork off the bike.

Then yesterday afternoon I took out my Wozo and did an extended ride in the hills behind our new house, dirt roads that lead out and way out, ended up taking the shortcut back, basically a mountain side of baby head lava boulders, some serious risk for self harm, and it was child's play

Big tires and big suspension are made for that kind of stuff, but next time I'm taking the Barbes!

I rode down that slope from the top and I didn't even land on my head once!

[Shamis]

Well, after all the hemming and hawing, I finally pulled the trigger on a Pro STD 120 for my Les Fat. Also ordered the cane creek lower headset and +3mm race.

Since I haven't seen many pics in this thread, I definitely post up a couple after I install the fork.

[Kungfupanda]

Offering a breath of fresh Eye Candy for those who might find value.

120STD set at 140 on Crestone. Somewhat saddened by the image quality.

[FireinMTB]

Is anyone rocking this fork on a Beargrease yet? Specifically a large aluminum Beargrease. Trying to decide between this and the bluto. From what I've read, as long as this fork fits right, it's the clear winner.

Thanks!,

[Shamis]

Ok, got my 120 Pro STD on my Medium Les Fat. I'm pretty happy with this fork as it looks the beast and I have some confidence that it will meet my expectations of stiffness. Leaving it 120 for now. Will do some experimentations with aire pressure and dampening over the next few rides and this will determine if it stays on. Every previous attempt of me adding a fork to a hard tail has always resulted in reverting back to full rigid.

Cane Creek ZS56 110 Lower Bearing and +3mm race. Looks like it has created the perfect clearance for the control lever.

Perfect tire clearance with JJ 4.8 on Mulefuts.

I saw someone else on here who was complaining of compatibility with their Kuat NV rack. I found a solution and tested on 65 miles of winding rough mountain roads with no issues.

Hopefully a maiden voyage of Santa Cruz Mountain singletrack tomorrow morning.

[monkey bike]

I'm about to pull the trigger on a 120 Pro STD for my large farley ex 9.8, but couldn't find a definitive answer if it clears the downtube, even though trek is spec'ing the 18's with the comp. Anyone?

[Stu Pidassle]

I'm about to pull the trigger on a 120 Pro STD for my large farley ex 9.8, but couldn't find a definitive answer if it clears the downtube, even though trek is spec'ing the 18's with the comp. Anyone?

I know someone is running that set up. Clearance is a challenge, he removed the adjuster knobs to give it a bit more space and added some frame protection.

For factory Farley's with the Mastodon doesn't Trek utilize the knock block device on the headset to protect the frame from the fork? Could you use one of those for your bike?

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[Sparkman999]

Something like this may give the needed clearance: https://www.mtbtools.com/product/ext...ork-clearance/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[Troy Carter]

Thanks to all that have posted here...it's been a good read and really helped me understand this fork. I've now got a Pro 120 Std which I've just put through it's first ride today. A couple quick notes:

I did not find it to have any stiction out of the box. Maybe some do but this one felt like butter to me.

I know the book says the Surly Bud won't work but I gave it a try anyway mostly because I don't have time to adjust it right now. Anyway, the Bud does rub the bottom of the crown just a tiny bit when you bottom the fork pretty hard. Not enough to send me over the bars but noticeable enough that I can agree with Manitou and suggest you don't do it without knowing the risk. I did let the air out of the fork and compress it to check the clearance and did not have any rubbing when doing this statically. So, the bumper must be doing it job well compressing a fair bit when needed which allows the rub.

Yes, I could bottom the fork off a small jump on the trails with 95psi in the fork. I'm a tall, 245lb rider so I tend to be rough on things. I started kinda low with pressure based on feedback from this forum and it honestly feels really great most of the time but I'll need to add pressure for bigger hits and summer riding where more speed is involved. Not a big deal as the label on the fork suggests I could run more psi anyway.

I plan to adjust this to 130mm travel by removing two spacers at the top and adding one at the bottom when I get the time. I know that will increase the A-C but I think it's worth trying before deciding. That should stop the tire rub on bigger hits and give a touch more travel to soak up those hits.

[bikemad1]

Hey guys,i have followed this thread with interest as a plan on putting a Mastodon on the front of my Salted rock candy(dual sus fatty).It has a bluto now,which is adequate for general trail duties but not for what the bike is capable of.Now,there is a company based down here in Australia selling Mastodon forks for a very reasonable price,BUT the stanchions are SILVER ?!! Ive loooked on the Manitou website and even asked the Manitou facebonk page and they didnt reply if they did a run of non black forks,but were interested to know the company that was selling them.This company is legit,ive bout from them before and no dramas whatso ever but im wondering if they have picked up Counterfit forks and not themselves realised.(I emailed them in regards to the silver stanchions and they seemed to know nothing at all about the fork(ie could it be extended etc..)but they said they were a liscenced dealer for Manitou,and they do carry other manitou forks that all look legit.Seeing as some of the posters here seem to be very much in the know I thought perhaps someone on here could shed some light on this,cheers

[Dougal]

Hey guys,i have followed this thread with interest as a plan on putting a Mastodon on the front of my Salted rock candy(dual sus fatty).It has a bluto now,which is adequate for general trail duties but not for what the bike is capable of.Now,there is a company based down here in Australia selling Mastodon forks for a very reasonable price,BUT the stanchions are SILVER ?!! Ive loooked on the Manitou website and even asked the Manitou facebonk page and they didnt reply if they did a run of non black forks,but were interested to know the company that was selling them.This company is legit,ive bout from them before and no dramas whatso ever but im wondering if they have picked up Counterfit forks and not themselves realised.(I emailed them in regards to the silver stanchions and they seemed to know nothing at all about the fork(ie could it be extended etc..)but they said they were a liscenced dealer for Manitou,and they do carry other manitou forks that all look legit.Seeing as some of the posters here seem to be very much in the know I thought perhaps someone on here could shed some light on this,cheers

Who's the seller? There has been a change in Aus distributor in the last year, but I've never seen or heard of a Mastodon with silver stanchions. It could be an OEM special build.

[akacoke]

ive seen in posted by some aus sellers, silver stanchion

[bikemad1]

they are a company called cyclingdeal. I found them on ebay.com.au .They claim to be a liscenced dealer,they have plenty of Manitou forks in their lineup so Idont doubt them,but like I said based on their reply they dont know much about them.The guy on the facebook Manitou page said he would look into it,as yet no reply.If they are legit and Made by manitou then I might jump on them,they are 650au and free postage

[bikemad1]

I think its just cyclingdeal,or have you seen them elsewhere as well mate?

[MozFat]

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Manitou-Masto...28.m4335.l8656 quick Google

[bikemad1]

Thats interesting MozFat,also looks like cyclingdeal is probably a branch of the american version.Would love to find out why the colour difference though,perhaps some prototypes they did before the settled on Black stanchions and just want to offload them?!

[Dougal]

they are a company called cyclingdeal. I found them on ebay.com.au .They claim to be a liscenced dealer,they have plenty of Manitou forks in their lineup so Idont doubt them,but like I said based on their reply they dont know much about them.The guy on the facebook Manitou page said he would look into it,as yet no reply.If they are legit and Made by manitou then I might jump on them,they are 650au and free postage

That's a US seller and the fork is a Mastodon Comp that appears to be OEM. Because OEM can order whatever spec they want, you won't know what it actually is until you've got it.

[bikemad1]

Sorry,what does OEM mean?

[Dougal]

Sorry,what does OEM mean?

Original Equipment Manufacturer. It means they were made in a special spec for a bike company.

They're different to the ones sold aftermarket retail.

[bikemad1]

Original Equipment Manufacturer. It means they were made in a special spec for a bike company.

They're different to the ones sold aftermarket retail.

Ah I see. So some company wanted the fork for a particular model but with silver stanchions. So these would be a legit product.Any idea if they would be any better or worse than the black ones?

[Rodney]

The silver stanchions are different... Thankfully, both of mine are black.

[bikemad1]

well at least they seem legit

[david.p]

Yes, I could bottom the fork off a small jump on the trails with 95psi in the fork. I'm a tall, 245lb rider so I tend to be rough on things. I started kinda low with pressure based on feedback from this forum and it honestly feels really great most of the time but I'll need to add pressure for bigger hits and summer riding where more speed is involved. Not a big deal as the label on the fork suggests I could run more psi anyway.

Have you considered using the IVA to adjust the spring rate? If you decide to keep the fork at 120mm, setting the IVA to the 100mm config will allow you to use lower pressure and not use all the travel as easily.

If you go to 140mm then leaving the IVA at 120mm would probably be a good idea.

When I changed my fork to 140mm I left the IVA at 120mm. In stock config I was regularly using all the travel, after the change I've yet to use full travel (though most riding has been on snow since the change). I haven't yet added the additional bumpers for tire clearance - after doing that I may adjust the IVA to allow the travel to be used more easily.

[bikedrd]

Delete

[Troy Carter]

Have you considered using the IVA to adjust the spring rate? If you decide to keep the fork at 120mm, setting the IVA to the 100mm config will allow you to use lower pressure and not use all the travel as easily.

If you go to 140mm then leaving the IVA at 120mm would probably be a good idea.

When I changed my fork to 140mm I left the IVA at 120mm. In stock config I was regularly using all the travel, after the change I've yet to use full travel (though most riding has been on snow since the change). I haven't yet added the additional bumpers for tire clearance - after doing that I may adjust the IVA to allow the travel to be used more easily.

I honestly have not got that far yet. I got the fork, dropped it on and rode it. I'm hoping to adjust the travel this week if I have time and ride it a bit more before deciding what to do with any other adjustments. But, it's interesting you say this because I thought I had read that adding travel without adjusting the IVA will make the fork more progressive and stiffer at the limit which could help me and you seem to confirm that.

[Rangie]

How are these forks handling the cold?

[Troy Carter]

How are these forks handling the cold?

I've only got a few rides in on mine so far. All rides between -5°f and +5°f and it's been perfect so far.

[bdundee]

I've on many rides with mine and down to about -5 f and it has been flawless. Actually so good I forget about it.

[Shark]

Does anyone sell the fork set at 140mm or do you have to adjust the 120mm version?

I'm assuming the Pro standard version (not ext) would work for a Fatillac?

[KTMNealio]

I honestly have not got that far yet. I got the fork, dropped it on and rode it. I'm hoping to adjust the travel this week if I have time and ride it a bit more before deciding what to do with any other adjustments. But, it's interesting you say this because I thought I had read that adding travel without adjusting the IVA will make the fork more progressive and stiffer at the limit which could help me and you seem to confirm that.

I'm 255 and I run alll 4 IVA tokens above the piston/seal. Without that I would either bottom out or it's too harsh.

[HDTVdevil]

Does anyone sell the fork set at 140mm or do you have to adjust the 120mm version?

I'm assuming the Pro standard version (not ext) would work for a Fatillac?

i'm sure your vendor can make the change to 140mm for you before shippping.

[MUSTCLIME]

You guys that are extending these forks are paying attention to the fork requirements of the frame makers. You put a 160mm fork on a frame that was designed for a 120mm fork, you risk tearing the head tube off the frame. That fork is a big lever arm and by increasing its the length you are increasing the load on the frame.

[HDTVdevil]

You guys that are extending these forks are paying attention to the fork requirements of the frame makers. You put a 160mm fork on a frame that was designed for a 120mm fork, you risk tearing the head tube off the frame. That fork is a big lever arm and by increasing its the length you are increasing the load on the frame.

Wouldn't that only be a risk if it changes the A-C distance? Changing the 120mm to 140mm keeps the same A-C.

[bdundee]

Wouldn't that only be a risk if it changes the A-C distance? Changing the 120mm to 140mm keeps the same A-C.

Ummmm no, it lengthens the axle to crown measurements by 20mm.

[HDTVdevil]

Ummmm no, it lengthens the axle to crown measurements by 20mm.

Think the docs say 571mm for both.

[david.p]

From the Mastodon travel change guide:

[bdundee]

Think the docs say 571mm for both.

Your docs are wrong then. Think about where the axle is and then where the crown race sits. Now make them 20mm further apart. That gives you a longer a2c.

[david.p]

Point being that the extra travel has to come from somewhere. When you lengthen the travel by removing top out spacers you are allowing the fork to extend further and increasing the A-C.

It's possible to configure the Mastodon to use only the bottom out spacers to limit travel giving the same 551mm A-C for the STD fork at 120mm and 140mm but that's not how it's configured from the factory or spec'd, likely because that would make the fork taller than most would want in the 120mm configuration.

[Shark]

Your docs are wrong then. Think about where the axle is and then where the crown race sits. Now make them 20mm further apart. That gives you a longer a2c.

Are you sure it's not just limiting the travel inside similar to a lefty?

[Troy Carter]

I'm 255 and I run alll 4 IVA tokens above the piston/seal. Without that I would either bottom out or it's too harsh.

Thanks for that. I'll make an adjustment to the IVA when I get in there and see how it changes things.

[Nurse Ben]

Don't ask, don't tell.

You guys that are extending these forks are paying attention to the fork requirements of the frame makers. You put a 160mm fork on a frame that was designed for a 120mm fork, you risk tearing the head tube off the frame. That fork is a big lever arm and by increasing its the length you are increasing the load on the frame.

[bdundee]

Are you sure it's not just limiting the travel inside similar to a lefty?

Positive we are not talking about limiting but extending. Now if someone has 20mm of spacers limiting the travel by the bottom out bumpers on a 140 fork giving you only 120mm of travel but the same a2c of of 140 than yes removing said spacers would give you back all 140 and keeping the A2C the same. That being said they are not configured that way (as stated above) and have absolutely no idea why one would set up a fork like this that way. Now a lefty that's another story.

[KTMNealio]

Thanks for that. I'll make an adjustment to the IVA when I get in there and see how it changes things.

I should also put that I run about 95 psi (on my gauge). Before I swapped the tokens I had to run 110 psi to keep it from blowing through the stroke.