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  1. #401
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    Quote Originally Posted by cycloxer13 View Post
    What type and width rim tape are you guys using?
    72mm wide 3m 8898 tape from mikesee. It's basically the same as Stan's tape but wider, cheaper, and blue.

  2. #402
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    656 grams each actual weight - unidirectional, matte finish, no decals - the lightest option. I can tell just by looking at these that they are really well made rims.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Light-Bicycle fat 90mm carbon rim.-img_20150106_084632530.jpg  

    Light-Bicycle fat 90mm carbon rim.-img_20150106_084610442.jpg  

    Light-Bicycle fat 90mm carbon rim.-img_20150106_085326469_hdr.jpg  

    Light-Bicycle fat 90mm carbon rim.-img_20150106_084600907_hdr.jpg  

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  3. #403
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    That bead seat area is designed different then my sets, prolly for the better fur sure just maybe a little harder to set up with a floor pump.

  4. #404
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    I'll let you know how it goes after I build them up. I always use a compressor. My technique is to put the tire on the rim. I add my sealant to the tire just by pouring in what I need. Then I remove the valve core. I quickly fill the tire through the valve with an air nozzle. I can get both beads to pop and seat quite easily. I put the core back in and inflate the tire to my desired pressure. Piece of cake.
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  5. #405
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    Just finished these up tonight - Hope Fatsno's 190XD/135 QR, DB14's w/ brass nipples, nothing fancy, but good quality and price performance. These wheels built up real easy btw.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Light-Bicycle fat 90mm carbon rim.-img_20150106_221713051.jpg  

    Light-Bicycle fat 90mm carbon rim.-img_20150106_221640031.jpg  

    Light-Bicycle fat 90mm carbon rim.-img_20150106_221556774.jpg  

    Light-Bicycle fat 90mm carbon rim.-img_20150106_205943152.jpg  

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  6. #406
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    What's been the actual measured ERD for these rims lately? My pair is arriving in a week, need to order spokes.

  7. #407
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    ERD is 535, though I think that is a bit short as the rim is fairly thick carbon. I used 258 mm spokes on the front wheel and rear drive side and 260's on the non-drive side. They were about right, maybe 1 mm short if you want perfection.
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  8. #408
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    Dropped another 300 grams per wheel from my Specialized Fatboy SL's. These set up tubeless, piece of cake - put the tire on the rim, inflated with a compressor, and both beads seated at less than 10 psi. Now I need some lighter tires!

    btw, these pictures are with the wheels taped up tubeless, so you can really compare apples-apples
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Light-Bicycle fat 90mm carbon rim.-img_20150108_072711678.jpg  

    Light-Bicycle fat 90mm carbon rim.-img_20150108_072642362.jpg  

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  9. #409
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    Here is what I did for tape: Velofuze 19 mm, wrapped 1 layer over each row of holes. This stuff adds only 10 grams per wheel - how about them apples! The wheels seal up incredibly easy, I mean you could probably get away with only a couple ounces of sealant.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Light-Bicycle fat 90mm carbon rim.-img_20150108_110225384_hdr.jpg  

    Light-Bicycle fat 90mm carbon rim.-img_20150108_110058935.jpg  

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  10. #410
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    Quote Originally Posted by cycloxer13 View Post
    Here is what I did for tape: Velofuze 19 mm, wrapped 1 layer over each row of holes. This stuff adds only 10 grams per wheel - how about them apples! The wheels seal up incredibly easy, I mean you could probably get away with only a couple ounces of sealant.
    FYI, the sealant is less for sealing the rim (although it does that, too) than it is for sealing punctures. For this, you'll need much more than a couple ounces. Most use between 5-8 ounces.

  11. #411
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    Explain to me exactly why you think I need to use more. (I'm not trying to be a jerk here, I am asking a serious question.) I've been running with 3-4 ounces for 4 months now on the Fatboy SL rims which were much more difficult to set up than these. I am thinking of using less until I have a problem. I think you only need enough to maintain a pool of liquid at the base of the tire.

    Also, I have removed thorns and sticks from my tires as I ride on some pretty gnarly snowmobile trails that don't always have snow cover. I have had great success with the Orange Seal sealant to date (not even the Sub Zero).
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  12. #412
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    With only a couple of ounces, what's likely to happen is that a majority of the sealant is likely to simply coat the inside of the tire, leaving very little left to do the job in the event of a puncture and what is there, will likely dry up much faster. ymmv

  13. #413
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    Yes I hear you. I've found once a tire is sealed, you can get away with 3 oz. in a fat tire and still have a usable pool in the bottom. I think 6 oz. is getting over-kill. Also, I suppose if you never want to check your tires, you might need more, but if you are inclined to check things more frequently and top off when necessary, you can get away with less.
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  14. #414
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    Just finished up the rear. Both tires mounted beautifully. I really like this tubeless setup as opposed to what I was running on the Fatboy SL wheels. Actual weight dropped was 300 grams for the front and 420 for the rear for a whopping 1.6# reduction. The lighter this thing gets, the more I like how it rides.
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  15. #415
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    Anyone have a chance to run smaller tires on these rims? I am about to pull the trigger on LB Fatbike rims but am torn between the 65 and 90. I would probably run a tire that is 4.5 most of the time but would want to have the option of a 3.8 or 4.0 for spring/fall riding. Ideally if the 90 mm work fine with a 4.0 I'd just assume get those. Thoughts?


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  16. #416
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    I can tell you my D5s really balloon up on the 90mm ones. If you run a 4.5" on a 65mm rim, it won't be anywhere near a "4.5". Running on the 90mm rim, you at least get close to the claimed width. I don't see much point to the 90mm unless you want to run more than 100mm (real width) tires. These tires are fairly "optimized" at on the wider rims, as far as tread pattern and contact with the ground.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  17. #417
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    The 90's are a good choice for a 4.5-4.8 tire. I run 4.6 Ground Control's on the 90's and they make a perfect winter setup. Amazingly I've run pressures in the 2's tubeless, with no issues. The tire blows up nicely and is well supported by the rim.
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  18. #418
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    I've been watching this thread for a bit, I'm 90% sold on the 90mm rim from LB. My only issue is with the sale. How would anyone rate their experience with LB on procurement? Does everyone hold their breath with this or is this vendor proven and reliable?

    TIA...
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  19. #419
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    Quote Originally Posted by -Todd- View Post
    I've been watching this thread for a bit, I'm 90% sold on the 90mm rim from LB. My only issue is with the sale. How would anyone rate their experience with LB on procurement? Does everyone hold their breath with this or is this vendor proven and reliable?

    TIA...
    I have received 2 sets from LB with great customer service. They have been around I believe about the longest fro Chi direct rims and I have heard of very very few complaints. I would not hesitate to order from them again, very professional.

  20. #420
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    Yep, I'll mirror what he says. You don't expect that they are going to show up in a few weeks, but they were close to their estimate. I chose not to "bug" them during the process (asking every week where they were) and they came, transaction was fine. I also got my rims custom-painted by them, which also turned out great.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  21. #421
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    Any chance you could measure the casing and tread width of a D5 on the 90mm rims? I would like to see if they will fit before pulling the trigger.
    thanks!

  22. #422
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    Though I run that setup, I'm not mounting them till conditions favor fat bikes. If I recall, it was close to 4.5 with significant pressure and a little less when running less.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  23. #423
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    If I remember right they where right around 112-113mm setup tubeless on 90mm rims.

  24. #424
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    If I remember right they where right around 112-113mm setup tubeless on 90mm rims.
    The True Tire Size thread agrees.

  25. #425
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    got the 90's and about to mount up some tires. what brand of tubeless valve stems are you all using?

  26. #426
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    Quote Originally Posted by wadedro View Post
    got the 90's and about to mount up some tires. what brand of tubeless valve stems are you all using?
    Whatever is my my bin and long enough.

  27. #427
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    Subscribed, just ordered some for a winter fatbike build.

  28. #428
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    Just got mine built up!




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  29. #429
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    cool thanks!mm's is what I need.

    much better than a 'around 4.5 I think' type answer ;-)

  30. #430
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    Still rocking my LB fat rims, ready for another season!
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  31. #431
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    What is the ideal tubeless tape width for the Light-Cycle 90mm rims? Is 72mm wide enough or would 78mm wide tape be better?
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  32. #432
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    I used the wide gorilla tape, it's on it's second season. I'm sure the surly guys know of something, with their 100mm rims.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  33. #433
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    Has anyone tried relacing their rims to a different hub? I've had em for a year or so on a Hope which is kind of terrible and want to swap it for a White Industries I have sitting around.

    My regular mechanic who built the wheels thinks de-tensioning them may be an issue, but the Hope causes so much drag I think I'm willing to test it.
    You change your own flats? Support your LBS and pay them to instead.

  34. #434
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    Quote Originally Posted by CyclingJunkie View Post
    What is the ideal tubeless tape width for the Light-Cycle 90mm rims? Is 72mm wide enough or would 78mm wide tape be better?
    I have run them with 4" inch going bead to bead with various kinds of tape and the easiest was 8898 tape. The last wheel I built I used the 1" 8898, single layer with a good over lap at the seam. I did this over each line of nipple holes. It has worked for over a year now without issues.

  35. #435
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    Quote Originally Posted by CyclingJunkie View Post
    What is the ideal tubeless tape width for the Light-Cycle 90mm rims? Is 72mm wide enough or would 78mm wide tape be better?
    Used 2 wraps of standard Stan's tape (the wider of the two 20-something mm tape), one down each row of holes.

  36. #436
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    Is a 48mm tubeless valve stem long enough to run these tubeless?

  37. #437
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    The rims aren't excessively deep like nextie.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  38. #438
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    Hey guys, Just looking for some help.

    I want to order these for my 16' Fatboy Trail (bluto up front), I want to reuse the Spesh hubs, can any help me selecting the options for lightest rim set up?

    Thanks.
    Crux E5 X1
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  39. #439
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    HED rims
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  40. #440
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    Quote Originally Posted by Volsung View Post
    Has anyone tried relacing their rims to a different hub? I've had em for a year or so on a Hope which is kind of terrible and want to swap it for a White Industries I have sitting around.

    My regular mechanic who built the wheels thinks de-tensioning them may be an issue, but the Hope causes so much drag I think I'm willing to test it.
    It will be fine.
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  41. #441
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    Light-Bicycle 90 Tubeless Troubleshooting

    My front tire went flat during my first "fat tubeless" ride at 5-6 PSI yesterday.

    I have a new Light-Bicycle 90mm wheelset that I want to run tubeless at low winter riding pressures (3-5 PSI). After mounting the tires, I inflated them to about 15 PSI. Both tires held 10-15 PSI in my cold garage for almost two weeks.

    I used the following:
    • One wrap of 78mm wide Sun Ringle Mulefut tape per rim
    • Stans Tubeless valve stems
    • 4oz Stans Sealant per tire
    • New VanHelga 120 TPI tires

    The one step I skipped was putting a tube in the tire, inflating, and letting them sit for 24 hours after taping the rim to compress all of the wrinkles & air bubbles. Could this be the cause?

    Is it important that the tape go all the way to the outside edge of the rim? (see pic)
    Light-Bicycle fat 90mm carbon rim.-fat-bike-rim-new.jpg
    After flatting, I pulled the tire off to inspect the tape and was expecting to find something obvious...but the tape looks fine to me.
    Light-Bicycle fat 90mm carbon rim.-lb90_tape.jpg

    Breaking the tire bead from the rim wasn't all that difficult which concerns me a little. Any ideas?
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  42. #442
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    Quote Originally Posted by CyclingJunkie View Post
    My front tire went flat during my first "fat tubeless" ride at 5-6 PSI yesterday.

    The one step I skipped was putting a tube in the tire, inflating, and letting them sit for 24 hours after taping the rim to compress all of the wrinkles & air bubbles. Could this be the cause?

    Is it important that the tape go all the way to the outside edge of the rim? (see pic)
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Breaking the tire bead from the rim wasn't all that difficult which concerns me a little. Any ideas?
    Not using a tube to compress things ? Not that important IMHO.

    Not running the tape slightly up the edge of the rim to be trapped by the tyre ? Almost certainly the problem.

    Also make sure you have a good clean hole in the tape for the valve to go through (I usually make mine fractionally too small for a good tight fit around the valve stem). Also cinch the valve down good and tight.

    HTH ?



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  43. #443
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    I have two sets of carbon hoops and I don't run the tape anywhere near the edge on either of em with no issues.

  44. #444
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    I have two sets of carbon hoops and I don't run the tape anywhere near the edge on either of em with no issues.
    I have some carbon 65mm wide rims with tape just over the spoke holes and no issues either.

    Without physically inspecting the leaky rim/tyre/tape job it's hard to pin point what could be the source of the leak.
    Some folks don't even run soloution in the tyres and have zero problems and loose less than a pound a month, go figure.

    Running things as I suggested might just eliminate the leak. It may not. But it covers two of the potential leak points.

    Just my 2¢


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  45. #445
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    I ran 6 oz of sealant in my 90mm rims but I also compressed the tape with a tube.
    You change your own flats? Support your LBS and pay them to instead.

  46. #446
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    Putting a tube in overnight (at least) at relatively high pressures is key to sealing the edges and around the valve IMO. I used the wide gorilla tape and I've been using the wheels since last September or so, no flats ever, lots of winter races.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  47. #447
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fat Biker View Post
    I have some carbon 65mm wide rims with tape just over the spoke holes and no issues either.

    Some folks don't even run soloution in the tyres and have zero problems and loose less than a pound a month, go figure.





    Fat Biker
    Funny you mention this, I have no sealant in the back and about 1-2 oz in the front just due to a slow leak when I first set them up on my Nectie 90's with the Beists. Don't loose hardly any air and it's been months.

  48. #448
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fat Biker View Post
    I have some carbon 65mm wide rims with tape just over the spoke holes and no issues either.
    I have done the same on my 65mm LB rims. Two 20mm wraps to cover the staggered nipple holes. Maybe the termination of your tape is in a bad spot? Further out to the edge, fully under the bead would be OK. Short of the shelf would be OK.

    Trying to pre-tube it can't hurt, any old tube will work.
    I'd try a bit more than 4oz of sealant. With the large volume carcass most of the sealant is used up in the initial coating and not much is left for down the road.
    Did you see/hear the bead pop up onto the shelf?
    Did you do the Stan's dance?

  49. #449
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    I should add that my 6 oz of sealant was in BFLs and D5s, not exactly the tubeless-iest tires out there.
    You change your own flats? Support your LBS and pay them to instead.

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    spoke rub

    Just had a set of these rims laced to a pair of DT Swiss hubs and I am finding that the rear wheel groans under load. The rims flex and the spokes rub and squeak. Noise is only noticeable when under load and cranking uphill. The rims are pretty flimsy compared to a normal MTB rim which appears to be contributing to the problem. Curious if others have run into this.

  51. #451
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    Quote Originally Posted by slick50 View Post
    Just had a set of these rims laced to a pair of DT Swiss hubs and I am finding that the rear wheel groans under load. The rims flex and the spokes rub and squeak. Noise is only noticeable when under load and cranking uphill. The rims are pretty flimsy compared to a normal MTB rim which appears to be contributing to the problem. Curious if others have run into this.
    I truly can't believe the rims are flexing, what are you running for psi and what do you weigh? Does it seem like there is decent spoke tension?

  52. #452
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    Quote Originally Posted by slick50 View Post
    Just had a set of these rims laced to a pair of DT Swiss hubs and I am finding that the rear wheel groans under load. The rims flex and the spokes rub and squeak. Noise is only noticeable when under load and cranking uphill. The rims are pretty flimsy compared to a normal MTB rim which appears to be contributing to the problem. Curious if others have run into this.
    No way. I built my LB90 rims and they were a pleasure to build, because they made aluminum rims seem like a noodle in comparison. Usually, you have to go around an aluminum rim for a while and get the hop and lateral deviations out, but with the carbon rims, totally different. You can get them so insanely true because they are so much stiffer and a small difference in tension doesn't throw the whole thing into a crazy "chasing the true" operation.

    Something else is up. I built with revolution spokes (definitely not the stiffest) due to the wide spacing of the 90mm rim spoke holes and saving weight. They've been great and I have no more than about half an inch of clearance for my Dillinger 5 tires. They are close, but it doesn't rub and the rim is always super true.

    Couple of possibilities:

    -Spoke tension is weak (most likely).
    -Hub/flange is excessively flexy. This does exist, although it's more rare.
    -dropout flex (shimano-type skewer?)
    -frame flex (some aluminum chainstay yokes are particularly flexy)
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  53. #453
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    Thanks for the replies. Frame is a Surly ICT with 12 thru axel. Hubs are Dt Swiss. Problem is at the wheel. Noise comes regardless of tire pressure, issue is at the spokes. First day on the rear wheel, it made a ton of noise, which settled down and now only comes when the wheel is significantly loaded, i.e.. going up hill and cranking in a low gear. Each hard push down on the cranks causes the groaning. At first I thought the spokes had just loosened a bit because they were new, so I took the wheel back to the mechanic that built them. After re-tensioning them he confirmed it was due to flimsy rim. Builder expressed concern with increasing spoke tension any further due to risk of pulling the spokes through the rim. When you grab two parallel spokes and squeeze together I can see the rim flex, these rims are definitely soft compared to my ENVE 29er rims, and even the Nextie rims the shop was building up. I am curious if anyone else has run into this or if I should just cross my fingers and increase the spoke tension against the builders advice. For reference non drive side spoke tension 18, drive side 22.

  54. #454
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    lol, these 650g carbon rims are the polar opposite of "flimsy". I'm not sure that wheelbuilder knows what a "flimsy" rim is then. These don't really have ANY lateral give, the material doesn't flex or stretch like aluminum, so it's very difficult to get them out of true.

    Have you ever handled one of these things before it's built up?

    How many carbon rims have you built?

    The only possibility is your rim is cracked, which I seriously doubt. I would go feel how "stiff" these spokes feel compared to your other bikes, by grabbing them. I've built wheels that were "correct" according to the spoke tension, but in reality they were nowhere near the tension that they needed to be. Are there any threads showing at the nipples? If there are, that's a pretty good sign the builder got the wrong-sized spokes and doesn't want to wind up the nipples too hard, because the heads will break due to the insertion depth being insufficient.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  55. #455
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    lol, these 650g carbon rims are the polar opposite of "flimsy". I'm not sure that wheelbuilder knows what a "flimsy" rim is then.

    Have you ever handled one of these things before it's built up?

    How many carbon rims have you built?

    The only possibility is your rim is cracked, which I seriously doubt.
    I concur 100 percent.

  56. #456
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    I don't see it affecting the rear end so much, but this isn't going to be the stiffest BB junction, as the tube connects in the middle and doesn't really have anything reinforcing it at the sides. That's a hell of a long BB spindle that will flex IMO when force (pedaling) is applied. The longer the lever arm, the easier it is to flex. This as oppose to a carbon BB that flares the downtube to a width that matches the BB length, where the interface will be much stiffer. I'd think this would cause the front and rear end of the bike to flex a bit, with respect to each other. Don't know if it would cause just the wheel to flex, as the chainstay appears to have a stiffening brace welded in there, but the BB junction has me thinking that if it's going to flex, that'd be where it happens.

    This reminds me of the contrast of an old Raleigh M80 bike with flared (RAD type) tubing that was as wide as the BB at the junction. That thing was steel and stiff as hell, like riding on a rock. Way way over the top in terms of frame-stiffness IMO.

    Surly frames are definitely not the stiffest (not like an aluminum bike) and the wider you make it, the more loosey-goosey it gets. A through axle can help, but it assumes the frame is stiff enough to not allow any flex.


    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  57. #457
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    Without seeing the rim personally I wonder if this is a faulty rim ?

    Maybe a Friday afternoon one missing a layer in the layup ?

    Cracked internally ?

    I too have never heard of carbon rims being described as "flimsy". Least of all fat bike rims .

    The worst I've heard is "fragile" applied to the HED Big Deals (apparently they are designed and built for snow use and not much else ???)

    But these Chiner rims, "flimsy" or "flexy"? Nah something has got to be wrong somewhere.

    You can rail in these puppies as just a rim never mind as a wheel and they take it all. Unlike their alloy counterparts. Just search YouTube.


    Fat Biker

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    Thanks to those of you trying to help! Both rims (unbuilt) straight out of the box standing up on floor could be easily flexed with one hand pushing down and moderate pressure. I could also flex inner and outer surface together (like squeezing a sandwich), not bead lock area. I was hoping once built the spokes would make them stiffer, but I did have my reservations. My Enve rims by contrast could be sat on unbuilt with no flex. Wheels were built up by a reputable local wheelbuilder and checked by coworkers. Rims weighed the advertised 650g. At this point I'm confident it's the rims that are the issue. What I am trying to figure out is have others ran into this issue? Stock wheels were silent btw.
    Last edited by slick50; 12-19-2015 at 10:42 AM. Reason: Add

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    I've had 2 sets and I could flex the bulge around the bead seat with my thumb a little on all of em but the rims as a whole where very stiff before and after builds.

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    Bummer, guess I got a bad batch.....

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    I think it's safe to say nobody has encountered that. Again, it's the polar opposite of how these rims are. This is how much clearance I have with my Dillinger 5s, and I don't rub. My Revolution 2.0/1.5/2.0 are some of the flexiest spokes out there too. I actually have significantly less than the 1/2 inch I said before, more like a quarter at best and these tires would not work on an aluminum rim for two reasons, one, most arent set up for tubeless and won't lock in place straight and two, the carbon rims are so much more true and hold their shape so much better (stiff). In fact, if I was rubbing, it'd be pretty obvious. I got a few layers of stickers on there to provide warning if it does.

    Light-Bicycle fat 90mm carbon rim.-image.jpg

    The part that the tire rests on and the bead lock doesn't have to be very thick or strong, so it's not. The spoke bed on the other hand, that has to be strong, as your hubs are basically "suspended" by the rim at any given time, kind of like a suspension bridge, but all this has nothing to do with the lateral rigidity of the rim. If there really was that much flex going on, there is no way in hell I could run my tires without sawing through my chainstays.

    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  62. #462
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    Quote Originally Posted by slick50 View Post
    Thanks to those of you trying to help! Both rims (unbuilt) straight out of the box standing up on floor could be easily flexed with one hand pushing down and moderate pressure. I could also flex inner and outer surface together (like squeezing a sandwich), not bead lock area. I was hoping once built the spokes would make them stiffer, but I did have my reservations. My Enve rims by contrast could be sat on unbuilt with no flex. Wheels were built up by a reputable local wheelbuilder and checked by coworkers. Rims weighed the advertised 650g. At this point I'm confident it's the rims that are the issue. What I am trying to figure out is have others ran into this issue? Stock wheels were silent btw.
    I have had 6 of these rims over varying times. The inner surface where tape would go will flex, however the outer surface will not flex. A standalone rim, standing upright, pushing down on the beads will flex. I think that's an unrealistic test. Aluminum will just bend and/or break once bent to far. When "squeezing like a sandwich", the inner surface flexes, I do not think the outer surface is budging. If it truly is, the maybe it is a bad rim, but I have to think it is not. I think comparing it to a Enve rim is unfair, way less surface area to do a true comparison. I've had Roval carbon (several models) and LB carbon (also several models) rims that can NOT be (sandwich) squeezed together, but there is simply less surface area to do that.

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    As a follow up, I decided to start over and re-tape both of my LB 90mm rims and run the tape all the way to the edge of the bead shelf. For this round, I used 3M 8087 75mm wide tape so there is a large overlap in the middle.

    Light-Bicycle fat 90mm carbon rim.-lb90_3m8087tape.jpg
    I then put a tube in and mounted two older, loose fitting tires and left them inflated at 15 PSI overnight to flatten the tape.

    Observations:
    1) I suck at applying fat tape. Lots of air bubbles and wrinkles.
    2) The bead shelf/tire interface on my LB 90s is not as tight as I would like. I can install & remove new VanHelgas without too much struggle or drama. My one year old Dillinger 5s come off very easily...way too easily to give me any confidence that they would work at 3-4 PSI. Crap.

    Questions:
    1) Has anyone had to build up the diameter of the bead shelf of their LB 90s with tape?

    I re-mounted the VanHelgas after seeing that the D5s were too loose. They popped into place nicely just like the first time I mounted them. I also used 6oz of Stans vs 4oz this time. The real test will be when I drop the pressure to 4 PSI and ride them on snow.
    Eat Food. Chop Wood. Ride Bike.

  64. #464
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    Quote Originally Posted by CyclingJunkie View Post
    As a follow up, I decided to start over and re-tape both of my LB 90mm rims and run the tape all the way to the edge of the bead shelf. For this round, I used 3M 8087 75mm wide tape so there is a large overlap in the middle.

    I then put a tube in and mounted two older, loose fitting tires and left them inflated at 15 PSI overnight to flatten the tape.

    Observations:
    1) I suck at applying fat tape. Lots of air bubbles and wrinkles.
    2) The bead shelf/tire interface on my LB 90s is not as tight as I would like. I can install & remove new VanHelgas without too much struggle or drama. My one year old Dillinger 5s come off very easily...way too easily to give me any confidence that they would work at 3-4 PSI. Crap.

    Questions:
    1) Has anyone had to build up the diameter of the bead shelf of their LB 90s with tape?

    I re-mounted the VanHelgas after seeing that the D5s were too loose. They popped into place nicely just like the first time I mounted them. I also used 6oz of Stans vs 4oz this time. The real test will be when I drop the pressure to 4 PSI and ride them on snow.

    I think your skills of applying tape is fine. Some tapes stretch easier and can avoid wrinkles, but as long a good portion at the edge is sealed down, you should fine. The valve hole looks suspect at the circle edge though. But it depends on the type of stem you use, O-ring style may seal it, but if it's the tapered rubber plug, it looks like there is a spot for air or sealant to get through on the edge. I now heat up a small taper punch or awl and poke through leaving a small round hole and then force the stem through that. I generally use tapered rubber plug stem, ie. Stan's style. I now use 8898 tape for my rims and in the case of LB 90mm, I used 1" tape over each row of spoke holes, pulling extremely hard and making it a tight wrap. I over lap about 8 inches.
    Light-Bicycle fat 90mm carbon rim.-s-l1600.jpg
    I then use a heat gun to warm the tape and make sure its down or use a tire/tube with pressure in a warm environment. No tape anywhere else. Seals great and it's neat and wrinkle free. You could do that and then also apply tape at the bead seat to build up as necessary for your tires. I use the Spec Ground Controls and those tires have an extremely tight bead and do not require any build up.

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