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  1. #1
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    Lefty build for dummies...

    Looking for a parts list for building a fat Lefty. Can someone check the
    list and add/change/advise etc?
    If you were just going out and purchasing everything for a complete build.
    1. Lefty shock: DLR/ELO/Max etc (non bonded clamps)
    2. MCS clamps
    3. Lefty Hub: cannondale/Project 321 etc
    Axle Cap & Bolt
    lefty O ring seals or bearing covers needed or do they come with the new OEM hub?
    4. Rim 65mm~100mm rim dual hole drilled
    5. Spokes/nipples - use freespoke or send to builder/MCS
    6. Rotor


    Anything I'm missing?
    thank you

  2. #2
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    Looks good to me
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Lefty build for dummies...-image.jpg  


  3. #3
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    Yup!

    Lefty build for dummies...-image.jpg

  4. #4
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    Yup, I'd say that'll do it too.....

    262 disc side, 264 non disc side, just FYI.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  5. #5
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    Lefty build for dummies...-dscn2019.jpg
    Lefty is the best upgrade you can do!

    I am upgrading my upgrade haha, going to a lefty Max, should be done in a week and my old one will be up for grabs.

  6. #6
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    Shoot me a PM when ur ready to sell...............trying to get to the head of the line lol

  7. #7
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    Has anyone done that to a Moonlander?
    Santa Cruz Tallboy
    Moonlander

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by thecanoe View Post
    Has anyone done that to a Moonlander?
    Many people have. My brother in law just did it to his about a month ago. Sorry I don't have a pic.

  9. #9
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    Have to do some reading on leftys....what are mcs clamps?....
    The bike is never to heavy, you are just to WEAK!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by geffr999 View Post
    Looking for a parts list to build a fat leftie

    Anything I'm missing?
    yessir the rightie leg

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by MUSTCLIME View Post
    Have to do some reading on leftys....what are mcs clamps?....
    Mendon CycleSmith

    Longer clamps which connect the fork leg to the head tube/headset. This allows wide tires while preserving normal handling.

    Info here: Cannondale, Professional and Trusted Lefty and Head Shock Service Performed by Craig Smith

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by thecanoe View Post
    Has anyone done that to a Moonlander?
    Yep. BionX motor too, why? Why not.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Lefty build for dummies...-unnamed.jpg  

    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  13. #13
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    Awesome, thanks for the info. MCS, I will be calling soon!

    Those leftys look SWEET!

    any preference on spokes? DT double butted or?

  14. #14
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    Another question:

    Uber drop vs standard:
    Is there a measurement or spot needed to know which clamps will work?
    Headtube measurement of 12cm.

  15. #15
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    Total stack is what you need to know.

    Standards are 165mm max

    Ubers are 188mm max.

    So with a 120mm ht, average hs stack being about 30mm, you're easily in the standard range....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  16. #16
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    More great info!

    Another "dummies" question for wheelbuild for lefty.

    80mm rim
    Laced to left side holes 3x
    built with lefty adapter and pugsley adapter
    Dish? anything else?

    I will post at the end of this thread with all info in one post. thanks!

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by geffr999 View Post
    More great info!

    Another "dummies" question for wheelbuild for lefty.

    80mm rim
    Laced to left side holes 3x
    built with lefty adapter and pugsley adapter
    Dish? anything else?

    I will post at the end of this thread with all info in one post. thanks!
    I have no idea. MCS builds all my Lefty wheels.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by brebla View Post
    Mendon CycleSmith

    Longer clamps which connect the fork leg to the head tube/headset. This allows wide tires while preserving normal handling.

    Info here: Cannondale, Professional and Trusted Lefty and Head Shock Service Performed by Craig Smith
    Thanks for your reply....guess I will start looking for an older lefty 29er with removable clamps...ballpark, what is a ok price for a used one? anything I need to look out for?
    The bike is never to heavy, you are just to WEAK!

  19. #19
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    Just FYI, searching with 29er as a parameter will turn up a ton of modern forks, ones that won't work.

    Better to stick to 26, or, DLR titanium, Max 130 or 140, alloy, etc.....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  20. #20
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    A year ago it was much easier to find cheap lefties, they were all over eBay etc....
    Not so much now.

    I just paid 400 for a max, plus had MCS service it. Still the best fat front sus option IMO

    Quote Originally Posted by MUSTCLIME View Post
    Thanks for your reply....guess I will start looking for an older lefty 29er with removable clamps...ballpark, what is a ok price for a used one? anything I need to look out for?

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by MUSTCLIME View Post
    Thanks for your reply....guess I will start looking for an older lefty 29er with removable clamps...ballpark, what is a ok price for a used one? anything I need to look out for?
    There is a lefty max listed on Facebook fat bike trader. It was listed in June so you have to scroll down the page. Does not say it was sold.

  22. #22
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    So here is updated list:

    1. Lefty shock: DLR/ELO/Max etc (non bonded clamps)

    2. MCS clamps: Uber or standard? Call the man!
    Total stack is what you need to know...(headtube measure + Headset ~30mm ish)
    Standards are 165mm max.
    Ubers are 188mm max.


    3. Lefty Hub:
    cannondale, Project 321, Woods, Circus Monkey, etc
    Cannondale Axle Cap & Bolt: part # QC117
    Cannondale Bearing seal cover: Part # QC118

    4. Rim:
    65mm~100mm rim dual hole drilled
    Laced to left side holes 3x
    built with lefty adapter and pugsley adapter

    5. Spokes/nipples - use freespoke or send to builder/MCS
    262 disc side
    264 non disc side

    6. Rotor: 6 hole rotor

  23. #23
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    I was thinking....why can't you use a lefty with bonded clamps? If you are replacing the clamps, can't you just take a dremmel with a fiber cutting wheel and cut the bonded clamps off?
    The bike is never to heavy, you are just to WEAK!

  24. #24
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    Someone did that, used a metal lathe and machined off the bonded clamps....
    Much easier to unbolt....

    Quote Originally Posted by MUSTCLIME View Post
    I was thinking....why can't you use a lefty with bonded clamps? If you are replacing the clamps, can't you just take a dremmel with a fiber cutting wheel and cut the bonded clamps off?

  25. #25
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    Ok, not sure why you would have to use a lathe....fiber wheels go through AL like butter, the trick is to not go to deep.I would think you could 3 cut them and then just give them a little smack....My concern is where the tube is able to accept the clamp...the bonded ones the area may be ver small.....I am asking because in looking for leftys, there seems to not be that many around....( note: no ebay for me, been burned to many times)
    The bike is never to heavy, you are just to WEAK!

  26. #26
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    Fat Bike Trader face book page had one a few days ago.

  27. #27
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    The primary issue is that the threads which the top collar screws onto (top collar holds the whole shebang together), are part of the upper clamp. Cut the clamp off, you cut off the means of holding everything together. As mentioned, it's tricky to cut off just enough, do too much, and you've ruined your fork for any purpose. Also, the carbon chassis were never designed or built to be clamped, and I won't be the one to tell you that the structure will be fine if you do.

    A few folks have done various approaches, some kind of slick and well thought out, but one off and pricey to try unless you have a machine shop in your life, others, I shake my head and disassociate with as they were so sketchy.

    End of the day, if you want to order it up, plug and play by the end of the week, buy a Bluto. Want to save some $, and are willing to dig a bit and wait, the Lefty will be awesome (had a fork in the shop yesterday, guy bought it for $50 with a hub, sent it back with a pair of clamps, serviced, travel limited ready to roll, under $300).

    Want a very future proof, stiff, plush, adjustable a2c and travel fork that can do, Fatty, 26, 650B, 29 and 29+, all in one fork with two sets of clamps? Yeah, Lefty does all that too.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  28. #28
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    Thanks...thats what I was asking..the problem is I have a bike with a 1 1/8 steerer...so the bludo is out. If I want front suspention( I live in nj, the land of a billon rocks), seems the lefty is the only option...that or some kind of double crown thing but then I have to worry about getting the front end to tall and maybe snapping a head tube..
    The bike is never to heavy, you are just to WEAK!

  29. #29
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    Bluto is offered in a straight steerer, just FYI, but I'd still get a Lefty
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Bluto is offered in a straight steerer, just FYI, but I'd still get a Lefty
    Is it? Where?
    Worked at Trek/Fisher dealer 2008-2013. Only a little biased.

  31. #31
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    Re: Lefty build for dummies...

    Quote Originally Posted by blunderbuss View Post
    Is it? Where?
    Not for the american market. According to the interwebs.

    https://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/bluto

  32. #32
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    Yea, I asked a rep...he said no 1 1/8 steerers.....tapered or go home...as far as I know. Seems a lot of the new fatties will have tappered steerers in 2015...want to avoid buying a new frame.
    The bike is never to heavy, you are just to WEAK!

  33. #33
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    Spoke with our Aussie suppliers two days go and he had just got the tech doc/parts docs through. Definitely no straight steered, tapered only.

  34. #34
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    (MCS) I just bought a bike equipped with an MCS Lefty Max conversions. It's currently running a Surly Nate on a Holy Rolling Darryl. Will the Lefty allow me to mount a Surly Bud?

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by FallingRock View Post
    (MCS) I just bought a bike equipped with an MCS Lefty Max conversions. It's currently running a Surly Nate on a Holy Rolling Darryl. Will the Lefty allow me to mount a Surly Bud?
    Not MCS here but I do have two of his Lefties and yes you can mount a Bud or any other huge tire on that fork. If it runs too close to the fork you just redish the rim to gain the required clearance then loosen the fork clamps and rotate the fork in the clamps till the tire is centered in the head tube. Tighten the clamps and your good.
    I am running Bud/Clownshoe on mine..
    Last edited by gcappy; 07-18-2014 at 05:44 AM.

  36. #36
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    The bike is never to heavy, you are just to WEAK!

  37. #37
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    ive always wondered, does rotating the clamps for clearance affect offset? noticeably?

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by dRjOn View Post
    ive always wondered, does rotating the clamps for clearance affect offset? noticeably?
    Rotation is for centering the tire to the head tube. Tire/fork clearance is obtained by dish. I have never riden either of our fat bikes with a stock fork so I have nothing to compare it to as far as offset.

  39. #39
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    yeah, i meant, lets say you went from a 3.8 to a 4.8" tyre, and you want to have the tyre central, you would want to move the fork leg away from the midline, thus affordign more room for the tyre, so you would rotate the fork leg in the clamps (presumably) so that the clamps are at a greater angle from the line described by the radius of the tyre, which to my mind would decreasee the fork offset, and also you would re dish the wheel to centre it.

    im wonderign if the offset reduction is significant? (and i doubt it!)

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by MUSTCLIME View Post
    That's not a lefty....
    (haha!)
    Yep it's an option, don't see too many bikes running that (probably due to the weight).

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by blunderbuss View Post
    Is it? Where?
    Sorry, my error.

    Could have sworn that someone here had mentioned that when they were first introduced, just checked now, and yeah, I was wrong.....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  42. #42
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    Yep, probably some guys out there might notice a difference, doubt it would be much though, we're talking the fork leg moving out an extra 1/2", which translates to not very much angle/offset difference in reality.

    My guess is you will notice the extra overall height/head angle if you goo too high. (I did not notice a change from stock pugs fork on my 9zero to a Maverick or lefty DLR (100mm), but I did notice a handling difference after going to the lefty max this last time)

    Quote Originally Posted by dRjOn View Post
    yeah, i meant, lets say you went from a 3.8 to a 4.8" tyre, and you want to have the tyre central, you would want to move the fork leg away from the midline, thus affordign more room for the tyre, so you would rotate the fork leg in the clamps (presumably) so that the clamps are at a greater angle from the line described by the radius of the tyre, which to my mind would decreasee the fork offset, and also you would re dish the wheel to centre it.

    im wonderign if the offset reduction is significant? (and i doubt it!)

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by dRjOn View Post
    yeah, i meant, lets say you went from a 3.8 to a 4.8" tyre, and you want to have the tyre central, you would want to move the fork leg away from the midline, thus affordign more room for the tyre, so you would rotate the fork leg in the clamps (presumably) so that the clamps are at a greater angle from the line described by the radius of the tyre, which to my mind would decreasee the fork offset, and also you would re dish the wheel to centre it.

    im wonderign if the offset reduction is significant? (and i doubt it!)
    Within the "working range" the difference is very slight from "skinny" fat, to fat fat.

    Beyond that range, sure, it would impact things for certain....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  44. #44
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    thanks: thought it would be extremely minimal.

  45. #45
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    Can you run a lefty on a tapered head?

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xpcgamer View Post
    Can you run a lefty on a tapered head?
    With the appropriate headset crown race, yep, no problem.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  47. #47
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    I am selling mine Lefty max with pbr internals,Mendon uber clamp,and wheel and hub.$800

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by hallett6103 View Post
    i am selling mine lefty max with pbr internals,mendon uber clamp,and wheel and hub.$800
    ouch!

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xpcgamer View Post
    ouch!
    Actually that's a great price, cheaper than a bluto after you add in a wheel, for a better product
    Price it separately and see what you come up with.

  50. #50
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    Price just a PBR upgrade,its a smokin deal.The only reason I am selling is I will be getting rid of my current fatty,just time for a change.

  51. #51
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    Hallett6103 sent you another PM

  52. #52
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    Not to hijack the thread, but it seems the OP's questions were addressed. So, I'll ask mine while I have an audience full of lefty'd fat bike riders. I ask this because I have a lefty on my pugsley and I run it in both fat mode and 29+ mode. For those of you with frames that are not suspension corrected, how are you finding the handling to be? The a2c on my lefty dlr is much longer than the stock pugsley fork and I can't decide how I feel about it.

    Aside from the a2c being much longer, the other obvious side effects are a higher bb (especially in "krampug" mode) and a slacker HTA.

    I'm just curious about the experiences of others in riding like this.

  53. #53
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    When I measure the A2C (as best I can) in the free state it is quite long but when sitting on the bike the sag brings the A2C down to almost exactly where it should be. Am I wrong to say this is how it should be? Regardless, I know my lefty Fatback is an awesome bike and extremely fun to ride!

  54. #54
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    Just because I am too lazy to go Google right now. What is the a2c on the fatback?

  55. #55
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    I found the geometry change with a lefty DLR wasn't too different.
    Adding a max, you could tell quite a bit....

  56. #56
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    I think it's round 458, but don't quote me.

    If you have a DLR, should be 480, so, as mtuck1 said, with sag (typically 10 to 20 mm) you should be spot on or darn close.

    Of course, if you have a longer version, that's a different story....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  57. #57
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    This thread just made me go measure my Fatback A2C, and it came to 458mm. Stack with Cane Creek 40 HS is 175mm.

    Since dummies is in the title, I'll ask this....most of the Lefty forks have 1.5" steerers, where does the 1 1/8" steer tube come from? MCS? A-dapter kit?
    Jason
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  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by JAGI410 View Post
    Since dummies is in the title, I'll ask this....most of the Lefty forks have 1.5" steerers, where does the 1 1/8" steer tube come from? MCS? A-dapter kit?
    It is exactly as you suspect, yep.
    Disclaimer: I run Regular Cycles (as of 2016). As a profiteer of the bicycle industry, I am not to be taken very seriously.

  59. #59
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    Yes, the MCS fat clamps come with 1-1/8" steer tube.

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    I think it's round 458, but don't quote me.

    If you have a DLR, should be 480, so, as mtuck1 said, with sag (typically 10 to 20 mm) you should be spot on or darn close.

    Of course, if you have a longer version, that's a different story....
    My Lefty is the Max 140

    My bike is a Large (18") Fatback aluminum 170.

    With the Uber drop Mendon clamps the free A2C is 498mm.

    The sag is set at 35mm which gives an effective A2C of 463mm.

    The owners manual for this fork says sag should be between 35 and 50mm so I could put a little more sag in and the A2C would be spot on but I like it the way it is.

  61. #61
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    Can't you just slide the forks up or down in the clamps to adjust a2c?

  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by hotrozz View Post
    Can't you just slide the forks up or down in the clamps to adjust a2c?
    If you have a short stack height, so the clamps are fairly close together, yes, but only to a degree. The clamps sit on a thicker OD section, which terminates shortly below what is the normal lower clamp position.

    Since most fatties tend to have taller headtubes now, the likelihood of relying on that as a tuning method isn't great for most folks.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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    Lefty build for dummies...

    There's also the fact that, if you drop it down, you're likely to need to further reduce the travel


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    Quote Originally Posted by mtuck1 View Post
    When I measure the A2C (as best I can) in the free state it is quite long but when sitting on the bike the sag brings the A2C down to almost exactly where it should be. Am I wrong to say this is how it should be? Regardless, I know my lefty Fatback is an awesome bike and extremely fun to ride!
    Using the sagged measurement is correct as that's how the bike will ride when in a neutral state. I typically sag a fork ~25% so for the 130mm fork I just bought for my Krampus that's 33mm shorter than its unweighted A to C.

    The stock Krampus fork is 483mm long so a 130mm suspension fork with an A to C of ~516mm would be the right length to maintain the bike's geo sagged.
    Safe riding,

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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    If you have a short stack height, so the clamps are fairly close together, yes, but only to a degree. The clamps sit on a thicker OD section, which terminates shortly below what is the normal lower clamp position.

    Since most fatties tend to have taller headtubes now, the likelihood of relying on that as a tuning method isn't great for most folks.
    How much of a difference are we talking about? Just eyeballing my DLR2 it appears to have the same tube OD all the way down, unless it's just a very small difference in diameter.

  66. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by hotrozz View Post
    How much of a difference are we talking about? Just eyeballing my DLR2 it appears to have the same tube OD all the way down, unless it's just a very small difference in diameter.
    Enough.

    Just below where the keyway stops, the OD drops.

    In "the zone"? Clamps clamp and there's a bit of space left when they're tight.

    Below, they fully close on themselves, and you don't get full purchase, dirt and grit gets in, clicks and creaks start, bad news.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Enough.

    Just below where the keyway stops, the OD drops.

    In "the zone"? Clamps clamp and there's a bit of space left when they're tight.

    Below, they fully close on themselves, and you don't get full purchase, dirt and grit gets in, clicks and creaks start, bad news.
    Hmm, interesting. Just for fun I went out and calipered my DLR2 fork. I'm running an uber drop clamp with the fork slid down in the top clamp until it stops at the fork cap. The bottom of my lower clamp sits almost where the keyway stops.
    Fork diameter just below the bottom clamp is 1.645", just above the lower clamp it is 1.630" (so the lower clamp is actually on a tapered section of the fork) An inch below the keyway it maintains the 1.645" and then gradually tapers down to 1.625". An inch above the lower clamp it tapers down to 1.625 and pretty much maintains that diameter all the way to the top.
    My question is, where exactly is "the zone" where the clamp should sit? It seems like the lower clamp would still have adequate clamping force even at the forks smallest diameter of 1.625" What am I missing here?
    Last edited by hotrozz; 09-06-2014 at 03:48 PM.

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    Fully closed clamps don't allow for any degree of control over the tightness. Fully closed clamps mean you need either smaller ID clamps, or a larger OD clamped surface.

    The clamps need to be on the fatter portion of the surface, using that metric.

    Going to the thinner OD?

    Not what I recommend, but it's a big old world, do what makes you happy!
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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