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  1. #401
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shinkers View Post
    I agree that the Beargrease is more slack. Cool deal since I thought it was 69. Go figure. Still, static it'd be 67.5-68*. No idea where you're getting 66.83 from. To go along with this though, if you want to compare geometries the Wozo still has a steeper seat tube angle, shorter chainstays, and longer top tube.
    I agree the Wozo is very progressive minus the HTA, but for me that is one of the most important angles on the bike. I'm not in love with the BG geo and definitely don't think it's progressive, I'm not defending it. Actually quite the opposite, because the geo is not that great for my body type I'm shopping for a new frame. When I initially researched the Wozo I was super excited and already had my shop check if my size was in stock. I was getting ready to list my BG until I looked a little harder and the numbers didn't match up. Listen, I'm vey disappointed it wasn't exactly what I thought it was originally. That being said with every other angle being in the right spot a 140mm fork would bring all those numbers and angles back to life for me. I'm just not sure if I want to ride a 140 for snow only. If it would get some summer trail time I would be all over it with the 140!

    As far as my calculations go, I use the website below to swap out forks. Mess around with it, I find it very helpful when building a bike up.
    https://bikegeo.muha.cc

  2. #402
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    Head angle is important for sure, but with fat bikes, the entire geometry becomes a big deal because head angles are still pretty steep when compared to typical trail bikes.

    I'm not accusing you of defending the BG, just trying to understand your numbers. I'll check that link out.

    Apologies if I came across too aggressive, some of these numbers just had me scratching my head a bit.

  3. #403
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    No problem at at Shinkers, you didn't come off agressive. Just a friendly discussion

  4. #404
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    Just out of curiosity I ran the numbers and counting in 20-25% sag I will need to run the Mastodon at 140mm to match the geo on Kona's page pretty much spot on. Works for me I was just hoping to go a little slacker in the summer months.

  5. #405
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    Waaaay overthinking it, and compared to a Beargrease, OMFG, the Beargrease is an XC fat bike for racing ainít no way is it built for a 140mm fork, canít run an Angleset, chainstays are more than an inch longer than the Wozo, and it rides like a brick.

    Who is this JP guy, like he is some kind of guru, hell, he ainít even rode a Wozo, probably never seen more than a picture, Meanwhile Iíve built three Wozo, Iíve talked to Kona a ton arse of times, drove to BC to get bare frames, figured out the axle length. Fíing amateur.

    Personally, I donít want a slacker head angle because then I would have to use a short fork or an angleset . The Wozo is a trail killer with a long travel fork. Buy it and go ride!

  6. #406
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    You crack me up😂

  7. #407
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    The title reads 26 x 4.8.... can the rear clear a true 4.8 on 80-100mm wheel?

    Update- I was just informed a true 4.8 on a appropriate rim does not fit. Sorry for the silly question, title is a little confusing.
    Last edited by jpfurn; 1 Week Ago at 08:34 AM. Reason: Update

  8. #408
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    Edit: not worth it.

  9. #409
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    Quote Originally Posted by PCT View Post
    Something like this, I think? https://www.probikesupply.com/produc...a-factory-fork

    Mine is from 2016, can't remember where I bought it. Stanchion clearance is massive, I have fit a 4.6 Flowbeist in there. IDK if you could retrofit new lowers in yours, probably would need the proper crown etc.

    It's a very capable fork and fits a wide variety of tire sizes. Good down to about 15-20 degrees. Hoping the Mastodon has significantly better cold-weather performance.
    Just an update. I ordered this fork. They sent a 2018 with sku 910-20-394. This has the correct crown and brake arch for the big tires. Totally pumped! Just an update for folks that are after this fork.

    Sorry for the hijack NB!

  10. #410
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shinkers View Post
    Edit: not worth it.
    Truth.

    As in, yes, it ainít worth it.
    Last edited by Nurse Ben; 1 Week Ago at 07:07 PM.

  11. #411
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    Set my Mas at 140mm tonight and the bean clearance is tight but the cool thing is now I can lower or raise it at will. They should just come set at 140 and lower with a shock pump if needed Also have a -1 deg works components headset if needed, well not quite a -1 its for a headtube up to 119 and the med Wozo is 125 so it will be like a -.90 . Waiting for the rear wheel to be built up but is seems like a Wrathchild will fit (barely) and with the sliders moved forward a bit so happy about that for sure. This is one cool lookin bike, sorry Ben I dig the Blue.

  12. #412
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    Well this bike was on my radar for anew fatty but with the lack of clearance in the rear and kona still canít get it together for this. Off to chromag for a proper aggressive fatty until I can talk the Canfield bros into making one


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  13. #413
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    Still in progress...





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  14. #414
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    Ummm, you do realize that the Chromag fat bike (Nice Dreams) has really long chainstays, 447mm, not aggressive by any stretch. 67.5 hta with a 120mm fork is good, but those chainstays are no bueno! The 5Ē tire fit needs to be seen, 197mm rear hub spacing helps with tire fit, but youíre looking at 120mm B.B., which takes this bike out of the running as a trail ripper.

    On my Wozo Iím running 27.5 x 4.5 out back, not sure why youíd want fatter tires on a progressive fatty. Iíve ridden it pretty hard, tech, flow, 140mm travel. Itís fun with this set up, but itís the 27.5 x3.8 Hodags that really bring out the beast.

    Good luck with Canfield and fat bikes, they wonít even design for plus tires.

    For now there really is nothing in production that is equal to the Wozo

    I suspect the frames will sell out, likely the completes as well, best get one before theyíre gone!

    I still have a large 2016 frame (green) and Bluto 120mm fork packaged for sale. Send a PM for details.

    Quote Originally Posted by Raleighguy29 View Post
    Well this bike was on my radar for anew fatty but with the lack of clearance in the rear and kona still canít get it together for this. Off to chromag for a proper aggressive fatty until I can talk the Canfield bros into making one


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    Last edited by Nurse Ben; 6 Days Ago at 11:44 PM.

  15. #415
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    I liked the green and purple. Blue, red, and purple are ok, just not enough power in baby blue

    Agree on the Manitou coming as 140mm, that makes the most sense.

    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Set my Mas at 140mm tonight and the bean clearance is tight but the cool thing is now I can lower or raise it at will. They should just come set at 140 and lower with a shock pump if needed Also have a -1 deg works components headset if needed, well not quite a -1 its for a headtube up to 119 and the med Wozo is 125 so it will be like a -.90 . Waiting for the rear wheel to be built up but is seems like a Wrathchild will fit (barely) and with the sliders moved forward a bit so happy about that for sure. This is one cool lookin bike, sorry Ben I dig the Blue.

  16. #416
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    Still waiting on a few bits but getting closer.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Kona Wozo Review: 420mm chainstay, runs 29+ to 26 x 4.8!-received_2125140254178149.jpg  


  17. #417
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    I just ordered a pair of Wrathchild studded tires! I can't wait to try them. Any thoughts on how they work on trail?

    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Still waiting on a few bits but getting closer.

  18. #418
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    Quote Originally Posted by GspotRider View Post
    I just ordered a pair of Wrathchild studded tires! I can't wait to try them. Any thoughts on how they work on trail?
    Sorry no real clue yet but if they are anything like the beists they will be hreat.

  19. #419
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Sorry no real clue yet but if they are anything like the beists they will be hreat.
    C'mon man -- this is MTBR. You own it, thus you're expected to write a full review based on your expectations and bench "testing", not on any actual ride experience...

    Sheesh.

  20. #420
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee View Post
    C'mon man -- this is MTBR. You own it, thus you're expected to write a full review based on your expectations and bench "testing", not on any actual ride experience...

    Sheesh.
    I couldn't even spell great correctly (dang old eyes)
    Last edited by bdundee; 4 Days Ago at 06:29 AM.

  21. #421
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    Yup, MTBR is armchair central, so you must uphold the standard to which we have become accustomed.

    Also, when youíre wrong, we get to abuse you

    Also, itís okay to be wrong, it saves the rest of us from making the same foolish choices.

    I can think of a number of early adopter decisions I made that certainly sucked...a fork known by many names for example.

  22. #422
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    This and the "progressive geo" thread got my panties in a bunch and I ordered a Wozo frame. Anyway- starting my build list and going to get a Mastodon - I assume the "Extended" is the way to go - even if you just want to run a front 4.6 like the Wozo is spec'd with.. What do you guys think? Doing my geo change #s now.

  23. #423
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carl Mega View Post
    This and the "progressive geo" thread got my panties in a bunch and I ordered a Wozo frame. Anyway- starting my build list and going to get a Mastodon - I assume the "Extended" is the way to go - even if you just want to run a front 4.6 like the Wozo is spec'd with.. What do you guys think? Doing my geo change #s now.
    Pretty sure everyone has said the opposite, that the extended is not needed.
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  24. #424
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carl Mega View Post
    This and the "progressive geo" thread got my panties in a bunch and I ordered a Wozo frame. Anyway- starting my build list and going to get a Mastodon - I assume the "Extended" is the way to go - even if you just want to run a front 4.6 like the Wozo is spec'd with.. What do you guys think? Doing my geo change #s now.
    Hi Carl, See this post I recently put up on the Mastodon thread. There is plenty of room when my STD Pro fork is aired down and slammed. I tested repeatedly and it still has plenty of room/clearance. Tested with both my Chupa 29+ wheels & the '17 stock Mulefut 80's with 4.8 Jumbo Jims... ---->Manitou Mastodon?

  25. #425
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSH View Post
    Hi Carl, See this post I recently put up on the Mastodon thread. There is plenty of room when my STD Pro fork is aired down and slammed.
    Quote Originally Posted by Swerny View Post
    Pretty sure everyone has said the opposite, that the extended is not needed.
    Thanks guys. Got it - will do. I'm sort of in uncharted waters having not really followed anything about Fat bikes. It's going to take a bit for me to get informed and up to speed. Hopefully I only make fun mistakes.

  26. #426
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swerny View Post
    Pretty sure everyone has said the opposite, that the extended is not needed.
    For clearance it's true, though with some folks saying they want to run the 140mm to slacken up the HTA on the Wozo, the Mastodon EXT could have a use if you want the crown height without the extra travel.

  27. #427
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Still waiting on a few bits but getting closer.
    Looks like a sweet build. Which Nextie rims did you go with?

  28. #428
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carl Mega View Post
    Thanks guys. Got it - will do. I'm sort of in uncharted waters having not really followed anything about Fat bikes. It's going to take a bit for me to get informed and up to speed. Hopefully I only make fun mistakes.
    You are going to love this thing man. I refused to buy into the whole fatbike thing for the longest time, but once I saw the geo specs on the Wozo when it came out I knew it was time. I always thought fatbikes were "one trick ponies" and the Wozo (along with Otso I suppose) broke that mold (at least for me).
    This thing is so versatile (especially if you build out that 2nd wheelset to run 27.5+ or 29+) and is just a shitton of fun. Now that there is finally a suitable, aggressive fatbike fork out there from one of the major manufacturers to throw on this thing it just makes it all the better. Enjoy!

  29. #429
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSH View Post
    You are going to love this thing man. I refused to buy into the whole fatbike thing for the longest time, but once I saw the geo specs on the Wozo when it came out I knew it was time. ..... Enjoy!
    Thanks for the encouragement! I, too, sort of fought this but I'm pretty excited about riding this bike.

  30. #430
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    Quote Originally Posted by david.p View Post
    Looks like a sweet build. Which Nextie rims did you go with?
    Thanks, I transferred most the parts from my previous fatty. I believe they are or where called wild dragons (90mm wide) Not my first choice for a bike like this but it's what I had on hand.

  31. #431
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    Mastodon users:
    So, just so I am clear on this. The Mastodon Comp STD 120mm has a stock A-C of 531mm. It appears that it comes ready and capable to be bumped to 140mm of travel (I assume by removing some internal spacers). Does that increase the A-C to 551mm or just increase the bottom-out travel?
    I ask because I want to move up to a beefier, 140mm travel fork, but I also want the longer A-C to raise my BB and slacken my HA for summer mode when running smaller diameter 27.5x3.0 wheels/tires.
    I have made a Bluto w/ 120mm work for a year and a half now, but I'm really ready to turn the Wozo up and get more gnar out of it.

    Thanks for your help.

  32. #432
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    Yes the A-C is 551mm on a Mastodon once set to 140mm travel.

  33. #433
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    Hey Wozo people... Can you help me with this somewhat confusing BB standard? I ordered the RaceFace Aeffect Cinch BB which is 24mm spindle. I think this BB92 X-Type is the right BB for the Wozo but the only thing I don't see it the callout that it fits the BB width. The strange naming around BB92 and PF121 is giving me fits. Be patient while educating me.

    Here's the BB I'm looking at:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Race-Fa...%257Ciid%253A1

  34. #434
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    Yeah that would work just fine but the tube is not going to be long enough if that matters to ya. Also you might need some spacers for the spindle but not sure how that cranks interface works. I know I needed a couple for the same set up with next sl's.

  35. #435
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    Thanks dundee. Helpful. Yeah, I guess that was the stickler - sleeve length didn't seem like it would be possible to be long enough for the shorter BB shells and the width on the Wozo. If my assumption is right, that really has no bearing (ha!) on the integrity - rather is just that extra level of protection from the elements... then I'm good for this round of the build up. Re: spacers, yeah. I read the RF PDF charts and my eyes went crossed and steam came out. Figured once I had items in hand it's be a bit more clear; at this point, I'm keyboard jockeying and ordering like mad.

  36. #436
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carl Mega View Post
    Hey Wozo people... Can you help me with this somewhat confusing BB standard? I ordered the RaceFace Aeffect Cinch BB which is 24mm spindle. I think this BB92 X-Type is the right BB for the Wozo but the only thing I don't see it the callout that it fits the BB width. The strange naming around BB92 and PF121 is giving me fits. Be patient while educating me.

    Here's the BB I'm looking at:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Race-Fa...%257Ciid%253A1
    That's the BB I used for my build. That spacer it comes with says it should be used for 89.5, 104.5, and 121.5mm shells. The Wozo BB is 121.5mm wide so I used it. No other spacers were needed with the Aeffect Cinch 170mm spindle cranks.

  37. #437
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    I have extended the little tube out of boredom (if there was room.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  38. #438
    Te mortuo heres tibi sim?
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    Like a fat chick taking her selfie from the above angle to look skinny.






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  39. #439
    Te mortuo heres tibi sim?
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    Cable management. Bike is great. X the dropper routing. WTF? In a bike world where most/more and more are running a dropper with a remote on the left side, why the hell did they route the guides this way? I want this same housing stop bolt in the same spot, on the OTHER side.


    Slam it! I'd love it even lower if I could. Like, warranty-voiding-facing-the-headtube-down-to-the-weld lower. With a 120mm Bluto.


    Not this bike specific, but I've had this lock-ring for near 20 years.


    Running this...


    Meant a little surgery...


    For the sweet end result.


    A whopping 40gms lighter, including the bit of dropout trimmed off.
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  40. #440
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    Are you running a running a riser bar with a slammed stem?

  41. #441
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    So Scrublover, I take it the Wozo is doing it for ya?

    Yup, another satisfied Kona rider

  42. #442
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Are you running a running a riser bar with a slammed stem?
    Yep, 15mm rise, because none of the flat bars I've found/seen/tried have at all the sweep/angles/width I want. So there ya go.

    Run the same bar on all my bikes, because I like it, and hey, they are MY bikes.

    Nurse Ben: I have a few little niggles with it, but overall, yes. On-One Fatty-->Fatty Trail-->Wozo. The next step would be doing a custom for the end goal.
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  43. #443
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    Quote Originally Posted by scrublover View Post
    Yep, 15mm rise, because none of the flat bars I've found/seen/tried have at all the sweep/angles/width I want. So there ya go.

    Run the same bar on all my bikes, because I like it, and hey, they are MY bikes.

    Nurse Ben: I have a few little niggles with it, but overall, yes. On-One Fatty-->Fatty Trail-->Wozo. The next step would be doing a custom for the end goal.
    Just asking, a little handlebar defensive Your the one who said you wanted to go lower. I personally have only found one flat bar I have ever been comfortable (niner flats, no logo's so I can rotate em to get rid of the backsweep and make it a up sweep) otherwise I'm with ya, hate em!!

  44. #444
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    Damn Scrublover, That is a sweet build and good looking. The blue looks pretty good there. It took me a bit to get used to my Green 'n Purp, but that Blue w/ red is it turnt.

    What size is that frame? It looks way more curvy, low-profile than my Large.
    Cheers, R-

  45. #445
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    see below

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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Still waiting on a few bits but getting closer.
    bdundee,

    So I have committed to a 140mm Mastodon that is on it's way to replace my 120mm Bluto. Seeing Scrublover's flipped stem for low stack height got me thinking.

    Question: Based on your experience, should I plan on pulling my external-cup Angleset headset (adds 10mm on the Stack height) and put the stock zero-stack headset on so the front end isn't too high? Also, did you notice any significant change in Reach, that might make going with a slightly longer stem worth considering? I'm running a 50mm right now.

    Basically, I figure that way I'll be gaining only +10 when it is all said and done to keep things reasonable upfront for the winter. Maybe throw the Angleset back on in the summer when running smaller diameter wheels and hitting more technical terrain. Just interested in what folks with experience on the Mastodon have found to be a good set-up.

  47. #447
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    Quote Originally Posted by rvercoe View Post
    bdundee......
    Sorry man still waiting on a driver. I am fairly sensitive to a high stack height as well so should know by tomorrow night. You could always hook a shock pump up to the Mastodon and easily lower it that 10mm or whatever you want to instead of replacing your headset if it feels to tall.

  48. #448
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    Iím running a 60mm x -10deg stem flipped on about 15mm of spacers. Medium frame. 140mm Mastodon STD.

    Increasing fork length will shorten the cockpit, but not nearly as much as using an angle set.

    Your setup will vary depending on your preferred body position. I used to prefer my bars slammed, but Iím finding a more upright body position to be more comfortable, esp with my seat slammed.

    Iíd try the fork first, then try an angleset. Too many changes at once will confuse the situation and make diagnosing problems difficult.

    Use the shock pump to change ride height, thatíll tell you a lot without much work.

    Quote Originally Posted by rvercoe View Post
    bdundee,

    So I have committed to a 140mm Mastodon that is on it's way to replace my 120mm Bluto. Seeing Scrublover's flipped stem for low stack height got me thinking.

    Question: Based on your experience, should I plan on pulling my external-cup Angleset headset (adds 10mm on the Stack height) and put the stock zero-stack headset on so the front end isn't too high? Also, did you notice any significant change in Reach, that might make going with a slightly longer stem worth considering? I'm running a 50mm right now.

    Basically, I figure that way I'll be gaining only +10 when it is all said and done to keep things reasonable upfront for the winter. Maybe throw the Angleset back on in the summer when running smaller diameter wheels and hitting more technical terrain. Just interested in what folks with experience on the Mastodon have found to be a good set-up.

  49. #449
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    Quote Originally Posted by rvercoe View Post
    Damn Scrublover, That is a sweet build and good looking. The blue looks pretty good there. It took me a bit to get used to my Green 'n Purp, but that Blue w/ red is it turnt.

    What size is that frame? It looks way more curvy, low-profile than my Large.
    Cheers, R-
    Small frame.

    Stem is a Syntace Flatforce 55mm. Not flipped - they make it that way on purpose! Awesome for purposes like this, or on some of the long travel 29ers with really tall front ends.

    I may toss in -2* Works Components headset and drop the fork to 100mm later, but need more ride time to decide. Today was the first ride.

    Coming off a Fatty Trail frame - just swapped parts over. Me likely so far. The FT was good, but this is more what I was after.

    Have 27.5+ wheels (red hubs/nips to keep the theme) and tires coming for summer use, and am selling off the "regular" hardtail. Garage was getting tight on space...

    Hanging scale says a hair over 29#. Got stuff to tubeless-ize the fat wheels but haven't gotten around to it yet. That ought to drop at least a pound.
    Florence Nightingale's Stormtrooper

  50. #450
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    Quote Originally Posted by scrublover View Post
    Hanging scale says a hair over 29#. Got stuff to tubeless-ize the fat wheels but haven't gotten around to it yet. That ought to drop at least a pound.
    29#'s with 120 Bluto, dropper, and aluminum wheels? That's not bad at all! If you don't mind me asking, what are some of the other builds on here coming in at?

  51. #451
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpfurn View Post
    29#'s with 120 Bluto, dropper, and aluminum wheels? That's not bad at all! If you don't mind me asking, what are some of the other builds on here coming in at?
    30.8 lbs --> '17 Lg Wozo - weighed w/ WTB i35's laced to DT 350's & Chupas, Mastodon Pro Std, KS Lev, stock drivetrain & bars, Mallet E's, RF Atlas 50mm stem

  52. #452
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    Thanks bdundee and NB for the feedback on set-up.

    You both advocate the air pressure technique for adjusting travel and fork height. My past experience with other forks such as the Bluto with the Solo Air (120mm) and a Manitou Tower Pro 29er fork (120mm) was that if I let air out of the fork to ride lower in its travel I would get that annoying klunk when ever I unweighted the front end to manual or over a drop as the fork pushed out to its full extension and then likewise popped back through that initial travel when coming back down and weighting the fork.

    How does the Mastodon compensate for that and remain at the desired ride height or less as it moves through its travel (ie Dual air chambers or something of the sort)?

    I'm sure this will become apparent once it is in my hands, but I figured it would be good to get other folks ideas/experience as well.

    Cheers,
    R

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    Quote Originally Posted by rvercoe View Post
    Thanks bdundee and NB for the feedback on set-up.

    You both advocate the air pressure technique for adjusting travel and fork height. My past experience with other forks such as the Bluto with the Solo Air (120mm) and a Manitou Tower Pro 29er fork (120mm) was that if I let air out of the fork to ride lower in its travel I would get that annoying klunk when ever I unweighted the front end to manual or over a drop as the fork pushed out to its full extension and then likewise popped back through that initial travel when coming back down and weighting the fork.

    How does the Mastodon compensate for that and remain at the desired ride height or less as it moves through its travel (ie Dual air chambers or something of the sort)?

    I'm sure this will become apparent once it is in my hands, but I figured it would be good to get other folks ideas/experience as well.

    Cheers,
    R
    You're not actually lowering the air pressure with the Mastodon. You hook the shock pump up push or pull the fork to desired height and while its in the position you want disconnect the pump. I guess what is does is equal out the positive and negative air chamber pressures and holds it at that travel.

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    Aha! Sweet, I had never had a shock with that capability before. At least, not that I was aware of. THanks!

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    What Bob said, it's an equalization of pressure vs a decrease in pressure/increased sag like other forks. Fork performance is the same, just travel changes.

    And yes, it's a killer fork in so many ways.

    I just wish it would ship with more travel so the buyer doesn't have to take it apart.

    Quote Originally Posted by rvercoe View Post
    Aha! Sweet, I had never had a shock with that capability before. At least, not that I was aware of. THanks!

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    How many mm's of adjustment do you get out of the rear dropouts? I'm asking because I run 85's with 4.4"-4.6" tires and from the limited pictures with this combo I've seen, it looks like the rear has to be stretched to the max. I was wondering what the chain stay length would be running that combo, thanks!

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    Quote Originally Posted by scrublover View Post
    Small frame.

    Stem is a Syntace Flatforce 55mm. Not flipped - they make it that way on purpose! Awesome for purposes like this, or on some of the long travel 29ers with really tall front ends.

    I may toss in -2* Works Components headset and drop the fork to 100mm later, but need more ride time to decide. Today was the first ride.

    Coming off a Fatty Trail frame - just swapped parts over. Me likely so far. The FT was good, but this is more what I was after.

    Have 27.5+ wheels (red hubs/nips to keep the theme) and tires coming for summer use, and am selling off the "regular" hardtail. Garage was getting tight on space...

    Hanging scale says a hair over 29#. Got stuff to tubeless-ize the fat wheels but haven't gotten around to it yet. That ought to drop at least a pound.
    Been an interesting thread. Been on my Boris x9 for a couple of years now (2014) and it's almost always off snow and in damp, rooty single track, so my interest is piqued. I will always be on 26 x 4+ tires. I've been on a carbon fork, mulefuts and a thudbuster with the lightest rubbers, so I really haven't seen a need for front suspension, but I'm open to it. Not been able to master manuals with the 475 CS n the Boris, but that's user error I'm guessing.

    So my questions are:
    1. what is really the largest rear tire we can fit with the stock mulefuts 80.
    2. what does a small stock wozo actually weigh. I plan on keeping the drivetrain, brakes, but changing pretty much everything else, but I can do the math on all that.
    3. are press fits actually that bad, I can buy the tool?

    I've been through the thread several times and haven't quite drilled the answers into my brain. Any help will be much appreciated.
    Dash Pt. State Park (Tacoma), Big Sky Montana during Snowboard Season, Duluth Mn, a couple of times of year incl. Xmas.

  58. #458
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bumpyride View Post
    Been an interesting thread. Been on my Boris x9 for a couple of years now (2014) and it's almost always off snow and in damp, rooty single track, so my interest is piqued. I will always be on 26 x 4+ tires. I've been on a carbon fork, mulefuts and a thudbuster with the lightest rubbers, so I really haven't seen a need for front suspension, but I'm open to it. Not been able to master manuals with the 475 CS n the Boris, but that's user error I'm guessing.

    So my questions are:
    1. what is really the largest rear tire we can fit with the stock mulefuts 80.
    2. what does a small stock wozo actually weigh. I plan on keeping the drivetrain, brakes, but changing pretty much everything else, but I can do the math on all that.
    3. are press fits actually that bad, I can buy the tool?

    I've been through the thread several times and haven't quite drilled the answers into my brain. Any help will be much appreciated.
    1. Can't help you on the tire clearance. I'm running 65mm rim and Floater tire all the way forward- gobs of room. Not sure how much wider i could go before running into issues and needing to move the sliders. I could go wider for sure, but not just how much. I need to experiment with the wheels from some of my riding buddies bikes and some local shop bikes. I don't want/need wider/fatter in back for where/how I'm
    riding, even in winter/snow.

    2. My frame (frame only, everything but dropouts removed) only was 4# 7oz. Not light by any stretch, but not near as porky as some of the options out there.

    I'd be completes have to be in the low 30's range. If you really want a light fatty, you'll either need to throw gobs of money at it, or buy something lighter/carbon from the start.

    3. Nope. Yep.

    No more difficult to put in than a headset, in my opinion. If you've got a headset press, it can do double duty hear. I just use my threaded rod/big ass washer setup on both. Works well, and is way cheap and easy.
    Florence Nightingale's Stormtrooper

  59. #459
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    Quote Originally Posted by scrublover View Post
    1. Can't help you on the tire clearance. I'm running 65mm rim and Floater tire all the way forward- gobs of room. Not sure how much wider i could go before running into issues and needing to move the sliders. I could go wider for sure, but not just how much. I need to experiment with the wheels from some of my riding buddies bikes and some local shop bikes. I don't want/need wider/fatter in back for where/how I'm
    riding, even in winter/snow.

    2. My frame (frame only, everything but dropouts removed) only was 4# 7oz. Not light by any stretch, but not near as porky as some of the options out there.

    I'd be completes have to be in the low 30's range. If you really want a light fatty, you'll either need to throw gobs of money at it, or buy something lighter/carbon from the start.

    3. Nope. Yep.

    No more difficult to put in than a headset, in my opinion. If you've got a headset press, it can do double duty hear. I just use my threaded rod/big ass washer setup on both. Works well, and is way cheap and easy.
    Thanks for the info. Tip on threaded washer a real plus. My Boris came in at 29# before I added goodies, so anywhere near 30 is a go. Thanks again.

    If anyone knows max size on an 80 mulefut, would be much appreciated.
    Dash Pt. State Park (Tacoma), Big Sky Montana during Snowboard Season, Duluth Mn, a couple of times of year incl. Xmas.

  60. #460
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bumpyride View Post
    Thanks for the info. Tip on threaded washer a real plus. My Boris came in at 29# before I added goodies, so anywhere near 30 is a go. Thanks again.

    If anyone knows max size on an 80 mulefut, would be much appreciated.
    Welcome.

    My perception is obviously skewed - you running a rigid fork, no-dropper post build will by for sure lighter.

    You'll save some weight vs. your Boris frame in a direct swap, but if you also want the fit and geometry changes, then it's a win-win.
    Florence Nightingale's Stormtrooper

  61. #461
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bumpyride View Post
    So my questions are:
    1. what is really the largest rear tire we can fit with the stock mulefuts 80.
    ...
    3. are press fits actually that bad, I can buy the tool?
    1. I'm running an Edna 4.3 on the 80SL (108mm @ 7psi) with the dropouts at about 430mm chainstay length - I wouldn't count on wider than ~110mm in the rear.

    3. Install is pretty easy with a DIY headset press (large threaded rod, nuts, and big washers). Have to wait and see if it develops creaks.

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    scrublover, I plan on keeping the thudbuster (keeps me in the saddle more often) so that's a push. May or may not swap out the Bluto with a carbon fork (which I have), but will be going to Metropolis handlebars with ergon grips which add some weight, and heavier tires, lighter saddle though.

    I have a system for going tubeless here in case you're still thinking of it.Using STRETCH WRAP for tubeless. Mulefut rims, Floater/Larry 3.8 tires. Pictures
    Dash Pt. State Park (Tacoma), Big Sky Montana during Snowboard Season, Duluth Mn, a couple of times of year incl. Xmas.

  63. #463
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    Been playing with the fork travel and stack height on mine and getting closer. First 140mm Mas was a little high for standover and stack and 120mm travel felt good in both departments (maybe a touch low in stack) but felt like it needed to be a little slacker. So I threw a -1 works components headset in it and need some more testing but it seems ok. I just wish it didn't have the top external cup that adds to the stack height.

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    Took some tweaking but I think I got it where I need it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Kona Wozo Review: 420mm chainstay, runs 29+ to 26 x 4.8!-23732549_2135603249798516_971897404_o.jpg  


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