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Thread: Jumbo Jim

  1. #601
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lars_D View Post
    Holds up great. I cut the bit in half and pushed it into the drill far enough that only the right length stuck out.
    I may have missed an earlier post of yours, but how deep a pocket did you make? I like how high your studs are sitting in your tires and I'm considering doing this to a set of juggernaut sport tires. Just to confirm, you used a 5 mm drill bit?

    Cheers.

  2. #602
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    I feel compelled to mentions something about the JJ Liteskins. A friend has run them for the last 6 months and had 11 flats on the rear tube and one on the tire itself. He said he pretty much plans on a flat when he goes out and is surprised when he doesn't get one.

    He switched to a FBR and hasn't had a single flat so he plans on a FBF as well. While the tires are nice and light, the weight is starting to add up with all the patches. He also said the traction with the BFR is light years ahead of the JJ.

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  3. #603
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zinzinnati View Post
    I may have missed an earlier post of yours, but how deep a pocket did you make? I like how high your studs are sitting in your tires and I'm considering doing this to a set of juggernaut sport tires. Just to confirm, you used a 5 mm drill bit?

    Cheers.
    1/8 inch drill bit. Depth is roughly the height of the nobs which varies across the tire. Here is my video on how to do it...

    https://youtu.be/OBHdNKajdQc
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  4. #604
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dilligaff View Post
    I feel compelled to mentions something about the JJ Liteskins. A friend has run them for the last 6 months and had 11 flats on the rear tube and one on the tire itself. He said he pretty much plans on a flat when he goes out and is surprised when he doesn't get one.

    He switched to a FBR and hasn't had a single flat so he plans on a FBF as well. While the tires are nice and light, the weight is starting to add up with all the patches. He also said the traction with the BFR is light years ahead of the JJ.

    That is why I am running Snakeskin Tubeless! Will find out how they hold up.

    I have a Maxxis Minion FBR with the EXO protection and I think the tire is too heavy.

  5. #605
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lars_D View Post
    1/8 inch drill bit. Depth is roughly the height of the nobs which varies across the tire. Here is my video on how to do it...

    Thanks for the response and thanks for the video. I'm going to give it a go with a drill press and my juggernauts. I'll post my progress in another thread.

    Cheers

  6. #606
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve_MTB_22 View Post
    That is why I am running Snakeskin Tubeless! Will find out how they hold up.

    I have a Maxxis Minion FBR with the EXO protection and I think the tire is too heavy.
    Been riding the liteskin tubeless here in Michigan all summer. Not one issue. I had to top it off a few times through the summer but that's probably due to a poor tape job.

  7. #607
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve_MTB_22 View Post
    That is why I am running Snakeskin Tubeless! Will find out how they hold up.

    I have a Maxxis Minion FBR with the EXO protection and I think the tire is too heavy.
    Snakeskins set up tubeless are bulletproof. I've been mashing through sharp rocks and branches without a single worry.

    Edit: 4.8s though, but nevertheless; perfect for summer. Light, decent tracktion, very strong.

  8. #608
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lars_D View Post
    1/8 inch drill bit. Depth is roughly the height of the nobs which varies across the tire. Here is my video on how to do it...

    https://youtu.be/OBHdNKajdQc
    The Juggernaut knobs are not broad enough to support a tire stud (measured some nokian studs that I have). I may have to find a used jumbo Jim to try the studding on.

    Thanks again.

  9. #609
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dilligaff View Post
    I feel compelled to mentions something about the JJ Liteskins. A friend has run them for the last 6 months and had 11 flats on the rear tube and one on the tire itself. He said he pretty much plans on a flat when he goes out and is surprised when he doesn't get one.

    He switched to a FBR and hasn't had a single flat so he plans on a FBF as well. While the tires are nice and light, the weight is starting to add up with all the patches. He also said the traction with the BFR is light years ahead of the JJ.

    I'm intrigued - how are some of those patches on the inner surface of the tube?

  10. #610
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    Looks like pinch flats, generally caused by too low of pressure for given terrain resulting in rims strikes.

    Quote Originally Posted by JackWare View Post
    I'm intrigued - how are some of those patches on the inner surface of the tube?
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  11. #611
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    Been running JJs 4.8 and 4.4 tubeless with Snakeskin sidewall on some trails with quite a few rocks with no flats.

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    I have a set of fresh JJs 4.0 snakeskin looking for a good home. PM with offers. Located in WA.

  13. #613
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve_MTB_22 View Post
    Been running JJs 4.8 and 4.4 tubeless with Snakeskin sidewall on some trails with quite a few rocks with no flats.
    I'm in the market for some new winter tires and was wondering if the actual mounted width of your 4.4 is true to the diagram in post #589. I've got Marge Lites and RDs, so wondering if it would fit either as a rear option on a Pugs.

  14. #614
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    Happy to report that the 4.8 LS JJs are very good in the snow. Broke trail in 3-5 inches of fresh, light powder on some steep climbs at Hayden Green Mountain in Colorado, today (if you know the climb at the W Florida main lot, you know how steep that one is). Temps in the teens, cloudy, 3 psi, Mulefut 80s tubeless using the SunRingle strips and tape (flawless setup, highly recommend for sanity maintenance), first ride with my new 9zero7 Whiteout, 28/42 low gearing. Badass. Great everywhere else, even on a new switchback that has a steep entry. Super satisfied. Only stopped riding because my big toes were damn cold!

    Jumbo Jim-file-1.jpeg

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  15. #615
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    How are the 4.4 JJ's coming out for size and weight compared to stated values? i have the 4.8's and love them but i am thinking about the 4.4's on a set of 65mm rims.

  16. #616
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jefflinde View Post
    How are the 4.4 JJ's coming out for size and weight compared to stated values? i have the 4.8's and love them but i am thinking about the 4.4's on a set of 65mm rims.
    4.4's on 65's sounds rather nice!
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  17. #617
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    On the 4.8 inch tires the 4.8 dimension is running 4.5xx on a 80mm Sun Ringle Mulefut ~ 8 psi

    On the 4.4 inch tires the 4.4 dimension is running 4.2xx on a 80 mm Sun Ringle Mulefut ~ 8 psi

    The picture of the tire on my bike is a 4.8 and the 4.4 solved the clearance problem. Hope this helps.

    My opinion is go for the 4.4 on the 65 mm rim if you have the clearance and want more tire volume.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Jumbo Jim-4.8-jj.jpg  

    Jumbo Jim-schwalbe-jj.jpg  

    Last edited by Steve_MTB_22; 12-09-2016 at 03:32 AM.

  18. #618
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve_MTB_22 View Post
    On the 4.4 inch tires the 4.4 dimension is running 4.2xx on a 80 mm Sun Ringle Mulefut ~ 8 psi
    Any chance of pics of what the tire profile looks like on your Mulefut?

    Curious how much rim protection this combo gives, as I'm debating whether to try this on my Mulefut rims or switch to some 65mm rims with 4s.
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  19. #619
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    I'll try to get you a pic of JJ 4.0 on my 65's later this morning. They look appropriately proportionate on the 65's and ride really really really well...on dry. Don't think this would go on snow (edit - the kind of snow I ride around here).
    Last edited by watermonkey; 12-09-2016 at 03:02 PM.
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  20. #620
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    I'll try to get you a pic of JJ 4.0 on my 65's later this morning. They look appropriately proportionate on the 65's and ride really really really well...on dry. Don't think this would go on snow.
    Sweet, I would like to see pics of that combo too!
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  21. #621
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    I'll try to get you a pic of JJ 4.0 on my 65's later this morning. They look appropriately proportionate on the 65's and ride really really really well...on dry. Don't think this would go on snow.
    While they might not be ideal on snow, it doesn't hurt to remember that the fat bike revolution was started by bikes with 65mm rims and tires with basically no tread.
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  22. #622
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jefflinde View Post
    How are the 4.4 JJ's coming out for size and weight compared to stated values? i have the 4.8's and love them but i am thinking about the 4.4's on a set of 65mm rims.
    Bought two LS 4.40's. One was 1128g, the other 1145g.

    Running them tubeless on Marge Lites. Very pleased. Fits the rear of 170mm 9:zero:7 frame well. 4.8 LS on front.

    I liken these tires to Dugast for cyclocross. Probably the lightest and most supple for the size. Work well in soft snow when aired down appropriately.

  23. #623
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    4.0 versus 4.8 ?

    Question for you guys who have ridden the JJ's snakeskin...if you had to choose either the 4.0 or 4.8" size to run on a bike that could comfortably run either, which would you choose and why?

    I need to commit to one size or the other for a build I'm having done...will be running tubeless on mulefut SL 80s. Most of my riding will be dryer conditions (sandy soil, rocks, grass, some trail), with a few snow rides each year.

    Thanks!

  24. #624
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    Quote Originally Posted by Coyotefred View Post
    Question for you guys who have ridden the JJ's snakeskin...if you had to choose either the 4.0 or 4.8" size to run on a bike that could comfortably run either, which would you choose and why?

    I need to commit to one size or the other for a build I'm having done...will be running tubeless on mulefut SL 80s. Most of my riding will be dryer conditions (sandy soil, rocks, grass, some trail), with a few snow rides each year.

    Thanks!
    For drier conditions I prefer the narrower 4.0", just a tad bit faster. If these 4.4" versions become easier to get that would be a nice option.
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  25. #625
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    Yeah I was thinking the 4.4's too, but my builder says they'd be considerably more expensive compared to the other too.

    I think I remember reading that the 4.8s are really closer to 4.3/4.4 on the rim, so wondering whether that means the 4.0s are closer to 3.6-3.7"?

    Quote Originally Posted by EBG 18T View Post
    For drier conditions I prefer the narrower 4.0", just a tad bit faster. If these 4.4" versions become easier to get that would be a nice option.

  26. #626
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    Quote Originally Posted by Coyotefred View Post
    Question for you guys who have ridden the JJ's snakeskin...if you had to choose either the 4.0 or 4.8" size to run on a bike that could comfortably run either, which would you choose and why?

    I need to commit to one size or the other for a build I'm having done...will be running tubeless on mulefut SL 80s. Most of my riding will be dryer conditions (sandy soil, rocks, grass, some trail), with a few snow rides each year.

    Thanks!
    I'm stickin with 4.8 due to the feel and ride. 4's aren't as comfortable to me. I'm not trying to make a Jeep into a dragster either, just rockcrawling and hitting sand, snow and loose forest floor style riding. The 4.8 doesn't break loose as easy as 4.0 and riding pressure is lower for more traction in addition to their already super sweet fatness. My JJ's roll very nicely as well with zero self steer when I air em down. A wee bit more BB clearance as well with 4.8.
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  27. #627
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    Quote Originally Posted by Coyotefred View Post

    I think I remember reading that the 4.8s are really closer to 4.3/4.4 on the rim, so wondering whether that means the 4.0s are closer to 3.6-3.7"?
    My JJ 4s measure 3.9+ on 80mm rims.

  28. #628
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    I have been putting miles on my 4.8 front and 4.4 rear JJ's with snakeskin. Riding in MA/NH area winter things have been great.

  29. #629
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve_MTB_22 View Post
    On the 4.8 inch tires the 4.8 dimension is running 4.5xx on a 80mm Sun Ringle Mulefut ~ 8 psi

    On the 4.4 inch tires the 4.4 dimension is running 4.2xx on a 80 mm Sun Ringle Mulefut ~ 8 psi

    The picture of the tire on my bike is a 4.8 and the 4.4 solved the clearance problem. Hope this helps.

    My opinion is go for the 4.4 on the 65 mm rim if you have the clearance and want more tire volume.
    RM Blizzard? I was pretty ticked off when my 4.8 didn't fit. They made lots of clearance everywhere else, and then stuck the stupid seatstay bridge right in the way.

  30. #630
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    Yes RM Blizzard for me 2015. I went with 4.8 in front for the sand/snow and 4.4 in the back for clearance (and I have plenty of clearance) I posted tire dimension on an 80 mm Mulefut previously. I have a couple of buddies doing the same in front and going with the biggest they can fit on the back depending on their frame. I also run Beaver Guard fenders front and back.

  31. #631
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    I just picked up a 4.0 for the rear, right before the 4.4 came out (doh!). Do you think the 4.4 would fit with grip studs?

  32. #632
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    So you'd be running 4.8s in back too if you had the clearance?

    Quote Originally Posted by Steve_MTB_22 View Post
    Yes RM Blizzard for me 2015. I went with 4.8 in front for the sand/snow and 4.4 in the back for clearance (and I have plenty of clearance) I posted tire dimension on an 80 mm Mulefut previously. I have a couple of buddies doing the same in front and going with the biggest they can fit on the back depending on their frame. I also run Beaver Guard fenders front and back.

  33. #633
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    Jumbo Jim-jj-4.4.jpg
    Picture 4.4" JJ on Mulefut 80mm

    Answering a few previous questions: 2015 Blizzard Size M- My fender is .035" thick and mounted tight to the seat stay crossbar. I can get a .25" wood shim in between the fender and the rear nubs then gently spin the tire. When I go up to a .30" wood shim it gets tight. So the clearance without a fender at 7 psi is somewhere between .285"- .335".

    Do your math on the grip studs. The lugs on this tire are lower profile in the center. Search this string a previous poster even has a link to his method of installing studs. He seems very experienced and did not stud the center which is a loss. My opinion after riding this bike the past couple of years is to use the JJ tires for all around usage until there is lots of ice. Then I would put on a pair of Dillenger 5s. Not sure what is new this year. I own a set of Vee Rubber SnowShoe XLs and although they are better on the price point, I think the Dillenger 5s have a better rubber compound that does not snowball as much, 5s have the self sharpening studs, and as I recall I think the 5s were most likely slightly lighter (you should check those numbers). I was sketchy on the 5s initially because I ride a lot of pointed rocks and was concerned about tearing the sidewall- would probably reconsider as riding buddy has the 5s and they have held up well. I also have another buddy with the 4s which do not float as well as the 5s in heavy snow but are a great tire.

    I would only run a 4.8 on the back if it were light which is why I bought the 4.8 initially that was rubbing. I bought the Maxxis Minion FBR late last year with side wall protection and that tire was way to heavy to spin. That is why I went with the JJs. 4.8 will give you better float but the 4.4 will be sufficient from what I have seen and is a little lighter if you are going to run it all year as a 2nd bike like I do. Glad it turned out the way it did because the 4.4 is a nice option for the rear.

  34. #634
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    Hey thanks...very helpful information!

    Quote Originally Posted by Steve_MTB_22 View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	JJ 4.4.jpg 
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    Picture 4.4" JJ on Mulefut 80mm
    [snip]

    I would only run a 4.8 on the back if it were light which is why I bought the 4.8 initially that was rubbing. I bought the Maxxis Minion FBR late last year with side wall protection and that tire was way to heavy to spin. That is why I went with the JJs. 4.8 will give you better float but the 4.4 will be sufficient from what I have seen and is a little lighter if you are going to run it all year as a 2nd bike like I do. Glad it turned out the way it did because the 4.4 is a nice option for the rear.

  35. #635
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    I am not sure where your builder is looking but the 4.4s are the same $$$ as the other 2. Bike24.com has them for $5 more then the 4.0 and $5 less then the 4.8. Also I have not heard of the 4.8s being smaller then stated by much if any. I am running the 4.8 on 100mm rims and they are huge. I don't have them on now since all our trails in MN are ice but if you can fit 4.8s I would go that route. If not then get 4.4s. The 4.0s to Lee seem too small and didn't ride as well. I replaced the 4s I had with the 4.8s and never looked back.


    Quote Originally Posted by Coyotefred View Post
    Yeah I was thinking the 4.4's too, but my builder says they'd be considerably more expensive compared to the other too.



    I think I remember reading that the 4.8s are really closer to 4.3/4.4 on the rim, so wondering whether that means the 4.0s are closer to 3.6-3.7"?

  36. #636
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    The Jim 4.4" also is a nicely fitting tire (in this case on a Mulefut) for the rear of an On One Fatty:

    Jumbo Jim-jumbo-jim-4.4.jpg

  37. #637
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    This was the review I had read where the measured width on the 4.8 (at 10psi on a 100mm...maybe that is the diff?) was around 4.4

    https://www.bikerumor.com/2015/01/01...at-bike-tires/

    Good to know on the 4.0s being a little on the small side....I think the 4.8s are probably the way to go. Do you like to how they roll for your non-snow riding (when it finally melts in MN?!)

    Quote Originally Posted by Jefflinde View Post
    I am not sure where your builder is looking but the 4.4s are the same $$$ as the other 2. Bike24.com has them for $5 more then the 4.0 and $5 less then the 4.8. Also I have not heard of the 4.8s being smaller then stated by much if any. I am running the 4.8 on 100mm rims and they are huge. I don't have them on now since all our trails in MN are ice but if you can fit 4.8s I would go that route. If not then get 4.4s. The 4.0s to Lee seem too small and didn't ride as well. I replaced the 4s I had with the 4.8s and never looked back.

  38. #638
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    I love how they roll. We have kinda loamy dirt in the spring and summer and then I dries out and packs down in the fall. The JJs stick extremely well on everything. They are also super fast on pavement when I ride to the trails. I have had one puncture but is was the stump of a small tree cut off at an angle. Like a pungy stake so I can't really fault them. Over all I have been very happy with these and the weight is amazing.

    Quote Originally Posted by Coyotefred View Post
    This was the review I had read where the measured width on the 4.8 (at 10psi on a 100mm...maybe that is the diff?) was around 4.4

    https://www.bikerumor.com/2015/01/01...at-bike-tires/

    Good to know on the 4.0s being a little on the small side....I think the 4.8s are probably the way to go. Do you like to how they roll for your non-snow riding (when it finally melts in MN?!)

  39. #639
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    I only have 2 rides on my JJ 4.8's but they roll a ton faster than the stock 4.6" Ground Controls that came on my Fatboy. Each tire also weighs about 150 grams less then the GC as well in the Snakeskin variant.

    This is on dirt as we don't have much of the white stuff here in NC.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jefflinde View Post
    I love how they roll. We have kinda loamy dirt in the spring and summer and then I dries out and packs down in the fall. The JJs stick extremely well on everything. They are also super fast on pavement when I ride to the trails. I have had one puncture but is was the stump of a small tree cut off at an angle. Like a pungy stake so I can't really fault them. Over all I have been very happy with these and the weight is amazing.

  40. #640
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    20 psi I measured jj4.8 LS at 4.6" on 90 nextie rim.
    If your frame can handle 4.8". Just go for it. 4.8" soften the condition mutch better. And they role faster then 29er racing Ralph. I tried. Side by side. All so against 27.5+. Way faster on every thing. Don't remember what brand. They where using tubes. I run tubeless. And tubeless helps with rolling resistance. That was on 1980 g wheelset 80 mm carbon singel wall.
    JJ 4.8" LS is the tyre for me. Make fat biking even more fun.
    Got 2 pairs of them. One pair with almost 300 Schwalbe studs in each tyre.

  41. #641
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    Hey thanks everyone for the feedback...the 4.8s sound like a great choice and what I'm going with!

  42. #642
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    My bike came with 4.0 JJ standard, which were pretty good after skinny mtb tires, discovered fat biking on them. Then I upgraded to 4.8 JJ (liteskin) tubeless+100mm chinese carbon rims and the upgrade feel was huge... Better on sand, snow, everywhere. 4.0 started to feel like 2.4 mtb tires. I have two bikes, one 4.0 on alu 80mm rims and 4.8 on 100mm, and 4.8 rides faster everywhere I can go, faster in terms of time spend on standard course + fun factor.
    But need to note that my weight is 95kg+, I suspect that 4.0 might be better at lower rider weight.

    Had punctured JJ 4.8 twice (in about 6 month riding?), typically on wood branches (or whatever happens to them making then as sharp as awl on the road being ridden over). No problemo with tubeless sealant, just keep going and inflate with handpump if pressure drops too low. Had 1 puncture on 4.0 JJ once too, same wood awl.

    Problems encountered:
    1) on very low pressures liteskin (dont know if snakeskin is different) rear tire like to burp at bead and sealant starts to go away. You can even press sidewall with finger to make air to escape. Dunno if its for all tires or just JJ? Need to be carefull when riding at low pressure.
    2) Front tire washouts on ice (any speed) or snow going downhill (i.e. relatively fast).

    Will try to get 45nrth flowbeist/dunderbeist for a new bike build, and see if the mentioned problems will be reduced. The price differencw is huge though! JJ go here at 60-70 EUR, while beists at 130. So for a pair you need to pay more then twice.

    Sent from my SM-G900F

  43. #643
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    There's a pair of JJ liteskin 4.8's on both ends of my Mayor and I love em. At the moment they are tubed with Surly Lite's and have been highly reliable. I've not been so inclined to tubeless as it makes a tire swap go from 5 minutes to a three ring circus getting that chore done.
    Ice requires the use of studded tires, pure and simple. I tired 4.0's that I borrowed from a friend to test and was unimpressed. My collection of 4.8's just feel better all around. I ride both + and fat with Sarge and Mayor year round cause they are plain groovier than small tires.

    With your tubeless setup, if there's burping from low psi and a simple squeeze, another layer of tape is in order. Bud/Lou do this with single wrap of gorilla tape. A double wrap cures it. I ran the Surly's (Which are the loosest fitting tire on the market) with 2.5f, 3.0r for sand riding and had the burp and sealant leakage. I still have been way too lazy to tubeless the JJ's. Gotta say, I love the feel of the JJ's. Springy and trialsy, indeed!
    They are the cat's meow...
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  44. #644
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    Moved my 4.8 JJ liteskins to 80mm alu rims (non tubeless ready) and tubeless seems to work just great, no air leakage for two hours ride or any signs of sealant coming out of the beads, was using two layers of gorilla tape (adds 100g!) indeed. Was not running at low pressures today though.

    As side effect JJ on 80 rim are considerable narrower than on 100mm rim, differency can be clearly seen when putting two wheels together. I suspect 4.6/4.5 tires on 100mm rim will be close to 4.8 tire size on 80mm.

    BTW have noticed that Schwalbe sealant (same as Stans) on JJ decreased tire internal diameter by few millimeters - it accumulates on the bead base. Removing sealant-grown tire from tubeless ready 100mm rim required use of motorcycle tire levers, no way it could be removed with hands or plastic bicycle tire levers. When installing tire to new rim I didnt removed sealant build up, sticks good and you need less tape at bead base.



    Sent from my SM-G900F

  45. #645
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lars_D View Post
    1/8 inch drill bit. Depth is roughly the height of the nobs which varies across the tire. Here is my video on how to do it...

    https://youtu.be/OBHdNKajdQc
    Lars_D, thanks for the video! I studded my tires awhile back with some stainless sheet metal screws. I had great grip, but it was temporary. I'm not on to find a new method to get carbide studs into my tires, and it looks like you've got it down.

    My question is this: Do you recommend a drop of marine sealant or super glue in each hole that you drill before putting the stud in? Or have yours been holding well without it?

    Thanks!

  46. #646
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    Quote Originally Posted by aflage View Post


    My question is this: Do you recommend a drop of marine sealant or super glue in each hole that you drill before putting the stud in? Or have yours been holding well without it?


    Thanks!
    Unless you want to stud the center row, marine sealant is not required, the studs will stay in just fine. If you do stud the center row, you'll likely lose some studs over time, but I would be hesitant to use sealant for fear that the lug would come off with the stud and damage the tire.

    I had my 4.8 hand studded Jumbo Jim (front is a dillinger 5) out on the snow machine trails over the weekend. I was really impressed. When the snow was firm and the pressure was high, the rolling resistance was low and when the snow was soft and the pressure low (so that the side lugs could engage) the grip was good. Grip on ice was also excellent. I was very pleased.
    --Peace

  47. #647
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dilligaff View Post
    I feel compelled to mentions something about the JJ Liteskins. A friend has run them for the last 6 months and had 11 flats on the rear tube and one on the tire itself. He said he pretty much plans on a flat when he goes out and is surprised when he doesn't get one.

    He switched to a FBR and hasn't had a single flat so he plans on a FBF as well. While the tires are nice and light, the weight is starting to add up with all the patches. He also said the traction with the BFR is light years ahead of the JJ.

    Lol this is why people run tubeless

  48. #648
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dilligaff View Post
    I feel compelled to mentions something about the JJ Liteskins. A friend has run them for the last 6 months and had 11 flats on the rear tube and one on the tire itself. He said he pretty much plans on a flat when he goes out and is surprised when he doesn't get one.

    He switched to a FBR and hasn't had a single flat so he plans on a FBF as well. While the tires are nice and light, the weight is starting to add up with all the patches. He also said the traction with the BFR is light years ahead of the JJ.



    Hell, I haven't had but one flat with my JJ 4,8 LS's and it was caused by a goathead. 4 years I've been running the same tubes with my 3 pair of tires. 2 weeks of riding in the Tucson area which is a cactus factory and not one flat. Might be going back to tubeless but am on the fence cause it does create maintenance issues and tire changes are a marathon.

    That pic shows 4 patches from clydes style riding. The rest from various sharp objects. Yeah, tubeless is a good choice if your haunts are loaded with tire poppers.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  49. #649
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    Seems like JumboJims have become the tire of choise among russian fatbikers.
    But schwalbe's quality control seems to have gotten worse over time.

    My friends and I have purchased sets of 4.0, 4.4 and 4.8s via bike-discount, all LiteSkin versions

    Weights are as follows:
    4.0 - 1120 and 1125 grams (sic!), 1093 and 1091 grams
    4.4 - 1120 and 1150 grams
    4.8 - 1167 grams (sic!)

    Though, I have to say, my previous two sets of 4.0LS were lighter, but requred sealant. This heavier set I setup tubeless without a single drop of sealant, and they hold air perfectly


    ---

    Also, I saw a picture of partially studded tires, but has anyone tried studding cental rows as well?

  50. #650
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    Quote Originally Posted by adam1367 View Post
    Also, I saw a picture of partially studded tires, but has anyone tried studding cental rows as well?
    I love the Jumbo Jims and would buy a studded Schwalbe fat tire if they came out with them in a heart beat.

    I've studded and used jj4.0's, and they're my wife's primary winter tires when there's not a lot of snow. They work great, but there is no studding the center tread, not enough depth.Jumbo Jim-schwalbes2.jpgJumbo Jim-schwalbes1.png

  51. #651
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    So you are just drilling a hole in the tread block and pressing them in w the tool?

    They are the studs w the wide flat and inverted "T" bottom?

  52. #652
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    Has anyone run 4.0 jumbo jim on 80mm Mule SL? Just curious but am guessing the rim is too wide. Any insight would be appreciated. My stock wheels are 80mm width and trying to avoid having the change them to run 26x4.0 in the summer

  53. #653
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    Quote Originally Posted by Averbuks View Post
    Has anyone run 4.0 jumbo jim on 80mm Mule SL? Just curious but am guessing the rim is too wide. Any insight would be appreciated. My stock wheels are 80mm width and trying to avoid having the change them to run 26x4.0 in the summer
    They should be fine.
    --Peace

  54. #654
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    Quote Originally Posted by Averbuks View Post
    Has anyone run 4.0 jumbo jim on 80mm Mule SL? Just curious but am guessing the rim is too wide. Any insight would be appreciated. My stock wheels are 80mm width and trying to avoid having the change them to run 26x4.0 in the summer
    I'd say 80mm rim is perfect for JJ4"

    Ran JJs on 80mm as well as on 60mm (internal). Liked cornering on 80mm better. 60mm feels a bit squishy given the same pressure (or rather comfort level than actual PSIs)

  55. #655
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kirkerik View Post
    So you are just drilling a hole in the tread block and pressing them in w the tool?

    They are the studs w the wide flat and inverted "T" bottom?
    Yes, I have studded them also and that is how it is done. Here is a short video...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBHdNKajdQc
    --Peace

  56. #656
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    Quote Originally Posted by Averbuks View Post
    Has anyone run 4.0 jumbo jim on 80mm Mule SL? Just curious but am guessing the rim is too wide. Any insight would be appreciated. My stock wheels are 80mm width and trying to avoid having the change them to run 26x4.0 in the summer
    I run JJ 4.0 on 85mm HED rims with no problems. Love it.

  57. #657
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    Quote Originally Posted by Averbuks View Post
    Has anyone run 4.0 jumbo jim on 80mm Mule SL? Just curious but am guessing the rim is too wide. Any insight would be appreciated. My stock wheels are 80mm width and trying to avoid having the change them to run 26x4.0 in the summer
    The 80mm rim makes for a better profile for floating on sand and loose dirt/snow. It also makes it possible to run at lower psi without issue. 4" is a non issue on 65's or 80's. There are the folks that like to run em on 47's, ewww...
    Frankly, I'll continue to use the 4.8's cause they ride well and roll very well. I enjoy my JJ's without drama on 80's.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  58. #658
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    Quote Originally Posted by BansheeRune View Post
    The 80mm rim makes for a better profile for floating on sand and loose dirt/snow. It also makes it possible to run at lower psi without issue. 4" is a non issue on 65's or 80's. There are the folks that like to run em on 47's, ewww...
    Frankly, I'll continue to use the 4.8's cause they ride well and roll very well. I enjoy my JJ's without drama on 80's.

    Thanks for the input I appreciate it! First Fat bike for me. I am about 160 pounds suited up, and recommendation on what type of PSI I should be running the JJ 4.0 tubeless with the 80mm rims? I was thinking around 8-10 psi?

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    Start there and you'll probably head lower once you get comfortable with it.

    I'm 175-180 kitted up and it's not unheard of to find myself on a 4.0 w/ 65mm's at about 4psi front and 6 psi back in the summer charging east coast XC pretty fast. Touch more may be warranted depending on roots/rocks but not much.

  60. #660
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    Quote Originally Posted by Averbuks View Post
    Thanks for the input I appreciate it! First Fat bike for me. I am about 160 pounds suited up, and recommendation on what type of PSI I should be running the JJ 4.0 tubeless with the 80mm rims? I was thinking around 8-10 psi?
    Good starting point. You will find a fat 4.0/4.8 to be extremely pressure sensitive. It's unlike skinny bikes entirely. Drop pressure in 1 psi increments and ride between pressure drops.
    I too am 160 #'s so can run nearly flat tires in sand and snow. Mostly running in the 4-6 psi range with liteskin's with no issues. Only flat I've ever had was a goathead in the front.
    Take some time and play with the bike on smooth ground to get a feel for tire flex.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
    Doctor recommended...

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