Page 5 of 5 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5
Results 101 to 121 of 121
  1. #101
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bikeny's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    1,915

    Back on topic

    Thanks to everyone for their hard work and ideas, definitely some good stuff in here. I tried something similar, although I never got it to work right. But, one problem I had was that my sealant would get soaked up into the foam, so I would have to add ALOT. Looking back on it, I think covering the foam completely with the gorilla tape would be a good idea. That way you are not carrying around a bunch of sealant that is useless weight in the wheel.

    That is all,
    Mark

  2. #102
    Laramie, Wyoming
    Reputation: alphazz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    1,479
    bikeny, yeah, you have to cover the foam, for two reasons. The tire moves over the foam easier when covered with tape and exposed foam will soak up sealant.


  3. #103
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    56
    Quote Originally Posted by upmtbyader View Post
    wouldnt gorilla tape over the surly rim strip work well too and with or without the weather stripping?
    Using a surly rim strip thats well seated is all thats needed to go tubeless if you're not going clear. Gorillia tape not necessary from the setups I've personally seen. Granted, these have all been on holy rolling darryls with Surly Nate tires. I've got hundreds of miles on my tubeless setup this way without failure, and this mileage is mostly on very rocky, rooty, trails. Only time i lost air was during a cyclocross race where I was catching 4+ feet of air on a jump multiple times and it burped out some air. I should have ran more than 7psi though for doing that sort of stuff. Ended up at 4psi by the end of the race, but the bead held just fine. Pumped back up and haven't lost any air since.

    I'm still waiting on seeing some internal lighting on these clear strip setups!

  4. #104
    Laramie, Wyoming
    Reputation: alphazz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    1,479
    Internal lighting is in the works. I need to figure out the best way to do that.

  5. #105
    Vagician
    Reputation: EPcycles's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    295
    Quote Originally Posted by bikeny View Post
    Thanks to everyone for their hard work and ideas, definitely some good stuff in here. I tried something similar, although I never got it to work right. But, one problem I had was that my sealant would get soaked up into the foam, so I would have to add ALOT. Looking back on it, I think covering the foam completely with the gorilla tape would be a good idea. That way you are not carrying around a bunch of sealant that is useless weight in the wheel.

    That is all,
    Mark
    Hmm, I never had issues with sealant soaking into my foam even though it wasn't sealed. When I took it apart it was pretty dry.

    Lights:

    Try my earlier suggestion or a similar version of it (LEDs for jig fishing?). It works great, it's simple, and it's pretty light..... Pun intended.

  6. #106
    Laramie, Wyoming
    Reputation: alphazz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    1,479
    Here you go. Lights in the tubeless wheel.




  7. #107
    Vagician
    Reputation: EPcycles's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    295
    Any durability issues? How long does it last? How did you do it?

    Let me guess, wrapped a few layers of clear tape and put some Christmas lights down. Then wrapped them in more tape?

    How much does it weigh?

    Translucent vs transparent?

  8. #108
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    89


    ENO Twilights. If the wire running from the battery pack to the first light is long enough you could mount it at the hub, run the wire down a spoke and into one of the windows keeping the lights inside the rim and the switch/power source outside.

  9. #109
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    56
    Quote Originally Posted by alphazz View Post
    Here you go. Lights in the tubeless wheel.

    Now that's what I'm talking about!!! Nice work!

  10. #110
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    2,658
    Okay I'm almost ready to give up..

    I just spend about 3 hours, trying to get my new Nate (120tpi) set up tubeless but no joy, I try foam on the edge/no foam but nothing work, even using a decent size compressor with the valve core remove..

    For now, they are mounted with tubes in them, so they get used to been unfolded (I just got them today) and until I get a few more hours of Patience somewhere..

  11. #111
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    56
    Quote Originally Posted by patineto View Post
    Okay I'm almost ready to give up..

    I just spend about 3 hours, trying to get my new Nate (120tpi) set up tubeless but no joy, I try foam on the edge/no foam but nothing work, even using a decent size compressor with the valve core remove..

    For now, they are mounted with tubes in them, so they get used to been unfolded (I just got them today) and until I get a few more hours of Patience somewhere..
    Mine had about 200 miles on them before I went tubeless. I would run them for a while with tubes and then try tubeless again. They might be a bit deformed yet from being folded. I've currently got about 300 tubeless miles on them now and still holding great.

  12. #112
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    2,658
    Quote Originally Posted by nlongfx View Post
    Mine had about 200 miles on them before I went tubeless. I would run them for a while with tubes and then try tubeless again. They might be a bit deformed yet from being folded. I've currently got about 300 tubeless miles on them now and still holding great.

    That is my hope, my larry/endo combo was pretty tight to the rim after two weeks of riding, so hopefully time will help..

  13. #113
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    458
    I never managed to get the 120 tpi husker du's tubeless, but 27 tpi larry's worked verry easy, so it might be the tire?

  14. #114
    mtbr member
    Reputation: masterofnone's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,130
    Thanx to EPcycles for the clear window idea, I think someone said it was like staring at a washing machine at the laundromat Lots of useful tips to seat the beads. And the Christmas light setup Holy crap, I'm speechless...Howbout a strobelight inside for the next project?

  15. #115
    Laramie, Wyoming
    Reputation: alphazz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    1,479
    Actually, it isn't quite as much excitement as a washing machine but it is interesting. It's funny, without clear windows I can grab my mtn bike and never think about the sealant. With the fatty, I can't walk by it without looking at the windows to see how the sealant is doing.

  16. #116
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    16
    I have my first attempt setting up. Instead of duct tape, I used 3m paint protection film. It is polyurethane tape. Also known as helicopter tape. Invisible armor is the same stuff. Instead of Stan's, I put in Orange Seal. Once I hit 10 posts, I'll post a pic.

  17. #117
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    16
    Update: The paint protection film is too stretchy by itself. I laminated (stuck a piece on) some 3m heavy duty packing tape. This is working better.

  18. #118
    Laramie, Wyoming
    Reputation: alphazz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    1,479
    juandoe, why not just use duck tape or gorilla?

  19. #119
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    16
    My clownshoe windows are a little too big for the 2 inch tape. The polyurethane tape comes in any size and I like the puncture resistance. I am using gorilla tape to seal in the clear tapes.

    version 2 worked pretty well but some air tracked between the packing tape and the PU tape and the PU burst like a balloon at 20 psi. Next try will be packing tape-PU tape-packing tape.

  20. #120
    Laramie, Wyoming
    Reputation: alphazz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    1,479
    You can get 3" heavy duty clear packing tape. That is what I used on my clownshoes and it works great. I bought mine at Staples. I've done two 4.5 hour rides below zero this week and my ride today was 4.5 hours long at about 10 degrees. I check and change tire pressure some depending on the ride but I never have to add air because of leaks or anything else.

    My rear tire has a layer of thick clear vinyl and then sealed with 3" clear tape to make it tougher and I like it that way.

  21. #121
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    16
    Thanks for the tip, I just ordered some 3" tape.

Page 5 of 5 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •