Hole punch/flare tool for cutouts in rims?
Has anyone tried using an aviation type punch & Flare tool like these to make holes in a fatbike rim?
They say they are good for making holes in high strength aluminum, while stiffening/strengthening the panel by flaring the hole out, creating a round 1/8" flange at 35 degrees to the flat surface. It increases the hole size a 1/16" to have the flare.
You can also get the automotive style that flares the edge even more to a 90 degree 1/4" flare for more strength, but it enlarges the hole more as well(1/8")
I think I may try the 1 1/4" automotive style on some 70mm OnOne rims. I will flare it toward the hub. I think I'll not screw it all the way down at first to see how much flaring the aluminum looks like it can take. If it won't take the whole flare depth I can put a washer in the middle to keep it from going all the way together.
I am curious as to how this would turn out. I have a set of rolling darylls that I keep thinking about taking a hole saw to. I have used this method on some aluminum for the old race car and it worked well. Sadly I didnt think of this option, you have my attention.
I was wondering how well using one of those would work. It makes sense to me because the flaring would help compensate for the removal of the metal.
Looking forward to seeing this done.
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Is there a flat enough surface on the rim to use the punch and die properly? The process may distort the rim, especially if the holes are offset to the rim center line.
I used a chassis punch (no flare) on my Rolling Darryl's and ran into this. I used a belt sander to put a matching radius on the receiving cup.
Originally Posted by TigWorld
Go search "Greenlee Hole Punch", I use these all the time at work for punching holes in stainless steel electrical enclosures and they do wonders. They have many many sizes to choose from. All one needs to do is drill a 1/2" hole with a step bit to fit the bolt from the hole punch through.
I thought about using a Greenlee punch on my RDs, but after posting it here for the masses, the consensus was that the rim would distort due to the curve of the rim and the varying thichness. I ended up using a hole saw. I'd be curious to see if it works, so test it a friend's rim and let us know how it works out.
I made a template out of a small piece of aluminum that I could key to the spokes (my wheels were built) and mark the arbor hole with a center punch. I then drilled a 1/8" pilot hole and followed up with a 1-1/4" hole saw and hand deburring tool. If I recall, I took about 500g off the pair.
Me too, used them a lot in my job.
But they are for flat surfaces, eg gland plates.
Might distort fat rims.... though if they worked it would be a clean cut.
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Some details of the Greenlee punch that i used here. You can just see the radius I sanded into the punch on the second pic.
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That's interesting. Remember the Wright Brothers? They were bicycle mechanics and made and airplane. I think it's cool that we can share technologies from different areas with bikes.
Would probably work out ok if the area to be punched was flat.. Didn't have that option on the Walgoose wheels I just did, as there is a 'ridge' right where the hole was to go..
I would be more concerned with the flaring tool than the hole punch as far as flattening out that localized area of the wheel...
I was thinking that with the flared hole punch tool the curvature of the wheel would make it so the flare was more pronounced in the center of the curve, and toward the ends it would distort a bit larger area with a less pronounced flare. I now see the rims I want to do have an even sharper curve across the rim. I would definitely need to reshape the receiver piece, and maybe the outer ring on the side with the cutter.
Maybe I can find someone to do a nice pattern like the one above on a CNC.
Was that done on a multi-axis machine all at once, or did you have to locate the rim for each hole?
relocate for each hole - pretty easy though, I used a 3/16" endmill and returned the cutter to x=0,y=0 after every cut. Then simply hand jog the cutter down to the rim and locate the spoke hole in relation to the cutter... It's well within a .005 tolerance.
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