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  1. #1
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    Grip Studs in Bud and Lou

    I have been on the fence about studs in my bike tires for a long time. They are an expensive experiment that I was not sure I needed or even wanted until I crashed hard the other night. The 45nrth Dillinger is another option but is expensive, sold out and not moonlander wide. The Dillinger has 240 studs per tire.

    The grip studs are an obscene $1 per stud. I only purchased 100 studs and wondered if I was a complete fool. The studs weighed 65 grams per 100 count and have a carbide core. If they stay in the tire should wear before they do.

    I put 60 studs in the front tire and 40 studs in the rear. They seem to need a lot of tread depth and am not sure I would feel comfortable putting them in my somewhat worn husker du's or old endomorphs. New Bud and Lou's had plenty of rubber.

    The studs go in very quickly and are not frustrating to deal with at all with the exception of being afraid I would drop and lose the expensive little guys.

    I test rode them last night at 17F, front tire at 7lbs, rear tire at 8lbs of air pressure. I am about 250lbs. I rode flat smooth ice, overflow like uneven ice, dirt, gravel, asphalt, concrete, rock garden, grass and snow. They worked great and did much more to prevent slipping than I expected. I will not be ice racing on them but will also not hesitate to ride any ice. I found myself eagerly looking for ice to ride. I can hear them tapping on the bare pavement. None came out or loosened during my first test of varied surfaces.

    Bud and Lou just became a little more studly.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Grip Studs in Bud and Lou-grip-2.jpg  

    Grip Studs in Bud and Lou-grip-3.jpg  

    Grip Studs in Bud and Lou-grip-5.jpg  

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  2. #2
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    Nicely done, do you install them buy hand or use a drill with the tool?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by phat-mike View Post
    Nicely done, do you install them buy hand or use a drill with the tool?
    I used the "4000" tool. It is a hand screw driver with the tip in the pic to fit the studs. I think a power tool would be more work and give less control. They go in with just a few twists. I bet I could put in a new set of 100 in a half hour to an hour and pull them all out in 10 minutes. Super easy by hand.
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  4. #4
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    Love grip studs and those are perfect tires to add some studs too

  5. #5
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    If the studs were 1/2 that price I'd grab 400 in an instant.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by gecho View Post
    If the studs were 1/2 that price I'd grab 400 in an instant.
    we did a group buy with them last year here on the forum, You might want to try and see the interest levels on doing another. They are really cool to work with.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by yxan View Post
    we did a group buy with them last year here on the forum, You might want to try and see the interest levels on doing another. They are really cool to work with.
    I'm in this year. If someone wants to get that going - indeed, start a new thread. I felt like a tool because I contacted them about the possibility of such an arrangement and then never got involved in the buy because it didn't snow...
    Disclaimer: I run Regular Cycles (as of 2016). As a profiteer of the bicycle industry, I am not to be taken very seriously.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by yxan View Post
    we did a group buy with them last year here on the forum, You might want to try and see the interest levels on doing another. They are really cool to work with.
    Quote Originally Posted by Drew Diller View Post
    I'm in this year. If someone wants to get that going - indeed, start a new thread. I felt like a tool because I contacted them about the possibility of such an arrangement and then never got involved in the buy because it didn't snow...
    How much did the price come down?

    Even at 50% off, the husker Du's at 240 studs per tire would be $120 per tire? I think I'd just opt for the Dillinger....

    I can do 240 4-40 x 1/4" set screws for $25 per tire at 40 grams. May not be asphalt friendly, but.....$?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by EPcycles View Post
    How much did the price come down?

    Even at 50% off, the husker Du's at 240 studs per tire would be $120 per tire? I think I'd just opt for the Dillinger....

    I can do 240 4-40 x 1/4" set screws for $25 per tire at 40 grams. May not be asphalt friendly, but.....$?
    25% off.

    Totally understand if you don't already have tires you're looking at to stud.
    Disclaimer: I run Regular Cycles (as of 2016). As a profiteer of the bicycle industry, I am not to be taken very seriously.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drew Diller View Post
    25% off.

    Totally understand if you don't already have tires you're looking at to stud.
    Cripes, I wish they weren't so expensive. This is supposed to be an economy option.

  11. #11
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    Depending on conditions where you ride you'll want to install a lot more studs. I think Yxan and myself are running around 100-150 per tire and I still want more at times.
    The LPG

  12. #12
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    I'm planning on putting these in my Bud and Lou as well...ordered 200 off the group buy. Anyone have any thoughts or concerns about running them tubeless with these? They don't get anywhere close to going through, do they? Thought I'd just try running them about once a year when conditions are perfect around here - which could only be a couple weeks each winter.

    I have Nokian Extreme 294's for my 29er which are perfect for glare ice, but I'd like to explore some creeks and cross some small lakes with my Moonlander!

    Thanks!
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  13. #13
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    You should be fine with a Bud and Lou. Last season I used them on a BFL and a Nate. The Nate was simple and never had any penetrate through the casing. The BFL was another story. The knobs are so shallow that I must have screwed about 30 through the casing. They were constantly making holes in my tubes. I tried to back them out but they seemed to keep screwing back in somehow. Eventually I lined the tire with Gorilla tape just to prevent flats. If Grip Studding a shallow knob tire be really careful. If studding a Nate, Bud and Lou you shouldn't need to worry so much.
    The LPG

  14. #14
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    Longer term review of my grip stud experiment. 60 front 40 rear continues to work great. I am not bombing any luge runs but also don't hesitate to hit ice while going fast . I think the grip studs may sit up a bit more than the 45nrth ones allowing fewer to do a competent job. Not to say it is as good as the 240 in a Dillinger of course but I have no desire to add more. The only limitation I have found was when I had to drop my pressure to 5lb front 7lb rear on some choppy glare ice. As someone else also noted the studs work much better with a little higher air pressure.
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  15. #15
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    Good to hear, Jardbe. I've got 200 to put in my Bud and Lou when I get back home tomorrow. We have conditions on most of the trail I've been riding that I think will warrant the studs and put a smile on my face. Creeks, lakes, and ponds will be frozen again too, so I should be able to do some new exploration I've been thinking about. Will report back here when I get a ride in - will probably do 100/100 or 120/80 front/rear depending on how the pattern lays out.
    Grow some food for yourself.

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    Do Husker Du's have enough tread depth to run these without penetrating the casing?

  17. #17
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    Success!

    I'll put some pictures up soon..but this is what I ended up doing: I put 3 studs in each of my Lake boots and then evenly completed a symmetrical pattern with the rest of my 194 studs between Bud and Lou. I put them in by hand with 12psi in tires set up tubeless on Clownshoes. They went in easily, and it took me about three sessions to finish it after the baby went to sleep.

    Went out today on the Des Moines river, up creeks that run into it, and on the lake at Lacey-Keosauqua State Park. I've got lots of experience on Nokian Extreme 294's on my 29er - and even with less studs, I think these stick better. They make exploring frozen water ways so much fun - opening up so much more to explore. Sand, ice, tons of rocks - this makes for a very technical ride. Can't wait until tomorrow!
    Grow some food for yourself.

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    I put grip studs in a 27 tpi Nate and a Bud. I found the Bud to be much more challenging due to the softer rubber. I have my doubts whether the studs could be removed and installed again on the Bud.

    Nice traction on the icy packed snow today. When I tested it on a rink earlier in the week I found there are definitely limits to the front end traction in tight cornering.

    I put 2 studs in each of my Lake boots which really helped when putting a foot down on ice. They got in the way of my shoe covers so I took them out. I might punch a few holes in the shoe covers and reinstall the studs.


  19. #19
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    I'm participating in an ice race tomorrow so I did some more traction testing on a rink. Excellent front end traction at 4 psi. At 3 psi the tire starts to accordion under braking on firmer surfaces so I probably won't go much lower than 4.

    I test rode the track today which isn't anywhere near as slick as a rink. I had enough grip from the studded Nate in the rear to easily get the front tire off the ground. It should be a fun afternoon, not fast, but fun.

  20. #20
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    I got my Lou ready for the winter, deciding to start with 76 studs. Last year I had 148 in a Nate which might have been overkill since I could do wheelies on an icy path.

    Grip Studs in Bud and Lou-bimg_0920.jpg

  21. #21
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    I found a thread for a Grip Studs group buy from last year but I can't find one for this year. Anyone has seen one?

    Also, for the ones that studded their Buds and Lous last year, what happened when you took them off? Did the knobs held OK with those holes in them or did they deteriorate? One more question, were you able to use the same holes this year to re-stud the tire? If so, are the studs still gripping well to the tire?

    Thanks!

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by pssaenz View Post
    I found a thread for a Grip Studs group buy from last year but I can't find one for this year. Anyone has seen one?

    Also, for the ones that studded their Buds and Lous last year, what happened when you took them off? Did the knobs held OK with those holes in them or did they deteriorate? One more question, were you able to use the same holes this year to re-stud the tire? If so, are the studs still gripping well to the tire?

    Thanks!
    I recently studded my Bud and Lou. I have no intention of removing the studs. These will be my winter tires and I'll throw the Floaters back on for the rest of the year. I think it would be a major PITA to try and remove and re-install the studs.
    Grip Studs in Bud and Lou-img_20131128_113446_326.jpg
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  23. #23
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    Re: Grip Studs in Bud and Lou

    Quote Originally Posted by pssaenz View Post

    Also, for the ones that studded their Buds and Lous last year, what happened when you took them off? Did the knobs held OK with those holes in them or did they deteriorate? One more question, were you able to use the same holes this year to re-stud the tire? If so, are the studs still gripping well to the tire?

    Thanks!
    Pssaenz the studs did no damage to the tire when I took them out last summer. If you look at my original pics you should be able to see that I put them in a slot in the stud so I didn't even make a totally new hole. They came out super fast and went back in great. I don't think I lost any studs last year. These studs stick up much higher and feel more sharp and aggressive than the pre studded tires I have felt. They work great and I have no want for more than my 60 front 40 rear setup.

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    dvn and Jaredbe, thank you for your responses.

    60 & 40 per tire seem very low when compared with the 402 studs in my Schwalbe Ice Spikers 29ers, and the 332 that I had in my Nokian Freddie Revenz. I guess the much bigger contact patch on the Bud & Lou helps with traction even in the ice.

    I might start with 60 & 40 and another 100 later, if I feel I need to. These things are very expensive!

  25. #25
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    So how much did everyone save by buying in bulk in the group buy? I want some studs.

  26. #26
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    No problems here putting them in - 100 per tire. I took them out after winter and can't even tell which lugs I put them in. I think I'll put them in again this week - trails on the front range are probably going to go back and forth between snow cover and ice. I don't think I'll have any problems putting them back in.

    100 per tire lets you ride over irregular shaped icy features - like velcro! I bought them last year in the group buy. Glad I got them and worth every penny.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raul34 View Post
    So how much did everyone save by buying in bulk in the group buy? I want some studs.
    Yo, cuz! I think we payed 75-78 cents per stud after shipping when they were $1/stud before shipping.

    Get the #4000 install tool - that way you can install by hand and take out with with a drill.
    Grow some food for yourself.

  28. #28
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    Does anyone have a few hundred Grip Studs they would like to sell ? Or, might there be enough folks for a group buy ?

  29. #29
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    Group buy 2014

    I would order 200 if we could get enough people for another group purchase.

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    +1 for the group buy. what is the min number of 'buyers' needed?

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by easterntide View Post
    +1 for the group buy. what is the min number of 'buyers' needed?
    They need a minimum of 1000 studs ordered to get the discount, that is how it worked the last time we did it here.

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    I am not sitting by my bike right now but can someone tell me what the tread depth of a bud is? I came across another idea that may be cost effective but depends on the tread depth.

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    I found 7mm tread depth by searching , i don't own any .
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  34. #34
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    shoot....now I'm "that guy" who doesn't know how to use google....

    I'll link the product here in case someone has used it and wants to provide some feedback.

    Maxigrip Mountain Bike Tire Studs - Ice Studs - Snow Studs | Maxigripstore

    looks like the studs may be just a but long? Maybe it's possible to not screw in as far?

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    Climbing Builds Character

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by yxan View Post
    They need a minimum of 1000 studs ordered to get the discount, that is how it worked the last time we did it here.
    OK, I'm going to post a new thread for a group buy since this one is kind of buried under a somewhat unrelated thread name. I'm in for 300 of the product cat. #1000 Grip Studs.

  37. #37
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    I'm going with the Grip Studs group buy thread.

    I plan on riding over a long mostly-dry rock area (similar to a breakwater) at fairly low speed.

    Do you guys think 100 studs (60 front + 40 rear) on Bud & Lou would be enough so I don't die trying? If not, what would be the recommended number?
    2012 Moonlander, Bud&Lou, 780 mm bars

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by streetNslime View Post
    I'm going with the Grip Studs group buy thread.

    I plan on riding over a long mostly-dry rock area (similar to a breakwater) at fairly low speed.

    Do you guys think 100 studs (60 front + 40 rear) on Bud & Lou would be enough so I don't die trying? If not, what would be the recommended number?
    If your primarily riding dry conditions and hard surfaces like rock I would not recommend studs at all, they do not increase grip on non penetrable surfaces, scary !
    Last edited by danaco; 01-18-2014 at 07:42 PM.

  39. #39
    dvn
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    Agree with above! Studs on dry smooth rock will provide terrible traction.
    "Either way it doesn't really matter, I just got back from a bike ride."
    > dbhammercycle

  40. #40
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    Thanks for the replies.

    I was thinking that the studs would "add" to grip and wouldn't take away from it. So, when riding bud/lou with a lot of rubber at low pressure, the hope was that the stud would be "extra insurance" against a slip on the uneven rocks. It seems that isn't the case and they will have to be saved for wet conditions only. Bummer.
    2012 Moonlander, Bud&Lou, 780 mm bars

  41. #41
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    I currently have 693 of these in my Bud & Lous. They work great! And they are easy on the wallet. Next winter though, I'll be using 2 Lous. The Lou has more usable knobbies for such a conversion.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tridentcycleworks View Post
    I currently have 693 of these in my Bud & Lous. They work great! And they are easy on the wallet. Next winter though, I'll be using 2 Lous. The Lou has more usable knobbies for such a conversion.
    Hi Trident, that is a lot of studs! Are you using 1/2" deep screws or the 3/8" version? If you used a 1/2" deep screw, were there any issue where it poked through? Also, are you running tubeless with Stans?

    Thanks
    2012 Moonlander, Bud&Lou, 780 mm bars

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by streetNslime View Post
    Hi Trident, that is a lot of studs! Are you using 1/2" deep screws or the 3/8" version? If you used a 1/2" deep screw, were there any issue where it poked through? Also, are you running tubeless with Stans?

    Thanks
    3/8", but they still poke through the carcass. Not a problem, because I am running ghetto tubless / slpit tube, with lots of Stan's. Nearly 700 holes, and no air-loss.

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by tridentcycleworks View Post
    I currently have 693 of these in my Bud & Lous.
    Is that many studs actually working good/ok on the ice? I've heard if you get too many you defeat the purpose of studs, since they need to dig in. Kind of like the people who lay on the bed of nails... there's so many that none of them actually puncture the skin. Same principle.
    ...Be careful what you're looking at because it might be looking back...

  45. #45
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    I figured contact area. The more I put in, the more the tires gripped. I related it to sanding a surface, for a good mechanical bond. Fine paper makes more scratches in an area than a rougher grit. Just was out now for a night ride (it was awesome), 2" of packy, on an ice base. One off-caber bobble, but all was great. In time, I will save up for Grip-studs fer sure. I mean carbide...So cool! But for now, these are working.

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by tridentcycleworks View Post
    3/8", but they still poke through the carcass. Not a problem, because I am running ghetto tubless / slpit tube, with lots of Stan's. Nearly 700 holes, and no air-loss.
    Thanks for giving us the info. One last thing if you don't mind... How did you install so many screws without going crazy? Did you use an electric screwdriver or hand operated? How did you get the screw to go in straight?
    2012 Moonlander, Bud&Lou, 780 mm bars

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by streetNslime View Post
    Thanks for the replies.

    I was thinking that the studs would "add" to grip and wouldn't take away from it. So, when riding bud/lou with a lot of rubber at low pressure, the hope was that the stud would be "extra insurance" against a slip on the uneven rocks. It seems that isn't the case and they will have to be saved for wet conditions only. Bummer.
    No no no no ! Wet rock surfaces are even scarier than dry for studs, now your just lubricating them ! I think your yank'in our chain here.....touché you got the last laugh, I surrender !

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    Well finally it snowed again after getting my fatty two weeks ago the temp went up and everything melted. Did a 13 mile ride yesterday and wow was a I tired. What a work out but I had a lot of traction issues and may do the stud thing as well. I lost the front tire so many times I actually walked some down hills as I didn't trust my bike. Been off a bike for 3 months and I felt that ride for sure, was -10 forgot my riding coat, had to wear my normal coat which sucks as I sweated right through it and it was just soaked.
    All in all it was just awesome out there and seen three other fatty riders.
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  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by streetNslime View Post
    Thanks for giving us the info. One last thing if you don't mind... How did you install so many screws without going crazy? Did you use an electric screwdriver or hand operated? How did you get the screw to go in straight?
    By hand, with a properly fitted screwdriver. They screw in easily, but the process takes a while, and gives a good fore-arm workout. I had some bad flu over the Holidays, and while feeling not bad during the day, I put them in. not all at once, but about 3-hours spread over a few days.

  50. #50
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    If bud has a 7mm tread depth, a 1/4" screw should be OK. 3/8" screws will puncture the casing per above information.

    Thread-Cutting Screws | MSCDirect.com

    This is a thread-cutting screw at $6.67 per 100. There are other self-tapping screws that cost more.

    I've never ordered from this place. These are short screws that don't have sharp points, so that hopefully they won't puncture the casing.

    Any comments or suggestions?
    2012 Moonlander, Bud&Lou, 780 mm bars

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by streetNslime View Post
    3/8" screws will puncture the casing per above information.
    Not a problem with Ghetto tubeless & Stans! The tips going into the casing, give extra bite, so it's not just the knob they are going into.

    I've never lost studs, but I try not to leave nothing to chance with my rig builds.

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    I have emailed with them, and they response it very soon.

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    Hi all, I came upon a selection of 1/4" (6.35mm) long screws that might work as studs in my Bud & Lou. Tread depth being 7mm, and im going tubed.

    I'm leaning towards these #8 x 1/4 hex heads:

    Grip Studs in Bud and Lou-61343_2.jpg


    Here is the entire selection of 8 different 1/4" long sheet metal screws.
    Buy Sheet Metal Screws At Fasteners plus | Self Tapping Screws

    Which would work best in your opinion? I think screws would work for me because there isn't that long of winter left and I'd like to take them out in the spring without taking off the tires etc...
    Last edited by Kos F; 02-14-2014 at 12:47 PM.

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    Upon studying the dimension of the Grip Studs 1000... Which have major thread diameter of 6mm, quite big! And a shaft diameter of 2.7mm (under the threads)

    #8 screws are 4.2mm and 2.8mm so hopefully they work!

    8 x 1/4 Zinc-Plated Hex Sheet Metal Screw - Pkg 36

    I want to put some sort of glue on the threads before I screw them into the tire so they dont come out. Maybe rubber-like glue... silicone... any ideas?

  56. #56
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    Its getting closer to that time of year again, if anybody is interested in organizing a grip studs group buy, Im in for enough to stud a Bud and Nate

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    Bump....anyone? Anyone? I'm in.

  58. #58
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    The last couple of posts here from Retep are interesting and are something I might try.

    anyone running Slipnot tire chains on their fat bike? - Page 2



    if you search stainless grub screws cusp on ebay they are under $10 per 100 if you are willing to wait a bit.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Grip Studs in Bud and Lou-grubscrew.jpg  

    Last edited by Ohfugit; 08-30-2014 at 07:17 AM.

  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by rth009 View Post
    Its getting closer to that time of year again, if anybody is interested in organizing a grip studs group buy, Im in for enough to stud a Bud and Nate
    Hi, I just found this thread about a group buy of #1000 tire studs I'm in for 200 pcs, are you still interested?

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kos F View Post
    Upon studying the dimension of the Grip Studs 1000... Which have major thread diameter of 6mm, quite big! And a shaft diameter of 2.7mm (under the threads)

    #8 screws are 4.2mm and 2.8mm so hopefully they work!

    8 x 1/4 Zinc-Plated Hex Sheet Metal Screw - Pkg 36

    I want to put some sort of glue on the threads before I screw them into the tire so they dont come out. Maybe rubber-like glue... silicone... any ideas?
    did this work?

  61. #61
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    Putting this here for future searches.
    These are m3x8 grub screws in a new Bud, they protrude about 1/16'
    I switched to m3x10 in the Lou which I like better.

    You can use a jewlers screwdriver to start a hole and to screw the grub screw in. (from the outside)

    I've been on a few rides with them so far and they seem to be holding.
    When testing on sheet ice you could break traction with the m3x8 without too much effort. The m3x10 are better.
    Time will tell long term results.
    ------------------------
    if you search stainless m3 grub screws cusp on ebay they are under $10 per 100 if you are willing to wait a bit.

    The last couple of posts here from Retep are interesting and are what got me started on this.

    anyone running Slipnot tire chains on their fat bike? - Page 2
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Grip Studs in Bud and Lou-img_20141126_175931_145a.jpg  


  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ohfugit View Post
    if you search stainless m3 grub screws cusp on ebay they are under $10 per 100 if you are willing to wait a bit.
    Stainless is a soft metal, if you get plain steel or an alloy (black oxide) socket set screw it will last longer if you ever do pavement. They come in cone point, as well as half dog or full dog. Check fastenal or global industries or many others.

    Good to know the length you mentioned though!

  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by k.b. View Post
    Stainless is a soft metal, if you get plain steel or an alloy (black oxide) socket set screw it will last longer if you ever do pavement. They come in cone point, as well as half dog or full dog. Check fastenal or global industries or many others.
    Good to know the length you mentioned though!
    I'm not a high milage pavement rider so it has not been an issue as they still look good.
    But imo the more experienced input on this sort of thing the better.

  64. #64
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    Just went for my first ride on a Bud with 60 Grip Studs front, Dillinger 4(1/2 season of use) out back. I rode hardpacked trails, glare ice(plowed lake), powder over glare ice and chunky, broken then refrozen ice. I had no slippage up front and honestly didn't notice any disparity in grip on ice between the two. Will compare them on the back within a week. I studded my front Bud like the op, offset. I studded a second one for eventual rear use in pairs, every other lug, 60 total. Ordered 150, the remaining 30 went into a couple of pairs of shoes.

  65. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by sean salach View Post
    Just went for my first ride on a Bud with 60 Grip Studs front, Dillinger 4(1/2 season of use) out back. I rode hardpacked trails, glare ice(plowed lake), powder over glare ice and chunky, broken then refrozen ice. I had no slippage up front and honestly didn't notice any disparity in grip on ice between the two. Will compare them on the back within a week. I studded my front Bud like the op, offset. I studded a second one for eventual rear use in pairs, every other lug, 60 total. Ordered 150, the remaining 30 went into a couple of pairs of shoes.
    I Bought 160 grip studs for the Bud and Lou, ended up putting 60 in each tire and 20 on for each boot (Lake 303). We have gotten over 5' of snow in Massachusetts this year so haven't had the need for them yet. But once spring comes those packed trails will be icy for some time.

    I used the drill and these tires will be strictly for winter use. Will put 5" tires on her that are fast rolling for dirt in the summer, not sure which ones yet.

    -Nolan

  66. #66
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    For occasional ice, I can't see needing more than 60 per tire. The weight increase is unnoticeable, the grip is hugely noticeable.

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    With standard Buds (no studs)... is higher or lower pressure better for ice?

    (edit: this is in questioning my choice to ride the Triple D race this weekend. Below is a recent photo they put up of trail conditions.)
    Grip Studs in Bud and Lou-10478175_10206662673700370_7167158503945516934_n.jpg

  68. #68
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    Nothing but studs are going to keep your face off that ice if you are racing on it

  69. #69
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    Softer is better, always.
    Todd

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    What they said, and on a completely flat surface, the only way to not fall on your face without studs is super slow tip-toeing riding, but it takes such a little angle/camber to cause you to start sliding that it's usually not practical at all, way too dangerous to be out there without studs and don't even think about racing...
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  71. #71
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    So...anyone want to do a group buy on grip studs this year?
    I just got a used moonlander with bud n lous...went out today and bailed 5 times on the ice. Luckily I didnt get too hurt....but it was alot of fun...lol.
    I definitely could use 200 of these but man...they are pricey!
    So hows this work? Whos in?

  72. #72
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    I'd be interested in participating. I just wrecked hard yesterday on my way to work. I'd say for 95% of the time I don't need studs but when you need them you need them. With all the rain we just got, conditions are going to be slick.

  73. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by kllrbee View Post
    So...anyone want to do a group buy on grip studs this year?
    I just got a used moonlander with bud n lous...went out today and bailed 5 times on the ice. Luckily I didnt get too hurt....but it was alot of fun...lol.
    I definitely could use 200 of these but man...they are pricey!
    So hows this work? Whos in?
    So HOW does this work?

  74. #74
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    thread carbide tire studs JX4*4 H12 on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

    11 cents each.

    I don't know if these are a good fit for any bicycle application, so someone would have to decide that.

  75. #75
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    Thnx guys but I already got some off Ebay. Unfortunately, I need these quickly cuz I have a few races coming up.

  76. #76
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    As I continue my rehab from a Thanksgiving morning ride wrist break, I too ordered 200 grip studs from gripstud.com. planning to put most into Lou/Lou on my 2015 blackborow (some for shoes). I see lots of folks think about qty. 60 is fine. Can somebody please explain, show optimum placement for gripstuds in a Lou front and back. thanks much, btw, I plan to get 4.8 knards or Bud/knard come spring. Thanks!

  77. #77
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    My Ice Spiker Pro 29 tires have 361 studs each.

    I know they are expensive, which is why I have not done it, but 60 seems like way too few.

  78. #78
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    Here is my Lou tire with 100 Griptite studs. I went to the larger size 3000B and they worked great.




    Northern NJ

  79. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by rsilvers View Post
    My Ice Spiker Pro 29 tires have 361 studs each.

    I know they are expensive, which is why I have not done it, but 60 seems like way too few.
    60 Gripstuds is not Ice Spiker level traction. Not even close. Ice Spikers grip better than any other stock option I'm aware of. Gripstuds, even only 60 of them, do grip very well. They stick out further from the tire than the studs in my Ice Spikers.

  80. #80
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    Thanks all for replys, Sean, using my recently purchased qty 200 grip studs, do you like basically installing them in the same spots/order as shown by Keleidopete? that seems to be optimum to me for a Lou/Lou. thanks much!

  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatbikenewbie View Post
    Thanks all for replys, Sean, using my recently purchased qty 200 grip studs, do you like basically installing them in the same spots/order as shown by Keleidopete? that seems to be optimum to me for a Lou/Lou. thanks much!
    If you're asking me, mine are in Buds, not Lous. That said, they're in a fairly similar position on the tire. I did pairs on the rear Bud, like he shows, and staggered them on the front.

  82. #82
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    I just finished installing 150 grip studs in my bud/Lou tires. I don't think these tires are the best for studding because the knobs are so soft and flexible. I blew out a couple of knobs on the back tire.

  83. #83
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    Surprisingly, if you get the studs in right though they won't come out. I thought I would have lost a few by now, but after two winters of use both the Bud and Lou have all their studs.
    '17 Cutthroat
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  84. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by paxfobiscum View Post
    So HOW does this work?
    anyone buying?

  85. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADKMTNBIKER View Post
    anyone buying?
    I'm getting really close - just got to figure out how many I really want. Two Buds and a Lou to stud. Sinking normal studs in the wife's Snowshoe XL this afternoon. The last few storms through dumped piles of high moisture content snow - when it sets up, its gonna be slick as squid snot.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  86. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by ak-rider View Post
    I just finished installing 150 grip studs in my bud/Lou tires. I don't think these tires are the best for studding because the knobs are so soft and flexible. I blew out a couple of knobs on the back tire.
    I did not have this problem at all in 250 studs in Bud in Lou, just make sure you put the studs in the middle of the knob.

  87. #87
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    I bought the bit for use with a cordless drill and that worked okay. My biggest issue was the bit didn't hold the grip stud super tight or securely. The grip stud would sometimes wobble and if it got off center to would go in on an angle and blow out the knob. That happened to me two or three times on by rear tire. I ended up using the driver out of my 1/4 socket set to install a number of them manually. I think you get better control with the manual set up. But with the attachment on the driver I had some play at the bit.

    I think I'm going to order some more studs for my wife's bike and get the manual tool as well. From what I could tell in the photos, the bit is the same for cordless drill or manual driver. Their manual driver handle looks like it will be more solid and perhaps my existing bit was a little bit defective? So far I've not lost any studs but I've not been able to ride a lot due to snow conditions being too deep. They worked quite well on ice with around 75 in each tire.

  88. #88
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    I used the manual driver. I can see where you would not have as much control if you use a drill.

  89. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by ak-rider View Post
    I bought the bit for use with a cordless drill and that worked okay. My biggest issue was the bit didn't hold the grip stud super tight or securely. The grip stud would sometimes wobble and if it got off center to would go in on an angle and blow out the knob. That happened to me two or three times on by rear tire. I ended up using the driver out of my 1/4 socket set to install a number of them manually. I think you get better control with the manual set up. But with the attachment on the driver I had some play at the bit.

    I think I'm going to order some more studs for my wife's bike and get the manual tool as well. From what I could tell in the photos, the bit is the same for cordless drill or manual driver. Their manual driver handle looks like it will be more solid and perhaps my existing bit was a little bit defective? So far I've not lost any studs but I've not been able to ride a lot due to snow conditions being too deep. They worked quite well on ice with around 75 in each tire.
    If you are in the girdwood/anchorage area I have the manual tool that you can borrow to stud your wife's bike.
    ptarmigan hardcore

  90. #90
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    I switched from the drill to the manual method after having several studs take a bad angle and blow out the side of the knob. I had much better control putting them in manually. I used the drill to remove studs from a Nate. The drill works much faster for removal!
    Gettin' Fat!...That's Where It's At!

  91. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by farleybob View Post
    I switched from the drill to the manual method after having several studs take a bad angle and blow out the side of the knob. I had much better control putting them in manually. I used the drill to remove studs from a Nate. The drill works much faster for removal!
    hey guys, I put 78 grip studs per Lou in both front and rear for blackborow with manual tool, took about 2.5 hours, placement was similar to above, two rows each tire, in between center knobs row and outside knobs. I thought the manual tool was easy to use and very controlled. Took a quick ride on asphalt and crushed limestone (no snow in northern illinois currently) after getting used to the "clicking" noise, seemed to ride pretty normal. thanks for all the input guys!

  92. #92
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    Wow I just looked back and found that I started this thread in late 2012. I continue to use the original 100 studs and have lost none. I have had them out of the tires and put back in three times and continue to have no desire for more than my current stud count. I love the confidence the studs provide and I still think they are way over priced.
    laotzucycles.blogspot.com

  93. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by Co-opski View Post
    If you are in the girdwood/anchorage area I have the manual tool that you can borrow to stud your wife's bike.
    Thanks for the offer but I'm 300 miles away.

  94. #94
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    Gripstud patterns I used in my Bud's and Lou's. Second season rolling on these with studs, lots of asphalt time, haven't lost a one or torn a lug.
    Grip Studs in Bud and Lou-gripstud-bud-pattern.jpg
    Grip Studs in Bud and Lou-gripstud-lou-pattern.jpg
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  95. #95
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    ^^^ What's the stud count on that pattern? Looks good, not excessively heavy.
    Todd

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    Thanks, watermonkey, that's a huge help!

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    I know most everyone has been reporting that they never lose a stud, but I lost 3 last season and this season I've already lost 10 in only 8 rides or so (I think in total I've lost 4 out of the front and 9 out of the back). I run 60 front, 30 rear in Bud/Bud, but the terrain around here (Front Range of Colorado) has a lot of rocks.

    I think I've lost a ton recently because of powder on top of rocks (mostly 4-8" or so), so as you're pedaling to go anywhere the tire is slipping and the studs are the first thing to catch on the rocks. I have the studs buried a bit deeper than most of the pics in this thread too. I check after rides and I've found several studs partway out, and I've also found that re-using the exact same spot where I've lost a stud definitely increases the chance the new one will disappear.

    I have very minimal studs (they definitely slip on steeper ice or if you accelerate too hard), so that could be another factor. Bigger gaps between studs means that the tire accelerates more before the next stud hits a rock if I'm spinning in snow up a steep rocky trail.

    Despite the insane price I love them, I definitely would have wiped out a bunch of times on icy patches in trees and broken my arm (or my neck!) - but next time I'd get more since I'm now missing 3 and I'm out since I only got 100 to begin with. Perfect for occasional ice patches on trails, but I would definitely want a lot more for aggressive ice riding.

  98. #98
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    Do the Grip Studs add much rolling resistance or affect handling on pavement?

  99. #99
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    [QUOTE=fatbikenewbie;12441615]As I continue my rehab from a Thanksgiving morning ride wrist break, I too ordered 200 grip studs from gripstud.com. planning to put most into Lou/Lou on my 2015 blackborow (some for shoes). I see lots of folks think about qty. 60 is fine. Can somebody please explain, show optimum placement for gripstuds in a Lou front and back. thanks much, btw, I plan to get 4.8 knards or Bud/knard come spring. Thanks![/QUOTE

    Are you guys using the #1000 studs?

  100. #100
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    Thanks for all the input, just got Bud/Lou for my FatBoy, just ordered grip studs so may i see the 60/40 pattern pics, if that is enough i will sell my 150 excess(Mtl. Qc)
    This is for winter only, hardtail 29 other months.

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