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  1. #2201
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    Will do, thank you 😊

  2. #2202
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    I just overhauled my rear hub and the cones are damaged. Does anyone know what size cones should I get for a 9 ball bearing rear hub? I found a few on eBay but all have different sizes. Have anyone tried replacing the cones with shimano? The rear hub brand is Quando, it is written on the rubber seal by the disk brake mount.

  3. #2203
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    metric mountain bike cones are pretty universal. and the cost to get them at a bike shop is pretty cheap. I'd rather spend the extra $2 to make sure I get the right ones than guess. The axle diameter is easy, 10mm diameter x 1.0 thread pitch. Not all cones will have the same length though and spacers/washers may be needed.

    Amazon has a $8 mountain bike axle 10x1.0 with spacers, cone nuts and lock nuts. It should give you all the parts you need to fix it up right.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  4. #2204
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    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    metric mountain bike cones are pretty universal. and the cost to get them at a bike shop is pretty cheap. I'd rather spend the extra $2 to make sure I get the right ones than guess. The axle diameter is easy, 10mm diameter x 1.0 thread pitch. Not all cones will have the same length though and spacers/washers may be needed.

    Amazon has a $8 mountain bike axle 10x1.0 with spacers, cone nuts and lock nuts. It should give you all the parts you need to fix it up right.
    Thank you

  5. #2205
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    Which headset did you get? I thought I got the same origin 8 that you got but fork still hits frame. What size frame is your bike?

  6. #2206
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    Quote Originally Posted by littlereddog View Post
    So, I have an RST Renegade on my GBEM with a 1 1/8 straight head tube with no clearance problems.The Renegade does not hit the downtube. The way I solved the problem was changing the bottom cup on the headset. I bought the origin8 pro 1 1/8 threadless headset off of Amazon for about $30. The bottom cup of the headset is significantly bigger on the origin8 than the stock bottom cup. I didn't bother changing the top cup, because there is no need to. Anyway, I thought I would give it a try. I'm using the crown race that came with the origin8 headset. I didn't have to buy one of the extended crown races off of eBay. The stock one works fine. Here are some pictures of the fork on the bike showing clearance in both directions. Love the fork. Works way better than the cheap Chinese fork discussed above.
    Which headset did you get? I thought I got the same origin 8 pro thredless headset with the sealed bearings that you got but My RST Renegade still hits the downtube . What size frame is your bike?

    Btw, How is your renegade working so far? My brother and I have the straight steerer Renegade and it is a good Suspension fork. My only complaint about this fork is that the lockout assembly under the compression knob is not tightened enough from factory. When it is very cold the lockout knob will seize and if you unlock the suspension the whole lockout knob plus the lower assembly will come loose and it will make you believe that the whole lockout assembly is not working. I overhauled the Renegade last weekend thanks to some OCR videos on YouTube. I decided to tighten the lockout assembly a bit more so it won't unscrew from the fork when the lockout knob seizes and turns the whole assembly insted of just the lockout knob. I also decided to remove the rebound hex key, The rebound adjuster is just a hex key with the blue knob. I don't want to loose the knob.

  7. #2207
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    Quote Originally Posted by Luis_fx35 View Post
    Which headset did you get? I thought I got the same origin 8 pro thredless headset with the sealed bearings that you got but My RST Renegade still hits the downtube . What size frame is your bike?

    Btw, How is your renegade working so far?
    This one:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    22 inch.

    Renegade is working awesome. I'm not having any of the issues you describe. That being said, I don't often lock it out and I don't use it in super cold weather.

  8. #2208
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    Quote Originally Posted by littlereddog View Post
    This one:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    22 inch.

    Renegade is working awesome. I'm not having any of the issues you describe. That being said, I don't often lock it out and I don't use it in super cold weather.
    Dude, that's the same headset I got. Did you use the whole headset with the crown race and everything? I don't know what happened, I installed the bigger cup on the bottom of the headtube and the smaller cup on top and both crown races the black one on the bottom of the steerer tube and the red one on top. The amazon link shows two sizes. 1-1/8 and 1".

  9. #2209
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    I only installed the bottom cup and the matching bearing. I used the crown race from the headset. I thought you ordered the extended crown race from ebay. Maybe it is because mine is a 22" frame

  10. #2210
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    Luna Suspension Fork

    https://lunacycle.com/luna-lander-fat-suspension-fork/


    Installed it and tried it out. Haven't done a full ride yet (hopefully tomorrow) but here is a preliminary ride report.

    The crown is smaller than say the RST Renegade. It will be a close (but not impossible) fit with a 100 mm stock rim. I put 100mm rim on it and there is some clearance, but I doubt the rim with as 5 inch tire would fit very well. That's OK, I prefer my 50mm rims anyway. Because the crown is smaller, it will likely work with the older straight downtube bikes. It works with my Gravity Bullseye Monster, but keep in mind, I have the 22 inch GBM and a new bottom cup on the headset that provides a little more clearance. That being said, I wouldn't be surprised if it will work stock on other GBMs of other sizes. There is a fair amount of clearance.

    It feels a lot like the RST Renegade in both weight and quality. Maybe a little lighter than the Renegade. Seems to have pretty good shock absorption. Works way better than the cheap Chinese spring only fork (I have one of those as well). I'm a novice at best, when it comes to fork set-up and pickiness, I just need something to take the bumps out of the horse hoof prints in the ground, so I can't comment on precise rebound and dampening settings, but it will work for some bumpy trails.

    I installed the remote lock-out. You need to loosen the set screw to get the cable in there. Also the cable sheath is pretty loose at both the fork end and button end. I added an endcap to each and it works fine now. You are going to have to remove your grip, shifter, and brake to install the button on the handlebar.

    The steerer tube is shorter than the Renegade. But, it will fit on my 22 inch GBM with one medium sized spacer. So, it should fit almost any bike.

    I don't have a star fangled nut tool, so I messed that up a little. You may want to have your LBS install that for you if you are particular.

    It has a warning sticker saying not to use it for downhill and hard core riding. I think that's just the lawyers. It seems to be similar build quality to the Renegade. I can't see the internal seals and what not, but I can't imagine they would make it unsuitable for similar types of riding.

    Seems to be a fair amount of oil coming out of the stanchions. I'll have to keep an eye on it and see how it looks after a couple of rides.

    In conclusion, I traded my Renegade off of my GBM for this, and I suspect it will stay that way. My Vinson (my loaner bike) will get the Renegade.

    Hopefully this will inspire a real expert to buy the fork and try it out with a better review than this one. But for me, it's a keeper.
    Last edited by littlereddog; 04-27-2017 at 09:36 PM.

  11. #2211
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    Pictures would be amazing. Some day 😁

  12. #2212
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    Pictures

    Quote Originally Posted by Luis_fx35 View Post
    Pictures would be amazing. Some day 
    OK, here you go. 50mm rim, 3 inch tire Gravity Bullseye Monster-20170505_224950.jpg 50mm rim 4 inch tireGravity Bullseye Monster-20170505_230954.jpg100mm rim, 5 inch tire (not inflated)Gravity Bullseye Monster-20170505_231415.jpgClearance to downtube on one sideGravity Bullseye Monster-20170505_231427.jpgclearance to downtube on other sideGravity Bullseye Monster-20170505_231444.jpglockout trigger and releaseGravity Bullseye Monster-20170505_231452.jpgNote that unlike the Renegade, you can only fully lock-out or have full suspension. No partial lock-outs.

  13. #2213
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    Thanks for the pictures dude. Looks like a good air fork and quick release also. Lots of savings for all non-thru axle riders. Btw, I learned how to service the Renegades, applied new "slick honey" and fork fluid. Super smooth and silent rides after 6 months of ownership.

  14. #2214
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    Tire rub??? where did this come from?

    I have had my GBEM for about a year now and have had no problems with it that I can speak of.
    No major wrecks and I'm not particularly hard on it either.

    After about a year of owning it I decided to treat myself a bit and just picked up a set of 4.0 Jumbo Jim light skins. and put them on tonight.

    Installation went easier than I thought it would.
    Deflated the tires, pulled out the tire levers to unseat one side (almost didn't need it)
    Pulled out the tubes and then removed the tires from the rim.
    Inspected the rims and rim tape (back tires rim tape was a little off center but not bad)
    And put the new tires on in the reverse order.

    I slowly inflated the tires making sure the rims were centered in the tires and there was no bulges in the sidewall.
    I went ahead and inflated them up to around 22psi (because my family was planning on going on a paved bike trail tomorrow morning and I figured why not get a little more efficiency from the higher psi)

    Put the wheels back on the bike, and took it for a spin.

    "What was that?" I thought as I put the pedal down a little.
    I was getting a slight tire rub on the chainstay.

    I took the wheel off and re-seated it in the dropouts and took a closer look.

    When not under load the knobs on the tire just barely clear the driveline chainstay. the stay on the other (break) side has plenty of clearance.
    When my butt is in the saddle coasting straight everything is ok.
    When swerving back and forth occasionally I hear the knobs rub.
    When putting the power down the knobs rub against the chainstay especially with my right foot.

    I have never noticed a problem before now, the side knobs on the JumboJims are noticeably bigger than the Mission Commands so I may not have noticed the problem till now.

    Any ideas?

  15. #2215
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    How much clearance is on the side opposing the rub? Perhaps rearranging spacers on the rear axle/hub or dishing the wheel would resolve your issue.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  16. #2216
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    Re-dishing the wheel is probably an option, thanks for the suggestion.

  17. #2217
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    Another option/upgrade could be removing the front derailleur and front chainrings and upgrade to 1x10 or 1x9(very affordable today compared to 1x11) It will improve your tire clearance and chain retention. Without expending money on a new crankset, just get a narrow/wide chainring. I got a used sram XO 10 speed derailleur with clutch for $40 on eBay and a 10 speed sram x7 shifter for $20. One Up narrow-wide chainring from JensonUSA and a 10 speed chain for $20 on eBay also. Best investment on my GBM so far, the shifting precision is heavenly.

  18. #2218
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    Pictures after upgrades. My white GBM is waiting on a SLX 10 speed set up. The narrow-wide chainring is already installed. My GBM pro(black) which is 170mm spaced as well has a similar set up allredy installed.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Gravity Bullseye Monster-tire-clearance.jpg  

    Gravity Bullseye Monster-tire-clearance-2.jpg  

    I'm boss and I know it

  19. #2219
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    Quote Originally Posted by EvilSmrk View Post
    Re-dishing the wheel is probably an option, thanks for the suggestion.
    Was a thought cause it sounds like there is room to spare on the non rubbing side...
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  20. #2220
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    First real ride with the Jumbo Jims.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Gravity Bullseye Monster-adobephotoshopexpress_b530cff6596149b8a0cce19b17f8b590.jpg  


  21. #2221
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    I've been researching the market for about a year now trying to decide which bike will suit me the best and I keep coming back to the Bullseye Monster due to price, availability, and from this thread, durability. However, I am 6'8" and I was wondering how the 22" frame fits the taller riders out there... I currently have a Trek 7.2fx in 25" frame and according to BDs website, the geometry on the GBEM looks like it is actually bigger than my current ride.

  22. #2222
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    I have read this entire thread since I just bought a 16" Gravity monster LTD.
    I need help on most everything I do to modify or improve this bike. I hope this thread keeps active and that I may ask questions here. Like I said I need help with most things I will do. New to biking, motorcycles dont get me in any type of shape and would like to ride this bike regulary. Not a trail rider but a dirt sandy side road rider. It is amazing on my road that is gravel and sand with a few pot holes. Any other bike was unable to ride on this road. I also notice on the pavement when I do have to get off the road to the shoulder it is very stable on the loose gravel and dirt while I am letting cars speed by.

    Thanks in advance for any advice I ask for.

    Hap

  23. #2223
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    How do you remove the front derailleur?

    Quote Originally Posted by Luis_fx35 View Post
    Another option/upgrade could be removing the front derailleur and front chainrings and upgrade to 1x10 or 1x9(very affordable today compared to 1x11) It will improve your tire clearance and chain retention. Without expending money on a new crankset, just get a narrow/wide chainring. I got a used sram XO 10 speed derailleur with clutch for $40 on eBay and a 10 speed sram x7 shifter for $20. One Up narrow-wide chainring from JensonUSA and a 10 speed chain for $20 on eBay also. Best investment on my GBM so far, the shifting precision is heavenly.
    How did you get the front derailleur off? It looks like it is welded on.

  24. #2224
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    Quote Originally Posted by mehlertmj View Post
    I've been researching the market for about a year now trying to decide which bike will suit me the best and I keep coming back to the Bullseye Monster due to price, availability, and from this thread, durability. However, I am 6'8" and I was wondering how the 22" frame fits the taller riders out there... I currently have a Trek 7.2fx in 25" frame and according to BDs website, the geometry on the GBEM looks like it is actually bigger than my current ride.
    I'm 6'6" with a 36 inseam. Frame fits fine. Add a renegade or other suspension fork, and it's actually almost a little big. You will probably want to get some wider bars to spread you out a bit. Also, you can save another $100 if you buy it off of bike island with some scuffs instead of pristine from bikes direct. Note that the bike island ones only have the 50 mms rims instead of 80mm, but I have ridden 50s, 65s, 80s, and 100s. My bike has the 50s and the rest just sit. I like the lower rolling resistance.

  25. #2225
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    Quote Originally Posted by littlereddog View Post
    How did you get the front derailleur off? It looks like it is welded on.
    Never mind. I figured it out. But not before destroying the derailleur. You have to pull off the bottom bracket.

  26. #2226
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    Quote Originally Posted by littlereddog View Post
    I'm 6'6" with a 36 inseam. Frame fits fine. Add a renegade or other suspension fork, and it's actually almost a little big. You will probably want to get some wider bars to spread you out a bit. Also, you can save another $100 if you buy it off of bike island with some scuffs instead of pristine from bikes direct. Note that the bike island ones only have the 50 mms rims instead of 80mm, but I have ridden 50s, 65s, 80s, and 100s. My bike has the 50s and the rest just sit. I like the lower rolling resistance.
    Thanks, that is helpful information. Touchť on Bike Island. I've been looking at their website that last couple of weeks. I'm stuck between the Gravity and the FB 5 3.0.


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  27. #2227
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    Get the FB5

    If you have the money for either, I'd get the FB5. It has the tapered headtube, so you have more fork choices down the road. Also, it already comes 2x10, so a 1x10 conversion will be cheaper and easier. Also, it has the 197 rear triangle so you will be able to put the 5 inch tires on it later when you are playing around.

    Now, that being said, I'm good with what I have, because I have found a fork that works, don't want the 5 inch tires (again, lower rolling resistance, I'm 250 and 4 inch with low pressure has plenty of float), like grip shifters, so I have to buy new stuff for my 1x10 conversion anyway.

    The FB5 will give you a lot more upgrade options.

  28. #2228
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    tldr: 14" Gravity Knockout vs 14" Gravity Bullseye for short woman?

    Hello! I'm about 2/3 through reading this entire thread. I'm a 5'3" woman (~122lbs) and looking to upgrade my Burning Man bike (and hopefully have a bike I can use for more than just the Burn).

    I used to own a Mongoose Beast, which at my height and weight was just waaay too heavy and tall for me. I stuck it out for two Burns and sold it last year. This year I'm looking for something lighter, but not too much more expensive. I almost bought a Framed Minnesota 1.0, but then realized that the Gravity bikes actually come with smaller frame options too.

    I just ordered the Gravity Knockout since it's supposedly intended to be a women's bike, but noticed that I can get a 14" Bullseye Monster on Bike Island for $400. Does anyone know how the weights compare between the stock Knockout and the Bullseye? I know the Knockout has heavy 3" wheels, so I was planning to, at minimum, swap the tubes for q tubes, and then maybe also swap the front tire out for the Panaracer Fat B Nimble. But that starts to even out the $100 price difference. Would I be better off with a stock Bullseye or would I still want to make similar changes there anyway? My husband just bought the Deadeye Monster 19" and we were pleasantly surprised to find that it 's only a little over 36lbs!

  29. #2229
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    I've built a couple of Gravity Bullseyes. One with 15" frame and another with a 16" frame. My wife fits them both, she's 5'4" 130lbs. The first one I bought from Bikes Direct as a complete bike for $400 (single speed) The second one I bought through Amazon which was a Gravity Bullseye pro frame with a Renegade RST suspension fork for $265 + shipping. I ended up replacing most of the components on the Bikes Direct bike which is why I opted for the frame only from Amazon. Amazon has a Gravity frame only for $100 plus shipping if that's interesting.
    https://www.amazon.com/Gravity-Knock...fat+bike+frame

    If you buy from Bikes Direct check the rear drop out width because I found they very. I would also go for 50mm rims instead of 80mm. With the 50mm rims you can run 26" tires between 2.8" - 3.8". My wife's bike is currently set up with 80mm rims and Surly Nates 3.8 for mud & snow. I plan on building another set of wheels using 50mm rims so she can drop down to a narrower 3.0 tire for summer.

  30. #2230
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    Thank you for replying so quickly! I'm still very new to doing anything other than buying a stock bike and riding it, and I also need the bike to be ready to go by august 23rd, so I don't think I have the time to learn how to build a bike from scratch just yet.

    This is the bike I've currently ordered: BikeIsland.com - Bicycle Parts, Accessories and Clothing at Affordable Prices with Free Shipping It says it can't take 4" tires on the back, but multiple people here have commented that they've made a few specific tires work.

    And this is apparently the wheelset it comes with (and I believe it is 50mm rims): BikeIsland.com - Bicycle Parts, Accessories and Clothing at Affordable Prices with Free Shipping

    Quote Originally Posted by gumba View Post
    I've built a couple of Gravity Bullseyes. One with 15" frame and another with a 16" frame. My wife fits them both, she's 5'4" 130lbs. The first one I bought from Bikes Direct as a complete bike for $400 (single speed) The second one I bought through Amazon which was a Gravity Bullseye pro frame with a Renegade RST suspension fork for $265 + shipping. I ended up replacing most of the components on the Bikes Direct bike which is why I opted for the frame only from Amazon. Amazon has a Gravity frame only for $100 plus shipping if that's interesting.
    https://www.amazon.com/Gravity-Knock...fat+bike+frame

    If you buy from Bikes Direct check the rear drop out width because I found they very. I would also go for 50mm rims instead of 80mm. With the 50mm rims you can run 26" tires between 2.8" - 3.8". My wife's bike is currently set up with 80mm rims and Surly Nates 3.8 for mud & snow. I plan on building another set of wheels using 50mm rims so she can drop down to a narrower 3.0 tire for summer.

  31. #2231
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    I heard that the knockout has chainline issues with frame and tire rub. Something about using a 7 sod with a spacer.

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    Quote Originally Posted by grooveface View Post
    I heard that the knockout has chainline issues with frame and tire rub. Something about using a 7 sod with a spacer.
    Hm, yeah, I know there's an issue with using one of the gears, so it requires some minor modification for that. That's why it's sold at a pretty low price.

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    I have a 18" GBEM and we picked up a 14" Knockout for my wife.

    The Knockout fits my wife pretty well (5'4") other than the length of the stock crank arms which are too long for her.

    The stock crank arms are 175mm which force her knee's to bend too much at the top of the pedal stroke causing her discomfort.
    For many people the solution is to raise the seat height but she did not find that comfortable.
    Once I picked up a set of 160mm crank arms for her it resolved her issue.

    The stand over height for the Knockout fits my wife pretty well, however I suspect if I was to put a set of 4" tires like on my GBEM it would raise the stand over a little too tall for her liking.

    On the topic of the chain clearance, for her bike the chain only had issues when using the largest chain ring, She will likely never need that chain ring so I just removed it from the replacement crankset solving the issue for her.

  34. #2234
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    Ah, thank you for that heads up! I'll pay attention to that and see if I need to make the same adjustment. I'm actually thinking about getting 3.5" Vee Speedsters instead, as from reviews it sounds like people think they're good for beach riding which is pretty much what I'll be doing. I've found a barely used set for just over $70 so I think that's a pretty good deal!

    Quote Originally Posted by EvilSmrk View Post
    I have a 18" GBEM and we picked up a 14" Knockout for my wife.

    The Knockout fits my wife pretty well (5'4") other than the length of the stock crank arms which are too long for her.

    The stock crank arms are 175mm which force her knee's to bend too much at the top of the pedal stroke causing her discomfort.
    For many people the solution is to raise the seat height but she did not find that comfortable.
    Once I picked up a set of 160mm crank arms for her it resolved her issue.

    The stand over height for the Knockout fits my wife pretty well, however I suspect if I was to put a set of 4" tires like on my GBEM it would raise the stand over a little too tall for her liking.

    On the topic of the chain clearance, for her bike the chain only had issues when using the largest chain ring, She will likely never need that chain ring so I just removed it from the replacement crankset solving the issue for her.

  35. #2235
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    Yesterday I actually had a chance took a ride on a GBM again for the first time in years. Man, I miss that bike. Glad to see that this thread is still so active!
    Quote Originally Posted by Optimus View Post
    Hell of a jump, dawg. Even though they're baggy shorts, I'm surprised that you can fit your balls into them.

  36. #2236
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    Same here, this thread is where I started my Fat Bike research. I actually wound up building one instead of buying a complete bike.

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    I'm considering buying the BEM as entry before i decide on what actual fatbike I want. My goal is to sell it before i start upgrading (like adding carbon fork, wheels etc.).

    I'm in WI and main goal is snow fun. Also want to use it for mild MTB on trails (and have 5-7 mile paved trail to get to the MTB trails).

    So far I know brakes, tires and drivetrain are not great.My plan:
    - transfer hydraulic discs from another old bike (=free); buy 180 mm rotor for front.
    - Test tires and either wear them out before replacing. Or buy better tires, but once I sell this bike put the old OEM back on.
    - Drivetrain will replace once it wears out or gets damaged (obviously possible when off-road). My hybrid has 2x10 and i could upgrade that to 2x11 and re-use the 10-speed shifter and derailleur (or upgrade fatbike to 1x11 if easily possible)
    - I will decide on handlebar, pedals and stem once I have it if fit requires new purchase (but this is not expensive)
    - I know before assembly i have to lube BB threads, adjust hubs etc.

    I guess I know a bit what I'm getting myself into. Any other recommendations? (Again, don't want to spend a lot, if upgrades become necessary, I buy a new bike)

    some questions:
    1. did someone successfully convert to 1x11? I assume the hub is 10-speed only. If someone did it, what was required to do (besides replacing wheel or hub)
    2. Is the fork rated for 180 mm rotors? I don't want to tear down the caliper.
    3. Is the MEB frame inherently heavier than the Boris? The Boris have hydroformed tubes. Or what is the "out of the box" weight of the BEM?
    4. the Boris and Sturgis had derailleur hanger issues. it looks like they got re-designed and BD also includes a spare hanger. Something similar for the BEM?
    5. With what you know now about the BEM, would you have started out with a more expensive bike to begin with, or would you use a BEM as entry level again? I see many people have upgraded a lot (to much more than $500).
    6. I'm 6' with 34"inseam and weigh 180#. Per BD that puts me on an 18" frame (5'8"- 6'0"). Would you agree on their sizing? In most threads it seems people often are well off getting a number smaller if they are on the edge.
    7. Is standover height a problem? It seems the steep headtube
    8. With the MEB my maximum loss is "$500+ upgrades - resale value". With a Boris the almost same upgrades are necessary but the $500 is a $600 or $700. Would there be a reason to use a Boris as starterbike? (with the idea to upgrade to a 197mm tubeless ready bike later). they do have a $550 boris x5 on bikeisland (but x5 doesn't exist in black, which i prefer). So the Boris would require to be x7 for $650 on bike island (but would have 2x10 and 180mm rotor). From all i read, it seems all tires on all of them are not great. any reason why one of the Boris tires would be worth paying more? Obviously if it prevents me from buying tires immediately, it would be worth it. i can get Schwalbe Jumbo jim for $85 each. Or get other good tires at similar prices. is any of the Boris tires even remotely good?


    My current dreambikes are over $1-2K from direct retailers. But I need riding experience to know what I want. I considered the Boris bikes. But it seems at higher cost I still get 170mm spacing, non-tubeless rims etc. For me it is either dirt cheap, or something like the Sturgis or even better.

    Great thread, I read almost every page. I searched through the thread to answer the above, but didn't really find an answer. I also read almost every page of the Boris and Sturgis thread.

  38. #2238
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    HerrKaLeun, answering some of your questions:

    - I put larger discs on the front with no issues using a bracket. The front fork seems beefy enough.
    - it comes with a spare hanger, I haven't had to use it.
    - I have a shorter frame (14"), so weight isn't apples to apples. But size was accurate. Mine was about 34lbs if I remember correctly.
    - I am happy with it having upgraded the handlebars and brakes. The 2x system works for the Midwest trails I ride.

    I suspect you are overthinking it. Get the best bike your budget responsibly allows and go ride it. You seem to be knowledgeable enough to have a good idea what comprises you can and can't live with. Simplify the decision by using the 'buy once, cry once' approach. The money you plan to spend on upgrads will go farther if applied towards a better bike. You might be able to sell a GBM and minimize the loss but save yourself the hassle. The bike companies have economies of scale and buying power.

    The GBM is a great budget bike, it allowed me to get into fat biking. But there are real limitations of the bike (straight head tube, drive train, etc.), Those limitations have not detracted from the fun. A better bike would probably be even better. I don't sweat over it.

  39. #2239
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    I second HerrKaLeun. Iíve had my BEM for a year and a half and ride it on mtb trails and SoCal beaches. Iíve been extremely pleased with the bike. It is solid, reliable, and fun to ride. I decided to get the bike, ride it, and make as few changes as possible as inexpensively as possible as I gained experience and discovered things that really needed to be improved.

    This strategy has worked extremely well for me. I have made changes to my drivetrain and cockpit, but I have felt no need to upgrade tires or brakes. The Mission Control tires do tend to autosteer, but being careful to adjust tire pressure to suit the riding surface and getting wider (700mm) bars and a shorter (60mm) stem ó less than $50 for both on sale at Jenson USA ó essentially made that problem go away. I took the time to bed in my brakes when I first got the bike, and they have been fine. They are not the most powerful or most progressive, but I have never needed more stopping power, theyíve never caused me any control issues, and they donít mind being squeezed all the way down a steep 1800 foot descent.

    Most of the mtb trails I ride have steep slopes that are quite long. Both my riding partner, who is 15 years younger than me, and myself found the stock gearing too high. I installed a 20T front chain ring which helped, then lost the 11T off the cassette and added a 38T in back for a super granny that solved the climbing problem for both of us. Parts for the drive train mods were under $90 per bike and I did the work myself.

    I added a low end KS Exaform 861 dropper post ($90 from Jenson USA) which works great and a pair of Wellgo MG-1 pedals ($35 on Amazon), and that is basically it. Every one of my upgrades added a few grams, so my BEM now weighs just over 39 pounds, for what that is worth. With the exception of maybe replacing the tires, which are wearing, with Jumbo Jim Snakeskins, thatís it for my BEM. Iím done with mods.

    I was 77 when I decided I wanted to get a fat bike, and I had not ridden a bicycle in about 40 years. It was a semi-crazy experiment, and it turned out to be a tremendous, incredible success. I now know where and how I like to ride, I know what I am capable of doing, and I know what kind of machine I need to do it. For my 79th birthday I am seriously thinking about getting a SRAM Eagle equipped all-carbon Lamere fatty which J. P. assures me will come in under 26 pounds with 4.4-inch Jumbo Jims, a Bluto, and a Reverb dropper post. Way, way, way expensive, but EXACTLY what this old man needs in his waning years.

    I have recounted my personal experience in some detail here because I think what I have done is representative of one really good way to use a BEM. Get one, ride hell out of the thing, and wait until you really, really dislike something before you upgrade it using as little cash and as much brains as possible. Hold off on the big bucks until you truly understand what you need. At some point you will know.

    And, if you read this forum, which you have, you should understand that it is pretty hard to regret getting a BEM.

  40. #2240
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Geezer View Post
    This strategy has worked extremely well for me. I have made changes to my drivetrain and cockpit, but I have felt no need to upgrade tires or brakes. The Mission Control tires do tend to autosteer, but being careful to adjust tire pressure to suit the riding surface and getting wider (700mm) bars and a shorter (60mm) stem ó less than $50 for both on sale at Jenson USA ó essentially made that problem go away. I took the time to bed in my brakes when I first got the bike, and they have been fine. They are not the most powerful or most progressive, but I have never needed more stopping power, theyíve never caused me any control issues, and they donít mind being squeezed all the way down a steep 1800 foot descent.

    I added a low end KS Exaform 861 dropper post ($90 from Jenson USA) which works great and a pair of Wellgo MG-1 pedals ($35 on Amazon), and that is basically it. Every one of my upgrades added a few grams, so my BEM now weighs just over 39 pounds, for what that is worth. With the exception of maybe replacing the tires, which are wearing, with Jumbo Jim Snakeskins, thatís it for my BEM. Iím done with mods.

    I was 77 when I decided I wanted to get a fat bike, and I had not ridden a bicycle in about 40 years. It was a semi-crazy experiment, and it turned out to be a tremendous, incredible success. I now know where and how I like to ride, I know what I am capable of doing, and I know what kind of machine I need to do it. For my 79th birthday I am seriously thinking about getting a SRAM Eagle equipped all-carbon Lamere fatty which J. P. assures me will come in under 26 pounds with 4.4-inch Jumbo Jims, a Bluto, and a Reverb dropper post. Way, way, way expensive, but EXACTLY what this old man needs in his waning years.

    And, if you read this forum, which you have, you should understand that it is pretty hard to regret getting a BEM.
    You made some very sensible upgrades and should be able to re-use most on a new bike. So more an investment in biking than the bike itself. I myself fully count on needing grips saddle (Brooks B17 guy) and possibly pedals... but will keep the OEM parts in a box for the time I sell it. They now come with 700mm handlebar, so I should not need a new handlebar.

    since you brought up carbon fat bikes. i came across the direct sale Canyon Dude. Not available before October (I called). no direct experience with it, but thought you might check it out since you talked about going carbon.

  41. #2241
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    The Dude CF 9.0 EX is a nice bike for $3,600 bucks, but the 1x11 Shimano with a 28T up front would not work for me, and the DT Swiss aluminum wheelset is almost a pound and a half heavier than Lamere's 65mm carbon wheels with Tune hubs.

    Lamere has a limited set of proprietary carbon framesets, forks, and wheels, but J. P. works with every customer and custom builds the bike so it comes from his shop EXACTLY the way you want it. He will even ship the bike I am thinking about getting tubeless (with Orange Seal tape and sealant) and do a way better job of it than I ever could. If you go to his website (https://www.lamerecycles.com) and look at the gallery, you will see that almost no two bikes he has built are exactly the same. So, if you know exactly what you want, that is exactly what is inside the box when you open it. No swapping out this or that that is not quite right, blah, blah blah. I'm at the stage of life where this model for doing business has a lot of appeal. What am I going to do with the $6K+ when I'm dead in 20 years of so? Mountain biking a fatty is pretty much my only nasty habit.

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