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Thread: Gearing ?

  1. #1
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    Gearing ?

    Was lucky enough to take a pugsley out on a 8.7 mi ride with 1100 ft elevation change most of which was in two areas... Which leads me to my question

    What gearing are you all running?
    I quickly noticed the weight difference from my el santo 10+ lbs), that and it seemed to be geared a little higher....
    (Had surly tires 4.0", marge lite wheels. Honestly I'm just back to the sport and am looking into getting a fattie)

    What are you all typically running? Is this normal or am I (as I'm expecting) a big wussie?

    Thanks in advance!



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  2. #2
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    I am in Colorado and have only been here 5 months. I moved here from Texas, so I am NOT used to climbing. A typical ride for me is 10-20 miles and 2000-3000ft of climbing. I got rid of the 22/32/44t w/ 9 speed 11-32 cassette and replaced it with a 24/34 w/ 10-speed 10-36 cassette (With SRAM X9 rear d medium cage). I rarely ever used the big ring so ditched it. I found that high speed downhill is limited on my bike because of the BB7 mechanicals, so I do a lot of coasting when going downhill. I really like my set up, and am even thinking of going with a 36t ring. I switch to the granny for climbs and use the big ring for flat/downhill and short climbs. Keeps it simple for me, I found having three chain rings complicated which one to put it in and the 22t was just too small.

    The biggest difference I find with my Pugsley and other mountain bikes is the rotational mass. Tires make a big difference too. The Larry/Endomorph combo in most older Pugsleys are complete junk.

    You're definately not going to set any speed records with the Pugsley. I know that when I ride it. It's my low maintenance adventuring (I'm training for CTR) rig. I have another bike for getting semi-rad.

  3. #3
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    Gearing ?

    Appreciate the input! The pugs I was able to ride had the endomorph/Larry combo. Think it was a the stock gearing you mentioned. Wasn't sure if there was a 9spd set up to use or if I would need to go to a 10.



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  4. #4
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    My guess is that it did have the stock gearing. Most people don't seem to do those kind of modifications on a bike that new.

    My biggest problem with the stock setup was the thumbie shifters. Riding the bike like a true mountain bike didn't work well with the thumbies for me. Instead of buying 9 speed trigger shifters, I just decided to replace most of the drivetrain. Also like I mentioned, to get rid of the triple setup I didn't like.

    There were other things that I replaced first, that were more important. Putting wide bars and short stem was first, getting rid of the Endormorph was second. I put on a 45NRTH Escalator. Then I did the drivetrain change. Today I bought a Husker DU and put that on the rear and moved the Escalator to the front).

  5. #5
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    Gearing ?

    Looking at upgrades needed so I appreciate your insight!


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  6. #6
    Elitest thrill junkie
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    32t ring with an 11-28 cassette. I've done several 35+ mile rides on it with 3000+ vertical. You kind of need that gearing and to ride it like a SS to actually go anywhere, haha. Otherwise you pedal a lot, but you don't actually move. I basically stand the whole time.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  7. #7
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    Gearing ?-32x23fatbike.png

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    26/36 with a 11-36 10 speed cassette.

    Rides are normally 10-30 miles, with anywhere between 1,000-3,000 ft of climbing, depending where we're riding.

    The 26 really comes in handy in the white stuff when you just want to sit and spin to maintain traction, or if I'm on a slower-paced ride.

    For comparison, my 29er is setup 1x9 with a 36T ring and 11-34 cassette. Need a lil more gearing with the fatty to compensate for the extra wheel weight.
    Oh noes. I'm going to drink the Kool-Aid.

  9. #9
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    Well, I'm not an expert on the subject. However, on a single speed 29er I ran a 32 X 18. On my heckler, I ran a 2X9. On the last fully geared 29er I owned i ran a 1X9. The only time I used big ring was on a Road or CX bike.

    This is my first fat bike, I can't see changing from what I've known to work in the past. So, my fat bike will also be a 2X9

  10. #10
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    I was running a 20 X 33 with an 11-34 cassette on my Moonlander. I just installed a 12-36 cassette and on my last ride I was still trying to shift into a gear lower than what I had. I almost never use the larger front ring.

    Gearing is all about where, what, and how you ride.
    Riding Fat and still just as fast as I never was.

  11. #11
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    Rohloff. Nuff said.

    Gearing ?-image.jpg

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by wildmedvt View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image.jpg 
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ID:	838804
    I think the OP was talking about very low gears.
    Riding Fat and still just as fast as I never was.

  13. #13
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    Excellent point...I have found that a 34t front ring pairs nicely with the Rohloff to allow for a lower R1 and better climbing and slow mo snow riding. Cheers!

  14. #14
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    Gearing ?

    Yes sir, lower gearing is my thought, and it appears that there are a few options out there.
    I'm partly thinking to compensate for the fact that I'm not the strongest rider and HATE having to push...

    Anyone looked into a 20t front sprocket?


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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rcksqrl View Post
    Yes sir, lower gearing is my thought, and it appears that there are a few options out there.
    I'm partly thinking to compensate for the fact that I'm not the strongest rider and HATE having to push...

    Anyone looked into a 20t front sprocket?


    Sent from magic wish granting phone
    I think with the existing fat cranks the lowest easily obtainable gear would be a 20 front and 36 back. I'm not familiar enough with the +36 tooth rear clusters to know if they work with the normal front cranks.
    Riding Fat and still just as fast as I never was.

  16. #16
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    I have a 20t front (biggest rear is 32). Seems to work okay in the soft stuff.
    --Peace

  17. #17
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    Gearing ?

    Rohloff hub... I guess I'm confused a bit. Understand the internal gear but I'm confused to what gearing it actually gets ya. Ratios and gear inches lose me......

    As I'm looking for lower gearing are these a viable option? Or more for higher speeds?

    Thanks again!


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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rcksqrl View Post
    Rohloff hub... I guess I'm confused a bit. Understand the internal gear but I'm confused to what gearing it actually gets ya. Ratios and gear inches lose me......

    As I'm looking for lower gearing are these a viable option? Or more for higher speeds?

    Thanks again!


    Sent from magic wish granting phone
    According to the Sheldon Brown site, the lowest allowable gear you can get with the Rohloff is equal to a 22 X 32, so not as low as conventional gears (or as cheap).
    Riding Fat and still just as fast as I never was.

  19. #19
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    Gearing ?

    Yeah price is crazy high!


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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rcksqrl View Post
    Rohloff hub... I guess I'm confused a bit. Understand the internal gear but I'm confused to what gearing it actually gets ya. Ratios and gear inches lose me......
    Don't feel to overwhelmed you don't need to understand what a 'gear inch' is just compare the numbers to something your familiar with.

    Say a regular 26" MTB running (2x10) 26T/39T 11-36

    Gearing ?-26er-26t-39t-11-36.png

    Now you can compare that to a fatbike (we use gear inches as simply comparing cogs and chainrings doesn't account for cranks/wheel size) say crashtestdummy's running (2x10) 20T/33T 11-34

    Gearing ?-fatbike-20t-33t-11-34.png

    Now we can look at a fatbike running (Rohloff) 34T x 16

    Gearing ?-rohloff-34x16.jpg

    As you can see there really is not much difference in the high and low gear's of all these 3 setups.

    You can really get rid of a lot of your high gears on a fatbike, I imagine crashtestdummy rarely spends time in the 33T x 11 except for maybe going downhill on tarmac ;-)

    I'm quite happy with the short range that my alfine8 offers low:21.3 high:65.2 it's no where near the range of a rohloff or a regular 2x10 setup but I don't need the high end and if I can't manage the low end I should get off my ass or walk!

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by OFFcourse View Post


    You can really get rid of a lot of your high gears on a fatbike, I imagine crashtestdummy rarely spends time in the 33T x 11 except for maybe going downhill on tarmac ;-)

    My 33 X 11 gets used all the time when I'm tuning the bike on the stand. In real life, I'm not sure that I've ever used it. Maybe once going downhill on a paved bike path. I also ride with my dogs, so going fast is never on my menu.
    Riding Fat and still just as fast as I never was.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by crashtestdummy View Post
    According to the Sheldon Brown site, the lowest allowable gear you can get with the Rohloff is equal to a 22 X 32, so not as low as conventional gears (or as cheap).
    Rohloff say 2.1 Sheldon Brown says 2.4, I would argue that you can get as low as conventional gears.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by OFFcourse View Post
    Rohloff say 2.1 Sheldon Brown says 2.4, I would argue that you can get as low as conventional gears.
    Sheldon Brown's site may be old info. I would certainly go with what Rohloff says.
    Riding Fat and still just as fast as I never was.

  24. #24
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    1x9 36 ring 11-32 cassette in the summer, throw on a 22 ring as well for winter or loaded touring, sometimes granny is great.


    "You're like a Ferrari engine driving a dump truck"

  25. #25
    dvn
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    I'm running 1x10 with a 30T N/W and General Lee out back. So far, so good.
    "Either way it doesn't really matter, I just got back from a bike ride."
    > dbhammercycle

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