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  1. #1
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    Front hub dynamo for a fat bike?

    I read this post the other day and it got me thinking

    Mountain Bike Dynamo Light!

    I havent tried riding at night in the desert yet on the Moonlander but will soon. It makes sense to avoid the brutal sun of the daylight. For some of the multiday trips it would be urber cool to be able to travel at night without the hassle of batteries.

    But obviously a fat bike front hub dynamo is going to be URBER niche.........isnt it?


  2. #2
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    I haven't found an easy way to make a 135mm front dynamo wheel. I gave up and used a Shimano 3D71 hub I already owned and laced it to an offset Large Marge rim I already owned. All I had to buy was 32 spokes and a 100mm Pugsley fork, ~$110.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by pursuiter View Post
    I haven't found an easy way to make a 135mm front dynamo wheel. I gave up and used a Shimano 3D71 hub I already owned and laced it to an offset Large Marge rim I already owned. All I had to buy was 32 spokes and a 100mm Pugsley fork, ~$110.
    sounds like a good combo know anyone wanting a NIB pug fork??

  4. #4
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    Dont think I'd get my BFLs on Clownshoes into a 100mm fork

  5. #5
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    Originally Posted by robdeanhove View Post
    Yes there is! No-one makes a 135mm dynamo hub (that I know of), but you can purchase a bolt on solution, designed for the non-drive side of your rear wheel. This may be able to be made to work with the non-disc side of your front wheel.

    It's called the Sunup Eco DS-1R Spoke Dynamo, you can buy it from IDC on eBay, the link is HERE
    Just had this posted on the other thread by Rob in response to my question

    Any ideas if this could work?

  6. #6
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    Looking at the installation video, I would not expect it to be disc-brake-compatible.
    sunupeco.com/SunUpEco/Installation.html

  7. #7
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    I wonder if anyone still makes a roller dynamo that mounts right below the bottom bracket (I think) and rolls along the outside of the rear wheel? I have never seen one, and imagine that it might cause problems if you take your bike through any sticky, wet areas, and it seems like if you have a fat bike, that is likely.

    The other thing I thought of when exploring this idea was that a normal, old, bottle dynamo would probably work as well. It also might get gummed up when riding through slop, but I think some bottle dynamos have rubber rings that can be added to the rolling portion so that the dynamo can roll along the rim, rather than the rubber of the tire. That might keep it free from gunk, although it would be vulnerable to any branches that might swipe up against the sides of your bike.

    A hub dynamo seems like the best way to go on a mountain bike, but I don't know of a 135 version.

  8. #8
    Frt Range, CO
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    I was trying to figure a way to add a dyno to the freehub of a rear hub but gave up. Maybe an adapter along the lines of the Mukluk 135mm to 170mm adapter would allow a 100mm frt dyno hub to fit a 135mm fork?

  9. #9
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    I've asked the question over on the DIY lights forum and as well as the info from Rob above there is also this

    Quote Originally Posted by robdeanhove View Post
    I'd recommend getting the Exposure Lights dynamo, which I believe is significantly upgraded from the prototype shown at the London Bike Show in January, when it's available to buy later this summer ;-)
    And

    Quote Originally Posted by ktronik View Post
    I will test that unit, I have one here, and my mate has a moonlander... I will test to see if we can run it backwards, and on drive side.... Keep ya in the loop...
    More info on the link below

    Mountain Bike Dynamo Light!

  10. #10
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    Ok so a ask what might be a stupid question----why can't you just use a longer axle with spacers to make a 100mm hub fit a 135mm fork besides the brake problem which i would think could be spaced too?
    “An adventure is misery and discomfort, relived in the safety of reminiscence.” Marco Polo

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by t0pcat View Post
    Ok so a ask what might be a stupid question----why can't you just use a longer axle with spacers to make a 100mm hub fit a 135mm fork besides the brake problem which i would think could be spaced too?
    Being new to fat bikes I guess you probably could but I haven't seen it done anywhere yet.

    The problems would be compromising weight, strength and torsional stiffness. It's the last one I would be most concerned with both for flex that may be introduced into the steering and the huge forces applied to a spaced brake calliper especially with a loaded bike

  12. #12
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    Then there's this, which is still in development:
    kickstarter.com/projects/dynamodirk/magnic-light-get-new-energy

  13. #13
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    HFF...Hundies Fit Fine in 100mm forks...some folks complain about having to remove the caliper to get the wheel out, but there is a trick to avoid having to removing the caliper...
    If Huffy made an airplane, would you fly in it?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by damnitman View Post
    HFF...Hundies Fit Fine in 100mm forks...some folks complain about having to remove the caliper to get the wheel out, but there is a trick to avoid having to removing the caliper...
    Doubt BFLs on Clown Shoe rims would get past the calliper!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by damnitman View Post
    HFF...Hundies Fit Fine in 100mm forks...some folks complain about having to remove the caliper to get the wheel out, but there is a trick to avoid having to removing the caliper...
    Pics! (Coming from someone who owns neither a 100mm Surly fork nor 100mm rims)

    I'm guessing: find a parallel spoke gap and start inserting the tire perpendicular to the way it ends up mounted, hoping that the inner rim diameter to outer tire diameter distance is less than 100mm?
    Latitude: 44.93 N

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by t0pcat View Post
    Ok so a ask what might be a stupid question----why can't you just use a longer axle with spacers to make a 100mm hub fit a 135mm fork besides the brake problem which i would think could be spaced too?
    There's another issue, disc brake alignment. You'll have to space the axle mostly on one side only. This will require bad side-to-side spoke tension symmetry (weird dishing offset).

  17. #17
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    Done by K-Lite in Australia.
    Moonlander dynamo test | Facebook
    ------------------------------------------------------
    http://thechargingrhino.blogspot.com/

  18. #18
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    Nope...guess again...

    edit- here's a hint...it's an ancient Taiwanese secret with a part number of 00.5016.174.010
    Last edited by damnitman; 06-23-2012 at 12:52 AM.
    If Huffy made an airplane, would you fly in it?

  19. #19
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    If you want to run a dyno you should consider a 100mm fat front fork. This bike has a switchable SP Dynohub on a 100mm fat-compatible front fork. The hub works great and has really held up well despite the beating it's taken on loaded dirt tours. The Supernova E3 light is exceptionally bright and is wonderful to have for riding at night.

    Last edited by pierre meux; 06-22-2012 at 10:47 PM.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by t0pcat View Post
    Ok so a ask what might be a stupid question----why can't you just use a longer axle with spacers to make a 100mm hub fit a 135mm fork besides the brake problem which i would think could be spaced too?
    I'm pretty sure that the armature for the dynamo is an integral part of the front axle. I don't think it's as interchangeable as one for a normal hub.

  21. #21
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    SRAM / Avid is coming!

  22. #22
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    [QUOTE=iggs;9420460
    But obviously a fat bike front hub dynamo is going to be URBER niche.........isnt it?

    [/QUOTE]

    I was inspired by the same thread and now have a Son dynamo hub with 15mm thru-axle that my wheelbuilder is lacing to a 47mm trailtech rim. The hub is 100mm and needs to fit in in a German a Flame fork with 110mm spacing and 20mm thru-axle. Definitely niche, as it requires a few cutsom parts to make it work, but seems to me the ideal way of keeping light(s) and GPS powered on longer trips.

    I'd say go for it!

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