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  1. #301
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    well internal shoe-goo sealing of the seam didn't work..

  2. #302
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    Hey guys, we have a user called "Negotiator50" posting comments in other forums that the FM3.0 is full of warranty issues with rear stays cracking and the hubs binding up or sticking. Is there any truth to that, or is he merely posting slander to muddy the FM3.0 brand name? (he is one of those BikesDirect guys)

  3. #303
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    nzxt, where are you seeing these post?

    I haven't heard of a single chain stay cracking on a 3.0 or of any hubs issue. I've heard of 4 of the 2.0 breaking on the chain stay.

    If you visit the Framed Minnesota Fat Bike Facebook Group, there are over 600 members and you can ask around but you won't find a single chain stay or hub issue on the 3.0 from any of the owners on the group.

    https://www.facebook.com/groups/691226087566074/
    Current bikes:
    2015 Framed Alaskan Carbon
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  4. #304
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    Wink

    Quote Originally Posted by nzxt View Post
    Hey guys, we have a user called "Negotiator50" posting comments in other forums that the FM3.0 is full of warranty issues with rear stays cracking and the hubs binding up or sticking. Is there any truth to that, or is he merely posting slander to muddy the FM3.0 brand name? (he is one of those BikesDirect guys)
    GETEM! OUR CHEAP BIKES ARE BETTER THAN THEIR CHEAP BIKES!

    Sturgis / Night Train - Bikes Direct Review

    no offence but lol at interweb fights.....
    The bike is never to heavy, you are just to WEAK!

  5. #305
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    Kawidan, thanks for the info... then Negotiator50 is indeed making all these negative frame issues up... and posting the info in the BD forums.

    ...you see all their good fat bikes are sold out for at least another 1-3 months... and they are spamming the other brands that are currently in stock... just to try and promote some type of brand loyalty...within BD, and not get people to look elsewhere.
    Last edited by nzxt; 12-20-2014 at 01:58 AM.

  6. #306
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kawidan View Post
    nzxt, where are you seeing these post?

    I haven't heard of a single chain stay cracking on a 3.0 or of any hubs issue. I've heard of 4 of the 2.0 breaking on the chain stay.

    If you visit the Framed Minnesota Fat Bike Facebook Group, there are over 600 members and you can ask around but you won't find a single chain stay or hub issue on the 3.0 from any of the owners on the group.

    https://www.facebook.com/groups/691226087566074/
    Until tonight...

  7. #307
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    I haven't even gotten my bike yet and now I'm getting worried. Fatboy here I come.

  8. #308
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    Relax guys. I was joking with nzxt. It was in response to him making up some issues about my beloved Night Train Bullet. Just returning the favor.

    I have actually seen the FM3 at an expo I was at in November. Looked like a great bike. I am sure anyone would be happy with it. What's not to love about any fat bike?

  9. #309
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    Ok, so some dude who I take dos not even own the bike, is posting about issues. I have not seen a single person that OWNS the bike post about these issues. Until I see MULTIPLE owners posting about issues I would not worry.

    I personally know couple riders had frame issues with other large brands. There is always a chance of a defective frame or riders 'abusing/riding hard' bikes regardless of a brand.

    Face it, this is a $1000 rigid frame bike. Can a ~200lb rider crack this frame doing jumps and riding aggressively? I'm sure that over time there will be cases as with all brands. I also own Ibis SLR. The frame alone lists on the Ibis website for $2699 (with fox rear shock). Guess what, I read about cases (with pictures) where the frame exhibited cracks. Does it mean that their frames suck in terms of quality/design? Or is it more a case of few bad frames or very aggressive riding?

    If you take your Framed bike and do many large jumps, dropoffs etc. and happen to crack something, do not be surprised. On the other hand, if owners start reporting issues with less aggressive riding and we see multiple reports... Just trying to put things in to perspective.

  10. #310
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    Quote Originally Posted by mojoB View Post
    I've changed the rear brake cable out for Jagwire and that's made a big difference to the feel and power. It's not as nice as the XT brake and rotor on the front though
    Ok I should have not called them junk Lets just say these are low end. Honestly a set of good XT brakes with SLX rotors will run you about $250, thats a quarter of the cost of the whole Framed bike. When you consider the cost of the whole bike, the brakes you get are not that bad.

    Good point on replacing the cables. I might do the same thing for shifting or maybe at least lubricate the cables.

  11. #311
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    I took the bike on another ride. This time a little over 1 hour in the evening with lights towards the end of the ride on more demanding single track. I'm still quite conservative in my riding due to the recovering from the fractured wrist and there were a number of larger size logs I did not attempt to get over. Through the smaller stuff, roots, rocks, climbs, descends the bike did very well. I also got the 30psi gauge in the mail and as I thought the larger psi gauges did not give much of measuring precision with the low psi and I was 4psi off as in too much. Will need to do some test rides to get that tuned in.

  12. #312
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    Question about the brakes housing. I have read just a few post about the housing not being the best and making the brakes not work the best. I want to know if changing the brake cables / housing helps out the brakes enough to make the upgrade. I have XT hydro's on my FS bike and love them, but I really don't want to spend the money right now to upgrade to hydro's. I know I will never make my bb7's as good as my XT hydro's but at this point if I cant get them to work better I will have to upgrade.

    So, is getting new cable / housing for the brakes worth it?

    Thanks

  13. #313
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Javorsky View Post
    Question about the brakes housing. I have read just a few post about the housing not being the best and making the brakes not work the best. I want to know if changing the brake cables / housing helps out the brakes enough to make the upgrade. I have XT hydro's on my FS bike and love them, but I really don't want to spend the money right now to upgrade to hydro's. I know I will never make my bb7's as good as my XT hydro's but at this point if I cant get them to work better I will have to upgrade.

    So, is getting new cable / housing for the brakes worth it?

    Thanks
    My LBS pointed out right away that the brakes were not going to function as well as they could, without the proper jacketing. So they suggested compressionless Jagwire and I ordered it, as I have that same setup on an XTR hardtail and it works well. Others here also switched to Jagwire and said there was a significant improvement.

    In the meantime, I swapped out for some Avid Flak Jacket I had laying around and that was also an improvement over what shipped with the bike.

    This bike is going to be used all winter and see a lot of salt so I am staying away from expensive upgrades.

    That's the inexpensive route I am taking first...

  14. #314
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    Quote Originally Posted by nzxt View Post
    My LBS pointed out right away that the brakes were not going to function as well as they could, without the proper jacketing. So they suggested compressionless Jagwire and I ordered it, as I have that same setup on an XTR hardtail and it works well. Others here also switched to Jagwire and said there was a significant improvement.

    In the meantime, I swapped out for some Avid Flak Jacket I had laying around and that was also an improvement over what shipped with the bike.

    That's the inexpensive route I am taking first...

    Cool, Thanks. This helps a lot. I will have to give it a try.

  15. #315
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    What's a good option for an upgraded crankset under $250 for the 3.0 XL?

  16. #316
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    A lot of guys are upgrading to the SRAM X5. Lighter, better gearing and it's stiffer.

    Great buy

    SRAM X5 Fat Bike GXP100 Crankset 2014 > Components > Drivetrain > Cranksets | Jenson USA
    Current bikes:
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  17. #317
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    Booyakasha!

    Framed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-img_20141220_163607.jpg

    Framed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-img_20141220_163627.jpg

    Framed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-img_20141220_163728.jpg

    Framed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-img_20141220_163750.jpg

    Framed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-img_20141220_163833.jpg

    Framed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-img_20141220_164020.jpg

    Framed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-img_20141220_164025.jpg

    Framed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-img_20141220_164112.jpg

  18. #318
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kawidan View Post
    A lot of guys are upgrading to the SRAM X5. Lighter, better gearing and it's stiffer.

    Great buy

    SRAM X5 Fat Bike GXP100 Crankset 2014 > Components > Drivetrain > Cranksets | Jenson USA
    The 3.0 XL needs a crankset for 190mm rear spacing. Anyone else have suggestions?

  19. #319
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    the 32 tooth cassette is not enough. Anyone see any good deals on a 36t cassette upgrade?
    2014 Singular Gryphon
    2013 C-Dale F29 Alloy 2, CAAD10 105
    2005 Jamis Dakar XC Expert
    2014 Framed Minn. 3.0 Bluto

  20. #320
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    Quote Originally Posted by nhmtns View Post
    The 3.0 XL needs a crankset for 190mm rear spacing. Anyone else have suggestions?
    I don't see any problem with the X5.

  21. #321
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  22. #322
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    Quote Originally Posted by x3speed View Post
    the 32 tooth cassette is not enough. Anyone see any good deals on a 36t cassette upgrade?
    Nashbar has the Shimano XT 11-36 for $51.99. You might be able to get Jenson's to price match it and with Jenson's you'd get an extra 10% cashback by using Active Junky.

    Shimano Deore XT 10-Speed Cassette
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  23. #323
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    I was under the impression that a special crankset is required for 190mm rear hubs. I'm new to fat bikes and still trying to figure this out. Just read all the info on the link and still not sure what I need: Tech Speak: Decoding Fatbike Hub Spacing and Drivetrain Compatibility with Wolf Tooth Components

  24. #324
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    Will the shimano work with our drivetrain?
    2014 Singular Gryphon
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    2005 Jamis Dakar XC Expert
    2014 Framed Minn. 3.0 Bluto

  25. #325
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    Quote Originally Posted by x3speed View Post
    Will the shimano work with our drivetrain?
    yes :

    How to Upgrade Your Shimano Drive Train

  26. #326
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    Quote Originally Posted by aliG View Post
    This only shows Shimano to Shimano upgrades. The Framed has SRAM X5 and X7 components.

  27. #327
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    The cassettes are interchangeable on 8/9/10 speed drivetrains. I have XT/XTR shifters/derailleur on my skinny bike with a SRAM cassette.

  28. #328
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    Quote Originally Posted by Damon777 View Post
    The cassettes are interchangeable on 8/9/10 speed drivetrains. I have XT/XTR shifters/derailleur on my skinny bike with a SRAM cassette.
    My Bad. Reading comprehension fail. I thought someone was asking if an XT/XTR RD would work. I see they were talking about cassettes!

  29. #329
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    I was concerned about dynasys working with x7
    2014 Singular Gryphon
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    2005 Jamis Dakar XC Expert
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  30. #330
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    Quote Originally Posted by x3speed View Post
    the 32 tooth cassette is not enough. Anyone see any good deals on a 36t cassette upgrade?
    Why not change the rings to something like Race Face? I have several sizes I have been massing around with on my XT crank on the Ibis bike. You can get them at a good price on ebay and had no issues with them

    Race Face

  31. #331
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    What bdc do we have on the stock crank.
    2014 Singular Gryphon
    2013 C-Dale F29 Alloy 2, CAAD10 105
    2005 Jamis Dakar XC Expert
    2014 Framed Minn. 3.0 Bluto

  32. #332
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    Quote Originally Posted by x3speed View Post
    What bdc do we have on the stock crank.
    104mm

    Also the stock bolts are 4mm hex on one side and 5mm on the other side. Spent longer than I should have wondering why the chainring nut wrench wasn't fitting. You'll need to get smaller bolts if your going to a single chainring setup.
    Aussie in Chicagoland (what's all this white stuff?)

  33. #333
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    Any suggestions on bolt sources. Thank for the help!
    2014 Singular Gryphon
    2013 C-Dale F29 Alloy 2, CAAD10 105
    2005 Jamis Dakar XC Expert
    2014 Framed Minn. 3.0 Bluto

  34. #334
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    Quote Originally Posted by x3speed View Post
    Any suggestions on bolt sources. Thank for the help!
    SRAM 10spd shifters and derailleurs work with Shimano 10spd Cassettes, and vice versa.

    bolt pattern is 104/64.

    there might be another general forum better suited to helping you out with the basics of replacing cassettes, chain rings, cranks, BBs, etc.

  35. #335
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    Yeah, im confident on switching, just familiar with this specific crank. On the cassette front, I had some issues blending sram shimano der. And shifters. Wasn't sure if dynasys worked well with sram. Since guys have modified this specific setup, thought this would be the place to ask. Btw, anybody got tubeless to work yet?
    2014 Singular Gryphon
    2013 C-Dale F29 Alloy 2, CAAD10 105
    2005 Jamis Dakar XC Expert
    2014 Framed Minn. 3.0 Bluto

  36. #336
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    Went for a ride today. This trail is called "Pure Bliss". This is the entrance.

    Bike handled fantastic all day.

    Beargrease
    Log Lady 27+ SS
    RSD Sergeant
    RSD Catalyst dirt road bike
    On One fixed
    SantaCruz SS ('99)

  37. #337
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    Very cool picture. thx for sharing!

  38. #338
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    Quote Originally Posted by nzxt View Post
    Very cool picture. thx for sharing!
    Thanks. I'm also loving the 1x10. Such a simple trail ride. Little things make the difference.
    Beargrease
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    RSD Sergeant
    RSD Catalyst dirt road bike
    On One fixed
    SantaCruz SS ('99)

  39. #339
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    Found this on another website. Someone actually weighed most of the parts from a Minnesota 2.0.


    Description Weight (g)
    Pedals, Framed Alloy 607-X 362
    Seatpost clamp 42
    Seatpost w/ hardware 398
    Saddle, Velo Plush 346
    Grips, w/ clamps 124
    Bar w/ end caps (5g pair) 322
    Stem 150
    Chain, KMC X-9 113 links w/ 2 quick links 288
    Cassette, SRAM 9-sp 11/34 w/ lock ring 448
    Crankset, Truvativ 28/38/Bash 892
    Crank Bolts 26
    Shifter, Front 2-sp SRAM X-5 125
    Front Shifter Cable / Housing 31
    Derailleur, Front 2x10 SRAM X-7 137
    Headset, Neco 1-1/8 w/ 15mm Spacer 115
    Stem Cap / Bolt 16
    Other stem spacers, 10mm 15
    Front Wheel w/ skewer and rotor 1694
    Rear Wheel w/ skewer and rotor, no cassette 1870
    Tube, Vee Rubber 26" x 4.0" #1 476
    Tube, Vee Rubber 26" x 4.0" #2 435
    Tire, Vee Mission 120tpi #1 1399
    Tire, Vee Mission 120tpi #2 1425
    Rim Strips, black, stock #1 79
    Rim Strips, black, stock #2 80
    Bottom Bracket (no bolts) 341
    Fork, incl. crown race, star nut 934
    Frame, 2.0 20" incl. BB, hanger, FD bolt, housing clips 2184
    Last edited by nhmtns; 12-23-2014 at 07:09 PM.

  40. #340
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    Quote Originally Posted by x3speed View Post
    Any suggestions on bolt sources. Thank for the help!

    These ones worked just fine.
    Aussie in Chicagoland (what's all this white stuff?)

  41. #341
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    Anyone know when framed changed from a 11-36 to 11-32 cassette? I was always planning to go with the wolf tooth or one-up 42t. I noticed within minutes on the first ride the gearing was a bit higher than I'd like, but I never checked the rear cassette, or realized it was 11-32.

    Now I must replace my brand new cassette, not happy. I like to ride the river valley nearby with my son in his trailer, I'll need all the gear I can get for a few of the steeper climbs. I wonder when they are going to make a fat trail a bike?

  42. #342
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    Update on tubeless conversion; I sealed the wheel seam on the outside of the rim with jb clear 5 minute epoxy. Removed rim strip and replaced it with clear duct tape sticky side up, covered with one wrap of 2.88" gorilla tape. 4ozs of stans poured in and then hit with shop air. Holding steady at 20 psi. Going to do the rear tomorrow and take it for a ride around the neiborhood to spread sealant. Then air it down to trail conditions

  43. #343
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    Thanks for posting on the tubeless, ill get some soon. The cassette is infuriating. Still don't get it. Ill never use the big chainring.
    2014 Singular Gryphon
    2013 C-Dale F29 Alloy 2, CAAD10 105
    2005 Jamis Dakar XC Expert
    2014 Framed Minn. 3.0 Bluto

  44. #344
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    Yep, that was a key spec they changed and one of the examples of framed making good component choices. I just threw on a 22 small ring I had sitting around.

  45. #345
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcracer2 View Post
    Yep, that was a key spec they changed and one of the examples of framed making good component choices. I just threw on a 22 small ring I had sitting around.
    I was going to go 1x10, but yeah, I'll likely just do the same now
    .

  46. #346
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    Quote Originally Posted by nhmtns View Post
    Found this on another website. Someone actually weighed most of the parts from a Minnesota 2.0.


    Description Weight (g)
    Pedals, Framed Alloy 607-X 362
    Seatpost clamp 42
    Seatpost w/ hardware 398
    Saddle, Velo Plush 346
    Grips, w/ clamps 124
    Bar w/ end caps (5g pair) 322
    Stem 150
    Chain, KMC X-9 113 links w/ 2 quick links 288
    Cassette, SRAM 9-sp 11/34 w/ lock ring 448
    Crankset, Truvativ 28/38/Bash 892
    Crank Bolts 26
    Shifter, Front 2-sp SRAM X-5 125
    Front Shifter Cable / Housing 31
    Derailleur, Front 2x10 SRAM X-7 137
    Headset, Neco 1-1/8 w/ 15mm Spacer 115
    Stem Cap / Bolt 16
    Other stem spacers, 10mm 15
    Front Wheel w/ skewer and rotor 1694
    Rear Wheel w/ skewer and rotor, no cassette 1870
    Tube, Vee Rubber 26" x 4.0" #1 476
    Tube, Vee Rubber 26" x 4.0" #2 435
    Tire, Vee Mission 120tpi #1 1399
    Tire, Vee Mission 120tpi #2 1425
    Rim Strips, black, stock #1 79
    Rim Strips, black, stock #2 80
    Bottom Bracket (no bolts) 341
    Fork, incl. crown race, star nut 934
    Frame, 2.0 20" incl. BB, hanger, FD bolt, housing clips 2184
    Thanks for posting that.

    It adds up to 14.75 kg (32.5 pounds). Do you know what's missing and/or have a link to the source?

  47. #347
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    My Minn 3.0 should be here Monday. I'll post a pic once it gets here.

  48. #348
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    My 3.0 was shipped on 11-29 and its also 11-32 cassette

  49. #349
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    I should post a pic. of the catalog showing the 3.0 speced with an 11-36 cassette. I'm going to need the 36 also.

  50. #350
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADKMTNBIKER View Post
    I should post a pic. of the catalog showing the 3.0 speced with an 11-36 cassette. I'm going to need the 36 also.
    da House said they couldn't ship the bikes on time if they waited for supply of 36's, so they made decision to go 32's and ship out earlier. make us $pend to upgrade to catalog specs. they said no to swapping out gears before shipping to my address. blah move.

  51. #351
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deslock View Post
    Thanks for posting that.

    It adds up to 14.75 kg (32.5 pounds). Do you know what's missing and/or have a link to the source?
    Found it here: MMBA • View topic - FS: Framed Minnesota 2.0 Fat Bike L(20")

  52. #352
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    yes the website has 32 listed clearly

    Framed Minnesota 3.0 Fat Bike 2015

  53. #353
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    Quote Originally Posted by aliG View Post
    da House said they couldn't ship the bikes on time if they waited for supply of 36's, so they made decision to go 32's and ship out earlier. make us $pend to upgrade to catalog specs. they said no to swapping out gears before shipping to my address. blah move.
    they said as much to me but they also told me to have my LBS switch out to the 32 cassette with a 36 after I called them out on the catalog that I had in my hand. I asked the dude why they did it and the answer he gave was that they don't have hills in Minnesota.


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    I have a question about the brakes on my 3.0. They have BB7's and 160mm rotors. I have upgraded the cables as many people have suggested. I want to add 203mm rotors now, and maybe add some SLX hydro's later. Good thing about this upgrade, I can add the bigger rotors now and when it is time for the hydro's I can just put them on... Not really losing or double buying anything. I want the 203mm rotors, because the bike is big and heavy and so Am I (250+) and just because they are cool.

    Here is my question. Looking on Jenson USA, Here is my parts list. I have never purchased brakes / rotors and or the adaptors and I want to make sure I am ordering the correct parts, and not forgetting anything. (are there better pads for the BB7's, cheap that would get me through the winter until next year when I get the hydro's that are worth the upgrade ?)


    Shimano Fork Disc Brake Adapters > Components > Brakes > Brake Adapters | Jenson USA

    This one for the front (I have Bluto) and select 203mm rotor size ?


    Shimano R203P/S Disc Brake Adaptor > Components > Brakes > Brake Adapters | Jenson USA

    This one for the rear ?


    Shimano SLX RT66 6-BOLT Rotor > Components > Brakes > Disc Brake Rotors | Jenson USA

    And the rotors, select 203mm as well ?

    Thanks for the help !!!
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  55. #355
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADKMTNBIKER View Post
    they said as much to me but they also told me to have my LBS switch out to the 32 cassette with a 36 after I called them out on the catalog that I had in my hand. I asked the dude why they did it and the answer he gave was that they don't have hills in Minnesota.

    maybe they could throw in some free .

  56. #356
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcracer2 View Post
    Update on tubeless conversion; I sealed the wheel seam on the outside of the rim with jb clear 5 minute epoxy. Removed rim strip and replaced it with clear duct tape sticky side up, covered with one wrap of 2.88" gorilla tape. 4ozs of stans poured in and then hit with shop air. Holding steady at 20 psi. Going to do the rear tomorrow and take it for a ride around the neiborhood to spread sealant. Then air it down to trail conditions
    Can you explain why you sealed the seam on the outside versus the inside?

    Thanks!

  57. #357
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    Because the bead of epoxy would have to run across the tire bead

  58. #358
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    Time to vent. Ordered a Minnesota 3.0 XWT from The House so I could ride during my 12-day winter vacation from teaching. Bike was shipped on 12/19 but didn't arrive in NH until 12/29. Ugh. Well, still have a week to ride (conditions are awesome). Open the box and realize the bike has H-Billies and not Bulldozers. Ugh! Call The House and they agree to overnight me the right tires with a label to return the wrong ones. Get the box today (12/30). They sent me ONE freaking Bulldozer. Ugh!! Called them again and they said they'll send the other one, but it won't get here until Friday, 1/2, because of the holiday.

    Well, that leaves me two days to ride before I go back to teaching...except my wife has to work both those days and I'll be at home with our infant son. Merry Freaking New Years.

  59. #359
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    Quote Originally Posted by nhmtns View Post
    Time to vent. Ordered a Minnesota 3.0 XWT from The House so I could ride during my 12-day winter vacation from teaching. Bike was shipped on 12/19 but didn't arrive in NH until 12/29. Ugh. Well, still have a week to ride (conditions are awesome). Open the box and realize the bike has H-Billies and not Bulldozers. Ugh! Call The House and they agree to overnight me the right tires with a label to return the wrong ones. Get the box today (12/30). They sent me ONE freaking Bulldozer. Ugh!! Called them again and they said they'll send the other one, but it won't get here until Friday, 1/2, because of the holiday.

    Well, that leaves me two days to ride before I go back to teaching...except my wife has to work both those days and I'll be at home with our infant son. Merry Freaking New Years.
    ...in all honestly, not sure venting here is the right thing to do. the containers cam in about 4 or5 DEC. the BikeS were all shipping out by 8 dec. mine arrived to NY in 4 days. Same distance roughly t my address, as somewhere in NH.

    YOU ordered your bike LAST minute, in the xmas rush time period, and two shortened, or holidays during the ship time. So, bike left on a Friday (19th)....didn't move 20-21 (weekend), had 22-23-24 to work with, sat 25, shipping during the 27th, then sat 27,28 (weekend). then ships 29-30.

    That's 6 working days to reach you in the middle of the xmas break.

    not too bad .. and it did come with 4.25 tires that work OK in the snow. Having to wait 2 two more business days to airmail you the wider tires, during xmas and new years... is also very good timing,

    MAYBE, you should have planned ahead. not last second. seriously.... xmas rush....oversized ground freight package....and weather delays also expected.


    who really is to blame here?

  60. #360
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    Quote Originally Posted by nzxt View Post
    who really is to blame here?
    The shipping I understand. I would have ordered sooner, but there were none available. I usually go through a LBS, but no one could get these bikes. When I found one online, I jumped at the opportunity.

    To answer your question, it's pretty clear that The House is to blame for shipping a bike with the wrong tires and then for sending only one replacement tire. Telling someone they should just ride a new bike with the wrong tires is pretty ridiculous. What's the point of all these forums on MTBR if it doesn't matter what components people use? Bike came with an X5 derailleur instead of an X9? Big deal, at least it shifts, right? Umm, no.

    I'll be the first to admit that my venting is mostly from disappointment. In the big picture, this bike issue is small change. I still have a beautiful baby boy and much else to be thankful for in life. The biggest lesson here is to use your LBS if you want the best customer service.

  61. #361
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    Many of us know your pain...Many of us waited weeks and months past the promised ship by date. I have been enjoying the H Billie tires just fine on the snow and I do believe they will be a better summer tire. Perhaps you could have used the H Billie tires and asked for a deal on a set of bulldozers? I am a NH teacher as well and it might make you feel a bit better that the first chunk of vacation was a no go for fat biking up north. Plenty of snow but soft crumbling and miserable. Not to mention the water and flooding. Got in little riding. However, things are rock hard and superb on our snowmobile trails now. Crust is mostly a no go as it drained and froze slow. I don't know where exactly you are located but there are several Framed dealers around me up north. Actually I think the six closest shops have Framed bikes on the floor. Not sure if the XWT or bluto is offered at the lbs. You will likely need to tweak the gearing front and back for extended climbs in loose conditions. Take it apart and grease it up well. Headset, BB, seatpost, freehub etc. Not much/any used and will lead to noises and stuck parts.

    Winter is just getting started. PM if you want to ride north of Mt.Washington.

  62. #362
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    Quote Originally Posted by WesternMD View Post
    Perhaps you could have used the H Billie tires and asked for a deal on a set of bulldozers?

    Take it apart and grease it up well. Headset, BB, seatpost, freehub etc. Not much/any used and will lead to noises and stuck parts.

    Winter is just getting started. PM if you want to ride north of Mt.Washington.
    Yeah, I realize a lot of people have been waiting forever for their bikes. My shipping issue is fairly insignificant compared to others. My real frustration was with the tire situation.

    I actually thought about maybe keeping the H-Billies for a brief moment, but The House offered to overnight me the Bulldozers, so I figured I could wait a day. Then when they only shipped one, I was sort of caught in the middle. I don't plan on riding this bike past winter, so I only wanted a fat snow tire.

    I did grease up all the dry parts as suggested. I live in the MWV, so you must be up the Gorham area. Would love to ride sometime.

  63. #363
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    Quote Originally Posted by nhmtns View Post
    Yeah, I realize a lot of people have been waiting forever for their bikes. My shipping issue is fairly insignificant compared to others. My real frustration was with the tire situation.

    I actually thought about maybe keeping the H-Billies for a brief moment, but The House offered to overnight me the Bulldozers, so I figured I could wait a day. Then when they only shipped one, I was sort of caught in the middle. I don't plan on riding this bike past winter, so I only wanted a fat snow tire.

    I did grease up all the dry parts as suggested. I live in the MWV, so you must be up the Gorham area. Would love to ride sometime.
    Live in Berlin and ride Berlin/Gorham regularly. Been exploring Conway this past fall. Riding is great now and no traffic on sled trails as they are a bit rugged. Planning to ride tomorrow but I guess that doesn't help ya! Little salt in the wound... Great Glen will be Fat Friendly this Sunday afternoon.

    I would be game for connecting some time. I do ride nights during the week.

    Jamie

  64. #364
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    @nhmtns - enjoy your new baby boy.. before you know it he'll be chasing you around the yard on his bike and you'll wonder how he grew so fast!

    I'm going to play devils advocate a little. You've been warned. My comments are in no way directed at any particular person. Just thoughts on the situations some have encountered..

    I can relate to the shipping delay, component swap and service frustrations. However, I live near the The House and have witnessed first hand that the guys there are a great group with great intentions. Most of you know this already, but for those that don't: The House and Framed are virtually the same. The House has a long history of snow sports gear but is relatively new to fat bikes. Having worked at small companies I can relate to the growing pains they must be going through. It seems the fat bike line is more successful than they could have imagined and they are struggling to scale. Vendor supply/delivery delays that are out of their control only exacerbate the issues.

    I am one of the most particular people I know so going into my pre-order I had to temper my expectations knowing that I was ordering arguably a "budget" bike compared to the rest of the market. I am still waiting for my Alaskan alloy. And I intend to scrutinize it upon delivery (like I would any other bike) and follow up with the guys at the shop with likes and dislikes. Given my recent experience with them I am confident they will be receptive to the feedback and do their best to address issues in the future.

    Had I visited a different LBS and ordered a more mature brand I would expect to pay nearly double the cost of the package I ordered. I would also expect fewer delivery issues, etc. However, it seems like a lot of brands are struggling with supply issues as well.


    I hope you all receive your bikes in a timely fashion and enjoy the hell out of riding them! I am looking forward to seeing and sharing more pictures of Framed bikes in the wild. If anyone is in the Minneapolis area I would love to get together for a group ride.. after the Alaskan lands

  65. #365
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    I weighed some of the pics from the 3.0.

    Volt saddle - 288g
    Framed seat post - 359g
    Seat post collar - 22g
    Framed stem - 162g
    Fork (trimmed for 20" frame with headset nut and headset race) - 1060g
    Grips, clamps & plugs - 121g
    Crank with rings & bash - 886g
    Cranks bare - 592g
    Bash guard - 81g
    38T ring - 112g
    28T ring - 66g
    SRAM 11-32 cassette - 302g
    Bar - 294g

    Scale pics available in this FB album:
    https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...3480392&type=1

  66. #366
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    My Bluto came with the headset race already installed on the fork, but I had to install the headset nut, and cut the steer tube to length.

  67. #367
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    Some pics of our 3.0 XWTs. One with Bluto and one without. (We've changed a few other parts too.)

    Framed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-10866015_10153134747048296_433456584110318305_o.jpg

    Framed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-10848963_10153134747018296_141753280601752387_o.jpg





    Framed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-10865980_10153134747323296_4292570902819412427_o.jpg

    Framed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-10896414_10153134747308296_865623527300944086_o.jpg


  68. #368
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    cool photos...thanks for sharing!

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    First ride with my Minn 3.0 w/ Bluto

    Got my first ride in on my Minnesota 3.0 with the Bluto. I'm not some beast of a climber but I'm not half bad either, and I noticed right off the bat this thing isn't geared for climbing. Luckily my Sram X5 crankset came in and with the 36/22t it now is much better suited for the trails I ride. (This bike will most likely never see "real" snow)

    Framed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-img_20141231_184053.jpg

    I had a blast, but I struggled to keep up with the group of 29ers that I normally am right up front with. I ride trail in Arkansas so it's mainly rocky singletrack with a lot of ups and downs. I'm waiting on my Transition Scout to come in so right now this is my only bike. Maybe it will make me stronger!

    Overall I'm very pleased with this bike. Comparing it side by side to a Salsa, yes, there are some differences. But for the money you can't beat this bike.

  70. #370
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    Quote Originally Posted by nhmtns View Post
    Found this on another website. Someone actually weighed most of the parts from a Minnesota 2.0.


    Description Weight (g)
    Pedals, Framed Alloy 607-X 362
    Seatpost clamp 42
    Seatpost w/ hardware 398
    Saddle, Velo Plush 346
    Grips, w/ clamps 124
    Bar w/ end caps (5g pair) 322
    Stem 150
    Chain, KMC X-9 113 links w/ 2 quick links 288
    Cassette, SRAM 9-sp 11/34 w/ lock ring 448
    Crankset, Truvativ 28/38/Bash 892
    Crank Bolts 26
    Shifter, Front 2-sp SRAM X-5 125
    Front Shifter Cable / Housing 31
    Derailleur, Front 2x10 SRAM X-7 137
    Headset, Neco 1-1/8 w/ 15mm Spacer 115
    Stem Cap / Bolt 16
    Other stem spacers, 10mm 15
    Front Wheel w/ skewer and rotor 1694
    Rear Wheel w/ skewer and rotor, no cassette 1870
    Tube, Vee Rubber 26" x 4.0" #1 476
    Tube, Vee Rubber 26" x 4.0" #2 435
    Tire, Vee Mission 120tpi #1 1399
    Tire, Vee Mission 120tpi #2 1425
    Rim Strips, black, stock #1 79
    Rim Strips, black, stock #2 80
    Bottom Bracket (no bolts) 341
    Fork, incl. crown race, star nut 934
    Frame, 2.0 20" incl. BB, hanger, FD bolt, housing clips 2184
    >> Just swapped out the Sram 11-32t cassette for the Shimano XT 11-36t, and removed the Truvativ Crankset and BB and replaced with the Sram X5. Wt decreased 315gr. (3/4 lb)

    Weights :

    Truvativ 10spd crankset and BB = 1300gr.
    SRAM X5 crankset and BB = 985 gr.

    SRAM 10spd 11-32t cassette = 340 gr.
    Shimano XT 11-36t cassette = 340 gr.

    referring to the Gear Calculator at this link, using a cadence of 90rpm, and selecting their 29er wheel circumference, we get the following gear differences :

    38-11 top speed = 24.3 mph
    28-32 lowest speed = 6.2 mph

    36-11 top speed = 23 mph
    22-36 low speed = 4.3 mph

    on the low end, you get at least 31% better gearing with the new setup.

    if you just swap out the crankset, you get 20% better gearing.

    Hope this is helpful to someone.

  71. #371
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    I swapped my rings to 22/32 and cassette to 11-36 before it even hit the ground. Many of my local hilly snow rides have had avg speeds in the 6-7 mph range!!! Climbing 1500ft in 12 miles with super crunch high traction snow with tires at 5psi would be crushing at the stock gearing. I would have an avg cadence of like 30rpm...

    Did the q-factor match with the crank/BB swap? This square taper is like 154mm but I think it is comparable to a 170 rear axle set up?? Basically did you loose chain tire clearance in your lowest gear?

  72. #372
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    Quote Originally Posted by WesternMD View Post
    I swapped my rings to 22/32 and cassette to 11-36 before it even hit the ground. Many of my local hilly snow rides have had avg speeds in the 6-7 mph range!!! Climbing 1500ft in 12 miles with super crunch high traction snow with tires at 5psi would be crushing at the stock gearing. I would have an avg cadence of like 30rpm...

    Did the q-factor match with the crank/BB swap? This square taper is like 154mm but I think it is comparable to a 170 rear axle set up?? Basically did you loose chain tire clearance in your lowest gear?
    The Q factor decreased a bit, but everything still clears. I am not worried about fitting 5" tires on this bike. I do like being almost a pound lighter, the crankset looks much better, and it's much stiffer, and better sealed. The difference between the two cranks is night and day.


    I think the official online Q factor of the X5 is 202, plus 2for the pedal washers being used.

  73. #373
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    I'm also thinking about possible swap of the BB and crankset, I'm familiar with Shimano and not SRAM. Do you have specific model / size you used for SRAM X5 crankset and BB?




    Thanks!

  74. #374
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    Quote Originally Posted by dariusf View Post
    I'm also thinking about possible swap of the BB and crankset, I'm familiar with Shimano and not SRAM. Do you have specific model / size you used for SRAM X5 crankset and BB?




    Thanks!

    Ok lemme hook you guys up. I did same setup as NZXT. Was at LBS today and my bike weighs in at 35.00 lbs dead nuts even on the Park digital scale.

    Here is the parts list:

    Sram X5 GXP100 36/22 175mm FAT BIKE specific crank with BB....got on ebay for $104 new. Q is 202 and FSA Comet Q is 209. Stock Q is even bigger, like 215.

    Someone posted the Shimano cassette at Nashbar, and I nabbed that too. Was on sale $48 XT 11/36 and works with SRAM shifting a-ok.

    If you pedal "duck walk" with ankles in and toes out, then you gonna hit the seat stays or chain stays on the peal stroke with the Sram crank. If you pedal pigeon toe or straight toe to heel, then you got about 5mm clearance or more on the Stays.

    Like nzxt said, the crank is choice over stock.

    I put a nukeproof warhead 60mm 31.8 stem on with Fullon funn 785mm bars and ergon ends. Wicked choice steering from stock bc more upright and more relaxing.

    6.5 lbs air in snow, and no rubs on the tires and chain.

    in 22low and 36high, the chain to tire clearance is the same width as a chain (1/4" and a bit) - so a 4.8" tire is about all you can go with this setup.

    SDK saddle with Azonic QR and Ragley seat post from ChainReaction.

    Some people were pissing and moaning about fenders. I used SKS Grand Mom and Dad because they clip on and off easy and they cover up to 4.5" tires. $40pr on ebay. I got to deal with mud and slush and they keep me much drier than looking tough without them on.

    I take them off for snow days and dry trail days.

    Added Sram X7 Type 2 rear D.

    Have Garmin and Night riding lights.

    Profile cage and Polar bottle.

    soooooo 35.00 lbs dead nuts even riding weight with all those goodies minus the fenders, light and garmin unit. (weight included the bottle)

    I didn't mod the tubes bc I think that is a waste of time. One flat in the woods and tubeless can give you a headache.

    All the chicks love the colors and ask to take it for a spin........ the guys could care less......but I ain't trying to impress the guys

  75. #375
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    thats good info, thanks

    thats the same crankset I found, SRAM X5 Fat Bike GXP100

    SRAM X5 Fat Bike GXP100 Crankset 2014 > Components > Drivetrain > Cranksets | Jenson USA

    I'm 5'7" and use 165mm crank arms and have the small frame. This would give me more clearance against the chainstay then your 175mm. Although not sure if they make 165 in that model. All I found so far is 170 and 175mm.

    Would you be able to take pics of the crank arm clearance?

    I also do not have the Crank Puller tool (my Ibis uses BB92 press fit BB) so thats another ~$10-15

  76. #376
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    chain and crank arm clearance with Sram X5 in lowest chainring / highest cass cog

    Quote Originally Posted by dariusf View Post
    thats good info, thanks

    thats the same crankset I found, SRAM X5 Fat Bike GXP100

    SRAM X5 Fat Bike GXP100 Crankset 2014 > Components > Drivetrain > Cranksets | Jenson USA

    I'm 5'7" and use 165mm crank arms and have the small frame. This would give me more clearance against the chainstay then your 175mm. Although not sure if they make 165 in that model. All I found so far is 170 and 175mm.

    Would you be able to take pics of the crank arm clearance?

    I also do not have the Crank Puller tool (my Ibis uses BB92 press fit BB) so thats another ~$10-15
    Here is a hi-res with the digital SLR :

    Frame size = 18"

    You need two tools to pull the stock crank off the bike. I included a picture of them.

    Seems the stock chain likes to start rusting quick. I try to oil it after the bike dries off after each ride.

    Framed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-chain-clearance.jpg

    Framed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-chain-clearance2.jpg

    Framed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-chain-clearance3.jpg

    Framed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-crank-tool.jpg

    Name:  park tool BBT-22.jpg
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    BBT-9
    BBT-22 or BBT-2
    CCP-1
    Last edited by nzxt; 01-09-2015 at 02:38 PM.

  77. #377
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    Great, Thanks! Thats not that close at all. As for the tools, I have the bottom bracket tool but need the Crank Puller.

  78. #378
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    On a 3.0 what size is the seat post, if you are going to replace it with a new post?

    Thanks
    2016 Motobecane Bullet
    2015 TREK REMEDY/BUILD
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  79. #379
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Javorsky View Post
    On a 3.0 what size is the seat post, if you are going to replace it with a new post?

    Thanks
    34.9

    edit:

    sorry, misread my scribbled notes, seat post is 30.9, seat clamp is 34.9
    Last edited by dariusf; 01-05-2015 at 05:57 AM.

  80. #380
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    Seatpost diameter 30.9

  81. #381
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    Quote Originally Posted by WesternMD View Post
    Seatpost diameter 30.9
    Thanks, this is the info I am looking for !!!
    2016 Motobecane Bullet
    2015 TREK REMEDY/BUILD
    2014 Trek Fuel EX9 FRAME/REAR SHOCK FOR SALE
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  82. #382
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    Framed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork

    [QUOTE=nzxt;11678867]Here is a hi-res with the digital SLR :

    Frame size = 18"

    You need two tools to pull the stock crank off the bike. I included a picture of them.

    Seems the stock chain likes to start rusting quick. I try to oil it after the bike dries off after each ride.

    Thanks for the info. This is exactly what I wanted to know before I made the leap. This seems like a great upgrade. New X5 crankset is on order.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  83. #383
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    ...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Framed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-img_0134.jpg  

    Framed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-img_0120x.jpg  

    Framed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-12jan01a.jpg  

    Framed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-12jan01b.jpg  

    Last edited by aliG; 05-22-2015 at 01:34 PM.

  84. #384
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    should be picking mine up in about 12 hours.

  85. #385
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    Quote Originally Posted by nzxt View Post
    Here is a hi-res with the digital SLR :

    Frame size = 18"

    You need two tools to pull the stock crank off the bike. I included a picture of them.

    Seems the stock chain likes to start rusting quick. I try to oil it after the bike dries off after each ride.


    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	crank tool.jpg 
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    Please correct me if I am wrong. The above picture shows the correct tool to pull the old cranks off, but the other tool pictured is the tool to put the NEW bottom bracket in, but not take out the old one?

    Thanks.
    2016 Motobecane Bullet
    2015 TREK REMEDY/BUILD
    2014 Trek Fuel EX9 FRAME/REAR SHOCK FOR SALE
    2013 Trek Domane 2.3

  86. #386
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    So does anyone know if the bar is actually 12 degrees of sweep? (Doesn't look like it) I suppose that's 6 deg per side? One thing I have noticed is increased wrist fatigue (I do run the Bluto) with this bike. Looking at the answer 720 Carbon enduro bar or another bar with increased sweep.

  87. #387
    Back in NH
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    They list the riser on the 3.0 as 12 degrees and the flat bar on the 1.0 and 2.0 as 12 degrees as well. I have both bars in hand and the sweep is much greater on the flat bar than the riser. I do think that the 12 degrees on the flat bar seems about right. The riser on the 3.0 does not appear to be close to 12 degrees.

  88. #388
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    Framed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork

    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Javorsky View Post
    Please correct me if I am wrong. The above picture shows the correct tool to pull the old cranks off, but the other tool pictured is the tool to put the NEW bottom bracket in, but not take out the old one?

    Thanks.
    You will need this to remove the bottom bracket.

    http://m.parktool.com/product/bottom...et-tool-bbt-22

    Or you can use this one too. Less expensive but won't fit on a 3/8" drive, you just use a wrench to turn.




    Edit: http://m.parktool.com/product/bottom...et-tool-bbt-32

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  89. #389
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Javorsky View Post
    Please correct me if I am wrong. The above picture shows the correct tool to pull the old cranks off, but the other tool pictured is the tool to put the NEW bottom bracket in, but not take out the old one?

    Thanks.
    I added the third tool and listed their part numbers in my original post.

  90. #390
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    Congrats to The House for selling out another round of Framed Minnesota 3.0s !

  91. #391
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    Anyone remember/know where tire choices & pictures were/are? Been running stock H-B's w/grip studs. Side lugs too small/short for studs & lugs too shallow, generally for really loose snow. Thinking Bud front & Nate rear? Bulldozer rear? Keep H's for summer & rested new ones. The D's & Ground Controls just seem too expensive & already have studs. Lous's don't really fit rear I recall. Wanted to revisit side by side photo's some one posted earlier

  92. #392
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kawidan View Post
    The 3.0XWT comes with 4.7 tires. The small difference between the stock 4.7 Bulldozer and a 4.8 Lou could be just enough that the 4.7 doesn't rub and the 4.8 has a slight rub.

    From left to right, comparing the Bud, Bulldozer, Lou and Snowshoe XL in this picture the Lou appears to be a tad taller which would probably make it a tighter fit at higher PSI.

    Attachment 942630
    Photo of Nate?

  93. #393
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    bulldozer rear and lou front?

  94. #394
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    Studded snow tires

    I will post pictures soon, as I am making studded snow and ice tires out of the V-H Billies. Using #8x 3/8" 410 stainless self drilling screws.

    I read on other forums that many had success... so trying a few modifications now.

    I am not convinced 5" tires is the way to go to get better snow traction. I think 4-4.25 with studs would out perform any 5" non-studded tire when the snow gets deep.

    We had a storm the other day. Was out for 4 hours in the blizzard. It started at 4 inches.....then was up to 9inches with 14-16" snow drifts on the way back up the trails to get home. Once it passed 6-7 inches, the stock tires were pretty useless when there was any ice underneath. restarting was a pain in the ass. had to find somethign to hold onto, like a tree.... shift down into a lower gear with less torque... then push off and hope for the best.

    40-60kph crosswinds didn't help much.

    Another 6-8" inch storm tomorrow. Hopefully I will have both tires converted to studs by them. Got one done tonight. Silicon is just setting up now. Weight added is about 0.5-0.7 pounds each tire. approx. 150 studs per tire.Framed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-img_0262sx.jpgFramed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-img_0260sx.jpgFramed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-img_0266sx.jpg

  95. #395
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    Studded tires worked !

    150-200 studs per tire. keep the center 2 inches clear of studs. Better traction on pavement sections. Use weatherproof all-temperature silicon sealant...the kind used for outdoors sealing windows and doors....but get the kind that says "extra flex".... let that dry over night. then use lots of talcom/baby powder all around the inside of the tire, before adding in the tube and pumping the tire up. I went to 20 PSI and held it there for 8 hrs... then backed it down to 9 PSI to go snow and ice biking. I did 11 miles on hard pack and ice base, then did circuits around the outdoor pond rink, and it handled very well. QUICK braking. and Standing/balancing starts were very easy. Power slides on the ice really tore it up. 3-4 solid scars in the ice, and the bike stayed in control with that install tread pattern.

    when you go to install the screws, poke a hole through the tread center from the outside to inside, with either a nail, or a tool used for poking holes in things. once its through. mark the inside of the tire with a marker, so you know where to insert the self-drilling screw. make sure the screws go in all the way and they are centered in the tread. i used a piece of 2x4" lumber, as the backing when doing all the hole punching into the tire.

    Studded Dillinger are what, $250 each? I got 500 (#8x3/8" #140 stainless self-drilling) screws from Albany Fasteners for $25, and the sealant from Home Depot for $9. $35 investment vs $400-500. I'll take those odds.

    Framed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-img_0273.jpgFramed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-img_0269.jpgFramed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-img_0279.jpgFramed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-img_0303.jpgFramed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-img_0290.jpgFramed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-img_0341.jpgFramed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-img_0377.jpgFramed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-img_0261.jpg

  96. #396
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    Hi gang. Enjoyed all your posts. I just turned 60 and this was my reward. Sand is brutal. Yes, FB should have provided a better rear cassette selection as 32 just doesn't cut it. FYI, I roll 4 psi rear, 3.5 upfront to walk across the soft sand and get superior traction up those 15% dune slopes. That gives the rear tire a slight wrinkle. Sucks on rolling resistance. The salt/sand/water is very hard on metals. Standard rinse & blow dry, lube touch up several times a week. May go to paraffin treatment. Love the bike. I'll eventually go tubeless 'cause nails in beach driftwood. 4.8 rear provides so little extra flotation... possibly not worth it. Losing 25 lbs a cheaper solution.

    Framed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-image.jpg

  97. #397
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    I got one coming!

  98. #398
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    Quote Originally Posted by aliG View Post
    150-200 studs per tire. keep the center 2 inches clear of studs. Better traction on pavement sections. Use weatherproof all-temperature silicon sealant...the kind used for outdoors sealing windows and doors....but get the kind that says "extra flex".... let that dry over night. then use lots of talcom/baby powder all around the inside of the tire, before adding in the tube and pumping the tire up. I went to 20 PSI and held it there for 8 hrs... then backed it down to 9 PSI to go snow and ice biking. I did 11 miles on hard pack and ice base, then did circuits around the outdoor pond rink, and it handled very well. QUICK braking. and Standing/balancing starts were very easy. Power slides on the ice really tore it up. 3-4 solid scars in the ice, and the bike stayed in control with that install tread pattern.

    when you go to install the screws, poke a hole through the tread center from the outside to inside, with either a nail, or a tool used for poking holes in things. once its through. mark the inside of the tire with a marker, so you know where to insert the self-drilling screw. make sure the screws go in all the way and they are centered in the tread. i used a piece of 2x4" lumber, as the backing when doing all the hole punching into the tire.

    Studded Dillinger are what, $250 each? I got 500 (#8x3/8" #140 stainless self-drilling) screws from Albany Fasteners for $25, and the sealant from Home Depot for $9. $35 investment vs $400-500. I'll take those odds.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    awesome job. and great post. very detailed. thank you.

  99. #399
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADKMTNBIKER View Post
    awesome job. and great post. very detailed. thank you.
    Thanks! I am glad it was helpful to you, and hopefully others as well.

    I found that I added more spikes to the front wheel....outside most tread... I added additional spikes every forth tread on both sides, to get better turning traction. This is the hole punch tool I used. I got it out of a PC repair kit.

    Framed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-img_0394.jpg

    AliG

  100. #400
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    I was out riding last Sunday morning. We had 2 degrees and -15 wind chills here and lots of snow and ice. Managed to do 8.2 miles on wide track. Today morning it was much warmer at 22 and I did only about 4 miles on single track but there was way too much ice. Some sections I had no choice but walk the bike.

    NEED STUDS!!!

    So now looking to make my own or just buy ready made.

    I was going to get VEE Snowshoe 4.5 and install my own studs.

    Grip Studs 150 pack is $140 and I think I would need about 120 studs per tire + the tool + a set of tires.

    Its more economical to buy the ready made XL at $335 a set. Assuming the XL will fit.

    Snowshoe XL | VEE Tire Co.

    Anyone fitted the VEE Studded Snowshoe XL which is 4.8 wide?

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