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  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by wildskycomet View Post
    I didn't think the fatboy had wider stays. Thought they were 170 hubs? Ordered 3 for 190 hub thinking that would help make difference. Is fatboy rim 90 0r 100? Is that what allows Lou? 3's are 80's, no? Does that make a difference w/tire and clearance?
    The Fatboys I saw at my LBS seemed to have pretty wide chainstays. The shop employee told me that they would fit up to 5” wide tires. Any extra clearance would be appreciated running 4.8” tires on these super fat bikes, especially accounting for wheel flex.
    Also, I would think the wider the rim, the less the tire will bulge. I too was wondering if a wider rim would help with tire rub.

  2. #202
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    Quote Originally Posted by x3speed View Post
    So what would you run in back to get similar grip, but no rub.
    For snow riding I don’t think there is an equivalent tire to the Lou for grip and propulsion. It is amazing!

  3. #203
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    Quote Originally Posted by wildskycomet View Post
    I didn't think the fatboy had wider stays. Thought they were 170 hubs? Ordered 3 for 190 hub thinking that would help make difference. Is fatboy rim 90 0r 100? Is that what allows Lou? 3's are 80's, no? Does that make a difference w/tire and clearance?
    Fatboy is a 190mm hub with a 90mm rim. The narrower 80mm rim would make the tire slightly taller, but not sure if that would be enough to cause rubbing. The Lou is a big volume tire and larger than the Dillinger 5 in terms of casing size and width. If the Lou is a tight fit, the D5 may fit, but I'd want to try at a dealer before I spent $250 on a tire.
    '17 Cutthroat
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  4. #204
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mindsai View Post
    I have the 20” size frame.
    What size frame do you normally ride? I usually ride a 19 or 20, but based on the ETT of these frames I should be on a 22.

  5. #205
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    Quote Originally Posted by Captain_America1976 View Post
    What size frame do you normally ride? I usually ride a 19 or 20, but based on the ETT of these frames I should be on a 22.
    I normally ride an XL frame on my Santa Cruz bikes. I am 6’ 2” with long arms so I like a long top tube, paired with a short stem. However, the stand over height on the 22” wouldn’t work for me since I only have a 32” inseam. Unless you have very long legs, a 22” bike will not have enough clearance for the boys, especially in deeper snow. To get the right reach, I used a “longer” 60mm stem and put the seat pretty far back on the rails. The smaller bike feels surprisingly nimble but I would trade that for a longer top tube any day.

  6. #206
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    yah think? To revisit... Lou could work w/side knob shaving? Or, "we" have to start considering best tire for "blank" condition for each bike? Yeah, Lou's are best for snow, but not for 3's? (still haven't received mine yet... tracking # not working, so all speculative at best)

  7. #207
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    If rim width has that effect (narrower is taller) wouldn't that work better for 3? Sacrifice spread/squat width (few mm's) to fit in frame w/out rub?

  8. #208
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    nates?

  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by wildskycomet View Post
    yah think? To revisit... Lou could work w/side knob shaving? Or, "we" have to start considering best tire for "blank" condition for each bike? Yeah, Lou's are best for snow, but not for 3's? (still haven't received mine yet... tracking # not working, so all speculative at best)
    I wish there was a better answer than sanding down the side knobs on the Lou or running a smaller tire like the Nate. For what’s it worth, I didn’t have to do that much sanding to make it work but YMMV. My worry is bending the rim and having to walk my bike out of the woods since the clearance is so tight. Like I said, I don’t know if a wider, 90mm or 100mm rim would help with the tire shape. I will try to post a picture of the stay clearances tonight so others can speculate.

    I bought this bike to specifically run a Bud and Lou so I am pretty disappointed that Framed drop the ball with this design flaw.

  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mindsai View Post
    I wish there was a better answer than sanding down the side knobs on the Lou or running a smaller tire like the Nate. For what’s it worth, I didn’t have to do that much sanding to make it work but YMMV. My worry is bending the rim and having to walk my bike out of the woods since the clearance is so tight. Like I said, I don’t know if a wider, 90mm or 100mm rim would help with the tire shape. I will try to post a picture of the stay clearances tonight so others can speculate.

    I bought this bike to specifically run a Bud and Lou so I am pretty disappointed that Framed drop the ball with this design flaw.
    Other potential downside is that over time your Lou tire will likely stretch slightly making it a few mm bigger, which could cause clearance issues all over again.
    '17 Cutthroat
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  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paochow View Post
    Other potential downside is that over time your Lou tire will likely stretch slightly making it a few mm bigger, which could cause clearance issues all over again.
    Dang, I didn't know that. This might be an ongoing source of frustration. Good thing I have lots of sand paper... *bangs head*

  12. #212
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    Here is a pic of the tire clearance with the Lou. The red arrows mark where it rubbed the chainstay.
    Framed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-lou-3.0.jpg

  13. #213
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    Wonder if a snowshoe 4.7 or nate is the best option from here
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  14. #214
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    with mud, snow, ice build up.. I would say sell the Lou and buy a Nate...

  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by x3speed View Post
    Wonder if a snowshoe 4.7 or nate is the best option from here
    I also like the looks for the Specialized Ground Control 4.6". They are pretty beefy and would probably make good snow tires.

  16. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mindsai View Post
    I also like the looks for the Specialized Ground Control 4.6". They are pretty beefy and would probably make good snow tires.
    My buddy is picking up his 2015 Fatboy today and will hit snow soon. I'll keep you posted.

  17. #217
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    My drive side crank pedal broke out of the crank arm threads about 4 miles into my first ride. Maybe I should have had it professionally installed, LOL. It felt like they just snapped on a small climb. I instantly felt the pedal alignment being off. Doesn't look like Framed/The-house is going to be of any help on this issue. The crank does appear to be the lowest spec and overweight part on the bike. Suggestions for fixing it? New crank or threaded insert?Race face Turbine or SRAM X5? Will the external bearing BB of these aftermarket cranks fit?

  18. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcracer2 View Post
    My drive side crank pedal broke out of the crank arm threads about 4 miles into my first ride. Maybe I should have had it professionally installed, LOL. It felt like they just snapped on a small climb. I instantly felt the pedal alignment being off. Doesn't look like Framed/The-house is going to be of any help on this issue. The crank does appear to be the lowest spec and overweight part on the bike. Suggestions for fixing it? New crank or threaded insert?Race face Turbine or SRAM X5? Will the external bearing BB of these aftermarket cranks fit?
    still waiting... not very inspiring. Poor threads? Bad pedal?

  19. #219
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    Quote Originally Posted by wildskycomet View Post
    still waiting... not very inspiring. Poor threads? Bad pedal?
    I would say bad threads but the material doesn't look to be that great, which is why the upgrade is likely for me to get the higher grade 6061, 6066 or 7075 material.

    I just wanted to post here so others can take note to be aware in case it is a bigger quality issue, and to make sure they have their pedals professionally installed.

  20. #220
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    Capt OCD here... all this conjecture to keep anxiety at bey while I wait still... living vicariously thru all of you... Remember I said they were shipping bike 11/24? Tracking number not working? Someone at House just said, "oh sorry, didn't get put on truck". Wicked pissed!!! Ignore the rant... hoping for no quality issues... not planning on ordering a Bud (tho that was a reason that bike was selected... take a good expensive tire and sand it down?)

  21. #221
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADKMTNBIKER View Post
    where did you order your 3.0 from?
    got it from the-house.com

  22. #222
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    I was quite excited to make it back home from work after UPS delivered the bike. Soon after getting home I started unpacking and putting it together.

    First impression, not so good, I expected higher quality parts. I know, its a $1000 bike and the part are mostly all listed but I guess I'm used to much higher end stuff.

    The good

    Looks great, I like the finish of the frame
    Low price

    The bad

    Brakes are junk at least comparing to my XT They just do not work well at all, you have to really press on the levers to stop quick. Very little stopping power. Lots of noise but need to brake them in I guess. I tried aligning the calipers to minimize noise when the wheel turns but can't get it right. I think the rotors are not straight. Need more time on that but for sure I will get at least SLX brakes.

    Rims, the front rim is not very well joined where cut. I expected not to even see the connection. The wheels need truing as the are quite off.

    Shifting is not the greatest. I need to adjust the cable tension as the chain jumps over some chain rings. I'm used to my XT/XTR setup and this feels very low end. Not sure if I will be doing any upgrades at least for now.

    Crank / BB - again low end stuff

    Pedals - they added free set which was very nice of them, I like the look but a little thick comparing to my 11mm platforms. The spinning is very bad on them.

    Seat, its ok based on short riding but will be changing to another one I have around.

    Reflectors - what? why did they put that stuff on?

    Overall I like the bike and need to spend some time on it before I can say anything about handling but I expected the parts to feel a bit higher end but then again its not a $6k bike

    Framed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-20141202_181404_resized.jpg

  23. #223
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    Update on the rear tire: I went ahead a bought a Ground Control tire for the rear and I am really happy with it. It has plenty of clearance and great traction. I will save the Lou for deeper snow conditions.

    I too had shifting troubles initially with the stock X7 drivetrain, even after making sure everything was adjusted properly. Strangely, after I got a few rides in it works pretty well now. The brakes work fine but I made sure to do a proper burn-in before I took it on the trail for the first time. Still, I would still greatly prefer SLX components to the X7.

  24. #224
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    Still waiting... "Forgot" to put on truck after charging me. Sent it this week and tracking finally, but after saying bikes just in(?!). So much for World Fat Day! Supposed to arrive Tuesday. Sounds like they're shipping w/32's in rear. Was hoping w/36 might not have to consider mods like wolfs tooth or chainrings. Sounds like they're saying TS. We can change specs(?!). Note new ones on site now. Different than 9/4 when ordered

  25. #225
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    Quote Originally Posted by wildskycomet View Post
    Still waiting... "Forgot" to put on truck after charging me. Sent it this week and tracking finally, but after saying bikes just in(?!). So much for World Fat Day! Supposed to arrive Tuesday. Sounds like they're shipping w/32's in rear. Was hoping w/36 might not have to consider mods like wolfs tooth or chainrings. Sounds like they're saying TS. We can change specs(?!). Note new ones on site now. Different than 9/4 when ordered
    Crap. This is supposed to be my kid's holiday present. We stayed away from the 2.0 with 9 speed harwdware specifically because of the 11-36 capability. A cassette is still cheaper than half of the drivetrain, but this is getting annoying. My kid just doesn't have the legs to ride a fat bike in the winter without gears.

  26. #226
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    Quote Originally Posted by wildskycomet View Post
    Still waiting... "Forgot" to put on truck after charging me. Sent it this week and tracking finally, but after saying bikes just in(?!). So much for World Fat Day! Supposed to arrive Tuesday. Sounds like they're shipping w/32's in rear. Was hoping w/36 might not have to consider mods like wolfs tooth or chainrings. Sounds like they're saying TS. We can change specs(?!). Note new ones on site now. Different than 9/4 when ordered
    Thanks for confirming that, I thought it was supposed to be a 36t.

  27. #227
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    Any confirmation on widest tire on rear?
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  28. #228
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    I managed to fit a Shimano XT to the front. The mounting post seems to be not quite correct, and I ended up having to space the rotor out from the hub with a single set of washers to get everything to align correctly.

    Are there any potential problems with doing this?
    Aussie in Chicagoland (what's all this white stuff?)

  29. #229
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcracer2 View Post
    Thanks for confirming that, I thought it was supposed to be a 36t.
    specs of "early" models on page 1 of this thread

  30. #230
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    Quote Originally Posted by mojoB View Post
    I managed to fit a Shimano XT to the front. The mounting post seems to be not quite correct, and I ended up having to space the rotor out from the hub with a single set of washers to get everything to align correctly.

    Are there any potential problems with doing this?
    I don't see why, as long as it aligns ok then you should be fine. My XT brake set and rotors are on the way. I could test with my XT set from my other bike but I will wait

  31. #231
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    Re: Framed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork


    Can't wait to try it out tonight! Just in time for tomorrow.

  32. #232
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mindsai View Post
    Here is a pic of the tire clearance with the Lou. The red arrows mark where it rubbed the chainstay.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Is that square taper?

  33. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by djrez4 View Post
    Is that square taper?
    Yes it is.

    The amount of flex coming from the crank arms is unnerving since I am a clyde. Does anyone know of a better, stiffer crankset that will work with the 3.0?

  34. #234
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    I was talking with a tech about switching out the cranks last week and he suggested the FSA COMET
    FSA Comet Fat Bike 100mm - BB Standard - FSA

  35. #235
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    BFD... Another person gets their new bike... Mr Whiner Cranky Pants got his 3 finally. Tracking was working but said delivered(?!), as I stood in driveway knowing ups hadn't been by yet (I'm on regular route, so they wave to me on tractor on way by). Moments later they pulled in. Way better looking than photos! Really should trim off a lot of that cable housing length, but couldn't wait to get in snow w/lights. Hadn't thought I'd need to cut down Bluto, so not on yet. Previous questions re:shock involved bearing races. No one mentioned trimming steerer tube to length. Will take it to shop buddies v basement workshop. Comes w/32 rear. That'll have to change for this girlie man. What're folks changing chainrings to? Forgot way earlier posts. 22/36? Comes 28/38. Maybe just try a 24 to start?

  36. #236
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    Much to my irritation, my steer tube was cut at the factory. I'm 6'3" and wish I had a taller handlebar set up
    2014 Singular Gryphon
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    2005 Jamis Dakar XC Expert
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  37. #237
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADKMTNBIKER View Post
    I was talking with a tech about switching out the cranks last week and he suggested the FSA COMET
    FSA Comet Fat Bike 100mm - BB Standard - FSA
    I thought with the new 190mm rear hub, we need more of a 120mm BB?

  38. #238
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    Also, hello.

    First fatbike. Future upgrades are a 1x10, new brakes, and a couple new forks.

    So far having a blast on this thing:


  39. #239
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    Picking up my 3.0 today. Been riding a 2.0 demo for a while and have really enjoyed the new Framed 4.0 tires at low pressure. I am a little concerned about giving up snow float and traction with the narrow tread width on the H-Billie tires?? 2.0 was set up with a 22/32/38 up front and an 11-34 in rear. Stock is way to high in any amount of snow with hills. My 3.0 has a 22/32 up front and an 11-36 in rear now.

    Thoughts on the tires?

    Most importantly: What did you do to get off the white logo???

    looks great.

  40. #240
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    Quote Originally Posted by WesternMD View Post
    Picking up my 3.0 today. Been riding a 2.0 demo for a while and have really enjoyed the new Framed 4.0 tires at low pressure. I am a little concerned about giving up snow float and traction with the narrow tread width on the H-Billie tires?? 2.0 was set up with a 22/32/38 up front and an 11-34 in rear. Stock is way to high in any amount of snow with hills. My 3.0 has a 22/32 up front and an 11-36 in rear now.

    Thoughts on the tires?

    Most importantly: What did you do to get off the white logo???

    looks great.
    I think the H-Billies are wider then the Framed tires. Sidewall says they are 4.25.

    I have about 20 miles on her so far, and I am still experimenting with tire pressure. I find the 10psi in front eliminates the self steer, and 7-8psi in the rear give me all the traction I need. I have been riding the same trail as I do in the summer, and was able to clear everything, so I am happy! I'm pretty happy with the tires. But we haven't had hardpack deep snow here yet. We are getting a snow storm now, so this weekend I can test more!

    As far as the Branding... I just used black matte vinyl. It blends perfectly to the matte frame. Can't even tell the vinyl is on there. I kinda thought the "Framed" graphics felt a little dated (I'm a designer by trade)...
    Spot Rocker
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  41. #241
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    Thanks
    Tires are about the same casing volume but the tread is a full 100mm on the Framed tires and only 86mm wide on the H-Billies. I have been running low pressure and using the entire tread width in the snow.

    I was planning on the using vinyl as well and considered making traditional "panels" with gloss black to cover it up or even just coloring over the white with a charcoal grey automotive paint pen to make it much more subtle.

    I was hoping that you had found the guts to try acetone or ammonia to remove just the white without damaging the black paint. It is all under the clear on the gloss frames.

  42. #242
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    Quote Originally Posted by wildskycomet View Post
    Still waiting... "Forgot" to put on truck after charging me. Sent it this week and tracking finally, but after saying bikes just in(?!). So much for World Fat Day! Supposed to arrive Tuesday. Sounds like they're shipping w/32's in rear. Was hoping w/36 might not have to consider mods like wolfs tooth or chainrings. Sounds like they're saying TS. We can change specs(?!). Note new ones on site now. Different than 9/4 when ordered
    32T? WTF?!? That's false advertising. I still have a catalog that says 36T

  43. #243
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    yup. After all the waiting and delays you still don't get what you ordered....

  44. #244
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    I have a 16" 3.0XL on order from a shop. I'm going to kindly request that they honor the catalog specs. and switch out the freewheel for a 36T one. If it comes with a 32T. If they won't I may have to bag Framed all together and go with the Fatboy I've been eying.

  45. #245
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    I ordered through my LBS as well and they gladly swapped out the rings and cassette for me as an even trade. I try to support my local LBS and they have stepped up to support me on this bike. We had discussed the chainrings prior to ordering but the cassette was unplanned. We are also working on how to swap my son's Mini-Sota over to a 22/32 if it ever arrives.

  46. #246
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    Quote Originally Posted by tedo View Post
    I thought with the new 190mm rear hub, we need more of a 120mm BB?
    It appears that Framed designed the 3.0 to use the standard 100mm BB. I like the looks of the FSA Comet crankset that ADKMTNBIKER mentioned. Also the SRAM X.5 GXP crankset got good reviews for stiffness.

  47. #247
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    I just got a Motobecane Boris X9 Bluto. I'd like to trade the Bluto (brand new take off) for a Framed Alaskan carbon fork. It looks to be one of the only 150mm hub spaced carbon forks. Send me a message if you're interested.

  48. #248
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    The Framed Alaskan's use a 100mm suspension corrected Bluto...your Motobecane came with a 120mm.

  49. #249
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    That is true. However, someone may still be interested because the 20mm (.78") changes the geometry how they prefer, or because it can be easily reduced. The bluto's are all the same fork, just different spacers and tokens for different travel.

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    have the Framed MInnesota 3.0 bikes that have already arrived, come with a Type 2 RD?

  51. #251
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    I believe I've read that they come with a non type-2 SRAM X7 from some of the owners on the Facebook group.
    Current bikes:
    2015 Framed Alaskan Carbon
    2015 Framed Alaskan Alloy
    2012 Trek Superfly 100 AL Pro
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  52. #252
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    Yep. Standard non clutch. Same BB and Crank as 2.0 but with a BB spacer added to the drive side. White graphics are a decal that is applied UNDER the matte clearcoat so it is impossible to remove easily. Two water bottle bosses, not one. Graphics are now centered on the downtube and not shifted down like the early pics. Rims are drilled with larger holes than the 2.0 and have sealed bearings in the hubs. Bike was shipped with a 32T cassette. Initial observation that the Brake cable housing is made of rubber and has a ton of compression even though it is full length. Cold temps also seem to make the cable drag excessive on the brakes perhaps from some lube? or just the crappy housing liner. I am planning to flush them with silicone spray and see if that frees them up a bit. Personally, the frame geometry is more to my liking on the 3.0 the 2.0 is very tall and very short as noted in Framed's descriptions. The 16" 3.0 has a seat tube that is 3" shorter and a longer toptube than the 18" 2.0. Way better standover for those of use that have been blessed with short inseams and long torso anatomy. Weather has been horrific so little time actually riding it so far.

  53. #253
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    WesternMD, thanks for all the info on the 3.0 bike.

    if you figure out how to get the brakes to work better, please let us know.

  54. #254
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    I have a question about the tires on the 3.0 and the 2.0. The FRAMED 4.0 tires or the Vee Rubber H-Billie. I will have an option to pick my tire to go on my 3.0, the Framed 4.0 or the Vee Rubber H-Billie. After seeing the Framed 4.0 and the Vee Rubber, I really like the looks of the 4.0 better but I know nothing about these tires. I have been on the 4.0 but not the Vee Rubber, I will not be able to try them out and then pick. I will have to pick and stay with the ones I pick. I live in Nebraska if that helps, yes we get some snow but I would think I would do more dirt riding then snow riding only because of the amount of snow we get.
    ????

    Thanks for any and all info !!

  55. #255
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    I picked up my 3.0 rigid model a couple days ago from The House. It's a great fat bike for sure! My impression of the build was meh after taking a commute to work on it (just couldn't wait!). You can tell these are "assembled" rather than truly wrenched by an experience mechanic. This isn't a big deal to me given the price of the bike though - just letting everyone know what to possibly expect.

    For starters the headset started knocking when off the saddle, then the bottom bracket ticked horribly. I removed the fork enough to get some Park Polylube on the crown race(completely dry) and headset cartridge areas.

    I then pulled the crank off (not exactly tight either) and proceeded to remove the BB(sigh...again loose and completely dry). There's also a plastic spacer on the drive side. I'm going to see about replacing it with a metal one in order to tighten down the BB a bit more. Until then the plastic spacer will have to suffice.

    Framed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-photogrid_1418442851210.jpg

    Also the Framed pedals were not very tight and also dry (freebies and just average btw). After my version of a tune-up everything is nearly perfect.

    Overall it's a excellent fat bike for the money. And if you want to tinker with upgrades you can have some fun there. It's worth mentioning all of my other bikes have Shimano, so this is my first time using SRAM. X7 is no where near as crisp and precise as my XT setup, but then again, X7 is not at that caliber.

    Bottom line. Check all the bolts for proper torque, lube the usual noisy areas, make a few BB7 adjustment clicks(way too mushy to begin with), and you'll be set. Now it's mechanically very quiet and performs phenomenally. Enjoy!

  56. #256
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    Anyone else try to fit a bud or a snowshoe 4.8 xl in this frame I'm hoping the 1 users experience is a fluke
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  57. #257
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    Quote Originally Posted by zipsterific View Post
    I picked up my 3.0 rigid model a couple days ago from The House. It's a great fat bike for sure! My impression of the build was meh after taking a commute to work on it (just couldn't wait!). You can tell these are "assembled" rather than truly wrenched by an experience mechanic. This isn't a big deal to me given the price of the bike though - just letting everyone know what to possibly expect.

    For starters the headset started knocking when off the saddle, then the bottom bracket ticked horribly. I removed the fork enough to get some Park Polylube on the crown race(completely dry) and headset cartridge areas.

    I then pulled the crank off (not exactly tight either) and proceeded to remove the BB(sigh...again loose and completely dry). There's also a plastic spacer on the drive side. I'm going to see about replacing it with a metal one in order to tighten down the BB a bit more. Until then the plastic spacer will have to suffice.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Also the Framed pedals were not very tight and also dry (freebies and just average btw). After my version of a tune-up everything is nearly perfect.

    Overall it's a excellent fat bike for the money. And if you want to tinker with upgrades you can have some fun there. It's worth mentioning all of my other bikes have Shimano, so this is my first time using SRAM. X7 is no where near as crisp and precise as my XT setup, but then again, X7 is not at that caliber.

    Bottom line. Check all the bolts for proper torque, lube the usual noisy areas, make a few BB7 adjustment clicks(way too mushy to begin with), and you'll be set. Now it's mechanically very quiet and performs phenomenally. Enjoy!
    terrific post! I'll def. check it over before taking it out for a serious ride. Thanks for the info.
    Last edited by ADKMTNBIKER; 12-15-2014 at 11:06 PM.

  58. #258
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mindsai View Post
    With some additional sanding and wheel truing I got rid of the chain stay wheel rub with the Lou. I am sure during certain circumstances it will still rub the stays when the wheel flexes laterally under load but I can live with that.

    Do you think the Bud would fit in the back with no alterations? Would you check for me?

  59. #259
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    Yes please. Otherwise I may need to go jumbo jim, snowshe 4.7 or nate
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  60. #260
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADKMTNBIKER View Post
    Do you think the Bud would fit in the back with no alterations? Would you check for me?
    The Bud and Lou are the same width so you would have clearance issues with the Bud too. See this thread on true fat bike tire sizes for comparison: forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/true-tire-size-thread-894949.html

    I decided to sell the Lou. Any kind of wet snow or mud is going to be a clearance problem and I am tired of thinking about it. I recently rode with a buddy and his Snowshoe XL had smaller treads than the Ground Control that I am currently running as a rear tire. The climbing traction with the GC was noticeably better than the Snowshoe XL too. The GC’s also have center paddle treads similar to the Lou but better rolling resistance. So far I couldn’t be happier with the GC but I haven’t tested it in deep snow yet.

  61. #261
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    Some updates:

    1x10 Conversion:
    • 11-36 Cassette
    • RaceFace 32t Chainring

    Cockpit:
    • 70mm RaceFace Stem
    • 785mm RaceFace Riser Bars
    • ODI Troy Lee Grips

    I also changed the front brake to an XT and Shimano Rotor, it feels much more positive than the BB7

    The seat is a Thule RideAlong. My little guy loved his muddy adventure today. It just barely fits around the stays, and the seat tube clamp is easier to get in place with the front derailleur removed.

    I'm pretty happy overall now. I was considering a one-up cog as well, but it doesn't seem necessary at this stage.

    I think the bars need to be about 40mm narrower, but that is easily fixed.
    Aussie in Chicagoland (what's all this white stuff?)

  62. #262
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    Finally spent some time on my new 3.0.

    Mods
    flat bar
    11-36
    22/32
    First set of flats since 1994!

    Beautiful cruise along the Presidential Rail Trail in the super snowy White Mountains of New Hampshire. Tons of snow. Snowmobile groomers should be out Monday opening up a bunch more rideable terrain.

    So far so good.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Framed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-20141213_105028.jpg  

    Framed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-20141213_103324.jpg  

    Framed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-20141213_103045.jpg  


  63. #263
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    Quote Originally Posted by WesternMD View Post
    Mods
    flat bar
    11-36
    22/32
    First set of flats since 1994!



    Beautiful cruise along the Presidential Rail Trail in the super snowy White Mountains of New Hampshire. Tons of snow. Snowmobile groomers should be out Monday opening up a bunch more rideable terrain.

    So far so good.
    what brand chainrings did you use? I'm looking to do a similar upgrade as soon as I get my 3.0.

    And did the flats give you a little more reach than the stock risers?

  64. #264
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Javorsky View Post
    I have a question about the tires on the 3.0 and the 2.0. The FRAMED 4.0 tires or the Vee Rubber H-Billie. I will have an option to pick my tire to go on my 3.0, the Framed 4.0 or the Vee Rubber H-Billie. After seeing the Framed 4.0 and the Vee Rubber, I really like the looks of the 4.0 better but I know nothing about these tires. I have been on the 4.0 but not the Vee Rubber, I will not be able to try them out and then pick. I will have to pick and stay with the ones I pick. I live in Nebraska if that helps, yes we get some snow but I would think I would do more dirt riding then snow riding only because of the amount of snow we get.
    ????

    Thanks for any and all info !!

    Can anyone help me out with tires ?? Please read my question above.

    Thanks

  65. #265
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    I used some alloy Origin 8 rings with a plastic gravity 32t bash. Nothing fancy. Bars sit pretty high with headtube length and riser stem. All of my bikes run bars below seat. Could have flopped stem or moved spacers but my dealer had a flat bar from a 2.0 with a little more sweep. Same width at 710mm. I am trying a shorter reach with wider bars than I have run for many years. Both sets of bars came in at about 300 grams. I installed gloss metallic black vinyl panels over the white graphics and I think it looks a lot better.

  66. #266
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    Converted mine to a 1x10. So far I love it. Will most likely upgrade the cassette to a 11-36 for a bit more range. However like it is now, I rode up everything today.

    The H-Billies actually climb surprisingly well. I aired it down to 5psi because we have a bunch of soft snow here. They just gripped like crazy.

    We have the most beautiful conditions right now in Vermont:

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  67. #267
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    Quote Originally Posted by tedo View Post
    Converted mine to a 1x10. So far I love it. Will most likely upgrade the cassette to a 11-36 for a bit more range. However like it is now, I rode up everything today.

    The H-Billies actually climb surprisingly well. I aired it down to 5psi because we have a bunch of soft snow here. They just gripped like crazy.

    We have the most beautiful conditions right now in Vermont:

    which crankset did you go with?

  68. #268
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    Absolutely beautiful. May I ask what size, brand chainring you used & did you use shorter bolts or stock with tab spacers? Thanks.

  69. #269
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADKMTNBIKER View Post
    which crankset did you go with?
    Quote Originally Posted by spc2000 View Post
    Absolutely beautiful. May I ask what size, brand chainring you used & did you use shorter bolts or stock with tab spacers? Thanks.
    Raceface wide narrow 32t on stock crank arms and BB. Cheap way to covert to a 1x10.

    Single chain ring bolts, no tab spacers with the 32t.
    Spot Rocker
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  70. #270
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Javorsky View Post
    Can anyone help me out with tires ?? Please read my question above.

    Thanks
    I wouldn't stress on the decision I have ridden both and I would not pick a hands down winner. I think they will each shine on certain days and trail conditions. Firm dirt H-Billie. Soft dirt and snow Framed. But not a remarkable difference.

  71. #271
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    Quote Originally Posted by tedo View Post
    Raceface wide narrow 32t on stock crank arms and BB. Cheap way to covert to a 1x10.

    Single chain ring bolts, no tab spacers with the 32t.

    I'm looking to change out the front rings with a 22/36 setup like my 29er, and go with and 11/36 in the rear.

  72. #272
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    I do like the look of the 1x10. I just don't think the gearing is low enough.

  73. #273
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    I was thinking that, gearing not being low enough. Thought about 30t with 11/36 but I'm leaning toward 32t with 11/36 & if needed get a oneup 40 or 42t. As many have said, it does depend on where you ride. Just trying to find that sweet spot.

  74. #274
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    So far, 140 miles on the 3.0

    - switched out rigid fork, for the bluto. I like that setup better.
    - switched the 710mm bars and 110mm stem, for 785/60. I think it feels better to ride with wider bars and shorter stem. I read about people doing that to the On-One, and liked it there.
    - 38/28 11-32 gearing is too high. Need to lower it down for where I ride. The last 8 miles is always uphill. I think this bike should have come with at least x/24 11-36t.
    - switched to compressionless brake cable housing, and that made a significant difference in how the brakes worked. They also needed an initial wear-in period.

    Does anyone have suggested tire pressures for hard pack, mud and snow, with the H-Billies?
    Last edited by nzxt; 12-23-2014 at 07:19 PM.

  75. #275
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    Quote Originally Posted by WesternMD View Post
    I used some alloy Origin 8 rings with a plastic gravity 32t bash. Nothing fancy. Bars sit pretty high with headtube length and riser stem. All of my bikes run bars below seat. Could have flopped stem or moved spacers but my dealer had a flat bar from a 2.0 with a little more sweep. Same width at 710mm. I am trying a shorter reach with wider bars than I have run for many years. Both sets of bars came in at about 300 grams. I installed gloss metallic black vinyl panels over the white graphics and I think it looks a lot better.
    Where'd you get/order chainrings?

  76. #276
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    My 3.0 rigid box showed up last night - just in time with all the snow we're getting.

    I haven't had time yet to finish putting it together, but a quick look in the box last night (and forgive me for a potentially dumb question) show what looks a thru-axle in the rigid fork but w/o any quick release and I didn't see a 15mmQR axle packed anywhere else.

    Is there supposed to be a QR axle in the box and the thru-axle in the fork now is only for shipping?
    Or is that the axle to use with the wheel? If so, how is it removed. Didn't look like a common Allen-key size.

  77. #277
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    I just swapped my rings out to some standard style raceface 22/32 I had sitting around and just shift the front ring which seems to work well on my local trails b/c there are quick elevation changes. The 1x takes too many shifts to get the gear change I want.

  78. #278
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    Quote Originally Posted by wildskycomet View Post
    Where'd you get/order chainrings?
    LBS ordered through one of the big suppliers... However, DO NOT GET THEM. They have shift pins on them but no flares on the inside of the 32 ring like shimano, truvativ or sram rings. The narrow 10sp chain can just sit on the top/outside of the 22 and not drop down and engage. The chain plates ride perfectly on the top of the 22t ring teeth during a down shift if you are in any of the six harder gears of the cassette. It is not a FD issue but a ring design issue. There is too much dead space between the chainrings. I thought I blew my freehub the first time it happened as you spin the crank and there is nothing. Weird set up. If the FD is set to force the shift it will rub in many gear combinations. Ring will be replaced soon.

  79. #279
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    saw FSA 22's and Raceface 32's on Price point (smallest Raceface was 24). Consider 22/34?

  80. #280
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    nobody answer yet...? That's the thru axle. Bigger than normal Allen BUT notice the small allen lock on the bottom of the fork leg where you unscrew the thru axle. Saw that comment from someone earlier. Forgot and wondered why so "sticky coming out. Doh! Thrilled to see that Alien had one to fit the thru axle on the trail instead of lugging larger iron. Be nice to put Bluto on w/quick(er) release.

  81. #281
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    Quote Originally Posted by wildskycomet View Post
    nobody answer yet...? That's the thru axle. Bigger than normal Allen BUT notice the small allen lock on the bottom of the fork leg where you unscrew the thru axle. Saw that comment from someone earlier. Forgot and wondered why so "sticky coming out. Doh! Thrilled to see that Alien had one to fit the thru axle on the trail instead of lugging larger iron. Be nice to put Bluto on w/quick(er) release.
    thanks! that's what i wanted to hear. Hopefully I get a chance to unbox it tonight and give it a quick spin.

  82. #282
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    Nice green tag! VMBA member or day ticket?

  83. #283
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    Quote Originally Posted by dariusf View Post
    Brakes are junk at least comparing to my XT They just do not work well at all, you have to really press on the levers to stop quick. Very little stopping power. Lots of noise but need to brake them in I guess. I tried aligning the calipers to minimize noise when the wheel turns but can't get it right. I think the rotors are not straight. Need more time on that but for sure I will get at least SLX brakes.
    I've changed the rear brake cable out for Jagwire and that's made a big difference to the feel and power. It's not as nice as the XT brake and rotor on the front though
    Aussie in Chicagoland (what's all this white stuff?)

  84. #284
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    Update

    With the busy schedule and all the projects to finish up before the end of the year, I finally managed to get the bike on the trail this past Sunday.

    http://goo.gl/maps/KfqSx

    I was also out of the biking for about two months after a bad landing off a jump which resulted in 'inelegant' landing and small fracturing of my wrist so my riding will be on the slower more laid back side for a while.

    Most of the single track is 'closed' as its just too wet. I started out with my neighbor trail buddy and it ended up being the usual 3 hour ride. This consisted of ~0.5 mile of blacktop to get to the forest preserves, ~12 miles of wide track with compacted gravel surface and ~6 miles of single track. It also included a couple steep descents and climbs, about a mile of gradual climbs and some obstacles like roots, logs, and rocks to get over. Not the usual technical trails but better then just riding around the neighborhood

    My expectations for this bike based on the build and couple loops around the neighborhood were not very high comparing to my higher end build Ibis SLR.

    Well I have to say I was BLOWN AWAY in a very good way First, this bike moves, given the tires and low end drive train I expected it to be slow and sluggish but it turned out that it rolls really well in all the surface conditions. Climbs in general including one of the more steep longer climbs with sections between 30-40 degrees did not pose much of a challenge (and I'm out of shape due to the crash).

    I started out with ~12 psi and over the ride dropped it to about ~5psi. I just ordered a 30psi Meiser gauge to get more precision with these low pressures. The big tires especially at lower psi did quite well over the obstacles although it was quite bumpy on the rocky sections and getting over couple larger rocks and logs. Here a suspension fork will definitely help and I'm considering getting one. I did order a carbon handlebar to help a little.

    The bike is also quite agile and maneuverable and the traction of the big tires is superb.

    Getting the bike in the air is challenging and I will need more time the get a good feel of it. I'm used to a full suspension to help with bunny hops over rocks and logs. While the big tires do help, it is in a limited way.

    Drive train, well for the money you do get quite a bit but you have to accept that overall its a lower end setup. I massed with the shifting to try to get it better and still have some adjustments to do especially after the first ride and cables stretching. It is a bit loud and rough shifting comparing to my XT/XTR setup that I'm used to but it is expacted and gets the job done. Bottom bracket and cranks are a bit low end. You can also tell that the hubs are low end and I miss the quicker engagement but then I'm not going to be riding the same technical trails as aggressively as on my other bike, at least for now

    Upgrades

    The very first thing I did was to replace the brakes and rotors with Shimano XT setup. I'm used to good hydraulic brakes and the ones that came with the bike had to go. Mechanical brakes just do not have the stopping power, responsiveness and control. It felt only slightly better then V brakes. I also switched out the saddle, grips and added quick release seat post clamp.

    I think I will leave the drive train as is for now as its a winter bike. I'm sure to be massing with chain rings up front and maybe even replace the bottom bracket and cranks.

    The new carbon handlebar is in the mail.

    Tubeless is definitely on the list assuming I can get a good reliable seal at ~5-6psi, mostly to shad some weight which will help getting this thing in the air.

    I'm sure there will be some more adjusting with maybe the stem length / raise to get better fit.

    I had several people comment in a positive way on the bike along the trails. My friend loved it and is hooked to get one for himself.

    Overall I'm very presently surprised with the bike specially at that price point and can't wait to log more time on it and for the snow

  85. #285
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    Re: Framed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork

    My new 3.0 with Bluto. First ride last night and love it. After breaking the frame on my 2.0 I was able to upgrade to the 3.0 and got it with the Bluto....

    Sent from my SGH-S959G using Tapatalk 2
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Framed Minnesota 3.0 with Bluto Fork & Rigid Fork-uploadfromtaptalk1418912729712.jpg  

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  86. #286
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    Ordered these. Brakes are bad. I know its the housing, but Hydros will be a lot nicer.

    Clarks Exo Skeletal Hydraulic Disc Brake | Chain Reaction Cycles
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  87. #287
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    Tubeless

    Anyone here did the conversion of the stock setup to tubeless?

    Any issues? extra taping? Stan's tape? Gorilla tape?

  88. #288
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    Working on that. I have American classic valves, stans goop, and Gorilla tape ready to roll. I also have clown shoe rims trips, but I do not think they are wide enough.
    2014 Singular Gryphon
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  89. #289
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Javorsky View Post
    My new 3.0 with Bluto. First ride last night and love it. After breaking the frame on my 2.0 I was able to upgrade to the 3.0 and got it with the Bluto....

    Sent from my SGH-S959G using Tapatalk 2
    Sweet! Planning my second ride on this bike (same color but rigid fork). Most likely a late evening ride as well as it get dark fast now. Only issue is the lock of leaves and easier for the cops to spot you

  90. #290
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    Quote Originally Posted by x3speed View Post
    Working on that. I have American classic valves, stans goop, and Gorilla tape ready to roll. I also have clown shoe rims trips, but I do not think they are wide enough.
    I guess due to the width of the rims you have to go with Gorilla tape unless there are tapes for wide rims. Need to research it. Can't wait for your feedback

  91. #291
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    Using the 2.88(3) inch gorilla tape. We will see!
    2014 Singular Gryphon
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    2014 Framed Minn. 3.0 Bluto

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  93. #293
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    I was reading up a bit and this method sounds good, mostly for the weight savings over the Gorilla tape

    Tubeless Fatbike Conversion Update | Cycles In Life

    Amazon has it for $5.88 per roll with free shippoing if you have prime.

  94. #294
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    Will this work? It's 175mm square taper but the crank arm offset doesn't seem to be enough compared to the stock crank. Could hit the chainstay?

    Amazon.com : Vuelta MTB Comp Crankset : Bike Cranksets And Accessories : Sports & Outdoors

  95. #295
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    Why? This is not an upgrade. Reviews look wonky.

  96. #296
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    Just a cheap way to get 32t. Remove the 44t, use stock chain guard.

  97. #297
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    I believe cheap is the operative word here. The shape and ramps/pins of the 32 will dictate how your two ring set up will shift. Just take the money and get some decent rings.

  98. #298
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    Quote Originally Posted by zipsterific View Post
    I picked up my 3.0 rigid model a couple days ago from The House. It's a great fat bike for sure! My impression of the build was meh after taking a commute to work on it (just couldn't wait!). You can tell these are "assembled" rather than truly wrenched by an experience mechanic. This isn't a big deal to me given the price of the bike though - just letting everyone know what to possibly expect.

    For starters the headset started knocking when off the saddle, then the bottom bracket ticked horribly. I removed the fork enough to get some Park Polylube on the crown race(completely dry) and headset cartridge areas.

    I then pulled the crank off (not exactly tight either) and proceeded to remove the BB(sigh...again loose and completely dry). There's also a plastic spacer on the drive side. I'm going to see about replacing it with a metal one in order to tighten down the BB a bit more. Until then the plastic spacer will have to suffice.

    Also the Framed pedals were not very tight and also dry (freebies and just average btw). After my version of a tune-up everything is nearly perfect.

    Overall it's a excellent fat bike for the money. And if you want to tinker with upgrades you can have some fun there. It's worth mentioning all of my other bikes have Shimano, so this is my first time using SRAM. X7 is no where near as crisp and precise as my XT setup, but then again, X7 is not at that caliber.

    Bottom line. Check all the bolts for proper torque, lube the usual noisy areas, make a few BB7 adjustment clicks(way too mushy to begin with), and you'll be set. Now it's mechanically very quiet and performs phenomenally. Enjoy!
    Had the same issue with my bottom bracket on my 2.0. Completely dry and creaking up a storm. Much better after some grease.

  99. #299
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    FYI
    I have been trying to get the tubeless setup working and I have found a key trouble spot. The rim seam is not sealed. My current attempt will involve using shoe-goo to seal that on the inside of the rim. The next step will be to use clear epoxy on the outside of the rim, which I obviously would like to avoid. I did check the tube weight during my attempts and the tubes I have are almost as light as the Surly lightweight tubes. I am doing it for the flat resistance primarily though.

  100. #300
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    Anyone order a set of the Bikes Direct 29" wheels?

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