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  1. #1
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    FATTY TUBELESS-ACTUAL WEIGHTS? and method?

    ANyone who has had excellent to perfect results with fatbike tubeless methods please respond.... Thank You!

    please, can we get some HONEST weights of tape, foam, weatherstripping, sealant, valve stems, ribbon, ribbon etc. ('honest weight' could be defined as "...I weighed this stuff on a digital postal scale reading out in grams...."...or some such real-world measurement that is not a guess or estimate).

    Also, what tubeless method or process did you use?

    Again, Thank You to those of you who've put in the effort to make this work.

    I would like to correlate the method and weight for future reference.

    PS...I'd like to stay on topic on this thread and keep it to weights and methods.......NOT a discussion of pros and cons of tube versus tubeless....if we possibly can
    Last edited by E6roller; 04-07-2013 at 12:20 PM.

  2. #2
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    NO weights but Uma 90's, Stans fat tape and sealant. Two winters now and not a bit of problems down to 3-4psi. Tires used where BFl's and Bud.
    And I love beer!!

  3. #3
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    its like your bike cant get any higher bdundee
    I am slow therefore I am

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    NO weights but Uma 90's, Stans fat tape and sealant. Two winters now and not a bit of problems down to 3-4psi. Tires used where BFl's and Bud.
    Thanks. We know what the 90's weigh. Your hub, spoke, and nipple choices...and brake disc choices, etc. retracted from the overall weight.....minus the published and/or real world weights of the BFL and Bud.....would net us a weight for stans prod...

    How much sealant are you using? That is likely the pertinent question if Stan's fat tape and sealant is all that is inside your BFL and Bud?!! No rim ribbon? no foam? Thanks for the answers! Cool to hear you've had zero problems down to 3-4!

  5. #5
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    I converted my front wheel to tubeless on my 2013 Mukluk. Stock weight with Larry, Toob, rim strip, Custom 1 3/8" drilled Darryl, and 203 mm rotor was 3695 grams. For tubeless, I added one layer of colored duct tape, two layers of packing tape over that, and a double wide layer of 2" Gorilla tape. I had two rolls of Gorilla tape and I prelaminated the double wide with about a half inch overlap before laying on the rim. This helped mitigate wrinkles and when it did wrinkle its less likely to leak since it wrinkles in unison. I didn't use any foam. I mounted a Larry with a toob and pumped up to 20 psi and let sit for 10 minutes to make sure tape was seated well and to also seat one side of the bead. I broke one side of the bead, removed tube leaving other side of tire beaded. I then put in a tubeless valve stem with the core removed. I sprayed about a half second of starting fluid into the tire and lit it with a match. The resulting explosion beaded the one side of the tire that wasn't previously. Now with both sides beaded up, I added 6 oz of homemade tubeless sealnt (WSS1). Aired right up with no leaks or adverse affects. Weight after conversion was 3460 grams, so I saved 235 grams. 6 oz of goo was 190 grams, and the tape was a little over 100 grams.

  6. #6
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    I have not weighed my Large Marge wheelset, but I did three wraps of gorilla tape, a Stan's valve with removable core, and about 4 scoops of Stan's sealant...

    I started with 3 scoops, but they needed to be pumped up pretty frequently. A fourth scoop seemed to do the trick, as they're holding well now. I could have put 10 wraps of gorilla tape around those rims, and 8 scoops of Stan's, and I bet it still would have weighed less than the stock Surly fat tube.

    Weatherstripping, foam, etc. do not seem to be necessary in my opinion. I can get the bead seated up pretty easily with an air compressor and a ratchet strap on the tire. If I flat with a tubeless setup on the trail, I'm putting a tube in anyways, so I don't think it's necessary to build up the center channel.

    I'm building up some new wheels and will convert them to tubeless. I'll weigh everything before I do and report some actual numbers.

  7. #7
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    Sasquatch....Thank You! Great description.

    The missing data would be: inner tube size/weight/brand? and also Rim Strip type/weight?.

    Those key data points would be very helpful. Cool!!

  8. #8
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    BoogieMang.....it'd be great to hear how the "materials" add up in your new wheelset build.

    Thanks for the info.

    oh...what tires on your LargeM. wheelset????

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    NO weights but Uma 90's, Stans fat tape and sealant. Two winters now and not a bit of problems down to 3-4psi. Tires used where BFl's and Bud.
    I have the same setup, and will echo the "no problems" comment. The bead lock ridge on the UMA rims is what makes the setup work well at low pressures. Don't have any weights, sorry. I think I used 2.5 or 3 scoops of Stans sealant. The 27 tpi tires will hold air without sealant, so I only put enough in to help seal the bead and valve areas.

  10. #10
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    Surly Toob - 450 grams
    Surly Black Rim Strip - 85 grams.

    I realize that my weights dont add up perfectly, but some were approximated. Looks like there is about 10 grams that got sucked into a black hole somewhere.

  11. #11
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    Here is a method I have been using and have had better success than the other method I have tried spilt tube, duct tape. Also I think they weight a lot less and I use no liquid seal, but I have not did an actual weight.

    1. I use a foam tape that you use to seal metal roof panels with. I stick it at a 45% angle on the bead and the flat of the rim the 2 ends I glue together with a drop of super glue
    2. I use shrink wrap that comes in 6 wide rolls. It needs to wrap over the bead of the rim about 8 wraps works well but make sure they all are over the bead or up may have a slow leak.
    3. install a valve stem I use one I cut out of a motorcycle tube with the treaded stem so you can tighten it down. Yes it is a standard type valve I like them better, but I think either would work fine.
    4. Install the tire and pressurize it I have had great success getting them to fill with ease because the shrink wrap seals against the tire bead.





    FATTY TUBELESS Summary of methods & ACTUAL WEIGHTS?-img-20130322-00081.jpgFATTY TUBELESS Summary of methods & ACTUAL WEIGHTS?-img-20130322-00083.jpgFATTY TUBELESS Summary of methods & ACTUAL WEIGHTS?-img-20130323-00084.jpg

  12. #12
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    I have ran this tubeless at 3 or 4 pounds of pressure with no problems. I have a few hundred miles on them in all type of conditions and have had no failures.

  13. #13
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    Thanks exp18 (a/c reference?? I think we met.

    I tried what you describe but I thought the glazing tape went against the tire rubber..

    In your photos I see I was not doing as you said to. Thanks. I will do this again.

    Any issues with tire-carcass porosity/pinholes?

    Thanks again. Your method is the lightest. I weighed the materials!

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by E6roller View Post
    BoogieMang.....it'd be great to hear how the "materials" add up in your new wheelset build.

    Thanks for the info.

    oh...what tires on your LargeM. wheelset????
    One is a Larry, one HuDu

  15. #15
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    Lots of responses to this thread but not many answers to the OP's question!

    I am running RD's with gorrilla tape tubeless. Ribbon as a rim strip (14g), one layer of extra wide extra tough GT down the middle, followed by two layers of standard GT about 1 1/2" wide on each bead shelf and down onto the middle layer. Side note: without the bead shelf layers four separate tires leaked at the bead with these rims. Presta valve cut from old tube attached with ~4" of standard GT.

    Not including the decorative rim strip, the GT and valve comes out to around 200g doing it this way. I have successfully run as little as 6 fl oz of sealant in a 4" tire but imo 8-10 is more appropriate (10-12 for 5") and stans is about 30g per fl oz.

    Soooooo, GT tubeless at 200g + 8 fl oz of stans at 240g = 440g. Same scale has the stock surly tube at 480g, Qtubes superlight 2.4-2.7 at 243g, and surly rim strip at 88g.

    I don't want to take this thread off-course, but I think it is worth mentioning here that sealant (especially when used in excess) should not be considered rotational weight.
    Whatever floats your bike, dude

  16. #16
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    Lots of responses to this thread but not many answers to the OP's question!
    Wait a minute...

    The OP wants everyone that did a tubeless conversion to go to a good bit of trouble to compile and repost the info that he wants to see. There are quite a few threads where people have gone into detail about what they have done, how well it worked, and very often what everything weighed.

    Has the OP spent any time looking for and reading that info? If so, maybe he could do everyone else a service and summarize what he has found for the benefit of all. If he hasn't, well...

    I go into great detail about my tubeless setup here: On-One Fatty Wheelset and Floater Tire Tubeless Setup (How To) I don't feel obligated to provide a Cliff notes version for those that don't want to spend the time reading what I wrote!

  17. #17
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    Maybe I am mistaken, but it seems to me like he is specifically asking about the, and I quote, ACTUAL WEIGHTS involved in these different techniques and only one post other than my own gives that info.

    Just sayin!
    Whatever floats your bike, dude

  18. #18
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    Darryl rims with 1 3/8 holes cut in. Surly rim strip. Basically JoeG method above but 3" gorilla tape fits the Darryl rim perfectly so a wrap of 3" tape and your good to go. This alone holes air pretty well but I add 1 to 1 1/2 scope of Stan's to ensure eve thing seals up. I normally run 5-7psi but have run down to 2 lbs in heavy snow conditions. Sorry no weights but JoeG outlines it very well.

  19. #19
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    Thanks for any and all information posted and shared in this thread.

    I apologize if my initial post/request was not clear enough.

    I am, as Dustin has defended me for, asking specifically for actual, real world, measured weights of any method of tubeless a person has made work reliably. I also am asking for a summary of the method. If someone includes more info. in a reply, or if I ask what tire they tried, please accept my apology for use of the extra bandwidth.

    ...Can we take 'er easy? Maybe we oughtta all "..just shut up and ride...", as my wife often says.

    Thanks. Peace.

  20. #20
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    Just for comparison my tube setup only weighs about 212 grams--190 for the tube (Schwalbe SV13F Extra Lights, 26 x 2.10-3.00) and 22 for single strip of regular duck tape (with some talcum powder to keep it from sticking to the tube). I doubt any tubeless setup will get anywhere near as light and even if it did the weight savings would be very minimal. There may be ride quality or puncture resistance benefits to tubeless setups, but I doubt there is any meaningful weight benefits.
    --Peace

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lars_D View Post
    Just for comparison my tube setup only weighs about 212 grams--190 for the tube (Schwalbe SV13F Extra Lights, 26 x 2.10-3.00) and 22 for single strip of regular duck tape (with some talcum powder to keep it from sticking to the tube). I doubt any tubeless setup will get anywhere near as light and even if it did the weight savings would be very minimal. There may be ride quality or puncture resistance benefits to tubeless setups, but I doubt there is any meaningful weight benefits.
    This is why I didn't bother to weigh mine when I switched them over. I was more interested in the improved traction and ride quality (which is significant) than the possible weight savings.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy FitzGibbon View Post
    This is why I didn't bother to weigh mine when I switched them over. I was more interested in the improved traction and ride quality (which is significant) than the possible weight savings.
    ^^^This^^^
    And I love beer!!

  23. #23
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    Thanks to all.

    In this thread, I really was hoping to summarize, or group, or list the various tubeless methods, their effectivity and longevity, and actual measured weights. It is a summary

    I asked this as a way to conveniently elucidate myself and the community in response to the mention on the carbon fiber fat-wheel thread that a tubeless setup would save weight.

    I am new to this forum. I apologize again to the long-standing members who feel I may have breached site-etiquette.

  24. #24
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    I will search for a summary of the benefits of tubed versus tubeless fatties!

    Any links to pertinent data would be appreciated.

    JoeG, nice job on the tutorial of your method. Thanks for the link!

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lars_D View Post
    Just for comparison my tube setup only weighs about 212 grams--190 for the tube (Schwalbe SV13F Extra Lights, 26 x 2.10-3.00) and 22 for single strip of regular duck tape (with some talcum powder to keep it from sticking to the tube). I doubt any tubeless setup will get anywhere near as light and even if it did the weight savings would be very minimal. There may be ride quality or puncture resistance benefits to tubeless setups, but I doubt there is any meaningful weight benefits.
    i recently had purchaced one of the Schwalbe SV13F Extra Lights, 26 x 2.10-3.00 as recommended what i did notice about this tube is it doesnt fill the tyre completly because my rim tape was bulged out at a 15psi with the one one fatty tube, but the Schwalbe SV13F didnt even come close i could put my finger in the rim tape(you might not notice this and i wouldnt of because the tyre felt good and only noticed due to having rim drilled ,it even looked loose) so before going to bed i thought i would pump it up to 20psi to stretch abit ,,AND THEN BANG tube popped glad i wasnt going down hill trail ,the Schwalbe SV13F dont even look like they should pump up 4 inch tyres ,,wheels was all clean didnt do it with my other tube ,,
    i am not saying there not ok just a warning dont want anyone to have an accident

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