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  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by aredemann View Post
    Anything I could do to seal it better from the get go?
    Everyone will have a different method. My method is using an old tube (make sure it has a removable valve core). Cut it out of the tube and leave a 1" diameter circle. Use a piece of gorilla or electrical tape to seal the edge of the old tube material to the inside of the rim's tape. I don't trust using the valve stem nut to hold the seal tight. I've also had to remove a tubeless valve on the trail, and if the nut is on too tight, it's a bear to get off.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  2. #202
    SimonsJ
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    Valve leaks are by far the most common source of any leaks when using the FattyStripper bands. Here is a check list that may help...

    1) When installing the bands, be sure to put the valves through the latex before putting the latex onto the rims. If you try to insert after putting on the rims, often the valve will pull the latex down between the valve and the rim's hole and bind. Often... this can cut the latex at the valve hole, which by itself isn't the end of the world, but I do recommend putting some tape under the cut to reinforce the latex and re-doing it properly.

    2) After putting the latex on the rim, look to make sure that the latex is not stretched at the valve hole or pulling the valve to any one side. Basically, relax the latex at the valve, then put on the plastic spacer, lock nut and tighten.
    Another trick? I put sealant on all of the valve's threads (dip the valve) before putting on the lock nut. The latex in the sealant makes a perfect loctite to keep the nut from working loose... yet can easily be removed with your fingers if you want to take it off.

    3) The main reason for the extra piece of tube to make a "gasket" is to help build up the valve's base so that it doesn't pull through the single wall rim as far. When the valve pulls through the rim, it causes the lock washer to run out of threads before it gets sufficiently tight. The plastic spacer helps achieve this goal too while it also lifts the metal lock nut up off of the flat rim's surface, making it much easier to get your fingers on.

    If the latex is relaxed and the valve fully tightened... you shouldn't get any leakage via the valve stem's hole.


    Quote Originally Posted by aredemann View Post
    I have done three fatboy wheels by now with little problems. However, I always get a bit of leaking around the valve. It will seal eventually, once I add Stans. I use a double layer of cut up tire between the valve and the stripper. Anything I could do to seal it better from the get go?

  3. #203
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    Has anyone been able to reuse a fattystripper? When I attempted to remove one that was supposed to be glued to the rim, it was actually bonded to the tire with no way to remove it without destroying it.




  4. #204
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    I had a large stick go through my tire and then poke through the latex and bling strip. I plugged the tire but didn't notice the hole in the rim strip. It was a very small hole that the sealant filled, until I flicked it with my finger.

    I had to break one bead down to fix it. It came off with the FS still held to the rim. And I was able to reseat and it's held.

    When I installed it originally I used the Elmer's glue on the rim then some petroleum lube on the tire.
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

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  5. #205
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    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    Everyone will have a different method. My method is using an old tube (make sure it has a removable valve core). Cut it out of the tube and leave a 1" diameter circle. Use a piece of gorilla or electrical tape to seal the edge of the old tube material to the inside of the rim's tape. I don't trust using the valve stem nut to hold the seal tight. I've also had to remove a tubeless valve on the trail, and if the nut is on too tight, it's a bear to get off.
    Using regular valve stems, i couldn't get the stem to seal, in part because I had torn the strip a little bit before I started. Instead, I drilled the rims out for shraeder, installed the 949 Racing stems, and added a rubber gasket to help seal the hole. now it works great, the valve is super secure and there are no leaks. Presta valve stems just aren't that great IMHO - the 949 stuff is great.

  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexkraemer View Post
    Using regular valve stems, i couldn't get the stem to seal, in part because I had torn the strip a little bit before I started. Instead, I drilled the rims out for shraeder, installed the 949 Racing stems, and added a rubber gasket to help seal the hole. now it works great, the valve is super secure and there are no leaks. Presta valve stems just aren't that great IMHO - the 949 stuff is great.
    What happens if you go back to a tube?
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

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  7. #207
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff_G View Post
    What happens if you go back to a tube?
    he would have to run Schraeder
    Mike
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  8. #208
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    I've run the 949 valves too. They're awesome. The only reason I don't use them on all my fatbikes is because my low pressure gauge and CO2 inflators are presta. If you drill out for schrader, you can still use presta valved tubes, you just need an adapter - its a little aluminum sleeve that takes up the gap. Work great - even going from schrader to presta ghetto tubeless - tool lazy to look for a pic or link, but they're readily available. BTW, the 949 valves weigh less than my Stan's valves.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by BIke N Gear View Post
    Has anyone been able to reuse a fattystripper? When I attempted to remove one that was supposed to be glued to the rim, it was actually bonded to the tire with no way to remove it without destroying it.
    I would re-use the fatty stripper with the same tire and pair a new strip with the new tire.

  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by coldbike View Post
    I would re-use the fatty stripper with the same tire and pair a new strip with the new tire.
    The valve stem would be a pesky problem......
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

    16' Trek 8.4 DS
    16' Farley 7
    and I'm OK admitting..
    16' Sturgis

    Minneapolis MN

  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff_G View Post
    The valve stem would be a pesky problem......
    You would want to keep it with the strip I suspect. I have done this with split tube, which has the valve built in, but it should be feasible with the strippers. The hole probably stretches enough to pull it out, but it would be a high tear risk

  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swerny View Post
    he would have to run Schraeder

    Outside of an emergency scenario, I can't imagine having to put a tube in, but now I will add a presta-shraeder adapter to my frame bag in case I have to make a swap to my back-up tubes.

  13. #213
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    [QUOTE=SimonsJ;12616510]Valve leaks are by far the most common source of any leaks when using the FattyStripper bands. Here is a check list that may help...

    1) When installing the bands, be sure to put the valves through the latex before putting the latex onto the rims. If you try to insert after putting on the rims, often the valve will pull the latex down between the valve and the rim's hole and bind. Often... this can cut the latex at the valve hole, which by itself isn't the end of the world, but I do recommend putting some tape under the cut to reinforce the latex and re-doing it properly.

    Do you mean to put tape between the rim around the whole, below the latex tape?

  14. #214
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    [QUOTE=aredemann;12618402]
    Quote Originally Posted by SimonsJ View Post
    Valve leaks are by far the most common source of any leaks when using the FattyStripper bands. Here is a check list that may help...

    1) When installing the bands, be sure to put the valves through the latex before putting the latex onto the rims. If you try to insert after putting on the rims, often the valve will pull the latex down between the valve and the rim's hole and bind. Often... this can cut the latex at the valve hole, which by itself isn't the end of the world, but I do recommend putting some tape under the cut to reinforce the latex and re-doing it properly.

    Do you mean to put tape between the rim around the whole, below the latex tape?
    No tape reinforcing is necessary unless you damage the hole punched in the latex to the point where it doesn't fit snugly onto the valve. My suggestion was to put a piece of tape directly onto the latex, over the hole, on the non-sealant exposed side to reinforce the hole (after it got damaged). You can just re-poke a clean hole through the tape where the hole in the latex is. This will just make a clean hole for the valve to push against & create a solid seal.

  15. #215
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    So I finally got my 26x4 Fat b Nimbles setup tubeless on Marge Lites on my Pugsley. FBNs have to be some of the toughest tires to setup tubeless. I tried pretty much everything, but I eventually got it to work with the Fattystripper. I tried the foam backer rods and they did not help. What finally worked was setting the beads with the fattystripper and a tube installed. I then broke the bead on one side, installed the valve, put a strap around the tire, sprayed lots of soapy water on the bead, set the tire on a bucket with the loose bead down, and aired up with my Joe Blow floor pump. I rode the FBNs on my Fatboy last summer and liked the lower weight, but didn't like the drop in the BB. These are great summer tires on the Pug with Marge Lites. The traction feels better than the knards and they roll great. I ran the front tire at 4.5 psi with the fattystripper installed. That was probably a bit lower than I should have, but it worked fine on the trail with no self steer or burping.

  16. #216
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    26 inch Hodags on MuleFut 80 did fattystripper last night.

    crazy how easy it is. holds air all night no sealant whatsoever. but i put
    in 4 oz each a blend of 2oz orange seal and the 2oz fattyspooge they send with the
    fattystripper 'kit'

    for bead lube I use a dab of laundry detergent in a bowl of water, so much more slippery than dishsoap

    anyhow, ridiculous how easy this is, and seals tight

    floorpumped it up with core removed,

  17. #217
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    Is this the same/similar backer rod? And do the backer rods shrink down in time eliminating any bead retaining capability? Any other easily obtainable foams that don't collapse in time?

    Frost King E/O 3/8 in. x 20 ft. Caulk Saver-C21H - The Home Depot
    MD Building Products 3/8 in. x 240 in. Backer Rod-71464 - The Home Depot
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  18. #218
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    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  19. #219
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    Has anyone been able to contact them?
    I had something that needed straightening out on an order and have not recieved replies to multiple emails

  20. #220
    Jon BALER
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ohfugit View Post
    Has anyone been able to contact them?
    I had something that needed straightening out on an order and have not recieved replies to multiple emails
    Yes, exchanged emails with them more than once. Never had an issue.

  21. #221
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    ok good.
    Maybe it's getting blocked or something. Nothing in the spam folder.

  22. #222
    Norđwegr
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    I prefer the stans tlr valve as it's threaded all the way. Removes the need to build up the valve.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ohfugit View Post
    Has anyone been able to contact them?
    I had something that needed straightening out on an order and have not recieved replies to multiple emails
    I got prompt replies aswell.

  23. #223
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    figured it out. thanks.

  24. #224
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    Are the strippers now black instead of red?

  25. #225
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    Quote Originally Posted by cdn11 View Post
    Are the strippers now black instead of red?
    Guess I should word that better.

    After looking on the fatty stripper site, I noticed that the pictures are of black material instead of the original red colour.

  26. #226
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    Quote Originally Posted by cdn11 View Post
    Guess I should word that better.

    After looking on the fatty stripper site, I noticed that the pictures are of black material instead of the original red colour.
    Yes, the last ones I ordered were black.
    MiTT
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  27. #227
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    Quote Originally Posted by cdn11 View Post
    Are the strippers now black instead of red?
    Yes, black. My guess is that it's to make the little bits that are left once you trim the outside latex less noticeable. As an aside, I had a sidewall rupture and had to replace a tire, Used the FS's again, and again, sealed up like a champ. Great product!

  28. #228
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    Good to hear they are now black. Maybe I'll try them out!

  29. #229
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    Quote Originally Posted by baltobrewer View Post
    Yes, black. My guess is that it's to make the little bits that are left once you trim the outside latex less noticeable. As an aside, I had a sidewall rupture and had to replace a tire, Used the FS's again, and again, sealed up like a champ. Great product!
    How were you able to re-use the FS? Every one I have removed has been bonded to the tire, whether glued to the rim or not.

  30. #230
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    to follow up on this:

    Quote Originally Posted by Chinman View Post
    I have to say, after doing 2 sets of Fatboy SE rims with this system I'm very impressed. The latex band and valve only adds about 100 g to the rim, which is hard to beat. The wire bead Ground Control tires required a strap around the tire to seat them, but my folding bead Ground Control tires did not and aired up with a floor pump. I didn't use the petro jelly. I just spayed soapy water, which worked awesome. You'll need the soapy water anyway to check for leaks along the bead edge. The red bling strips look killer on the stealth Fatboy SE too.
    the same way i did my Sport GC's on my Fatboy SE, but didn't go quite as smoothly. as said elsewhere the nice thing about using soap as a lube is it shows you leaks when aired up... well i found a few:



    the sidewall pinholes were aplenty and the beads leaked all the way around on both sides of both tires. these tires had 400 miles of tubed use before this and are wire bead for what it's worth. I also was not able to get a bead "pop" from any of the four beads, even when using an air compressor with valve stem cores removed. this was October 27, and as of this weekend i still get a little bubbling at the bead here and there (2oz Stans front, 3oz rear). they've been fine, and i'll probably run 4oz in both to be safe, but i would recommend and use the system again, as the bike came ALIVE with the conversion.
    VILLAGE RACING

  31. #231
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    Looking at ordering a pack of these from the state's after Xmas. How do you bond the foam backing rods to your rims? Pretty sure I'm going to have issues with my wheels.

  32. #232
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    Quote Originally Posted by dahedd View Post
    How do you bond the foam backing rods to your rims?
    The instructions from FS says to glue down the latex band to the rim. I'd try to glue them down, and if that doesn't work, a few strips of electrical tape will hold them in place until the fatty stripper strip is installed.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  33. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    The instructions from FS says to glue down the latex band to the rim. I'd try to glue them down, and if that doesn't work, a few strips of electrical tape will hold them in place until the fatty stripper strip is installed.
    the revised instructions that come with the bands actually go back on the recommendation of using glue; he basically says don't bother. but in the case of tubing you could try it.


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  34. #234
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    Quote Originally Posted by SimonsJ View Post
    Valve leaks are by far the most common source of any leaks when using the FattyStripper bands. Here is a check list that may help...

    1) When installing the bands, be sure to put the valves through the latex before putting the latex onto the rims. If you try to insert after putting on the rims, often the valve will pull the latex down between the valve and the rim's hole and bind. Often... this can cut the latex at the valve hole, which by itself isn't the end of the world, but I do recommend putting some tape under the cut to reinforce the latex and re-doing it properly.

    2) After putting the latex on the rim, look to make sure that the latex is not stretched at the valve hole or pulling the valve to any one side. Basically, relax the latex at the valve, then put on the plastic spacer, lock nut and tighten.
    Another trick? I put sealant on all of the valve's threads (dip the valve) before putting on the lock nut. The latex in the sealant makes a perfect loctite to keep the nut from working loose... yet can easily be removed with your fingers if you want to take it off.

    3) The main reason for the extra piece of tube to make a "gasket" is to help build up the valve's base so that it doesn't pull through the single wall rim as far. When the valve pulls through the rim, it causes the lock washer to run out of threads before it gets sufficiently tight. The plastic spacer helps achieve this goal too while it also lifts the metal lock nut up off of the flat rim's surface, making it much easier to get your fingers on.

    If the latex is relaxed and the valve fully tightened... you shouldn't get any leakage via the valve stem's hole.
    Have been using the FS now for a while and also always get leaking along the valve. I have only used 2-3 layers of cut tubing inside the tire between stem and FS but not on the rim side. So to recap: put a 1-2 pieces of 1inch tubing on the valve facing the rim and another piece on the inside, so the FS is surrounded by the rubber tubing acting as a gasket?

  35. #235
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    Yea, I'll still tape it. It's not like you're getting any stretching of the fatty stripper once you get it installed, so the tape will stay where you put it. Just have to make sure it's sealed well around the valve.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  36. #236
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    Source of frustration for me atm. USPS shows a bad adress was used (name of billing address, but street etc of delivery adress). Paypal receipt shows the delivery adress was correct. Despite USPS telling me it was using no trackable service, it still shows in tracking and is stuck in the target country airport since Dec 7. Handover, local delivery for USPS (DHL) has nothing in the database and jim does not respond to my half a dozen emails since

  37. #237
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    he is out for a month

  38. #238
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    HI Guys,
    Thought I'd contribute some experiences with 4 different rims and 4 different valve stems.

    1) Specialized 20 kids fat bike. Tedious to get the small band installed, but I finally got it. Tire required cam strap and strong compresser to seat. Leaked quite a bit and when it lost pressure overnite fell off the rim shoulder requiring starting over again. Finally doing ok after some baby sitting and adding air.

    2) Farley 24 fatbike. Used the adult size stripper band it was super easy to put on. Required cam strap and strong compresser. Had slow leaks for 3 days, but now set up fine.

    3) Clownshoe with D5's. Again, cam strap and compresser needed to seat. Held air very well right away.

    4) Mulefut 80's and D4's. Easiest yet. No cam strap required to set tire. Inflated quickly and held air without a leak right away. When air was let out to add sealant, bead stayed fully locked in.

    Now, on to the subject of valve stems. The ones Fatty stripper sells work fine with a thick tire patch and the included spacer. Stans and another lookalike brand work fine with store bought o-ring or tire patch. But here's my favorite yet: Doesn't need anything else--comes with nice o-rings and I like the red color to help find the stem quickly:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Fatty stripper is by far the best tubeless method I"ve used. Now if we could only convince all rim makers to stop making it so dang hard to go tubeless so we don't need the product at all. (such as my trek jackalops which came from the factory taped and ready to inflate tubeless with a HAND PUMP).

  39. #239
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    What advantage do these strips have over stretch wrap with Mulefuts?
    I wrap the rims, install stans valves and inflate with a floor pump.
    But the wrap cannot be reused if you want to swap tires. I guess the good point of the stretch wrap is no clean up.
    Can the fatty stripper be used again?

  40. #240
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    Quote Originally Posted by headwind View Post
    Can the fatty stripper be used again?
    I have had some success at reusing them. Because the strip stays glued to the tire, when swapping tires, you will need anther set of strips and valves for your second set of tires. Just carefully remove the tire from the rim and the strip should stay on.

  41. #241
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chinman View Post
    I have had some success at reusing them. Because the strip stays glued to the tire, when swapping tires, you will need anther set of strips and valves for your second set of tires. Just carefully remove the tire from the rim and the strip should stay on.
    How do you clean out the sealant?

  42. #242
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    You don't clean out the sealant. You just set the tire, attached strip, and valve aside until you remount the tire. The sealant will dry out eventually, but probably no faster than if you had a different set of wheels with the tires mounted. See the pics in post 203 above: Fatty Stripper tubeless solution? - Page 5- Mtbr.com

  43. #243
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    I did not use glue but may do so next time. I'll not remove these tires till I want to swap them, since I may end up needed new strippers if I take them off for some reason.

  44. #244
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flyer View Post
    I did not use glue but may do so next time. I'll not remove these tires till I want to swap them, since I may end up needed new strippers if I take them off for some reason.
    If you want the tire to stay attached to the fattystripper, do not use the spray-on glue. The Stan's sealant is what "glues" the tire to the fattystripper. The spray-on glue will glue the fattystripper to the rim, which is not what you want if you want to remove the tire and fattystripper in one piece like a tubular tire.

  45. #245
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    Quote Originally Posted by Montrealrider View Post
    he is out for a month
    Quote Originally Posted by voon View Post
    Source of frustration for me atm. USPS shows a bad adress was used (name of billing address, but street etc of delivery adress). Paypal receipt shows the delivery adress was correct. Despite USPS telling me it was using no trackable service, it still shows in tracking and is stuck in the target country airport since Dec 7. Handover, local delivery for USPS (DHL) has nothing in the database and jim does not respond to my half a dozen emails since
    Well, that explains my situation as well. Ordered on December 26th and tracking says in in route. Have been trying to get a hold of Jim for 2 weeks now and need to order another set for a second set of wheels. Very frustrating since I have 2 sets of wheels sitting here and no FattyStrippers.

  46. #246
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    Quote Originally Posted by headwind View Post
    What advantage do these strips have over stretch wrap with Mulefuts?
    I wrap the rims, install stans valves and inflate with a floor pump.
    But the wrap cannot be reused if you want to swap tires. I guess the good point of the stretch wrap is no clean up.
    Can the fatty stripper be used again?
    Mulefuts set up quite nicely with a tubeless rim tape that stays in place. I have a friend that used the Orange Seal tape and I use the Zip flashing tape. Swapping tires is no issue and tape stays in place. No messing with stretch wrap or fatty strippers.

    I have tried the fatty strippers (on Rolling Daryls) and and they were a pain. Having to cut the excess off was time consuming and I was just waiting for the Exacto knife to gash the sidewall.

    For the couple extra grams I found a split tube to be more reliable than the fatty stripper and I found I could reuse it. To each his own, but I think there are better solutions.

  47. #247
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    Quote Originally Posted by MioFatbike View Post
    Well, that explains my situation as well. Ordered on December 26th and tracking says in in route. Have been trying to get a hold of Jim for 2 weeks now and need to order another set for a second set of wheels. Very frustrating since I have 2 sets of wheels sitting here and no FattyStrippers.
    Order some of these, go split tube and be done:

    https://www.excelcycle.com/products/...FUqewAod6QoHVA

  48. #248
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    Ah good. I dd not use the glue so maybe it will stick. I wasn't thinking straight. So the fatty stripper is stuck to the tire, I bet. I'll stick with the Ground Controls till it is is time to swap tires and may need new strippers then. I was actually worried that the spray-on glue on the rim side would cause the stripper to shred up when I removed the tire.

  49. #249
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    Quote Originally Posted by Montrealrider View Post
    he is out for a month
    Quote Originally Posted by voon View Post
    Source of frustration for me atm. USPS shows a bad adress was used (name of billing address, but street etc of delivery adress). Paypal receipt shows the delivery adress was correct. Despite USPS telling me it was using no trackable service, it still shows in tracking and is stuck in the target country airport since Dec 7. Handover, local delivery for USPS (DHL) has nothing in the database and jim does not respond to my half a dozen emails since
    Quote Originally Posted by BlueCheesehead View Post
    Order some of these, go split tube and be done:

    https://www.excelcycle.com/products/...FUqewAod6QoHVA
    Thanks for the link, just ordered those and sealant.

  50. #250
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    FattyStripper out of stock, but FattyStripper = TheraBand?

    I posted this on the Tubeless Tuesday thread but figured this might actually be the better thread to ask on:

    Since FattyStripper is out of stock on the normal fat strips right now and won't start shipping again till February 18th, can I just buy Thera-Band latex bands in the 150mmx6 yard roll? Are these, as I suspect, exactly what FattyStripper is using to make their strips anyway? Do I want the "red/medium" color assuming it's the exact same stuff and therefore the same color would be the exact same thickness, and is there an advantage to going with one of the thinner or thicker colors? Tubeless Tuesday. - Page 20- Mtbr.com

  51. #251
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    Quote Originally Posted by pocky View Post
    I posted this on the Tubeless Tuesday thread but figured this might actually be the better thread to ask on:

    Since FattyStripper is out of stock on the normal fat strips right now and won't start shipping again till February 18th, can I just buy Thera-Band latex bands in the 150mmx6 yard roll? Are these, as I suspect, exactly what FattyStripper is using to make their strips anyway? Do I want the "red/medium" color assuming it's the exact same stuff and therefore the same color would be the exact same thickness, and is there an advantage to going with one of the thinner or thicker colors? Tubeless Tuesday. - Page 20- Mtbr.com
    This is what I did when I made my own ghetto "fatty strippers" (before I'd heard of fatty strippers) and it worked fine. Used weldwood rubber contact cement (red can) for glueing the overlap. I had various strips around from the physical therapy my wife was going through, couldn't find any 24" tubes in stock local or on line at the time wide enough for split tubeless, so I made these. I've used the black, red and green weights (not sure what their thickness was) because that's what was on hand. When pricing this out, the fatty strippers are cheaper, and their bonded overlap is probably better than what I made at home. I had everything already on hand, including the glue, so its was a natural thing to attempt. I wouldn't go out of my way to go this route - not worth the effort and trial and error. Split tube for the interim until the fatty strippers are back in stock.

    Do not google "ghetto fatty stripper", way way worse than the results from googling "fatty stripper".
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  52. #252
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    Thank you, watermonkey! Glad to know you've used green successfully. My wife has a green one in the basement that she hasn't used in years. She'll never miss it, right?

    Haha, I don't doubt it. I had to clear my browser history after googling "fattystripper latex".

  53. #253
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    I'm also in need of another option with the fatty strippers being out of stock. My rear sealed up fine with a split tube, but the front (100mm rim) needed the FS as a split tube wasn't wide enough (I think it was 24 x 2.4 or similar). I destroyed the FS removing it to put a tube in after a puncture - any other suggestions? Otherwise I'll use a tube for a few weeks I guess....


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  54. #254
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    Will any of these work for split tubes for you 100mm rims?

    Tubes at Tree Fort Bikes

  55. #255
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    Those look too narrow unfortunately - I did see online a 24x4" tube so may try and get hold of one of those to give it a shot.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  56. #256
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    Quote Originally Posted by rossp View Post
    I'm also in need of another option with the fatty strippers being out of stock. My rear sealed up fine with a split tube, but the front (100mm rim) needed the FS as a split tube wasn't wide enough (I think it was 24 x 2.4 or similar). I destroyed the FS removing it to put a tube in after a puncture - any other suggestions? Otherwise I'll use a tube for a few weeks I guess....


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Are these back is stock?

  57. #257
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    Quote Originally Posted by cdn11 View Post
    Are these back is stock?
    For most up to date information try their website.

  58. #258
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    Yes they are! I just ordered a kit and it's on the way. Can't wait to try these with my new 4.8" Minion FBF's.

  59. #259
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    Is it worth it to fattystripper tubeless my 27tpi nates or should I wait and go tubeless with a different tire? I told myself I would get a tubeless tire when the nates wear out but after all this time they are still going strong! This will be on my 2013 mukluk with non holy darrells.
    2013 Mukluk 3
    2012 El Mariachi
    2012 Specialized Carve comp (work bike)
    2005 Banshee Chaparral
    2008 Felt F4C (roadie)

  60. #260
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    Update: kit came in and I've been fighting with it. Followed the instructions from the YouTube clip but they won't hold air long. Rear held out for several days then gave way and the front wouldn't hold air for more than several hours. This time I secured the valve hole with durable tape used with roof flashing around the valve hole between the latex band and bling strip to see if that holds up and wiped the beads with Vaseline. To air up successfully, I had to briefly wrap the tire with a ratchet strap by hand. My wheels are 80mm and using 120tpi EXO skin. I was able to ride for the 1st time tubeless yesterday and it's a night and day improvement. Bike feels lighter and less challenging on climbs. It's worth the hassle at this stage in my opinion.

  61. #261
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    Quote Originally Posted by ECU-Yukon View Post
    Is it worth it to fattystripper tubeless my 27tpi nates or should I wait and go tubeless with a different tire? I told myself I would get a tubeless tire when the nates wear out but after all this time they are still going strong! This will be on my 2013 mukluk with non holy darrells.
    Tubeless is a huge improvement IF your rims set up tubeless and have a solid beadlock. Sans that, its a recipe for frustration, failure, wasted time, and poor low psi performance (by poor, I mean none, because you'll walk your bike home).

    Fatty strippers are cool, but split tube is more dependable.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  62. #262
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    That link is dead.
    What are they?
    And yes, I realize I'm replying to a post that was from 5 months ago.

    Quote Originally Posted by BlueCheesehead View Post
    Order some of these, go split tube and be done:

    https://www.excelcycle.com/products/...FUqewAod6QoHVA

  63. #263
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    Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-20170624_161255.jpgFatty Stripper tubeless solution?-20170624_161404.jpgFatty Stripper tubeless solution?-20170624_161835.jpgFatty Stripper tubeless solution?-20170624_161902.jpgFatty Stripper tubeless solution?-20170624_194433.jpgFatty Stripper tubeless solution?-20170624_200153.jpgFatty Stripper tubeless solution?-20170624_183037_001.jpg
    My recent tubeless setup with fatty strippers.
    I used an O-ring on the valve stem.
    Hardest part was getting the tire to get up on the bead. I used a bit of wire to compress the tire and squeeze the sidewalls out while I pumped it up with just my cheap floor pump.
    Finally I trimmed off the excess with a hobby knife and went for a ride.

  64. #264
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    Anyone try Caffelatex strips yet? They make them in multiple sizes including Fat. They are pricey but come with valves.

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Pt-pwTi3jqA

    https://www.amazon.com/Caffelatex-Tu...Caffelatex+fat

  65. #265
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    Quote Originally Posted by Averbuks View Post
    Anyone try Caffelatex strips yet? They make them in multiple sizes including Fat. They are pricey but come with valves.

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Pt-pwTi3jqA

    https://www.amazon.com/Caffelatex-Tu...Caffelatex+fat
    Supposedly they're not compatible with sealants containing ammonia, so Stan's and Stan's clones are out...at least according to the website. Split tubes starts looking pretty cheap compared to cost of these.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  66. #266
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    Hoping for an update from folks who tried these on this old thread.
    Which is better: FattyStripper or manufacturer tubeless tape (Sunringle)?

    I have fatty strippers coming, and am definitely using the reflective strips for night safety, and the valves, but is the latex band safer / more reliable than normal manufacturers tape?

    My rims (Mulefut 80's) have the tubeless-ready bead lock, so probably both hold the rim equally well?

    Which lasts longer, has the most seasons or tire-swaps?

  67. #267
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    Fatty strippers stick to the bead of the tire (see pictures above). You are not going to be using the same fatty stripper or stems for changing from one tire to another. To reuse the fatty stripper you must carefully remove the tire with fatty stripper fully adhered to the tire and then manage to reinstall in the same fashion. Have people done it? Sure. It's not for me.

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