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  1. #101
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    Pic. Nothing fancy. Just shows how the Fatty Stripper lays on the tire and then the edge after I mounted my tire, but before I aired it up.
    Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-img_8788.jpg

  2. #102
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    @claimed4all

    Are you running a rim strip under the FS?

  3. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by tehdually View Post
    @claimed4all

    Are you running a rim strip under the FS?
    Yes, you have to run a rim strip. The latex would probably blow out at the cutouts without a rim strip. I used the rim strips that came on my wheelset.

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by claimed4all View Post
    Yes, you have to run a rim strip. The latex would probably blow out at the cutouts without a rim strip. I used the rim strips that came on my wheelset.
    Okay, it just looked like it was absent in the picture you attached!

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tjaard View Post
    Yeah there seems to be another industry that says those are a bad combo. But, thanks to them, you can get a nice lubricant at the drugstore that is guaranteed safe with latex.
    Petroleum jelly breaks down rubber, causing it to swell then break apart like over cooked pasta. KY jelly or plumbers grease from the hardware store is what plumbers use.
    To appreciate the flowers you must also walk among s**t to know the difference

  6. #106
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    Plumbers grease is silicone grease, so no petroleum. You can get a decent size tube of it as something called Super Lube. It's a nice lightweight grease.
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  7. #107
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    I have to say, after doing 2 sets of Fatboy SE rims with this system I'm very impressed. The latex band and valve only adds about 100 g to the rim, which is hard to beat. The wire bead Ground Control tires required a strap around the tire to seat them, but my folding bead Ground Control tires did not and aired up with a floor pump. I didn't use the petro jelly. I just spayed soapy water, which worked awesome. You'll need the soapy water anyway to check for leaks along the bead edge. The red bling strips look killer on the stealth Fatboy SE too.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-image.jpg  


  8. #108
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    I just got these but have not installed them yet. I hope to this weekend. Do stock Ground Control tires on Fatboys come with folding GCs? I'll find out soon enough but if wire bead, I'll have to figure out the straps.

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flyer View Post
    I just got these but have not installed them yet. I hope to this weekend. Do stock Ground Control tires on Fatboys come with folding GCs? I'll find out soon enough but if wire bead, I'll have to figure out the straps.
    The standard Fatboy has a folding tire. Only the SE comes with the wire bead tire. I got one of the early SEs last year and it came with folding tires. About a month later, when my wife's bike came in, it had the wire bead. The wire bead tire is labeled Ground Control "Sport" instead of "Control" on the casing.

  10. #110
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    FYI: if changing tires have some spares or tubeless alternatives available.

    I swapped out tires on my FattyStripper equipped Fatboy yesterday and found out that reusual is very difficult. The Fattystrippers do an excellent job sealing, but also do a excellent job sticking to the rim, despite using spray adhesive. I ended up lifting it in enough spots that it would have been hard to reuse and reseal. Not having any spares on hand I ended up switching to the vacuum seal bag method and will likely be running that for awhile as it is easier to reuse.
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  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chinman View Post
    I have to say, after doing 2 sets of Fatboy SE rims with this system I'm very impressed. The latex band and valve only adds about 100 g to the rim, which is hard to beat. The wire bead Ground Control tires required a strap around the tire to seat them, but my folding bead Ground Control tires did not and aired up with a floor pump. I didn't use the petro jelly. I just spayed soapy water, which worked awesome. You'll need the soapy water anyway to check for leaks along the bead edge. The red bling strips look killer on the stealth Fatboy SE too.
    I've been loving the bling strips as well- really light up the bike!
    Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-image.jpg

    I've been using an exercise band or bungee cord as an alternative to a ratchet strap. You can knot it and loop it around the tire, but it stretches, so you don't have to worry about damage caused by rapid inflation if you can't get it released fast enough.
    '17 Cutthroat
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  12. #112
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    I set mine up up yesterday and the front went well, but the rear was a failure


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  13. #113
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    Thanks Chinman. I have the Controls.

    I think I will convert to tubeless since the tire/tube combo was SO heavy on climbs. I'll order an extra set in case I need it when switching tires.

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paochow View Post
    FYI: if changing tires have some spares or tubeless alternatives available.

    I swapped out tires on my FattyStripper equipped Fatboy yesterday and found out that reusual is very difficult. The Fattystrippers do an excellent job sealing, but also do a excellent job sticking to the rim, despite using spray adhesive. I ended up lifting it in enough spots that it would have been hard to reuse and reseal. Not having any spares on hand I ended up switching to the vacuum seal bag method and will likely be running that for awhile as it is easier to reuse.
    I figured the band might be a consumable. I didn't glue mine, so we'll see how it goes. In the mid-Atlantic I don't see any snow on the horizon. I prefer 24" Q-tubes when having to switch back and forth between studded and non-studded tires. I probably should just get a spare set o' hoops.

  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by farleybob View Post
    I set mine up up yesterday and the front went well, but the rear was a failure


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    We're gonna need more details!

  16. #116
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    Spray soapy water till you figure out where it is leaking at the valve or bead edge. You may need more sealant and shaking then lay the wheel on a bucket to get the sealant to the edge. Flip the wheel over on the bucket after shaking, bouncing, etc. After a couple of these gyrations it should seal up.

  17. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
    We're gonna need more details!
    I set both up on Wednesday night. I thought it went well, very little weeping of Stans and they were both holding air. Did the Stans Rock and roll shake for quite some time then let them sit overnight. The rear was harder to get aired up but once it took all appeared to be fine.
    The next morning both were flat, no biggie I thought, I aired them both up again easily as the beads were still set. Did the shake and roll again but the rear was weeping a lot around the bead. I gave the rear more air pressure to make sure the bead was set and the weeping slowed a lot.
    Let them sit for an hour and they still looked good and I wanted to go for a ride! So I trimmed the excess with a sharp razor knife from the front and moved to the rear.
    As I'm pulling the rubber tight to trim the excess on the rear, I'm almost done and all the sudden I get a loud hiss and rush of air from the bead area I just trimmed! I thought WTF? Could I have sliced the tire? No, I was applying very gentle pressure.
    Upon further inspection I see the tire is fine, the latex is where it is supposed to be, but air is screaming out and Stans is bubbling but can't seal it.
    I try more air pressure with the compressor thinking the bead must not be set, but nothing works.
    After another half hour with no luck I strip everything off the rear, throw a tube in and go for a ride.
    The front is still holding air fine. Not sure what I messed up on the rear?


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  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by farleybob View Post
    Not sure what I messed up on the rear?
    Don't know if it helps in your case, but I find a little cup of Stan's and a brush is a great way to get a super strong bead setup. Brush a very liberal and messy amount of Stan's around the bead area, and it works as bead lube and sealant. The problem with any kind of silicone grease is that it will help the tires slip at low pressures. Sealant sets up nicely to keep the tire in place, as well as to stop a leak while mounting. Don't rinse or wipe off the excess for a few days.

    At least I find this works on the DH tires and Jeep tires I have mounted (different sealant in the Jeep, same idea).

  19. #119
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    Starting to get this done. I ordered the bling strips and really want to use them but they seem like stiff vinyl, unlike the softer vinyl (plus velcro) Specialized uses. The Specialized one moulds around the nailhead like things on the inside of the rim but the bling strips don't seem like they do. I wish they were more like the Specialized white (ugly) strips. It seems like a a hassle and I'm not sure the adhesive will hold long-term. It feels like wrapping a stiff piece of paper around the rim.

  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dilligaff View Post
    Plumbers grease is silicone grease, so no petroleum. You can get a decent size tube of it as something called Super Lube. It's a nice lightweight grease.
    I love that stuff for bearings, but it is most definitely not silicone based--has mineral oil.
    https://www.google.com/search?q=supe...utf-8&oe=utf-8

  21. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zowie View Post
    I love that stuff for bearings, but it is most definitely not silicone based--has mineral oil.
    https://www.google.com/search?q=supe...utf-8&oe=utf-8
    There's more than one Super Lube product.

    Link

  22. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by JesusJuice View Post
    There's more than one Super Lube product.

    Link
    FWIW, they have over twenty products--just pointing out places could have "Super Lube" but not the silicone based stuff...
    http://www.super-lube.com/english-catalog-ezp-165.html

  23. #123
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    I went with the Specialized stock rim strips (just left those on..less hassle) and the Fatty Strippers. I actually inflated/seated the front tire with a floor pump. I had to use a compressor (well, I had to take it to a shop for that...I have no presto adapter) with the rear tire. Both seated well. Orange Seal- 2 oz per tire. I have left them at 5 PSI and they seem to be holding air for the past two days. The casing on the 4.6 Ground Control seems to be very airtight to begin with. So far, the fatty Stripper seems to be the best solution and my local shop has started to use them too. I did cut the strip close to the bead so I imagine I cannot reuse them and should keep an extra Fatty Stripper set on hand for when I switch tires.

  24. #124
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    FYI for Jim, maybe a tutorial could help others with the issue I had ordering yesterday.

    My credit card address is not the same as where I ship things. (to my work) It would not allow me to do it. Kept saying "your ship to zipcode does not match the zip code you entered to estimate shipping". or something like that.

    Brought me back to the re enter credit card info three different times before I gave up and sent them to my house.
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

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  25. #125
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    Are the fatty stripped proving better than gorilla tape?

    When people trim them, do you trim so the strip sits in the bead channel, or just short of it?

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  26. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by LCW View Post
    Are the fatty stripped proving better than gorilla tape?

    When people trim them, do you trim so the strip sits in the bead channel, or just short of it?
    My understanding is that you trim AFTER the tire is installed so the strip remains under the bead.

  27. #127
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    Due to that, I see them as a one-time-use. I just leave the tape in place unless I'm changing the rim strip. No muss, no fuss and it makes tire changes a snap.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    Nothing to see here, move along folks.

  28. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dilligaff View Post
    Due to that, I see them as a one-time-use. I just leave the tape in place unless I'm changing the rim strip. No muss, no fuss and it makes tire changes a snap.
    I think you may be right and I will be changing tires at least twice per year but I ordered them anyway.

    My logic is: I can get a new rim strip, (colored, narrower and lighter than stock) valve cores, the sealant sauce and the one time use? latex band in one order and for not much more than a single use roll of the Sunringle tape.

    If I wreck the latex band when I change tires next I'll buy a roll of Zip tape and I'll be good.
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

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  29. #129
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    I'll probably end up doing the sill foam split tube method on my fat bike this spring, but for now, crazy thought process time.

    Schwable procore - shove a tire inside a tire.

    Would putting an extra light weight 26" tube/tire inside a fatbike tire work to push the bead up against the rim, and then you use a second valve to add sealant and air to the external air chamber?
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  30. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    I'll probably end up doing the sill foam split tube method on my fat bike this spring, but for now, crazy thought process time.

    Schwable procore - shove a tire inside a tire.

    Would putting an extra light weight 26" tube/tire inside a fatbike tire work to push the bead up against the rim, and then you use a second valve to add sealant and air to the external air chamber?
    I don't get your logic at all. Do you mind clarifying?


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  31. #131
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    I think he is saying to use two valve stems but one tube. Mount the tire and seat using the tube, then deflate the tube and air up tubeless using the other stem.

    Seems like a lot of hassle for marginal benefit.
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  32. #132
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    The schwable procore system is basically a tire inside a tire to prevent pinchflat and rimstrikes at low pressure. the inner tire is at a higher pressure which prevents the pinchflats, while the outer tire is at a lower pressure for traction.

    The intent of the fatty stripper is to help hold the fatbike tire's beads out to the side so it can seat easier. Using a regular/procore tire inside a fat tire would also push the fatbike tire bead out to the side and basically lock it there. Kind of a reverse beadlock where you are pushing on the bead from the inside instead of using a bolted down ring on the outside. Because most normal 26" tires can't seat properly on wide rims, it probably wouldn't work on a 100mm rim, but might work on a 80mm wide rim. Not sure how well the inner tire bead would seat against the inside of the fat tire, but it shouldn't be much different than using a hookless rim.

    Along with the procore concept, it'll also prevent rimstrikes when you have the fatbike tire down at 2 psi.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  33. #133
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    Ok - but if a fat bike tire is not already heavy enough wouldn't adding another tire inside a tire be rather unreasonable.


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  34. #134
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    installed fatty stripper on my rear fatboy today( still running split tube up front).. very minor complaint, the red color.. circumsizing the excess flap produced a couple of the red stripper left between tire and rim on some areas.. no biggie but it would be nice if stripper was black (insert joke here).. mind you i was pulling on the excess flap gently and slicing it with a sharp razor as close to the rim as i can get.. again no biggie, nobody will see it anyway when you are riding..

  35. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paochow View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	1039487
    i see you have the bud upfront.. any problems with tire clearance on the fork arch? my bnew bud knobs hits the arch on a certain part of the tire..

  36. #136
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    I've had the fatty strippers in for about 3 weeks now, with stan's they're holding air better than my other tubeless setups, despite (regrettably) only 2 rides on them so far.
    To appreciate the flowers you must also walk among s**t to know the difference

  37. #137
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    Any one have any decent pics of the Stealth Strips? I'd like to see what they look like.

  38. #138
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    Is it possible to cut the latex so close to the bead/tire that you cant see the red?

  39. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by mix123 View Post
    Is it possible to cut the latex so close to the bead/tire that you cant see the red?
    If you use a razor blade, you can get pretty close. It is still noticeable if you go looking for it. My solution is to get some dirt on mud on it. Problem solved by just riding

  40. #140
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    Could probably run a black sharpie marker around the edge if I really wanted to get rid of it. We'll see what happens when I install.

  41. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by mix123 View Post
    Is it possible to cut the latex so close to the bead/tire that you cant see the red?
    Pull gently because the latex will break from your cut.. But if you don't pull enough, red latex will show.. That's my only gripe, it doesn't come in black... But like i said nobody notices it when you ride anyway.. Or like what chinman said.. Ride it on mud.. Problem solved..

  42. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by mix123 View Post
    Is it possible to cut the latex so close to the bead/tire that you cant see the red?
    If you want to make sure that you can't see the latex band... pull a little harder and cut closer with the razor blade. The latex will retract after its cut due to its elongation prior to cutting.

  43. #143
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    I left a 1/4 inch strip with the intention of hopefully being able to hold it in place and reuse the strip. Whether it'll work or not is tbd. I agree black would've been better.

  44. #144
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    Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-staun_ii_beadlock_close.jpg
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    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    The schwable procore system is basically a tire inside a tire to prevent pinchflat and rimstrikes at low pressure. the inner tire is at a higher pressure which prevents the pinchflats, while the outer tire is at a lower pressure for traction.

    The intent of the fatty stripper is to help hold the fatbike tire's beads out to the side so it can seat easier. Using a regular/procore tire inside a fat tire would also push the fatbike tire bead out to the side and basically lock it there. Kind of a reverse beadlock where you are pushing on the bead from the inside instead of using a bolted down ring on the outside. Because most normal 26" tires can't seat properly on wide rims, it probably wouldn't work on a 100mm rim, but might work on a 80mm wide rim. Not sure how well the inner tire bead would seat against the inside of the fat tire, but it shouldn't be much different than using a hookless rim.

    Along with the procore concept, it'll also prevent rimstrikes when you have the fatbike tire down at 2 psi.
    The Procore is like what the OHV guys have been doing for a minute with Staun. and yes two valve stems.
    ptarmigan hardcore

  45. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by masterofnone View Post
    I left a 1/4 inch strip with the intention of hopefully being able to hold it in place and reuse the strip. Whether it'll work or not is tbd. I agree black would've been better.
    Black would have only been slightly better. My split tubes flopping out between the tire and rim certainly don't look attractive.

    ac

  46. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by masterofnone View Post
    I left a 1/4 inch strip with the intention of hopefully being able to hold it in place and reuse the strip. Whether it'll work or not is tbd. I agree black would've been better.
    This did not work for me! Setup tires for two days with uncut and unglued strips, removed tires and the latex was clearly damaged where the bead hits. The latex was stretched/deformed and would rip if any pressure applied. Tried to setup tires again and the latex was to fragile to cover the rim. Looks like Im out of luck and going to split tube for the ease of being able to change tires when needed.

  47. #147
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    Thought I would give a follow up review to my original post on page 1 on 12/8. I have about 250 miles or so on the Fattystripper install, and I have ridden the pi$$ out of the bike in an unabashed effort to get the beads to unseat or the tires to burp, I have had the Panaracer FBN's as low as 3 psi over hard chunky techy sections, and they have held without complaint. No issues at all. Have to say I'm very impressed. With the FBN's, kinda less so. They have held up well but both tires have a very large wobble. It only affects me if I look down at them while riding (because then I get pissed off). *Ok, rant mode off* Highly recommend the FS system, though.

  48. #148
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    Will the Fatty Stripper "work" on my Motobecane Sturgis Bullet with Weinmann HL80 rims and Snowshoe tires? I'd like to drop some rotating weight. Thanks in advance for your input.

  49. #149
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    So this seems like a lot of work to set up especially since it seems when you change tires you probably have to redo it. Is it any more involved than any other fatty tubeless setup? Also anyone try these with the new Surly My Other Brother Daryl rims with a 27 tpi Nate?

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  50. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by baltobrewer View Post
    Thought I would give a follow up review to my original post on page 1 on 12/8. I have about 250 miles or so on the Fattystripper install, and I have ridden the pi$$ out of the bike in an unabashed effort to get the beads to unseat or the tires to burp, I have had the Panaracer FBN's as low as 3 psi over hard chunky techy sections, and they have held without complaint. No issues at all. Have to say I'm very impressed. With the FBN's, kinda less so. They have held up well but both tires have a very large wobble. It only affects me if I look down at them while riding (because then I get pissed off). *Ok, rant mode off* Highly recommend the FS system, though.
    I agree on the Fat B Nimble tires. They are really hard to use tubeless & I think there are way better options for less money.

    I strongly recommend the just released & currently available juggernaut pro 4.5 tires. $60 ea and silly light & fast.
    George at BrokenSpokeBikes.com and Nick at mojowheels.com had them in Stock yesterday. These tires are a treat for your bike's good behavior.

    Jim

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