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  1. #101
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    Pic. Nothing fancy. Just shows how the Fatty Stripper lays on the tire and then the edge after I mounted my tire, but before I aired it up.
    Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-img_8788.jpg

  2. #102
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    @claimed4all

    Are you running a rim strip under the FS?

  3. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by tehdually View Post
    @claimed4all

    Are you running a rim strip under the FS?
    Yes, you have to run a rim strip. The latex would probably blow out at the cutouts without a rim strip. I used the rim strips that came on my wheelset.

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by claimed4all View Post
    Yes, you have to run a rim strip. The latex would probably blow out at the cutouts without a rim strip. I used the rim strips that came on my wheelset.
    Okay, it just looked like it was absent in the picture you attached!

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tjaard View Post
    Yeah there seems to be another industry that says those are a bad combo. But, thanks to them, you can get a nice lubricant at the drugstore that is guaranteed safe with latex.
    Petroleum jelly breaks down rubber, causing it to swell then break apart like over cooked pasta. KY jelly or plumbers grease from the hardware store is what plumbers use.
    To appreciate the flowers you must also walk among s**t to know the difference

  6. #106
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    Plumbers grease is silicone grease, so no petroleum. You can get a decent size tube of it as something called Super Lube. It's a nice lightweight grease.
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  7. #107
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    I have to say, after doing 2 sets of Fatboy SE rims with this system I'm very impressed. The latex band and valve only adds about 100 g to the rim, which is hard to beat. The wire bead Ground Control tires required a strap around the tire to seat them, but my folding bead Ground Control tires did not and aired up with a floor pump. I didn't use the petro jelly. I just spayed soapy water, which worked awesome. You'll need the soapy water anyway to check for leaks along the bead edge. The red bling strips look killer on the stealth Fatboy SE too.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-image.jpg  


  8. #108
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    I just got these but have not installed them yet. I hope to this weekend. Do stock Ground Control tires on Fatboys come with folding GCs? I'll find out soon enough but if wire bead, I'll have to figure out the straps.

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flyer View Post
    I just got these but have not installed them yet. I hope to this weekend. Do stock Ground Control tires on Fatboys come with folding GCs? I'll find out soon enough but if wire bead, I'll have to figure out the straps.
    The standard Fatboy has a folding tire. Only the SE comes with the wire bead tire. I got one of the early SEs last year and it came with folding tires. About a month later, when my wife's bike came in, it had the wire bead. The wire bead tire is labeled Ground Control "Sport" instead of "Control" on the casing.

  10. #110
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    FYI: if changing tires have some spares or tubeless alternatives available.

    I swapped out tires on my FattyStripper equipped Fatboy yesterday and found out that reusual is very difficult. The Fattystrippers do an excellent job sealing, but also do a excellent job sticking to the rim, despite using spray adhesive. I ended up lifting it in enough spots that it would have been hard to reuse and reseal. Not having any spares on hand I ended up switching to the vacuum seal bag method and will likely be running that for awhile as it is easier to reuse.
    '17 Cutthroat
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  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chinman View Post
    I have to say, after doing 2 sets of Fatboy SE rims with this system I'm very impressed. The latex band and valve only adds about 100 g to the rim, which is hard to beat. The wire bead Ground Control tires required a strap around the tire to seat them, but my folding bead Ground Control tires did not and aired up with a floor pump. I didn't use the petro jelly. I just spayed soapy water, which worked awesome. You'll need the soapy water anyway to check for leaks along the bead edge. The red bling strips look killer on the stealth Fatboy SE too.
    I've been loving the bling strips as well- really light up the bike!
    Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-image.jpg

    I've been using an exercise band or bungee cord as an alternative to a ratchet strap. You can knot it and loop it around the tire, but it stretches, so you don't have to worry about damage caused by rapid inflation if you can't get it released fast enough.
    '17 Cutthroat
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  12. #112
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    I set mine up up yesterday and the front went well, but the rear was a failure


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  13. #113
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    Thanks Chinman. I have the Controls.

    I think I will convert to tubeless since the tire/tube combo was SO heavy on climbs. I'll order an extra set in case I need it when switching tires.

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paochow View Post
    FYI: if changing tires have some spares or tubeless alternatives available.

    I swapped out tires on my FattyStripper equipped Fatboy yesterday and found out that reusual is very difficult. The Fattystrippers do an excellent job sealing, but also do a excellent job sticking to the rim, despite using spray adhesive. I ended up lifting it in enough spots that it would have been hard to reuse and reseal. Not having any spares on hand I ended up switching to the vacuum seal bag method and will likely be running that for awhile as it is easier to reuse.
    I figured the band might be a consumable. I didn't glue mine, so we'll see how it goes. In the mid-Atlantic I don't see any snow on the horizon. I prefer 24" Q-tubes when having to switch back and forth between studded and non-studded tires. I probably should just get a spare set o' hoops.

  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by farleybob View Post
    I set mine up up yesterday and the front went well, but the rear was a failure


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    We're gonna need more details!

  16. #116
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    Spray soapy water till you figure out where it is leaking at the valve or bead edge. You may need more sealant and shaking then lay the wheel on a bucket to get the sealant to the edge. Flip the wheel over on the bucket after shaking, bouncing, etc. After a couple of these gyrations it should seal up.

  17. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
    We're gonna need more details!
    I set both up on Wednesday night. I thought it went well, very little weeping of Stans and they were both holding air. Did the Stans Rock and roll shake for quite some time then let them sit overnight. The rear was harder to get aired up but once it took all appeared to be fine.
    The next morning both were flat, no biggie I thought, I aired them both up again easily as the beads were still set. Did the shake and roll again but the rear was weeping a lot around the bead. I gave the rear more air pressure to make sure the bead was set and the weeping slowed a lot.
    Let them sit for an hour and they still looked good and I wanted to go for a ride! So I trimmed the excess with a sharp razor knife from the front and moved to the rear.
    As I'm pulling the rubber tight to trim the excess on the rear, I'm almost done and all the sudden I get a loud hiss and rush of air from the bead area I just trimmed! I thought WTF? Could I have sliced the tire? No, I was applying very gentle pressure.
    Upon further inspection I see the tire is fine, the latex is where it is supposed to be, but air is screaming out and Stans is bubbling but can't seal it.
    I try more air pressure with the compressor thinking the bead must not be set, but nothing works.
    After another half hour with no luck I strip everything off the rear, throw a tube in and go for a ride.
    The front is still holding air fine. Not sure what I messed up on the rear?


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  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by farleybob View Post
    Not sure what I messed up on the rear?
    Don't know if it helps in your case, but I find a little cup of Stan's and a brush is a great way to get a super strong bead setup. Brush a very liberal and messy amount of Stan's around the bead area, and it works as bead lube and sealant. The problem with any kind of silicone grease is that it will help the tires slip at low pressures. Sealant sets up nicely to keep the tire in place, as well as to stop a leak while mounting. Don't rinse or wipe off the excess for a few days.

    At least I find this works on the DH tires and Jeep tires I have mounted (different sealant in the Jeep, same idea).

  19. #119
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    Starting to get this done. I ordered the bling strips and really want to use them but they seem like stiff vinyl, unlike the softer vinyl (plus velcro) Specialized uses. The Specialized one moulds around the nailhead like things on the inside of the rim but the bling strips don't seem like they do. I wish they were more like the Specialized white (ugly) strips. It seems like a a hassle and I'm not sure the adhesive will hold long-term. It feels like wrapping a stiff piece of paper around the rim.

  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dilligaff View Post
    Plumbers grease is silicone grease, so no petroleum. You can get a decent size tube of it as something called Super Lube. It's a nice lightweight grease.
    I love that stuff for bearings, but it is most definitely not silicone based--has mineral oil.
    https://www.google.com/search?q=supe...utf-8&oe=utf-8

  21. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zowie View Post
    I love that stuff for bearings, but it is most definitely not silicone based--has mineral oil.
    https://www.google.com/search?q=supe...utf-8&oe=utf-8
    There's more than one Super Lube product.

    Link

  22. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by JesusJuice View Post
    There's more than one Super Lube product.

    Link
    FWIW, they have over twenty products--just pointing out places could have "Super Lube" but not the silicone based stuff...
    http://www.super-lube.com/english-catalog-ezp-165.html

  23. #123
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    I went with the Specialized stock rim strips (just left those on..less hassle) and the Fatty Strippers. I actually inflated/seated the front tire with a floor pump. I had to use a compressor (well, I had to take it to a shop for that...I have no presto adapter) with the rear tire. Both seated well. Orange Seal- 2 oz per tire. I have left them at 5 PSI and they seem to be holding air for the past two days. The casing on the 4.6 Ground Control seems to be very airtight to begin with. So far, the fatty Stripper seems to be the best solution and my local shop has started to use them too. I did cut the strip close to the bead so I imagine I cannot reuse them and should keep an extra Fatty Stripper set on hand for when I switch tires.

  24. #124
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    FYI for Jim, maybe a tutorial could help others with the issue I had ordering yesterday.

    My credit card address is not the same as where I ship things. (to my work) It would not allow me to do it. Kept saying "your ship to zipcode does not match the zip code you entered to estimate shipping". or something like that.

    Brought me back to the re enter credit card info three different times before I gave up and sent them to my house.
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

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  25. #125
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    Are the fatty stripped proving better than gorilla tape?

    When people trim them, do you trim so the strip sits in the bead channel, or just short of it?

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  26. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by LCW View Post
    Are the fatty stripped proving better than gorilla tape?

    When people trim them, do you trim so the strip sits in the bead channel, or just short of it?
    My understanding is that you trim AFTER the tire is installed so the strip remains under the bead.

  27. #127
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    Due to that, I see them as a one-time-use. I just leave the tape in place unless I'm changing the rim strip. No muss, no fuss and it makes tire changes a snap.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    Nothing to see here, move along folks.

  28. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dilligaff View Post
    Due to that, I see them as a one-time-use. I just leave the tape in place unless I'm changing the rim strip. No muss, no fuss and it makes tire changes a snap.
    I think you may be right and I will be changing tires at least twice per year but I ordered them anyway.

    My logic is: I can get a new rim strip, (colored, narrower and lighter than stock) valve cores, the sealant sauce and the one time use? latex band in one order and for not much more than a single use roll of the Sunringle tape.

    If I wreck the latex band when I change tires next I'll buy a roll of Zip tape and I'll be good.
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

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  29. #129
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    I'll probably end up doing the sill foam split tube method on my fat bike this spring, but for now, crazy thought process time.

    Schwable procore - shove a tire inside a tire.

    Would putting an extra light weight 26" tube/tire inside a fatbike tire work to push the bead up against the rim, and then you use a second valve to add sealant and air to the external air chamber?
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  30. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    I'll probably end up doing the sill foam split tube method on my fat bike this spring, but for now, crazy thought process time.

    Schwable procore - shove a tire inside a tire.

    Would putting an extra light weight 26" tube/tire inside a fatbike tire work to push the bead up against the rim, and then you use a second valve to add sealant and air to the external air chamber?
    I don't get your logic at all. Do you mind clarifying?


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  31. #131
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    I think he is saying to use two valve stems but one tube. Mount the tire and seat using the tube, then deflate the tube and air up tubeless using the other stem.

    Seems like a lot of hassle for marginal benefit.
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  32. #132
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    The schwable procore system is basically a tire inside a tire to prevent pinchflat and rimstrikes at low pressure. the inner tire is at a higher pressure which prevents the pinchflats, while the outer tire is at a lower pressure for traction.

    The intent of the fatty stripper is to help hold the fatbike tire's beads out to the side so it can seat easier. Using a regular/procore tire inside a fat tire would also push the fatbike tire bead out to the side and basically lock it there. Kind of a reverse beadlock where you are pushing on the bead from the inside instead of using a bolted down ring on the outside. Because most normal 26" tires can't seat properly on wide rims, it probably wouldn't work on a 100mm rim, but might work on a 80mm wide rim. Not sure how well the inner tire bead would seat against the inside of the fat tire, but it shouldn't be much different than using a hookless rim.

    Along with the procore concept, it'll also prevent rimstrikes when you have the fatbike tire down at 2 psi.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  33. #133
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    Ok - but if a fat bike tire is not already heavy enough wouldn't adding another tire inside a tire be rather unreasonable.


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  34. #134
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    installed fatty stripper on my rear fatboy today( still running split tube up front).. very minor complaint, the red color.. circumsizing the excess flap produced a couple of the red stripper left between tire and rim on some areas.. no biggie but it would be nice if stripper was black (insert joke here).. mind you i was pulling on the excess flap gently and slicing it with a sharp razor as close to the rim as i can get.. again no biggie, nobody will see it anyway when you are riding..

  35. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paochow View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    i see you have the bud upfront.. any problems with tire clearance on the fork arch? my bnew bud knobs hits the arch on a certain part of the tire..

  36. #136
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    I've had the fatty strippers in for about 3 weeks now, with stan's they're holding air better than my other tubeless setups, despite (regrettably) only 2 rides on them so far.
    To appreciate the flowers you must also walk among s**t to know the difference

  37. #137
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    Any one have any decent pics of the Stealth Strips? I'd like to see what they look like.

  38. #138
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    Is it possible to cut the latex so close to the bead/tire that you cant see the red?

  39. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by mix123 View Post
    Is it possible to cut the latex so close to the bead/tire that you cant see the red?
    If you use a razor blade, you can get pretty close. It is still noticeable if you go looking for it. My solution is to get some dirt on mud on it. Problem solved by just riding

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    Could probably run a black sharpie marker around the edge if I really wanted to get rid of it. We'll see what happens when I install.

  41. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by mix123 View Post
    Is it possible to cut the latex so close to the bead/tire that you cant see the red?
    Pull gently because the latex will break from your cut.. But if you don't pull enough, red latex will show.. That's my only gripe, it doesn't come in black... But like i said nobody notices it when you ride anyway.. Or like what chinman said.. Ride it on mud.. Problem solved..

  42. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by mix123 View Post
    Is it possible to cut the latex so close to the bead/tire that you cant see the red?
    If you want to make sure that you can't see the latex band... pull a little harder and cut closer with the razor blade. The latex will retract after its cut due to its elongation prior to cutting.

  43. #143
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    I left a 1/4 inch strip with the intention of hopefully being able to hold it in place and reuse the strip. Whether it'll work or not is tbd. I agree black would've been better.

  44. #144
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    Fatty Stripper tubeless solution?-staun_ii_beadlock_close.jpg
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    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    The schwable procore system is basically a tire inside a tire to prevent pinchflat and rimstrikes at low pressure. the inner tire is at a higher pressure which prevents the pinchflats, while the outer tire is at a lower pressure for traction.

    The intent of the fatty stripper is to help hold the fatbike tire's beads out to the side so it can seat easier. Using a regular/procore tire inside a fat tire would also push the fatbike tire bead out to the side and basically lock it there. Kind of a reverse beadlock where you are pushing on the bead from the inside instead of using a bolted down ring on the outside. Because most normal 26" tires can't seat properly on wide rims, it probably wouldn't work on a 100mm rim, but might work on a 80mm wide rim. Not sure how well the inner tire bead would seat against the inside of the fat tire, but it shouldn't be much different than using a hookless rim.

    Along with the procore concept, it'll also prevent rimstrikes when you have the fatbike tire down at 2 psi.
    The Procore is like what the OHV guys have been doing for a minute with Staun. and yes two valve stems.
    ptarmigan hardcore

  45. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by masterofnone View Post
    I left a 1/4 inch strip with the intention of hopefully being able to hold it in place and reuse the strip. Whether it'll work or not is tbd. I agree black would've been better.
    Black would have only been slightly better. My split tubes flopping out between the tire and rim certainly don't look attractive.

    ac

  46. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by masterofnone View Post
    I left a 1/4 inch strip with the intention of hopefully being able to hold it in place and reuse the strip. Whether it'll work or not is tbd. I agree black would've been better.
    This did not work for me! Setup tires for two days with uncut and unglued strips, removed tires and the latex was clearly damaged where the bead hits. The latex was stretched/deformed and would rip if any pressure applied. Tried to setup tires again and the latex was to fragile to cover the rim. Looks like Im out of luck and going to split tube for the ease of being able to change tires when needed.

  47. #147
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    Thought I would give a follow up review to my original post on page 1 on 12/8. I have about 250 miles or so on the Fattystripper install, and I have ridden the pi$$ out of the bike in an unabashed effort to get the beads to unseat or the tires to burp, I have had the Panaracer FBN's as low as 3 psi over hard chunky techy sections, and they have held without complaint. No issues at all. Have to say I'm very impressed. With the FBN's, kinda less so. They have held up well but both tires have a very large wobble. It only affects me if I look down at them while riding (because then I get pissed off). *Ok, rant mode off* Highly recommend the FS system, though.

  48. #148
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    Will the Fatty Stripper "work" on my Motobecane Sturgis Bullet with Weinmann HL80 rims and Snowshoe tires? I'd like to drop some rotating weight. Thanks in advance for your input.

  49. #149
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    So this seems like a lot of work to set up especially since it seems when you change tires you probably have to redo it. Is it any more involved than any other fatty tubeless setup? Also anyone try these with the new Surly My Other Brother Daryl rims with a 27 tpi Nate?

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  50. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by baltobrewer View Post
    Thought I would give a follow up review to my original post on page 1 on 12/8. I have about 250 miles or so on the Fattystripper install, and I have ridden the pi$$ out of the bike in an unabashed effort to get the beads to unseat or the tires to burp, I have had the Panaracer FBN's as low as 3 psi over hard chunky techy sections, and they have held without complaint. No issues at all. Have to say I'm very impressed. With the FBN's, kinda less so. They have held up well but both tires have a very large wobble. It only affects me if I look down at them while riding (because then I get pissed off). *Ok, rant mode off* Highly recommend the FS system, though.
    I agree on the Fat B Nimble tires. They are really hard to use tubeless & I think there are way better options for less money.

    I strongly recommend the just released & currently available juggernaut pro 4.5 tires. $60 ea and silly light & fast.
    George at BrokenSpokeBikes.com and Nick at mojowheels.com had them in Stock yesterday. These tires are a treat for your bike's good behavior.

    Jim

  51. #151
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wyoming Shooter View Post
    Will the Fatty Stripper "work" on my Motobecane Sturgis Bullet with Weinmann HL80 rims and Snowshoe tires? I'd like to drop some rotating weight. Thanks in advance for your input.
    Yes. Over 50 Weimann 80 rims have ghin tubeless with FattyStripper.com rimstrips. Not one issue has been reported. The key to making it easy is the foam rods under the latex band. That fixes the lack of a bread shoulder on those non-tubeless rims.

  52. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by captnpenguin View Post
    So this seems like a lot of work to set up especially since it seems when you change tires you probably have to redo it. Is it any more involved than any other fatty tubeless setup? Also anyone try these with the new Surly My Other Brother Daryl rims with a 27 tpi Nate?

    "Buy the ticket. Take the ride." -Hunter S. Thompson
    "Life is too important to be taken seriously." -Oscar Wilde
    "Single speeds should come in cans" -Me
    MyOtherBro rims are good tubeless rims.... that said, 27 tpi Nates suck. They are hard to get seated and are burp prone. Yes you can do it with FattyStripper.com rimstrips, but if your bike can run the 4.5 Juggernaut Pro tires @ $60 ea, you shouldn't hesitate to do that. Tubeless conversion & juggernaut pro tires will literally take 5 lbs out of your wheels for $140 delivered... and drop 25W+ of rolling resistance. You won't recognize your bike after a conversion like that. You can always sell your Nates to someone who doesn't care about performance or ride feel to get this conversion under $100.

  53. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff_G View Post
    I think you may be right and I will be changing tires at least twice per year but I ordered them anyway.

    My logic is: I can get a new rim strip, (colored, narrower and lighter than stock) valve cores, the sealant sauce and the one time use? latex band in one order and for not much more than a single use roll of the Sunringle tape.

    If I wreck the latex band when I change tires next I'll buy a roll of Zip tape and I'll be good.
    Take the additional 10 min & do the optional Elmers Spray Glue of the rimstrip to the rim. I know it doesn't seem like it'll work, but after a month or so, that glue will hold the latex reasonably well. Use the back end of a ball point pen and run it between the tire & the latex before trying to remove the tire. It works & you can remove the tire without changing the rimstrip.

    That said, I prefer to leave the rimstrip bonded with the tire & use another set of valves & rimstrips. I remove the tire, rimstrip & valve like a tubular system & keep as an intact, sealed system. FattyStripper & Valves cost $27... my time is worth more.

  54. #154
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    Great thread

  55. #155
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    Long time lurker, first time poster. Just had to join up & throw in my 2 cents on these Fattystrippers. These turned my Fatboy into a new bike! Super easy to install, almost foolproof. No, I don't work for them, just one of the best purchases and improvements I've made in a while. Can really feel the weight loss! Tires feel more planted, even with the same pressure. Only have an ounce of Stans in each and they're holding fine! Never could get the Gorilla tape to seal.

  56. #156
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    I have a question: my friend has been trying to run tubeless for a while now but somehow he always ends up burping his rear tire. 45North Dunderbeist on Mulefut 80 rim. He weighs about 200lbs. I was wondering if the FattyStripper, non-glued would seal with the side of the tire so that if the tire would burp, it would still hold air because of the possible seal with the FattyStripper?

  57. #157
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnnydrz View Post
    I have a question: my friend has been trying to run tubeless for a while now but somehow he always ends up burping his rear tire. 45North Dunderbeist on Mulefut 80 rim. He weighs about 200lbs. I was wondering if the FattyStripper, non-glued would seal with the side of the tire so that if the tire would burp, it would still hold air because of the possible seal with the FattyStripper?
    Strange that this is the case. Most reports is that ppl are having the toughest time breaking the bead off the Mulefut 80's. Has your friend tried to reseat the bead .. I would try that first.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  58. #158
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    I know it's strange... I personally tubeless'ed his wheels twice. I've doing this for years... Bead was properly seated every time. I can vouch for that. I haven't figured it out yet...

  59. #159
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    Need some opinions and advice. I just bought a set of Fattystrips and plan to install them in the next couple of days including a set of 3M bling strips. My wheel / tire setup is Bud / Lou on DT Swiss BR2250 rims. Right now I am using the original DT Swiss black rim strips with tubes. I have been reading this thread for a while and have seen the youtube videos and I am quite comfortable with the tubeless setup on my 29er and my Crossbike. However, I have never used Fattystrips before and my objectives are two-fold:

    1) Install the 3M bling and Fattystrips seamlessly and ensure 99% air lock efficiency.
    2) Come summer, replace the Bud/Lou with summer tires but keep the FS in place.

    So based on the above objectives, here are my questions:

    1) Any tips on the best way to install the FS on Bud / Lous on DT Swiss fatty rims?

    2) Can I use regular Elmer's to glue the FS to internal side of the rims or should I look for Elmer's spray glue?

    3) After gluing the FS to the rim sides, can I just cut the extra flap completely, or should I still leave the flap hanging on the side before putting on the tire?

    4) What is the better option for question #3, with the objective of preserving the FS for me to be able to change the Bud/Lou for a summer tire.

    5) If cut the flap only after installing the tire, would removing the tire effectively destroy the remaining hanging flap?


    All answers (detailed or brief) would be highly appreciated.

    Thanks again.

    Paul

  60. #160
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    2) Can I use regular Elmer's to glue the FS to internal side of the rims or should I look for Elmer's spray glue? <<< Like white squeezy glue? No. Use spray adhesive. Jim recommends Elmer's brand but I used Super 77 (IMO a bit stickier), and the bands stuck tight. I haven't removed a tire yet but I have a feeling that the bands will stat put when I do.

    3) After gluing the FS to the rim sides, can I just cut the extra flap completely, or should I still leave the flap hanging on the side before putting on the tire? <<< Leave the flaps intact until the tire is mounted and seated. Trimming is the final step.

    4) What is the better option for question #3, with the objective of preserving the FS for me to be able to change the Bud/Lou for a summer tire. <<<Use a good amount of spray adhesive and you should be fine.

    5) If cut the flap only after installing the tire, would removing the tire effectively destroy the remaining hanging flap? <<< ?? You're cutting the flap off. No flap left. Use adhesive and the band that's inside the bead should stay put.

    Hope this helps. It's really super easy, don't sweat it.

  61. #161
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    Thanks Balt,

    Now I have to look for Elmer's spray. Isn't that kind of messy to use? I hope my local Staples have it.

  62. #162
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    I didn't use glue but really don't know if one way is better or not. For some reason, I did not think those thin strips would hold up to being glued down and would rip anyway. I will likely change tires so will see if they can be reused. I'm planning on not being able to but will try. I will not be using the bike except on snow so I'll probably go to a slightly more aggressive tire than the Ground Controls...especially in front.

  63. #163
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    Is it really necessary to use Elmer's glue spray. This thing is difficult to source! Not available in Home Depot, or Staples, or any of my local hardware stores. Jeesshhh.

  64. #164
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    Not necessary in my case. It is easy without it and less of a mess. If the Fatty Stripper were a bit thicker, I may have used it.

  65. #165
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    Would this stretch to fit a 29+ wheel? I have some on the way that I have heard are difficult to set up tubeless. I am wondering if this would stretch and work on a 29"x 47mm wide rim?

  66. #166
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    So I worked on my wheels last night to make them tubeless using the FattyStripper materials. I haven't finished it yet because I am still waiting for my Elmer's glue spray, I have made a few observations:

    - The 3M Bling strips look great. The reflective material (comes out in pictures with flash) will provide some safety features for those commuting at night. The red color perfectly matches some red parts. :>)

    - The Bling strips have to be trimmed to fit the "inner well" of the rim. However, I had to be careful because if I cut it too narrow, the edges will show in the rim cut-outs. If I don't cut it narrow enough, they will sit too high in the well allowing dirt to come in between the strips and the rims.

    - To further hold the Bling strips in place, I was thinking of adding a layer of gorilla tape in the middle. Not for sealing purposes (that will be done by the FattyStrip) but just to secure the Bling strips in place. The weight penalty of that gorilla tape is irrelevant.

    - The latex FattyStripper seems quite flimsy and delicate but extremely light. As I see it, this is the weight weenie's alternative to the ghetto split tube method. I don't know which was is better (FS or Split tube) but since it is essentially priced like an inner tube the choice between the FS or the ST is essentially for weight reasons.

    - I was tempted to install the front tire without the glue and the rear tire with glue to see which one will last longer. Maybe that is what I will do tonight when I get the glue.

    More observations to come ....

  67. #167
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    Quote Originally Posted by paxfobiscum View Post
    Is it really necessary to use Elmer's glue spray. This thing is difficult to source! Not available in Home Depot, or Staples, or any of my local hardware stores. Jeesshhh.
    You can really use any sort of spray adhesive. I know that you ordered Elmer's spray, but I used Super 77, as I had some of that laying around. I also know Home Depot makes a brand called HDX in an orange and white bottle that should work fine as well.

  68. #168
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    I did recently change tires after installing the fattystrippers. One wheel I did not use the spray adhesive and the fattystrippers and tire and valve came off intact. Pretty cool! The Stans effectively glued the latex strip to the bead. This is shown on the fattystripper website. You might be able to reuse the setup, but I didn't try. On the other wheel, I did spray some adhesive down, before becoming frustrated with the the latex band sticking to itself and to me. Where I did get the adhesive down, the strip did adhere to the rim, when I removed the tire. There is no need to spray adhesive unless you want to reuse the strip, which will still take some care when removing the tire. Also, the bling strips have their own adhesive, you just need to peel back a few inches to get the strip to stay in place. No need for duct tape. Check out the install instructions and videos on the fattystripper website, the instructions are very well done. I'm going to be using toobs during the winter, because I swap tires a lot, but for summer, I will definitely be putting these back in.

  69. #169
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    Update...

    So I was able to get Elmer's glue spray from an Ace Hardware store nearby. It was the last can they had. Prepared the wheel and aligned the FS dead smack center on the rim. Folded the each side as per the instructions sprayed each side first (I saw the video on youtube. FYI) then I and properly rolled the FS back over the rim edges. The glue was tacky but if you are careful, the FS easily settles into place without a problem.

    I uut Petroleum Jelly on the FS and had to hide in the bathroom so my wife does not see that I was using her Vaseline. (I need to get her a replacement after I dipped my dirty fingers into this one.)

    Put on the Surly Bud and was surprised how easily this tire went into the rim. I don't recall if it was this easy when I used tubes on this a few months ago. The tire now sat loosely on the rim bed, on top of the FS. How the heck will this thing inflate when it was sooooo lose on the rim? Oh well, gotta try it. Pulled out the Bontrager Flash Charger pump and pumped away. For those unfamiliar with the Bonty Flash Charger pump, it is a good alternative to a compressor (which I do not have) and it has successfully inflated many 29er tubeless tires for me.

    Well in this case, it did not work. The air just went all out the side. Tried with a large canister. Same thing. Sh...t! I put back the inner tube, pumped it up to help seal one side with the intention to just pop the other side and remove the tube. Unfortunately, since the FS was still draped over the rim side, the bead did not lock into place. After I deflated the tube, the tire just sagged back into the center channel, as floppy and loose as before.

    So I ended up ordering the foam strips and will have to wait until next week for the strips to arrive. I could go to my local gas station nearby and use their air hose, but its raining hard right now and I am not in the mood to walk in the rain with a fatty wheel.

    Updates later on...

  70. #170
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    I had the same problem as you intially. If you want, look back at my pics on page 1 of this thread. I used the foam strips, and if you work the tire bead into the channel created by the foam and the bead, you'll seat your tires. I seated Fat B Nimbles onto Rolling Darryls quite easily (this is a difficult combo to work with).

  71. #171
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    Update...

    I couldn't wait for my FS foam strips so I made my own but cutting strips of firm foam material that came as packaging for I bike frame I bought six years ago. I knew I would have some use for this thing. I don't know how big the original FS foam strips are but my strips measured about with 10mm by 7mm.

    I used the Elmer's spray as adhesive for my foam strips and they easily tacked into place. I re-sprayed the rim/foam area again before "folding" back the Fatty Stripper into the edge of the rim. I think I should have cut back on the glue spray because everything was getting tacky in my living room and I could feel the hair on my arms and legs getting tacky too. More importantly, I was struggled to fold the Fatty Stripper over the rim.

    Eventually I was able to properly refold everything over the side of the rims without any folds. Before putting on the tire I added a lot of Vaseline from my wife's stash. Strangely the tire was now tighter on the rim compared to when I first put it on without the foam strips. It was so tight that I could not nudge the tire bead over the foam strip bulge. It took a lot of cajoling, and pumping and soaping before that tire settled in place. It was past midnight by the time I was finished and I had to soap and pump that tire at least five times before it started keeping air.

    Tonight I will add the sealant and cut the strips from the edges.

    More to follow...

  72. #172
    Jon BALER
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    Quote Originally Posted by spartan_msu View Post
    Would this stretch to fit a 29+ wheel? I have some on the way that I have heard are difficult to set up tubeless. I am wondering if this would stretch and work on a 29"x 47mm wide rim?
    My buddy got the following response when he asked about this. We set his ECR wheels up, and so far they are holding air pretty well (no rides on them yet).


    We haven't published anything about compatibility with 29/700c/29+ rims simply because I haven't had time to make a video showing installation on that platform.

    The standard band works great on 29/700c rims. It is definitely tighter, which is good because tolerances are tighter. The stretched latex does get thinner, but its plenty strong enough. For 35mm or less rims, guys have been splitting the standard band in half. For the wider 29+ rims, the band gets narrow when stretched, so you can't get 2 rimstrips out of one... but it still works great for one rim. Most guys do not do the glue step on 29 or 29+ rims. After a little bit of time, the band will bond with the tire's bead and essentially make a tubular tire, so its not all that easy to re-use when changing tires. Its possible... but you have to take your time and separate the band from the tire's bead carefully.

  73. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by paxfobiscum View Post
    Update...
    I think I should have cut back on the glue spray because everything was getting tacky in my living room and I could feel the hair on my arms and legs getting tacky too. More importantly, I was struggled to fold the Fatty Stripper over the rim.
    I have a stock, Surly Ice Cream Truck. I used glue and foam roads on the first wheel, and found it difficult to get the fatty stripper in place. With the foam rods, the FS has to be located just right and once the glue starts getting too tacky it really gets challenging. And getting the tire on the rim with foam rods wasn't easy either.

    For the 2nd wheel, I just went FS with NO glue or foam rods. Much, much simpler to install. I used silicone grease and a small air compressor for both of them.

    Both air upped instantly, and have held air pretty well with a few rides in. I think a floor pump would have probably worked too.

    I don't really see the point in using glue to save the FS, and I'd rather let it stay attached to the tire (like a tubular). I'll probably be re-using tires and swapping between summer and winter tires (or fast and fat). Replacement FS are relatively cheap.

  74. #174
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    Has anyone attempted this method:

    12) If you glued the FattyStripper on the rim and want to trim off the excess FattyStripper before putting on the tire, I recommend waiting 30 minutes or more to let the adhesive set and the latex to relax onto your rim. You can trim the excess FattyStripper after putting on the tire... this just comes down to personal preference and how much you care about the finished aesthetic look.

  75. #175
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    Nvm. I just installed and trimmed the strip with a sharp box cutter and it worked great.

    This is the best tubeless solution out there! Set the bead on my Ground Controls with no sealant on my Fatboy SE wheels first try with compressor. Very easy once you've done one. Highly recommend.

    Sent from my XT1563 using Tapatalk

  76. #176
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    I've setup several Fatboys with these with great success. Curious if anyone has tried gluing a split tube in a similar way to the Fatty Stripper for customers who don't care about the weight difference?

  77. #177
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    I did two bikes last night. Both on mulefuts. One had D5's and changed back to Barbi's and the second had Vee Snowshoes with 1/4" screws.

    Overall it was fairly straightforward albeit tedious. The Snowshoes have never been off and the beads were difficult to break but not impossible. They were tight to get back on and I worried the latex would tear but no issues.

    Vee's were leaking because of the screw holes and the Barbis held pressure for three or four hours before I headed to bed. I'm pretty sure they will both hold air with no issues.

    Lost about two pounds per bike.

    I'm not a "bling" sort of guy but I will say those bling strips look great when the light hits them.
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

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  78. #178
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    Hi all, I am also thinking about getting this setup for tubeless. What are you guys using for backup on the trails? Can you just through a tube in if you damage the tire?

  79. #179
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skarecrow View Post
    Hi all, I am also thinking about getting this setup for tubeless. What are you guys using for backup on the trails? Can you just through a tube in if you damage the tire?
    Sure, a spare tube works. Just remove valve and fattystripper and throw the tube in.

  80. #180
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    DT Swiss rim and Surly Bud rim combo seems real loose. Will I need backer rod? Wasn't planning on that...

  81. #181
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    Just finished putting Snowshoe 2XLs on Clownshoes using Fatty Stripper rimstrips. Set up was easy - the hardest part was centering the rim strip after putting the adhesive on (shiz gets a lil sticky). Otherwise great product - and super lightweight!

  82. #182
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    Worked flawlessly during the ITI350 this year. Only issue I had with air pressure was on day 2 when in a sleep deprived state I didn't close the valve stem and it leaked and the stans froze or gunned up in the stem. Easy fix and not related to the stripper set up.
    Fatter than most.

  83. #183
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    2 different bike shops couldn't get these to work on my Alaskan Alloy Framed. Anyone else get them to work on this set-up?

  84. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by toad37 View Post
    2 different bike shops couldn't get these to work on my Alaskan Alloy Framed. Anyone else get them to work on this set-up?
    Yes. I converted 4 Framed wheels 5 months ago personally. I used the foam rods because the customer wanted maximum burp performance. I seated one of the tires with a floor pump just to show how to do it... then used the compressor to keep from getting sweaty. Those wheels are still set up and running without any issues. They haven't leaked or burped, according to the customer when I messaged him today.

    What tires are you using?

    Email me some pictures of your setup so I can see what's going on.

    Jim

  85. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by in the trees View Post
    DT Swiss rim and Surly Bud rim combo seems real loose. Will I need backer rod? Wasn't planning on that...
    The DT Swiss rims are excellent rims for converting to tubeless with most tires... including Bud and Lou. I've run this exact combo. You will not need the foam rods. If you have 120 tpi, often, you can inflate with a floor pump. If you have 60 tpi, you'll need to hit it hard with a compressor... either way, use lube on the band and remove the core from the valve.

  86. #186
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    Quote Originally Posted by SimonsJ View Post
    Yes. I converted 4 Framed wheels 5 months ago personally. I used the foam rods because the customer wanted maximum burp performance. I seated one of the tires with a floor pump just to show how to do it... then used the compressor to keep from getting sweaty. Those wheels are still set up and running without any issues. They haven't leaked or burped, according to the customer when I messaged him today.

    What tires are you using?

    Email me some pictures of your setup so I can see what's going on.

    Jim
    Jim,

    I'm using the stock "Framed" house brand tires.
    I emailed you pictures of my set-up back when I ordered on 3/14. I had two different bike shops spend time on it and they couldn't get it. Maybe they did it wrong. I emailed you about it and never heard back. I moved on from it.

  87. #187
    SimonsJ
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    Quote Originally Posted by toad37 View Post
    Jim,

    I'm using the stock "Framed" house brand tires.
    I emailed you pictures of my set-up back when I ordered on 3/14. I had two different bike shops spend time on it and they couldn't get it. Maybe they did it wrong. I emailed you about it and never heard back. I moved on from it.
    Is this Todd? Shipped to JR?

    Unfortunately I've been getting record amounts of SPAM... and I just checked for an email and didn't see any mentioning FRAMED still sitting in my INBOX. Can you resend your email? I'd like to know what you're seeing. Are the Framed tires 60tpi and really stiff? Did the core get pulled from the valve? Did you use foam rods? What lube on the bands?

  88. #188
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    Do the foam rods stand up to repeated installations, or do they pack out?

    I ask because I used the window sill gasket and split tube method. While it worked great, I have no way to add sealant without starting completely over. If I open the valve to add sealant through it, inevitably the bead breaks. The tire/rim fit is so loose that I can't get the bead to re-seat unless I start with 100% fresh foam to fill the rim gap.

    ac

  89. #189
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    No, the foam rods do not stand up. Just like the fatty stripper, they are one and done. I am a big fan of the split tube method. I use a sill sealer foam to take up the extra gap. I have Fatback rims adding sealant does not seem to be an issue.

  90. #190
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    Quote Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
    I ask because I used the window sill gasket and split tube method. While it worked great, I have no way to add sealant without starting completely over. If I open the valve to add sealant through it, inevitably the bead breaks.
    Does it pull the tire away from the split tube? I always thought the tire would stick to the tube, and the tube would stay tight against the rim well enough that it wouldn't pull the bead away.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  91. #191
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    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    Does it pull the tire away from the split tube? I always thought the tire would stick to the tube, and the tube would stay tight against the rim well enough that it wouldn't pull the bead away.
    That's what happened the last time I tried so I had to start completely over with new foam. It was a pain.

    I was thinking about gluing the tire bead to the split tube next time.

    ac

  92. #192
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueCheesehead View Post
    No, the foam rods do not stand up. Just like the fatty stripper, they are one and done. I am a big fan of the split tube method. I use a sill sealer foam to take up the extra gap. I have Fatback rims adding sealant does not seem to be an issue.
    I haven't had to use the foam rods, but the fatty stripper isn't "one and done". I used a small amount of spray adhesive at the edge of my rim to hold the fattie stripper in place and was able to do tire swaps without damaging the stripper. No big deal. I think it must just depend on what rim you're using.
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  93. #193
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    Quote Originally Posted by ColoradoMitt View Post
    I haven't had to use the foam rods, but the fatty stripper isn't "one and done". I used a small amount of spray adhesive at the edge of my rim to hold the fattie stripper in place and was able to do tire swaps without damaging the stripper. No big deal. I think it must just depend on what rim you're using.
    I used it with my Rolling Daryls. My Dillingers were too loose and I used the foam rods to hold the bead toward the rim edge. When I swapped to spring tires I found the Fatty Stripper stuck to the tire and the rods needed replacing as they were compressed. I did reinstall one fatty stripper once when it failed to seal. I got it to work. It can be done, but it was a PITA. Also, I hated trying to trim the FS so that the red/pink did not show between the tire and my black rims. The split tube has worked much better for me. I have found I can swap tires, change foam and reuse without issue. I also like that the stem is integrated, so there is one fewer areas to leak. I do not have to trim it nearly as closely as the black tube edge is not nearly as noticeable. Is it marginally heavier, sure, but what's 50g on a fat bike?

    The FS is a solution for some, but not me.

  94. #194
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    I set up a Bud and Lou on Clown Shoes with the Fatty Stripper this weekend.

    I used the backer rods and bling strip with a little bit of soap for lubrication. The only place where I had a bit of trouble was getting everything to seal around the valve stem. Maybe I didn't use the spare tube quite right...didn't watch the video just went off written instructions. I had to tighten the nut quite a bit to get a good seal around the valve (even needed to use my multi-tool). In the end, I got everything set up with a hand pump. Set up took a bit of sweat, care and finesse, but I'm pleased.

  95. #195
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    Did two kenda juggernauts on my stock fatboy rims. I popped both tires on with no stans just to get one side of the bead on without spilling stans everywhere. One of them held air overnight without any stans. I aired them both down and put stans in through the stem. Other then having to snug down one of the stems a little more it couldn't have gone any smoother.

    Fyi I went from tubes ground controls to tubeless juggernauts and shaved about 4.8lbs off my bike

  96. #196
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    So after stumbling across this thread I ordered a set up. Got it as "parts" as I didn't want the sealant. Have my own 3/4 gallon worth of home brew.

    Orange bling strips
    Valves
    Foams
    And rim strips.

    Foams had several smashed spots in them due to USPS (and packing in the thinnest padded envelope I've ever seen). Grabbed an extra role from Lowe's (fatty stripper is was cheaper, enough for 2 rims was way cheaper than the one role that was enough for 1 rim)

    After reading this thread I figured clear gorilla tape was a good idea as I'm a bigger guy, run higher pressures. So backed the bling strips with it.

    Followed directions for the rear first which has a Nate ATM (ordering a rougarou for the rear soon) and wasn't to bad to get set up.

    Now the front I have a Bontrager barbagazi........ That was many cuss words and walking away 3 times. Since they are TLR tires with tight beads even though I glued down the foams they kept getting sucked up onto the bead seat so tires wouldnt seat.

    So today I tried a different plan. Tore it all down except the bling strip (backing covering adhesive of course came off with old tape). Put new foams in, then backed the bling strip and foams with the clear gorilla tape. Then put the fatty strip over all that.

    Pushed one bead on as far as I could, hit it with air compressor and DONE. I wasted 3+ hrs fighting it yesterday. Took 30 minutes including taking old stuff off and from is done.

    2011 Mukluk with stock Sheba's, drilled. Successful tubeless set up thanks to this set up!!!!

    From now on no more ghetto or rigging on this or future fatty. Though the extra showing around the rim is mildly annoying, I have confidence in this system. Never thought of the foam rods.

    Love it when independent innovation solves an pain in the a$$ problem without it costing an arm and a leg.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk

  97. #197
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    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    Would putting an extra light weight 26" tube/tire inside a fatbike tire work to push the bead up against the rim, and then you use a second valve to add sealant and air to the external air chamber?
    Drifting... and an old post, but I've tested a few things...

    With a 47mm trials rim: a 24" tube (hard to find locally) inside really presses 120 TPI in Larry, Endo or Nate against the rim. Haven't found a way to get air & sealant past the 24" tube to the resulting tubeless chamber in a manner that I'd trust, so I haven't ridden this. (Best I could come up with was putting a second value for the tubeless chamber opposite the tube's value, then crazy-gluing the tube flat for an inch at that spot, then a through hole for the 2nd valve, with plastic washer glued to the tube. Still not convinced the tube would stay contained.) I was intending to try SCS 1200 silicone to seal the tire bead to the rim.

    With a 100mm rim: two 24" tubes expand their circumference too much without pushing sideways enough to be effective. Didn't try three. Weight and complexity is getting up there too.

    I would expect two 24" tubes on an 80mm rim would work, but I haven't got an 80mm rim.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  98. #198
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    An update for the guys that have mentioned trying to add sealant.

    I can do it whenever through the valve stem no problem, because of the foam rods being glued in place the bead doesn't release. My front tire I lost a lot of sealant trying to sort out how to get it to seat properly. Once done and let the wheel sit overnight I realized I needed to add sealant. Pulled the valve core, added, aired back up without issues.

    So much simpler than the split tube mess.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk

  99. #199
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    I have done three fatboy wheels by now with little problems. However, I always get a bit of leaking around the valve. It will seal eventually, once I add Stans. I use a double layer of cut up tire between the valve and the stripper. Anything I could do to seal it better from the get go?

  100. #200
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    Totally forgot I posted this thread! Been running my split tubes still so haven't even tried them myself!
    Fatbike / Monstercross / Hybrid

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