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  1. #401
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    Quote Originally Posted by d4nt3ch View Post


    As basic as she is, I'm loving my '16 Rocky mountain blizzard 10
    I have the same bike (though you got yours at a better sale price than I did!) I only have three rides on it on account of having a few teeth pulled shortly after I got it and then the weather going all melty/rainy, but the rides I did get on it were awesome! Really hoping the weather either melts everything or drops below freezing and snows so I can get back out again.

  2. #402
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    Fatbikes under $1000 bucks

    Well let me add the Raleigh pardner. Steel frame, 4" tires, neon green, bolt on wheels. 9 speed shimano alivio drive train. Triple front crank.

    Having had a chance to ride and play with this bike my initial reactions are good. I took the time to properly lube the joy tech hubs, and with them lubed and adjusted the spin very nicely. I did add a adjustable stem on because I need to be up a bit more.
    Also I tend to replace all cable hanger clips with zip ties.
    I wanted steel, it's a nice bike for steel in my honest opinion. Seeing these for about 799.00. If you are fire/ems you can get it cheaper. I got mine for 540.00 shipped. Pm me and I'll tell ya how.
    Bill




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  3. #403
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    I've been riding a Motobecane Sturgis NX since October 2016. I weigh 270 lbs and have been riding the thing hard. BMX jumps, Moutain bike jumps, hitting the skate/bike park with my son, all kinds of trails, rock crawling, trials riding, you name it. The only issue I've had is the Novatec rear hub. It would pop and slip sometimes under power. Well and I broke the stock KMC chain, but I think that was due to it getting sucked into the wheel once.
    So far it seems to be an excellent bike.
    The only mods I've done is to put better brake pads on, and change the stem.

  4. #404
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    I bought this Fuji Wendigo 1.1 aluminum last fall and rode it all winter in SW N. Dakota. Coldest weather I've ridden it in was -10f with a -30 wind chill (twice). -30 with wind chill is my self-imposed limit. Anything colder than that and I'm on the spin bike in the basement.

    I was torn between medium and large when I bought this because some of the standover issues it seems a fat bike can have (I normally ride a large full susp., which suits me well). I went with the medium and it was a little tight before I added a Ritchey 20mm set back post with saddle slid back and wider with only 4 degree sweep Spank Oozy bars (stock were 9 degrees) -- and now the bike fits me close to how my large full sus does. Also ditched stock seat for a WTB, which I do with ANY new bike I get. Have also added mud shovel fenders. May upgrade wheels/tires at some point just to cut some rotating weight, though I must say I actually like the Bulldozer tires quite a bit for all around riding.

    Bike retailed for $1350 but got it for $995 on sale and using some performance points I had built up. Not the fanciest bike in the world, but has been a great intro to fat biking. I think it has really nice spec for the price, even at full retail, with XT rear, Deore shifters, X7 front, salsa hubs etc. I guess the places Fuji cheaped out were the Samox crank (though it's been fine so far), and my biggest complaint, the Tektro hydro brakes. I replaced the front rotor with a Shimano RT66 (not shown in pics) as I couldn't adjust or get the stock front rotor to run quiet or true to save my life.

    I am now hooked on fat, am lusting after a Bucksaw carbon or Farley 9.8 EX. Fat is definitely where it's at!!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Fatbikes under 00 bucks-img_0911-2-.jpg  

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  5. #405
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    A semi off-topic question: thru all these is there a top 3 under 1k? I've got my eye on the mongoose just because I'm liking the pricepoint... thanks

  6. #406
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deadman13 View Post
    A semi off-topic question: thru all these is there a top 3 under 1k? I've got my eye on the mongoose just because I'm liking the pricepoint... thanks
    I'm not sure if there are any rankings for the under $1k fatties; best advice I can offer is read the forums and form your own opinions. This thread is unfortunately pretty dead if you hadn't already noticed...

  7. #407
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marna_Kazmaier View Post
    So? What do you think LBS pay for their Dealership and Bikes? The LBS make enough money to stay in business, pay rent, insurance, take home paychecks for how many people? And everything else.
    Pretty much guarantee that most bike shops send more of your money to Uncle Sam than they pocket.

  8. #408
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    Evo Big Ridge 7.0, under $850CAD or $645USD (walmart carries them). Alloy frame and alloy fork, 100mm drilled rims, 135/190 spacing with a solid locknut rear axle, 1x8 but the freehub is a standard shimano body so you can easily 1x11 it by just changing the shifter, chain, derailleur and cassette. Square taper BB/crank. Tires are a Chao Yang wire-bead OEM version of their Big Daddy tread in a 26 x 4.0 but the frame & fork has clearance for Vee Snowshoe XL 4.8s.
    I don't post to generate business for myself or make like I'm better than sliced bread

  9. #409
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    Evo Big Ridge 7.0

    Quote Originally Posted by DeeEight View Post
    135/190 spacing with a solid locknut rear axle
    evo websites specs 10x190 - should be QR?

    (walmart carries them)

    Appears to be out of stock there, but Niagara Cycle lists it: https://www.niagaracycle.com/categor...icycle-black-l

  10. #410
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    LL Bean sells a Reid for about $850.
    Last edited by J_Ghost; 08-19-2017 at 12:40 PM.

  11. #411
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    Evo Big Ridge is a solid 10mm threaded rear axle with nuts, not a Quick release or thru-shaft.
    I don't post to generate business for myself or make like I'm better than sliced bread

  12. #412
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    Northrock XX00

    This is the Northrock XX00 which was sold through certain Costco stores. I bought one, knowing it was an entry level bike. I plan to use it mostly in the winter, pulling my kids around in their sled and that sort of thing, so I didn't mind it wasn't a pro level ride.

    Fatbikes under 00 bucks-img_20170721_1931268_rewind.jpg

    The biggest weakness is the crank which has a 36 tooth sprocket.
    It also has a thread on freewheel, 14-28, 7-speed. At least you get a cartridge bottom bracket, square taper of course. There are quick releases on front and back.

    The bike felt medium in weight, but I didn't weigh it. A fair guess is 35 lbs. It is an aluminum frame. The rims look like the same ones used on other inexpensive fatties.

    When I was deciding whether to buy it or not, the decision was yes if I could use it as is, and no if I had to immediately upgrade something. I figured the gearing was lousy, but since I used to ride a single-speed mountain bike, I could just ride in 1st gear all the time.

    Everything else looked like it would work for me, a middle-age rider who has broken enough bones for one lifetime, and isn't going to race or jump the thing anytime soon.

    After owning the bike, I threw on a crank I already had (not pictured), which is 22-32-42, 170mm arms. I don't plan any other changes. Mine was $269, marked off 10 percent for being the floor model.

  13. #413
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    Since the crank is square taper you can always swap it to a different one with a different bolt pattern, possibly even fit a double with a front derailleur and front shifter.
    I don't post to generate business for myself or make like I'm better than sliced bread

  14. #414
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    2018 Norco Bigfoot Ride and Review

    This is a bike check and ride of the 2018 Norco Bigfoot 1. It is currently listed at $1399, but the Bigfoot 2 is $949. Check out the video, and let me know what you think.



    Last edited by Colorado Mtb; 10-24-2017 at 10:36 AM. Reason: not what I wrote

  15. #415
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    Forgive me if this is too off topic...but where does support for the LBS end? I've been to all the local shops and we have a lot of them in Minneapolis...all have a few name brand models in entry level and fully blinged out versions, all are at price points far above my budget (about $1,000) and far more expensive than some decent spec'd bikes from sites like BD or custom spec on a Framed bike. I try to shop local for parts and accessories, but I can't ever find what I'm looking for in a bike that's ready to go. I'd like to do my own wrenching, but still need local help on some of the more difficult stuff, or those services that require special tools? what kind of help can I expect if I take a bike that I bought online in for local help? I can get a bike with the features and components that I want online, at a price I can afford. I can't do the same at the LBS, but I need them there when I need them...what's the answer?
    Dave

  16. #416
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    Quote Originally Posted by analoguekid View Post
    Forgive me if this is too off topic...but where does support for the LBS end? I've been to all the local shops and we have a lot of them in Minneapolis...all have a few name brand models in entry level and fully blinged out versions, all are at price points far above my budget (about $1,000) and far more expensive than some decent spec'd bikes from sites like BD or custom spec on a Framed bike. I try to shop local for parts and accessories, but I can't ever find what I'm looking for in a bike that's ready to go. I'd like to do my own wrenching, but still need local help on some of the more difficult stuff, or those services that require special tools? what kind of help can I expect if I take a bike that I bought online in for local help? I can get a bike with the features and components that I want online, at a price I can afford. I can't do the same at the LBS, but I need them there when I need them...what's the answer?
    Dave
    You might buy used, the seller might buy from a LBS to replace a bike sold, obviously we each determine our budget, our preferences.

  17. #417
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    +1

    You can get yourself into a pretty nice used bike for under $1000. I picked up a used Ice Cream Truck for $900 and still had the LBS sticker on it too. Scan CL often. I donít live too far from your area and have seen some decent bikes on there recently.


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  18. #418
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    Quote Originally Posted by analoguekid View Post
    Forgive me if this is too off topic...but where does support for the LBS end? I've been to all the local shops and we have a lot of them in Minneapolis...all have a few name brand models in entry level and fully blinged out versions, all are at price points far above my budget (about $1,000) and far more expensive than some decent spec'd bikes from sites like BD or custom spec on a Framed bike. I try to shop local for parts and accessories, but I can't ever find what I'm looking for in a bike that's ready to go. I'd like to do my own wrenching, but still need local help on some of the more difficult stuff, or those services that require special tools? what kind of help can I expect if I take a bike that I bought online in for local help? I can get a bike with the features and components that I want online, at a price I can afford. I can't do the same at the LBS, but I need them there when I need them...what's the answer?
    Dave
    I think you answered your own question. I will tell you, if no one bought a bike from a local bike store there wouldn't be any. There's not enough margin in parts sales to keep them afloat. They may be going away no matter what. Two of the shop owners I know pay more in sales tax than in salary. That's a tough book to balance.

  19. #419
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    One of the biggest money making things LBS does is service. The profit margins on parts are next to nothing and not that much on most bikes unless you go in to high end bikes. Any LBS will be happy to do service for you regardless where you got the bike.

    If you can't find a bike in your budget at the local LBS then by all means buy online but you can always take it in for service if you do not want to do it yourself or do not have the time. Out of the last dozen family bikes I only purchased 5 brand new. the rest was used, mostly demo. My first 'real' bike was a $2300 Specialized Epic Comp I picked up as a demo in 2007 from another Phoenix and paid about $1400. My daughter rides it now. My second bike was a also a demo Ibis SL, ~$3.5k and I paid ~$1900. I sold it after 2 years for $1850. My next bike Ibis SLR I decided to buy parts and get it assembled at local LBS. It ended up costing me ~$6k. I got exactly what I wanted but now after gaining more experience I realize I should have build it myself. Still have the bike and love it. Then I got my first fattie Framed Minnesota 2.0 which was new. Sold it after 1 year at a loss and in late 2016 upgraded to Bikesdirect Motobecane Sturgis with bluto fork. Still hanging in garage and will sell at a loss after less than 10 rides as I got an awesome deal on a demo Salsa Bucksaw fattie in Colorado and now that's my favorite bike. It's a $4k bike that I was able to pickup for $2800. My friend just build another wheelset for it in 27.5" 40mm rims, hope hubs and 3.0 tires.

    As you can see I got plenty of great deals on demo bikes and ended up saving a lot. All of these have been shipped and initially serviced at local LBS. Slowly I did more and more maintenance work myself and now I practically do it all. Brake bleeds, pressing in bottom brackets / headsets, fork / shock service to full teardown / rebuilds.

  20. #420
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    I've had my KHS 500 for about a month, have ridden it almost every day. I hadn't ridden a fat bike before purchase, but have known for a long time that I needed one! I might want to upgrade later, but so far I love everything, x-5 2x10 works great every time, Doere hydraulics do their job excellently, CST BFT tires are great but slippery on wet rocks, hope they are good enough in snow. Got paid $1000 cash for some summer work, went to my local bike shop next day, they still had the right colour I was looking at in the spring. Win win. Don't care if I coulda got a better one cheaper. I looked for a used fat bike for 3 months, found nothing I wanted to buy in my price range!

  21. #421
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    Thoughts on this thing?

    Found this while surfing the 'bay. I have no idea what to think about this thing, other than I didn't know there was a market for a full sus folding fat bike. I would love to read others' take on this, but didn't want to create a new thread. I almost posted in the craigslist wtf thread...Name:  s-l500.jpg
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    I don't know why,... it's just MUSS easier to pedal than the other ones.

  22. #422
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    It is one of many that i call simili fat, the tires say fat but the transmission says shit, they are IMHO novelties and a LBS should not offer them. For safety i would not try one. I prefer used over shitty quality, just my view.

  23. #423
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    Just so my position is clearly understood, I agree with everything you typed but I still think you weren't harsh enough.
    I don't know why,... it's just MUSS easier to pedal than the other ones.

  24. #424
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    I disagree. You can find very good deals for new fatties if you know where, and most importantly, WHAT to look for. I, for one, have scored a few very good deals at bikeisland.com. They use a lot of "euphemisms" and misdirection no to hurt the presence of their "mother" site, the infamous BD, but I can say from experience it's a lot of malarkey. Their bikes are cosmetically flawless. No dings nor scratches anywhere or whatsoever.

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  25. #425
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbhammercycle View Post
    Found this while surfing the 'bay. I have no idea what to think about this thing, other than I didn't know there was a market for a full sus folding fat bike. I would love to read others' take on this, but didn't want to create a new thread. I almost posted in the craigslist wtf thread...Name:  s-l500.jpg
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    I guess the question is does it cost less than $1,000?
    A garage full of steel frames means happiness.

  26. #426
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    Quote Originally Posted by CS2 View Post
    I guess the question is does it cost less than $1,000?
    That pic is from an auction listing, starting bid was 513. I've seen some other listings where the price was just over 6. They come in blue, green, gold, etc...
    I don't know why,... it's just MUSS easier to pedal than the other ones.

  27. #427
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    MCHB,
    I know those come stock with the Bulldozers. I am rocking the Dozers on the BEM LTD. Maiden voyage was today. It is a blast. floats over deep sand like nothing. i am 230 and had the psi at 8R 7F. Tomorrow I will be hitting some local single track and have my Strava up and running. I will be posting it up. Cant wait to see how these tires run on singletrack. I have read some really good reviews on them. Snow/sand/packed dirt and loose gravel. So far sand is a win. I will keep you posted. Plus I love the Gravity BEM LTD. I rode a Walgoose(Malus) for a year and loved it. I would recommend it. But comes a time in every fatboys/girls life to upgrade. After one ride on this thing I feel like I have been missing out on something. It shreds out of the box. Cant wait to go tubeless. It didnt even make it to the road until new pedals, a shorter stem and the dozers were on it. Oh and i had to shave down the seat post about an inch. Cant wait til tomorrow.
    Last edited by a1pathfinder67; 11-19-2017 at 05:38 PM. Reason: forgot name

  28. #428
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    Colorado
    Nice set up dude. Awesome bike and awesome video too.

  29. #429
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    Quote Originally Posted by analoguekid View Post
    Forgive me if this is too off topic...but where does support for the LBS end? I've been to all the local shops and we have a lot of them in Minneapolis...all have a few name brand models in entry level and fully blinged out versions, all are at price points far above my budget (about $1,000) and far more expensive than some decent spec'd bikes from sites like BD or custom spec on a Framed bike. I try to shop local for parts and accessories, but I can't ever find what I'm looking for in a bike that's ready to go. I'd like to do my own wrenching, but still need local help on some of the more difficult stuff, or those services that require special tools? what kind of help can I expect if I take a bike that I bought online in for local help? I can get a bike with the features and components that I want online, at a price I can afford. I can't do the same at the LBS, but I need them there when I need them...what's the answer?
    Dave
    my $0.02

    As much as I personally like the guys at my LBS, I find that for what I save in bike purchases via ebay or OLBS, I can afford the necessary tools to do any work that needs to be performed on my bikes. Pretty much anything that can be done at a shop is well within the realm of the average shade tree mechanic. It's definitely not rocket science. And if it's something a little out of the ordinary, there's probably instructional information on the web somewhere.....not to mention the simple satisfaction of doing something right and on your own.

    Also, I live an hour from my nearest shop and odds are they'd need to order any parts that are required. So, when I can get what I need to get going delivered to my door within a couple of days, it doesn't make a lot of sense to make a special trip out of town and to sacrifice my riding for shop time. I value my time as much as I do my money.

  30. #430
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    Some decent deals on aventuron.com

    DB El Oso Grande $950 and El Oso de Acero $543.99

  31. #431
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    Quote Originally Posted by analoguekid View Post
    Forgive me if this is too off topic...but where does support for the LBS end? I've been to all the local shops and we have a lot of them in Minneapolis...all have a few name brand models in entry level and fully blinged out versions, all are at price points far above my budget (about $1,000) and far more expensive than some decent spec'd bikes from sites like BD or custom spec on a Framed bike. I try to shop local for parts and accessories, but I can't ever find what I'm looking for in a bike that's ready to go. I'd like to do my own wrenching, but still need local help on some of the more difficult stuff, or those services that require special tools? what kind of help can I expect if I take a bike that I bought online in for local help? I can get a bike with the features and components that I want online, at a price I can afford. I can't do the same at the LBS, but I need them there when I need them...what's the answer?
    Dave
    Saw a reply to this post and figured I'd weigh in since I'm in the TC area and frequent a few LBSs but do most of my own wrenching.

    We all find our own balance to supporting our LBSs. I use their services when I have something that requires a special tool that is too expensive for me to purchase considering how many times I might use the tool. For example, I would never purchase a Park Tool facer/chaser tool because I have needed it 3 times for 3 bikes when I built them initially. One can also make some tools that are much less expensive than industry standard. For instance a couple nuts, washers and a threaded rod and you have a headset press. I use the LBS as a check against my own wrench work, to view and handle the apparel since I'm picky about shoes and clothing and for good informative conversation. I have not purchased a complete bike from an LBS, I'm not counting the Framed MN that was purchased for me from the House as a Bday gift, since the spring of '03. I think frequenting shops that have a desire to be informative and provide some education to the riders as a part of their mission statement helps. If you go to stores that would rather not talk to you but have you fill out a form for repair services stop going. I find that Freewheel and The Hub are my go to LBSs. I especially like the Hub on Minnehaha for their used section and the small DIY room. The people at Freewheel have always been informative and helpful as well. Both shops have educational classes to help bikers learn how to work on their own bikes. So, what's the answer.... there is no right or wrong and no one answer for everyone. It is important to support our LBSs, but you have to find the balance that works for you and your checkbook.
    I don't know why,... it's just MUSS easier to pedal than the other ones.

  32. #432
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    Longhaulbiker,
    Just so you know. I had a freewheel on my walgoose and upgraded to a shimano megarange for about $17. That was including the freewheel tool I picked up from my LBS. The megarange 7 speed had the granny gear 34t. Made a world of difference and once you tweak the derailleur just right it was a smooth transition to the big gear. Not difficult to do either. Youtube. Toughest part is getting the freewheel off. Requires a lot of torque. But I am far from a gear head and its very doable. Here is Bullseye Monster LTD stock version, aside from shorter stem.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Fatbikes under 00 bucks-cedar-creek-hill-1.jpg  

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    Last edited by pathfinder67; 12-01-2017 at 05:04 AM.

  33. #433
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    Are there any "modern" geometry budget fat bikes? It seems like most of them still have 460-470mm chainstays, I'm thinking about something a little more nimble, but under $1000.
    http://www.bikingtoplay.blogspot.com/
    RIGID, not "ridged" or "ridgid"
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  34. #434
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    Quote Originally Posted by seat_boy View Post
    Are there any "modern" geometry budget fat bikes? It seems like most of them still have 460-470mm chainstays, I'm thinking about something a little more nimble, but under $1000.
    Hi seat_boy, i sugggest you look for a used FatBoy by Specialized. From memory the chainstay is 455 or 450 and it comes with 90mm rims, a decent transmission, and tires good enough to use in snow. Most new fat under 1,000 you will feel the need to invest in upgrades. Around here(Montreal) it has been popular the last 4 years

  35. #435
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    Quote Originally Posted by seat_boy View Post
    Are there any "modern" geometry budget fat bikes? It seems like most of them still have 460-470mm chainstays, I'm thinking about something a little more nimble, but under $1000.
    Motobecane lurch 447

  36. #436
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    Wondering peopleís personal opinion (I donít know much about fat bikes). I am looking at a few used bikes and wonder peopleís thoughts on the best route to take:

    2016 Framed Minnesota 2.0 - $525
    2015 Charge Cooker Maxi 2 - $650
    2015 Motobecane Sturgis Bullet - $750
    2015/16 Motobecane Boris X9 - $700

    Most look stock, the Boris changed out a few items. The Sturgis has a Bluto. Anyways, I just bought a full suspension bike so Iím trying to get best value under $700. I donít even know if Iíll like fat bike riding yet beyond the few small demos I have done (which I enjoyed).

    Iíd assume my best option is the Sturgis or the Maxi, but again, not 100% sure what others would steer me towards...

  37. #437
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    First how many months will you use it, if like me it is 4 months or less you do not need a suspension the large tires are enough.
    - second, to roll fast on packed trails 4 in tires are enough but to use it often even on softer surfaces you want tires 4.6-4.8 ideally designed for winter
    - third many entry level transmission are for street, test if you can pedal uphill it beats pushing your bike, well in my book, my preferred gear is 22 front with 36 back, it leaves me 8 months for fast and 4 months that i can ride allmost daily, even studs are great but on a budget you might have to use screws from inside, look youtube also for tire pressure,
    -- stay away from anything with less than 10 speeds, i mean 10, 18 or more are fine to use in snow, if only 1 ring in front 28 is max
    --- ask santa for snowshoes
    - enjoy

  38. #438
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    Quote Originally Posted by 33red View Post
    First how many months will you use it, if like me it is 4 months or less you do not need a suspension the large tires are enough.
    - second, to roll fast on packed trails 4 in tires are enough but to use it often even on softer surfaces you want tires 4.6-4.8 ideally designed for winter
    - third many entry level transmission are for street, test if you can pedal uphill it beats pushing your bike, well in my book, my preferred gear is 22 front with 36 back, it leaves me 8 months for fast and 4 months that i can ride allmost daily, even studs are great but on a budget you might have to use screws from inside, look youtube also for tire pressure,
    -- stay away from anything with less than 10 speeds, i mean 10, 18 or more are fine to use in snow, if only 1 ring in front 28 is max
    --- ask santa for snowshoes
    - enjoy
    I just got a SC 5010... so if their is dirt on the ground and no salt, that is what I will be using. So maybe for 3-4 months. I want it for fun rides in a snow.
    '17 Santa Cruz Bronson 2 A S
    '17 Trek Farley 7

  39. #439
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    Quote Originally Posted by vanquishphoto View Post
    I just got a SC 5010... so if their is dirt on the ground and no salt, that is what I will be using. So maybe for 3-4 months. I want it for fun rides in a snow.
    Around 750$US i guess you might find a decent used one, good luck

  40. #440
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    Quote Originally Posted by vanquishphoto View Post
    Wondering peopleís personal opinion (I donít know much about fat bikes). I am looking at a few used bikes and wonder peopleís thoughts on the best route to take:

    2016 Framed Minnesota 2.0 - $525
    2015 Charge Cooker Maxi 2 - $650
    2015 Motobecane Sturgis Bullet - $750
    2015/16 Motobecane Boris X9 - $700

    Most look stock, the Boris changed out a few items. The Sturgis has a Bluto. Anyways, I just bought a full suspension bike so Iím trying to get best value under $700. I donít even know if Iíll like fat bike riding yet beyond the few small demos I have done (which I enjoyed).

    Iíd assume my best option is the Sturgis or the Maxi, but again, not 100% sure what others would steer me towards...
    Rather than ask the question as which bike is the best bang for the buck, you should be looking at geo, tire clearance and determining which will be the better bike as to how you intend to ride it. What have you demo'ed, were you able to demo any of the options listed? Did you demo fatties with different rear ends, 170 vs 190? Could you feel the difference? What size tires do you want/need? I don't know that having a Bluto will be an advantage for winter riding, but that depends on the area in which you ride. The Cooker is steel, while the others are aluminum if that matters. They will likely not have tubeless rims, and they might all be Weinmann HL-80 rims. The Borris and MN2 has the older standard widths (135/170) while the Sturgis will have the newest standard (150/190). Is the Cooker a 135 offset?

    It's personal as to what you will like and I'll admit that I wanted the MN2.2 to work for me, but I realized after the first year that I wanted something else. That said, there are a lot of people riding them around me in MN. When I listed mine for sale, it was gone within the week.
    I don't know why,... it's just MUSS easier to pedal than the other ones.

  41. #441
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    I'll help you narrow that fast: if you're a Clydesdale you need to get the fattest. If you're a beanpole you can go semi-fat. Then again this bikes are all about the float and the crazy things that allows you to pull, so, IMO, you'll always benefit from the fattest, indistinct of your weight.

    Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk

  42. #442
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    Quote Originally Posted by hectorlandaeta View Post
    I'll help you narrow that fast: if you're a Clydesdale you need to get the fattest. If you're a beanpole you can go semi-fat. Then again this bikes are all about the float and the crazy things that allows you to pull, so, IMO, you'll always benefit from the fattest, indistinct of your weight.

    Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk
    I've got a '16 Kona Wo that can run Jumbo Jims but I'm running Surly Nates at the moment. You can always use less tire but once you own it the maximum tire size is a done deal.

  43. #443
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    Quote Originally Posted by vanquishphoto View Post
    Wondering peopleís personal opinion (I donít know much about fat bikes). I am looking at a few used bikes and wonder peopleís thoughts on the best route to take:

    2016 Framed Minnesota 2.0 - $525
    2015 Charge Cooker Maxi 2 - $650
    2015 Motobecane Sturgis Bullet - $750
    2015/16 Motobecane Boris X9 - $700

    Most look stock, the Boris changed out a few items. The Sturgis has a Bluto. Anyways, I just bought a full suspension bike so Iím trying to get best value under $700. I donít even know if Iíll like fat bike riding yet beyond the few small demos I have done (which I enjoyed).

    Iíd assume my best option is the Sturgis or the Maxi, but again, not 100% sure what others would steer me towards...
    My vote is for the Sturgis. Geometry similar to Spec Fatboy. 150 front 197 rear gives most options for wide tires if needed. I think '15 should have Mulefut rims which are tubeless. That's a big plus. I had one for my first 2 seasons. The Sturgis Bullet should have a raceface crank/BB, alright SRAM shifter/derailleur, and bluto. Brakes are serviceable but not awesome. I still use most of the components on my new frame I built up.

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    New felt dd70 purchase needs some love.

  45. #445
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    First post noob, Purchased a Rockhopper last July as a 1st timer now looking for a FB for a 60yr old winter leisure rider/exercisebike. I have been checking CL and such but being of short stature there are not many small frame size available 5-7" 29" inseam 160lbs.
    Thinking Mn 3.0 as the 2.0 and 2.2 are taller standover heights.
    Are the stock 4"tires big enough for groomed trail? Local trail is Elm Creek MN.
    Would the $400 Bluto upgrade be worth it for what is typically described as flowy trail?
    I much prefer riding single track vs bike path but at a leisurely pace to avoid injury, Studded tire required? or recommended?

    Thnx

  46. #446
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iffykid View Post
    First post noob, Purchased a Rockhopper last July as a 1st timer now looking for a FB for a 60yr old winter leisure rider/exercisebike. I have been checking CL and such but being of short stature there are not many small frame size available 5-7" 29" inseam 160lbs.
    Thinking Mn 3.0 as the 2.0 and 2.2 are taller standover heights.
    Are the stock 4"tires big enough for groomed trail? Local trail is Elm Creek MN.
    Would the $400 Bluto upgrade be worth it for what is typically described as flowy trail?
    I much prefer riding single track vs bike path but at a leisurely pace to avoid injury, Studded tire required? or recommended?

    Thnx
    A 4" tire is just fine for a groomed singletrack, and you can fit a bit wider if you are willing to sacrifice a little by removing the smallest cogs and spacing the cassette outwards for chain clearance. I would recommend trying all the Framed fat bikes at the Little Canada location off Owasso Blvd. You can take a quick round about the parking lot and see which fits you best. The geometry of the MN series are a little different. Also, the 1.0 and 2.0 have a 170mm rear end (135mm front, 2.2 has a 150mm) and will have slightly narrower q-factors while the 3.0 will have a 190 rear end and be available with a wider set of tires for a bit extra. I found the 2.0 to be more nimble and have a more upright riding position, which may be something you find that you like, in comparison to the 3.0. The 3.0 rides a bit more like a tank IMO. The 1.0 has a ETT between the 2.0 and 3.0 if I recall correctly. I personally would choose the bike that fits best and see what they can do if you would like better components. I was able to pay the difference for a better handlebar for example and you can upgrade to BB7s from the BB5s as part of a package upgrade. You may even want to try the Wolftrax while you are there. The Framed builds are very customizable, so get the frame that fits you best. I don't know that you would need the Bluto, but you should still get the alu fork if you don't like the front sus and could sell it later. They may also have the RST fork which will be cheaper, but has less resale value as well. If you are riding trail in the summer than the sus might be nice. Studded tires are quite expensive, some over $200/tire. You could get grip studs and install them yourself which would be cheaper. I'm still not using studs and I have ridden across lakes, but I will admit that I have fallen in areas with ice ruts. It's a personal call but those with them are vocal and positive about their experience. Hope you can find something you like. Happy Rollin' through the Holidays!
    I don't know why,... it's just MUSS easier to pedal than the other ones.

  47. #447
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbhammercycle View Post
    A 4" tire is just fine for a groomed singletrack, and you can fit a bit wider if you are willing to sacrifice a little by removing the smallest cogs and spacing the cassette outwards for chain clearance. I would recommend trying all the Framed fat bikes at the Little Canada location off Owasso Blvd. You can take a quick round about the parking lot and see which fits you best. The geometry of the MN series are a little different. Also, the 1.0 and 2.0 have a 170mm rear end (135mm front, 2.2 has a 150mm) and will have slightly narrower q-factors while the 3.0 will have a 190 rear end and be available with a wider set of tires for a bit extra. I found the 2.0 to be more nimble and have a more upright riding position, which may be something you find that you like, in comparison to the 3.0. The 3.0 rides a bit more like a tank IMO. The 1.0 has a ETT between the 2.0 and 3.0 if I recall correctly. I personally would choose the bike that fits best and see what they can do if you would like better components. I was able to pay the difference for a better handlebar for example and you can upgrade to BB7s from the BB5s as part of a package upgrade. You may even want to try the Wolftrax while you are there. The Framed builds are very customizable, so get the frame that fits you best. I don't know that you would need the Bluto, but you should still get the alu fork if you don't like the front sus and could sell it later. They may also have the RST fork which will be cheaper, but has less resale value as well. If you are riding trail in the summer than the sus might be nice. Studded tires are quite expensive, some over $200/tire. You could get grip studs and install them yourself which would be cheaper. I'm still not using studs and I have ridden across lakes, but I will admit that I have fallen in areas with ice ruts. It's a personal call but those with them are vocal and positive about their experience. Hope you can find something you like. Happy Rollin' through the Holidays!
    Appreciate the feed back.
    Other than standover height not really sure where to start and would prefer to stay under $1000 until I figure out how much riding I actually do, I tried to ride Elm Creek 2-3 times a week summer/fall but the wet conditions had the trails closed much of the time.
    Will have to check into other models and whats involved in studding tires.
    Blaine so not much of a drive so will need to check out models in person will check the LC location.

    Thnx

  48. #448
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iffykid View Post
    Thinking Mn 3.0 as the 2.0 and 2.2 are taller standover heights.
    Are the stock 4"tires big enough for groomed trail? Local trail is Elm Creek MN.
    Would the $400 Bluto upgrade be worth it for what is typically described as flowy trail?
    I much prefer riding single track vs bike path but at a leisurely pace to avoid injury, Studded tire required? or recommended?

    Thnx
    Elm Creek is a quick pedal from my house. As long as you don't go out right after a large snowfall, 4" should be fine at Elm Creek. It usually gets lots of traffic and they are very timely at grooming it so you don't need tons of float. Studs are debatable. Last winter they were pretty much a necessity for most of the season since it was a luge track after Xmas for the most part due to rains and high temps. Previous winter it was mostly fine without studs. This year it's been fine so far sans studs. I ride paved paths from my house so I see more ice and always use studs once snow flies.

    I rode 1 winter at EC with a rigid fork and 1 with a bluto. For the most part the snow evens out the bumps so Bluto isn't needed in winter. There are runners that use the trail so you get some footprints here and there. There's an inconsiderate guy that likes to walk a huge dog down the middle of the trail when it's warm out and then freezes big footprints so sometimes the bumps make a bluto nice to have. It's defintely not needed.

  49. #449
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ohio216 View Post
    New felt dd70 purchase needs some love.
    Agreed! I just got mine for $1100 from a shop about an hour from me ( to replace a Pugsly that was too small for me)... The only part I had to change out after two rides were the craaaaaaaaaap Tektro Novella brakes.... Swapped in a set of bb7s and now it stops right. Rides really well.

    With that said, my LBS is a Framed dealer and wifey-poo fell in love with a Wolftrax Alloy they had on sale for $899. With a Deore 2x10 setup and bb5 brakes it's been awesome for her. If they had one in my size when I was looking for me I would have gone that route.

  50. #450
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    Thanks
    Perhaps I would be better off skipping Bluto for now and save the money towards studded tires in the future if needed.

  51. #451
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    GMC Yukon, 120/190/150 spacing aluminum frame.

    I started a thread here: GMC Yukon - Kent 52618

  52. #452
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    Quote Originally Posted by theBarzeen View Post
    Agreed! I just got mine for $1100 from a shop about an hour from me ( to replace a Pugsly that was too small for me)... The only part I had to change out after two rides were the craaaaaaaaaap Tektro Novella brakes.... Swapped in a set of bb7s and now it stops right. Rides really well.

    With that said, my LBS is a Framed dealer and wifey-poo fell in love with a Wolftrax Alloy they had on sale for $899. With a Deore 2x10 setup and bb5 brakes it's been awesome for her. If they had one in my size when I was looking for me I would have gone that route.
    Who is your LBS? I have been looking at the Wolftrax Alloy but the House wants $999 for the Deore and $899 for the Sram

    Thnx

  53. #453
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iffykid View Post
    Who is your LBS? I have been looking at the Wolftrax Alloy but the House wants $999 for the Deore and $899 for the Sram

    Thnx
    I was at Valley Bike and Ski in Apple Valley today. they have a handful of Norco and others under 1K. They also have a few DD's in the 30 and 70 models. they don't fit the Under a grand threshold, but nicely spec'd for slightly higher...

  54. #454
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iffykid View Post
    Thanks
    Perhaps I would be better off skipping Bluto for now and save the money towards studded tires in the future if needed.
    Make yer own studded tires?
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?annota...&v=oweW948dKVM

  55. #455
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    Quote Originally Posted by analoguekid View Post
    At around a dollar per stud wouldn't it be around the same price to purchase pre-studded tyres?

  56. #456
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iffykid View Post
    At around a dollar per stud wouldn't it be around the same price to purchase pre-studded tyres?
    I: it looks like you're correct about costs...I was thinking along the lines of cost of buying a cheap 26X4 (about $40) and stud kits (50 studs for about $20/kit). You'd have about $140 into building them out. Vee Snowshoes (4.8) with 240 studs on Amazon under $160. Where is that quote about the most expensive studded tire costs less than a visit to the Emergency Room?

  57. #457
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    In the province of quebec we can use a fatbike on snow about 4 months.
    Some use cheap tires 3.8 in and enjoy a few days when the trails are nice and fast.
    Others Fat as often as possible, to achieve that we use
    A- 4.8 tires for flotation
    B- real winter tires for snow
    C- studded for ice, freezing rain etc
    I bought a Bud/Lou allmost new for 200$ added 200 grip studs for 200$ (100 front + 100 rear) so i have been riding my fat daily since dec 12.

    The other 8 months i ride a hardtail so i do not need a suspension on my fat i need low gears for climbing.

  58. #458
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    Me and my bro picked up the $200 Mongoose Hitch. It sucks, but it sucks in a good way where you don't feel bad about it.

    Fatbikes under 00 bucks-hitch.jpg

  59. #459
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdxfixed View Post
    Me and my bro picked up the $200 Mongoose Hitch. It sucks, but it sucks in a good way where you don't feel bad about it.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I rode the Malus for a year. It is a great bike for the money. I enjoyed the hell out of it. Then I upgraded to the GBEM LTD. It's like night and day. I have ridden the Malus a couple of times since, but not on the trails. The biggest difference is the weight. The LTD is much lighter and easier to ride. It just seems much easier to handle. But when strapped for cash those Walgoose bikes are a great deal and the tires are more than adequate for the trails. I don't know where you live, but my best piece of advice for an upgrade is the megarange freewheel from shimano. $15 will get you up them hills with ease. Enjoy!!!

  60. #460
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    Quote Originally Posted by seat_boy View Post
    Are there any "modern" geometry budget fat bikes? It seems like most of them still have 460-470mm chainstays, I'm thinking about something a little more nimble, but under $1000.
    Kona Wozo...420mm chainstays, I think. Not cheap though.

  61. #461
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    ^ There is a thread about this specific topic.

    Any Modern Geometry Fatbikes

    None of the options are under the 1K limit set in this thread. A cheaper option that could be built under 1K with a rigid fork would have been the On One fatty Trail, but cs was still 450.
    I don't know why,... it's just MUSS easier to pedal than the other ones.

  62. #462
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Fithian View Post
    GMC Yukon, 120/190/150 spacing aluminum frame.

    I started a thread here: GMC Yukon - Kent 52618
    I've put together two of these for my wife & I, replacing the seat post and stock tires.

    His: Tubeless Origin8 Tsunami 4.9 120 TPI Folding bead tires and a different seat.

    Hers: Tubeless Origin8 Tsunami 4.0 120 TPI folding bead tires. Weight is 33.8 lbs as pictured.

    Lifetime frame/fork warranty.

    Total cost to set up like this is $500 each.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Fatbikes under 00 bucks-gmc-yukon-origin8-tsunami-4.9.jpg  

    Fatbikes under 00 bucks-yukon-built-tsunami-4-tires.jpg  


  63. #463
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    Is it still under $1000 if you dump $995 +tax on the bike and another $500 on studded tires
    Blaine, Mn

  64. #464
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    I think as long as the sticker price or your parts list if building is at the 1K mark, it counts. Anything after that is symptomatic of upgraditis...
    I don't know why,... it's just MUSS easier to pedal than the other ones.

  65. #465
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbhammercycle View Post
    I think as long as the sticker price or your parts list if building is at the 1K mark, it counts. Anything after that is symptomatic of upgraditis...
    I tried a Wolftrax 3.0 with Hydro brakes $995+tax, Now from MORC EC trails are iced over and having to consider studded tires as well $$$$$$
    or purchase bike ride trails and then decide on studded tires.
    Blaine, Mn

  66. #466
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    I hope you enjoy your new fat tire and lay down some trax! I certainly hear you, the Luce Line has some ice issues and the section outside my 'hood is closed for some Xcel Energy work. Anyway, another option might be grip studs. There is a thread here somewhere about some chinese knock off studs that might help the wallet a little. It's possible someone in that thread from MN ordered a bulk load too. Finally, don't forget to check craigslist, you might find some studded tires or used ones for grip studs if you don't want to install them on the your newer tires. I hope when you look outside right now, your as happy as I am! Happy Rollin'!
    I don't know why,... it's just MUSS easier to pedal than the other ones.

  67. #467
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    Quote Originally Posted by pathfinder67 View Post
    I rode the Malus for a year. It is a great bike for the money. I enjoyed the hell out of it. Then I upgraded to the GBEM LTD. It's like night and day. I have ridden the Malus a couple of times since, but not on the trails. The biggest difference is the weight. The LTD is much lighter and easier to ride. It just seems much easier to handle. But when strapped for cash those Walgoose bikes are a great deal and the tires are more than adequate for the trails. I don't know where you live, but my best piece of advice for an upgrade is the megarange freewheel from shimano. $15 will get you up them hills with ease. Enjoy!!!
    Megarange freewheel upgrade happened after ~4 hours of ride time, as the stock unit went megafixie while coasting downhill...

  68. #468
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iffykid View Post
    I tried a Wolftrax 3.0 with Hydro brakes $995+tax, Now from MORC EC trails are iced over and having to consider studded tires as well $$$$$$
    or purchase bike ride trails and then decide on studded tires.
    Pics or it didn't happen!

  69. #469
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    Quote Originally Posted by analoguekid View Post
    Pics or it didn't happen!
    Tried as in demo.
    Just spent 1/2hr outside cleaning up my drive from recent snow -2f my hands and feet are cold maybe winter riding isn't for me
    Blaine, Mn

  70. #470
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    Awesome!!! I know it was like a different bike once you have that granny gear. Only other adjustments I made were a trigger shifter and drilled some holes in the rims. More for looks than weight, even though every ounce counts in them wheels. Those Chinese tires were heavy, but they rolled over and thru every challenge. Made me a fatty for life. I am sure you and your bro are spending a lot of time on them trails. Have fun!!!

  71. #471
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iffykid View Post
    Just spent 1/2hr outside cleaning up my drive from recent snow -2f my hands and feet are cold maybe winter riding isn't for me
    Gotta get the right gear for winter riding or it is MISERABLE! Good gloves and socks are a must. also Barmits are killer. Good boots make a difference also.
    2013 Cannondale F29 1 Alloy
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  72. #472
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    If you're really tall, BD has a few of their 21" boris X9 on sale for stupid cheap. No idea how many, but worth looking at if you're in the market. And really tall.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  73. #473
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbhammercycle View Post
    ^ There is a thread about this specific topic.

    Any Modern Geometry Fatbikes

    None of the options are under the 1K limit set in this thread. A cheaper option that could be built under 1K with a rigid fork would have been the On One fatty Trail, but cs was still 450.
    The on one fatty v2 frame is still being sold on the on one website for around $250 or so.

  74. #474
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pack66 View Post
    The on one fatty v2 frame is still being sold on the on one website for around $250 or so.
    Yeah, at one point the Fatty Trail frame was sold at a low price of 75+75 shipping which would have enabled a decent spec build with a rigid fork and still be under the 1K mark. The standard fatty V2 may not fit the criteria of modern geo still having longish chainstays at 445 and having a standard length ETT of 595 for the med, where frames having modern geo would be more like 610 (the ETT of the FT med frame is 620). Though the HTA is 68 and is slackish. Don't know about BB drop on that frame either. Also, the price at 325 including shipping for just the frame would make it more difficult to get a decent spec build under 1K, not impossible but difficult.
    I don't know why,... it's just MUSS easier to pedal than the other ones.

  75. #475
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    Specialized 2017 Fatboy and Hellga Closeout

    Picked up a brand new 2017 Hellga for my daughter around $800. There are still some left...
    Thanks,
    GMBike

  76. #476
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    Quote Originally Posted by GMBike View Post
    Picked up a brand new 2017 Hellga for my daughter around $800. There are still some left...
    Where did you find at that price?
    Blaine, Mn

  77. #477
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iffykid View Post
    Where did you find at that price?
    I believe all Specialized dealers have access. Iím in NY (Long Island).
    Thanks,
    GMBike

  78. #478
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    My Google fu is weak all I could find for $800 is kids size bikes, Cheapest full size I can find are $1200+
    Blaine, Mn

  79. #479
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iffykid View Post
    My Google fu is weak all I could find for $800 is kids size bikes, Cheapest full size I can find are $1200+
    You may want to call some local Specialized dealers...
    Thanks,
    GMBike

  80. #480
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iffykid View Post
    My Google fu is weak all I could find for $800 is kids size bikes, Cheapest full size I can find are $1200+
    Any luck?
    Thanks,
    GMBike

  81. #481
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    No!
    Blaine, Mn

  82. #482
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    Hello!

    I want to apologize for my English before I tell you about my fat bike. I'm from Russia.

    I ordered my bicycle in China for $ 300. I did not know about fat bikes anything then.
    It's no-name fat-bike, but it was a level like as Mongoose Dolomite.

    After some time I made a small upgrade of the transmission. I installed SRAM NX upgrade kit + crankset with NW. No-name tires 4.0 (and 2.5 kg or 4,4 lbf) were replaced to CST ROLY-POLY 4.8 (and 1,7 kg or 3,7 lbf).

    At the moment my bicycle costs around 500-550 dollars.

    I plan to put a carbon fork with offset in the future. This will make the bike a little longer and lighter. Now the bicycle weighs 16kg or 35 lbf.

    Thank You!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Fatbikes under 00 bucks-fat1.jpg  

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    Fatbikes under 00 bucks-fat3.jpg  

    Last edited by Iron Felix; 02-02-2018 at 02:05 AM.

  83. #483
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    Gravity Bullseye Monster Pro $699

    Got my first bike in 20 years, Friday, after scouring this site and a lot of googling. I put it together and adjusted everything, per recommendations on this site and then took it to the LBS to give it a once over. Immediately took it out for a ďquickĒ 10 miles and had a blast in the mud and muck. I came home covered in mud and with the biggest smile. This bike is a blast to ride and made the trails pretty damn easy, now I canít wait to do it more!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Fatbikes under 00 bucks-aa5e9ec4-6ecf-49db-bcc4-683130197aa3.jpg  


  84. #484
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iron Felix View Post
    Hello!

    I want to apologize for my English before I tell you about my fat bike. I'm from Russia.

    I ordered my bicycle in China for $ 300. I did not know about fat bikes anything then.
    It's no-name fat-bike, but it was a level like as Mongoose Dolomite.

    After some time I made a small upgrade of the transmission. I installed SRAM NX upgrade kit + crankset with NW. No-name tires 4.0 (and 2.5 kg or 4,4 lbf) were replaced to CST ROLY-POLY 4.8 (and 1,7 kg or 3,7 lbf).

    At the moment my bicycle costs around 500-550 dollars.

    I plan to put a carbon fork with offset in the future. This will make the bike a little longer and lighter. Now the bicycle weighs 16kg or 35 lbf.

    Thank You!
    Your English is far better than my Russian! Nice bike!

  85. #485
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    Quote Originally Posted by @WhatCost View Post
    Got my first bike in 20 years, Friday, after scouring this site and a lot of googling. I put it together and adjusted everything, per recommendations on this site and then took it to the LBS to give it a once over. Immediately took it out for a ďquickĒ 10 miles and had a blast in the mud and muck. I came home covered in mud and with the biggest smile. This bike is a blast to ride and made the trails pretty damn easy, now I canít wait to do it more!
    Congrats on the bike! Enjoy it.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  86. #486
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    Picked up a red dolomite for about 300. (Had to specify because the red one has better mountain specific components) I put in about 65 dollars in it so far and upgrade the bars, shifters, and grips. I've had it for 2 months and I've taken it off a bunch of drops and jumps and the rims are still dead straight. Its a really good beginner fatty but if you put better components on it you can really make it a nice bike. But the first thing you should do is take off that crappy twist shifter though.

  87. #487
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    Your English is far better than my Russian! Nice bike!
    Thx ;-)

  88. #488
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    I picked up a framed wolftrax frame for $280 bucks and did the build for $1875. It includes a Manitou Mastodon fork 120mm, hope pro 4 fatso hubs, Surely Darryl Holly rims, Hope tech v4, brakes, hope disc, diety bars, sram gx 11 speed, giant dropper, a e13 hive 9-46 cassette, and race face crank.

    Fatbikes under 00 bucks-20180120_185804.jpg

    Fatbikes under 00 bucks-20180120_185701.jpg

  89. #489
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    Quote Originally Posted by camelkicker View Post
    i picked up a framed wolftrax frame for $280 bucks and did the build for $1875. It includes a manitou mastodon fork 120mm, hope pro 4 fatso hubs, surely darryl holly rims, hope tech v4, brakes, hope disc, diety bars, sram gx 11 speed, giant dropper, a e13 hive 9-46 cassette, and race face crank.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    lol
    Blaine, Mn

  90. #490
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    Quote Originally Posted by camelkicker View Post
    I picked up a framed wolftrax frame for $280 bucks and did the build for $1875. It includes a Manitou Mastodon fork 120mm, hope pro 4 fatso hubs, Surely Darryl Holly rims, Hope tech v4, brakes, hope disc, diety bars, sram gx 11 speed, giant dropper, a e13 hive 9-46 cassette, and race face crank.
    Nearly cracked that $1k budget. Nice build all the same

  91. #491
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    Quote Originally Posted by @WhatCost View Post
    Got my first bike in 20 years, Friday, after scouring this site and a lot of googling. I put it together and adjusted everything, per recommendations on this site and then took it to the LBS to give it a once over. Immediately took it out for a ďquickĒ 10 miles and had a blast in the mud and muck. I came home covered in mud and with the biggest smile. This bike is a blast to ride and made the trails pretty damn easy, now I canít wait to do it more!
    That's awesome! I'm eyeing the same bike at the moment

  92. #492
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    Framed Minnesota LTD, hits the target:
    https://www.the-house.com/qfrmnltd16...fat-bikes.html

  93. #493
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    Quote Originally Posted by analoguekid View Post
    Framed Minnesota LTD, hits the target:
    https://www.the-house.com/qfrmnltd16...fat-bikes.html
    Looks similar to a diamondback


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  94. #494
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    Quote Originally Posted by analoguekid View Post
    Framed Minnesota LTD, hits the target:
    https://www.the-house.com/qfrmnltd16...fat-bikes.html


    Max rear tire width 26X4"
    Blaine, Mn

  95. #495
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    So I switched the tires on my GBEM LTD. The Dozers were heavy but they rotated very well. Until you hit mud or snow. They were great on sand and dry singletrack. Add water/snow and everything stuck to them. This caused less traction and more weight on tires. I have had the JJ 4.0 lites for almost a month and half now. We had snow twice and always plenty of mud and water holes here. Have now ridden them in every condition and on every surface. Awesome tires. Good traction in mud and snow. NOTHING sticks to them. Great traction on ALL dry surfaces. Also almost zero bounce on very bumpy trails. They are very smooth and very fast and dropped 2.5 lbs off of my wheel set. Best upgrade ever. All I do is ride...and smile a lot!!!

    http://ficdn.mtbr.com/images/attach/jpg.gif
    http://ficdn.mtbr.com/images/attach/jpg.gif
    http://ficdn.mtbr.com/images/attach/jpg.gif
    http://ficdn.mtbr.com/images/attach/jpg.gif
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  96. #496
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iffykid View Post
    Max rear tire width 26X4"
    With a 1x and 70mm rims I expect a 4.4 Jumbo Jim or 4.3 Edna may fit the Framed LTD.

    For the price that looks like a nice build.

  97. #497
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    Hello!

    I want to apologize for my English again because i am from Russian Federation.

    I wrote about my fatbike which based on the Chinese frame.
    You can find my post above.

    As I planned, I bought a carbon fork. It is Chinese fork looks like Lamere. I think this fork from the same factory )))
    In addition, I decided to install hydraulic brakes. I chose Sram Level T.

    I do not believe in God. ButÖ God bless America for a company Sram!!! ))).

    So I spent around $250 on brakes and fork.

    And now my fat cost about $750-$800
    By the way, from this amount you can take away the cost of the old components. I think it's $75-$100

    I finished with main upgrade.

    Rotors, seat, rim tape and some other things will be replaced in the future. I think that this can not be considered.

    Thank you!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Fatbikes under 00 bucks-t-ekelgfwha.jpg  

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  98. #498
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    Smile

    Good bad or otherwise I left the House with a Framed Alaskan Alloy on sale for $850 otd $912.62 which got me in the under $1000 thread
    I went in too look at the Wolftracx NX Race for $1199, The standover felt taller on the Wolftrax even thou the spec show it being 1/2" shorter glad I was able to check them both out before purchasing.

    Hopefully the local trails will open which have been closed due to rain muddy tear up the trail conditions.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Fatbikes under 00 bucks-img_20180614_075307269.jpg  

    Last edited by Iffykid; 06-14-2018 at 02:09 PM.
    Blaine, Mn

  99. #499
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    Bd gbem

    image hosting websites



    2014 Gravity Bullseye Monster with an aluminum fork and a couple swapped out cockpit parts. Weighs 34.1 lbs, wheelset isn't the greatest but it works really well and is durable. The stock crank has started to creak a little bit but I ride it year round. Dillinger 4s are awesome. Bike was 499 and I put ~$200 into it with parts and tires.

    I am thinking about getting a new crank for it, any suggestions out there? I'm a sucker for RaceFace. Possibly a new wheelset if I can find a deal.

    Seeing as how the bike is 4 years old and I have to perform virtually zero maintenance on it, it was a steal. It only weighs 3 more lbs than my wife's stock Specialized Jynx, which probably means I need to make that bike lighter.

    Bikesdirect is pretty legit. I just bought a new CX bike from them and it's great.
    Last edited by 218traverse; 06-23-2018 at 08:55 AM.

  100. #500
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    Anyone got any experience with the DB El Oso? Have a chance to pick a barely used one up for $800 dollars and I'm wondering if I'd be stupid not to.

    Struggling to find many helpful reviews, most seem to give it a good rep but don't really explain why aside from "it's a good bike" etc etc:

    https://bikebrave.com/best-fat-tire-...icycles-El-Oso

    Any first hand experiences!

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