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  1. #151
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    Under $1500!
    The big brands are still excising a Fat tax and Surly/Salsa have always charged a premium for great marketing.
    The wheel is a extension of the foot

  2. #152
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    Cool-blue Rhythm

    Quote Originally Posted by hectorlandaeta View Post
    Hardly! The other half that doesn't own Motobacons are big time haters!
    I own a Motobacon and cracked the frame at the front headset after seven years of abuse. Of course I was bunny hopping over concrete curbs and launching the damn thing into the air, coming down hard. I took it in and they replaced the frame for free and did it within a week. I was amazed. But that doesn't inspire me to buy another one.

  3. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Doom View Post
    Under $1500!
    The big brands are still excising a Fat tax and Surly/Salsa have always charged a premium for great marketing.
    And I notice their web site looks like it was designed by a 13 year old, reminds me of the old snowboard sites, but even Burton has cleaned up their act. Supposed to be cool, but comes off as arrested development. And their bikes are made in the same place as my cheapo Dolemite, just with upgraded components. But how do we know if they are not knockoff's? We don't.

  4. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZINGER View Post
    And their bikes are made in the same place as my cheapo Dolemite, just with upgraded components. But how do we know if they are not knockoff's? We don't.
    Nah, Got that wrong I believe.. Motobacons are mostly made in Kinesis, REPUBLIC of China (Taiwan). Moongeese are made in PRC, continental China (Commie as they come, no human rights and the whole enchilada). If you're Rommney adept it shouldn't make a difference. Bringing geopolitics into a bike buying decision IS, I gladly admit, kinda extreme but to me the choice of buying from someplace where they practice normal contraception opposed to some other place where they did (or do) very late stage abortions as the state sponsored birth control device is kinda compelling. Anyway, bike components are made mostly, if not all in the PRC, so there's no avoiding it.

  5. #155
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    Does anyone know the exact model and size of the rear derailleur? Trying to figure out if it will work with 1x10 setup

  6. #156
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    I get your misgivings, but hard to avoid prc products.... like 90% + of the fishing rods I ever sold were from China.
    You guys have much more choice in bargain price fat bikes. 2-3 options real low in uk, bought and upgraded a basic sandseeker, got a tough ride with ok bits for around 1,000 in your money.
    Bought some bits from Stateside, better service and knowledge in the country that spawned the genre!

  7. #157
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    Quote Originally Posted by deton8r View Post
    I just got a 16" Gravity Knockout complete bike from BikeIsland for my gf 2 weeks ago. Didn't even have the clearance issue on hers but put a Lizard Skin on the chainstay as the chain comes pretty close. Not sure if I got a lucky one or what. Paid $299 shipped. She's new to riding so I didn't want to invest a bunch of money on something that might not get used much. Nice looking bike and only had to do some minor tuning of the brakes and derailleurs to get it going. The Tektro brakes were much easier to dial in than the Avid BB5s that came with my fat bike. For the riding she'll do on it, it's a really good value for a complete entry level fat bike.

    Just ordered her some Framed Fatty Slims for city cruising.

    I ride a '14 Framed Minnesota 2.0 and upgraded nearly everything on it. I'm going to swap over my old SRAM X5 rear mech, shifters, brake levers, and cassette to her bike to convert it to a 2x9 setup so she can swap the Fatty Slims out easy.

    I'll see if I can mount my Framed wheels with 4" Vee Missions on her bike. Pretty sure it will be no problem on the front. I'll report back with the results soon. The rims on the Gravity Knockout are not as wide and I doubt you could put a 4" tire on them.
    im building one of those bikes up as a loaner bike for when people want to come over and go for a ride with us....you WILL NOT be able to fit a 4" tire in the rear....trust me..

    you can see my build over on Rat Rod Bikes : Check out these $150 shipped Fatbike frames! | Rat Rod Bikes

  8. #158
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    New here and want to do the Gravity FB frame also. Did you put the Fatty Slim wheel sets in to try yet?

    Also, how do the diameters of the original Gravity wheel sets compare to the Fatty Slims?

    Finally, how tall is your GF (trying to size frame).

    Thanks!

  9. #159
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    Knockout
    For those of you with the knockout, how's it going? Mind starting a thread just for it. Does it use a 100mm square tapper bottom bracket? Good crankarm clearance? Any tire rub? Are the tires good, or complete junk?

    they seem like a good platform to throw a 4" tire up front, adjust the high speed limit screw in back, and just ride it.

  10. #160
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    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    Knockout
    For those of you with the knockout, how's it going? Mind starting a thread just for it. Does it use a 100mm square tapper bottom bracket? Good crankarm clearance? Any tire rub? Are the tires good, or complete junk?

    they seem like a good platform to throw a 4" tire up front, adjust the high speed limit screw in back, and just ride it.
    +1
    It seems we have some prospective buyers here and this looks like a fun platform to tinker with!

  11. #161
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    Quote Originally Posted by sowleman View Post
    Built up my wife's Mini-Sota with a few mods yesterday.

    Xt 1x10, 11/36 cassette, race face 30t, carbon slk bars. 29 lbs on shop scale. Fort Custer on Sunday for first ride! Can't wait!
    I'm only 5 ft with a 27.5 in inseam and I'm leaning heavily toward the Mini-Sota 2.0 2015. I really wanted the Minnesota 2.0, 15" but the standover would kill me being too high and yet the option of Fattie Slims on the Minesota 2.0 for a versatile ride was so inviting. Now that I see you have done some mods and made the weight go down I'm really excited to order the Mini-Sota. I'm not too saavy on the equipment upgrades listed on the forum but I'm learning. Next is to get my husband thinking about a Fat Bike after I get mine! I see some big fun in my future! Thanks for posting the info!

  12. #162
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    Quote Originally Posted by dariusf View Post
    Yes, mud is not an issue but ruining the single track is. Unfortunately too many people do not care and ruin sections of the trails. Then its up to local CAMBr volunteers to fix them Few more warmer sunny days ahead of the weekend. Hopefully the wide track with its crushed limestone will be good to go.
    Hope your trails have dried up nicely now?

    As far as shipping the bike, depending how far north you are, have you thought about getting the bike shipped to someone in US and go on a weekend road trip to pick it up? I'm by Chicago if that helps
    I had thought about shipping it to a US address/pick-up service, but I'm about 5 hours from the US border... as it turned out, I bought the Fatboy 24 and am very happy with it.

  13. #163
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    Quote Originally Posted by BeeZoo View Post
    I'm only 5 ft with a 27.5 in inseam and I'm leaning heavily toward the Mini-Sota 2.0 2015. I really wanted the Minnesota 2.0, 15" but the standover would kill me being too high and yet the option of Fattie Slims on the Minesota 2.0 for a versatile ride was so inviting. Now that I see you have done some mods and made the weight go down I'm really excited to order the Mini-Sota. I'm not too saavy on the equipment upgrades listed on the forum but I'm learning. Next is to get my husband thinking about a Fat Bike after I get mine! I see some big fun in my future! Thanks for posting the info!
    You go girl! You're going to love it. I'm similar height & proportion, and *so* happy I went with a kid-sized bike.

    Our snowshoe/multiuse trails are softening in the sunshine, people have been walking without snowshoes on the snowpack so it's full of frozen foot-holes, and where the sun gets through the trees the slush would slides out unpredictably from under my tires. I came off so many times, but having the clearance over the top tube made all the difference in the world.

  14. #164
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    Cool-blue Rhythm

    Quote Originally Posted by Melll View Post
    You go girl! You're going to love it. I'm similar height & proportion, and *so* happy I went with a kid-sized bike.

    Our snowshoe/multiuse trails are softening in the sunshine, people have been walking without snowshoes on the snowpack so it's full of frozen foot-holes, and where the sun gets through the trees the slush would slides out unpredictably from under my tires. I came off so many times, but having the clearance over the top tube made all the difference in the world.
    Thanks! I'm SO looking forward to the purchase. And now you've sealed it with me getting the correct standover height bike (as I really wanted the Minnesota 2.0 and the ability to use those Fattie Slims tires but it is what it is!). Happy Riding!

  15. #165
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    Quote Originally Posted by Melll View Post
    It's an extra $120 USD to ship to Canada, plus duty/taxes. That, added to the current terrible CAD/USD exchange rate means it would be about the same price to get the Mini-sota here as to order in the Fatboy 24 at the price my LBS was willing to offer me.
    I'm in Canada too. We bought 2 3.0s, had them shipped to a Washington shipping company. Drove down and picked them up.

    The only extra charge was GST as there is no PST on bikes. No brokerage fee as we did the import.

    Edit: never mind, I see you bought a the Specialized 24 fat bike.

  16. #166
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    Quote Originally Posted by CraigH View Post
    I'm in Canada too. We bought 2 3.0s, had them shipped to a Washington shipping company. Drove down and picked them up.

    The only extra charge was GST as there is no PST on bikes. No brokerage fee as we did the import.

    Edit: never mind, I see you bought a the Specialized 24 fat bike.
    I did buy the Specialized 24" fatbike, but this is really useful info on cross-border shopping; thank-you very much

  17. #167
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    Been doing the same thing with fat bike tire orders. Already picked up one set. Another set has been shipped so I'll be making another trip down there in the next week or so.

  18. #168
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    Quote Originally Posted by CraigH View Post
    Been doing the same thing with fat bike tire orders. Already picked up one set. Another set has been shipped so I'll be making another trip down there in the next week or so.
    Sweet! Even with the CAD-USD exchange rate what it is, it's a better deal?

  19. #169
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    I updated the thread over on RatRodBikes on the Gravity Knockout I'm building. Pics clearly show the chain rub issues and im going to email them next week in regards to the tire rub issue with the 3.5" Captiv8ors on 80mm wheels

  20. #170
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    On the knockout, how much does it weight? As much as a normal mountain bike, or is it in the 40lb category. I was thinking about getting one because the parts are a litle better than my dolomite, especially the rear axle and cartridge bottom bracket. I keep bending the dolo's axle. It seems I spend more time fixing it than riding it.

    Also, if you have one setup or measured it at any time, how wide is the stock rear tire on the 50mm rims, how wide is the chainstay clearance? Any other rear tires you try out?
    Last edited by watts888; 03-30-2015 at 09:38 AM.

  21. #171
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    Well Nashbar has discontinued the Big Ol Fat bike. No explanation. Wonder why? I heard they stop and start production somewhat randomly.

  22. #172
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    Fatbikes under 00 bucks-10525892_1093466717345737_7345882926426633551_n.jpg

    Here is our 8 year old granddaughter on her new Mini. I shortened the seat post and plan on redrilling and taping the cranksets to make them 150 mm length instead of the 170 they come as. She normally doesn't ride a full face helmet but she jumped off the snowmobile she was riding to try out her new fat bike. The mini is a quality product for the kids and I think a good value.

  23. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tennessee Jed View Post
    Well Nashbar has discontinued the Big Ol Fat bike. No explanation. Wonder why? I heard they stop and start production somewhat randomly.
    Lack of sales probably. Big OL steel frame with big ol rims that have no weight reduction holes cut in them. The thing is a tank.

    For the price they asked for that bike..$1100...a person would better off buying a Framed Minnesota for the same price.

  24. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by akexpress View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	10525892_1093466717345737_7345882926426633551_n.jpg 
Views:	432 
Size:	73.8 KB 
ID:	977120

    Here is our 8 year old granddaughter on her new Mini. I shortened the seat post and plan on redrilling and taping the cranksets to make them 150 mm length instead of the 170 they come as. She normally doesn't ride a full face helmet but she jumped off the snowmobile she was riding to try out her new fat bike. The mini is a quality product for the kids and I think a good value.
    How Fun for her! So nice to see the kids playing outside...the old fashioned way! ;-)

  25. #175
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    Quote Originally Posted by akexpress View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	10525892_1093466717345737_7345882926426633551_n.jpg 
Views:	432 
Size:	73.8 KB 
ID:	977120

    Here is our 8 year old granddaughter on her new Mini. I shortened the seat post and plan on redrilling and taping the cranksets to make them 150 mm length instead of the 170 they come as. She normally doesn't ride a full face helmet but she jumped off the snowmobile she was riding to try out her new fat bike. The mini is a quality product for the kids and I think a good value.
    Awesome! She'll get a good few years out of that bike! I don't understand either why the Mini-sota comes with 170mm cranks instead of something more kid-sized.


    Also... this thread has been moved/merged? May I ask why?

  26. #176
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    FYI, if anyone still browsing the thread and thinking of purchasing one...

    Mongoose Vinson All-Terrain Fat Bike - SportsAuthority.com


    25% off, + free shipping, and add the 10% email sign up promo code. $391.59!
    That's killer savings. It takes a while for the email system to generate a code and the sale is only 12 hours. So call customer service and tell them to get you a code to apply for the email sign up or call them after you get the code via email and get a price adjustment.

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    it can be built to be in the low 30's easily..

    BUT.... the chainstays WILL NOT CLEAR A 3.5" TIRE!

    no f'ing way w/o modification..

    another downside that I just realized today was that anything over a 160mm rear rotor will not clear the chainstay either.

    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    On the knockout, how much does it weight? As much as a normal mountain bike, or is it in the 40lb category. I was thinking about getting one because the parts are a litle better than my dolomite, especially the rear axle and cartridge bottom bracket. I keep bending the dolo's axle. It seems I spend more time fixing it than riding it.

    Also, if you have one setup or measured it at any time, how wide is the stock rear tire on the 50mm rims, how wide is the chainstay clearance? Any other rear tires you try out?

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  30. #180
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    old guy looking for answers/advice

    Hi. New to site. New to fat bikes. I've done lots of research and think the Framed Minnesota 3.0 is the bike I need. But!!!
    I'm 55 yo 5'8" 250+ lbs
    Timber Faller, Arborist, Operator, Laborer, Truck driver and overall Alaska Hand. I've had some knee injuries in the past few years and some friends reccomended bicycling to help strengthen my knees and legs.
    I will use the bike on gravel roads and frozen snow go trails. We have 6-8 months of winter per year. 4 months of hard winter. Temps to the mid-60F . I want to ride into the mid-30F range. Some hills are long, some steep some rough or all the above.
    I want a 22 tooth or smaller front chain ring with a 36 tooth rear or larger.
    The 2.0+3.0 come with 28 tooth front gear. Truvative brand.
    Does anyone have experience changing these out. Are these brand specific?
    Thank you very much
    This looks like a great site and the perfect thread.
    Glen.

  31. #181
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    Temperatures in the negative 60F? That's dang cold.

    I wouldn't worry about changing gears quite yet. The 28/36 might push your limits if you're going up really steep climbs, but much lower and you start getting into the "too slow to stay up" speed. I have a bike with a 22T in rear, and the lowest I've ever gotten in back was the 32T cog, and I had to stop because I couldn't keep momentum to maintain balance over any trail obstacles. I'll probably swap to a 26T, and it'll be more than enough gearing for me. If you have snow and steep hills at the same time, you might need a 24T.

    In regards to swapping, not too hard. You'll need to remove the crankset, but that's not too difficult, especially after watching a couple youtube videos. You probably want to stay within the same brand just to keep the spacing between chainrings and alignment of shift ramps the same. And the price between the different brands isn't that much if you get their base level ones. Normally in the $10-$15 range.

  32. #182
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cold Trigger Finger View Post
    Hi. New to site. New to fat bikes. I've done lots of research and think the Framed Minnesota 3.0 is the bike I need. But!!!
    I'm 55 yo 5'8" 250+ lbs
    Timber Faller, Arborist, Operator, Laborer, Truck driver and overall Alaska Hand. I've had some knee injuries in the past few years and some friends reccomended bicycling to help strengthen my knees and legs.
    I will use the bike on gravel roads and frozen snow go trails. We have 6-8 months of winter per year. 4 months of hard winter. Temps to the mid-60F . I want to ride into the mid-30F range. Some hills are long, some steep some rough or all the above.
    I want a 22 tooth or smaller front chain ring with a 36 tooth rear or larger.
    The 2.0+3.0 come with 28 tooth front gear. Truvative brand.
    Does anyone have experience changing these out. Are these brand specific?
    Thank you very much
    This looks like a great site and the perfect thread.
    Glen.
    My friend bought the 3.0 XWT....need wider tires for floating on top of loose snow. He also had a problem with gearing too high with the 28 tooth chain ring. He bought a 22 replacement from price point.com for about $4.00! He had to remove the crankarm to install it, so he had the bike shop make the switch for him. Good Luck.

    Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

  33. #183
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    Awesome! Thank you. The reason I am thinking to go 22 tooth front is that's what a lot of fat bikes I've researched have. My wife's mt bk has 28 tooth front small ring and I consider it too tall geared for what I'm wanting to accomplish. The F@R has 22 tooth front and 32 tooth rear. Going slow is fine with me. As long as I can stay up. I will spend lots of time on close woods snow go trails. I would get a Motobecane Boris, it has the gearing that I want. But the web site says they are sold out. The Fantom FB5 2.0 looks about ideal. But I have to add $150.00 to the price for shipping.

    When I'm at the LBS, I'll see what I can find. Lots of bike shops in Anchorage.

  34. #184
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    Ok. Great thank y'all! The 3.0 will take up to 4.8" iirc. Will probably upgrade to Bulldozers or Snowshoes asap and keep the oem tires for summer and spares.

  35. #185
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    Here's a question borne of ignorance, . With these modern bike derailleurs , can I shift and ride regularly thru the entire rear cassette?
    When I was in my teens I had a Reliegh Grand Prix 10 speed. I remember being told by the lbs that I was only suppose to shift half way down the cassette when on the small front ring.

  36. #186
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cold Trigger Finger View Post
    Here's a question borne of ignorance, . With these modern bike derailleurs , can I shift and ride regularly thru the entire rear cassette?
    When I was in my teens I had a Reliegh Grand Prix 10 speed. I remember being told by the lbs that I was only suppose to shift half way down the cassette when on the small front ring.
    That's not so much an ignorant question....I'm not the best person to answer this question with a technical answer, but it all boils down to chain angle...and for this is the reason I LOVE my 1x10 gearing setup.... On my Nephew's Specialized Hot Rock, which is a 3x7, there are some gearing combinations that make noise and the chain constantly what's to move and the derailleur has to hold it in place causing more friction on the chain and makes riding it a bit of a PITA..... 1x10, 1x11 or 2x10 is THE WAY TO GO if you don't want to go with an IGH (Integrated Geared Hub).

  37. #187
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    Short answer, it's fine to be in the same ring up front for all your gears in back.

    Long answer. You really don't want to cross-chain too much because it will cause some additional wear, the drivetrain will be noisy, and you might not have the precise shifting you should get, especially if you're small ring to small ring or large to large. The middle ring up front should line up with the middle ring in back (ie, good chainline), and this position should be able to shift through the whole range in back no problem. Mountain bike chains allow an aweful lot of sideways bend, unlike older road chains.
    Last edited by watts888; 08-05-2015 at 10:46 AM.

  38. #188
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    Ok thanks! The bikes I'm interested in have 29 or 210 gearing. The only use I have for a front chain ring larger than 36 tooth is as a bash ring :-)

  39. #189
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cold Trigger Finger View Post
    Ok thanks! The bikes I'm interested in have 29 or 210 gearing. The only use I have for a front chain ring larger than 36 tooth is as a bash ring :-)
    go with a 10 speed rear hub....LOTS of derailleur and shifter options for 10 speeds that are good stuff. I went with a Sram X9 trigger shifter (10 speed) and a Sram X7 Type 2.1 derailleur and my bike shifts like a dream....it shifts ALMOST as effortlessly as my Origin 8 Crawler with Nuvinci N360 hub. (which new Origin8 Crawlers are now in the sub 1000 price range)

  40. #190
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    The problem I have with the Crawler is the hub tyranny is reported to betoo high geared for what I'm after. I'm really after the low low 22 tooth front. Lots of hills in my future.


    I have now expanded.my list of bikes to the KHS 4 Season, 500+1000

    And the Norco Bigfoot 6.2 and the base model 6.3.

    There are LBS that have them in stock.

  41. #191
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cold Trigger Finger View Post
    The problem I have with the Crawler is the hub tyranny is reported to betoo high geared for what I'm after. I'm really after the low low 22 tooth front. Lots of hills in my future.


    I have now expanded.my list of bikes to the KHS 4 Season, 500+1000

    And the Norco Bigfoot 6.2 and the base model 6.3.

    There are LBS that have them in stock.

    The Crawler may not have the right gearing for your application.....If you've got alot of hills, look at overall weight too......

    The KHS 4 Season may be a nice bike when outfitted with high quality components; but in my opinion, it's drastically over priced for how it comes outfitted....

  42. #192
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cold Trigger Finger View Post
    The problem I have with the Crawler is the hub tyranny is reported to betoo high geared for what I'm after. I'm really after the low low 22 tooth front. Lots of hills in my future.


    I have now expanded.my list of bikes to the KHS 4 Season, 500+1000

    And the Norco Bigfoot 6.2 and the base model 6.3.

    There are LBS that have them in stock.
    Check out the bikesdirect.com Boris line. They are totally identical to the khs at half the price. When I bought mine, the stem and seatpost had the khs logo on it. Check out the specs.
    Dash Pt. State Park (Tacoma), Big Sky Montana during Snowboard Season, Duluth Mn, a couple of times of year incl. Xmas.

  43. #193
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    Ok. Thank.you. My choices at this point are the Minnesota 2.0+3.0
    The KHS 500+1000
    The Origin8 Maxi
    The Norco Bigfoot.
    That are instock in Anchorage and Wasilla.
    My problem with the 2.0+3.0 is I will need to change the small front ring before I start riding it.
    I like the look of the KHS + Bigfoot and those and the Maxi have good brazeons for rear racks.
    I do wonder how important the rear thru axle is. I plan on maxing out the hauling weight on a regular basis. ?????????
    And, I Do Not Want hydraulic brakes!!

  44. #194
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    I would have already ordered the Boris but they are out of stock.

  45. #195
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cold Trigger Finger View Post
    I would have already ordered the Boris but they are out of stock.
    Check back, they've had a whole new shipment and another coming in.
    Dash Pt. State Park (Tacoma), Big Sky Montana during Snowboard Season, Duluth Mn, a couple of times of year incl. Xmas.

  46. #196
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    I live too far from the cities to get in on the deals. If I wanted t spend 1k$ more then I would b in smooth sailing. But I'm frugal. The Minn 2.0 is prolly what I will get if the lbs has my size instock.

  47. #197
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    If not then the 3.0

  48. #198
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    I'm not familiar with the Origin8 Maxi.....have a link?

  49. #199
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    My mistake, it is the charge Cooker Maxi.
    But it appears to have 135 offset hubs. And not much for rack brazeons.

  50. #200
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    Well, in keeping with the under $1,000 theme of this thread.
    I got a Boris yesterday. Found it on Craigslist. Lightly used (125ish) miles with a bunch of extras for $804.00 . That's what I had in my wallet. Its a 15" so it fits my wife perfect and me good enough to ride until I get the bike I want in my size which I found is 17". But, that bike is lots more than 1k$.
    I'm VERY happy to find this bike, at this time. And saved some money

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