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  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BikeShopMonkey's Avatar
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    Fat frames with a regular Q bottom bracket?

    i loved my pug except for the fact that after a really long ride or consecutive days riding my knees would hurt.

    it was not a fit issue as i had the fit checked many times at my LBS and it matched all my other bikes. it was the fact that my feet were too wide set in relation to my body.

    i have seen diy fat bikes with a short version of a tandem drivetrain. where the left side of the crank drives another BB that has the front triple on the otherside and the rear derailleur is normal mounted.

    the second bb with the triple chainring is mounted higher up usually.



    this solved the "fat" tire spacing problem, but i have yet to see a manufactured version of this.
    so my afro now sticks out of my helmet.

  2. #2
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    Reputation: Lone Desert Walker's Avatar
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    Is that like the chubacabra? Check out this thread bro. Custom Fat Bike: need advice on what works

  3. #3
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
    Reputation: shiggy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BikeShopMonkey View Post
    i loved my pug except for the fact that after a really long ride or consecutive days riding my knees would hurt.

    it was not a fit issue as i had the fit checked many times at my LBS and it matched all my other bikes. it was the fact that my feet were too wide set in relation to my body.

    i have seen diy fat bikes with a short version of a tandem drivetrain. where the left side of the crank drives another BB that has the front triple on the otherside and the rear derailleur is normal mounted.

    the second bb with the triple chainring is mounted higher up usually.



    this solved the "fat" tire spacing problem, but i have yet to see a manufactured version of this.
    Still need a wide Q for the cranks to clear the chainstays unless you build a frame with a looonnggg rear end.
    mtbtires.com
    The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common

  4. #4
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    I know this isn't your goal, but I found shorter cranks work for solving some knee issues. I use 175mm on my regular bikes (narrow Q) and 160mm on my Pug. I can now ride back to back to back (etc.) centuries now where I could only ride 40 miles before my knees were gone.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    Still need a wide Q for the cranks to clear the chainstays unless you build a frame with a looonnggg rear end.
    darn, i knew there was a good reason why, i just didn't see that problem.

    thanks shiggy.
    so my afro now sticks out of my helmet.

  6. #6
    is buachail foighneach me
    Reputation: sean salach's Avatar
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    Try being conscious of keeping your lower legs vertical while pedalling your pugs. Lots of people seem to try to keep their knees close to the top tube, as you would on a normally spaced bb. This puts your knees at a wierd angle.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by JR Z View Post
    I know this isn't your goal, but I found shorter cranks work for solving some knee issues...
    Some single speeders prefer short cranks - you're in the range of your maximum strength for more of the time.

    (Easy to check - try lifting a heavy weight from a full squat compared to a half squat - it's easier from the half squat because your knees aren't so bent))
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
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