Is there any good information out there to help me with a Marge lite wheel build. More specifically the spoke calcs. I am building these wheels for a Necromancer and I haven't been able to find any reliable information on the subject. I have built wheels before but this is a new one and has me puzzled.
Hmm, I came to get some answers that are seemingly the first ones that someone would ask regarding fat tires. And I didn't really find them here! The questions are:
1. Why would someone want to use fat tires?
2. What are the advantages and disadvantages?
3. Do you need a special frame and fork to use them?
Hmm, I came to get some answers that are seemingly the first ones that someone would ask regarding fat tires. And I didn't really find them here! The questions are:
1. Why would someone want to use fat tires?
2. What are the advantages and disadvantages?
3. Do you need a special frame and fork to use them?
1. Easier to travel over 'sketchy' surfaces: snow, sand, mud etc. plus better grip.
2. Advantages: as above, Disadvantages: don't think anyone here will admit to any but as will all things the benefits come with drawbacks, generally greater weight and rolling resistance
3. Yes with wider forks and rear end, other than that the geometry is fairly standard
Tnx and yep, that's a pair of Rohloff cables, and this is one of the ways they are mounted when you have the regular hub without the external shifterbox.
And i used an electric cable bundler to keep them together.
I've wondered the same thing...haven't seen it answered.
I got dragged, kicking and screaming, to 44mm.
I really don't care for the endlessly changing landscape of head tube and BB standards. I mean, how much difference will you feel or see with a 41/36 angular contact bearing vs a 36/36?
That being said, 44 makes actual sense. You can run tapered, straight 1 1/8" in the same bike. It allows for use of larger diameter tubes in the build, which translates to stiffer front ends. It allows for lower stack heights, it's a standard that is widely accepted, I mean, let's face it, if Chris King makes a component for it, you know it's here to stay.....
This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!
I really don't care for the endlessly changing landscape of head tube and BB standards. I mean, how much difference will you feel or see with a 41/36 angular contact bearing vs a 36/36?
That being said, 44 makes actual sense. You can run tapered, straight 1 1/8" in the same bike. It allows for use of larger diameter tubes in the build, which translates to stiffer front ends. It allows for lower stack heights, it's a standard that is widely accepted, I mean, let's face it, if Chris King makes a component for it, you know it's here to stay.....
Ok, so I am going to build a fat bike. I am aware that there are a ton of specialty parts I am in need of. question is... Is there a list anywhere of said parts?
What I am building; A 9:zero:7 Med frame, 170mm bike
Just curious as to what exactly pertains to my needs. Any assistance is greatly appreciated, as this will be my first build, of any bike.
Hello, everyone.So I'm just getting back into riding after not riding for a few years now. I really like the look of these bikes and the ability to go anywhere but, I have no more experience with bike maintenance other then tire changes and chain replacement. The complete bikes are way out of my price range and I have no idea how to part together a bike. The other problem is I need one bike to do everything I want. The two most common types of riding I enjoy are heavy duty off road biking/ down hill stuff and bmx/ dirt jump stuff which causes me a problem. I'm not a pro or anything but I would like to be able to air the bike out but also handle pretty rough terrain. I'm not too worried about weight as all of my riding is for fun but, I dont know what bike could handle it. I'm thinking the bike I want right now( might be a completely stupid idea for a bike) would be a 26 dirt jump style bike with front/rear brakes, front suspension, fat tires and gears only on the rear. I wegh 280 and need a frame, rims, etc. that can handle my weight landing on it. I'm thinking this means steel. I'm not real firm on any of this and would have asked this in a thread but alas I cannot start a thread without first contributing to threads already started.
I've heard that fat bike rims usually don't come very round from the factory. Is this true? I can't remember where I've read this and couldn't find it with a quick Google search. I just built up my Rabbit Hole wheelset and they went together and trued up very easily. The rear has a slight hop that I'll be able to true out this weekend.
No matter how slow you ride, you're faster than anyone sitting online whining about slow riders.
I've heard that fat bike rims usually don't come very round from the factory. Is this true? I can't remember where I've read this and couldn't find it with a quick Google search. I just built up my Rabbit Hole wheelset and they went together and trued up very easily. The rear has a slight hop that I'll be able to true out this weekend.
I built my own Moonlander wheels. The rims gave me zero problems, the wheels went together without any hassle. Even the offset wheel was easy to dish, just a bit challenging to attach to the truing stand.
I have shaved pounds off this bike since I got it. Original tires were 4lb 15oz (thats almost 5 lb!!!!) new tires are 3lb 5oz. swapped out stem, bars, seatpost, saddle, pedals, and the rim liners which were 80mm wide rubber strips that weighed about 500grams together!!! Right now I am at about 39lb. I think I can get alot more weight off by switching to a mwod crankset. I love the new Moonlander fork, it changed the geometry so the sterring is way more "normal" like a pug. The original fork was longer with more rake so the new fork tames down the headtube and seat tube angles by lowering the front end a little. Long wheelbase increases float by evenly distributing the weight over the wheels so the back does not dig in. Rides smooth and nice.
The 2 speed hub is fun. The Moonlander fork I got came with a disk tab that was welded on at a bad angle so I'll have to warranty that out before I can install my bb7 on the front.
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Originally Posted by rock&road
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but as will all things the benefits come with drawbacks, generally greater weight and rolling resistance
