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Thread: Fat Bike FAQ's

  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ock View Post
    Hello Everyone! My name is Ock and I am a very heavy rider. I am 5'11", and 290lbs . In the past I rode dual suspension Cannondales before the heavy weight. My last bike was a Kona Hoss which was made for heavy riders. When I spotted FatBikes online I loved them instantly. i am having one custom made for me. Hope you can help me choose the right wheels and tires for my weight and application.
    First, I really want wheels that are silver / stainless steel color / chrome look. Any recommendations for this?
    Second, I love the drilled look but the concern is my weight. Would undrilled be better for my weight?
    Third, which wheels would work best for a heavy rider. I am looking at Daryls and LArge Marge.
    Lastly, tires. The bike will be used on rocky dirt trails. Lots of sharp rocks and sharp vegetation. Im thinking Nate because of tread, and use goo. Origin8 Devastator is a choice due to its kevlar and its beefier.
    SO GUYS let me know what you think... The best wheels and tires for my specs and application.
    If you have any commments on componants for heavy riders on a fat bike please share.
    Thanks So Much! I will share whats created!
    OCK

    Hi Ock and Welcome

    I'm 265lbs so not too far south of you.

    If you are going to use the bike for rocky dirt trails I would recommend UNDRILLED Large Marges. They are totally bombproof.

    If you want the silver look, just have the black anodizing stripped before you have the wheels built.

    I have no experience of the Devist8er, but Nate is a very impressive tyre in both volume and grip

    Cheers,
    Dr FG
    A Fatback'd Lefty for who life IS a Beach

  2. #102
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    Left Turn

    Folks,

    I built a Jabberwockey with a fat front and I noticed that it likes to turn left. If I take my hands off of the bars... it will just roll to the left..

    No clue.. I have been around bikes forever, but this is the first Fat anything... is this normal for the Larry?

    Steve
    (I will post image later)
    My bike is heavier than yours - it does not have Carbon or Titanium parts - I love it!

  3. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by Weinerts View Post
    ...I built a Jabberwockey with a fat front and I noticed that it likes to turn left....
    It's a feature, not a bug.

    The large width low pressure tyres have a lot of grip and this means they can put significant turning torque into the steering. You'll quickly get used to it. You'll also find it varies depending on tyre pressure and camber of the track.

    The turning effect can be reduced if you have control over your frame geometry - ie custom frame etc. I have found a steeper head angle helps minimise this.
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
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  4. #104
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    Thanks

    When I read your reply I heard Donkey telling Puss - "phh- you will learn to control that"

    It only seems to do it riding around the neighborhood, on the trail it seems to great once over about 3 miles an hour.

    I am riding a really small frame, but it has the top tube length that I like.
    I am going to the bike swap meet this weekend (San Diego Velodrome April 22) and will be looking for some alt bars for more control and weight shift possibilities.
    My bike is heavier than yours - it does not have Carbon or Titanium parts - I love it!

  5. #105
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    Chainline/Crank issue

    Hi, I'm Andi from Germany, right in the middle of building a Pugs (as soon as the damn frame arrives .. 2 months waiting now. Parts are getting dusty meanwhile ..) and having some hiccups before ordering one of the last parts - the bottom bracket.

    It gets equipped with a Rohloff, White Ind. ENO crank and a Phil Wood BB but which one? Centered? Offset? With SS cups? Normally it wouldn't be that problem but the combination of Rohloffs wider chainline and the fixed position of the White Industries chainring makes it tricky. So it looks that the BB has to correct everything ..

    My thoughts so far:
    Rohloff has a chainline of 54 mm and is laced 17.5 mm offset that gives it a chainline of 71.5 mm. The White Ind. crank has a chainline of 47.5 mm on a 113 mm spindle that would make it a 63.5 mm on Phil's 145 mm spindle. Now I would say let's take the 5 mm offset BB version to move closer to the ideal chainline. Then there would only be a difference of 3 mm left that I hope to compensate by moving the cups. But my fear is: would the non drive crank arm come too close and interfere with the chainstay as it is moved 8 mm inwards?

    Or am I totally wrong and the Phil spindle is 145 mm + 5 mm on the right (and not simply shifted as I think it is) which would make it a 150 mm effectively?

    I've written to PW - couldn't tell me anything (at least the person replying). Have written to Surly - answer pending (or mail gone lost?). Have posted on several pages - no answer until now. The only response I got from VikB, offering me to do some measurings on his equipment that could help.

    But maybe there's somebody riding this exact combination of components and can tell me what's the solution? That would be awesome.

    cheers, Andi



    p.s. Wasn't allowed to use the search function as I had no post before ... Anyway, question's still up.
    Last edited by younox; 05-16-2012 at 08:33 AM.

  6. #106
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    There have been posters on here with pug builds with your hub and PW BB so they should be along to answer your questions
    plan it...build it....ride it...love it....
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  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by younox View Post
    Hi, I'm Andi from Germany, right in the middle of building a Pugs (as soon as the damn frame arrives .. 2 months waiting now. Parts are getting dusty meanwhile ..) and having some hiccups before ordering one of the last parts - the bottom bracket.

    It gets equipped with a Rohloff, White Ind. ENO crank and a Phil Wood BB but which one? Centered? Offset? With SS cups? Normally it wouldn't be that problem but the combination of Rohloffs wider chainline and the fixed position of the White Industries chainring makes it tricky. So it looks that the BB has to correct everything ..

    My thoughts so far:
    Rohloff has a chainline of 54 mm and is laced 17.5 mm offset that gives it a chainline of 71.5 mm. The White Ind. crank has a chainline of 47.5 mm on a 113 mm spindle that would make it a 63.5 mm on Phil's 145 mm spindle. Now I would say let's take the 5 mm offset BB version to move closer to the ideal chainline. Then there would only be a difference of 3 mm left that I hope to compensate by moving the cups. But my fear is: would the non drive crank arm come too close and interfere with the chainstay as it is moved 8 mm inwards?

    Or am I totally wrong and the Phil spindle is 145 mm + 5 mm on the right (and not simply shifted as I think it is) which would make it a 150 mm effectively?
    I was going to do this build and ended up with a moonlander, which was a whole different set of problems. You want the 145mm +5 Phil BB. Because my build didn't have one, I have one of these BB's I'm not using - send me a PM and i'd be happy to work out a deal.

  8. #108
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    i have a question, what do y'all do when you have flats? normally i carry at least 1 spare tube with me when i ride (2 for road bikes and 1 for mtb) but how big are these tubes?
    can you carry one easy in a camelbak?
    what size is the standard tube? will i be able to get one easily from my LBS? (in Australia)
    cheers
    Steve

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveJfromtheSwitch View Post
    i have a question, what do y'all do when you have flats? normally i carry at least 1 spare tube with me when i ride (2 for road bikes and 1 for mtb) but how big are these tubes?
    can you carry one easy in a camelbak?
    what size is the standard tube? will i be able to get one easily from my LBS? (in Australia)
    cheers
    Steve
    I'm sure a fat bike tube would fit in your Camelbak.. I haven't had a flat yet on my Moonie (touch wood) but I carry a tube for a 29er and will blow it up big enough to get me out of trouble.. and then plan to fix the original tube once I'm back home.

    DJ

  10. #110
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    ah cool thanks DJ, so that's pretty much a 29" x whatever the biggest they sell? is that 2.5" maybe?

    schwalbe only do a 2.35" tube from what i can see

  11. #111
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    Great info!

  12. #112
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    Fatbikes - the major available models

    Well, I just spent an hour typing a response and it logged me out without saving text, so I'll try to be briefer this time. I'm a long-time lurker so it won't let me start a new thread this soon after registering, but I think a breakdown of the currently-available fatbike models would be a very helpful sticky. Here's what I found in my research so far. Correct me if I'm wrong - lots of this is from memory and I'm trying to remember everything I wrote.

    SURLY LINE - all steel, all with sliding rear dropouts so they can be run single speed or IGH
    Pugsley - $1650, all steel, offset wheels on 135mm hubs. 65mm rims and 3.7" tires standard.
    Necromancer, a.k.a. Black Ops, a.k.a. Neck Romancer - $1850 for a pugs with 82mm rims and 3.7" tires
    Moonlander - $2350 for a pugs that fits 4.7" tires on 100mm rims. Wheels on this one are offset as well. The rims are drilled out to reduce weight.
    Krampus - unique-sized steel fatbike with 29" wheels and 3" wide tires on 50mm rims. Larger diameter but narrower tires than other fatbikes. 1x9 drivetrain. Debuts this winter for $1950 complete. This "29+" size may eventually become its own fatbike subgenre if it catches on.

    SALSA LINE
    3 aluminum bikes and a titanium bike. For 2013 they have sliding rear dropouts, 80mm rims, 3.7" tires that are knobbier than most other stock fatbike tires so they're better in the dirt but offer more rolling resistance. Symmetrical rear wheels, unlike the Surly line. For 2013 at least they will fit 4.7" tires on fatter rims (100mm) with drivetrain modifications.
    Mukluk Ti - $4200
    Beargrease - aluminum frame and fork, superlight racing fatbike. $3000
    Mukluk 2 - $2450, aluminum frame with steel fork, midrange
    Mukluk 3 - $1750, aluminum frame with steel fork, entry level

    Speedway Cycles FATBACK - designed in Anchorage, all of these bikes have symmetrical wheels and come with drilled-out rims to reduce weight. Speedway says that they came out with the symmetrical rear wheel design that Salsa now uses. Bikes can be specced new with either 70mm or 90mm rims. 90mm rims with 4.7 tires will fit but require drivetrain mods.

    Fatback Starts at $2300 complete when specced with the aluminum frame and fork. Starting winter 11/12, these alum frames are made in the U.S. - unlike any other readily available fatbike.
    Starting at $2650, Fatbacks can be had with a steel frame and fork.
    Starting $3450, you can have a Fatback complete build with a US-made titanium frame and fork.
    Fatbacks are adding a sliding rear dropout option for 2012/2013, but it costs about $150 more.


    9Zero7 - also designed in Anchorage, but made in Asia (unlike Fatback). Can be had with either symmetrical or asymmetrical rear wheels, aluminum or titanium, and with or without sliding rear dropouts. Their current models can fit 100mm rims and 4.7" tires, but come stock with 80mm and 3.7s.
    Complete 9zero7 starts at $2000 with aluminum frame/fork.
    Complete titanium 9zero7 starts at $3800.
    Last edited by Willum; 09-02-2012 at 02:51 PM. Reason: more typos

  13. #113
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    Adding to Willum's effort:

    FAT SAND BIKE - not for racing but longer wheelbase lifestyle fat bikes, alloy frames, 130 offset, non-cut wheels, significantly expanded 2012/13 range including kids fat sand bikes, and a new ultra cheap entry to being fat with <$600 RRP steel 3 speed fat bike, plus electric fat bike frame with integrated rear rack, and their own new design 4.8" tyre that fits the original 100mm rim and frame.

    I got mine (Fat Sand Bike Terrain Destroyer 17") when son was born 7 months ago, only ridden it once on the beach, but it's a game changer for leisure riding in my area (10min fat bike ride from beach) and it's a bike I'll keep for its life. I've been thinking of riding it to work for a challenge as the days are getting longer for more time for the longer trip, while it's still cool enough morning temp to not melt into the office.

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by Willum View Post
    Here's what I found in my research so far. Correct me if I'm wrong - lots of this is from memory and I'm trying to remember everything I wrote.
    Nice list.

    Worth noting the differences in geometry. Some fatbikes are focused towards stable flotation, and some towards fat trail fun. Thats not to say a floatation orientated fatbike will kill you in the face with fire, if you take it on the trail. Just that there is difference in geometry worth noting.

    There are also quite a few other players.

    Carver
    Tommisea
    Sandman
    Twenty2 cycles
    On-one (soon....)
    Schlik cycles
    616fab

    ...and probably a few more.
    A big boy did it, and ran away.
    62*28'

  15. #115
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    Thanks - I had a feeling that I would be missing some $4000 boutique rigs, but Tommisea/Fat Sand Bike looks to be a major option with a wide range of models (many of which are pretty affordable). They should be part of any sticky that gets created as well. Love their use of IGHs!

  16. #116
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    Hey fellas-

    Can't start a new post so I figured here may be the best spot to get me question answered...

    I bought a Necro Pugs this summer and just can't get used to the thumb shifters that come stock on it. They work fine, but I want to go to the usual trigger shifters like on my other mountain bikes.

    I'm fairly new to replacing my own parts, so do I need anything besides the shifter itself? I assume it needs to be a 10 speed shifter.

    Any advice is much appreciated- especially if you have done this to your Necro.

    Cheers!

  17. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raul34 View Post
    Hey fellas-

    Can't start a new post so I figured here may be the best spot to get me question answered...

    I bought a Necro Pugs this summer and just can't get used to the thumb shifters that come stock on it. They work fine, but I want to go to the usual trigger shifters like on my other mountain bikes.

    I'm fairly new to replacing my own parts, so do I need anything besides the shifter itself? I assume it needs to be a 10 speed shifter.

    Any advice is much appreciated- especially if you have done this to your Necro.

    Cheers!
    Actually, you have a 9-speed cassette.
    I have some new DEORE SL-M590 3 X 9 SHIFTERS for sale which came off my white Pugsley.
    They would match your Deore M591SGS derailleur perfectly.
    $45 ...... let me know if interested.
    DEORE SL-M590 3 X 9 SHIFTERS NEW BIKE TAKE OFFS Shimano | eBay

  18. #118
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    Right on. So they would work even though it's a 2x9?

  19. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raul34 View Post
    Right on. So they would work even though it's a 2x9?
    Yes. You just turn the high limit screw in (on the front derailleur).
    Last edited by client_9; 09-05-2012 at 09:27 AM.

  20. #120
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    Thanks

  21. #121
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    Hi,
    Im Buck, I ride a Necro Pugs in southern Maryland. working on pics now

  22. #122
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    Can I use XT rear hub ( FH-M785) in Enabler fork?

    Can I use a standard XT rear hub ( FH-M785) from my parts bin in a Salsa Enabler fork?

    Do I need a FRONT caliper adaptor and a standard front disc brake?

    OR
    Do I need to buy a purpose built 135mm Front Hub.

  23. #123
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    A standard rear hub will do. Brake adaptor is front type.

    This is smart thinkin on behalf of Salsa: you can use regular brake sets without additional adapters, and the hub choice is virtually unlimited.

  24. #124
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    Thanks Saul, great news.....one step closer.

  25. #125
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    9zero7 170mm. 1-1/8 or 44mm Headtube?

    Hi all, should I go with the 1-1/8 or the 44mm Headtube? Pro's / Con's !!!
    Thanks

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