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Thread: Fat Bike FAQ's

  1. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by BansheeRune View Post
    Don't know if this will help, but I use a Topeak Mtn Morph on 2.4 & 2.7.
    I realize they are nothing like Larry's or Nate's tho' you are going low pressure!


    Hope this helps!
    THANKS! Just ordered one.

  2. #77
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    No worries, I hope it serves you well. I have had mine several years now and still going strong.
    I run 2.7 at 18-28 psi. Its nice to be a beanpole.

    Btw how's the fatbike ride?

  3. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by BansheeRune View Post
    No worries, I hope it serves you well. I have had mine several years now and still going strong.
    I run 2.7 at 18-28 psi. Its nice to be a beanpole.

    Btw how's the fatbike ride?
    It's a stock Pugsley and it's the best thing ever! I've been riding a 22 lb Ted Wojcik hard tail for 16 years and I am faster and climb just as well on the Pugsley. Can't say enough good things about it. I'd say once you go FAT, you'll never go back.

  4. #79
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    Sweet. I am torn between a Mukluk & a Pug. The other thing is sorting out the financial aspect.
    Lbs (Gear Exchane) aka the Soul Shop has both.
    Nothing like sorting it out!

    Tahnks

  5. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by BansheeRune View Post
    Sweet. I am torn between a Mukluk & a Pug. The other thing is sorting out the financial aspect.
    Lbs (Gear Exchane) aka the Soul Shop has both.
    Nothing like sorting it out!

    Tahnks
    From what I've read, most feel the Pug handles more like a mtb, I agree and I think it looks better too. As they say about the money, "you're already a thousand over budget, so what's the big deal."

  6. #81
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    So much for hitting the budget!
    I am considering micro drive single speed. I need to test ride on single track as well as urban.
    I will go to the snow insurance agency and buy a policy before I test ride. Er uh wash my vehicle.
    Only then will we get some snow!

  7. #82
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    Hi all, read a lot around here but this is first post, and can't post a new thread, so may be asking a few silly question.
    Is there a horizontal dropout 170 fat bike frame out there?
    I just had a brainwave if there was, I could symmetric lace a 100mm rim to a centred (custom spacers) 135 alfine 8 IGH centering.
    Would this give equal spoke tension, the only potential benefit? (ignoring 29er use potential)
    If there's benefit in it, and no frame like that, I'm thinking a 9zero7 170 aluminium frame with QR dropouts cut and shut with custom horiztonal dropouts.
    My goal is a relatively simple/resilient fat bike on the outside, obstacle protection of a single speed, and road/trail speed range benefit of an internal geared hub.
    I'm also unsure about the right frame size (S) that matches my other bikes in measurements, or the bar pushing walking bike in deep sand testicle room of the XS standover height with extra 1.3" (135mm).

  8. #83
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    For a 170mm frame you'd need to replace the Alfine axle

    What's wrong with the 135mm frame?

  9. #84
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    For a 170mm + Alfine setup - which hasn't been done yet - you'd also need some additional mechanical solution for the chain line, which is a very skinny 47mm with cog flipped outward.

    Hey so how does this thread get managed anyway? I'm guilty of this too, but the relevance of FAQ-quality questions has really gone downhill over the length of it.
    Latitude: 44.93 N

  10. #85
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    cheap entry IGH options available now

    Thanks, axle length obviously critical for the IGH to fit, doh!
    170 only reason/benefit seems to be idealistic symmetry for spoke life beating wheels in all terrain, and 29er swaps.
    For horizontal dropout and IGH, forgetting 29ers, I've since looked wider than 9zero7 and Fatback to find the heavier 26x4" budget entry level fat sand bikes more from beach cruiser approach than MTB, with horizontal dropouts, IGH.

    Origin8 has a Nuvinci hub offering (not my pref), related brand Sun Spider with beach cruiser styling Sturmey Archer kickback coaster brake single speed rear hub both same 4" Deton8er tyres. My pick for the apparent longer wheelbase and Nexus/Alfine options is the Fat Sand Bikes by TommiSea.
    Sun Spider seems best bang for buck cheap entry, $700 to try a fat bike, and a couple of ratios. I've come off a single speed commuter that I wanted that hub in, before the bike was decommissioned, so am a fan all over.
    Fat Sand Bikes have fixed and single speed versions with Fixi/Cruiser levels of budget entry appointments (or lack of) front brakes optional. They do a $3k Titanium Alfine 11 version too.
    Heavier and lower spec than the Surly/Salsa alternative front runners like Fatback and 9zero7.

    This is all in other threads but hopefully a digest in this reply is a helpful summary to cheap entry "IGH now off the shelf" folks. Anyone know other options?

  11. #86
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    This may be a silly question however I can't find the answer... Is it possible to use a standard mountain bike frame to build a fat tire bike? If not then what do I need to do to build this awesome creation... I'm new to the fat bike community. The plan is for a fully rigid fat bike. Thanks!

  12. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by Twitchbone View Post
    ... Is it possible to use a standard mountain bike frame to build a fat tire bike?...
    No. There is not enough width or height in a standard frame for a tyre that may be between 88mmm - 110mmm.

    You could go half-fat though. This is done by putting a fat front fork and fat wheel on a standard bike. This is better done to a 29er frame because it does not change the geometry so much (but that depends on your frame).

    There's been a lot of half-fat builds on this forum, so a search may give you a few different ideas.
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
    Latitude: 57║36' Highlands, Scotland

  13. #88
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    Thanks velobike... I figured it had to be a bigger frame just wasn't sure...

  14. #89
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    What gearing do you run on a single speed fat bike and what kind of terrain do you use it on? I want a SS fat bike but need info on gearing.

    richardh

  15. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by rich-hud View Post
    What gearing do you run on a single speed fat bike and what kind of terrain do you use it on? I want a SS fat bike but need info on gearing.

    richardh
    I asked that very question here earlier this week
    If you need me I'll be at the bar

  16. #91
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    Seeing as this is the FAQ, I'll put my opinion in here as well.

    If you are already running a SS29er and will be riding the same tracks, you can use the same gearing if you are on the Larry or Endo. If you put Nates on, then you'll feel the extra grip in the form of resistance so a lower gear may be necessary, but you'll love them on soft stuff. I can't speak for the HDs because I haven't got any yet.

    If you put Floyds on, then you can raise your gearing IMO almost to where you'd have it on a SS cyclocross bike - with the same limitations on grip as the cx bike - but with more comfort and better ability to steamroller over rocks. (Floyds + fatbike = replacement for what I use my cx bike for).

    If you drop your tyre pressures below norm then again lower ratios help.

    However, the big advantage of fat tyres is the ability to go into places you couldn't ride with your normal bikes. That equals lower gearing, and often radically lower. Once you're riding like that, the next step is the BFLs for more flotation/steamroller effect and venturing into even odder places, and you are looking at crawler type ratios.

    When you have very low gearing then you have a problem with the rest of your riding, eg when you're not on the soft stuff your legs will be spinning like mad. Most of us can maintain a decent hardpack speed on 32/18, but it's difficult on 22/22, and yes, you'll want that gear if you exploit your fatty properly.

    Like many dedicated SSers I have found that the simplest thing is to fit a hub gear for a bike that is going to be used for bog bashing.

    There are options though.

    I would still prefer to be riding a SS, one less cable, and less to go wrong, so at the moment I'm trying to make a dinglespeed.

    Basically 2 sets of SS ratios, no gear change mechanism (other than a latex glove ), and when a different ratio is needed, drop the wheel and manually switch them over.

    I will have a 32/22 ratio, and a 22/32 ratio which means no chain length differences. The 22/32 is for crawler stuff and won't see much use mileage wise, but when there's bog, I'll love it. For those new to the concept, you only use the cogs directly in line with each other, you don't be run from the 32 front to the 32 rear for example - that would need a different chain length. It may sound like a lot of hassle, but it preserves the simplicity and reliability of a single speed transmission. I'll post mine up when it's done - I'm first trying to bodge a way to use a proper 32 tooth chainring on the rear rather than the flimsy derailleur types.

    Something like a SRAM Torpedo hub would be an ideal way to do this so the lower ratio could be optionally be ridden fixed for greater control (not possible at the moment because no brake mounts and narrow OLD).

    The ultimate is probably a tringlespeed, ie 3 on the front, 3 on the rear 38/32/22 going to 16/22/32.
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
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  17. #92
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    Thanks for the info.
    richardh

  18. #93
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    Here's another newb Q:

    What is the max tire pressure for the BFL?

    Has anyone been trying to get a real high average speed on the Moonlander (or other fat bike) on flat tarmac/terrain? Is an average speed of say 17/18 mph (28km/u) possible on a 19 mile (30 km) flat Tarmac loop for a trained cyclist (medium performer not hotshot)
    Am wondering what is possible with this machine

    Thanks,

    Erik.

  19. #94
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    I'd think no problem for you Erik. I managed ~27kph cruise before pedestrian obstacles for a short 5km trip home from beach yesterday on my first test ride of my Fat Sand Bike yesterday. Successful ride along the beach with low pressure, still like uphill work if no choice, the erroneous rear Presta valve meant I could only get back to max 40psi in front tyre of the 4" Kenda from local fuel station. Lots of hand./foot pumping to go from near flat for the sand, to a couple hundred pumps later 10psi in the rear.

    re: Gearing, it has a Nexus8 hub, great all round, has

  20. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by deepfraught View Post
    I'd think no problem for you Erik. I managed ~27kph cruise before pedestrian obstacles for a short 5km trip home from beach yesterday on my first test ride of my Fat Sand Bike yesterday. Successful ride along the beach with low pressure, still like uphill work if no choice, the erroneous rear Presta valve meant I could only get back to max 40psi in front tyre of the 4" Kenda from local fuel station. Lots of hand./foot pumping to go from near flat for the sand, to a couple hundred pumps later 10psi in the rear.

    re: Gearing, it has a Nexus8 hub, great all round, has
    Thanks!!

    Anyone know if Big Fat Larry's are also capable of handling 40psi? Guess inflating the tires to this amount of pressure by hand is a workout all of it's own

    Others who are willing to share experiences with maximum and/or average speeds on their fat bikes on flat tarmac or paved roads??

  21. #96
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    I read some research on weight and tri/track cycle times to be very low percentage differences when hills and braking/accelerations were a minimum. <4% I recall... but point is it's not major.
    So if you can sustain 35kph+ on that flat tarmac 30km circuit with your lightest road race bike, take off 10% and you're still above the 28kph target average. You'll be in the ball park in any case. On a ride the greater time isn't the 1 or 2kph avg. speed difference from conditions or fitness, but all the ordinary logistical things you do either side of it. Good or bad routine can make more difference.

    About pressure, I found anything above 20psi seems to have a similar contact patch and not change radically until it's halved once and twice again. Chronic masturbation disorder would do well as training for in field inflating a fat bike to be able to avoid passing out from fatigue before reaching the climax road tyre pressure =D
    I'll be looking for a full size floor pump with folding handle/feet. The MTB single foot and handle folder has been large for road/MTB so far, pumping against ground, with hose, but just not enough volume in fat bike world. Takes about 200 pumps on the full size to get from near flat for sand to 40psi. 0-20psi the most, and 20-40psi not as much it seems.

  22. #97
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    Craft, I pump larry's up to 3 bar for road only trips, is on a 47 mm rim, until 2 bar you notice a big difference in rolling resistance, between 2 and 3 bar the difference is rather small.
    30 km/h on flat works but you take much more wind and accelerating costs more energy!
    Me hartrate is 10 beats higher whithout to much wind!

  23. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nothing's impossible View Post
    Craft, I pump larry's up to 3 bar for road only trips, is on a 47 mm rim, until 2 bar you notice a big difference in rolling resistance, between 2 and 3 bar the difference is rather small.
    30 km/h on flat works but you take much more wind and accelerating costs more energy!
    Me hartrate is 10 beats higher whithout to much wind!
    Thanks Much

    Since I can't pm you (post count is not enough here's my reply in Dutch

    Hallo N I,

    Bedankt voor je reply op het MTBR forum!!

    Lijkt me best leuk om op een Fatbike straks met 3 bar in de banden te kijken hoe het gaat met (gemiddelde) snelheid.

    Gisteren is de fatbike besteld en nu 4 wkn wachten....het wordt een Surly Moonlander.

    Ik heb sinds ik ge´nteresseerd ben geraakt in een fatbike al enkele filmpjes van je gezien op Youtube en moet zeggen Respect met hoofdletter R. Prachtig hoe je met jouw Sandman de wielersport bedrijft! Een mooie inspiratie voor de hartpatiŰnt die ik ben ;-)

    Bedankt!

    Erik.

  24. #99
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    Bedankt, trouwens, ik spreek over een larry op een 47 mm velg, een big fat larry op een 80 mm heeft mogelijk helemaal geen 3 bar nodig!

  25. #100
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    Best Fat Bike Wheels For Heavy Riders...?

    Hello Everyone! My name is Ock and I am a very heavy rider. I am 5'11", and 290lbs . In the past I rode dual suspension Cannondales before the heavy weight. My last bike was a Kona Hoss which was made for heavy riders. When I spotted FatBikes online I loved them instantly. i am having one custom made for me. Hope you can help me choose the right wheels and tires for my weight and application.
    First, I really want wheels that are silver / stainless steel color / chrome look. Any recommendations for this?
    Second, I love the drilled look but the concern is my weight. Would undrilled be better for my weight?
    Third, which wheels would work best for a heavy rider. I am looking at Daryls and LArge Marge.
    Lastly, tires. The bike will be used on rocky dirt trails. Lots of sharp rocks and sharp vegetation. Im thinking Nate because of tread, and use goo. Origin8 Devastator is a choice due to its kevlar and its beefier.
    SO GUYS let me know what you think... The best wheels and tires for my specs and application.
    If you have any commments on componants for heavy riders on a fat bike please share.
    Thanks So Much! I will share whats created!
    OCK

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